36 Hours in Basel

A travel article without a map is like going to a library without your glasses. I continue to be confounded by this much too frequent practice of editors!

A few corrections: Airbnb's in town charge the daily tourist tax and must therefore also issue the Basel Card for free public transport and half price at museums.  Fasnacht this year is from March 2nd to 4th, not 1st to 4th (or the 72 hour duration would be impossible). It's "Morgestraich", with an a.

Thanks for this actually nice article. But Roger Federer is not a Baseler just because he was born in Basel. He grew up in Birsfelden and Münchentein (Baselland), pays no taxes in Basel, but in a tax haven in Switzerland. A Basel resident lives in Basel, pays taxes in Basel!

Don’t forget amazing shopping on Spalenvorstadt, including the fantastic fashion boutique Dandy Delirium!

If the shops are all closed on Sundays, are the restaurants and museums open there, and in Zurich? Going next winter for the Christmas markets.

I went there last year with my wife and 9 month old daughter not knowing what to expect. We spent our vacation doing a train loop from Frankfurt to Basel to Strasbourg and back. Basel was simply on the way but wow did we love it. As others have mentioned the zoo was fantastic with our daughter but what we really loved was the walkability and authenticity of the city. The Swiss simply have it so much better than us. Such a beautiful city.

What? No Zoo? No toy museum? Surely you didn't take the kids.

Believe me, Basel has enough to offer but there is something else which makes Basel so attractive and special: It is exactly in the middle of Western Europe. Go ahead, look at it in the map. It is practically placed between France, Germany and in Switzerland. Just besides the Black Forest (Schwarzwald) in Germany, with Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, Schwarzwälder Schinken and its cuckoo clocks; and the Upper Rhine (Haut-Rhin, Alsace) in France, with many places to visit like the wonderful Kaysersberg, French cuisine and great wine. On the other hand, you are in around one hour by car, bus or train in Zürich, Bern, Lucerne or the swiss Alps with its picturesque valley chalets, green woods and snowy mountains. The main train station of Basel is less than 15 minutes bus or tram drive from anywhere in the city, and the airport is just 16 minutes bus drive from the main train station. Come on, which city can beat that? In one hour or less, you can fly to the main cities of Western Europe like Milan, Rome, Venice, Barcelona, Paris, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Munich, Vienna or London. Berlin in 90 minutes and Madrid or Copenhagen in a two hours flight. Basel is a great city or maybe just a “world class town” for a New-Yorker if you like, but it has Europe on its doorstep. Enjoy!

I have just returned from Basel last Sunday. Stayed as always at the hotel "Der Teufelhof". For me one of the best hotel and restaurant in Basel with a unique atmosphere and exceptional host (Raphael Wyniger). Try the Teufelhof Gin “Rheinbrand”! "Der Teufelhof" is the essence of Basel's lifestyle.

Love this. The Villa Wenkenhof park is open every day though. Source: I live right across the street.

What a lovely article, and helpful additions in the reader's comments. From a culinary perspective, another place not to miss is Jakob's Basler Leckerly, the country's oldest producer of Basel's historic gingerbread biscuit. The bakery dates back to - believe it or not - the year 1753, and I remember very well how passionately the owner gave us many anecdotes and insights around the rich history and tradition of his small company. Some of the shops and producers mentioned in the text are more mainstream and mass market, but small independent shops like the charming Jakob's really make the difference to us anytime we travel overseas. It's just lovely.

That picture brings back fond memories. The Kuster brothers, Andreas Kuster and Matthias gave me a personal tour of all the places you mention. The family has lived there for many generations. The only thing missing from the article is the mention of Jakob's Basler Leckerly the oldest cookie manufacturer in Switzerland, founded in 1753. The cookies are to die for! It is owned by Andreas and Charlotte Kuster who have held true to the authenticity and high quality of the cookies while bringing a modern and exciting vibe. Well worth a visit when next in Basel.

Great article. But seriously, how can you recommend Läderach when there's a shop like Xocolatl in town? Moreover, there are way better Läckerli than Läckerli Huus. Which bakery makes the best is a topic hotly discussed by local afficionados. But fun to read about my hometown.

We've had the pleasure of living in Basel for more than a decade now and the city keeps getting better. Agree with some of the comments below -- Klein Basel is not "lesser" and Fasnacht doesn't appeal to everyone. After you've seen a few Fasnachts, plus the amazing fire parade in nearby Liestal, it is tempting to get away for a few days. The festivities play havoc with public transport serving anywhere near downtown. There are several other excellent hotels to consider beyond the luxurious and well-publicized Trois Rois. A budget option, for example, is Motel One right off Barfusserplatz; or check out the Teufelhof, located between Barfusserplatz and the Spalenberg neighborhood, and its recently opened serviced apartment facility across the street. Caveat: Basel is in the midst of several major construction projects, which means the city isn't showing at its best. But a lot of that will be wrapped up by the end of the year.

