I would also think that the price of a pint of beer ( $12 in a dive bar) is also because Norway is currently the richest country in the World, more so than Dubai.
Norway's wealth comes from oil and with a population of approximately only 5 1/2 million people, the wealth is shared out.
Having said all that, I would still love to visit Norway.
3
I drove across the high plateau from Oslo to Stavagner in 1969. Even without Norway's famous fjords, it was full of "Oh, my God" moments. Most vivid in my memory was the descent from the plateau after dark - we stayed at a B and B at the foot of the plateau. When we awoke the next morning, we saw the plateau rising above the nearby meadows in full flower. I don't have a photo, but the image is seared into my brain.
Had we not been in an auto accident and had to remain in Stavagner while I healed, we would have driven up the coast to Trondheim.
1
I would dearly love to explore Norway’s natural wonders, but I fear it cannot be truly appreciated by someone with a failing heart who is lassoed to cars, easy ground and available parking.
Maybe in the next life.
1
Norway has many virtues. The weather normally isn't one of them. Though only a night on the ferry away from my adopted home, it makes Schleswig-Holstein seem positively subtropical by comparison. Plus the cost of alcohol makes it a great place for an impromptu cure. Norway's a lot more expensive than other destinations in Europe, but I wonder how prices stack up compared to New York? I'll bet a night on the town in Oslo or Bergen might seem cheap compared to Manhattan.
4
I am in love with Norway's Nature as well.
I was on a road trip at the end of May in Norway with my friends.
We were distracted all the time by Norway's Nature, and we just wish we'd had more time.
Although I have been home for a week I haven't stop thinking of it.
If I have a chance to visit Norway again, I'll rent a camper and play it by ear!
Thank you for this! I am in Norway at the moment, and just completed a 5 day solo road, hiking, avoid-tourists-as-much-as-possible-trip, on a slightly different route of the Western Fjord region. The itinerary was packed--could've spent days or weeks in any one place--but I did it all on one tank of gas! The scenery is spectacular and immensely varied...round a corner, and you are in an utterly new landscape...temperature rises, falls (bring layers!). My route: Oslo to Jotunheimen National Park to Geiranger Fjord to Jostedalsbreen Glacier to Fjaerland to Flam to Stalheim to Bergen. One of the highlights was missing the bookfair in Fjaerland on a rainy cold day and having a piece of the fjord to myself for just one beautiful hour. I've been to Alaska; I've been to the Alps; I've been to Machu Picchu. And Norway still knocked my socks off.
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Intermittent Fasting Made My Life Easier, and Happier! Good for you! Keep at it!
2
Noway is th emote beautiful country I have been to. Countless waterfalls at every turn( I did a long trip from Oslo to Nesna above the Arctic circle).
Although the food is nothing special, the people are kind, educated and gracious.Everyone speaks perfect English( better than quite a few Americans).
The natural beauty is stunning , and the people of the country cherish the. No strip mining or fracking will be tolerated here.
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@Donald The food is nothing special?
You must have missed the hundreds of types of cheese, butter, excellent breads, pickles, flatbreads, Freia chocolate, charcuterie, smoked pork, and reindeer. Oh, yeah, and the pristine fish and shellfish.
4
We toured Scandinavia and Finland, up. We drove from Copenhagen to the Nordkapp and then down the Norwegian coast in 2013 (5 weeks in a small camper). We’ve been planning to return to SW Norway ever since. The countryside is magnificent, the air pristine when you get away from the cruise-ship-choked cultural heritage sites. The beauty and peaceful atmosphere sometimes drove tears to my eyes.
That said, I would like to discourage anyone else from going.
....That’s sort of a joke....but not really.
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Alaska is better. So are BC, Alberta, Yukon, Montana, parts of Washington and Wyoming. Don't waste time and money on Norway if you want big nature.
3
@vbering
Montana? Wyoming? Totally different terrain.
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@vbering I totally agree. Don't burn fossil fuels if you can visit the natural wonders geographically closer.
3
@vbering, says the cynic who, apparently, has not seen the depth and breadth of Norge. BC, Alberta, Yukon, et al, are all beautiful, but Norge is spectacular. There is nothing like it in North America.
2
I look forward to reading these essays every Wednesday. One lingering question is about the planning for the trips. Is it all done ahead of time? By whom? Does the author devise the itineraries himself? When would he have time?
Yes, I know that I have exceeded my one question!
9
Loved the article. I wish the article would include a map of the writer's driving route. It would help in planning my next trip. I just got back from Lofoten, Norway. It's the most beautiful country I've ever visited.
