The Treacherous Burmese Road from Mandalay

Nov 29, 2017 · 53 comments
laolaohu (oregon)
"A wounded nation seeking itself still almost 70 years after the British departed." How many nations can the be said about, merely substituting for the British, as appropriate, the French, the Americans, the Dutch, and so on.
porcupine pal (omaha)
I have been told that there are up to 2 million Buddhist monks in Myanmar. As misguided as they might be in trying to live their beliefs, they may be the real conscience of the country; not Aun Sung Soo's daughter. These monks (and nuns) may be whatever hope the country has to end this 70 year nightmare.
Ginni (New York, NY)
The always wonderful writing of Roger Cohen takes us to places we must be - and, today we, too, must be hopeful for "the sunshine an the palm trees...." of the people of Mandalay and all of Myanmar.
SC (Midwest)
Another apologist piece for Aung San Suu Kyi. Let's be clear about this: What has gone on in Myanmar is ethnic cleansing and genocide. Aung Sung Suu Kyi did nothing to stop it. Cohen excuses this as some sort of realpolitik based on pressures removed westerners cannot understand. But that is belied by the fact that Aung Sung Suu Kyi actually denied that the atrocities were occurring. We also have accounts from those who have met with her (including Nick Kristoff) which indicate that she shares the racist views which underlie these acts. Cohen suggests that Pope Francis's ginger approach during his visit is evidence for the legitimacy of Aung Sung Suu Kyi's actions. No. Francis is understandably fearful for the Catholics in Myanmar, who are a small and vulnerable minority. But that means he is not, in this instance, someone to be looked up to for guidance. Finally, I'd like to emphasize that speaking of the Myanmar attitude, including Daw Suu's, towards the Rohingya as a "Buddhist" perspective, is as repulsive as speaking of the Taliban's views as "Muslim." Decent Buddhists are deeply ashamed of what is happening there.
The North (North)
(Part Two) And to be sure, Buddhism (at least to this westerner) is much more 'in your face' and 'in your ears' (by way of near incessant loudspeaker-transmitted music and prayer in some locations) than it is in, say, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. However, I did remind myself that a mere month before, I had been in Myeik in Mon State. And there, in the course of a single day, I had been invited to a Buddhist Novitiation ceremony, watched a Hindu parade, and walked through the bustling Muslim quarter of the city. Everywhere in this city (as throughout Myanmar) the people were as friendly as has been described in the reporting and other comments. On the surface (and deep down) it is a country full of wonderful people. We in the west, however, do not seem to realize the complexities created by the marriage of an entrenched military with an assertive, even aggressive, Buddhism. And (given my experience in Myeik) that Muslims in Rakhine and Muslims elsewhere are viewed differently in the country. Thus, the situation on the ground is more complicated than we would like to believe.
The North (North)
(Part One) Over the course of traveling for the past 18 months in S and SE Asia, I have been asked only 3 times about my religion: once in Sulawesi, where I was asked, "Are you Christian?" and twice in Myanmar, where the question was open-ended. It was in Mrauk-U (in Rakhine) where the question was followed by a statement concerning "the Muslims": "they are trying to take our land". And with little input on my part, the man speaking to me grew quite agitated; I knew his sentiments were deeply held. At the time, I found his heat understandable, especially in light of various out-in-the-open statements and magazine articles with undercurrents of militant Buddhism that I came across at guesthouses and cafes. (Continued)
Benjamin (Ballston Spa, NY)
The world is not black or white, but shades of grey, it is overall a heartbreaking world. Thanks for the reports on Burma.
L'osservatore (Fair Verona, where we lay our scene)
Myanmar has never HAD democracy or a legal system that cannot be violated by those with power. Were a George Bush to go in there and create such a system for, say, twenty years, the country would probably overthrow all tyrants trying to reimpose the mess that they have now. But half of our country could never consider that being a good thing to do for Myanmar because a non-progressive would get the credit. There are other societies, too, that would greatly benefit from such an "imposition."
Expat (London)
Which universe are you living in? A George Bush to rescue the little people from their terrible fate? Didn't those pair of father and son afflict enough harm on the world already?
In deed (Lower 48)
"androgynous helmeted young men in longyis and tie-dye T-shirts sitting on motor scooters, men..." What? Androgynous? in whose eyes? I detest identity politics but I must admit there is always someone offering fuel for the fire.
indisbelief (Rome)
So, do you have a manual that explains when the word "androgynous" may be used...? Should the word be banned...?
nerdrage (SF)
Southeast Asians have the least physical distinction between the genders and Northwest Europeans have the most. So what looks androgynous to someone used to being around people of Northwest European ancestry will look normal to Southeast Asians.
In deed (Lower 48)
when locals say the men look andogynous then use the word. when a traveler sees the local men as exotics and says androgynous because THERE IS A COLORFUL DETAIL don't use the word. Go home and say nothing about it. Reflect. grow. now how tough was that? and yes, wilful cluelessness should be banned.