Thanks for this article! But I have one important remark: Kleinbasel actually just means "smaller Basel" and the translation "lesser Basel" is not only incorrect but also disparaging and not true at all. I'm sure everybody visiting Kleinbasel would agree that this multicultural, lively part of town is by no means inferior to Grossbasel. Apart from that I could not agree with the author more: Basel is a wonderful city!

The years painted on buildings aren't when these buildings were built but rather when they were first documented.

What a pleasure it was, this lazy morning, to read this delicious article about Basel, Switzerland. My grandmother, whom I never met, was from Basel. I was never told why she left Basel to live in New York City. From what I gleaned from the Internet, Basel became a fantasy academic and cultural city. And it is! Thanks for the photos that show that one can bask in one's ancient European roots there; that the Rhine is a healthy, swimmable river is amazing; and the taste of chocolate will forever linger in my mouth when I think of Basel. Thank you for my first alive, bird's-eye view of this charming place on the planet Earth.

"...a cheeseburger and fries, about 48 (francs)." Uh, that should be the headline: "A burger and fries in Switzerland costs $50 USD"

I also recommend the Basel Paper Mill, but one quick warning-the museum takes credit cards but the adjoining restaurant does not (or did not a few years ago). We found out the hard way.

Nice article! Appreciate the lead on the hotel Krafft Basel, I will consider it on my next trip. Also, there is a quite nice hotel near the Old Town called The Passage, with well-appointed modern rooms. I can recommend spending several hours in the Old Town at the Basel Historical Museum at the Barfüsserkirche. The museum's collection is fascinating, and their exhibits are as well.

"Erotic chocolate"? Interesting word choice since the CEO of Läderlach -- which, to be fair, is a pretty good product -- is an outspoken evangelical Christian who opposes same sex marriage as well as a woman's right to choose. In fact, Swiss International Air Lines recently ended its contract with Läderlach for the complimentary chocolates it gives to some passengers because of controversies over the CEO's views. Still, Basel is indeed a pleasant place to visit and agree wholeheartedly with the suggestions re: Les Trois Rois as well as the Fondation Beyeler.

" ... Fasnacht (March 1 to 4), which locals call the three best days of the year." Except for the locals who cannot abide the hoopla, crowds and mess in the streets. Not a few of my Swiss coworkers were careful to schedule vacations to get out of town during Fasnacht. We spent three years in the late '80s in Basel for a rotation at one of the pharma companies. Wonderful city. Wonderful people. An extraordinary growing and learning period for our boys.

I remember walking that bridge in my youth. Basel has nothing but happy memories for me. It's an underrated, still mostly undiscovered gem.

You forgot to mention the famous Basel zoo. These kinds of travel reviews frequently concentrate on trendy places to eat, and bars and posh shopping, and of course a few museums thrown in. [And I’ve always wondered if the restaurants and bars and shops featured have worked something out with the NYTimes and the reporters for the coverage. All you‘d have to do is mention you’re doing an article for the New York Times.]

indeed - great place to visit. But beware of swimming in the Rhine as a novice - the current is substantial and you better ask a local before jumping in how to navigate them, and importantly where to get off.

Fifty years ago, we were in Basil for Fasnacht, designed by early Protestants to counteract Mardi Gras and scare the devil out of sinners. It is still mind-boggling, and our now 51-year old son, who was with us as a toddler, still hates the sight of a clown approaching him. I was glad for the article to refresh memories but found it strange that there were so many mentions of Roger Federer and not one of Karl Barth, who for many academics and serious theologians, is Basel's most significant 20th century citizen.

I was just there early January and had a great time. We stayed at Kraft Basel and had a wonderful stay. I would recommend visiting the Vitra Campus just over the border in Germany (you don't need a passport, the tram just passes through the check point). Also the Tinguely Museum just on the Rhein River, a short walk from the Kraft Hotel. Finally another must see for me was the stunning St. Antonius Church, built in 1927 in brutalist style. If you are passionate about architecture, Basel has a lot of amazing structures to visit. Best of all, it's about 30 minutes by train from Zurich.

Just there last weekend. Charming lovely city. Remember to do shopping on Saturdays as, like Germany, Sunday's shops are closed. Also don't miss the Vitra Design Museum a few minutes from Foundation Beyeler.

Thank you for bringing well preserved ancient Basel to life. I've lived there for three years in the 1960's and enjoyed the walk-able city, the views, the art and the food. And of course, a dip in the Rhine, weather permitting. Hopping on a Tram quickly brings you to the surrounding countryside. You can easily fill more than 36 Hours in this civilized pocket of the world.

Just returned from Basel yesterday, this is a great article! Important to note that the Basel card is also included with any Airbnb apartment rental, not just hotels. It includes30 days of free use of the transportation system and half-price museums.

Lovely city. Spent two days there and wish we had more time.