At Milan Men’s Week, the War Lives On

Jan 15, 2020 · 40 comments
Gary (Monterey, California)
Why is it that only the black models were attired in things I would actually consider wearing? Is there a subtext here?
mjb (toronto)
Gucci cannot possibly be inspired by the war era.That is an insult to the men who lived through it. Please bring real men back to the fashion world and send these emaciated twigs home.
Tom D (San Francisco)
Oh I love these stories where frat boys lose a bet and have to go out in public in ridiculous outfits that make them look like nit-wits. Oops, I’m sorry, I spoke too soon. This is about self-important fashionistas who are so desperate to make a ‘statement’ (mainly to themselves since 99.9% of the rest of the world doesn’t give a fig) that they have to go out in public in ridiculous outfits that make them look like nit-wits.
Andrew Kelm (Toronto)
I'm gonna pop some tags.
laurence (bklyn)
It's a grim sign of our times that the models look so sour and unhappy. And that the clothes are so deliberately unflattering. It's hard to imagine where we go from here.
PeterE (Oakland,Ca)
Judging from the photos, fashionable men should be androgynous, preferably emaciated, and wear loose, ugly but expensive clothes.
Bob Tyson (Turin, Italy)
@PeterE Hmmm. Same as women, right? Other than clothes for them tending more to tight, ugly, but expensive.
Frank Knarf (Idaho)
Fashion is a form of comedy in which, with some exceptions, the comics pretend they are not funny.
DemonWarZ (Zion)
There comes a point when we just have to laugh at the absurdity of it! Blah, Blah, billions of dollars.... while species are vanishing, while Americans die from lack of adequate and access to healthcare, a drug epidemic, a warming climate, rents skyrocketing while wages stagnate, the richer get richer, the poorer are evermore stuck. And yet, fashion for the Vanities smear cake on their faces!
Denis Pelletier (Montreal)
Yeah, right. Men are just chomping at the bit to get themselves those threads. And that look. Is it possible to be more disconnected from 99.9 % of the male population? Even stylish men would not be caught dead looking like that. There is fashion forward, sure, but there is also, obviously, fashion nightmare.
Nik Cecere (Santa Fe NM)
I'd call this installment of Milan's Men's fashion week a lot of talk about fashion without much in the way of showing men's fashion. What happened to the idea of photographs of the fashion? It's nice that the writer and the editors thought we wanted to read about fashion from a theoretical aspect rather than look at the out put from the alleged theories. Nothing to show and too much to say, seems to me.
Alison (Switzerland)
@Nik Cecere Agreed! And it seems like the author was looking for anything WWII related on his trip to Milan: reading 8 paragraphs on Gucci's Creative director where the author painfully tries to find anything that will link him to an "old person stuck in the past"... i.e.: "Mr. Michele all but guaranteed that take-away by setting a giant one swinging at the center of a convention space covered in sand and then surrounding it with tiered seating resembling the jury boxes from “Judgment at Nuremberg.’’ i.e. 2: Mr. Michele cannot, at 48, have even a second hand experience of wartime conditions. Yet whether he concedes it or not those years, to a surprising extent, inform his work and not because it was a time of gender dispersion. The past is an occupied country and when Mr. Michele talked about his show as a return to the childhood joy of self discovery, free from gender constraints, he was speaking the language of anyone whose consciousness or experience has ever been colonized. It all seems too subjective to me and obsessive...
Alison (Switzerland)
@Nik Cecere Agreed! And it seems like the author was looking for anything "WWII" related on his trip to Milan: reading 8 paragraphs on Gucci's Creative director where the author painfully tries to find anything that will link his style to that of an "old person stuck in the past" is not what you're looking for when reading a fashion piece - nor does one care if he's gay or not.
Alison (Switzerland)
@Nik Cecere Agreed! And it seems like the author was looking for anything WWII related on his trip to Milan: reading 8 paragraphs on Gucci's Creative director where the author painfully tries to find anything that will link him to an "old person stuck in the past"... i.e.: "Mr. Michele all but guaranteed that take-away by setting a giant one swinging at the center of a convention space covered in sand and then surrounding it with tiered seating resembling the jury boxes from “Judgment at Nuremberg.’’ i.e. 2: Mr. Michele cannot, at 48, have even a second hand experience of wartime conditions. Yet whether he concedes it or not those years, to a surprising extent, inform his work and not because it was a time of gender dispersion. The past is an occupied country and when Mr. Michele talked about his show as a return to the childhood joy of self discovery, free from gender constraints, he was speaking the language of anyone whose consciousness or experience has ever been colonized. ...is not what you're looking for when reading a fashion piece - nor does one care if he's gay or not.
EFM (Brooklyn, NY)
I don't know if it because of the way they were posed, or the clothes they are wearing, but the models in the first picture look cold to the point of seeming alien to everything, including each other.
