Every year I read your recommendations and every year I can't find these wines in stores near me in NJ. Once I even entertained the idea of going into the city (NYC) to buy some of your recommendations. All of the stores in NYC were sold out of your recommendations.
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People drink wine at Thanksgiving? Never have seen that!
I would invite Pete to my Thanksgiving dinner. That zin sounds like my style.
Select your Thanksgiving wine from the menu of the restaurant where you have made lunch or dinner reservations instead of creating a bloody mess of your kitchen (what do do with that corpse of a turkey) and house.
Easy peasy...
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Always the budget route. Oye.
If there is any meal, or gathering that warrants stepping up a bit, Thanksgiving would be the time. Not sayin’ go from $20-$100, but one or two particularly nice bottles could really make the meal fabulous and memorable.
Also, think large formats- mags (1.5 L or 2 bottles), or even a 3L- impressive on the table and everyone gets to enjoy a few glasses of the same wine.
Wine for Thanksgiving does not always need to be dummed down for the lowest common denominator of your guests.
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Does anyone have thoughts of using Baco Noir with Thanksgiving? Seems like a good choice, and found a couple bottles while in Kelowna, Canada. Any thoughts are appreciated.
I recommend a decent box of red (Pinot or Zin) and a nice white (sauv blanc) as the reserve. When the bottles are empty, the boxes will come to the rescue and if they are decanted, no one will complain!
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It's not a coincidence that the Beaujolais Nouveau is released just in time for Thanksgiving. Well, I don't know, maybe it is a coincidence. But that's what I always serve, and I think it goes very well with the meal.
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I agree, low tannins,no sweet wines, low alcohol, fruity is good. But Thanksgiving is an American holiday. There is no reason not to stay with wines made in America. Sure there is California, Oregon, Washington, but good wine is made in every state now! Explore.
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Thanksgiving is a national holiday to celebrate our family, community, and lical/national bounty.
Serve American wine. We have some of the best in the world to explore. Same with July 4, Flag Day, Memorial Day, Veterans Day, Election Day, Dead Presidents Day,
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I’m going to go American and mostly Finger Lakes this year. Dr. Frank, Keuka, etc. Will try to find a quality bottle or two of cider.
There will be attendees which prefer to drink their boxed wine. That is fine with me. I don’t want to force people into the good stuff, but it will be there if they want it.
I don’t understand the people who spend the time to comment on here about how none of it matters, don’t drink at all, etc. Have fun!
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Over years Zinfandel at Thanksgiving has been the king (usually reserved for Cabernet) because of its flexibility with a myriad of Thanksgiving flavors and it’s American pedigree in many ways. (Genetically from Croatia, I know).
Choosing a high alcohol Zinfandel was a misstep and finding one from an old Italian family like Rafanelli can warm anyone’s heart, like a crackling fire that brings everyone together. Rinse and repeat each Thanksgiving. After that choice, one can go esoteric with names and flavors that are unique like the melting pot we are.
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Light, inexpensive and most important - know your guests' preferences. I don't like sweet wines, but my sister and her husband adore them, so I always have a bottle at the feast.
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After living in wine country for seventeen years and visiting many wineries I just gradually lost interest in wine.
The driving while drinking guidelines are strict so any driving and drinking is dangerous.
Very good meals like Thanksgiving deserve to be enjoyed for all its flavors without alcohol to change the taste.
Try enjoying food without alcohol and reserve drinking for a pleasant night cap.
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Really, no wine at dinner? You go your way and I’ll go mine.
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Peter Lehmann's Black Queen. It is stunning that no one in the US knows that perfect wine to drink with the traditional Turkey, Stuffing and Potatoes of your choice. Sparkling Shiraz. Sparking Shiraz. Sparking Shiraz. Not only does it pair perfectly roast turkey, it is bubbly and festive and not overwhelmingly high in alcohol. It has been our go to favorite for Thanksgiving and Christmas since we visited Australia the first time nearly 20 years ago. I just do not get the US wine writers who struggle to come up with makeshift holiday wine pairing two times a years when there is a perfect wine that ticks all the boxes. We will be drinking the Black Queen next week. YUM.