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@Anna
There is a map, about 2/3rds of the way down the page.
@Anna My son and I touring Norway in February next year. Going up to the top above the arctic circle to view the northern lights. Very excited!
@Anna, I agree about Lofoten! I visited on a whim a few years ago and it absolutely floored me with its grandeur. I have traveled quite a bit of Norway - from Oslo to Bergen to Lofoten and all the way up to Spitsbergen, and I have to say that there is just something special about Lofoten that is hard to put in words. It haunts you long after you've left.
2
Rather than rely on gas-station hot dogs (yuck!) I'd recommend buying groceries (cheese, bread and yogurt are all delicious and cheap) and make your own meals.
20
A visit to Bergen, the trip there and back, with its majestic views and sites should also include a visit to its pioneering hostel and treatment center for lepers which represents a sense of menschlichkeit to the stigmatized
"other," as well as a reminder about individuals risking health and career to challenge harmful health myths and the everpresent empowered barriers to change. The staff, last week, were informative and very friendly.
4
Norway, when I was there a while ago, was a land of smokers--EVERYWHERE, and especially in restaurants and bars!! Has that changed or did you decline to note the downside of a Nordic trip?
@annabelle Oh now this has changed a LOT! A few years ago, very strict anti-smoking laws have been put in practice, now it is forbidden to smoke in most places. Fewer and fewer people smoke, you are even surprised when you actually smell it, so rare it is!
11
@annabelle Very strict smoking laws were put into use in the 90`s or early 00`s. You cannot smoke in restaurants, all public buildings, and so on. It is actually quite rare to see anyone smoking now. I actually think, "huh, thats odd, a smoker", when I see one.
3
@annabell That is a long time ago. Smoking is strongly reduced. Smoking are forbidden many places! Not an issue at all, anywhere, any longer.
2
Nice article about the second nicest part of Vestlandet. If you want to se the most spectacular part you have to go to More & Romsdal.
https://www.visitmr.com
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@Sindre
I second that :-D
Just google "Ørsta" and "Norangsdalen"
Great article. But I can’t help but think of the CO2 output from all your travel.
5
I live in a town that fancies itself as the "south Hamptons" and was at the picture framing shop today; it has affluent customers. Some, at least, must love exuberant frame moldings. So much for Norwegian understatement. Scandinavia beckons. With Norwegian Airlines serving Orlando, I'm remiss in not having already at least gone to Oslo. Also remiss in not going back to Wyoming, where I had an outdoor job for seven years.
1
Thank you Sebastian! Time is always too limited in beautiful places. Just an add-on for readers: if you have time while in Stavanger, set aside a few hours to hike to Pulpit Rock. You can catch a ferry from Stavanger, then a bus to the starting point. It's a relatively easy hike to a flat-top cliff that stands about 600 meters above a fjord. It's breathtaking and worth every step. Also, while in Odda, consider a hike to Trolltunga. It's a more strenuous hike and will require proper gear and planning, but, again, worth it. Thanks again for sharing the details of your trip!
11
A wonderful, evocative piece on the benefits of travelling open to discovery. Not to be a downer, but gas station hot dogs may be a bargain but the health problems associated with them are not.
2
Lovely article. I really enjoyed it. I've been to Bergen before and Oslo but I've dreamed of doing a road trip along the coast. Thanks for more inspiration!
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We are going to Oslo and Bergen in three weeks! Excited!! Now that I’ve read this article, I wonder if we should rent a car and go to roads less travelled. But I get jittery about the heart-pounding precarious driving. Can anyone here suggest a beginner scenic route from Bergen to the surroundings, one without steep inclinations? Is that easy to spot on a map? Thanks!
@Beatrix Depending on how long you'd like to spend, a drive to Voss, Gudvangen and Undredal follow good roads, and the return trip should take around 5h. If you want to spend a full day, go on to Lærdal, get the ferry across the Sognefjord and follow national route 5 to Skei in Jølster, before looping back to Bergen on the E39, crossing the Sognefjord again further west. The whole trip should take about 10h of driving.
Due to Norwegian ancestry from both the far north and the southwest & south central, I've taken my family there to look at the places of origin of my great grandparents emigration.
It is spectacular country.
But I wonder why the one of the bargain (and often beautifully located) ways to spend the night is not mentioned (maybe due to traveling solo). 'Hytte' is Norwegian for hut or cabin and there is a network of them through much of the country. Very inexpensive and usually with a stove and bunk beds and often a fridge. You bring your own sheets of sleeping bags/linen for the bunkbeds (usually 6 beds) which you can buy in country and on leaving you clean the hytte for the next visitor. Bathrooms are usually in another building.
