Iceland sounds like a great place to visit and take a vacation.
But, Iceland kills whales. This barbarism alone will deter me from ANY kind of economic support.
I have been to your 52 places, my advice on Iceland... why bother?
The Golden circle is akin to Disney land.
The rest of the island is monotony after a few days. Oh yes the first waterfalls take your breath away but then...
Yes the ponies are fun, if you can ride, I mean really ride and not walk nose to tail like most rides.
Hotels are iffy, everyone camping out looks like they escaped the apocalypse, and the food is pricey and okay.
There are trolls if you know where to look ( frozen as rocks in the daylight) and the whole country smells like fish.
So go to Rochester in winter for the same experience, including the Northern Lights and Icelandic ponies and good hotdogs.
Visiting Iceland 12 times since the turn of this century has always made me feel like I was visiting a different planet. Not anymore. About a month ago during a stopover in Iceland while returning from Amsterdam, I found that Iceland has lost its charm for me because I lost a great Icelandic collaborator a few years ago and because of the volume of tourists that visit Iceland even during the beginning of its winters. I did not see the N. Lights but that was not what bothered me. What bothered me was the lack of a hint of the sun even hiding behind clouds would have sufficed. The highlight of my trip was reconnecting with the family of my late dear friend and teaming up to cook a dinner with main course being fresh Icelandic fish, GEGGZA with fresh vegetables and herbs and spices from the well stocked kitchen shelf of my host.
Not knowing that Icelandic grocery stores have become like American and European grocery stores, I had carried shredded Mexican 4 cheeses to make chicken quesadilla with local roast chicken and bulgogi jerky meat as appetizer, The 2nd of the 4 Sundays, before Christmas day was celebrated with a delicious dinner, nicest welcoming Icelanders and the lighting of 2 of the 4, 2 inch diameter traditional candles . Before beginning the cooking, I anticipated could take 2 hours and it was already around 8 pm by the time we picked the groceries and kids meals from KFC for the grand children of my late friend and of his brother we had the children fed first.
1
Thank you for this piece. My daughter and I were in Iceland in September. We rented a camper van and toured the country. As the writer stated, there are incredible landscapes everywhere you look. It's one of the most magical places I have ever been. It's an amazing country in so many ways and the Icelandic people we encountered on our journey were kind and welcoming. If there weren't so many other places to experience, I would visit again without hesitation.
Nice article on a beautiful country with a fascinating history and unique geology. For anyone planning a trip there, I recommend reading up on both before you visit.
One side correction, you do NOT have to pay to get close to Niagara Falls on either the US or Canadian side, unless you count fees for parking during the high season. You can just walk right up to the railings on either side. In my opinion, the Falls are best seen in mid-winter when there are piles of ice at the base of the falls and when the mist from the falls have frozen on all the trees, converting the scene into a fairy land (with no crowds).
1
Do leisure travel journalists ever worry about their carbon footprint? Do these pieces encourage more travel or decrease it by letting readers experience vicarious vacations? I used to like this stuff, but it's all starting to feel like fluffy elitist distraction.
1
There is no such thing as a 50 krona beer in Iceland (45 cents). More likely the Cellar Bar had a 500 krona special ($4.50) which is a great deal since bars and restaurants charge 1000-1200 krona for a beer (around $ 10.00) Even a single can of beer at the state run Vinbudin can cost 700 kroner ($ 6.30).
That's almost $38.00 for a 6-pack. If you're interested in serious drinking in Iceland bring some serious money.
I traveled to Iceland last summer. I was prepared for the drastic geology and the beautiful North Atlantic but did not think about the skies ahead of time. And had also not thought about the midnight sun which is energizing and makes 12 hour days tramping about the landscape very easy. The food is wonderful. The soups and breads, Icelandic butter, lamb and fish, jams, yogurt-no disappointments but very expensive. No bargains. Grocery stores do not seem to be a more economic alternative either. But I did not go there for dining though it was quite good. I went for the waterfalls, the volcanic fields, the geysers, the coastline, the volcanoes and glaciers. Swimming every day in places big and small, natural and constructed. It feels very healthy. The air is clean and the people very self sufficient and well educated and hard working. I did ride a horse-very pleasant on a misty morning through the greenest pastures and fresh little creeks and red barns in the distance. Viking houses covered in grass and wildflowers. They are people who still honor their history . Each day was quite a wonder.
We just returned from a November trip to Iceland. A beautiful, amazing, and friendly place. All of the authors’ recommendations are good. I would add one more thing, and in the form of a popular Icelandic saying: “There is no bad weather, just bad clothes.”