LF (NEW YORK)
With our President sending out anti-Muslim videos from UK extremists this AM, our ability to criticize the behavior of Burma diminishes. Some will take this lightly and say, but we "the People" aren't anti-Muslim, but that rings hollow to me. We elected our monster -- The Burmese elected Suu Kyi, who as the opinion piece basically states is their only hope. The Lady may not be perfect, but she is no Trump -- Having traveled abroad lately, I have had to face the shame and guilt our President has brought upon us --
L'osservatore (Fair Verona, where we lay our scene)
The United states will ALWAYS be THE place that the impoverished and mis-governed of the world would trust to set their homelands straight. They have the benefit of not having had a media & entertainment culture train them to hate their country.
Expat (London)
Yes, look at all the countries the US had "set straight". You couldn't find a better friend, could you?
andrew (AZ)
To better understand what is happening in Myanmar read Emma Larkin's "Finding George Orwell in Burma." She captures the undercurrents of violence that Orwell found ever present in Burmese society.
SV (San Jose)
Better yet read Orwell's Burmese Days. You will get a better picture of how the British (more specifically, the English) treated the Burmese and Indians. Not exactly the Englishmen in Kipling's poems.
manfred m (Bolivia)
Oh, the British, plundering the world, and whose indignities still remain in sight...in spite of it's decay.
GRW (Melbourne, Australia)
The natural inclination towards "tribalism" of human beings - towards discrimination and even violence against those not of our ethnic group - has been depressing me lately. Pleasingly last weekend the political party of my country which most supports the unfettered expression of this inclination - One Nation - only won one seat in a state election (against expectations of ten or more) and "only" got 13% of the vote statewide. But news of events and the political climate in Myanmar of recent times has been very disconcerting. Efforts at suppression of this inclination are required everywhere with respect to all individuals of each generation. Human beings must be made mindful of their nature, be educated to understand that "natural" does not necessarily mean "good" and come to accept and respect our common humanity and universal individuality no matter our ethnicity - or there is no hope for us as a species given the modern weaponry at our disposal. The darkness in us must be made to succumb to the light we can see, or learn. We must self-overcome and become good people, not just flawed human beings.
DM (Foster City, CA)
From personal experience having visited Burma some years ago, I believe Mr. Hendley has it absolutely right when he states "It is a wonderful, beautiful country populated by the most friendly, helpful people anywhere on earth." Certainly what is happening in the Rakhine is tragic but I sense there is more to this story than is being reported so I intend to return to Myanmar soon to see for myself. I will then try to convey a balanced view to others with an open mind.
Paulo (Paris)
Is there any solution to this one issue among the many in a country with over 150 ethnic groups living within borders dictated by foreigners? The Western media likes issues explained in short-term, bumper-sticker proclamations, while ignoring the complex history and realities on the ground in Myanmar.
George Lewis (Florida)
Sung San Suu Kyi , the "Lady" , must speak out , forcefully , on behalf of the abused minorities , particularly the Rohingha , otherwise she is not a "Lady" , but rather a female lap-dog of the dictatorial military in her country . True she has suffered with years of house arrest , but history has placed her in a position that she MUST speak out for freedom , equality and justice . Her voice would be critical in ending the horrible atrocities against minorities in Myanmar .
Expat (London)
She has spoken out as much as she could possibly under the situation. She is playing the long game here. She and the NLD are mindful of the long list of people who have been liquidated (by orders from the generals who are still in control) for their outspokenness. She is very much aware of how little maneuverability she has in her position. Any false move on her part would be seized upon by the generals as just cause to remove her one way or another. Where would the nascent democracy in Burma be then?
nerdrage (SF)
By the time she finishes her long game, she will be fatally tainted by complicity in genocide. She already is, honestly. Even if she had to flee the country, she should have spoken out forcefully before now.
Expat (London)
@nerdrage. Her fleeing the country is the end game that generals who run the country have always hoped for. What then for Burma?
FS (NY)
Any excuse to even remotely justify silence by Daw Aung San Suu on ethnic cleansing is shameful. For God's sake she did not even attend her friend's funeral just because he was Muslim. If I had the power, I will take away her Nobel Peace Prize and hand it to U Ko Ni who died for democracy.
Expat (London)
You should try not to jump on conclusions without knowing the facts. She did not attend the funeral of her friend and adviser U Ko Ni not because he was a Muslim. She did not attend because she was warned by the security forces that her own personal safety could not be guaranteed and that she would be seen as inflaming the already highly combustible situation. When and if you had sacrificed and suffered as mush as she's had, you could then claim the higher moral ground.
FS (NY)
Excuses, excuses and excuses. She did not even speak out for days after the murder of her closest friend who was not afraid to speak out. You have the right to defend her but not her critics? One should stand up to evil, if one cannot do it at least condemn it. She has failed at all levels.
