The New York Slice That Slices Through Tradition, at Mama’s Too

Nov 06, 2018 · 124 comments
A. Stanton (Dallas, TX)
I like pizzeria-made pizza. I usually get some once a week. But why is it America’s number 1 food and why do pizza joints regularly get extravagant, over-the-top reviews such as the one delivered here. I could tell you, but H.L. Mencken did the job better than I could a hundred years ago, so I’ll let him do it. “ Nowhere else in the world have women more leisure and freedom to improve their minds, and nowhere else do they show a higher level of intelligence, or take part more effectively in affairs of the first importance. But nowhere else is there worse cooking in the home, or a more inept handling of the whole domestic economy …. It is surely no mere coincidence that the land of the emancipated and enthroned woman is also the land of canned soup, of canned pork and beans, of whole meals in cans, and of everything else ready-made." ---- In Defense of Women, 1919.
Janet Heettner (Upper Westside)
Live right across the street from Mamas Too. Started eating his pizza (with his wonderful homemade pickled peppers) right after he opened. Ate his Grandmothers pizza at Mamas when it was on Broadway and the one on Amsterdam as well. My kids grew up on it. We loved it all for different moments but Mamas Too is as Pete Wells said something different and special. I do wonder though about the impact of a Pete Wells review on this small place without many ovens. I worry that like a review of a top chef’s new restaurant too soon, this review will overwhelm the place. Now you can’t order pies and the lines for slices are long. I suppose this will shakeout the regulars from the foodie “tourists.” I wish them the best as I want to continue to cross the street and buy great pizza.
ajweberman (Manhattan)
Dylan goes electric moment. I have to phone this Pizzeria and shout Judas!
Lenny Rothbart (ny,ny)
Wonderful family. When his parents' place was in their previous location, right across the street from us, our daughter was very young, and his father used to give her a free slice sometimes, just because. We still go to the new location at 106 and Amsterdam (he still asks about her), as well as Mamas Too.
Jim H (New York, NY)
Hey, thanks for the line out the door and the 15 minute wait because they ran out of pies.
Lifelong Reader (. NYC)
@Jim H Tonight, the line was constantly busy and when I got through, I was told that I could order a delivery only online. I've had some bad experiences with online delivery services, but I went ahead and am waiting. Delivery is not free, but $3.00. $32.50 for a pizza before the tip is not inexpensive. But it has been good in the past.
Grittenhouse (Philadelphia)
The cheese absolutely has to be the topping of the pizza. A little browned in the oven, with a rich tomato sauce underneath. No other way is permissible. When I first moved to Pennsylvania and encountered a pizza with sauce on the top, which was completely messy and lousy, I thought, what backwards village in Italy did these people come from?
Molly Bloom (NJ)
Growing up in Upstate (near the Canadian border Upstate) New York, pizza was what New Yorkers call “Sicilian”. It was just tomatoes and Parmigiano Reggiano on a square shaped thick dough base. Sometimes anchovies were in the tomatoes. Mama Too’s looks wonderful!
bauskern (new england)
@Molly Bloom Thank you for the geographical detail. Most of the readers of this column think that "Upstate" refers to the Catskills.
Nat (NYC)
@bauskern Upstate? That's the Bronx, right?
Michael B. (Washington, DC)
I moved to New York from Massachusetts (suburbs) in the 1980s. My first bizarre experience was that NY ers folded over their pizza. I couldn't believe that. The second bizarre experience was that every slice I had was better than anything I had in Massachusetts. I have moved on from pizza for my health. I love this review. Go Red Sox (sorry, had to say that).
DMW (New York,, NY)
My whole family ate his grandmother’s pizza in the 70s when I was growing up—she had a spot between 104 and 105. He makes the best slice around! He has done her proud.
Lifelong Reader (. NYC)
@DMW From the photo in Mamas Too I see it was in the old Automat. It's now an urgent care medical office.
Sera (The Village)
Bravo! Mr. Wells in making this deep dish subject light, airy, and still informative. On the subject of Newport 1965 though, friends who were there recall a very different reaction to the popular one. Yes Pete Seeger did threaten to chop the electric wires, but many loved it. More important though is that Dylan's synthesis of Folk and Rock and Roll was a natural, and inevitable one. He never abandon folk, as some of his recent albums show, he just added to it. So, charge on Mr. Tuttolomondo! There's room for all the world here. Your refinements are welcome, and needn't replace the grand slices that still remain from old New York, they just add to the richness of the world's greatest culinary city.
