I would love to visit Norway but, in my research, I always read how expensive it is to visit as a tourist. I wish the author had touched on that, particularly since mentioning, at the top, the government's efforts to draw tourism.
When I visited my Norwegian relatives back in the 1960s, I was astounded at the pure physical beauty of the land of my forefathers. Plastic Fantastic is nowhere to be found! Nothing but natural beauty and the land and sea. The vikings, for all their reputation of rape, pillage, and terror, really created a culture out of this small country. They sailed all over the known world, from the Mediterranean up through to Moscow. A special place, Vigland, is an enormous sculpture garden near Oslo created by one man, Gustav Vigeland, with almost 200 large granite sculptures celebrating mankind. Nothing like it in the world. And yet people continue to go to Disneyland to get their hollow, plastic fanasy kick. This little country stood up to the Nazis in WWII and fought them through the underground every day. My father's cousin, Walter Tynnes, sank a German troop ship in Oslo harbor, and was one of the few who attended the execution of Vidkun Quisling, the only Norwegian executed for that reason. Unusual place, marvelous people.
Go there and be amazed.
4
We'd have had several cruises via the coastal steamers and Royal Caribbean. It is a magical place. With glaciers, rivers pouring out of mountain sides, fantastic fjords, heaven for kayaks, breath-taking mountains and valleys, never ending lichen and moss, massive pines, etc., one quickly realizes that there are trolls and that giants populate the country...how could it be otherwise? We need to get back to interact with the most friendly people on earth!
5
As an architect, I was excited to learn about the projects along the western coast of Norway...bought the book after a local AIA presentation. Seemed too expensive to rent a car, so we took the 7 day Hurtigruten Ferry Line trip from Bergen to Kirkenes in the Arctic Circle...not far from Russia/Finland borders; then we flew back to Oslo. This article makes me want to go back to drive a portion of the roadway. It was great to experience both the scenic coast...as well as a snippet of the culture in the landings at several towns each day (and thru the night if you are an insomniac). Great local food, by the way. We traveled in August 2016....a good time to go.
2
Well--two thoughts:
(1) My son (back in 2015) spent several days hiking along the fiords of Norway. By himself (which gave us a few anxious moments). But there are rest huts along the way--with some basic provisions and sleeping accommodations. There he often fell in with friendly Germans.
And he missed--of all things!--galoshes. Striding along great mountain ridges, looking down at the Atlantic far below, you would never think of--MUD. Swamps. Wetlands. But he encountered them--picking his way along, trying to stay as dry as he could.
And--of course!--he had a marvelous time.
(2) My wife (and hey! this is her HUSBAND writing)--my wife has, for years now, nursed her dreams of visiting Norway. The country has fine old wooden churches here and there--a thousand years old, some of them. But alas! they have a tendency to burn down. You know. Wood. Old DRY wood. Norway, I presume, has lightning like every other country. So . . . ..
. . . .so. . . .
. . .she longs to get there before they ALL burn down.
But I hope, of course, that doesn't happen.
Sounds like a fine country, Norway.
LOOKS like a fine country.
Hope we get there someday. Thanks for a wonderful article--and marvelous pictures! My! what those Norwegians have done with a pretty rough, rugged terrain.
I guess they're not lazy. Or unenterprising.
WE should be like that. But what am I saying?
We already are.
Sometimes.
6
The words and pictures transported me...beautiful
1
Norway is incredible, pristine raw beauty and Norwegians are easy going, approachable & most speak impeccable English. Visit Norway, especially Western Norway, it’s the trip of a lifetime.
11
I recommend traveling the same route as in the article. Start your journey in Kristiansund. See here: https://youtu.be/lFExXgIWhBI
4
Yes, lovely. But they still hunt whales. I will not be part of that. I'll spend my travel time elsewhere.
1
Fran, you might be unaware that the US and Canada still hunts whales - even species that have a lower population. Whale watching is a much bigger business here, though, and you’re welcome to come here and watch and learn.
14
As does Iceland and Japan.
4
I have been to Trollstigen, it's worth the drive. Make it happen friends!
3
The installation at the Trollstigen rest stop's men's room had some odd architecture. As you go in, there's a 20-ft. long sink that must have confused some tourists because a sign saying DON'T PEE HERE was posted on the sink in several languages. Men, the toilets are opposite the sinks.
