A Day in Houston: 3 Meals, 3 Cultures, One City

Feb 26, 2019 · 44 comments
Pat M. (Texas)
As a native Houstonian I like to say that Houston is a nice place to live but you wouldn't want to visit here. The cost of living is low and it really is easy to get around in (maybe other than rush hour) if you have a car. And if you do find yourself here for business or some other event, you will enjoy your time even though there are not beautiful views as there are in other cities. Yes, it is hot and humid in the summer, but other times of the year the weather if very pleasant for outdoor activities. Also, people are often surprised at how green and lush the city is.
Alex (Houston, TX)
Having moved here a few years ago and am moving soon away, the author did get many aspects of Houston right. The culinary scene, particularly in regards to the selection, is incredible. Between Vietnamese (don't get me started on its American hybrid, Viet Cajun), Chinese, Korean, Iranian, Lebanese, Ethiopian, Afghani, Indian, etc, the options and quality are unparalleled compared to most of the country. That being said, unless one lives inside " the Loop" or in one of the designer suburbs (I don't), Houston desperately lacks in nearly every category sans gastronomy. The extreme driving commutes risk life and limb on dilapidated streets that rival third world countries. The air is permeated by industrial and automobile emissions. Sorely lacking preserved green space and natural beauty, the few parks (e.g. Memorial, Terry Hershey, George Bush) are overrun with people when the weather cooperates. Oddly I find an inordinate number of its citizens lack any worldly curiously or creative zeal, and in its place is a money hungry drive. The prices though cheaper than coastal cities are relatively high. Finally, with no vision in its design, the vast majority of the city lacks aesthetics and simple quality of life appeals. For those who wind up visiting here, absolutely try the delicious food. Enjoy the Rodeo, Museum of Fine Arts, "Bingo in the Heights", Karbach Brewery, maybe even drive down and see NASA. That being said, be glad your trip to Houston has an end.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Judging by this very informative article, Houston has little to lose by comparison to the varied ethno-regional eateries of New York.
Cars R (Coffins)
I completely agree about the diversity. I was blown away by a recent visit. As well as with the kindness of the city. I had a great evening at The Conservatory. But, the car issue is almost prohibitively expensive and exhausting. An Uber was 30 dollars from the airport, and then 80 dollars for a return. The city needs to adapt to less fossil fuels.
Exile In (Bible Belt)
Thanks for highlighting a little of Houston's offerings. Next time stay at the Hotel Zaza in the Museum District. You can walk to the beautiful oak tree-lined campus of Rice and see some natural beauty. I'm surprised you passed up a Chris Shepherd restaurant, Himalaya, and the Original Ninfa's on Navigation. Those three are very representative of the current state of Houston's restaurant scene. Shepherd loves his hometown and creates culture conscious cuisine that incorporates the booming Asian food culture as well as Houston's BBQ roots.
Texas Yardbird (Houston, Texas)
My siblings and in-laws are all native Houstonians. Between us all, cooking is something of a competitive sport. Bonus! If one works for an international company, the holiday potlucks can bring in family-road-tested dishes from around the world. That said, we are blessed to have such great restaurants all over town. A couple we know were moving back home to Houston after living abroad for several years. My spouse and I each drove station wagons at the time so we were well prepared to handle all the luggage. Got the last bag tetris'd in the back of the station wagon, closed the tailgate, looked at each other and said, 'Los Tios!' Sometimes, the old, favorite, Tex-Mex restaurants are simply the best.
carol goldstein (New York)
I wonder if Houston really is more diverse ethnically and linguistically than Queens, NY? I don't mind sharing at all but I have heard "most diverse" said of my home as well.
William Smith (United States)
@carol goldstein Every city says that they're "most diverse"
American (America)
Yes, it is widely known that Houston surpassed NYC as the most diverse city in the US a few years ago. Sorry.
God is Love (New York, NY)
@American As I have lived in Houston and NYC, I do agree that both are very diverse. But in Houston, you see that diversity from the air conditioned comfort of your car as you drive past thousands of strip malls filled with ethic restaurants. Here in New York, we live check by jowl with diversity, hard to escape it. Hearing, smelling and feeling it all with every step you take, and I wouldn't give up that wonderful intimacy even for a Luby's Cafeteria.
Dan (Houston, Texas)
If Tex-Mex is your craving, Houston is the place to be! It's everywhere you look, and definitely a comfort food for many of us Texans. While your enjoying yourself some tasty fajitas straight from the grill, the best queso one can find, and salsa like none other, with your chips, ask for a Shiner or if Margaritas are your thing, order one. The perfect evening out if you ask this native Texan! Ya'll come visit!