Fortunately, my husband and I were very well prepared and brought good clothing for the trip.
We had a wonderful time!
Was there a few years ago off season and find this to be a fairly accurate article. Gas station food might sound strange but it is actually very popular. Credit cards used for EVERYTHING. Got some cash from the ATM at the airport when we arrived and never used it. Even the coat check preferred credit cards. Internet everywhere, but get a SIM card.
We live in San Francisco and are used to paying a lot for food and drink, but were frequently surprised by the prices. $9 for a croissant at a bakery. It was a good croissant, but jeez that is stiff. If you drink (and the natives drink plenty), you might want to buy some liquor/beer/wine at the duty free shop when you land. You are forced to walk through it anyway (not just for when you are leaving).
Reykjavik is a late city on a Saturday night. We were at a party until 3am and when we left the street were packed with locals partying. Very LGBT friendly too!
1
The note about Gullfoss - in fact you absolutely can walk to the brink on Niagara Falls without charge - it’s a magnificent and even a bit scary experience, especially on the higher-volume, louder and wetter Canadian side. The ground shakes, like Gullfoss no doubt. But the author is correct that to get to the base of the falls (boat) or behind the curtain of the American side (catwalk, not the model kind), you will need to pay.
What is the cast of all the carbon emissions, though? To your/our kids I guess!
1
been going since 1969. speak the language fairly well. do house exchanges. buy in larger grocery stores, cook at home, make sandwiches for road trips. only the foreigners tip. And yes Reykjavik resembles a large cruise ship now. I stay in the suburbs. Many of the locals drink before they go to dinner, IF they go out to eat at all. Do not take a taxi. Buy a bus card. Purchase a SIM card in Reykjavik at one of the stores such a Vodofone. Lastly, always eat Fiskibollur, fish dumplings available in every store....side of potatoes....cheap and healthy.
7
Single travel is fine .. and who is going to turn down travel just because their partner can't make it or isn't interested in that trip or doesn't happen to be in Japan ..
Some tips:
Make yourself comfortable
Stick to some rituals if they make you feel more comfortable
Talk to people, your fellow tourists, shopkeepers .. maybe only 50% of people will be at all friendly, but there are lots of folks who like chatting and almost all of them are interesting in some way
Enjoy the control .. sleep in, stay at a museum in one wing for 3 hours, eat a pastry right after breakfast, whatever
Enjoy the absence of annoyances - long trips often strain relationships or just lead to be tired of each other
Allow yourself to be a bit introspective .. being somewhere new means new insights and less brooding ..
Start small, spend a day alone in a museum, eat alone at McDonalds and then maybe a restaurant, it will all seem less scary then you expect ..
Food
Personally, I believe in a bakery for bread and for pasteries
buying local meats like salami and cheeses
going to a grocery to buy fruit, veggies, snacks, beverages - buy local and reasonable in price (in Alaska the only cheap food was salmon and cabbage, everything else is barged in, might be same for Iceland).
I am sure Reykavik has cheap local eats
Lunch may be cheap or specials or local shops
Eat local, not tourist food
If food is expensive or unappealing, splurge at home or on next trip to Paris ..
3
@Innovator
I think the perhaps you have not been there yet. There was no cheap local food. Perhaps they practice one of those secret dual pricing systems -locals half price -but they seem quite honest. In a suburban grocery store a block of cheddar which might have been $7 or so in the states was marked $29.00. Fruit is very expensive as the climate does not support growing it. Fish is good and often the least expensive menu item but that means $15 for fish and chips. I saw no beef cattle but there are abundant sheep and goats. Anyway it was very lovely every day . You can always bring a box of crackers and a jar of peanut butter from the states for lunch. Choose a hotel that serves a nice breakfast. Share at dinner as the servings are generous. For those who are upset about the whale hunting; I am also horrified that they serve horse foal. But it is a culture with a long history. I presume they practice sustainable harvesting.
I loved Iceland so otherworldly, unlike any place on earth with so much variety packed in such a small area.
Is true solo traveling can get piercingly lonely sometimes but it is also a time when one can be reflective, being "quiet" while constantly in motion.
When you have yourself to rely on, you know what you're capable of.
2
Standing with one leg on the Eurasian Plate and the other on the North American Plate renewed my interest in geology.
7
Reference: Embracing Hot Dogs, Skipping Shark.
On sport fishing boats, sometimes a fishermen will hook a shark. Sharks swim languidly side-to-side as they are dragged to the boat, fouling other fishing lines. People weren’t interested in eating shark, so we would encourage the fisherman to cut his line.
