36 Hours in San Juan

Feb 07, 2019 · 27 comments
BruceE (Puyallup, WA)
I am confused about the conflicting information coming from different sections of the Times regarding Puerto Rico. On January 13, the News section of the Times ran a lengthy piece entitled "A Wave of Daytime Killings Has Puerto Rico On Edge". The article noted that the murder rate in PR is four times that of the States and on par with Mexico, a place I refuse to travel to currently because of the horrible crime, no matter how many people keep insisting we should go there. The Times article stated that the governor was calling emergency meetings and requesting additional FBI agents. It portrayed citizens as in terror as more and more brazen violent crime is occurring, especially in San Juan. Now the Travel section puts a piece forward encouraging travelers to head out there, just as the section frequently does regarding Mexico, without any mention of what the News section is reporting. I find this ongoing disconnect highly disturbing and as long as there are continued articles highlighting massive amounts of violent crime at escalating levels in both PR and Mexico, I won't be going. I do hope very much to safely visit both places for their warmth, history, culture, food, music, and scenery--but not until headlines about "Killings" stop appearing in the Times. So you all huddle there in Manhattan and get back to us about what's really going on in San Juan because reading the two articles, one would never know you're under the same roof there on 8th Avenue.
Rabble (VirginIslands)
For those with a car and a nose for natural wonders point yourself to a bioluminescent bay kayak tour some dark night, or to the caves, or El Yunque forest for a hike, or west to Isabela for gorgeous beaches, or into the interior for a zip-line through the canyons, or drive the tertiary roads through the karst hills and coffee plantations, or take the ferry from Fajardo for a day trip to nearby Vieques or Culebra, or check out the galleries, or go snorkeling or hear some great music on the Condado...Puerto Rico is so much more than San Juan. Anyyone who spends a week in Puerto Rico has an opportunity to sample a lot of this beautiful island.
SmartGirlNYC (The Bronx)
Want to try something new when you visit Puerto Rico? Consider spending a day visiting or volunteering with Para La Naturaleza, a Puerto Rican environmental group that works at different locations throughout the Island (https://www.paralanaturaleza.org/). You can help protect sea turtles, participate in an iguana census, plant trees, remove invasive vines, transplant seedlings or zip-line across a canyon.
Darla (Panama)
I was in San Juan for a week vacation, last month. The city is, pretty much, back on its feet and the Puerto Ricans are as nice as ever, maybe more, which is one of the things I love about going to the island. If you go buy local, stay at small hotels if you can, eat at the little places, make your dollars reach as much people as you can, they'll appreciate it and you'll discover beautiful places and the nicest and more friendly people in this continent. If you can spend several days, as opposed to just a weekend, go further than San Juan on your explorations. Go to Cayey for the best Puerto Rican food, go to Ponce to enjoy another colonial jewel of a city and a world class art museum, go to the beach, any one you can find, all of them are gorgeous!
That's what she said (USA)
Puerto Rico is gorgeous. Anyone should be lucky enough to experience. Just awful how this beautiful island is being mistreated--https://www.democracynow.org/2019/2/6/puerto_rico_vulture_funds_to_make -- Make it a state already!
Jonathan (Boston)
Gorgeous yes, of course. Mistreated? Put those comments on the op-ed page, OK? So I read recently about crime in San Juan and other locations. That is not uncommon after disasters. But nothing in this article about that. No precautions. Anyone who has recently been there have any news about walking around, especially at night? Safety?
Pedro (San Juan)
@Jonathan as safe as any other big city. #positivevibrations
Darla (Panama)
@Jonathan I went on my own and stayed in Condado (I always stay there and have traveled solo quite a few times) and never felt unsafe walking around the area or in Old San Juan, at any time. As Pedro just said, it is as safe as any other big city, including my own.
Marge gibson (Oakland ca)
The artisan fairs in the old city are marvelous proving that the truly creative people are still there. Seek them out especially the ones that make things that honor the islands heritage such as the Flowers, shells and foods.
Jan (NJ)
Delightful; on my next cruise I will visit San Juan and enjoy the food, drinks, sites, atmosphere, people, and experiences.
V (PR)
You have barely scratched the surface. Favorite haunts: La Vergüenza, La Garita, Mojito and Istambul.
