Regarding foreigners who want to get cash (yen) while in Japan... 'everyone' knows that the best place, and where foreign debit cards do indeed work, is at the 7-11 'combeni' stores located all throughout Japan.
If you are taking the trouble to go to the west coast of Honshu, why have you left out the most amazing places? Takayama, Mastumoto, etc. I will not depend on you to guide where to go given your performance on this area.
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Damn, @Molly. Kinda harsh.
How on earth could you not find sushi in Kanazawa? 2 minutes of Internet research and a short walk, taxi or bus ride from the station will take you to the famous Omicho market which is packed with sushi restaurants.
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Ms Yuan, I enjoyed the piece on your visit to the Honshu coast in Japan. I think your writing style is fresh, and I don’t expect you to be an expert on everyplace you visit - just the curious (and articulate) traveller you seem to be.
But since this is after all the NYT, I need to correct one error - Kannon is neither a Buddha, nor is she a goddess of mercy. but rather a bodhisattva (aspiring Buddha sort of). As one of the worlds 488 million Buddhists, we really appreciate it when journalists take the time to get the religious facts right.
Thanks again for an enjoyable visit - I look forward to reading more of your work.
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Just returned from a 13-day trip around Honshu island of Japan. I loved the hotel I stayed at in Kanazawa, the Sainoniwa. It's 15min walk away from the main station but free shuttles are provided throughout the day. Sampled some oden at Kuroyuri inside Kanazawa station. Dismayed that smoking is allowed inside the dining areas. And of course, had to try the gold leaf soft-serve ice cream sold everywhere.
Despite the lack of trash cans, the streets are surprisingly clean.
My last visit to Japan was in 2004. A lot has changed. Back then, ordering food from restaurants was difficult. Now I'm presented with menus in various languages.
I've lived in Kyoto since 1977 but have yet to encounter any eel that could be described as 'hard to chew'.
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At least on my last two trips to Japan, maybe in 2010 and 2008?, 7-11 convenience stores (aka 'SAY-ben eh-RAY-ben com-BAY-ni'), located all throughout Japan, were my best bet for getting yen/cash with my US bank ATM card.
I also think it helpful that if you plan to try and meet up with locals, that upon arrival at the airport, that you go to one of the phone rental kiosks and rent a mobile phone for your visit, and so you can text others when trying to meet up. Again, at least as of my last visit in 2010, Japan was on a different mobile system whereby even my unlocked quad-band phone would not work there, hence the need to rent a phone that uses the local mobile band.
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@Lisa
Yes, the ATMs in 7-11 stores can be used,
in addition to post office ATMs, to
get cash using foreign cards, and the screen displays in English.
My 4S iPhone with Swiss plan (GSM SIM) has worked everywhere in Japan since 2012.
Another important thing to note to anyone thinking of driving: in Japan you drive on the left-hand side like in
Britain. If you're not comfortable with that, better to
use the excellent public transportation. Much better ecologically anyway.
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This article cries out for more pictures! (and makes me very much want to go back to Japan)
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We lived in Japan for 3 years, '88-'91.....this brought back fond memories.
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Come on, Ms. Yuan, a yukata is no harder to put on than a bathrobe (even the women's version)--that's the whole point. But I understand your trepidation about geta; I wear them occasionally and it always takes awhile to get my "geta legs" back when I do.
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I can't stress the point about trash enough. I ended up ruining my backpack and some items I had in it because I unexpectedly had to carry my garbage all around, and a yakitori stick poked through a plastic bag and leaked everywhere. You could really go a whole day of walking around without seeing a trash bin. Even the pervasive vending machines only have recycling bins nearby, if that. On my next trip there, I would plan to carry a thick plastic bag or container in my backpack just for trash.
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@Jake Jortles
It's not so much a "leave with what you brought" mentality as a long-lingering after-effect of the domestic terrorism incident (the subway sarin attacks) in 1995, then the World Trade center attacks in 2001. First the major railway operators, then many other municipal and private entities decided to do away with public trash cans in the interest of safety. In most cases, they never brought them back. One result is that the ubiquitous convenience stores--often the only places with rubbish bins--have to deal with a lot more garbage, most of it from non-patrons.
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Things I would have liked to hear about in this article—the range of cost for a trip based on recommended length of visit and strategies for overcoming jet lag to maximize the experience. I understand the jet lag is terrible and Japan is incredibly expensive, two barriers that kept me from making the journey.