Josiah Gluck (UWS)
Very happy to see this neighborhood gem get this recognition— and it’ll now be packed. Yes— the pepperoni is sublime, and Frank is a great host. My kids also love the original Mama’s on 106th and Amsterdam, As a life long native of the UWS, my heart still belongs to V&T, but this is a worthy competitor.
A. David (New York)
@Josiah Gluck It's too bad that V & T will probably never receive the critical praise that the newer pizza places earn. I don't think any pizza ever tasted as good as the pies that V & T turned out decade after decade.
Lifelong Reader (. NYC)
@A. David I never understood the praise for V & T. The crust is usually burnt and the ingredients are average. I've also found Sal and Carmine's to be overrated.
Jay Amberg (Neptune, N.J.)
I can't speak much to pizza across the river because it's been a long time since i worked in the city and would enjoy a slice and a Coke. But on my side in Jersey, a lot of pizza places I grew up with always put the cheese on first and then the sauce. They were just called "tomato pies." You go by some of the old places and you still see neon signs in their windows advertising, tomato pies. I know Marucas in Seaside Heights, N.J., makes a pretty good old-style tomato pie and I think they're opening in Asbury Park too. There's De Lorenzo's and Papa's, both old school Trenton originals, that have moved to Robbinsville, N.J., as their clientele left the city and into the suburbs.
Bob Anderson (Westfield, NJ)
@Jay Amberg: Yes, Jay is absolutely right: Old fashioned Tomato Pies from Trenton, NJ and its environs (and apparently in some spots along the shore) are fundamentally different pies. Made, as Pete Wells and Jay indicate, by 'laying' the cheese down first and then applying the sauce (generally on the somewhat 'chunky' side) gives the pie a fuller, more tomatoey essence. Eat them while you can because the pizza culture of Trenton is near finished. Or maybe we can get them resurrected as in Manhattan, etc. Great article.
Rob D (CN, NJ)
You live in Neptune and no mention of Pete & Elda's fabulous thin, crisp crust?
Jay Amberg (Neptune, N.J. )
Taco pie my friend. Nuzio's in Long Branch or Vic's in Bradely also Squan Tavern in Manasquan make up my local Trifecta.
David Gottfried (New York City)
I grew up in Brooklyn, in the same neighborhood made famous by "Saturday Night Fever," and I have very strong feelings about pizza. I don't know anything about the rising time of dough, but I remember all the non gustatory aspects of pizza. I remember the rock n roll hits on the juke boxes. I remember that a pizzaria two blocks from my synagogue sold a slice of pizza, with a coke, for 35 cents in 1965 and 1966. I remember eating a delicious slice in a pizzaria in Brooklyn, on 5th Avenue between 76th Street and 75th street, and seeing a plump mouse scurry across the floor. I am so partial to the pizza of my Brooklyn memories that I must say, most emphatically, that that was the best pizza I have ever eaten. Sometimes the sauce in the center did make the crust soggy, but one doesn't complain when the flavors come together as flawlessly as the notes coming from a piano played by Horowitz.
Kenneth Mitchell Reiff (Long Beach California)
@David Gottfried Well said. My brother and I would be given a buck, enough for 2 slices each and we'd share a coke.
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@David Gottfried Mr. Gottfried - I love your comment, especially your closing sentence in how your compare the various flavors coming together as "flawlessly as the notes coming from a piano played by Horowitz." My only substitution would have been Mr. Rubenstein. He brought tears to my eyes by simply sitting at the piano - I thought he was that great and marvelous.
East/West (Los Angeles)
@David Gottfried - Sheepshead Bay Brooklyn mid 60's. Nostrand Ave between Avenue Y and Z. Mom would give me a buck for two slices and a coke at Connies Pizzeria. I would have 10-12 cents to go fill up with Bazooka Joe Bubble gum and candy at the Stationary Store right next door. Heaven!
Citizen (New York)
No delivery??? OH NO ... because the Upper West Side has been a Pizza Desert for a long time.
Lifelong Reader (. NYC)
@Citizen There's delivery. It's $3 and I just received an estimated wait of two hours.
Georgette (California)
Tantalizing article--verging on pizza porn.
