Was the photo of the roasted pig necessary? What a turn off.
I was hoping the writer would explore PR’s plant based cuisine, which is not only gaining popularity but also is the environmentally-responsible choice.
@Left Coast
As someone not from the United States, I am not interested in what specifically turns you on. Meat consumption is an indispensable part of Latin American culinary tradition and heritage. And guess what? Its practice is a lot healthier and environmentally friendly that any type of food production in the United States. So next time you want to share your preference, be a bit more open minded and culturally sensitive.
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@Left Coast, we spent 4 days in San Juan in December, and as far as I could tell, there is no “plant-based cuisine”. It’s meat and fish all day every day. Especially pork. Indeed, a signature dish indigenous to Puerto Rico is Mofongo, a large ball of mashed plantain stuffed with pork and spices, served in a wooden bowl called a pilón. Other meat accompaniments to your mofongo are chicken, shrimp, beef and octopus. The plantains are mashed with a dressing of beef or chicken broth mixed with garlic and olive oil. Restaurants vie with each other over who has the best mofongo. We had ours at Vaca Brava, 29 Recinto Sur St in old San Juan. Highly recommend.
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@Left Coast
Roasted pigs are a common sight in Puerto Rico, particularly in rural area restaurants. I believe they are common in Hawaii? I cringe at the sight as well even though I eat pork, but I don't have the right to censor the choices of others. I'm just squeamish.
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we just got back. PR is back up and running with the same verve and enthusiasm as I remember from when I lived there 40 years ago. So many people came to live there from so many places. Young people are returning. It's beautiful. People should include Ponce and Rincon on their visits. It's a whole different trip. A great one with new places to explore and enjoy.
Old San Juan was what it used to be. Plaza Las Americas had lots of stores I don't hare here. Great shopping.
The people were wonderful. Everywhere. Viva Puerto Rico
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I have been to Terraza de Bonanza. Totally insane, genuine, crazy fun. Not for the refined, but if you want the real experience of Puertorrican music this is it! I had a blast and I will come back every time I visit.
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I just returned from a week in San Juan. The music (Los Vigilantes), food (Jose Enriques), and deserted Caribbean beaches (Isla Culebra) were amazing. Go to PR!
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@Christopher Scott, we went to eat at Jose Enriques when we were in San Juan in December. We only knew it existed because our daughter and SIL ate there whilst in SJ on their honeymoon. The food is amazing, and well worth the trouble it takes to find the place.
Oddly enough, neither of our two Uber drivers had ever heard of Jose Enriques, which added to the difficulty of getting to eat there. It just looks like an ordinary house in the middle of other ordinary houses. No signage at all. I guess they rely on word of mouth and guys like Anthony Bourdain.
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Great piece, Mr. Modak! Seems that I was in Puerto Rico at the same time you were there. Went to see Hamilton the day before you did, but had the same experience. The audience was as fantastic as the play! Also went to Manatí, Arecibo and Morovis, besides San Juan. Mostly felt the same, enthusiasm and resilience in every Puerto Rican I met and the ones I have known from prior trips BM. I'm taking note of the Monday night's Bomba and Plena for my next trip. Looking forward to your upcoming articles!
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Welcome, Sebastian! I enjoyed your first write-up and photos, and especially your inclusion of the accounts of the many people you were fortunate to meet (and them, you, I’m sure). Though it might’ve been a bit more work, that you chose the less traveled path provided new possibilities for future travelers and you so ably highlighted the hospitality you discovered. I also noted your kindness in mentioning your predecessor, Jada, in this first piece as a way to continue the Times’ “journey.” I look forward to your written updates and will continue to follow you on Instagram. Enjoy your travels!
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Excellent reporting Sebastian and props to the NYT for highlighting Puerto Rico two years in a row while our President makes it an after thought.
Sebmodak is an A Instagram follow.
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Having the good fortune to visit Puerto Rico on an almost bi-weekly basis (my business), it brings tears of joy to me to see others visit and experience our island and culture. When Maria hit my wife and were "stuck"in Europe unable to get back. We made it to South Florida, our other home, organized donations of needed supplies and waiting for a ride to get back. Through charitable charter flights arranged by ex-NY Yankee Jorge and Laura Posada, I made it back. The devastation was complete and heart breaking but the resilience was there from the beginning. A year and a half later, We too were at apparently the same performance of Hamilton, after waiting 9 hours in line for the promise of tickets to be released, and stood and clapped and cried as a burden was lifted from the combined shoulders of all in attendance, saying to ourselves, thank you God for sparing our beloved Puerto Rico.
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I’m certainly glad to hear that Puerto Rico is recovering from the damage caused by Hurricane Maria. There are a couple of points that the article didn’t make: climate change is causing more major hurricanes, and jet-fueled mass tourism is contributing to climate change.Those things don’t only happen over in the Climate and Environment section.