One fisherman, only one, objected and got his shark. I asked him why he wanted it. The first shark he caught went to feed the family dog. They cooked the shark, tasted it and loved it; their dog didn’t get any.
What a great article - it brings back memories of our visit a year ago March. And that's the thing about Iceland - it's fun summer or winter. The prices are very high - but I recommend buying a bunch of carrots for when you stop to pet the ponies. I personally couldn't manage tasting the "aged" shark (AKA rotten) but all the breads were outstanding as were the soups. Iceland is easy to visit for some soft adventure in breathtaking locations.
We visited Iceland two summers ago.
We bought a 17 day package that included a car, all hotels, a cell, a GPS,lots of maps and guides, and optional side tours.
We circumnavigated the island. It was great. Not that crowded once out of Reykjavik - and we were in high season.
3
I have been to Iceland eight times in eight years, so I am an "Icelandiholic" for sure. The writers mention pricing. The summer is expensive because it is high season. It is much less expensive to travel there in the fall or spring--the shoulder seasons. I can afford to go there only because of finding deals. The people are incredible. No huge gender disparity (not perfect but a huge cut above in that regard). No military. Much geothermal energy. Yoko Ono's Peace Tower for John Lennon. The hot pots/public pools are in each town or city by law. They are not the Blue Lagoon (for tourists). Usually, for around $10 or less, you can spend as much time in the public pool and its accompanying hot pot as you like. Food. It's terrific! I'm not sure why/how the writers missed it. Thai soup. Indian food. Seafood. Luscious vegetarian and vegan food. Incredible coffee. Okay, when am I booking my next trip?
8
Iceland is one of our favorite countries to visit. Our first trip was a 2-week hiking adventure in 1991, way before Iceland was the "in" place to go. Even in 1991, it was expensive compared to other trips we had done. But we fell in love with it. Fast forward to 2005 for another 2-week hiking trip with friends from both Germany and the U.S., including two whom we met on the original 1991 trip - an even better experience! This time, we hiked in the Northwest Fjords and Landmannalaugar, both of which exceeded our expectations and are what brought us back for this 2nd time. We were back again for New Year's Eve 2006/2007 and stayed with local Reykjavik friends for a week. This was a completely different experience, including the most amazing fireworks display we have ever seen. BTW, we saw the Northern Lights for 2 nights during the 2nd trip -- early September -- and none at all in December/January! The country is stunningly scenic, and the people are friendly. Go with your eyes open (expensive) and plan accordingly. We found fairly reasonable places to eat in Reykjavik in 1991 and 2005, but we also budgeted for the times we'd need to spend more if we had to (which we did). Can't go wrong with experiencing Iceland, a country with wonderful people and scenery and which also has an "interesting" (to say the least) Pirate Political Party, and jailed the corrupt Icelandic bankers in the 2008 financial meltdown (don't we wish??!!!).
4
What a great idea to see the 52 Places column beefed up with the addition of Lucas Peterson's Frugal Traveler contributions!
Is it possible the two columns, Lucas' and Jada's, might be merged? Seems to make sense; no reason a travel column can't or shouldn't include tips on frugality.
5
Wonderful series with great photography. Many thanks.
5
How nice seeing the two travelers together. Kindred spirits — I hope they cross paths more often!
6
Been there twice: once in '68 as a stopover flying Icelandair propjet from NY to Luxembourg (didn't everyone?) and once three years ago.
Besides the scenery, I wish the writers had commented on the culture and people. Forthright, practical and just lovely. I want to go back: still haven't seen the Northern Lights and January in Iceland is often warmer than here in Central Virginia.
3
I spent 2 weeks in Iceland right before the economy blew up in 2008. (as in, banks froze while we were flying home, and the trip became even cheaper as some credit card transactions were never processed at all, and the ones that were showed more and more favorable exchange rates as they trickled in).
Snaefellnes peninsula was lovely. Some of my favorite random things were the very boldly designed churches we saw in many places, like in Stykkisholmur, and all the roadside dedications to famous poets. I thought any land that has more monuments to poetry than battles is a place with a soul I admire (in addition to all of the natural beauty, which is astounding).
14
I used to go on business in the ‘90’s, before the financial crisis. Mostly met with the bankers, who were quite full of themselves. I went to the restaurant where they serve whale (there’s only one), and puffin (both tasty, while there, I was hit up for a free meal by the herditary King of Reykjavik).
Didn’t get very far out of Reykjavik. An amazing place. Volcanoes beneath glaciers, standing with one foot on Europe and the other in N America, unusual ideas on sexual relations, as explained to me by my seat mate on the flight over Etc etc.