David (Brooklyn)
Talk about images you’d like to be able to unsee... I look forward to shopping the contents of my own closets, among which I’m sure to find items that feel good and won’t scare children, pets or seniors. In particular, the Gucci obsession with full-bore, aggressively ugly androgyne wear is a mystery: I cannot imagine shelling out that much “cheddar” (as the kids say) to look as if I’d rummaged around in a Goodwill castoffs bin. While I can’t claim to see the war inspiration in most of this, it certainly seems to reflect a competition for the least practical, most unflattering garb devised by the species!
R. Powell (Adirondacks)
Is this not the silliest picture of people you've ever seen? There are real things happening in this world!
Jim (WDC)
It all looks so forced. Derivative. Unoriginal. Contrived.
Richard Hahn (Erie, PA)
My understanding of these shows is that they have something to do with trend-setting and not exactly to do with clothing that would actually be worn anywhere. Otherwise, I'd wonder why these exotic costumes are being presented as fashion, as they risk comparison to a freak show. Some of the photos here include clothing that have some features of being wearable in public or elsewhere, I admit. These are exceptions that may prove my rule.
rxft (nyc)
The clothes in the first picture reinforce my thought that the designers are mocking those who shell out big money for their atrocious designs. Each of those items looks like it has been fished out of a thrift shop bin that has a buy one, get one free sign.
Todd (Chicago)
These fashion collections have to be satire. They HAVE to be.
Andrew (Madison, WI)
Strange, uneasy, bizarre, nostalgic... seems very of-the-moment. Happy to see such an off-the-wall aesthetic being played with for men's fashion. Rules worth breaking. All these comments are so salty!
macbeth (canada)
If someone showed up at my office (or anyone's) looking for work and dressed like that they would be laughed off the premises. When are these designers going to return to this planet? And why do we still indulge them?
Edward (Honolulu)
Male fashion does not originate in the runway but on the b-ball court. Everyone knows that but the fashion commentators.
Papa G. (Vancouver, WA)
I just don't get it.
Michele (Italy)
I don’t see this connection between the war and the clothes, to be sincere I don’t share even after reading the article. Some brands mentioned, like Armani and Fendi, are viewed as brands that offer their customers timeless menswear, this means that the clothes may look “classic” to you but they aren’t inspired by war in any way?! It’s just classic elegance, personally I dislike many Gucci items produced in these years by Alessandro, I found them unwearable, and very ugly on every man, doesn’t matter the stature or the body composition. They don’t respect the beauty and the simmetries of the body.
lh (toronto)
Are you sure about the sex of these models? And honestly, if you saw this stuff in Value Village you'd turn your nose up. I have no hope for the human race. We're finished.
Drew (NJ)
@lh This is what did it for you, huh?
Scott Rader (Las Vegas, NV)
Hilarious photographs!
Sam Ketay (Austin)
Gucci men’s line or Little Rascals reunion?
Old guy Silicon Valley (San Jose, CA)
@Sam Ketay These are men in the first picture?
Joy (New York)
They hurt my eyes
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
As an adherent to man's dress code, the five outfits that I see on the head photo are eccentric. Why do fashion designers always add clashing and buzarre colors to their creations?
Garrett (Seattle)
@Tuvw Xyz Its a marketing ploy. Think of it like chili: there's competition chili and then the stuff you make at home. It is hard to stand out when there are so many designers in the world so fashion houses gravitate towards showy ensembles for their runway advertisements. High contrast (clashing as you say) will do that for you.
Neal (Arizona)
Normally male fashion articles don't even register on my consciousness, but the picture was positioned just right to catch my eye. This us one of the most pathetic things I've seen in a very long time. Heroin chic returns with a vengeance
RW (Paris)
The fendi leather pancho is to die for!
fds (New York)
I don't think the motto "buy less, buy more durable" is something we should criticize considering how much waste and pollution is generated by the fashion industry. It's less a relic from wartime and more an attempt to market the brand as "sustainable". Many of these trends have been forecasted in WGSN and a quick look at designers from other countries show that oversized / functional / military-inspired / wearable tech designs are just trendy now.
Jonahh (San Mateo)
Fashion is like diamonds or art - its only value is what someone is willing to pay for it, and that price is seldom dictated by quality but by marketing. I mean, is any sweater (like the one worn by our fearless FLOTUS) worth $50K+? Um, NO.
RBR (Santa Cruz, CA)
I have traveled this rear to different continents, what I saw in terms of men’s fashion particularly pants... young men love their pants tight and skinny. I don’t think this oversized pants are going to fly anytime soon. Also men loves very short haircuts with big tops manga style.
Andrew (Madison, WI)
@RBR fuller cuts have been in for some time. go to any college campus and everyone looks like kurt cobain