Sweet Potatoes Are Overrated. Turducken Is Performative.

What a wonderful article. Such yummy food references. The New York Times does gives us a Thanksgiving treat!

"Everyone doing the pageant in the same way is the point of holidays." No Julia, it's not.

I disagree with Sam Sifton's comment that salad should never be part of a Thanksgiving meal. I think sharp, fresh greens compliment all the fatty foods served that day. Chocolate, however, is the one food I feel is a sacrilege at Thanksgiving and should never be served, especially in pecan pie. But vive la difference.

Turducken faces the same daunting marketing and public relations challenge as any other food that began with the same 4 letters.

Knowing that all the vegetables and fruits that we enjoy today come mostly from South America and Mexico : potatoes, tomatoes, beans, squash, corn , chocolate, coffee and others ,,,it is very cynical to realize at this Thanksgiving time how the people from South America and Mexico are treated in the USA . And first of all by the president, who surely is completely ignorant of the historical fact .

Pete Wells- please don't go! I so enjoy your writing!!

@Passion for Peaches Bravo! I had the same reaction. I am thoroughly sick of the hype around Thanksgiving meals and winter holiday shopping. Everyone is welcome at my table to give thanks, but the Food and Thought Police can leave their dogmatism in the hall with their coats. Those who want turkey will have to seek it elsewhere or bring it. I decide what I put in my mouth and on my table. All I ask is that others respect my choices, as I do theirs.

I'm so tired of hearing and reading about Thanksgiving. This "holiday season" now starts in October for God's sake and doesn't let up until January. Call me Scrooge but my happiest day of the year is January 1st.

Oh, how I hate the go-around-the-table-what-am-I-thankful-for thing. Combines the worst of social anxiety, awkward attempts to express true feelings in a situation that favors the tritest of sentiments, mixed with, always, the risk of someone inadvertently wandering into territory that is way more controversial than they realized when they started their sentence. Oh, the feeling of my gut looking up before I've even tasted anything. For every eight or ten people at the table, I guarantee there are at least one or two who are roiling in anxiety whenever this awful tradition rears its head.

"Sweet potatoes are often overrated." Sam Sifton, I love you. Finally someone agrees with me. There have never been, nor will there ever be, sweet potatoes in any form on my Thanksgiving table. I wish I had a dollar for every time someone has told me "Oh, but you'd love my sweet potato casserole/pie!" No. No thanks. You've just taken something that tastes really, really bad and made it even worse by putting sugar all over it. Sam, you are welcome at my house! Happy Thanksgiving!

Loved Pete Wells’ comments. Nothing like a tofucken on Thanksgiving.

"Mashed. Why are you asking this question?" LOL.

I'm surprised that the interlocutors of this forum didn't debate what kind of stuffing belongs at Thanksgiving. Sage? Oyster? Cornbread? Other (fill in the blank)? But I suppose if they had, the conversation would have taken up the entire article!

One thing Americans should learn on Thanksgiving is that all the vegetable and fruits that the native South America and Mexico gave us in North America and in Europe first : beans, corn , peppers, squash , chocolate, coffee, potatoes, tomatoes, etc... the Americans have stolen from them and from the whole world. All the seeds from these plants have been patented and stolen by a couple American firms. Today the farmers from all over the world and the farmers from South America and Mexico have to pay by law these mafia US firms who have acquired the genetic history and property of all the plants to buy seeds !!! The Americans stole the whole genetic code of the whole planet . Under what right ? By what trick ? It is a disgrace . When is the rest of the world going to react against the dishonesty of the American people ?

I can’t believe that this statement appeared in this newspaper: “ Refusing to serve turkey at Thanksgiving is like refusing to put candy canes on the Christmas tree just because you don’t like peppermint. It doesn’t matter if you actually like it. Everyone doing the pageant in the same way is the point of holidays.” Really? So I guess a vegetarian Hindu immigrant can’t be a real American, or even considered a good and generous host, because he or she won’t serve a roast turkey at the holidays. What a bunch of exclusionary, judgmental, narrow minded nonsense. There will be no turkey on my holiday table. I guess that makes me a lesser person, in Julia’s view. How tiresome and offensive.

Take sweet potatoes mix with copious amounts of butter, flour, sugar, eggs, milk, some spices, bake..then you’re on to something.