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@RachelK Te idea that 'Japan is expensive' is like saying that 'NYC is so expensive'. In both places, prices really do run the gamut.
In Japan, there are ryokan (traditional inns) which cost much less than hotels. There are capsule hotels for those who might like the quirky factor, yet not mind the closed confines. And I'm sure that, just like in NYC, Japan also probably has some perfectly nice budget hotels...almost on the idea of modern, spartan dorm type rooms. You just gotta search for them.
Here is a link to a site I used in the past, to reserve a ryokan. I communicated with them by email and everything worked out perfectly. (In Osaka, I stayed at Kaneyoshi Ryokan...it was great.)
http://www.ryokan.or.jp/english/
As for food, it too runs the gamut. You typically want to eat where the locals eat. There are plenty of places to get quick easy meals for very reasonable prices.... donburi, yakitori, soba noodles, okonomiyaki, etc. It's no different than in NYC....there is a wide range of dining options, and prices, for all income levels. And still yet, if you are worried about keeping your costs low for food, you could allow yourself one meal at a restaurant per day, and then for breakfast, just go to a coffeeshop and get a piece of pastry, and supplement that with an orange from the supermarket. Another quick, cheap food option for either breakfast OR lunch is...just go to any 7-11 store (they are ubiquitous in Japan) for a packaged 'rice cake' (onigiri)
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@RachelK
Don't wait to visit Japan. It's a wonderful country!
I've found the jet lag from the West Coast to Japan to be easier than Europe.
Prices aren't nearly as onerous as you might have been led to believe. The exchange rate is currently pretty decent and there are a number of mid-range hotels as well as well priced ryokan.
Ryokan can become expensive when a high end, multi-course meal is included just as meals become expensive when pricy ingredients are included.
Search for posts on Paul's Travel Pics Blogspot to get an idea of just how inexpensively you can travel to Japan!
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@RachelK -your jet lag is less than mine flying from east coast to Japan which I did last month. Allow one day to recover when you arrive. There are MANY inexpensive eateries all over Tokyo, ride the public transportation on a cash card (get in subway station), visit parks and shrines which are mostly free. Do your research online before traveling to get suggestions.
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Jada, you reminded me of the day nearly 20 years ago that I crossed paths with a young man wearing a sweatshirt emblazoned with "Los Alamos Hawks" (the local middle school) as I wandered the rural outskirts of a town west of Kobe.
Having been abroad for over a year, what a comforting feeling it was to encounter someone else who had watched the setting sun light the Sangre de Christo in an amaranthine blaze and who had slept under the endless expanse of stars in the New Mexico sky.
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@Jonathan @Edgar Just wanted to say hi to the fellow New Mexicans on this thread! Great to hear about your adventures and small world encounters.
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Another terrific 52 Places article. To clarify Jada's comment about the JR Pass. It has until recently been required to be purchased 'before' you arrive in Japan. For a two year trial period that ends on March 31 2019 it can also be purchased at certain key stations in Japan. There is no decision at this time I believe if this will be extended - check before you travel!
If your a skier consider what I did last Christmas/New Year, I did several days skiing near Sapporo then commenced a 14 day JR pass that allowed me to travel almost the length of the country (with a couple more days at the end with more skiing). I chose the 'Green Car' pass over the 'Ordinary' that gave me a bigger business class seat and leg room (important as i did over 3,000 miles on trains), but more importantly for peak seasonal travel the certainly of getting a seat on the Shinkansen departure times that I had planned between the bigger cities and towns. For trip planning such as routes and times I strongly recommend the HyperDia App (free for one month).
Finally whilst I travelled solo it was great to see some western families with some very young kids and also others with teenagers all enjoying what is safe, culturally rich and these days a good priced country to vacation.
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I noticed you dissed Google translator in your adventures. I have to defend the app. As an expat living in Honduras, I couldn't live without it. There may be other ones out there, but it has served me well and I wouldn't want others to be turned off by your comments as I found it extremely helpful. Happy traveles!
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@Elaine Sammons
Between Japanese and English, though, it has a lot of problems. Not truly awful, but depending on the source content, still nearly incomprehsible at times. It works for short phrases of a general nature.
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Omg. Google translate sucks with Japanese. At least with Japanese to English, use polite Japanese because it doesn’t understand very casual and extremely polite speaking.
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Thank you for this article, a lovely reminder of the particularities I learned to live with as a young English teacher in the 80s in Osaka. Now, 35 years later, as many trips, a grown half-Japanese son, and a world of memories, I consider Japan my second home.