Given that gas station snacks, hot dogs and ice cream was the extent of one of author's Icelandic cuisine, I don't believe describing the food as underwhelming is fair. I was just in Iceland, and I had a marvelous dining experience, albeit expensive. Seafood was great and many restaurants managed to fuse Icelandic cuisine with others nicely.
24
Luckily I visited Iceland in 2005 -before the tourist hoards arrived. It's a beautiful country - Akureryi in the north is well worth a visit. The people were friendly, the history and geology fascinating, and yes even then the prices astounding. However, well worth it. Get outside of Reykjavik and the "Golden Circle" and you will enjoy the trip even more.
5
In the film the writer is seen walking on the moss (3:48). Walking on or otherwise damaging the moss is strictly forbidden in Iceland; the moss is fragile and can take decades to grow back. I would expect a writer for the NY Times to be aware of this and respect the rules intended to protect their environment. Surprising and disappointing.
20
Been there, done (too little of) that. Now I want to go there and do that all over again and again to 52+ places in Iceland alone. Four days seems cruelly short!
Awesome country, people, culture and soccer players!
Clever Vikings - calling the mossy green island 'Iceland' while the white and ice-bound (for now) land to the west, 'Greenland' - which would you rather invade?
Iceland is cheap for the privilege of experiencing it.
11
pet peeve for both of you:
Please give values in dollars or euros; who knows the value of Icelandic currency by memory??
7
In one of my trips, I stayed for the most part in Akureyri, the second city of Iceland in the far north. It's much underrated. Along with the town's local offerings and local hiking, there are also several wonderful nearby excursions. Lake Myvatn is an unusually haunting body of water with its own blue lagoon and spa.
Another very memorable experience was visiting Grimsey Island. I took the early morning bus to Dalvik to catch the three hour ride by ferry to the island. The first hour of the trip revealed some of the most beautiful fjords in the world (comparable to the Norwegian coast and the Saguenay River in Quebec). The last two two hours were a nausea-defying ride through the open Arctic Ocean. The island itself was beautiful, its 68 people more than hospitable and the hiking was great. I made a point of being there on 11/11 which is Willard Fiske Day on the island. It was a pleasure to meet the kids at elementary school talk about their interests and tell them my travel stories.
To make a long story short, not all that is Iceland is in or near Reykjavik. I found ready friends in the north among university students, local merchants, Russian freight workers on leave and especially children. Visit Akureyri and especially try the local cuisine. It actually is tastier than the article let on.
7
I was in Iceland for a month last year. This story brings back many memories. Knowing the price of food issue (a pizza cost $42), I went to Sam's Club & filled my suitcase with pistachios and breakfast bars. The lagoons are cool but simply taking a shower anywhere will clear up your skin. My eczema disappeared! Highly recommend public pools. The one in Blonduos has a slide. I laughed louder than I've laughed in years going down that slide. Truthfully, Iceland is now too crowded. Go later in the year, you've got something special. Take something for your eyes if you going in summer as it's daylight for all but one hour in summer. See the Museum of Prophecies in Skagaströnd. Get a "cocktail" reading from aging Icelandic women who, apparently, for years have read palms before their men go out to sea. If you have kids, they will love the house in Hveragerdi that simulates the 2008 earthquake. Best foo: caramel covered doughnuts and egg sandwiches at the rest stops. The food is so fresh, my stomach had trouble adjusting when I returned to the states. I mailed presents to new Icelandic friends. For the first time, saw the USPS asking me if I had meat in my package! Those Icelanders are determined to keep their livestock/food supply safe! Loved Opera House for jazz, Museum of Photography and Bio Paradis art house in Reykjavik.
4
But no mention of the illegal whale harvesting. I guess it would be a downer. https://eia-international.org/iceland-flouts-international-ban-slaughter...
25
Iceland is currently violating the International Whaling Commission (IWC) guidelines for hunting Fin Whales,(Balaenoptera physalu), the second largest species on earth. The can live between 25 and 100 years. The whale is listed as a species of special concern under the Species at Risk Act. There is only one company in Iceland that hunts this whale and the product is only for export to ...Japan. The company that is allowed to hunt the whales, Hvalur hf., is owned by Kristjan Loftsson, one of the wealthiest men in Iceland. I urge all to boycott Iceland until this practice is outlawed. You can read about this here: http://uk.whales.org/news/2018/04/icelandic-fin-whale-hunting-to-resume and also about Fin Whales here: https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/fin-whale
32
I thought that the Japanese have trouble getting rid of their own caches of whale meat form their own "scientific research studies".