Ben (Austin)
There should be a law against posting pictures of pizza from New York. Some variant on the old obscenity laws. Food porn like this just makes any real slice in my part of the world seem lacking.
Tony (Poughkeepsie)
When I'm in the Bronx, Gun Hill Road, I get a slice . The last time there I mentioned how good the pizza is. Its the city water, I was reminded. Of course!
Rick Dale (Las Vegas, NV)
I ate at this place on Saturday because of the good buzz about it. It has a lot of potential, they use good ingredients, nice fresh basil on every slice. But the number one adjective to describe the pizza is that it's burnt. You can't fold a slice at Mama's Too. That black crunchy crust that sticks straight out when you hold it by the edge? That's burnt. I ate half the slice and won't be back any time soon.
Jodi D (New York, NY)
I stumbled upon this place last week, on Halloween, in search of a quick dinner after a French lesson and was blown away. The pizza is absolutely delicious. For me, it was all about the bread. Beyond!
AlanKlein (Denver Via Brooklyn)
What? No mention of burning your palate, occasionally, from the hot melted cheese? A very authentic memory from my childhood.
Pb (Chicago)
“Neoclassical”, “revivalist”, “archetypal”- am I reading a pizza joint review or am I in the NYt arts section?
Mike (Walnut Creek, CA)
@Pb or both?
A J Matas (Wilmington DE)
Pizza is art
ADH3 (Santa Barbara, CA)
@A J Matas Au contraire - pizza is love
Dave in Northridge (North Hollywood, CA)
I don't live in New York any more, so this is not going to be about pizza. It's just that the way this review is written is not the way a one-star restaurant gets covered. I hope, Pete, that you aren't reviewing the looks of the place - the most humble restaurant can be serving two-star food, and that's what your review sounded like.
mark (new york)
@Dave in Northridge I don't understand people who question whether Pete has awarded the proper number of stars. Do you know more about his rating system than he does? Give him the respect you'd give any sole proprietor.
Robin (New York, NY)
The best slice on the Upper West Side for many years was T&R Pizza at 411 Amsterdam, between 79th and 80th Street (now closed.) Not sure what happened to T&R or to all the other closed-down shops between 79th and 110th Street but that part of the city is quickly losing its charm and its history. Isabella's at 359 Columbus Ave.? Closed. Cafe Con Leche at 726 Amsterdam Ave.? Closed. Lemongrass on 95th Street? Closed. Flor de Mayo, Cafe Lalo, and Good Enough To Eat are some of the only iconic Upper West Side restaurants left.
Paul Schatz (Sarasota Florida )
Since leaving Brooklyn in 1962 I have lived in many places. My life has largely been a quest for a great NYC slice. As a matter of fact I am writing this on a plane heading to Las Vegas to visit family. My first stop will be at Dom DeMarco's, the Nevada offshoot of DiFaras. Wish me luck please.
David F. (Brooklyn)
@Paul Schatz Go to Metro Pizza, best sicillian in the country. Seriously
William Mansfield (Westford)
So Santarpio’s?
Brittany (Howell)
I alway enjoy reading Mr. Wells’ satirical yet respectable approach to New York culture. He gets us. He knows how we feel about pizza and how apprehensive we are to anything that’s not our “street corner pizza.” Thanks for always pushing us to step out of our comfort zone and be a little more open to our stubborn, stubborn ways.
Kersten Ostwald (Upper West Side, NYC)
Tuttolomondo also makes & sells his own pickled peppers. They are a little spicy, a little sweet, with a bit of acid - a perfect topping for some of the heftier squares. Don’t miss them!
Ángel (West 106th Sotreet)
Mam two is the best pizza in NYC!! Visit the original Mama’s on Amsterdam Avenue and 106th. Street. It’s different and also amazing.
Pepper (Manhattan)
@Ángel ...If you think the original Mama’s has amazing pizza..you must not get out much.
Marge Keller (Midwest)
I don't recall the last time I saw such enticing, delicious, and mouth watering photographs of food like I did in this article. Between the various pizza assortments and the dinner rolls portrayed in the slide show, I wanted to attack my computer screen like a hungry hyena. Gosh, those pictures were practically 3-D and popping off the page. Nicely done An Rong Xu!!
