Stop #2 on a Yearlong Journey, a Spot in Panama That Takes It Slow

Feb 19, 2019 · 15 comments
Naga (St Louis)
The path less treavelled ... Well mostly less travelled to judge from the comments here. Mr Modak you have a real knack for capturing the magic and electricity of travel .
Susan Stevens (Philadelphia)
Pollution? Plastic filth floating in the water? Apparent sewer pipes leading to the ocean because they have no actual waste management system.....that was my experience of Panama, at least the Panama City islands and beach areas. Beautiful from afar but no place I wanted to return.
Carolyn B. (Washington, DC)
Santa Catalina is certainly not a secret, and this fact is blazingly obvious if you go during Semana Santa. It's a shame that this article doesn't touch on Isla Coiba's mismanagement to describe the place more in line with its reality. There are lots of problems with coastal pollution and waste management in the main port, for example. MiAmbiente's (Panama's Department of Environment, if you will) recent approval of hotel construction in the National Park itself adds to this mismanagement, unfortunately. That said, the eastern coast of the Azuero (Pedasí), for example, has much more tourism, largely because it is easier to get to, so Santa Catalina might seem quiet in comparison. Playa El Estero is the best part of Santa Catalina proper, I believe, but it looks like the author didn't make it further up the road from his hotel (the volleyball photo might be from that beach, but I'm not sure). Stay at Rancho Estero, eat at El Encuentro (ceviche!) and Chano's Point (tuna steak!). After, go to Playa Morillo which is further south, but also in Veraguas Province. There is one hotel on the beach there and only electricity during the daytime. If you need something more luxe, go to Playa Cambutal on the southern coast of the Azuero (Los Santos Province). ¡Enjoy Panamá!
Richard Park (Washington DC)
Welp, now you've gone a ruined it.
traveling wilbury (catskills)
Modak is 2 for 2.
Renée Fishman (NYC)
I came to Santa Catalina for a week-long retreat on January 13 and am now in my 6th week here. Sebastian, thank you for capturing the magic of Santa Catalina so eloquently. It was wonderful to cross paths with you on our respective journies. I distinctly remember when we first crossed paths on the rocks at sunset on the day you arrived. One of the benefits I’ve found to the slower pace of life here is that without being constantly surrounded by people, each fleeting encounter has a chance to become a memory. Every person I’ve met in my time here has expressed reluctance to leave, and also a fear that this will turn into another overdeveloped “resort” town. I sense an increasing communal longing for places like this — places where life is slower, where we can learn to live without the conveniences we often take for granted, where we can live according to the laws of nature. Fortunately, locals and visitors alike seem committed to retaining the vibe that has attracted people here for decades.
Squidge Bailey (Brooklyn, NY)
Santa Catalina proves my travel dictum: follow the surfers! They get to the most beautiful places before the developers, and scatter at the first signs of a high rise. We stayed at La Buena Vida, which was lovely. It appears now to have changed hands from the original owners, who crafted the unique bungalows. But give it a go. Those original owners used to say, "Bad roads, good people. Good roads, everybody." At that point, the macadam was still drying on the new road from town out to the surf beach. and everybody was a bit nervous.
Mike Irwin (East Wenatchee, WA)
I like traveling with the sharp-eyed but easy-going Mr. Modak. He goes where I might go. And he appreciates a place’s people and pace. Plus, no whining about the lack of amenities. Refreshing.
MJ (Northern California)
"Instead, what I found in Santa Catalina was something that feels like a secret." Not any more :-(
Left Coast (California)
@MJ Jada and this author can't win. Comments either berate them for writing about already-popular locals or like yours, complain that these travails expose a previously known secretive spot. Mass tourism sucks. But with climate change and overpopulation increasing, we may as well enjoy the earth while we can.
Chuck Burton (Mazatlan, Mexico)
I can recall lots of paradises. Early hippie travelers found them, and of course we rather naively spread the good word. Sooner or later this inevitably resulted in Paradise Lost. These days when I find a nice, unspoiled spot I try to keep the news to myself. Perhaps the author should look a few years into the future before outing places.
GM (New York)
@Chuck Burton the NY times picks the places, not the author.
EAS (Colorado)
Wonderful post from a remote, mystical locale! This takes my mind off of the grey, snowy, 15 degree day outside and transports me to Santa Catalina. Superb photos and incredible video - pinch yourself...twice!
KMW (California)
Gorgeous photo.
Westcoast Texan (Bogota Colombia)
The pacific coast of Colombia is also fantastic and it's much easier to get there. There are flights daily from Medellin. Goggle Choco, Colombia, and there are many photos and many places to stay.