Go to a grocery and get mini-shrimp mostly from Iceland and some veggies and one can make a nice meal for 1/10 the cost of most restaurants.
Many are located in valleys and highlands or even at the south coast and put one in touch more closely with the outside world of nature. A few (around cities like Bergen) may be full of East Europeans and Russians, but they usually know some English so one can even socialize a bit if so inclined in these wonderful places.
p.s. Sweden also has a similar system of inexpensive cabins, although the scenery is not so spectacular.
16
@charlie rock Yes, and there are also similar much less expensive (and less fancy) places to stay in some towns such as Beitostolen (very near the biggest mountains), places which host athletic events (WorldCup nordic skiing almost every November). I think these places are used by the national teams during the race week.
2
I have been there. Now I want to return. Wouldn't it be lovely to own a summer house in Norway?
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@Old Hominid
Lots of middle class Norwegians do. Swedes, too. But, like free health care, education, 4 weeks paid vacation by law, a balanced national budget (actually surpluses) it is nothing Americans really want. Too socialist.
32
So surprised by all the concerns wrt ecological footprints being expressed during this 52 Places agenda. Have you never traveled? It seems to me there is little extravagance. I loved the previous comment of the value of "bridging cultural divides" and agree that Sebastian's commentary provides insights into particular challenges for each destination. True, he like his predecessor, is relaying a personal experience, but what riches and original adventures he gives us!!! I've forwarded many of these commentaries to friends with a "hey, what do you say, shall we go there, too?" And that has much more to do with these travelogues than with the mere naming of the place.
8
Commenting of the carbon footprint of the writer as if it his personal footprint is misleading (and a little disingenuous). Should we complain to the factory worker making cars all day long about their carbon footprint as if the materials and energy used are his individual contribution? The author is likewise providing a product that thousands of consumer's "use" as they read the articles.
23
So how do I get your job ?
11
The online news service Vox Media has an interesting report about electric cars in Norway.
At about 0:32 in their video report the commentator, Johnny Harris, points to a car on the road and says: "Here comes another one [Tesla] up the road." At that point we see a 'Norweigian Tesla', but are surprised to find that it has a very loud engine. Certainly, the Tesla's in Norway don't seem to use the same quiet electric motor as Teslas do in the United States.
Cite:
Vox Media. Why Norway is full of Teslas 09 JUN 2017
https://youtu.be/zSjYra7cYqY
The "Norwegian" Tesla does have the exact same motor as the American. The sound of an engine is NOT from the Model S in the picture frame.
2
@W
I was confused also, but as stated in one of the comments of the video, the sound didn't come from the Tesla:
"I thought the same thing at first, but it wasn’t the Tesla that made that sound...it was the yellow Camaro sitting at the intersection that took off when the light turned green"
I can assure you that "our" Teslas are silent as well :-)
8
Another cool place publicized, another cool place down the tubes. Way to go, Sebastian!
2
Ugh. Bland writing, way too much about himself. I can't get through these pieces and felt the same about the previous 52 Places writer.
Not interested in whether you're swearing or talking out loud. Not interested in generalizations. I care about discrete moments, real people, etc., and find this series poorly envisioned. (Maybe it's just too much travel, too fast.) Of course, readers relate if they've been to a certain spot or dreamed of it but if I want a memorable read I won't find it here.
8
@susan, I wonder why you keep reading these pieces then?
9
Wow, multiple comments giving grief here about the writer's ecological footprint. We all produce carbon emissions, even the commenters. What you do in your day to day life is immensely more impactful than traveling on occasion. Travel also helps bridge cultural divides and more of it would be beneficial for that segment of the populace which is frightened of anything foreign. Lastly, this is a travel article. If you are going to be a scold about travel, why are you even reading it?
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@Logic Science and Truth
If people worry about their ecological footprint, they have three chances every day to do something about it: do not eat meat.
There you go: immediate, personal, doable, and sustainable action.
Start ASAP, you will be healthier too!
12
What about goat?
The irony of the NYT running this article on the same day as this one “If Seeing the World Helps Ruin It, Should We Stay Home?” is not lost on me.
14
Norway is expensive, and I am a cheapskate. But it was mind-blowing. We coped with the kroner situation by taking trains and staying in Airbnbs with kitchens. We hardly ever ate out--the grocery stores have oodles of beautiful, high-quality provisions. I gorged on smoked salmon and my husband had his daily herring fix.