Expat (London)
I don't make excuses for anyone. I find it quite extraordinary that people who are safely sitting at home, not having to care about persecution or personal safety for themselves and their loved ones deign to criticize her for not doing enough. What have you done to make this world a better place?
Chris (Berlin)
Not unlike other US-backed "color revolutions" around the world, Myanmar's "Saffron Revolution" was sold as an ultra-liberal pro-democracy, progressive movement, with one of the West's most successful neo-colonial creations to date, Aung San Suu Kyi, portrayed and revered as a modern day, secular "saint" of neo-liberalism and Western democratic values. Despite the US’ self-proclaimed advocacy of rule of law, its political front of choice, Suu Kyi – barred from the presidency because of constitutional clauses regarding her conflicts of interest – maneuvered into power by openly nominating a proxy to “rule above”. Her entire political movement, including vast media and NGO networks are openly funded by the US/UK governments. Underneath the pageantry and spin, however, is harbored ultra-right racism and her callous disregard for the murderous onslaught against ethnic minorities and her de facto support for a regime that perpetuates widespread poverty in the country. Wirathu, also known as the "Buddhist Bin Laden," led Suu Kyi's "Saffron Revolution" in 2007 and his followers regularly fill the ranks of street mobs organized in support of her political party. Both Suu Kyi's NLD and her "Saffron" mobs, are fully funded, backed, protected by, and in absolute servile obedience to both US and British special interests. This whole charade is about containing China and not a word about it from Mr.Cohen. For the rest of Asia, the West’s overt hypocrisy in Myanmar is yet another warning
Steve (Hunter)
Between the British and Americans we certainly left much of the world in a mess.
Wayne Logsdon (Portland, Oregon)
The Pope is to be commended for his speech in Myanmar even as it likely fell on deaf ears. If his goal however was to save the Christian minority from abuse, it will not have any affect on the ruling military should they decide to do harm to them. He should have visited the Rohingya refugees in Bangladesh instead. Such would have demonstrated greater compassion. There is no democratic path forward for this country. International sanctions should be reimposed until or unless democratic norms are put in place.
Jean (Holland, Ohio)
In Asian societies, conformity with harmony among the masses equals the foremost value. Changes come slowly.
John lebaron (ma)
Long live Thein Than Oo! Something tells me that I shouldn't bet on it.
Gareth Sparham (California)
Roger Cohen is right to start with Kipling, because so much of Burmese self-identity comes from a rotten notion of religion authenticated by European quasi-scholarship that posited (and sometimes still does posit) an historically more authentic Buddhism than the next man's. It was a rigid, self-serving scholarship spawned by a bloated sense of European intellectual accomplishment that justified a colonial project. I was in Mandalay, on my way to Kunming before the changes that saw the Military enter into an accomodation with Aung San Suu Kyi. The main force in Burma then was Chinese economic expansion. It seemed clear Burma either opened its borders or else was doomed to incorporation within China. Roger Cohen would have done well to contextualize the horrors going on in Burma within the horrors going on in China. To focus on the faults of Burma and turn a blind eye towards China (without trumpeting out loud our own egregious faults) seems useless.
V.N. (Myanmar)
This piece captures the feeling of being here very well. Burma is a traumatized country with complicated politics and people who have live for generations with no freedom at all. For decades the military has been obliterating villages in so -called 'black areas,' in the name of 'national security.' It is a tragic truth, as is the fact that the money that has come into the country in the last few years has only made the connected rich infinitely richer, while feeble democratic reforms are mostly window dressing with no constitutional support. I see fewer police vans on the roads these days, but the imprisonment continues, more subtly. Demonizing all Burmese Buddhists as racists is grossly inaccurate. There are countless good people here - monks, nuns, and laypeople - still keeping their heads down and their mouths shut, out of tragic habit. I wish someone would interview them instead of the likes of U Wirathu and his ilk.
justsomeguy (90266)
With the world's population closing in on 8 billion this will become the "new normal" No part of the world is looking for additional population.
Roman (New York)
I've been to Myanmar twice in the past 2 years. The country oozes their brand of Buddhism. Except they're not. Imagine this country with a vast majority of white supremacists and Trump &Co with a 98% approval rating calling itself Christian.
nerdrage (SF)
It's hard to comprehend a Buddhism that is violent, racist and supremacist. Clearly they don't get Buddhism at all. Then again, the same could be said for many Christians and Muslims...
James Devlin (Montana)
"Later, for good measure, Allied bombing destroyed the palace during World War II." There was a war going on, dear chap. Flippancy does a disservice to all the Allied soldiers lost in that horrendous campaign. Or perhaps you would have preferred the Japanese just do as they wished?
Expat (London)
Japanese colonialism or British colonialism? Quite a choice, isn't it?
