36 Hours in Chamonix

Dec 13, 2018 · 39 comments
Laurence Bachmann (New York)
It is just as spectacular in spring, summer and fall. A place not to be missed.
G.McRae (San Felipe, BC)
My father loved to stay in Megev at the Coin de Feu...we always drove over to Chamonix and took the trolley to Couermeyer..he has since passed on..
Nice Meeting You (It Doesn't Matter)
Thanks for all of the great comments (“grinchy” ones rather comical”). Looking forward to visiting there someday. The skiing, sights and culture sound incredible. Can’t wait!!!
NorthStar (Minnesota)
I visited Chamonix in spring of '94. Will never forget the experience. It was dumping thick, heavy snowflakes the first night. I remember walking the streets in search of a decent, affordable restaurant. We found a rustic place in town with a delicious raclette. Later, we found our way to a nightclub with loud music and way too many people dancing, fire codes be damned! While we were there, word quickly spread (pre-internet, way pre smart phones) that Kurt Cobain was dead. It felt to me what it must have been like when Jim Morrison died. I will never forget that night. I long to return to Chamonix.
Mark (North Carolina)
I lived in Geneva last year and went to Chamonix twice last season. Reading this article was the perfect breath of fresh alpine air for my mind on a rainy cold SE USA day. Thank you! Words cannot serve the experience justice, and I am certain Chamonix is just as incredible in mid summer. I plan to find out when I go again, sometime. When I do go back older and slower there may be more people, tourist shops, young college skiers ‘slumming’ it for a weekend session, and that will be fine. The glacier will be smaller too, but it will be there. What time cannot take away is the majesty of Mont Blanc that makes you feel like the little nothing on this planet that we really are. The mountain is humbling. There is a decent bit of “good old dazing” in the comments. Experience is relative for everyone, don’t let someone else’s perception into your mind. Chamonix is a special place on this planet because of where it is, not who visits. Put it on the bucket list.
Jake (Texas)
Was lucky 15 years ago to get a business trip to Geneva in winter. Even luckier to be able to fly out before my meetings started and drive to Brevent for a day of skiing. Only my colleague and I did this, and we were able to make it back to Geneva for the 10 person Sunday dinner meeting. Thanks for the memories!
S.B.R. (Miami Beach Fl.)
Several years ago a group of us hiked around Mont Blanc on the low route, staying in funky hotels, walking, with no passports necessary, through France, Switzerland and Italy. It was a wonderful trip, in early September.
cpepin (Minneapolis)
Are the glaciers melting?
JM (US)
@cpepin, Yes, they most certainly are. And when they do, they are revealing lost people, animals and other things that had fallen into crevasses ages ago.
J. Bel (Rochester, NY)
G0 to Lake Placid for a tenth of the cost. If you don't care to ski try Blue Mountain Lake.
RS (PNW)
@J. Bel The 'mountains' in Lake Placid don't even break the tree line; the top peaks are around 5,000' feet. That's nothing like what a place like Chamonix has to offer. I agree there are less expensive substitutes in North America, but Lake Placid isn't one of them.
jfchessa (El Paso, TX)
@J. Bel I've been to Chamonix and Lake Placid. Both beautiful, but the mountains and apres ski in Chamonix are so much more than in Lake Placid. It is not even close.
Realist (NYC)
I have been to Chominix many times, which hosts the Mt Blanc tunnel (11.5) connecting to Courmayeur Italy by car or bus. Chominix is blessed by it's location at the base of the Mt Blanc and is truly a winter summer paradise for sports enthusiasts. In winter season leave your car at home as it's difficult town to navigate in the heavy snows or worse park anywhere. Summer is the busiest of seasons where all of Europe seems to converge here or cross into Italy. The Town has little charm as a resort, it's basically about convenience and access to supplies and sports outfitters. Tourist day trippers abound to take the cable Aiguille Du Midi cable car to the summit which is amazing. Folks can go skiing of course, hiking in the alpine trails, mountain climb, kayak etc. But most will be content to simply look that the magnificent views of the Mt Blanc and largest glacier in France or perhaps Europe, take in the fresh air, souvenir shop and grab a bite of lunch at the many quick serve storefronts. For those wishing to stay this immediate area for a few days in the summer, book far in advance for July August periods and suggest accommodations located outside of Chominix within 25 miles.
Martha ( Canada)
@Realist Chamonix, not Chominix — weird when you’re writing is otherwise good. Were you using autocorrect?
Karen J. Reiff (East Lansing, MI)
Visited in summer, 2004. Memories of a breathtaking ride up to city center, the best fondue I’ve ever had, and a cable car up to a glorious lunch overlooking Mont Blanc are all seared in my brain. Ah, to experience it all over again!