4
One thing I loved about Norway when I visited a few years ago was that, outside of Oslo and a few other busy places, much of the country didn't seem particularly fussed about tourism. Few communities that we visited felt the need to manufacture events or attractions to lure tourists, and some small but beautiful towns didn't even have a single hotel/motel.
This is in sharp contrast to much of Canada where it seems to be a national priority to market our tourism "products" across the globe and god forbid anyone should observe that we are saturated with tourists. Important protected areas like Banff, Jasper, and Yoho National parks are being marketed so heavily (e.g, 6 million annual visitors to Banff!) that their ability to provide intact wildlife habitat and to maintain ecological integrity is severely compromised and getting worse by the year.
That's why I was alarmed to read about Norway building new highways to support the tourism industry. It is really difficult to open remote, wild areas to mass tourism while maintaining wildlife and not compromising the ability of citizens to experience the wilderness that forms a crucial part of national identity.
11
Hey, don't be alarmed. We have not made new highways to serve the tourists, we have just defined several 100 years old roads as National Tourist Roads and built these intriguing installations along them. The roads are the same as before, narrow and winding and I wouldn't call them highways! But this trip is highly recommended, I have taken it myself more than once and you get a fabulous trip with 2 to 3 days of driving.
12
If you start or emd your roadtrip in Oslo, you might want to stop by in Drammen for the architectural oddity (I'm not qualified to call it a marvel) known as Spiralen. It is the result of quarrying stone in an untraditional manner.
Here is a video link (you might try "mute". https://youtu.be/wRmrJQnJn6g
I have dreamt of a driving tour through the Faroe Islands for years. On Expedia it says you can't get there from here.
There are 2 YouTube videos embedded in this article that seem only loosely related to the other content. Has the Times been hacked, or just me, or is this some further erosion of the barrier between journalism and advertising?
2
Paul, you didn't read the article did you? If you had, the inclusion of the video links would make perfect sense.
1
And just a ferry trip away on the island Tustna, you can have this experience:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XLK48R-Yjs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Af2BTDhh-8Q
2
I'd Like to Gjetost on a Slow Boat to Oslo, or, Have You Ridden Through a Fjord Lately?
Just a small correction: "Trollstigen" means "Troll's Ladder". (stigen= the ladder, stien= the path)
7
Well, actually it does mean path, but in a old kind of spelling. Witch is natural, as it reminds us much more of a path than a ladder...
3
Wow.
2
Your map is incorrect. Kristiansund is on the Southern coast of Norway.
Oops...your map is correct. KristiansAnd is on the Southern coast...sorry
America is a great place for long drives - I have taken week long vacations just driving around on many scenic routes and sleeping in my Jeep. Last trip to witness a total eclipse.
I will be changing my mode of travel soon and start wandering in a sailboat. I certainly hope to make it to Norway and exploring terra firma to check out these 18 scenic routes just added to my leaky bucket.
3
Wow. Looks absolutely beautiful.
What's the demand for Software Engineers in Norway? Asking for a friend...
6
Reads a little like What I did on my summer vacation...but anything about Norway is ok by me.
5
The public art especially the sculptures in Oslo are mind blowing. it's everywhere.
Creativity rules this country, Norwegians don't just build any plain old, boring building.
Their opera house alone is a testament to this.
4
Our Rockies and many other sites are worthy; we just choose fracking, pipelines, rigs, walls......
9
Lol! Fool me once, shame on me... Just got back from Iceland. Yeah, fell for that. I realized that there is a reason people don't live in those "beautiful" areas. There is nothing there. Oh look at the glaciers! That usually means it's cold. Look at all of the water... it's Norway, there is a lot of water. I don't need to travel halfway around the world to look at barren landscape or water. The writer had to be getting something from the Norway board of tourism. The reason why they are making stuff up to see along the way is because there isn't anything to see along the way. "Oh look, more barren, wet landscape darling. Pull over at the viewpoint so I can stand in the barren wet landscape and experience the barren wetness. My friends will will be so jealous."
3
Funny bit, Byron, but outside of the red rocks and the famous vortex what's going on in Sedona?
6
Lol! Nothing. I don't get it. I grew up here as a little kid (pre-vortex) and moved back recently when my better half got tired of the winters up north. I have no idea why so many people come here. Something like 4.5 - 5 million visitors a year while there are only 12k full time residents. It's like living in Disneyland. But everyone seems to be having a good time.