2
@RAZ Iceland was also the first country in the world to ban comercial whaling in 1915 on the basis of overexploitation. The founding principle of icelandi uses of natural resources is sustainability.
1
Anyone else have Verizon cell reception problems? Thanks! (Leaving in 3 days!)
Had a wi-fi hotspot in our rental car...Verizon reception was fine. Used Google maps to navigate everywhere through the east, south, west and Westfjords for 9 days.
We're in Iceland now...Sprint works great!
I'm all for travel, but how do you account for the carbon considering climate change?
1
Sail, as the Vikings did it. Carbon neutral if you buy a used sailing yacht and never use the engine.
If the wind dies down, do as the Vikings did - have the crew row!
Best way to travel.
2
Just live your life, try not to worry, and have fun. :-)
Best of luck, Fernando.
2
Having been to Iceland many times over the years our most recent trip in Feb will be our last. It is too overwhelmed now and has lost its appeal. It is now a go to once sort of place just to experience it. The prices are simply outrageous. Maybe you'll get a cheap airfare but prepare for higher than Tokyo prices. A few things- I don't recommend renting a car unless it is summertime, for it is very dangerous with the ice, wind and snow, something they have a lot of. The other is the Noodle Station for inexpensive eats, huge bowls of tasty, piping hot, yummy Asian ramen for about 15 USD. Book as much as you can in advance due to now higher tourist demand. And remember that you can't view the Aurora Borealis most often due to consistent cloud cover and storms. Always prepare for bad weather when visiting.
9
And you can't see the Northern lights in the summer, when the sun is up almost all night!
7
Much better chance of seeing the Northern Lights in Norway than Iceland.
2
What an amazing country Iceland is! I'll jump on a plane for a third visit as soon as the next opportunity comes along.
1
I expected to love Iceland but somehow it left me cold. It's basically a barren volcanic island with astronomical prices, how about $20 for a very small bowl of soup. P.S. Some dope stole my hotel towel at the outdoor swimming pool.
1
One tip: If you have a Costco membership, you can stock up on food and gas before your road trip at the Costco in Reykjavik.
9
And you can bring up to 1 liter alcohol... we saved hundreds :)
4
More scenic views, less focus on the travelers.
That's what I was thinking when I watched this.
It's hard to listen to someone complain about having to travel.
24
Glad you mentioned the hot dogs. Icelanders put the condiments in the bun first, then add the "dog" -- brilliant, and a lot less messy.
Middle Earth came to mind -- a lot -- as we traveled the ring road.
I'd love to see it at the summer solstice.
I hope they've opened a few laundromats since we were there in 2009. When we ran out of clean clothes we had to wash them in guesthouse sinks. So pack enough clothing to last at least a week.
As far as scenery and mountains are concerned , Alaska is about 100 times better. ICELAND is more hype. Would not rank it high.
3
What?! Alaska has mosquitoes. Iceland has no bugs (except those pesky midges around some areas but they don’t bite). Both places have vastly beautiful and pristine and extreme landscapes. But to say that Iceland is somehow less so is really missing the mark. Plus Iceland has women in its population - much easier for a woman to travel alone in Iceland without feeling like she’s the only one around of her kind.
3
Iceland is pure MAGIC! The people there are so open as well. They happen to be one of the top READING nations in the world. Always a plus in my book. Intelligence matters. It fosters empathy and deep humanity for the earth and other human beings that share it with us.
7
Was there for two weeks in April, 2017 - the "shoulder season". I would not go again.
The "industrial tourism" machine has taken root and the place is heavily over-promoted and over-loved. Yes, it is a huge landscape and there is a ton of back country to explore but the volume of people being funneled through is insane.
Many places are starting to look like Disneyland and the quiet and serenity is gone - huge tour buses in the national parks - think Yosemite on Sunday afternoon and you get the idea.
The attraction is that you essentially have Alaskan landscape but with full automobile access to everything. Want to enjoy that waterfall, glacier or bay? Drive right up and hop out of your Land Cruiser and snap away with your Iphone. But be prepared to fight off the hordes to take a look, and never mind those pesky drones circling overhead.
Another case of paradise lost, I'm afraid.
11
Absolutely agree 100%. There is a local backlash towards tourist as well. It's become difficult for the Icelandic people to enjoy their lives in Reykjavik with the crowds and overwhelming presence of foreign visitors. A Waikiki kind of vibe. Lost its Aloha spirit ages ago.