The physical beauty of Norway can't be overstated. We started in Oslo because I've wanted to visit the Vigelandsparken since my 20s. These artworks never travel, they must be viewed in situ, or in photos. They are epic, and can move anyone, regardless of how much they enjoy art generally. See this place! Oslo is so enjoyable and easy to navigate. The trolleys are designed to accommodate bikes and strollers and families traveling. The city is beautiful and deeply humane. Bikes everywhere, like in Denmark. Built for human life, kept at a reasonable scale.
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@Elena
We traveled in Norway the same way, airbnb in Bergen and then Oslo. We dined from the grocery stores as well. LOVED Norway....beautiful country, beautiful art(I could not believe I had never heard of Vigeland)museums and outside sculptures and many wonderful people we met. Wish we could return someday!
Bergen is a wonderful city and the Norwegians I met during numerous visits were warm and welcoming. It is true however that prices and especially VAT are eye popping, even for someone who lives in Switzerland. One of these days I hope to visit Spitsbergen to see the Northern Lights.
8
@Paco varela
If your main objective is the northern lights, northern Norway (e.g. Tromsø) is a better spot for the magnetic fields to enter the athmosphere at the right angle and intencity. Svalbard has however plenty of other attractions.
1
Glad you enjoyed our city. Welcome back anytime! May is the best time to visit. The 17th of May, our Constitution Day, is a must to experience.
24
Did I overlook the exact route that you traveled? If not, I think including it would have been helpful.
Have you ever commented on whether you ever get lonely when you travel alone and, if so, how you deal with that?
1
Norway is one place that really needs to be experience by car. While the cities like Oslo and Bergen are interesting, the real beauty of the place is in the countryside between the towns.
5
@John. I traveled on their wonderful rail system. It is extremely discouraging to see how good rail travel can be- efficient, pleasant, ( relatively) affordable, then come home to the land of interstates.
10
@Maggie, it really is shocking to go from fast, cheap, quiet, timely trains in Europe to the chronically late, dirty, uncomfortable, expensive Amtrak trains. Americans have pioneered in so many areas but failed so miserably when it comes to transportation.
Beautiful photos and great article.
10
Just think, if the GOP allowed people to make a living wage, a lot more people could visit beautiful places like this.
19
@Chicago Guy $15 bucks an hour is not going to produce an increase in international travel. Cheap shot.
1
@Mickey -- that's because $15 an hour isn't a living wage.
8
More Things to Know (that were omitted): don't let the sunny skies in the pictures and travel brochures fool you. It can rain *a ton* in this area of Norway, with lots of fog and clouds. The drives and scenery *can* be incredibly beautiful, but don't count on actually seeing a quarter of what's out there, and some days you may not see anything at all. Most of the Fjords we visited were shrouded in fog, and it poured almost the entire week-plus we were there. Anyone who has decent weather on a Norway vacation should thank their lucky stars.
3
@Buck Thorn
Even or perhaps especially in clouds, the western coast of Norway is beautiful.
8
@Buck Thorn I realized we were fortunate last year in late May in cruising from Bergen up to Svalbard (Spitzbergen), then 5 days near Oslo: it was wall-to-wall sunshine the entire time. That was the beginning of a very dry summer in much of Europe, but cannot be counted on, as you say. It was even dry in Iceland before and after.
1
Being a Norwegian it was intresting reading about your wisit in our country. Your hotspots is good picks and described in a relevant manner. Take care driving our narrow roads. It`s an good advice add som extra days for your stay as mentioned, april, may and september is also good time for visit Vestlandet. Welcome!
35
@Arne W When we were going to go up to Nordcapp way back in 1975, our friend Kjell from Asker advised: "There are only two kinds of drivers in Norway: good ones and dead ones!"
7
Thanks for this.
My wife and I recently did a similar itinerary last fall.
Bergen was awesome - 3 days with no Rain.
The Viking Museum must be brand new.
Were you at the Stave Church just up the road/hill from Gudvangen?
11
"the infrastructure is intentionally unobtrusive, with narrow roads and low speed limits clearly showing that the priority is on what’s already there, not what can be built."
Well said! I fell in love with this exact aspect of Norwegians, which I also encountered in Sweden. You are on an amazing journey. Please tell more about the people you encounter in these places too. I found in Norway the people are intentionally unobtrusive as well! So much so that it is culturally frowned upon to disturb a neighbor working outside with a "good morning", or whatever. Lots of emphasis on one's personal journey/labors helped me understand what I saw Norway to be: stolid, joyful and proud.