Tim Hendley. (NJ)
Myanmar deserves, and needs, all the help that it is willing to accept from us in the international community. The country is suspicious of foreigners though and who can blame them after their past history. The Brits fought three wars, repeat three wars, against what was then called Burma and in 1885 the Brit army steamed up the mighty Ayeyarwady river, anchored off Mandalay, seized the King, his wife and her sister and exiled them to India, where the King died years later. The seeds of what we see now in Myanmar were sown by England in that comparatively short time. It is a wonderful, beautiful country populated by the most friendly, helpful people anywhere on earth. We should be much more appreciative of their special problems, not only as regards the Rohingya, but also the complications arising from the many strong-minded 'minority' groups who want their own slice of the pie. We,in the West, should not interfere. We should support and help, if they ask.
Bob miller (Colorado)
Myanmar is a beautiful country populated by the most friendly and helpful people on earth. But Myanmar has been ruled by a brutally oppressive military for decades. During the period I was traveling to Myanmar (35 years ago) the military killed three thousand civilians enforcing a curfew when the civilian government was displaced. Most were slaughtered from passing trucks while standing in grocery lines and at bus stops. The military has allowed the development of a partial civilian government in significant part due to isolation of the Myanmar economy by other countries. Without continued outside pressure the efforts to replace the military with a fully democratic government are unlikely to succeed.
Barry (New York)
There is an insinuation of evil intent on the part of the allies in this line: "Later, for good measure, Allied bombing destroyed the palace during World War II." In fact, The palace burned during the British campaign to liberate Burma from Japanese occupation that produced the massacre of hundreds of thousands Burmese. The Japanese were under order to defend Mandalay to the death, and the 'palace' was a major fort. Allied bombing failed to breach it's walls. Even in an opinion piece the facts matter. In this era of vast manipulation of news for ideological purposes, maintaining the credibility of legitimate sources like Mr. Cohen and The Times is more important than ever.
victor (cold spring, ny)
This is an over the top criticism. A correction and detailing of the facts such as you offer is edifying and much appreciated by me, but to group Roger's mischaracterization regarding some fairly obscure details of Burmese history with "vast manipulation of news for ideological purposes" and the general "credibility" of the news media I find excessively pejorative and in turn implies motive that is nowhere supported by this article. So thank you for sharing your expertise on the topic, but I think the correction alone was sufficient.
Expat (London)
The Japanese were invited to liberate Burma from British rule by General Aung San (the father of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi) and his dozen or so Burmese resistance fighters who went and trained in Japan. The fact that the Japanese later turned around and became the colonial masters themselves have been a very unforgivable and bitter point for the Burmese to this day.
blogcruiser (New York, NY)
I usually like Cohen's world view but I think he's cutting Aung San Suu Kyi too much slack here. Nothing good comes out of obvious genocide. Perhaps that was a workable strategy in the past (though the bill for us Americans seems to be coming due now) but how will a future democratic Burma reconcile itself to the killings going on now? What sort of message does that send to the other ethnic groups in Burma (the Kachin, the Karen, the Shan, the many non-Muslim Indians)? If I were in their shoes, "we're next" is what I'd be thinking. I don't see a workable path to a democratic Burma from here. Odds are, the country will either slide back into a military dictatorship or it will become a vassal state to China with a "on the brink of instability" existence.
nerdrage (SF)
I'm just waiting for ISIS to set up shop in Burma. Isn't this just their thing, "defending" oppressed Muslims? They seem to be at loose ends at the moment.
Phyliss Dalmatian (Wichita, Kansas)
Absolutely poetic. I felt transported, in place and time. Thank you.
Mark Muhich (Jackson MI)
The first vow a Buddhist takes is "Not to Kill any sentient being". One of the founding precepts of Buddhism is the absolute equality of all sentient beings. Monks who kill Moslem Rohinga because they are "subhuman" are not Buddhists.
V.N. (Myanmar)
Well, of course. Any monk who intentionally kills another human being is automatically disrobed and forbidden to ever wear the robes again in this life. But monks aren't torching villages - it's the military. Big difference.
Leonard D Katz (Belmont, MA)
Mr. Cohen's mantra, "change is slow", and underlying assumption that in Burma change is and will be for the better, obscure the reality of continuing corrupt military rule, now made popular by its successful stoking of racist fears of Muslim 'races' and promotion of genocide under its leadership as national/religious salvation. Hitler sells well in Burmese translation, in print, in deed, in prospect. The only chance for deterrence is plausible threat to sanction those responsible, including the Army commander who already rules and intends to become President in name as well in 2020, https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/26/world/asia/myanmar-rohingya-min-aung-... sweeping aside Aung San Suu Kyi, who is already irrelevant, except in her pathetic attempts to ingratiate herself with the military by attempting to defend them them from sanctions.