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@jamdownunder American sparkling wine .
Big headache the next day .
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JPH- you are painting with a mighty broad brush there. Many high end American method champenoise winemakers are making sparkling wines that can rival the best from France. If you are drinking Cooks, or Cold Duck, yes big bubbles (carbonated with has rather than natural) mean big trouble.
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Thanksgiving? Quantity and not quality solves all problems.
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Wrong . Sorry- quantity never trumps quality once you get past the age of 22..
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Loire valley QUINCY and alsatian Pinot Gris ! yes
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Wow, Eric and friends let us down with a melange of foreign wines that they praised and some American wines that he mostly dissed(though maybe deservedly so). And all for the most American of holidays! Curious.
I live in American wine country (though that's all over this country now) and I love to eat and drink local. Your wine column would be much more informative and interesting if it skipped the esoteric once in a while.
If only this column were of the caliber of the WSJ's Gaiter and Brecher
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@Steve "Local" would be problematic for a newspaper with broad national, and international, readership.
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Holidays with big meals are basically my Super Bowl from a wine perspective. On Xmas I crack open some of the best from my cellar, but for TG, the guidance of not going too crazy is generally on point. The meal in our household is all over the place, and the dishes on the table range from earthy mushroom dishes to casseroles literally topped with marshmallows. That makes exact pairings a challenge.
Well made Beaujolais is almost always on the top of my list for its liveliness and overall balance. If you can find a sleek, vibrant Zinfandel those are also superb, but the medium-bodied style is rare these days. For whites, I love Rieslings and Gruner-Veltliners, in the former case especially those from the Finger Lakes. Sparklers are another refreshing favorite---cremants from Burgundy, Alsace, or Loire are delicious and cost effective, and pet nats are great for a somewhat geekier option. I aim to spend less than $30 for any bottle because even with a small crowd, you go through a lot.
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Well, I've been through some angst in the last ten days over recycling. So, I was sent off to the NH liquor store to get the "box"
God knows, she tried. I prefer single malts and have nothing to do with this part of life, BUT I do buy her a discounted clos du Bois when the price is right and I do buy her good wines to go along with her misguided pallet.
But yesterday, the verdict was in: Don't buy anymore wine in a box. Pass it on. Now, I need a public gathering to get it out of here.
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I would never buy boxed wine in the U.S. I would never drink it either. A travesty and a tragedy. But here in France most regional “Caves” produce remarkably drinkable boxes. Whenever you order wine by the glass in a restaurant here, if a choice is not offered, you can bet the house wine is the local Cave’s best box. I got tired of throwing out bottles. A good 5L box costs around $18-$35 and lasts a whole month, no special refrigeration necessary. I’ve done taste comparisons with far more expensive wines and the box held its own. Even some producers at Chateauneuf du Pape do boxes, but as with all tightly controlled AOCs you have to go there and search for them.
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@joymars True in Italy, also, for daily meal consumption: Primativo, 3 litre at around the same price. Nothing special but drinkable for a weekday meal. But probably not for a holiday meal.
@joymars I've actually found the boxed wines by Bota and Black Box to be as good as any sub $20 wine I've had, and they last longer in the box than a bottle too.
At this point in my life, I either drink boxed wine or Caymus...anything in between is no better than the boxed wine, but more expensive nonetheless.
For longer than I'd like to remember, my favorite T-Day wine is a dry Gewürztraminer. Trust me.
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Must have a gorgeous pilsner from Van Trapp, Crement from Bordeaux and gewürztraminer for appetizers. Ill be pouring Husch
gewurztraminer from Mendocino and a White Chateauneuf du Pape. We also have a nice white hautes-Cote De Beaune made of Chardonnay. Then during the main course I’ll pour Brouilly: a Gamay Cru from Chateau Des Tours and a Pinot Noir Cote De Beaune. As the night goes on we will switch to big reds with a 2010 Medoc by Chateau Ramafort, a Cote Du Blaye by Chatuea Le’ Experience and a beautiful Pomerol. To close it out with desserts and coffees will be chilled Pommeau de Normandie from Christian Drouin and a chilled Black Grenache. This intense Rivesaltes, from Chateau Le Pins goes with sweet and cheeses. And there is always XO Rhum from HSE and cognac or bandy and benedictine. Sorry but never ever have anything to do with makers of Two Buck Chuck: That juice is crud.