American (America)
Houston can not compare with San Antonio and Corpus Christi for Tex-Mex. I’m hungry for the food of my youth just writing this!
Working mom (San Diego)
Houston is the most underrated city in the country. A venture capitalist once told me that the 2 hardest cities in the country to get a great CEO to relocate to or from are Houston and Minneapolis-St. Paul. It's hard to get them there. But once there, they don't want to leave. I didn't bother learning how to cook until I relocated to SD. What a shock that was.
American (America)
I have to agree. Having lived in both Houston and San Diego, I have to say that Houston wins hands down in the cultural diversity and culinary departments.
Joshua Krause (Houston)
The climate is suffocating in the summer. The Gulf waters off Galveston Island are muddy brown, and yes, a quarter of every gallon of gasoline burned in this country is refined in Houston—you’re welcome, America. We choke so you can drag the kids to soccer practice. But this is the thing I love about Houston; it’s gritty, it’s a little dumpy, it’s a lot more cosmopolitan than people think, and it’s full of the raw grinding energy of humanity in all its colors and languages. It’s real and not for tourists and that’s okay.
Pierre D. Robinson, B.F., W.S. (Pensacola)
I hope there is more to Houston than just food. Might there have been mention of cultural opportunities? Or are there none?
Megan (Houston)
@Pierre D. Robinson, B.F., W.S. Houston has a world-class, Grammy-winning symphony, an award-winning opera company, a ballet company, and a resident acting company in the Alley Theatre. The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston has a large collection of Dutch masters, the Rothko Chapel is used for contemplation and lectures, and the Menil Collection is one of the largest privately-held collections open for view. There is something going on every weekend, whether it's a gallery opening, a reading, or a concert. There are rock, Tejano, jazz, and indie bands performing at clubs all over the city. So yes, there is a large and vibrant arts and cultural scene in Houston. Come check it out sometime!
Dragana (Houston)
@Pierre D. Robinson, B.F., W.S. Houston is home to a world class opera company, a world class ballet company and several smaller dance troupes, a world class symphony (with several smaller independent professional groups as well, including Mercury: the orchestra redefined, Texas Medical Center Orch., Houston Latin American Philharmonic), world class museums including The Menil Collection and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, and many fine galleries, and many theater companies and live music venues. Our architecture is superb, and of course we have NASA. Check it out here: https://www.visithoustontexas.com/
MMS (Houston, TX)
Houston is over 650 sq miles - this is a mere hint of what we have to offer. Restaurants, shopping, green space and AMAZING art and theatre. The diversity is great and the hospitality is palpable. Don't over think the heat - we know how to build with proper air conditioning.
Bess (Houston)
My biggest issue with this is it is the exact same perspective of a huge, diverse, sprawling city that we see all the time. Houston is a city with a thriving art scene with the Sawyer art markets, art shows and graffiti artists. It has fantastic parks and hidden spots that show more of what the city is like than our admittedly fantastic food.
kl (brooklyn)
Just want to say that I appreciate that you did not rent a car and hope that throughout your 52 Places journey you will consider options for travelers who don't drive (including public transit), both in places like Houston but also for excursions outside of urban areas
Nancy (Chicago)
Great article and quotes on diversity. I hope the good citizens of Houston will continue their efforts to vote for far more diverse and open representatives at all levels of their government. There are an awful lot of you, please protect what you've created.
William (Houston, Texas)
Don’t confuse Houston’s commitment to diversity with other parts of Texas.
Usok (Houston)
All three meals look good to me. Thanks to introducing them to me, a long time Houstonian. But I still like BBQ dishes the best. Besides Houston Rodeo is coming to town within a week or two. I will try to sample different style BBQ dishes and compare. It will be interesting.
Leslie (Prague)
I'm enjoying the trip so far. Good luck throughout the year.
Missy (Texas)
You have to peel the layers of Houston back like an onion. At first glance it is very humid, the traffic is terrible, and for what seems like 50 miles you can't tell the suburbs from the city itself. Once you start looking around , you are going to discover a very interesting, diverse city, it takes time. In fact don't stop there, you could spend a whole retirement going from city to city in Texas and never see the same thing twice.
Clem (Corvallis,OR)
For years the national media has always held Austin, to be the cradle of diversity and culture in TX -- and as one of it's premiere tourist sports -- with Houston largely in the background. I'm glad someone has noticed Houston!