6
Here right now. It really isn’t crowded at all. Yes, you see tour buses, but we haven’t waited in any lines, or been in traffic back-ups. Seen one drone—they are explicitly prohibited in most places. If you are expecting to have many world-class sights to yourself, you will be disappointed, but compared to other tourist destinations, it is really very pleasant.
2
For a real treat: visit middle of January, outdoor geothermal pool soaking, and brilliant northern lights. Less sunlight, more cold, less crowds...
8
Re:"moonscape"
The two reporters are probably too young to remember but when we were training our astronauts to walk on the moon, they were taken to Iceland as it was felt that it had the terrain most similar to it.
Also, Iceland obviously has breathtaking natural beauty (not mentioned is Geyser where the name for that thing in Yellowstone Park originated from) but it also has a very vibrant arts scene. It is the country with the highest literacy rate in the world.
7
I'm glad some other readers have already commented about the whale hunting problem. It would have been helpful if the authors had explained why there "ultimately weren't sure it that was something they wanted to support." I recently read that whale meat is not even typically consumed by Icelandic people anymore-- it's for the tourists. And a nit: the Blue Lagoon is not a public pool; it's an expensive, for-profit resort that uses water discharged from an adjacent power plant . (This info comes from a great piece in your own newspaper a few years ago by Dan Kois at https://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/24/magazine/icelands-water-cure.html I recommend one of the public pools in Reykjavik as an alternative. I went to the Laugardaslaug pool, which was easy to reach by bus.
7
This me of a trip I took with my then boyfriend 46 years ago in a rental VW bug. Some of the roads required fording streams in the car. We ate lots of fish and camped in farmers' fields. There were no crowds anywhere.
4
It’s truly a magical place. I’ve been twice, the first time going around the country and the second time renting a house on a field of wild thyme and blueberries by a river. Highly recommend a trip to the Westman islands, it’s a full day but totally worth it. You can pet Toti the tame puffin at the oceanic museum and take a boat ride than ends in an acoustical cave with the captain playing his saxophone. Icelanders are a friendly and quirky people!
I just got back from a 2 week "bucket list" tour of Island in early June, before the summer solstice but never really dark, a trip first conceived in 1975 after representing Iceland in a Model United Nations.
Absolutely fantastic place, dramatic scenery everywhere with fjords, volcanic craters and mountains, lava filled moonscapes, and playful lambs galore. (Most common refrain running through my head was "Mary had a little lamb." It got so bad I downloaded "Lord of the Rings" to counteract the tendency. One can see bits of the Shire in the sod houses, ponies, and clean small villages one encounters; as well as Mordor in the desolate lava fields."
Late May was a good time to be there. Plenty of daylight, and not so far into the summer that snow had melted from the cliffs not covered by glaciers.
I'd recommend renting a camper van. It adds some flexibility. Would also strongly encourage people to visit the Myvatn region. Absolutely fascinating geologically.
The Icelandic people care for their natural gifts with great care. And that's throughout the entire country. Their cities are cleaner than our national parks. WE have much to learn.
3
We visited Iceland in December last year and enjoyed 5 days of great weather. We spent our shortened days arcing out on the ring road in both directions each day, marveling how accessible everything was. My brother's commented that he could cross off Alaska from his bucket list now. What surprised us most, was the intensity of the sun above 62 degrees latitude, so don't forget your sunglasses. At night, we went north of Reykjavik and inland on route 36 chasing that elusive Aurora Borealis, to no avail. For consolidation, the most intense viewing of our Milky Way to be found. I agree with the Frugal Traveler, can't beat the hot dogs topped with the fried onions and a 6 pack of Gull beer to store on the windowsill for a long night. Can't wait to go back in Green Season! The trip will overwhelm your storage on the iPhone.
I'm getting ready to travel to Iceland in a couple of weeks. I can't wait. I love wild places. Do not cross Alaska off your list though. It is vast and not ruined yet. I saw wolves and grizzlies, a black bear, little foxes, a salmon run, heard moose calling in the long summer " night". Beautiful views of the fireweed and the muskeg and the deep , varied blues of the glaciers. And a charming little solitary spotted harbor seal with his sweet whiskered face. Alaska is quite magnificent as well.
I also refrain from taking so many pictures that it "overwhelms my storage" . I think that it is better to drink in the moment peacefully. I went to Alaska 45 years ago and only have to cast my mind back to see it again. So much better than a picture. I can't wait for the Icelandic experience and subsequent memories. I am definitely going to ride one of those little tolting horses, swim in the pools, walk on the lava fields...