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@Sendan
Best comment. Very descriptive. There's a lot of detail here. Thanks for taking the time and trouble to write this out.
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When should I arrive?
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For whites I like Gruner Veltliner and vinho verde. For reds, cru Beaujolais, or a Cotes du Rhone. Eric’s right, though. It’s hard to mess this up.
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Since the holiday celebrates our good fortune in a new land I usually bring an American wine to Thanksgiving dinner. The rest of the year I can enjoy what the world has to offer
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as always craft beer for me - IPAs straight from NYCs best breweries.
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@Nate
It is about wines...
Go out and buy a bottle.
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I enjoy a small glass of inexpensive wine with my lunch, but I recognize the role of alcohol in old-age dementia. Please describe Mr. Asimov's connection to the wine industry.
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I'm only middle class. After donating over eleven grand this year alone to needy friends and relatives (this year it's been paying for my brother's child custody case, my cousin's DNA testing for immigration purposes, part of my friend's lung lobectomy surgery (he had no insurance), and then, along with a couple other friends, supporting that friend's family financially for a few months while he recovered), the last thing I'm willing to spend money on for Thanksgiving is even only moderately spendy booze that's going to be drunk up. My parents live with me (and my hubby and our kids) so our house is going to be where Thanksgiving is, but the only wine I'm buying is boxed Franzia or Vella or something else from the bottom shelf at Woodman's liquor department, the cheapest place to buy alcohol in Madison, Wisconsin. I'd hazard a guess that even Carlo Rossi is better than whatever they were drinking at the Marriage at Cana.
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Sounds like fun over at your place for the holidays!
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@andrea olmanson Boxed wines may be less expensive but they typically have high levels of arsenic, Franzia topping the list.
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Every year I start the morning with a nice Burgundy--which I use with a hypodermic needle to inject the bird before it goes into the oven, especially in the breast area, which dries out easily--and then, though the day, I slowly enjoy the bottle, discreetly located in the jumble on the counter where nobody else would think to find it. Yum.
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Ahh yes....my decades long enamored relationship with quality alcohol. It was in “the season” that I obsessed about the right pairings of quality wines and liquor. I indulged in the morning ritual of slow sipping on a festive day...slowly building to that “crescendo’ of having a meaningful buzz for the time the actual eating begins. That slide into the full loss of control sadly ended the party for me. It was indeed a live affair with an ugly ending.
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:) I'm 61 and the only wine I have ever encountered at Thanksgiving was a relative complaining.
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The aromatic Beaujolais Nouveau is the only wine for Thanksgiving. Sacre Bleu!
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Uh, hate to admit it, but I'm primarily in attendance for the food and wine (and robustly flavored ale, which I typically provide), not for the family and friends. The "annual ritual" comes in second, then all of the grumpy uncles & aunts, in-laws and "out-laws". Wine, especially good wine, comes in very handy.
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"As popular as rosé has become, consumers continue to toss it aside like worn espadrilles after Labor Day. "
I found this so funny I am going to incorporate it in my repertoire of things to say about rose wines :-).
Also, I feel sorry for Pete! But I can see why a 15.2 abv could be a little bit too much.
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Thank you! One of my favorite Thanksgiving traditions over the last decade is taking your wine suggestions to local wine shops for the hunt. Our wine hunt stories, direct hits and knock offs that we are assured come close to the gang's guidelines, improves the wines' status and contributions to the meal. I sort of miss your friendly wine trash talking antidotes during your early meals, but grateful again this year that the tradition lives on!
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May we run out of numbers before we run out of things for which we're grateful.