2
Hihihi, absolutely best and most realistic comment here :-)
3
I'm glad you liked it. You're welcome back anytime!
6
Very interesting architecture, but ultimately I think the landscape is better left alone. Having been there long ago, I know it is breathtaking on its own. Maybe I'm too traditional, but to me the small red or plain wood cabins complement it better with their smallness.
5
Big Norway fan, but I wouldn't drive that route, my favorite trip through the western fjords was by hurtigruten, literally speedy boat, a bit of Norwegian humor in that the coastal steamer out of Bergen, carrying cargo, mail and a limited number of passengers, describes a meandering journey of a thousand miles with several calls a day at remote fjordside villages. At some stops a band comes out to play. In past days the boats were small and lovable, with wicker chairs up on deck. Now they're all mini-cruise ships but the views are the same.
3
Living in Norway has its pluses (like free college and health care) and minuses (like bad, ridiculously overpriced food and 10 months of winter). I left a quarter century ago and have never looked back. But it's a beautiful place to visit. Just bring money. And/or shop at the grocery store and have a picnic.
4
A lot has changed in those 25 years. I was also there then for a 5 year stretch, studying in Oslo. I honed my cooking and baking skills as the food selection then was as you describe. Going out for food then was more a chance to be seen, than a chance to be well fed. I remember small shrimp salads (frozen) being nursed for an evening, that were a sort of surcharge to be able to order beer. Things have changed substantially culinary-wise. They've even collected some stars (Michelin) in the meantime.
I was told that, in the north of Norway, until modern times there was no word for delicious, just food (mat), and not food (umat). That was not a surprising revelation, even if it is a myth. Why would that lexicographic destinction be limited to the north, where the phenomenon seemed to cover the entire land, if not the penninsula?
The worry about keeping costs down is still there. Try to stay with friends...
I have looked back, many times. It has grown from provincial to cosmopolitan. If you look back even further, to the fifties (very few private cars), or heck, to its time as an annex to Sweden and before that, Denmark, it has come a long way. One of the greatest pieces of literature to come out of there was not called "Hunger" for nothing. Ah, bark, never thought to eat that!
3
I found that the prices at the grocery stores in Oslo were compatible to that of the U.S. The only difference being that the quality of their food was much higher and real, absolutely better tasting. Junk food is more expensive though, as it should be.
2
We visited Norway in September of this year. Not knowing better, we decided to drive from Oslo to Flam. The roads that the GPS sent us on were an adventure in themselves. When we arrived at the hotel in Flam I asked about the roads. The desk clerk said, "We have many scary roads in Norway. Those are two of them." However, we did get to travel the Laerdal tunnel, which at 15 miles is the longest road tunnel in the world. In retrospect it was worth the drive, but next time we will take the train.
3
My trip to Norway three summers ago was probably the most satisfying vacation I've had. There's so much amazing landscape and architecture to see around the Norwegian Scenic Routes, in addition to the gorgeous kayaking and hiking around the fjords. This is the photo-journal I put together on the trip: http://www.wanderingaway.com/norway/2015-08-western-norway.html
2
That enormous hollow cement structure, would be called soulless piece of communist era architecture, if it were in Russia. It certainly does not complement the surrounding country.
In Norway its piece of art.
2
It looks pretty cool to me. It is not gaudy or have the obligatory corporate logos all over it if it were located in our country.
3
What a stupid comment, did you look at the pictures?
2
"Soulless", in particular regarding architecture and scenic beauty is something you should be very familiar with, being that you are from Texas. It would serve you well to actually read the article.
4
A couple of notes, they have a trillion dollar sovereign wealth fund and a wood chopping TV channel.
8
Atlanterhavsvegen. Simply astounding and humbling. What tax dollars can do in the hands of a people not as cramped, ugly and greedy as Americans have become. This is cause for national pride, not standing or kneeling for a mere piece of cloth at a massively commercialized sporting event.
45
Is it possible to hire a driver who would accompany us, drive us, on this route?
4
Hello Mary
Now retiring from a life-long career in publishing and the travel business, I'd love to be your personal driver/guide on this route. Do PM me on Facebook.
3
What were my great grandparents thinking when they left there to come here?