Of interest to future travelers: the Japan Rail pass is better acquired outside of Japan, and indeed will have to be after March 31, 2019. There are many reputable vendors online, and the voucher you receive can be redeemed at all major train stations.
Finally, a word about Japanese nouns. There is no plural form: thus, 1 kimono, 2 kimono, 3 etc. And yes, in kimono and other such garments, wrap left over right. Right over left is reserved for the dead.
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Kudos to Jada for mentioning the abundance of single use plastic. For those of us who would like to decrease our carbon footprint, especially during travel, it's important to consider earth-friendly options such as bringing one's own bag.
Also reading the portion on seafood, I couldn't help but think about how at some point in the near future, humans will have depleted most marine life to the point where "enjoying" (I don't) fish isn't possible.
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I just returned last week from my first trip to Japan and loved it. I went hiking with REI in 2 different areas (Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo). We also visited Tokyo (mind-boggling) and Kyoto. Use the public transportation - the US could learn a lot of lessons from the Japanese on good public transport. Watch youtube videos for tips on riding the Tokyo subway and trains. According to our guide, the reason there are no trash cans in Japan is from the poison attack over 20 yrs ago - besides the attack in the subway, poison was put in trash cans and people were killed.
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While your comments about the need for cash in Japan is correct, you didn’t mention the surprisingly handy, plentiful and essential 7/11’s. They all have international ATMs and there are scores of them in every city. And a handy spot to grab some (very reasonable) food. If only the US ones were as nice.
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@Mark Carter The 7/11s are indeed quite handy. They also sell some quality umbrellas. But I didn't find myself needing physical cash more often than I do back in New York. Which is to say, yes, sometimes small restaurants are cash only.
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@Mark Carter Hi Mark, I've heard this from several others, which is great news. In all my running around, I didn't see a single 7-11, but I also wasn't going on typical path, Osaka airport to Kanazawa train station to Kinosaki and then the reverse. (Would recommend putting Kinosaki right after Osaka.) So the only city I walked through was Kanazawa, and whatever routes I took didn't take me by one. Noted for next time!
@Jada Yuan That is surprising! I encountered 7-Elevens in all the cities I visited in Japan. A 7-Bank ATM is always inside. There was a 7-Eleven at the Kanazawa station.
I love Jada Yuan’s writing. Although I will likely never have time to travel extensively, she makes me feel like I could be at home in the world. This post has been one of my favorites!
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Travel is my hobby and has been for most of my life. Unfortunately, this year I've been dealing with some back problems that have essentially grounded me. So, I'm doing the next best thing: reading Jada Yuan's travel essays. Even tho I have not been to Honshu, I have traveled around Japan and this piece touched so many memories, it made me feel like I was with her every step of the way. Other readers might have their favorites, but I think Ms. Yuan hit all the right notes with this piece. Thanks for making my day - and my year!
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@Chicagogirrl13
Thanks Cg13! I too have been grounded with back problems so I feel ya. I lived in Japan for 4 years so love reading articles like this one Makes me want to travel! May we meet out there “on the road “ very soon. Good luck with your healing!
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@Chicagogirrl13 @Jim B I hope you both recover from your back problems soon! And thank you for the kind words. Even while traveling I've been gathering new ideas from reading articles, so you're not alone there. I don't know if you can get around at all, but when I'd get restless in Brooklyn, I'd explore a 4 block radius near my apartment, or just one avenue not too far away. It was energizing to learn about new businesses and meet the owners. Fingers crossed you both make it to Japan soon!
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Kiyoshi-san in Wajima must meet all the gaijin. I met him a few years ago when my friends and I were cycling around Noto during Golden Week. And the JR rail pass is not always a bargain. 1) It is only good on JR lines, not the private lines 2) If you stop for a few days in various places or use multiple means of transport, it could be more economical to pay regular fare.
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If you have an itinerary, there are websites that will tell you whether a JR pass is worth it. We traveled in Osaka, Kyoto and Tokyo using a prepaid debit card called an IC card. We had Pasmo cards (Suica is another one) that could be reloaded at any large train station. Touch the card at the turnstile on entering & exiting and the fare is automatically deducted.
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@Anon N 1 I agree, I didn't use a JR rail pass in my recent travels. Some of my trips were with the private lines or buses.
I, too, am a Native New Mexican who ventured to Japan. Love the food, love the countryside, love the cities, and especially...even though I basically walked everywhere, love the trains. You have never traveled unless you have been on the Shinkansan.
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