My husband and I loved Siracusa a few years ago and hope to return. One thing though: if you are driving, be careful to not take your car through the historic district of Ortygia--it's restricted and they use cameras to catch violators--though there is no notice of violation--and they will catch up with you up to a year later
14
Two delightful weeks wandering Sicily, no reservations, true meandering. My Mount Etna guide recommended Ortigia and it’s a truly magical place. Endless little alleyways to explore, incredible history, great open-air market, fabulous food, and some incredible sunsets over the Ionian Sea. Memorable beyond words.
16
We loved Siracusa when we visited in March 2015. In that off season before Easter, we found that many businesses and sights are closed or have very limited hours. In addition, here and elsewhere in Sicily, they do not always post their low season info on their websites. Make restaurant reservations early: we walked into a recommended restaurant at 7 pm. It was empty but all tables were reserved. The locals don’t dine until about 8pm
8
Happy to see this.
Syracuse is a great destination, Ortygia is a gem. History, beautiful location, and incredible food!
5
I think one of the most fascinating and wonderful places in Siracusa is the cathedral in the Piazza del Duomo. Seeing the HUGE columns from an ancient temple reused where they stood as the bones of the cathedral was just incredible. In a land repeatedly devastated by cataclysmic earthquakes, the columns have never suffered damage. One of the highlights in all of Sicily, which has so many unforgettable sights.
19
I spent three wonderful springs in Ortigia, Siracusa (2006-07-08). I was there with University of California, Davis students attending classes (language, art, culture) at the Mediterranean Center (MCAS) and visiting that city and other important sites throughout Sicily. Siracusa is fascinating, its people are welcoming, and Ortigia is magic. The whole experience was life transforming for all of us. Viva Santa Lucia!
11
Early October is a wonderful time to visit Sicily. The weather is cooler and the tourist crowds vanish. The food and hospitality of the Sicilian people remain. Swimming in the Med is wonderful!
7
Oh, the memories of time spent on Ortigia...
That sea urchin risotto eaten in an underground rock vault restaurant.
The jumble of architecture from way back, built one layer on another.
The light reflected off the sea onto the ceiling.
The aperitif on the piazza.
Ortigia is perfect.
11
Oh, an excellent article. My wife and I rented an apartment and we lived there for 2 months (December 2018 - February 2019) - then, in Catania in March 2019.
After reading Seth Sherwood's article, now, we want to go back to beautiful Siracusa (Syracuse) for another 2 months this winter, so we can escape Manhattan's freezing winter months, ice, snow, freezing rain & cold winds.
12
Siracusa can be a lovely day trip from Catania, about an hour away. Also, amid all the other civilizations that have contributed to Sicily, there are also traces of Sicily's Jewish past, including a mikveh (ritual bath) next to St. Filippo Apostolo on Ortygia. This may be the oldest such structure in all of Europe. The Jews were expelled during the Spanish Inquisition, when Sicily was part of the Kingdom of Spain, but this important remnant remains.
24
Very good article on this jewel on the Ionian coast of Sicily. However, I wish it mentioned that Syracuse is also home to Nunzio Zocco, the last bespoke tailor working in a city that used to have hundreds in its heyday.
Zocco is part of the larger world of Sicilian tailoring which I discovered and wrote about several years ago. With a little bit of luck and time (at least a week or so), you might be able to have a bespoke jacket made during your visit to Sicily.
13
Not mentioned in this pleasant account of Syracusa's many attractions is Fratelli Burgio, a famous grocery/deli at the North end of the Old Ortigio Market. With a cheerfully chaotic menu of local charcuterie, salads, ceviches, pastas, wines, cheeses, oils, spices, packaged and baked goods, it is a brunch/lunch magnet for an international and local mob of shoppers, browsers, taste makers and seekers, sharing laughter and Dionysian delights around umbrella shaded sidewalk tables.
10
Brought back happy memories. We traveled through Sicily a few years ago and found Syracuse one of our best visits. The history fantastic, people are warm and welcoming and the food outstanding.
Thanks for the memories.
6
Delicious fresh tuna sauteed with vinegar and raisins comes to mind.
6
@Alexia Fresh tuna sauteed? Noooooohhhh!
Sashimi! Fresh tuna is best served in Sashimi!
We had a wonderful leisurely lunch in Syracuse.
Wonderful memories including maniac and chaotic driving!
Sicilia's pizza is the best!
1
Recommended reading: "The Divine Spark of Syracuse" by Ingrid Rowland.
7
Definitely worth a visit. Just one thing: if you can, avoid the hot summer months of July and August. The heat will take away much of the fun a visit to this glorious place has in store.
6
I spent a couple of weeks in Sicily last summer, and some of that time in Syracuse. I loved it. Also, rest assured that you can visit Syracuse and enjoy it for well less than half the cost indicated by this Times article. As with so many Times travel articles, it seems to have been written for people with quite a bit of money to spend. That's not me. And it wasn't an issue to spend much. much less and have a great time in this spectacular old city. Enjoy!
39
I was lucky enough to spend four wonderful days in Siracusa earlier this year with my family. All of us absolutely loved it.
2
Please remember Syracuse's most famous scientist Archimedes, see https://www.britannica.com/biography/Archimedes
15
Oh dear, a guide for more tourists in one of my favorite cities.
6
Molto bella!
3
How lovely. I want to go!
1
The choice of photographs to accompany this article was rather unfortunate.
5
Siracusa.
3
For more clarity: the "Annunciation" by Antonello da Messina in Syracuse is not the better known "Annunciation" by him which has its home in Palermo, and is often called "The Palermo Annunciation."
Recommended reading: Ingrid Rowland's "The Divine Spark of Syracuse" published this year.
9
I am afraid that this author’s extremely limited knowledge, about the art to be found in Italy, about Sicilian food, etc., etc., is really what shines in this review, “madonnas and fried critters,” indeed.
9