43
Your great-grandparents were thinking about where they could go to escape the grinding poverty and near-feudal existence of your average Norwegian or Swede from 100-150 years ago.
Sweden and Norway lost about 25% of their population between 1880 and 1920 to the US and Canada because there was no opportunity whatsoever there unless you were a landowner. The US and Canada were giving land away for free.
9
I have no idea!
They, like mine, thought it was preferable to starving. Not to say that their descendants might not think about going back....
1
The Norwegians are beautiful.
17
On Youtube is an interview with the leader of the architect office behind Trollstigen Visitor Centre in Åndalsnes as well as other buildings in Møre og Romsdal county.
Reiulf Ramstad, (Louisiana Channel).
Another route to Trollstigen:
A 45 minute flight from Oslo to Molde, and 1 hour 15 minutes ride with the bus to Åndalsnes. 1 hour by (rental) car if you don´t have to wait for the ferry. If you want to get physical and is a bit fit, Åndalsnes is also the place for Romsdalseggen mountain hike, and the hike up to Rampestreken viewpoint. In that case, check out The Official Travel Guide; hiking tips from Visit Norway.
Few things irritate and enrage Norwegians more than tourists who are hiking in the Norwegian mountains without having done their research in advance (weather forecast; yr.no, pent.no), and who are not prepared; physically, or without the proper gear. They usually end up in need of being rescued by the Red Cross and/or by helicopter (if one is available before they freeze (almost) to death.
6
Norwegians are an extremely sports-minded people. They expect tourists to truly enjoy the outdoors and walk and hike and not take buses. Thumbs up for Norway!
4
I remember an article in the NYT.
"It is our country. Let´s walk it".
23. April 2016.
About the difference between Europe where much of the land is common ground, available to everyone, and the US where much of the land is private and one risk trespassing.
A third route if one want to take the time, is by train from Oslo to Åndalsnes. Change train at Dombås.
In the video, Mr. Ramstad talks about some of the challenges, reflections and physical limitations behind the Centre (climate, geography, environment), and his thoughts on "The Nordic Way of Building".
2
These lovely photos show how a government could use monies rather than attempting to give more to billionaires and millionaires in tax cuts.
31
If you can't go to Norway you can read about it: Kristin Lavransdatter by Sigrid Unset. It's heft is daunting but its descriptions and depth are are stunning.
10
Nobel prize winner and one of the most influential books I have read. Thank you for mentioning this cultural icon.
6
It looks like.......Maine? Seriously though, Western Norway is staggeringly beautiful, I think partly because of the emptiness, the dominating sky and the enormous scale of the terrain. Like the Central Valley of Peru, go, and you'll never be the same.
5
My wife and I spent three weeks in Norway last summer and it was extraordinary. Oslo and Bergen are wonderful cities worth exploring, but we spent nearly two weeks just driving around the country. The Lofoten Islands were our favorite as the islands jut out of the sea in dramatic fashion. While we went at the height of the tourist season, Lofoten felt quite a bit more isolated and we found that enjoyable. Like the Atlantic Highway, the islands are connected by a single main road. There are many small communities along the way where one can sample different versions of bacalao, the more-or-less national dish of Norway. We look forward to our return!
Thank you for sharing your story and reminding us of the joys and therapy of travel!
12
The Lofoten Islands are amazing. A must see. And do drive. While it can be a challenging drive and slow at times, you get the full feel for the islands when you drive the road and take the bridges and see the midnight sun . . . Ah Norway!
2
I have had the great fortune to have been to Norway several times, to hike, and to attend university courses. It is, bar none, one of the most beautiful places on earth and enjoys an enviable quality of life and government that we, over here, apparently will only ever be able to dream of. Thank goodness Norway is there. A place to visit in order to nourish the soul.
14
Where did you hike? Was it for overnight trips or guided? i am interested in a overnight hiking trip in Norway
1
Appreciate your comment and agree with your sentiments, but hopefully that doesn't mean we can't poke fun among friends, to wit:
"bar none, one of" ... maybe next time at University take a logic course :)
2
For nine striking years, I had the good fortune to live and teach in Nordfjordeid, in the county of Sogn og Fjordane on Norway's west coast, south of the city of Ålesund. Every year, every season, was breathtakingly beautiful, where high mountains sweep down to the fjords.