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Marge Keller Midwest It is so nice of you, always to compliment the photographers and table setters, who all too often remain unnamed. The pizza that I liked most is in Slide 3, with pepperoni, which made my mouth water and stomach pulsate. P.S. -- In your preceding comment you mentioned one piece of information about yourself that would go into your biography, to be compiled from your comments. :-))
Lifelong Reader (. NYC)
What a coincidence, I discovered this place about three weeks ago. The caramelized onions and mushrooms are very good too. The crust is delicious, I ripped it off and ate it just the way Wells described.
Taxman (NYC)
Pizza: Meh. Approach: no receipt, No Sale (not kidding)
Sal D'Agostino (Hoboken)
I hate pizza that is brown, full of air blisters, and tastes like a charred matzo with tomato sauce. And I have never had a Neopolitan slice with a "soupy" center. I've had plenty of slices that achieve a crunchy bottom while retaining an excellent "chew".
dandnat (PA)
I haven't lived in NY, for a long time. Does Ray's still exist?
Matthew (Nj)
Yes, but none are the original. And the original isn’t the original.
dennis divito (Virginia)
@dandnat I would go out of my way to go to Ray's on Spring St.
From Where I Sit (Gotham)
A quick joke: How many people does it take to open a Ray’s Pizza in Manhattan? Answer: Three. One on this block, one on the next block and one on the block after that.
James (Boston, MA)
Suggestion: give the cross street! Then I can just get on the subway without looking at a map or, worse, my phone.
KGS (New York City)
@James He says Broadway and 106th St.
Elizabeth (Northern Virginia)
If New Yorkers are now nuts enough to no longer want that "sidewalk pizza experience," please send one of those corner shops down here to NoVA, where exiled NYers long for a lovely, greasy, foldable slice from the corner counter. Is the city really that filled with pseudo NYers, originally from Peoria?
Oui, Chef (NJ)
Shocked there are no complaints about a review of a slice joint. Loved "natural resource"! I think I laughed out loud, along with "contact lenses made of meat"! Gold, Pete... gold.
Magill (Paris)
OMG A New Yorker living in Paris for 30 years... NYC pizza is one of the things I miss the most. Paris may be on everyone’s bucket list for the food orgy... but not me.
Corkpop (Reims)
Me too. France has great cuisine but there is no equivalent of a New York slice. Perhaps if I were younger I would delve into kebab culture in Paris which is becoming the go to street food for this generation. When I go home to NY I always have a slice, even a forlorn reheated number in Penn Station eases my pizza jones.
Dee Erker (Brooklyn)
No mention of L and B Spumoni Gardens? They have been around for decades putting cheese on first. For shame
Wolf (Tampa, FL)
It's nice when Mr. Wells decides to review food of the common people. But this review isn't very good -- most likely not as good as the slices. It's not fun, at all. And it's not very informative. Great, you found a place that makes good slices. One place. In all of New York City. This whole piece could be -- and probably should be -- two or three paragraphs in a more useful piece about good slices in New York. Mr. Wells must have needed an easy week. I look forward to what he does next with the free time from this review.
Marc Kagan (NYC)
Sicilian pizza: L & B Spumoni Gardens. Duh.
Henry B (New York, NY)
Wow - was not thinking this cat would get out of the bag but here it is - reviewed by Pete Wells of the Times no less. Oh well, it was nice having this place to ourselves while it lasted.
dannyboy (Manhattan)
I LOVE Mama's Too!
Paul Shindler (NH)
"It may sound as if I approached this slice with cool, analytical detachment. The truth is I ripped into it like a pack of hyenas." You have to love Pete Wells writing. Frank Bruni is a pretty tough act to follow, but Pete does a superb job.
Jim (NH)
after that glowing review...is that just one star?
TurandotNeverSleeps (New York)
@Jim - agree with you that Wells goes on and on, and then gives this great joint a one star! Once again proving that it's all about Pete's bloviating. Give the pizza man a break - at least TWO stars for being able to make food that photographs so well readers want to eat their iPads.
Chris B (Boston, MA)
According to Dave Portnoy (El Pres) it's only a 6.8
East/West (Los Angeles)
@Chris B - Dave Portnoy is a lot of fun to watch, but let's face it, he really doesn't know pizza. His favorite is John's and he didn't get the beauty of a Sicilian at Spumoni Gardens. He couldn't even pronounce Spumoni Gardens.