24
@timuqua
The infrastructure is also incredibly well maintained. Never saw a road in bad disrepair. The average road in Colorado is several magnitudes worse than the worst side road I can remember. But then, Norway is socialist and, according to Conservatives, failing miserably.
11
With my bias of mountain beauty, growing up in Alberta, Canada, I was astounded at the jaw-dropping landscape in Norway. Yes, it was an expensive place to travel, but worth it for the experiences. It is much more beautiful that Banff and Lake Louise. Sorry.
While there, I would also recommend spending time around Lom (the bakery!) and visiting at least one stave church. Having a car made it much easier to get off the beaten path.
29
@YReader, wow, more beautiful than Banff or Lake Louise?? So far, Banff and Lake Louise are the most beautiful, indescribable places I've ever seen, so now I'm REALLY salivating to see Norway!! :)
1
Thanks for this awesome article!
Another reason Norway is expensive, relative to other European Countries - their economy is fueled by oil.
6
@Jake No, it's their huge investment fund, not touched except for the 'interest', but maintained for future generations, which is funded by oil. Quite a contrast with Texas, Alberta, Nigeria, etc., isn't it?
And Sweden, Finland, Denmark, Iceland and Switzerland, all without oil, are all very nearly as expensive or more so, and are almost as enlightened in terms of income inequality, education, female empowerment, etc.
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@Jake
Norway makes sure to invest their oil wealth outside of Norway. This keeps the value of the Krone, compared to other currencies reasonable.
In Canada, Alberta spent their oil revenue as fast as it came in, politicians it to buy votes, and eventually driving up the value of the Canadian dollar. This ensured that anything exported from Canada was expensive, and did great damage to Canadian manufacturing.
13
@Jake Actually, no. Only 4 per cent of the dividends (not the capital) of our oil fund is used in the national budget. But cheer up, maybe you guys in Texas will find some oil of your own soon!
24
don't mean to harsh, but: it would be helpful for the NY Times to include the stop by stop total of carbon emissions this stunt is racking up. and the reporter could also take his interests off lager and lovely vistas to record any local responses to climate change and climate effects already apparent in commerce or weather.
this series also sets the example that long flights for short visits is the "way to travel." before i swore off jet travel entirely due to climate change, my wife and i would fly to a venue like london, berlin or venice and rent an apartment there for six weeks. we saw a lot, and we experienced in depth.
also: don't use "navigation apps." they're just tracking software in disguise.
19
@drollere
It's travel writing. For that you need to travel.
If you're too concerned with the environmental impact of one guy moving fast so he can write about a huge variety of destinations or too paranoid to use Google Maps, there's plenty of other sources for that information. Try studies on air travel and the conspiracy theory corner of YouTube. The New York Times will continue using their Travel section to report on travel.
44
Sheesh! Lighten up, buddy!
24
@drollere —you don’t mean to be harsh, but did you mean to be self-righteous?
29
Thanks for the tips, Sebastian! I can’t wait to go!
7
Loved the article— but need more pictures!
19
@No One - I suggest following Sebastian's Instagram account (sebmodak). He posts tons of pictures and stories.
8
I was lucky enough to go to school with someone from Risør, a small, scenic coastal town a few hours south of Oslo. When I visited (free board, who could say no?) we committed to an all day drive to Odda, just beyond Låtefossen, but quickly found ourselves simply unable to stop driving further into the growing fjords. Our round trip was about 18 hours, we felt slap happy by the end and had many of the mentioned gas station hot dogs (as well as those Brazilian iced coffees that seem more ubiquitous than water bottles).
I have never been so blown away in my life. I'll never forget the feeling of coming out of a 10km tunnel to see fields of ice and snow when it was sill 70 degrees (20 centigrade). It looked like a rendered world that never stopped giving beautiful sight after beautiful village.
34
I'm not sure what it is about Sebastian's writing, but I find reading his essay as soon as I find it's there each week to be addictive. Perhaps it's the appeal of his off the beaten track choices. Thanks for another wonderful read and a great way to start the day.
19
Hey there I wonder what is your ecological footprint for this trip?
10
Nothing to worry about. The author got all of the Democrats running for President to turn off the air conditioning at their offices and homes. That will offset his climate harming ways.
1
@Robert Bosch
And Robert and Alexander have just promised to give up breathing, as it emits carbon dioxide!
10