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Most of our guests don't read this column, and really don't care a whole lot about what is being poured. A room full of friends and family, a kitchen bustling with activity, and the smell of freshly baked apple pie wafting in the air . . . . . I'll drink almost anything on a day like that.
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You can put any leftover wine in a zip-lock, squeeze out the air and put it in the freezer for cooking with later.
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@David Whitney That's sounds like a neat trick and one which I'd never thought of (and I sold wine for a bit and probably poured out more than most will ever drink). :-)
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@David Whitney What's "leftover wine"?
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For the Thanksgiving meal, one of my go to choices is an Alsatian Gran Cru Pinot Gris (Gustave Lorentz, preferably). For pre-dinner imbibing, sparklers and light reds are de rigueur. Of course, our tastes all differ, which is why having a good selection is of the utmost importance.
Cheers.
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2 bottles per guest if Uber is being used.
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@ TracieBarnes Denver
Your guests must be hard drinkers, 1.5 liters wine at 12 to 15% alcohol by volume. My limit is 1/2 liter. Salut!
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Over the years I've spent $50-60-70-80 per bottle to find 'great' wines as suggested in wine columns in some papers and for the life of me I cannot tell a difference. I'm a confirmed believer that if you spend more than $20 for a bottle of wine you ARE overpaying.
Best wine I ever had was the 1987 Cab from Los Vascos in Chile, their first year, and it WAS nectar of the gods. $8.00 per bottle. Nothing like it ever before or since. For THAT I'd pay a lot.
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@Mike
Great point! I'm in CA and $30 in any wine store is my absolute limit .. If it's a young red 15'-17' decanter the bottle and let it breathe for an hour.. Nobody will no the difference. Avoid blends...
Duckhorn Vineyards has a line of mid-range bottles "Decoy" that will appease even the most discerning pallet.
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Tell Pete to stay with the zinfandels and have him try any of the many great zins from Macchia Winery in California. You will not be disappointed.
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@ MLH Carmel, Indiana
True, one can always find or invent wines associated with religious and national holidays. Much soul-searching and trouble is spared, if one sticks to the different grades of real Champagne.
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@MLH I love Zin at Thanksgiving but I'm picky and stick with Napa Zin or a Ridge as they tend to be lower in abv and more food friendly. The problem is they are more expensive but it is a holiday! Try Storybook Mtn, Rombauer, Montelena or Grgich if you don't mind busting the budget.
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@Joseph Rombauer zin, my favorite! Also try Columbia Gorge Maryhill zin, >$25.
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I'm far from a nationalist, but I always try to serve American wine on this most "American" holiday.
This year, we have a small bunch, so I threw the budget out the window a bit and am focusing on Willamette Valley offerings. I'll be serving the lovely Gamay Noir from Evening Land and the Ab Ovo Pinot Gris from Archery Summit. Each retails for under $40 and while that doesn't constitute a "value" wine by most people's standards, I'm only serving two bottles of each...so the budget hit isn't as much of a concern.
Happy Thanksgiving.
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For my table, a dry Riesling is a must. The crisp dryness provides a fantastic palate cleanser and fortunately, there are many very decent Rieslings at $20 and under. For my red wine, I always enjoyed an Australian Shiraz because it's light enough not to weigh the diners down but the spice notes compliment the meal nicely. And having a few bottles of a light sparkling win (I usually go with either a Prosecco or Cava) satisfies those who want some bubbles. At my table of 11, we usually go through three or four bottles and they do help the meal along nicely.
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@ Ravnwing Levittown, NY
I am with you on Riesling, even though it is acidic.The best ones are by far from Alsace, difficult to find in wine stores here, as well as over there. Next best are the dry whites of the Loire Valley.
Most of the reds in the trade are too tannic to my taste. Exceptions are Argentinian Malbecs, a poor-man's substitue for the unaffordable 5-10-year aged Bordeaux.
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One can find many wines for purchase online, including Alsatian rieslings, often with free shipping.