DCBinNYC (The Big Apple)
And no utensils, Mr. Mayor. Yeesh!
joseph gmuca (phoenix az)
@DCBinNYC Send Mayor Bill back to Harvadh or whatever white man ruling class joint from which he emerged.
Dump Drumpf (Jersey)
Pete, crayfish? On a NY slice? Are other aberrations like kale and on your pies. With a name like Tuttolomondo the pizza has a head start on 1* and surprised it's not 2.
TurandotNeverSleeps (New York)
@Dump Drumph: yes, since Tuttolomondo literally means "the whole world" in Italian.
Mat (Come)
How can you mention north Brooklyn and not mention Roberta’s who predates the 2010 revival you mention and whom all pizza enthusiasts can agree that without them there would be no pauly G’s or any other “neo classical” slice.
KGS (New York City)
@Mat He's talking about slice joints.
Passion for Peaches (Blue State)
I so want a slice of this pizza right now! Here in California Italian restaurant in my community serves thin-crust pizzas that are sodden, flaccid and undercooked in the center, and the Sicialan owner insists they are that way because they are done in the Sicilian style. Um...no. We get many things right out here, but pizza is rarely one of them.
Larry (NY)
Why would anyone wanting to enjoy a “New York slice” go to New Haven, use walnuts, or, God forbid, use Newman’s Own on frozen dough? Va’ fa Napoli!
peter (texas)
No one here understands when I talk about the pizza in New York City....
Joyce (AZ)
Same in Arizona, and they think I’m crazy when I tell them I drive an hour for a real slice.
J K Griffin (Colico, Italy)
The description sounds correct for an authentic pizza, but the picture suggests overcooking. I've yet to eat a pizza in the USA that can compare favorably to the good Italian made pizzas, whether in the south or the north, or prepared by pizzaioli Napolitani, northerners, or even Egyptians (who have abandoned making the crap considered pizza in Egypt).
Marge Keller (Midwest)
"The truth is I ripped into it like a pack of hyenas." "The other squares tend to be white pies with toppings." I do believe I have found a kindred spirit in Pete Wells and his enjoyment of pepperoni pizza, thin slice. Every Friday is pizza night at our house and I truly rip into each slice like a hyena. So comforting to know that there are others out there who feel and enjoy a similar experience to my own when it comes to this particular food group. There is no such thing as a bad pizza slice - some are just better than others. Fantastic review Mr. Wells. This was probably my favorite. Thanks for making me smile.
Suzanne Fass (Upper Upper Manhattan)
@Marge Keller Oh yes, there IS such a thing as a bad pizza slice: 1) Dough like white bread, not given enough time to rise and develop flavor; overnight is the absolute minimum, longer is better. Also flaccid crusts that cannot fully support whatever is spread on them. 2) Too much cheap cheese, dripping oil but adding no flavor. 3) Too-sweet tomato sauce, and too much of it. 4) Too much topping that, again, adds no flavor (cheap sausage, canned mushrooms, etc.). 5) Gimmicky toppings that do not complement the basics of dough, cheese, and simple sauce. Any one of those makes for a bad slice, imo, although it might still be edible if I'm hungry enough. More than one makes the slice inedible for me.
Marge Keller (Midwest)
@Suzanne Fass Ms. Fass - I must confess for you got me. There are two well known brand name frozen pizzas which I would not eat, even if I were starving. I guess frozen pizza and bad pizza could go hand in hand, as it slides off the cuff. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. You are spot on with the examples given.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ Suzanne Fass Upper Upper Manhattan Wholehearted applause to you. You are listing all the ingredients used by the imitators of denatured pizzas.
Phil (Philadelphia)
Why oh why did I have to read this after a perfectly dismal Marie Callendar's sweet and sour chicken dinner? Convenient, but I live too far away to partake of the sublime pizza described so well in this piece. For once, I envy city dwellers....
Oliver (Inwood)
$3.50 for a regular slice, that is not inexpensive!