The writer mentions Geirangerfjord and Trollstigen. In summer and early fall, Geiranger is as the writer described, and at that time of year, when you take the ferry along the fjord, the water looks like chocolate, dark and still. Winter brings its challenges, but always turns to spring and summer.
The US could learn a lot of lessons from Norway and the manner in which it has decided to develop its rural and mountain regions while respecting nature and the human need for economic development, authenticity, and stillness.
28
I spent a month this past summer traveling through Norway (Oslo-Hammerfest and back) and as a Norwegian-American (mother is 100% Norwegian) feel an affinity with the landscape and people. I hope visitors to Norway do explore areas outside the larger cities - Norway has so much to offer.
5
Lovely travel piece. Contrary to expectations, we are often most open to the wonders of the world while experiencing emotional stress, and even more so when we are alone. It's a special, and sad, state of being the author alludes to well, though sparingly, thereby enhancing rather than detracting from the reader's experience of the journey. Paired with the beautiful and understated photographs, her words definitely make me want to visit this place. But can I afford it? Norway is not cheap, I hear.
3
After a year of study in Sweden, a bright young woman I know is relocating to Norway for her graduate degree, and to live. She has a great job here, but would prefer to live elsewhere, now. Many of our best and brightest are now moving away to better places, and who can blame them.
Beautiful piece, thanks for sharing Ms. Cohane!
5
In the late 1990s my husband and I were lucky enough to purchaseur Saab in Sweden after which we travelled through Scandinavia for 3 weeks. Almost 2 weeks were spent in Norway driving some of what are now the Scenic Routes and visiting Stave churches. No matter where we went we never had a language problem; we speak "some" French and Italian, but definitely no Nordic languages. The people could not have been nicer, and I don't think we have ever been anywhere with more OMG moments than our drives along the coast, and crossing from Oslo to Bergen. Reading this article made me realize it is past time to return. And if you go, definitely include the Stave churches and the market in Bergen- I actually briefly grew tired of smoked salmon.
6
If only I could go there right now! If only my husband were not tethered to an oxygen concentrator and no longer able to tolerate altitude or a hike or even a long drive.
I can only yearn. Because this trip sounds exactly like what we might have done in our younger years. And exactly what I’d wish to do as a widow. But who wants to trade our life together for such a trip?
I wish I lived in Norway! Seriously. A true democratic nation. Not a crzy country like we now inhabit.
I thank the writer. I thank the Times. Maybe one day I can persuade a widow down the hall, fleet in Norwegian, with lots of relatives there, to take this trip.
8
After 3 trips, I too love Norway. As others have mentioned, don't miss the Lofoten Islands - I've traveled the globe and those islands are one of the most spectacular places I've seen. Yes, Norway is very expensive. Most hotels include huge breakfast buffets. My strategy was to gorge myself then and live off good bread and cheese the rest of the day.
6
A truly beautiful country with absolutely amazing people. Have been there several times and absolutely love it. And best of all, you can easily get there on amazingly inexpensive direct flights from the US on Norwegian Airlines. Flew there last year from Boston in August for under $300 round trip. Here's my article I wrote about my journey last year - http://www.masslive.com/entertainment/index.ssf/2017/02/wine_press_quest...
6
very beautiful. thanks for sharing
1
All trips are personal. While I read this excellent article I thought of my first driving adventure: crossing the United States after my honorable discharge from the Army during the Vietnam conflict. Like the NYT writer I was getting away to be not only distracted but "lifted" by such wonders as the Grand Canyon, the Great Salt Lake, lightning strikes in Kansas and Big Sur --all first time experiences for me. This Norway trip is calling me, although at this point in my life, I seek the thoughtfulness of how a country handles its natural beauty. Well done, especially the inclusion of the video clips.
4
It's good to know there is a country in this world that isn't obsessed with being Number One, that dedicates its government to the welfare of the people, and appreciates nature and art. Lessons can be learned from this.
16
I started to write that in the US structures like these would only be accessible to millionaire capitalists, not the public. But then I realized that all Norweigians are capitalist millionaires.
2
One practical note that is so instantly obvious when you are in Norway that I am not surprised that it wasn't mentioned. I speak some Swedish which means as a practical matter I speak some Norwegian but it is hard to practice as virtually everyone in Norway (and Sweden) speaks quite passible, though slightly Brit-infused, English. They start learning it in the very early grades. A few commenters have remarked that they don't now any Norwegian. Don't let fear of a language barrier keep you away. There is no language barrier.