Must be the french culture in me: I've never understood Thanksgiving — too many dishes, too much food, all set on the table at the same time. As if trying to make up for the mediocrity of the daily offerings the rest of the year. So protestant. Grumpy and grouchy, I know, but my "deux sous'" worth. That said, enjoy your meal and day.

Hey Julia! How about a recipe for that maple-lemon-sherry fizz.

Thank God I was born and raised Italian.

A wonderful alternative or addition to turkey is a ham. Buy one from North Carolina, Georgia, Tennesee or Virginia and cook it outdoors on the grill for about 18 minutes per pound. Separate the charcoal into two halves and push the coals to the sides of the grill, for indirect heat, put the ham in a disposable aluminum baking dish and tent it. I didn't the first time I cooked one and thought I had the world's largest charcoal briquette. When I cut into though, my brother-in-law nearly knocked me down getting to it, and said "I think we have a new family tradition." The flavor is fabulous, way better than turkey, and the leftovers are wonderful.

What a great piece to start my prep day! Glad to know I’m en vogue this year with my dry “brine” inspired by Kim Severson’s recipe. Tried another recipe last year but Kim’s is a superior replacement. Also feeling a bit validated because I commented as I was preparing my birds yesterday, “I’m not sure why this is called brine. It’s really just a rub.” Perhaps we must refer to it as a brine at least until we capture the attention and convert those who have not been enlightened, still torturing themselves with a traditional brine? Passionately disagree on the sweet potatoes unless you are referring to those marshmallow topped things. Mine are served as a savory gratin made with caramelized onions, cream, sage and a bit chipotle pepper if you like some smoky heat.

I can’t believe there is no discussion about stuffing. In my family, stuffing is the sine qua non of Thanksgiving.

Great article! Truly unity in diversity (in this case, diversity of opinions) ~ like the holiday itself. Grateful for the NYT Food section.

given that I am a heretic in pecan pie matters - if you add 2/3 cup of semisweet chocolate pieces to your Bourbon Pecan Pie recipe you will have an amazing pie - and unexpected (though in parts of Georgia and Alabama such sacrilege might cause upset)

I love the near-consensus about potatoes. Thanksgiving, mashed potatoes, and plenty of gravy. Maybe a warm buttered biscuit to dip in the gravy? Several years ago, my mother discovered the joy of making her own cranberry sauce fresh. I can't believe it, but she actually gets daring. To, cranberry sauce is a home cook's opportunity to conjure all the seasons at once. Last year my mom put a little bit of lemon zest in it. It was like a little distant echo of summer in the middle of the cold. Anything that helps turkey is ok in my book. Not my fave bird. But it is the entire meal that makes the day! I heard that this year, a relative is insisting on bringing a honey baked ham. If you think about all this, it is really hard to complain. I, for one, love how leftovers work this time of year. A plain leftover turkey sandwich the day after, with generous mayo and salt and, especially, pepper, is comfort food that just continues the slumberous weekend. I have zero complaints about this holiday. I will drink eggnog, secretly add some rum to it, and be merry, and refuse negative thoughts, for at least one day.

I love that these food giants all chimed in for Thanksgiving opinions! My dearly departed mother-in-law, Jean Hewitt, worked for the Times for years, from the 1960's in the test kitchen with Craig, then as the Times NJ restaurant reviewer, and then wrote 15 NYT cookbooks, with her final stint as food editor of Family Circle, closing down next month. I was invited to her Thanksgiving table as a college student in the 1970's, where I had several firsts: oyster stuffing (from inside the turkey neck), sausage stuffing inside the cavity, oyster stew as a first course, and my first fresh cranberry sauce grated with fresh oranges. I watched her cook for decades, and became accomplished myself because she had a pure way of cooking fresh food with great ingredients. The suggestion to pick your menu in your 20's and stick with it, a great idea, is what I did for the past 40 years. Lastly, giving thanks around the table reminds us that, for a brief few hours, we have much to be thankful for. Thank you for this delightful piece!