Andy (Salt Lake City, Utah)
High-minded? I find it hard to believe the author has spent serious time exploring pizzerias. Pizza is bread. Of course sauce is a topping. The essential component though is the dough. Baking bread well is much harder than toasting cheese. Granted, a decent marinara is an admirable quality in a slice. As noted though, sauce is optional. So is cheese and oil for that matter. You need to get the bread right or you don't have a slice. The most commonly repeated mistakes are too much flour or too much salt. Flour gives you that gross chalky taste. Salt absorbs water but salt makes the a dough a dense and unforgiving mass. Most of the problem though is pizzolis are baking in relatively uncontrolled conditions. Brick ovens are actually preferable. Open and closing a gas oven door is way more inconsistent than a decently built brick oven. The semolina also adds a unique flavor and texture to the pie you won't find elsewhere. The other problem is the ubiquitous slice pie. The pizza business model is primarily built on reheating pre-cooked pizza. At 1:00 in the morning after the bar closes, $1 slices from old pies are a welcome treat. When you come in for dinner, a lunch-old slice pie at $2.50 before toppings begins to seem unreasonable. Sit down places are built on the principle that you're going to sit and wait for your pizza to get baked fresh. Personally, I've been digging the food trucks lately. Gourmet pizza made to order. It's still oven baked but they do a good job.
Oui, Chef (NJ)
@Andy One doesn't use semolina for pizza. I prefer a reheated slice over a right-out-of-the-oven pie. Has to do with moisture redistribution and not scorching my mouth.
Jay Amberg (Neptune, N.J. )
Pete Wells dosen t know much about Pizzerias? That's pretty funny a New Yorker who doesn't know much about pizzas. I love a good joke. Thanks!
JL (Upper West Side)
I really liked this place in my neighborhood. Thanks Pete. Now the prices will double and long lines of Millennials and "foodies" will prevent me from getting a decent slice. Go back downtown already!
Scott (NYC)
I tried Mama's on 104th, didn't like it. Found it to be very bready. Sal's is still better by a lot. If I really want to treat myself I head up to Yonkers and buy a Pepe's medium with the fresh clams.
MyOpinion (NYC)
@Scott Sal's in the 70s and 80s, later known as 'Sal and Carmine's' was wonderful when it was run by those two brothers. Having lived on the UWS for 42 years, I ate many a slice from their ovens. They made their own dough for years, at least when their shop was in the mid-90s. The smell when you walked in was mouth-watering. When they moved ten blocks north, I think they started buying their dough from the Mob, for whatever reason, don't ask, but a slice was still pretty good. I miss them and their pizza.
dannyboy (Manhattan)
@MyOpinion My previous Comment was "dannyboy ManhattanNov. 6 I LOVE Mama's Too!" Now I gotta' add that I LOVE Sal & Carmine's!
MyOpinion (NYC)
@Scott Sal's in the 1970s and 80s, later known as 'Sal and Carmine's' was wonderful when it was run by those two brothers. Having lived on the UWS for 42 years, I ate many a slice from their ovens. They made their own dough for years, at least when their Broadway shop was located in the mid-90s. The smell when you walked in was mouth-watering. When they moved ten blocks north, I think they started buying their dough from the Mob, for whatever reason, don't ask, but a slice was still pretty good. I miss them and their pizza.
fritz (nyc)
Great article. But what is an Upper East Side person to do? Any suggestions for great pizza in the 60s or 70s neighborhoods?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ fritz nyc Only to venture bravely into other neighborhoods.
NA (NYC)
@fritz "Any suggestions for great pizza in the 60s or 70s neighborhoods?" Take the crosstown M66 bus to Broadway and transfer to the M104 up to this place. I ate here today. It's worth the trip.
James (Boston, MA)
They were making delicious pizza this same way (sauce on top of cheese) in 1996 at California Pizza Oven (not Kitchen) on University Place between 12th and 13th Sts. Also brick oven. They even opened a second location but closed in perhaps the early 2000s, if I remember correctly. I ate lunch there almost every weekday for over a year. I have never had a better slice.
Grace Thorsen (Syosset NY)
A good slice of pizza (or two) would be my choice for a last meal..
LM (NYC)
This is in my neighborhood and the slices are to die for. He makes a square mushroom slice that is divine. The pepperoni is also excellent. Small, quaint place. It's a gem and a welcome addition.
George Moseley (Cambridge)
Some years ago, in Cambridge MA, a place called Bel Canto sold a pizza with broccoli and walnuts. It was outstanding. For more recent creativity, check out the Pizza Research Institute in Eugene OR.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
@ George Moseley Cambridge Thank you for the reference to Pizza Research Institute in Eugene, Ore. I am afraid of the recipes of such institutions whose mission is to promote the product by adding to it more and Moe of weird and incompatible ingredients. E.g., the broccoli and walnuts that you cite.