2
I took WOW's cheap flight from Montreal to Reykjavik in May 2018. Everything after that was relatively expensive, but you could cut corners via the local grocery stores and watch out for restaurant specials. Spent 5 days in Iceland and took 3 full day trips, and another half day one. The scenery is spectacular and the lack of crowds and development made the land that much more enchanting.
People are friendly and the city of Reykjavik is very safe for walking around. Lots of restaurants, bars, interesting architecture and a very vibrant art community.
1
Went last year in March with my college's alumni travel program and it was absolutely magical. Our tour guide happened to be American-Icelandic and she was fantastic. She did not take us to the Blue Lagoon as she thought it was overly touristy. I have mixed feeling about missing it, but she did take us to swim in a lake where the water was naturally hot and they bake bread in the hot ground (the water bubbles out of the earth - it's incredible). In any case, I can honestly say it was one of the most wonderful trips of my life. And I loved the food, especially the skyr at breakfast time.
1
This article seems more like, "I went around the world to see what I could see, but I saw you and you saw me mostly." Thank you Dan Hicks.
9
"I remember feeling slightly underwhelmed by the food situation."
Stick with what's local. I had fish every night except once, mostly because it was the best fish I ever had. Cold water fish is fantastic. When you see your fish taken off the boat and carried to your inn (the only place to eat), you know it's fresh.
We took the same route the writers took - avoid the ring road, go north and take the ferry to Westfjords. Not many people head that way and it was fantastic. When we returned to the crowds at the end of our trip, it was a letdown.
We never - repeat, never - had any krona. We bought everything from cups of coffee, to beer, to rooms and meals with credit cards. Wonderful.
Overall, the most beautiful place I've ever been. The gorgeous light also helps, and there is nice light all day. Great for photos.
8
Was there in 1972 for the summer. Food was expensive then, too. Whale being the most affordable. I cannot recommend that as an entree. Lamb was delicious but very pricey. Fish and Chips were excellent. Swimming that morning. The only beer was sans alcohol. Only one liquor store in town and choices limited to expensive Scotch or the local schnapps- Breneven aka "The Black Death". People were friendly enough and assumed I spoke Icelandic. With frequent grunts and gestures, I was able to communicate on a basic level. The roads outside of town were unpaved so travel was a challenge. Beautiful landscapes. I would love to return.
Nope. Not while the whale massacre continues.
25
My wife and I just got back from a 2-week trip to Iceland. Wonderfully friendly people who make your visit a very pleasurable experience. The cost of food is very high, but you don't need to tip so keep that in mind. The country is a mixture of vistas, some sullen, some spectacular. It rains (sprinkles) quite a lot at this time of year so dress appropriately and be like the residents, enjoy the outdoors, it's only a little water after all. The people of Iceland have a lot to teach the rest of the world about protecting your environment. They have a gem on their hands, realize it and are willing to protect it. They may do things others don't approve of, but their respect for the environment is very evident. We found the country and it's residents to be warm, friendly and down to earth. There seems to be little in the way of crime and hitch-hiking is a given for kids getting around the island. 380,000 people, 800,000 sheep, and about a zillion horses - what more could one ask for.
7
Good point on protecting their environment. As the article mentions, Icelandic horses don't need to be vaccinated...because no other horses are allowed to enter the country, including Icelandic ponies that have left.
2
I agree that Iceland is one of the most amazing places to visit, having done so in April. And the ability to stopover for "free" for several days on the way to other places in Europe makes it so much more accessible. We avoided the Golden Circle also and took a small tour of the South Coast. We'll definitely go back!
A couple of quibbles about the article. One, the double "ll" at the end of certain Icelandic words, like Snaefellsjokull, is pronounced with a "t" sound, more like "kutluh". And it didn’t mention Icelandic Street Food, on Laekjargata, in downtown Reykjavik. It’s tiny, with a few plain but tasty Icelandic dishes with free seconds and free dessert! So it works for the budget minded.
7
Traveling alone? What about the film crew that's following her around? I suppose counting a film crew as traveling companions is a bit of stretch, but still, doesn't their presence with all that equipment sort of water down whatever spiritual benefits are to be gained by traveling alone?
Anyway, they certainly made a beautiful film. Thanks!