Ginnie Kozak (Beaufort, SC)
Next month I'm heading to San Juan for a few days--the first time since the hurricane. My first visit was during spring break 1968, also in March that year. Over the years I have been able to see much of Puerto Rico: I'm very much looking forward to my trip, but also kind of nervous about what I'll see. However, what could be more traumatic than finding a small Spanish bar in Old San Juan, with flamenco music and dancers, during my student years had become a McDonald's by my first visit return visit about 10 years later?
Yoselly (NJ)
Thank you NYT for all of the recent articles in your Travel section featuring Puerto Rico!
Irene DeBlasio (SoCal)
In 1947, my mother had gone through a dangerous surgical procedure and was told to rest for at least one month. My father suggested that she and I take a ship to San Juan and spend two weeks at the Condado Beach Hotel (the one and only hotel in the area). Mom and I boarded the S.S. Borinquen in New York and spent ten days at sea before arriving at the Condado Beach. What an experience -- we drove completely around the island. The natural beauty was stunning. At that point we decided that we would like to live there. During "Operation Bootstrap" my dad opened a factory in Old San Juan. My parents eventually moved there and we were blessed to spend many holidays in San Juan together. I still consider Puerto Rico like a second home. Thank you for some beautiful recovered memories.
EOD (Chicago, IL)
Just got back from San Juan on Tuesday and am bookmarking this for next year's trip which is already booked. We used to stay closer to Rincon but San Juan is luring us closer and closer to the city. We're falling for it more and more every year!
MJR (Rincon, Puerto Rico)
Old San Juan is an architectural and historical dream. If you’ve never been there, plan to go!
william (New York City)
I stayed at the El San Juan in October --- it is nowhere near ready to host guests. 1/8 restaurants open, 1/2 pools, 1/~6 guest floors. The employees said it wouldn't be finished until 2020, at the earliest
David (Wilmington, Delaware)
My wife and I just returned from a long weekend with a large group of friends who have been going to the Condado every Super Bowl for the last 10 years (just as an excuse, of course). What a fun time we had, hanging out at the beautiful La Concha Hotel drinking various tasty libations at the pools and on the beach! Walking into Old San Juan was wonderful on a beautiful day, where we enjoyed dinner at Triana Tapas (with Spanish guitar & Flamenco) followed by live jazz across the plaza at Carli's. The island is still in recovery from Hurricane Maria, but many parts have come back very well. It's time for everyone who can afford a nice short or long vacation to go there to relax and to spend money. Our presence was greatly appreciated.
Diane Denesowicz (New York)
I'd like to visit in the Spring. I have a question, though. Is renting a car a "must" or is it easy to get around another way?
Armando Cardona (San Juan, Puerto Rico)
@Diane Denesowicz- I’m sorry to say that renting a car while in San Juan (or just about anywhere else in Puerto Rico for that matter) is pretty much a must if you’re planning to do any serious sightseeing around the Island, as public transportation has never really caught on in PR (a legacy of decades of sub-par urban planning); if you’re planning to stay in the SJ Metro Area, you can get by using Über or cabs but that’s about it. The metro bus authority and the urban train are dependable but prettty much stick to one or two major routes. Old San Juan can be enjoyed to the fullest and is best enjoyed by walking. Hope these tips are useful, wish you the very best vacation experience.
Lourdes (San Juan)
@Diane Denesowicz Hi Diane, I recommend über; San Juan is tiny. Enjoy!!!
Carlos (Florida )
@Diane Denesowicz Yes, you must rent a vehicle if you really want to explore the island. Don't forget to visit Rincón's nightlife and its Farmer's Market
Taz (NYC)
You'll pardon me for saying that this is one of the strangest tours of San Juan I've ever read. I think I know the city. My wife and I, over decades, have spend months there. But here I hardly recognize San Juan.
D (Chicago)
@Taz Sounds like a good opportunity to try something new.
Life in a Skillet (Santa Cruz, CA)
@Taz what are your favorite places? I’ll be there for 4 days in March and am looking to make the most of the trip.
JKF in NYC (<br/>)
@Taz Isn't it great when you get another's perspective of a city you thought you knew well? I've lived in New York for a very long time, and am always happy to see, and always learn from, articles about what to see and do here. One does fall into routines.
Shanti Barreto (Condado, Puerto RIco)
We, the Puertorrican Community, feel very thankful for this uplifting article that will inspire the new visitors to enjoy the Island with so many precious natural resources as well as the artistic and humane ones. It is our honor and mindful pleasures to have you and your family as our most beloved guests. Shanti Barreto