57
One other practical note. All but one of the people pictured are wearing jackets or heavy sweaters. Summer daytime temperatures in the 50s fahreinheit are not uncommon in Oslo and frequently highs are in the 60s. I'm not familiar with the conditions further north but if you are going to Norway you should scope out what the weather might be and bring whatever you will need to stay warm.
5
I no what you mean...
I lived in Scandinavia during the seventies and eighties when most people did not speak English. Currently, everyone including the garbage collectors speak some basic school English. What a change!
2
What a wonderful escape from the Trump dominated world! ALMOST as good as being there. Thank you Ms. Cohane for sharing your journey and having such discerning vision in choosing the sites to share. I will have a wonderful day!
71
A mythical land, where the all-encompassing beauty permeates the land, the people and the peoples' things. What a nutty way to run a country. Really glad we don't take that approach.
32
Norway enjoys the highest per capita GDP in the world, and they make it a point to make sure everyone gets a piece of it. Really wish we would take that approach.
7
What approach do you mean?
Yes, but you said you are really glad "we don't take that approach" in the first note you wrote and now you wrote you want us to take that approach...I think you just mis-wrote it...
1
Between my love of metal and the outdoors, and my care for myth and vikings, I've built up Norway as this kind of ideal pilgrimage spot in my mind. This article did not help matters. Whenever I become independently wealthy this will be my first stop!
16
The Philly Inquirer ran a similar story about a Norway road trip last year. http://bit.ly/2ytpf4u
Spectacular scenery and you don't have to board a cruise to see it.
6
No. You can drive from Bergen all the way, but from the cruise you will get a more spectacular view from the ocean perspective. Both are nice.
7
grey skies and cold humid air.
How appealing is that ?
As an ex Texan, it is not as bad as you think. The cool helps you relax and reflect. Prefer it over the hot humid weather I had in Texas, which just saps your strength.
26
Variety is the spice of life. Nice to step out of one's comfort zone to see how other people live and thrive.
5
Funny you should say that, because I do find it weird that landscapes like this call to me. I love the soft breezes, aqua seas, and white sands of comfortable places like the Caribbean, but rugged, vast, even harsh places like this make me feel "right."
Hard to explain, but there's something attractive about it, to some of us at least.
1
Ahhh--my favorite country
20
Agree. Even the ride into Oslo from airport shows how beautifully the Norwegians show their appreciation for natural beauty.
2
What is the enormous triangular, hollow, cement object by the water? Is it art or does it have a practical function?
3
It is a viewing point, but the architecture makes it look like a piece of art.
5
It is the Trollstigen Cafe. Surprised it wasn't mentioned as such in the article. If you go to:
http://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/geiranger-trollstigen?attra...
You can click on the image in their gallery and it is captioned as well as you get a better view and can see tables inside.
3
It is a visitor center for the area.
1
Fantastic article. Looks utterly wonderful.
9
The pictures are just astonishing! Someday I'll come back to Europe and explore the Scandinavian countryside.
It looks so effortless for Norwegians to merge their structures with nature over there
7
Like another commentator, we went straight from Gothenburg to Norway, and was one of the first cars on the Aurlandsfjellet road from Laerdal to Aurlandsvagen. The route climbed for forest at sea level to a moonscape of ice, water, rocks and 15 foot snow drifts, then back down to the spectacular Stegastein lookout over Aurlandsfjord. My wife says that the view through the window of the women's bathroom is not to be missed! Also not to be missed is the installation called Vedahaugane, where you can sit and survey the view, or go inside and contemplate what happens during the winter hibernation, when the road was closed. The artist, by the way, is an American, Mark Dion.
6
I had the privilege and delight to spend two weeks with friends exploring Norway back in the summer of 1990, and those memories have not faded a bit. It is a spectacular place of truly indescribable beauty.
8
I did an 11 day hike (12 years ago?) arranged via the Norwegian Alpine Club ... in a mountainous area between Oslo and Bergen. The particular hiking trails we took didn't hit any architectural sights (although some of the rural thatch covered homes - many quite luxurious - were noteworthy), the entire countryside was exquisitely beautiful.