14
My Husband and I enjoyed visiting Iceland in 2013. It was spectacular. But, we will not return so long as Iceland continues to defy International Whaling Commission's ban on commercial whaling. This year, thanks to Icelander and fishing magnate, Kristjàn Loftsson, they're back at it killing whales and breaking the law in broad daylight. According to Sea Shepherd, Loftsson is responsible for killing over 35,000 whales. But, unlike other whaling nations of Norway and Japan, Iceland takes endangered fin whales, the 2nd largest animals on Earth after the blue whale. Meanwhile, with its growing tourism industry, Iceland has seen its whale watching tourism grow rapidly as well. Kristjàn Loftsson's lawlessness is smearing the reputation of this beautiful, modern, friendly nation as he continues to defy the law by killing our whales for a dying whale meat industry. 8 fin whales have been killed in the past couple of weeks with over 180 to go. They will also slaughter up to 209 minke whales. Many people who are concerned about our oceans and who want to see our international laws enforced stand with us and will boycott Iceland tourism until this filthy and disgraceful industry is shut down! Please stand with us for protecting our whales, our seas and our planet. And visit Sea Shepherd UK to see for yourself: https://www.seashepherd.org.uk/news-and-commentary/news/sea-shepherd-cre...
52
Moonscape is correct. I was there in 2005 and we took a bus to the Blue Lagoon, while waiting between flights to Boston. The Blue Lagoon is a touristy place but on the bus ride, the landscape itself does look like the moon. I would return, however, because I think it’s a glorious place for photographers!!
Visiting Iceland for the first time towards the end of the last century was for me like visiting a different planet for precisely the reasons mentioned by the authors. Iceland is scenic and until the turn of the century was pristine and a secret of its mystique and natural beauty very few people outside of Iceland knew about the In fact I was told that the moon landing was practiced in Iceland.
I too made a friend but also a life long scientific collaborator late Dr. Gudmundur Johann Arason and his family. Our friendship could be worthy of being called an Icelandic saga that deserves to be documented in a book one day. He was one of a kind than any person I have known and visited close 12 times. After his passing away, 4 years ago, it has been like the light has gone off over Iceland. Not the Northern lights which I never saw or riding the Icelandic horse through the unique landscape or cooking the variety of fresh Icelandic fish for Gudmundur's family has attracted me back for a visit to Iceland
I will recommend Iceland as a top touristic destination for all. There is no place on earth like Iceland.
10
There is also no place on earth like Louisville, KY. Or Omaha. Or Paris. Or Antwerp, or...
4
Ortrud Radbod from Antwerp, Belgium. I agree every place on earth is different from every other but one place is totally out of this world and that in Iceland. When land at Keflavic airport and begin the bus ride to Reykjavik, the capital city all you see for miles is an uneven surface covered with moss as long as the eye can see. Not a bird or an animal or a human being on both sides of the road. There is pin drop silence in the bus load of people because everyone one is wondering are we still on earth. While in Iceland you find geysers, volcanic craters, volcanoes, hot springs (Blue lagoon) that is also very different from any where else. By the way, I have passed through Antwerp but never had a desire to stop by for a diamond or a cup of coffee but I have visited Paris and Brussels and they are both great cities but the natural landscape is not so dramatically different from any other city.
1
@Ortrud Radbod. Iceland is in the sub-Arctic climate zone, unlike the rest of the cities you mention. The geography and environment are completely different. So yes, every place is one of a kind, but some vary from the mean more than others.
1
What a fantastic place, wonderful to read about, thanks. I wish some of the prices in Krona had been translated to dollars though.
2
For a rough conversion, move the decimal point on a Krona price two spaces to the left to get the US dollar equivalent.
1
A krona is about a penny.
1
My son and I have been to Iceland twice, an 11-day excursion in 2014 where we drove the Ring Road, and a quick 4-day stop last October en route to England (taking advantage of the "free" stopover on Icelandair). Doing that on the way TO England also allowed us to skip the overnight flight eastbound, since Icelandair has mid-afternoon departures out of JFK (and a few other East Coast airports) to Keflavik from May into October.
Since we'd skipped it on the first trip, we visited the Snaefellsnes peninsula last fell, staying in a guesthouse in Olafsvik and exploring the coastal towns and a volcanic tube. The guesthouse also offered a free pass for each of us to the town pool. Although it wasn't geothermal, it was hot and quite relaxing after a long day exploring, and it had a few outdoor areas where you could soak under the stars (or in our case, drizzle).
We'd also visited Gullfoss on our first trip, as well as Geysir, spent a night at a horse farm near Akureyri so we could take a ride on those beautiful animals, and went whale watching out of Husavik (insulated coverall was provided, but bring a hat and gloves).
My T-mobile plan included coverage in Iceland with free texts and 20 cents-per-minute calls. I think the only time that I DIDN'T have coverage was when we were exploring the volcanic tube.
All in all, I heartily agree with you assessment of Iceland - it's an other-worldly place to visit, and the hot dogs are pretty good.
15