I don’t want to be a killjoy, so I’ll try to think of this series as a substitute for massive fuel burning, rather than an incitement. Hope that’s not overly optimistic.
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Bravo!!!!
I loved this article and so glad you did not go to the usual places we all have heard about. Of course not that you should never go and write about it, it's just that I appreciated the veriaty of other places that bring a picture of the true spirit of the island. The view of the people's resilience and their need to grow organically and willingness to share their heart and soul with visitors could not be overlooked. Thank you for confirming my need to go back home to Puerto Rico and reopen the restaurant my mom has not opened since Maria. Jayuya is in the mountains and offers so much to do and see and a place I want to share with visitors as well. Thank you!!!!
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What a great start for this year's column. To those making comparisons between Ms. Yuan and Mr. Modak's writing, please find something better to do. I loved Jada's articles and always felt I was reading a friend's heartfelt recollections of her travels. Mr. Modak's previous work experience sure shows and his Instagram game is on point. We can appreciate them equally and enjoy their very different journeys. I will however congratulate the genius at the Times who finally gave us more photos and maps! Thank you!
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So much of a country's culture is experienced through its food, I particularly enjoyed your detailed descriptions of the Puerto Rican cuisine and appreciated your determined efforts to find authentic meals.
I look forward to following along on your future (food) adventures!
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After visiting many times over the years we moved here (to the west coast, opposite San Juan) in 2017. It's interesting that elsewhere in The Times today there's an article about people smiling at each other. One of the most striking things about the people we now call our neighbors is how many greet us daily with "buena dia" and a smile. It's common to exchange smiles and greetings at the gas station, in the grocery aisle, or on the street. We have naturally felt like newcomers at times, but we have always felt warmly welcomed.
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I for one enjoyed all of the article including the pig. It is part of the island culture and I appreciate learning about what the people of the island value. The article engaged the senses, and the desire to learn more, and book a flight.
Thank you.
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this guy should be visiting the 52 places that best represent the effects of human population growth, natural resource extraction and depletion, and anthropogenic climate change.
what a portfolio of history that would make ... for the grandchildren of 2060!
and he should be keeping track of how many tons of carbon dioxide his jet travel puts into the atmosphere.
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I have visited this beautiful island every year for over a decade and every time I go I discover something or some place new and special. I do not speak Spanish but almost everywhere I go I get by. I have never felt unsafe or unwelcome. The list of places to go is unlimited. That our current administration has basically ignored the island since Maria is unforgivable.
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How nice to have a new travel writer who knows something about travel and travel writing, and is a good writer. The previous provider of this column was an entertainment writer with apparently no travel writing experience whatsoever--and it showed.
As far as the new writer's exhortation to explore Puerto Rico outside San Juan is concerned, when I spend my hard-earned dollars on a vacation I want to have fun, enjoy myself and get away from my everyday cares and woes.
I have been to Puerto Rico for business and pleasure, and even before the hurricane it was quite a challenge getting along outside San Juan for those who don't speak Spanish.
Staying at an inland hotel on an island noted for its seaside charms? Putting up with surprise power failures and road blockages? I don't think so.
No doubt about it, Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands and many other Caribbean vacation spots were hammered by the hurricane, and they are not yet back to status quo ante. Those who scrimp and save for family (or solo) actions are going to take those hard facts into account in deciding where to take their holidays.
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@Mal T Respectfully, I disagree with your POV. I've visited the island several times and if all you do is lay at the beach or visit the "tourist restaurants", you're missing the real Puerto Rico. The people of this island nation have a wonderful history, cuisine, and a welcoming attitude that I've rarely seen elsewhere. I loved learning new places to visit when I go back there, next year. Different strokes for different folks but remember the mind works like a parachute - much better when it's open.
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@Mal T There are travelers and there are tourists. You are clearly a tourist. Puerto Rico isn't a resort destination. It isn't known for beaches only-it is known for having a vast number of landscapes for such a small territory. Its biggest attraction is El Yunque, a tropical rain forest. So yes, lots of us appreciate the inclusiveness of this article.
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@Mal T The first part of this comment wasn't necessary. Jada Yuan had a style and perspective that didn't have anything to do with her being an entertainment journalist. I appreciated that she wrote about how messy and unpredictable travel could be, the particular challenges she faced traveling as a solo woman, how her own racial/cultural identity informed her insights, and the emotions (good and bad) that she felt over the course of the year. The very fact that she wasn't an experienced travel writer, I think, made her writing much more interesting and accessible. She also seemed to have an amazing knack for meeting and connecting with random people in unexpected places. I especially loved that aspect of her stories - I have a similar skill - and it adds an element that you could never plan into an itinerary.
