Meatballs Like You Haven’t Seen Them

Oct 21, 2019 · 25 comments
Pat (Colorado Springs CO)
Wow, who knew so many people had meatball opinions? Mine have a nice texture; as someone said, throw on that sauce just before serving.
Richard (Palm City)
And Martha Stewart likes her fried eggs crispy also. But I don’t. Crispy meatballs are finger foods. Just let the meatballs cook in the sauce.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
I cannot help but come back to the similarity of crispy meatballs to Scotch eggs and Arab kibbes, as recently discussed in "Spinach Pies, and Other Reasons to Linger at Sakib". Once I induced my wife to make crispy meatballs of a somewhat larger size by mixing the ground beef with white mushrooms. The result was excellent.
Sera (The Village)
I wonder if it would be possible for you to state your preference without recruiting semantics to aid you? Your "soggy" meatballs would be someone else's "tender and fluffy" meatballs. Your 'crisped' food is someone else's 'burnt' food, and so on. As it happens, I've worked on meatballs for the past seven years, with about four hundred variations so far, from around the world. Some are 'crisped' and some are 'sauced'. None are soggy. I don't really even know what that would be like.
Bekke (Washington DC)
I adore this recipe. Fun to make, fabulous to eat--even cold leftovers the next day. Thanks so much, Alison.
Salvatore (Montreal)
In my mother’s kitchen on Sunday mornings the meatballs evolved through several stages. Beginning with the raw chopped meat with eggs and spices, akin to steak tartar, and ultimately into the sauce or gravy to be retrieved as infused little pillows of delight. But the intermediate species were crispy, fried boules that were my favorite and apparently what Ms. Roman favors as well. So beyond the crispy meatballs, noted here, there is lots of room for experimentation with each stage of meatball evolution.
plainleaf (baltimore)
the solution to sogginess problem is simple. Don't pour the sauce until just before serving.
Zaldid Sorn (Chiberia)
I always prefer crispy over saucy.
Gary Valan (Oakland, CA)
Alison, its your choice but to use yogurt in a spicy dish is sacrilege. Its these middle eastern people who came up with this concept, easily confusing yogurt with other available mediums...I should know, I make my own yogurt but only consume it south Indian style. However, I am like you, I don't like watery or overly liquid dishes and lean towards drier dishes unless if its my special sausage dish with red wine and hot veggies. I'll try this with Field Roast vegetarian sausages...:)
Prakash Nadkarni (USA)
@Gary Valan: Maybe you don't like yoghurt+spices, but you shouldn't promote your personal preference to a culinary edict. While combining meat and dairy is sacrilegious in kosher Jewish cuisine, Islam, which was adopted by nomadic Asian/North African cultures that used both liberally, dropped this restriction while retaining other Jewish customs (circumcision, the ban on pork). Yoghurt in spicy dishes is ubiquitous in Indo-Pakistani cuisine. In Mughlai cuisine, salted yoghurt with a mixture of spices (including mild chilies) and herbs is used to marinate meat before cooking for curries & pilafs. Tandoori Chicken gets similar extended marination before roasting. A vegetarian yoghurt curry, "kadhi", widely consumed in North & Central India, uses yoghurt thickened with a little chickpea flour plus a variety of spices, including ginger, green chilies, cumin, coriander seed, turmeric and cilantro. The Indian yoghurt smoothie ("lassi") comes in a salty-spicy version with cumin, ginger, asafetida and a little green chili. South Indian Hindu (vegetarian) cooking may be the exception in its preference for yoghurt consumed straight, but South Indian Muslim cooking is influenced by Mughlai while being considerably spicier. (Aziz Ansari hails from this last community.)
Pb (NYC)
I don't always like yogurt, so I'm thinking romesco sauce, or ricotta whipped with blitzed sun-dried tomatoes instead. So many possibilities, thank you.