Don P. (New Hampshire)
Chamonix is a skiers paradise. As an intermediate skier, Brevent offered excellent skiing and other nearby slopes are just a short bus ride away. And then you can ski the glacier from near the top of Aiguille du Midi - for me it was a challenge and I should have taken more time to acclimatize, but it was both thrilling with some added terror and at the same time the most beautiful peaceful adventure. Lunch at the Panoramic Restaurant is a must and so is doing burgers at Poco Loco and in the morning’s it’s off to one of the many excellent pastry shops to enjoy a treat with coffee. Chamonix is laid back fun with style.
A Yank in the UK (London)
I will agree with other commenters that Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is more than worth the trip at other times of the year, and even if you don't ski. The views are spectacular, the town is charming, and in June you can cable car to snow covered peaks plus hike forest trails. And you can take a day trip by train to Annecy, where the glacial lake is the most remarkable color blue I've ever seen.
Anon N 1 (Japan)
I don't want to give away any secrets, but since it can use the custom, I'd like to give s shout out to the Brasserie Le National. Tres chic in a slumming sort of way.
nancy harmon jenkins (<br/>)
@Anon N 1 Yes, the Nash. Where the climbers hang out, exchange information, recount exploits. Read James Salter's Solo Faces, brilliant book, unfolds in Chamonix and a bar cafe strikingly like the Nash.
pazza4sno (Oregon)
We went in July and took the train to the Mer de Glace. As we climbed down the 500 steps to the glacier’s present location, we saw signs on the rocks that said “level of the glacier 2015”. We still had another 100+ steps down, that much has melted in 3 years. There were tarps covering the glacier to slow its melting. Saddest thing I have ever seen.
Philip (Seattle)
The problem is that there is currently very little snow in Chamonix. There is a partial opening of the slopes from the 15th to the 21st, and then every day after that, depending on conditions. Not great from the highest mountain in the Alps, but you can still go for the adventure.
Susannah Allanic (France)
You forgot to mention the Alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus). Other than that, great guide. We went there in May on our honeymoon nearing 20-years ago.
Raymond (P)
It's also beautiful during the other seasons. I spent a week there last spring and enjoyed every moment of it. So many good restaurants, hiking trails, and people from all over the world. I then did the 11 day Tour de Mont Blanc hike, which I highly recommend for those that are in good shape that enjoy hiking and amazing scenery.
John M (Ohio)
I took a Saturday tour from Geneva, 90 minute bus ride, the train to the glacier, lunch back in town, then the cable car....outstanding !!!! Incredible place....it was pouring rain the night before in Geneva, it snowed 12 inches at Aiguille du Midi, all good Not a place to be missed
alan (McGovernville)
I wouldn't know what it's like there now, but I rode the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and skied a guided run down the Vallee Blanche in 1976. It takes all day to do it, and it's my most powerful memory of that trip. Reputedly the best ski run in the world and the single best thing to do in the region in my opinion.
Anonymous (United States)
I am going there—even if it’s the last thing I do!
Anon N 1 (Japan)
@Anonymous Been there, done that; want to go again and do more.
Susannah Allanic (France)
@Anonymous Don't make it the last thing. It's a wonderful place in the late spring (I'm too much a Texan to brave through the winter months there)
robert ames (walla walla)
there's no glacier in your picture of the mer de glace. d-oh!
Anon N 1 (Japan)
@robert ames The peak in the photo is the Aiguille de Blathiere as seen from the Montenvers train. It's a stunning photo of the West Face (71 in Rebuffat's guide), but it appears to have been taken in the summer as neither our photographer nor our reporter are serious hikers.
robert ames (walla walla)
@Anon N 1 but it is still not a picture of the glacier. glaciers are just as easy to see in the summer as they are in the winter. the picture is just plain mis-captioned.
Anon N 1 (Japan)
@robert ames - Indeed, I agree. It would have been nice if the caption were to have mentioned the Blaitiere and the spectacular Chamonix Aiguilles. (Sorry about the typo in the previous post.)
Mike OD (Fla)
It's not welcoming me- ever! I don't go where it snows for any reason!
Anonymous (United States)
@Mike OD: You are really missing out. My father was from Blue Mtn Lake, NY, and was sick of snow. He moved to the South. I think he missed out too. He thought it quite ironic that I became a dedicated skier.
Mike OD (Fla)
@Anonymous No, I'm not missing out on anything, including black ice, slush, multiple foot think drifts, shoveling, frostbite, pneumonia, snow chains, and the rest of that dreary garbage. I grew up in snow country, and ski, as well as ice skate, and I don't miss any of it at all.
Tom (NY)
Flying and getting all of the way to Chamonix for just three days only is a bit exhaustive to include skiing. And bring oxygen to the top of the Midi. Not for the faint of heart, the swinging tram ride up and down or the thin air. Chamonix is also too crowded today. A bit Disney'fied. Lots of tourists from Asia and elsewhere.
Anonymous (United States)
@Tom: Well, you can stay longer, you can take diamox for altitude sickness, and I’m sure you could also find something to increase your courage.
Cat (Washington)
Agree! First a drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel, then arrive at Chamonix.
mark (boston)
Such a cool and stunning town! Look forward to another visit.