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Just concluded a business conference in San Juan. Evidence of recovery is everywhere. The limited ‘free time’ we had was enough to create resolve ro return and explore more thoroughly sooner than later! The people were welcoming, friendly and so engaging—can’t wait to go back.
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Just recently went to Puerto Rico myself and your description is perfect. It was such a heart warming experience.
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Beautifully written. Looking forward to your upcoming adventures Mr Modak. The times chose well...
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Solid insightful piece.
Did you have to include the photo of roasting a pig though?
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@Gadflyparexcellence
Pork is a wonderful cultural thing in Puerto Rico and this is one way they do it!
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@Gadflyparexcellence
I agree, the image is as vile as the practice of butchering animals for our consumption. Latin Am. cuisine is changing, but people stuck in time can't seem to embrace plant-based options, thinking it's only an Anglo phenomenon.
@Gadflyparexcellence
Sorry you were offended but the fact is roast pig is a HUGE and very emblematic part of Puerto Rican gastronomy. You will see it everywhere, including San Juan, and not just in the mountains. Keeping an open mind is a must when travelling.
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Next time visit Ponce and its wonderful art museum!
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Excellent piece! The resilience of the people in Puerto Rico is a testament to their strength and courage. Not even a big bad hurricane will destroy their faith.
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Deeply experiencing foreign culture in its intricacies and nuances is one thing. That's hard enough. Somehow transmitting and rebirthing that humanity via any form of communication is another.
Mr. Modak's got it all, thank goodness. An intrepid soul bound for who-knows-what but I'm already excited for his year of exploration.
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Welcome, Sebastian! Love the warmth you convey in this first entry. I'll chime in from Vieques, where I am now and which I visited for The Times six months after Maria. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/travel/vieques-hurricane-recovery.html Power from the main island was restored toward the end of 2018. Recovery continues. Many businesses have reopened. Restaurants that had been destroyed -- El Quenepo and the Tin Box, among others -- have been rebuilt and reimagined. The beaches are pristine. The vegetation stripped by the storm has largely regrown, lush as ever. And the Bioluminescent Bay is sparkling again, some here say brighter than ever before.
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Puerto Rico is a beautiful island and culture. Thank you for highlighting areas outside of the main attractions, while also noting them. There is so much more to experience and explore! You offer a great reminder to stay and eat in locally owned places to get closest to the island's heart and support the people living there as they continue to recover.
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I agree! Just got back from my second trip to San Juan this past year. This time my wife and I went there to celebrate our 10 year anniversary. I cried on the morning we were packing to go home because I wanted to stay longer. Such a beautiful, enchanting, alive place.
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Excellent writing — thoughtful and loaded with details. It’s clear we are wandering with a curious adventurer. I look forward to our Traveler’s 51 upcoming visits.
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Love the article - My mind hears echoes of Anthony Bourdain and my own world adventures - Thank you for this mornings' experience in PR - Liz
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Great article. While in graduate school (1974) my wife and I took an inexpensive midnight flight out of JFK to San Juan, for two weeks in Puerto Rico. We stayed the first week in a pension in Old San Juan, and loved the Old City as the writer here did. The atmosphere changed dramatically, however, on days when tour ships were in port. The authentic San Juan was much more preferable to us, the rest being much more theatrical.
We did get out on the island, and I was disappointed that the writer did not get to El Yunque, which is not to be missed, especially for those unfamiliar with tropical vegetation and wildlife.
And yes, we have been back.
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Thanks for taking me so vividly to Puerto Rico this morning! Happy trails!
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The Times made great choice picking Mr. Modak. This was a very interesting and informative piece. Looking forward to the next stop on his journey.
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@R. Vasquez
I agree! I'm excited to read more of Modak's writing this year, and I suspect I'll be following his work after 2019.
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Call it the carbon footprint tour.
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@Snordow.
If he is riding with others who are local business people as he tours his footprint is minimized. And if the world all stayed home, there would be little or no commerce. Granted, it is a "catch 22" but I do think it is valuable to have contact with other people and other places and like watching travel shows on TV it brings the world to those who cannot otherwise see it.
Sad that someone always has to make a negative comment.
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@ Julie Carter, you must admit that there is something more than a little indulgent about travel writing in general. Would the NYT better serve its readers by having a talented local write a cultural piece? I don't know, but it's hard to pretend that jetsetting is harmless fun anymore.
@Julie Carter. I'm sorry, the Times is sending someone to 52 places in one year while the arctic is melting. That is a problem.
Congratulations Sebastian. This is a well written and interesting piece. What a great start to this series! Excellent section on Plena and Bomba. Learned something new and offered a window into the complex culture of the island. Exactly what I think this series should be about. Despite the devastation you and your predecessor witnessed, your account is positive and absent of complaints. Keep it up and safe travels!
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