A Norwegian Valley Where the Old Ways Beckon

Jul 24, 2019 · 32 comments
Tore (Norway)
This place and other beautiful areas in Norway is now getting massively destructed by building of windturbines. You should all visit Norway before its completely ruined. Tore.
Kathleen Parr (Portland, Maine)
I returned from the area a week ago. It is indeed beautiful, although we just passed through on the drive from Kristiansand where we were staying on our way to Øygardstøl for the hike up to Kjeragbolten. We chose that route because we knew it was the most scenic. Would love to go back and explore more. We started the trip with the train from Oslo to Bergen, and then drove down the coast to Kristiansand via ferries and Stavanger, part of the route described in the Frugal Traveler's recent Vestlandet article. Norway is gorgeous, and expensive, and worth it. The weather was maybe too fantastic, as it was during the European heat wave, for max 80s in Norway (with no AC in Bergen). We upgraded to a Tesla, so no gas expense. There are so many (tax-incentivized) e-cars in Norway that Tesla charging stations are everywhere, even tucked away in the Setesdal. Kristiansand and the southern coastal sailing scene worth an article, possibly akin to sailing the coast of Maine. Lovely, "koselig," off the international tour group beaten path. Mostly Norwegian families on vacation.
Lynn Yarris (California)
Beautifully written story about a fascinating village in Norway where time hasn't exactly stood still but is definitely dawdling.
Kaare Finbak (Norway)
This valley may soon be completely surrounded by wind power plants 250 meters high. In the neighbouring areas large wind power plants already are being set up. They will be visible over distances up to 60-70 kilometers. The mountains in this picture the Norwegian authorities want new wind power plants built. If they get it the way they and foreign investors want to see the mountains used, this scenery soon will be history. Check this site for more information. Unfortunatelly, it is not available in English: https://www.nve.no/nasjonal-ramme-for-vindkraft/?ref=mainmenu
DF (East)
I follow Norway on Instagram simply because the country is absolute eye candy - it just makes me feel happy and peaceful to see photos of this magnificent country. I have yet to visit but I certainly intend to, and soon.
Dylan Reece (Austin)
I’m sorry I can never go to a place like this after Midsommar.
Pelasgus (Earth)
I want authenticity, where are the Viking berserkers?
NYer (NYC)
Fascinating piece, full of information and also particularly nice writing. Thanks! But I cringed when I read the part about the "video diorama" in an "authentic" old building. (see below) Is that sort of thing really necessary, especially in a place dedicated to preserving age-old "unique traditions"? Personally, I find those newfangled on-site "interpretation" features to be both annoying intrusions into the quiet beauty and appreciation of a site like this and also usually more or less falsely vanilla, "edutainment" aspects, which all blend together into very very similar experiences. Have seen something happen at a number of sites we've revisited later on, and the change is never for the better, IMHO. Technology and multi-media are *great* for spreading the word online, etc, but please leave the sites and traditions themselves alone. PS. The phrase "costumed locals" also seems inappropriate to me. "Locals" is often a term of mild disparagement or condescension, and "costumed locals" singling and dancing around on a large video screen seems weirdly Disneyesque and really out of place. "... a tour of a small museum called Sylvartun ... in an old sod-roofed log building once ... When you enter, there’s a life-size video diorama in which costumed locals sing stevs back and forth and play fiddle music."
Stephen Harris (New Haven)
Local people wearing traditional costumes are “costumed locals”. It’s not disparaging. It’s accurate.
KutiePetutie (San Francisco)
For the last 3 years my husband and myself have attempted to schedule a Norwegian trip. I get all the books lined up and start checking airfares and the like and give up because logistically it seems problematic with a rental car, lodging, boats, etc. This article has been helpful. Next year may try again, lol.
Jake (Texas)
What is problematic ?
Dag (Kristiansand, Norway)
@KutiePetutie It's not problematic. Just expensive :)
Kathryn (California)
This is a fascinating glimpse of a rich and (nearly) hidden culture. So well written, too. I've taken notes for future travel... Thanks!
Seabiscute (MA)
This looks like an enchanting place to visit! But please, be more careful in your photo captions -- you CANNOT say " the rich tradition of fiddle music, song, dance and costume ARE curiously distinct..."
Stephen Harris (New Haven)
But if they are distinct they are also a curiosity. Therefore, curiously distinct, no?
DF (East)
IS. That’s right. Not ARE. The tradition IS.
Kjirsten Winters (Tacoma WA)
I’m surprised you did not include photos of the amazing textiles, traditional dress and handiwork of the region. Its absolutely stunning and unique to the area.
AS (Astoria, NY)
@Kjirsten Winters As a knitter, I was hoping to catch a few glimpses of the Setesdal sweater pattern!
Brandon (Atlanta)
Nice photos of things, and gripping descriptions of people, but where are the pictures of the people who make this story important?
Bram De Roy (Norway)
Very nice articles and pictures, but unfortunately they are all from the southern part of this remarkable country. Hereby I urge you to visit the north. Both during summer and winter and you will discover that ‘Oh my god’ is as legitimate as in the south:-)
John (Pittsburgh/Cologne)
@Bram De Roy Can you give any advice on a northern destination that: 1. Is on a fjord 2. Not overrun by tourists, but has at least a moderate tourist infrastructure (i.e. lodging, a few restaurants, kayak/bike rental) 3. Surrounded by mountains (not just rolling hills) 4. Is reasonably road accessible Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Lars (Kristiansand)
@John Basically - Just google "Lofoten islands". Lofoten got more or less everything you ask for, but unfortunately also the "overrun by tourists" part to some extent. Flying in from abroad most people choose Oslo as main airport. From Oslo there's a less than 90 min flight to Bodø where you can get a rental car, you can catch the ferry over the "Vestfjord"(3 hr journey) to Moskenes(almost as far west you get) in Lofoten. That's how to get there, but google is our friend and likes to be used. ;) Search words - Å. Reine, Ramberg, Lofotr vikingmuseum, Henningsvær, Svolvær. Hope you find this helpful, John. :)
Gary (Oslo)
A very thorough and well-written piece. It's worth adding that there is a car ferry connection to Denmark from Kristiansand for those who might want to add on a trip from there. Another attraction is an 8 km long preserved steam railway trip though the beautiful landscape between Kristiansand and Byglandsfjord.
Ryan (Bingham)
Don't open up your valley. Protect it at all costs!
Herb S (Hobart)
Interesting article and good photos. Agree with Kate. Include a map. Took me a while, but finally managed adding a couple of the town names to google map to locate.
Eric Watness (Seattle)
I am a 3rd generation away from my Setesdal ancestors who emigrated to the US in the 1860s. My great grand father, Rev. Bjug A Harstad, founded Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma. I’ve been back to Valle twice but yearn for more. Thank you for this excellent piece about history, culture and contemporary relevance of the valley. You lived my dream of hearing fine music from the region hidden from the rest of the world.
AK (Tulsa)
@Eric Watness PLU in Tacoma. Yeah! Go Lutes!
JHM (UK)
I agree Kate, where is a map? Otherwise the photos show the beauty of Norway...lush and untouched.
Kate (Vermont)
Wonderful photos but please add a map.
Henning B. Andersen (Roskilde, Denmark)
Stan (Ct)
@Kate. It’s most likely West of Kristiansand
NYer (NYC)
@Henning B. Andersen Thanks! I had the same question.