"Sweet potatoes are often overrated." With all due respect to Mr. Sifton, sweet potatoes are extremely healthy and preferable to white potatoes, whether on Thanksgiving or anytime. http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=64

Lots of good stuff here, especially the pickle advice. But "sweet potatoes overrated" is what caused me to read the article. I couldn't disagree more. They're actually underrated. Sweet potatoes or really, yams, are appropriate and tasty at almost any meal, skin and all. Pro tip: yams are a superior smoothie ingredient. My breakfast smoothie consists of half a cooked yam, a raw egg, a carrot, a quarter apple or pear, a handful of walnuts, 1/4 oz 100% cacao bar, something oily like a quarter avocado, a teaspoon of any nut butter, flaxseed or cod liver oil, a small scoop of chocolate-flavored protein powder, and 16 oz coffee. I usually throw in a tbsp of oats, a couple tbsps of cooked quinoa, and a tbsp of chia seeds, too. In season, I add a scoop of watermelon, and cut the coffee to 12 oz. Blend at high speed in a Vitamix or similar blender until creamy smooth. Add as much ice as you prefer, and blend on high until the ice is fully assimilated. This concoction tastes better than many premium malts and shakes, and makes for a very nutritious breakfast. Calorie counters can eliminate the oils, the oats, the nut butter... and it's still good! Yams are also wonderful in the more typical fruity smoothies, too. Overrated for Thanksgiving? Not necessary, but certainly not overrated.

Definitely no Salad. I mean, WHY? No pie for me, but I'm making three. I don't know why but I know other people like them. Trying vegan butter this year in the crusts, and I regret it already. But they're in the fridge and will be baked tomorrow. I like the idea of making a shrub. Too late, though. It's TUESDAY. I am grateful for so much, and love the chance to tell people about it. I won't make you tell me yours, though. My guests are captives, and have to listen to my gratitudes before they can eat. Hah! Happy Thanksgiving to all! I do hope we have much to relish. (sorry)

I realize that most folks are unable to do this, but our favorite Thanksgiving sides etc are made with vegetables we grow during the previous summer--everything from peas and carrots to broccoli to, yes, the pumpkin in the pie. It always gives us an extra reason to be thankful--to nature/God for a bountiful harvest. p.s. I disagree about the sweet potatoes being overrated. I have a great recipe for fixing them involving brown sugar and crushed pecans--delicious!

I always wondered if there was a vegan version of turducken. If so, would it be called “tofucken”? (I’ll see myself out)

What, no mince pie? Growing up, it was always a favorite tradition. My adult children won’t touch it! I make it anyway!

Pickled EVERYTHING! What a great contrast to all the fat and starch. Great idea!

In my book, a salad is nice- an oasis of lightness in a desert of density. It's probably healthy for your bowels, too. You know, like a smidgen of roughage. Can't hurt. Also, duck should be allowable. I'm sure they had ducks at the first Thanksgiving. Probably some venison, too. Beverage: A good, dry cider for the daytime and crisp white wine with dinner.

I bake the Pumpkin Pie filling in Pyrex (or any oven-proof glass cups) cups. So many crusts turn out soggy, and even if it turns out well, a lot of people don't want to consume the flour/fat combo which is the basis of crusts. Diners can enjoy the spicy part without having to try to hide the fact that they are pushing aside the mediocre crust and the calories of the crust. Of course, you could do a pie with a crust and some filling-only versions baked in oven-proof glass cups.

Sweet potatoes are heavenly! Each to his/her own.

I wish I could remember where I saw this (maybe an old Gourmet magazine?) -- a pumpkin pie baked in two parts. The pumpkin custard baked in a pie plate, then loosened and slid into a pre-baked pie crust, so the crust was flaky, browned, not soggy. I think that's the only way to guarantee cooked crust under a pumpkin pie.

Sweet potatoes are very healthy! And don’t forget the skin.

Agree on the brining. It's tasted like a salty dish rag several years ago and I gave up on it. Sous vide doesn't work so well with a big bird, but poultry is great cooked to a precise temperature. And the skin needs a bit of work. I am surprised I haven't seen more pan roasted potatoes. My family has always included them with lamb and beef. I don't know why they haven't been found with turkey. Hmmm. Maybe I'll try them. BTW, in Baltimore sauerkraut is a traditional side. It's tart acid crunch can be a nice complement although some like it cooked until soggy. Thx. Happy Thanksgiving to all.

I agree with the no salad rule except for cole slaw. We are the only people I know who have cole slaw at Thanksgiving and I am puzzled. So refreshing...it rounds out the meal perfectly. Try it, you will not be sorry.