Ben P (Austin)
For some reason, this sounds like a brag about what I ate on a business trip rather than an interesting traveler telling me about their trip. I miss last years 52 places traveler.
Kilgore.Trout (USA)
Houston is an awful place to live - chemical smog, traffic-choked highways, soul-crushing urban sprawl - but the diverse cuisine does offer a silver lining. I’ve lived here a few years for work - still plotting my escape - and can’t imagine anyone considering this place an enjoyable holiday destination.
American (America)
Houston is the most culturally diverse city in the US. The culinarily choices are staggering. But, try to avoid visiting in the summer, when the heat and humidity will slay you.
jatchat (Texas)
I live in Houston and while not perfect ( what city is ) Houston is a terrific place to live . Diversity in culture and food is central to the city and the restaurants reflect that. A dozen or more James Beard award winners call Houston home and the restaurant scene is as good as one would find anywhere in the country..with the possible exception of NYC. Houston also has a outstanding cultural scene, with many live theatre venues, as well as an award winning symphony and ballet company. Overlay all of this with a real Texas spirit and you have a winning combination.
Edie Clark (Austin, Texas)
Ah Houston! Houston was my home for some 30+ years. If you can get past the climate ( the British Embassy once classified it as a hardship post) , it's a fascinating place. I miss the diversity of cultures, and of course being able to sample foods from all over the world. And if you want to cook something exotic yourself, there's always the Hong Kong Market. I remember once seeing a customer pick out a live fish from the tank, and watching as the man behind the counter dipped it out with a net, plopped it on the tile floor, expertly bopped it with a small wooden bat, and wrapped it for what no doubt was that night's dinner. Living in Houston is like going on an exotic foreign vacation without ever leaving home.
Mike Irwin (East Wenatchee, WA)
Shades of Anthony Bourdain! Modak’s hunger for Houston — and all its dining opportunities — was a tasty way to show the city’s diversity. Nice photos, too. My stomach’s growling.
Jimmy (Jersey City, N J)
Looks like Houston lives up to all my expectations, none. I'm sorry, driving everywhere, strip malls and, it appears, only food to offer, just doesn't cut it for me as a destination city. This review makes even Dallas look good.
MMS (Houston, TX)
@Jimmy What is missing from this is all the art , music, green space, and unique neighborhoods. Our food is amazing, but not nearly our entire story. Plus for all the fuss about the heat - we know how to air condition a space and there is a joy to flip-flops in January.
TigerLilyEye (Texas)
@Jimmy Let's see. Besides an amazing and diverse restaurant scene, Houston has world class museums, ballet and symphony, two tier 1 universities and more theatre seats than any US city but NY. Thriving artists community thanks to Sawyer Yards, a warehouse redevelopment offering affordable studios to over 300 artists. The Medical Center has been a magnet for health care innovation and tech. But I'm sure that's nothing compared to the cultural and intellectual stimulation of Jersey City.
Gofry (Columbus, OH)
FYI: The reason the cost of Uber in Houston is so low is that Uber pays the drivers so little here and many immigrants are willing to work for these extremely low wages Drivers take home about $8 per hour after Uber's cut and gas, etc., while beating up their own cars along the way.
Gretchen (Houston, TX)
It's a shame that the NYT traveller did not visit the Heights, a very walkable inner loop neighborhood just a short Metro rail ride from downtown. From our home in the Historic Heights district, we can walk to Vietnamese, Cajun, Mexican, and Italian restaurants, as well as a great bagel shop serving bagels baked on the premises. Come back and check it out.
Joshua Krause (Houston)
I lived in the Heights for years and now live just north of there. I love it. But I’m okay with other areas getting some press. The Heights gets a ton already.
JPH (USA)
Charred black meat and sugar everywhere . Served in styrofoam cups and plates with plastics forks and knives . Ultimate bad American food.
Burning in Tx (Houston, TX)
I can't decide if I love it or hate it. I hate the driving and the over-indulgence. Then, within 1 mile radius from my house I can meet up with people from 10+ different countries. Time will tell.
Matt (Texas)
"hitting the Texas trinity of BBQ — brisket, pork ribs, sausage" Pork ribs are a Memphis thing. Smoking Turkey is a much bigger deal here, as are Beef ribs.
GARY
@Matt I’m glad someone else noticed pork ribs. Don’t think I’ve ever seen pork ribs in a Texas BBQ joint. He must have thought he was in North Carolina.
Anthony (Houston)
Houston is one of the best cities in the world to go out to eat in