Kevin (Commack, NY)
As I recall, John's in the village always put the cheese on first, then added the sauce. This isn't new.
Yogasong (Boston)
For the best, take the less than 2 hr. Metro-North train to New Haven, hop a cab and go the mile or so to Wooster St. Pepe's or Sally's will do you just fine.
Bob (Bronx, NY)
@Yogasong There's a branch of Pepe's in Yonkers, NY. It's a much shorter ride than to New Haven and the pizza is very nice.
NA (NYC)
@Yogasong Modern on State Street is worth a visit as well. No pretentious “only the master can make the pizzas” attitude at any of these places (Di Fara, eg). They make hundreds of pizzas every night, they’re all great, and you don’t have to wait three hours. It’s pizza, for goodness sakes.
MRDT (NYC)
We are lucky enough to live in the neighborhood! I was just there today, in fact. It's fantastic to see them get this kind of recognition. My favorite is the slice with the vodka sauce. It is pure pizza heaven! Try it next time you're in.
East/West (Los Angeles)
@MRDT - Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a worthy slice that has vodka sauce on it.
Will Schmidt perlboy (on a ranch 6 miles from Ola, AR)
The nearest town with a decent pizzeria is 70 miles away (Little Rock), so I make my own, and you too can do what I do to mimic great NY pizza. Not all of us live in NY. Start with a Newman's Own 4-cheese, thin crust frozen pizza (best, by some serious comparison testing), and go from there. Adjust baking time and temp to suit (I do 440 F for 18 minutes). Be careful about spreading on tomato sauce. It could make the pizza too moist. A little goes a long way, just as explained in this piece, and globs rather than a complete layer works well. I even add a fifth cheese, grated Romano. Sprinkle on oregano generously. Slice Pepperoni very thin and saute crumbled Italian sausage first after removing from its case. Add whatever else appeals (mushrooms, onions, sliced olives, sliced sweet red pepper, etc. Enjoy.
Mary Ann (New York City)
@Will Schmidt perlboy Your version sounds good! and the ingredients are in your refrigerator and pantry. Thank you for your kindness in providing a specific recipe.
Tammi (Maine)
It takes 5 minutes to make thin-crust pizza dough from scratch. I'm a lover of shortcuts, but buying a frozen pizza is like buying brownie mix: why?
Will Schmidt perlboy (on a ranch 6 miles from Ola, AR)
@Tammi You may be able to make thin crust in five minutes but I can't. And Newman's Own is not brownie mix. It's a good base on which to do whatever moves you. All profits to charity, too. Try it before you say something about which you don't have personal knowledge.
Locho (New York)
This is one of the best written food reviews I've ever read. Pizza became poetry.
Diane L. (Los Angeles, CA)
If I ever won the Mega Millions or Power Ball, I would pay for someone to move to the west coast to open up a place where I could buy authentic NY Pizza.
boourns (Nyc)
@Diane L. Yes, pizza in the southland is almost uniformly underwhelming. I’ve enjoyed slices at Delicious Pizza in Hollywood, though.
jose (San Juan)
I tried on a visit there A Slice of NY in San Jose, which I enjoyed. There must be several others, but I don't know since I do not live even close by, and California is huge.
Dump Drumpf (Jersey)
Pizzeria Mozza is legit
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
A long awaited, encyclopedic coverage of New York pizza parlors. The product of Mama's Too, "The bulge of crust at the edge of what Mama’s Too calls the “house slice” is brown, more rough than smooth and baked to a ferocious crackle", is just as I love it. In my home-made pizza, tomatoes and/or tomato source are taboo, but sliced mushrooms and green olives are added generously. I am against the habitual way of eating pizza with one's hands, as shown in one of the linked articles. It is a course that clearly requires fork and sharp knife.
ny dad (NYC)
@Tuvw Xyz no pizza for you you should be put in Pizza Prison, or made to eat only in Pizza Hut or Uno's put down that fork and knife
DJ (Yonkers)
@Tuvw Xyz In New York we use our hands. No deep-dish fork and knife needed; you bite or tear off a piece with your hands cuz the crust is as thin as the credit card you gotta use to pay for it.
mg (Upstate)
@Tuvw Xyz....knife and fork? Seriously???