Pete Wells does a great service by delivering a thoughtful review like this.
While I agree that most aquaculture does not approach anything caught in wild fisheries, it is a mistake to lump all fish farms together.
Japanese tuna farming techniques are highly sophisticated, and some salmon farms in Europe are doing great things with salmon. Meanwhile, our wild fisheries are polluted with prescription drugs (including the antibiotics that cause so much concern about farmed fish,) heavy metals, and other toxins.
Don’t be so quick to criticize Pete Wells for a thoughtful review.
I want that yellowtail collar right now.
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When Ruth Reichl quit reviewing restaurants for the Times, she said she was "tired of telling rich people where to eat".
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Below, Emily H., of Manhattan, pointed out a broad gastronomical issue of no real French bouillabaisse in the Japanese fish-oriented cuisine: only a one-pot yosenabe exists.
Researches in Internet have indeed revealed that Nabemono or its variety Yosenabe "is a mixed stew containing fish, chicken, vegetables, Tofu, and so on, seasoned with soy sauce, salt, Sake, Mirin (a kind of sweet Sake)".
Some of the great French chefs have recently established outposts in Japan and introduced Japanese cuisine in their eateries in Paris. It should be their next patriotic, cultural, and gastronomic duty to introduce the bouillabaisse to Japan. The word is easily written in four katakana characters and pronounced just like in French.
A few months ago: the omakase was “hit or miss,” agreed, the raw fish better than a few “odd” cooked options, the dishes came too fast, and large, very large sushi course at the end of the meal rather overwhelming. Maybe Pete got the VIP treatment,, BTW, the saki was superb with many, many choices... the restaurant is visually striking.. one star is probably fitting
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The great variety of fish used in the Japanese cuisine, mentioned by Mr. Wells, makes me wonder, is there a Japanese equivalent of the South-French bouillabaisse?
There's a dish called yosenabe, which can be made using a wide assortment of fish (snapper, sea bream, shrimp, clams, oysters, crab, monkfish, cod....) in addition to vegetables, all cooked together in fish stock. That's probably the closest, although the flavor profile is very different from bouillabaisse.
@ Emily H. Manhattan
Thank for this info, I shall try to find yosenabe in one of the better Japanese eateries in my area.
As for the flavor of bouillabaisse, I had variable experiences in France: some were excellent, but some had an unpleasant aftertaste of fish oil.
@ Emily H. Manhattan
My researches in Internet have indeed revealed that Nabemono or its variety Yosenabe "is a mixed stew containing fish, chicken, vegetables, Tofu, and so on, seasoned with soy sauce, salt, Sake, Mirin (a kind of sweet Sake)".
Some of the great French chefs have recently established outposts in Japan and introduced Japanese cuisine in their eateries in Paris. It should be their next patriotic, cultural, and gastronomic duty to introduce the bouillabaisse to Japan. The word is easily written in four katakana characters and pronounced just like in French.
Farm raised fish has its problems, but we human are depleting wild Bluefin tuna into oblivion, so the review and points about tuna being farm raised and deliciously fresh and effectively environmentally friendly makes a difference. One of the reasons wild-caught Bluefin is so expensive is that we are running out. And unfortunately, once ocean populations crash, then tend not to recover.
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If you're not a millionaire find a good grocery. Wild alaskan salmon on sale for $12 ./lb. makes farm raised hardly even a distant cousin. In louisiana has excellent Mahi mahi and grilled ahi plates for $25. w/rice and beans. Papadeux in Texas near the LA border is tops.
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Perhaps Pete Wells will reveal next week that the steaks at Tad's in Penn Station are cheaper than those at Peter Luger. Or maybe he'll wrote an article about how the Trader Joe's red wine is much less expensive than a bottle of Margaux.
Comparing price at a place that serves cheap, farmed fish with those sourcing wild seasonal product is silly and stupid. If Wells can't taste the difference, he should avoid reviewing Japanese restaurants altogether.
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@jkaw
Do not be a jackass because they do not act as you. Please.
Japan is THE COUNTRY of fish. For those who appreciate fresh fish, $300 is not a great price to pay. At least they do not serve dolphins, brutally slaughtered in Japan.
Kudos to Mr. Yoshizawa and a minor suggestion to make the knot of his tie more triangularly symmetrical.
UGH! You guys supposedly know good food! Or, do you just know food that tastes good? I think the latter. Here's why....
1. That salmon pictured is farmed. Farmed salmon borders on toxic. Yet "fine" restaurants find an excuse to serve it under the auspices of "wild isn't available and there's demand". Not so - they rarely sell wild salmon - even when it's available - why? - it appears and tastes nothing like the consistently fatty farmed salmon pictured. Ever look into what farmed salmon are fed and how they are raised? Good luck - I did (or so I should say, attempted) and it's frightening.
2. Define "Fresh". Today, fresh can be days old. Fresh used to mean alive, slaughtered, cleaned/gutted/cooked. Now it means caught, die slowly/stressfully/suffering, get "iced" absorb water, rigour mortis (OK, only 1/3 if iced) sets in (the chefs like this as this helps flesh absorb spices). And then served as "fresh" whether cooked or not. Again - fresh is not what it used to be.
3. ""When in Rome" Basic rules - Eat NY Pizza & real "Cantonese" Chinese food in NYC, Deep Dish in Chicago, Mexican & Sushi in Los Angeles and so on. Don't eat Sushi & Mexican in NYC or NY Pizza & Chinese food in LA.
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Well those are pretty silly and antiquated "rules", considering among other things, the San Gabriel Valley has some of the best Chinese food in the country. I will agree that pizza in LA stinks across the board.
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Very thoughtful review. Scratching my head once again why a place with such reasonable prices and delectable choices merits just one star while Wells gave Senor Frogs (now defunct) two stars. Would love to know his criteria.
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Great to see Wokuni getting some much deserved attention though I wish the yellowtail collar received a little less. Between your review and Wokuni generously including two collars in one order I fear my days of yellowtail bliss are numbered.
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Another precise, informative review from Mr. Wells, and at the welcome lower end of the pricing scale; (with a nice, perfectly apt, Gehry reference).
Still, I can't help wishing that this had been about a family owned restaurant, rather than part of a "restaurant group".
Or, my favorite Marx brother put it, (the unsung, quiet one, Pinko Marx): "We have nothing to lose but our chains"
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