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@Tuvw Xyz
Alsace does make some good rieslings (as does Austria) but you should really try the German top producers like Breuer, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Dönhoff – all dry and some of the best white produced in the world - to get rid of your stereotypes regarding riesling.
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When I think of all the great wines that are out there. Wines that sell between $10 and $25 and these are the wines that they come up with, well, I feel a little let down. I think there is a lot of thanksgivingwinefatigue going on here, why else would wine professionals be dragging out Sauvignon Blanc or (god help me) Trebbiano to have with thanksgiving dinner. Part of being in the wine industry in the US is facing the wine hungry hordes every November and giving appropriate, available and reasonably priced suggestions, no matter how bored you are.
I think I’ll go sit down and have a glass of Terlaner and calm down.
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@jrb The article clearly explains why they are "dragging out" the wines you mentioned and many of the comments here reflect that doing so was an appropriate choice.
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I have lately noticed Pinot Gris creeping onto mainstream shelves - bright and acidic. In the $15-$20 range a few I have tried seem interchangeable with Sauvignon Blancs for the white option. A short list of Pinot Noirs would be nice (next year) there are so many good ones at a range of pricing. Beaujolais used to be my basic table wine but given the exchange rate and cost of shipping it seems like less of a value these days.
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Good choices especially from the Finger Lakes and the Abruzzi region of Italy.Unfortunately Cabernet Francs from the Finger lakes are not widely available.Their Rieslings are more common
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Every year I offer nice Pinot Noir and sparkling, every year they drink my bourbon.
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@Brent
Ouch. Hide the bourbon this year.
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I love a rose made with Balufrankisch and would not have thought of it for Thanksgiving. Thanks for the tip!
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@Annie
A Baluf.... what?
I don't envy you having to write this piece every year, I did it for 10 years while in the business and grew to really dislike the job. But this one is certainly repeatable. Keep the alcohol below 13%, and keep it simple. This year I've got eight people. Four bottles of Portuguese vinho verde branco (11% alcohol), four $15/bottles of Beaujolais from the Kermit Lynch collection (13.5%, immediately breaking my own rule), and two bottles of Prosecco. If any of my more discerning guests are still thirsty, I'll treat them to something out of the cellar from Alsace. Easy-peasy.
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I put little or no thought in the wines for Thanksgiving. By mid-afternoon, no one really cares what they are drinking and their palate and minds are dulled by the combination of day drinking, dehydration, salt overload, judgements by family members, arguments over football and overeating. My lingering memories will be of my cautious slow dish washing of fine china over the sink in an inebriated state.
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@ Potter USA
I am surprised that the author's choice of Thanksgiving wines does not include his usual list of obscure and ou9t of the way wineries.
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@Tuvw Xyz this is because the panel guests brought the wines – like each year :=
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What a wonderful holiday you speak of at your house....cen’t anni
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Blending Pinot Noir with other grapes is sinful if it is done by the makers of Two Buck Chuck, but a blessing when the wine is a burgundy called passetoutgrain?
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@Jeff B It's pretty rare to find Pinot Noir in any blend, whatever the name, the author isn't wrong about this, but I think the "sinful" element is more selling a blend AS "Pinot Noir", which is so rare that it's borderline lying.
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@Jeff B It's a matter of motives: Bronco mixes grapes to wring every last cent of value out of its juice. Passetoutgrain is made when pinot noir and gamay grapes are planted together in the same vineyard, a practice that goes back centuries. And I suppose you could say the same of Champagne: Mixing two red grapes with a white one? Scandalous!
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@Bunk McNulty
Might the correct spelling be Passedoutagain?
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When I sold wine as a retailer, I would stock up on a specific Burgundy for Thanksgiving. Sadly, it's now more like ~$30 - 40 than the $25 budget, but it's a terrific match for the monster meal that is Thanksgiving, as most examples offer a mid-weight, refreshing, balanced, savory take on Pinot Noir.
The excruciatingly bad joke always resulted in 5 - 10 cases of sales leading up to the holiday.
Turkey with the Fixin.
Dan Kravitz
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