I'm not sure if anyone mentioned this yet, but there is a mistake in the spelling of one of the restaurants, both in the text and in the picture caption. It should be Yanyali Fehmi Lokantasi (not Lokansi).
Really enjoyed the piece and many of these places I've been to, as I live in Uskudar.
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@Zamira Skalkottas
Hi, you beat me to it. I was going to do that. :)
Reporter neglected to mention that T-Mobile users do not have to buy foreign data SIM cards in most countries. Over the last few years we have used TM in 13 different countries for everything from unlimited text, to several Gigs of data and 25 cent/min. calling. Perfect for reading email and using Google Maps.
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I visited Turkey many years ago. The tour guide warned everyone the first night in the country to use bottled water even to brush one's teeth. Have things changed? I doubt it as illegal construction all over the place was rampant and without functioning sewers. Despite the warning, a number of people were not vigilant and several ended up in the hospital; dehydrated from diarrhea. You can eat fruit that you can peel easily or get rid of the rind...even so care should be taken. That said, I loved Turkey but I would still be wary of ongoing political repression and answering terrorism.
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you’d think that journalists would not support a regime that puts journalists in jail for reporting the facts. But then again that includes China and arguably a lot of other places where freedom of the media is abridged. Taken to extremes there aren’t many safe places. Singapore? Not really. The Maldives? Nope. Certainly not Russia. But we can vote with our travel dollars and spend them to support societies that reflect our values. Sure Turkey today is a bargain thanks to the tanking currency vs the dollar but I’m not returning any time soon.
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Cemilzade might be best known for its Turkish Delight, but one should not leave without trying the almond and pistachio paste bites. They're so flavorful and not overly sweet - simply heaven!
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I love Istanbul. I have been twice. In 2007 and in 2015. I did notice a change in the atmosphere. In 2015, people seemed more guarded and cautious. I also noticed more women wearing headscarves. Still the food, scenery, history and culture was amazing. I could spend hours just watching the ships and boat traffic in the Bosporus. Visiting Kadikoy was a true treat.
I hope to return soon.
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Kuzguncuk is a nearby "village" a 10 minute bus ride on the #15, or 30 minute walk from Uskudar main square [meydan]. It retains the authenticity of "Old Istanbul" with artisanal bakers, cafes, coffee shops, markets and butchers, and boutiques all on the main leafy green street, Icadiye Caddesi [street]. Unique for two synagogues, an Armenian chuch, Greek church, and one mosque. Worth a day of of your time, and where I chose to live in Istanbul.
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I have lived on the Asian side for 18 years. Don't miss taking the ferry to Burgozada for dining and atmosphere. The restaurant Barba Yani is the best.
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it is always nice to have a map to show the area being discussed.
Like most visitors to Istanbul, I focused on the two European sections (Sultan Ahmet, Beyoglu) which are full of history and culture. The Asian side seemed like it had a lot to offer but mainly was on the way to get to Sabiha Gökçen Airport. Thanks to this article, I have some idea about the things that I would like to see on the other side of the Bosporus.
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I loved this area when I visited a few years ago. And Ciya Sofrasi is amazing.
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It would really, really be useful if these articles would quote all prices in dollars or euros. Do I really want to run to my adding machine to figure out how much this or that costs in my money???
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Lucas Peterson, THANK YOU for the article and specifically, The My Dora Hotel. When I looked into that hotel's website and virtual tour, I was smitten with the place! It reminded me of a little out of the way Hotel in a quiet residential area of Rome, in the early 1980's which my very first stay in a foreign country. I'm looking forward to getting to the My Dora Hotel and exploring the areas around it. Thanks so much!
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The area is fascinating and beautiful - and the best: not touristy at all. People are incredibly warm and helpful. And do go to the Princes' Islands during the week. Car free with amazing views. The ride by public ferry from Kadikoy or the European side is a meditative experience on its own.
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Very good article. Really captures the spirit of the place. The people also are very nice and, in my experience, quite honest.
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It would be nice if the exchange rates in the article were straightened out. In one paragraph we have 0.22 or 0.15 USD to 1 TRY and 260 TRY to 39 USD. The last time I checked it was about 6.25 TRY to 1 USD.
I really enjoyed reading this travel piece. After going to a smaller, hidden city in Spain called Alicante, I have learned to appreciate these less-known, but still amazing areas. I hope to be able to travel and find some more of these areas one day, especially exploring Kadikoy.
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As much as I loved my visits to Instabul and Cappadocia, I can't in all honesty endorse tourism in a country that has imprisoned journalists and clamped down egregiously on freedoms.
Bargain hunters should look at what there bargains are really buying.
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Life is green and blue and beautiful in Kadikoy - thank you for sharing.
And that hamam in Kadikoy is called aziziye hamam by the way!
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Istanbul is a wondrous city, and a heaven for foodies and shoppers. The population is overwhelmingly warm a kind too. This piece captures the joys of roaming the neighborhoods of Istanbul on either side. Don't forget a ferry ride or two as well to savor the city from the water.
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I stayed at the reasonably-priced Hotel Zirve in Kadikoy. It was ideally close to the ferries and the shops, and was very walkable.
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Nobody who values democracy should contribute one cent of their tourist dollars to a country currently run by a one-man authoritarian despot, the islamofascist Erdogwan.
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@Jacob handelsman We're all aware of the political problems facing Turkey at present, and running into that particular leader would not be on my itinerary while there. But Turkey is NOT it's leader, just like America is not representative of the current person sitting (alone in the dark) in The White House. Regarding Democracy, Jacob...'Glass Houses'.
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@Jacob handelsman President Erdogan - note the corrected spelling - is an elected leader who came to power through the ballot box, staying in power through the ballot box and has the support of the majority of his countrymen.
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@Jacob handelsman by your logic, people should avoid coming to the US, where our leader has disparaged democracy since he came into office, and his infantile tweets clearly show his authoritarian streak.
One can separate the government from the people. Buying goods at local markets, as is emphasized in this article, helps to ensure that the lira go to the locals, and not to government.
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Umm, small but significant error: The article says "the exchange rate has moved drastically in favor of the dollar since I visited (from roughly 0.22 Turkish lira to the dollar to 0.15)." That, if true, would be a change in favor of the lira not the dollar, making travel more expensive. But the author is right in that the lira has suffered against the dollar making travel cheaper. The exchange rate is not what the article mentions but roughly 6.25 Turkish lira to the dollar (or 0.16 dollars to the Turkish lira). Be careful, exchange rates can be confusing.
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The exchange rate you quote in the third paragraph is the wrong way around: it's currently about .15 dollar to the lira, not lira per dollar.
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Great piece. I would just add a trip to the Hammam (Turkish bath). On this side of town, they cost a fraction of what one has to pay in the touristy areas.
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@Amit
And I'd also highly recommend seeing the Whirling Dervishes. I went to the Galata Mevlevi Museum and it was the highlight of my trip.
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