Prakash Nadkarni (USA)
Ms. Roman, your diatribe against "saucy" recipes reminds me of the "Curb Your Enthusiasm" episode where Larry David, planning a restaurant venture with friends, infuriates Ted Danson by vetoing Ted's personal chef's application for head chef, on the grounds that his food is "too saucy". Crispy ground meat in various forms is a standard component in various cuisines (e.g., Middle Eastern kebabs) and in Indian Parsi cuisine, mini-meatballs are a side to the signature meat-legume-mixed vegetable stew, Dhansak (influenced by the Iranian tradition of using legumes to extend meat). But you need to get over yourself. Combining a sauce, which adds its own flavor, to a crispy ingredient is not a culinary travesty. I would concede that combining them at serving time preserves crunchiness. This is done for the Indian snack bhel-puri, where individual diners/customers combine crunchy ingredients like puffed rice, deep-fried puffed mini-breads ("puri") and fried chickpea vermicelli ("sev") with soft ingredients such as onion, potato, tomato and chickpeas, plus "sauces" in the form of sweet tamarind-date chutney, spicy cilantro-mint chutney and hot chili-garlic-ginger chutney in proportions determined by personal preference. Combining these well in advance would be like combining potato chips or fries with gravy/ketchup 1/2 hour before serving. Your recipe is delicious, however.
Hard Right (Paradise)
@Prakash Nadkarni So much this. Big fan of crispy, but equally enthralled by a sauce. Anyone that advocates one over the other, or has even a bit of supremacy, is spewing subjective twaddle. Sauces main function is not make something wet. And indeed, I find with certain dishes, the softened, but still detectable ‘crunch’, is a destination itself.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Denis Pelletier Montreal The author's crispy meat balls remind of Scoth eggs. Served cold, two or three Scotch eggs are a filling meal. They are the only British food that I like, besides occasionally excellent fish and chips.
Greater Metropolitan Area (Just far enough from the big city)
Crisp, not crispy!
Lawrence H (Brisbane)
@Greater Metropolitan Area I believe you can use either crisp or crispy, although crispy is used more to describe the texture of food, e.g crispy bacon. You say to-MAY-to and I'll say to-MAH-to... Cheers!
Sera (The Village)
@Greater Metropolitan Area I agree, completely, but if we're going to combat baby talk, we're on a mission of despair. Twenty five years ago I swore that I would never use the word 'veggie', and I never have. I have however moved to the bottom of a well in an undisclosed location, which was the only place I found that baby talk was not current. Now, do you want to talk about "Nom-nom"?
Kathleen (Denver)
Allison seems to think openly disliking foods everyone else enjoys (puréed soups, avocados, eggplant parm) makes her opinions chic and original. But it just makes her sound like a picky toddler.
Marianna (Houston, TX)
@Kathleen I do not like pureed soups, in general. I think any kind of generalization when it comes to culinary tastes is bound to disappoint someone.
Elle (Kitchen)
@Kathleen Lighten up! She's talking like an opinionated friend that you enjoy for her quirks!
Jim (MA)
@Elle I know that's what she seems to be going for in these pieces. But she hits an obstacle at the "that you enjoy" part of it.
Lorraine Fina Stevenski (Land O Lakes, Flordia)
Great recipe! You can have crispy and saucy at the same time. Just don't DROWN everything in sauce. When I make Eggplant Parmigiano, the crust is nice and crunchy because I use both panko and home made bread crumbs. But the topping is the key. Just a few tablespoons of sauce and a sprinkle of cheese and fresh basil keeps the eggplant shining through nice and crispy. Same goes for Chicken Parmigiano.
Michael (White Plains, NY)
So, you "can’t stand when people squeeze lemon over my fried calamari or schnitzel," yet call for squeezing lemon over your crisp meatballs. Are you trying to have it both ways?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
"I will forever favor crispy over saucy" -- Applause, Present arms!, 21-gun salute. Thank your for your authoritative endorsement of crispiness. But I am not in agreement with you about the lemon juice on squid rings: I find that lemon juice adds to the taste of almost all sea priducts, perhaps with the exception of cooked lobster flesh and scallops.
Denis Pelletier (Montreal)
A worry: The 12 to 15 minutes the meatballs wait while the eggplant and chick peas are cooked mean that the meatballs will have lost much crispiness at plating time. That is ALWAYS a problem when a crispy item must wait for other elements of the dish to cook (even if kept in a warm oven). Crispiness resulting from cooking is quite ephemeral. Perhaps undercooking the meatballs a bit and keeping them in a hot oven might work.