9
Yes, thanks for that. It was a lovely escape this morning before facing city traffic, and makes me want to start saving for a long dreamt of trip to Scandinavia.
10
Norway is fabulous - not just for the great scenery, but also the people who are among the world's must honest and trustworthy. Are these souvenirs made here or in China I asked. I was told which ones were from where. People in Norway trust each other more than in most countries for good reason. As for the prices - compare them to prices for similar food (if you could even get such food) at other places in the world so far north. Norway looks pretty good in such a comparison. Wonderful country!
28
In a globe-trot in 1985, I spent October with distant relatives in Norway -- Risor, Oslo, Bergen -- and though I didn't know the language, I was always treated beautifully by everyone I encountered. And as described in this wonderful article, the beauty remains an eternal complex image.
While tourism for any country like this is a mixed blessing, I do hope Norway may resist becoming the Yellowstone of Scandinavia. Certainly the rate of exchange and the chill factor will help.
11
Unfortunately that is happening in some places like Trolltunga, a "troll" like tongue of rock overlooking a spectacular fjord. It's a seven hour hike to get to, over 1800 people visited in one day this past August. The unfortunate part is the lack of respect foreign visitors have for such a pristine area, leaving trash everywhere. It's becoming a big problem.. bummer.
1
God bless the Norwegians. They know the world rightly: a cherished moment shaped by the heart, viewed as though a brother, a sister, a mother, a father of us all.
Grey hewn, tactile, skirting the high snows, lacing the ocean, the mother of all.
39
Are the scenic roads good for cycling or are they too busy with traffic?
1
Norway is a fantastic country for cycling with many enthusiasts. A little Internet search will suggest many possibilities.
6
Yes, they are good for cycling and safe judged by the number of accidents. Feeling safe and secure depends on you.
I guess the answer to that is not clear cut; some are good for cycling, some are less so. As mentioned in the article, most of these roads are less crowded outside the major tourist season, but then the weather has a tendency to be bad (or worse). However, check out this website for some inspiation and recommended routes on two wheels: https://www.vegtur.cc/
1
Two weeks in Norway this summer left me with many of the same impressions. Beautiful landscapes, thoughtful people, and innovative design of the public realm. And a government with enough insight and courage to invest North Sea oil profits in elegant infrastructure with long term benefits for everyone.
31
My wife and I visited Norway where she was invited to lecture outside of Oslo. It's a great place to start with both the Munch Museum (home of the "Scream") and the truly amazing Vigeland Park--the most amazing sculpture park I've ever seen. From there we were advised to fly north of the Arctic Circle (it was June) to the Lofoten Islands where the scenery is both other worldly and dramatic and the sun never sets (in summer). It's a beautiful country made even more so by the Norwegians themselves.
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I wish there were more pictures. It is good to see that these modern, cutting edge developments blend so beautifully with their surroundings - instead of trying to dominate the landscape. Could the fact that Norway has a small population have anything to do with that? Perhaps there are lessons here for the rest of us - small is beautiful - especially when it comes tp population.
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Norway is one of the most sparsely populated countries in Europe. It has the land mass of Germany, but only 5 million people compared to 70 million. Personally I like the space this provides.
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We visited Norway this summer on a fjords cruise, and were likewise impressed with the organic quality of the architecture. (I'd love to see the National Park Service hire some of these architects for a new wave of 'parkitecture.') We already want to return to Norway--with a car--because there's so much we missed.
While my article is hardly as poetic as the author's here, I shared photos from our experience doing Trollstigen here: http://www.travelcaffeine.com/trollstigen-norway-trolls-path-tips/
Amazing photos! Next stop, Norway for me! Thanks! :)
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I have been many times to Norway to visit a person I was dating (lived in NYC) . We took a trip to Nesna above the Arctic circle to see his parents. We drove from Oslo, about 12 hours It hink through fjords, about 4 ferries, and dozens of waterfalls . It was the most beautiful and both stark and lush.
There are churches that are 1000 years old built of wood. You can drive for 30 minutes down a fjord looking at the same view that seems to go on forever. One road in july had snow that was 12 feet deep on both sides. Most of the area is not passable in winter due to snow fall. The people are wonderful. Everyone speaks perfect english as it is taught in grade school. the food is largely awful. Thankfully there are afghani places to dine from the refugees that came on the 80s. It is also very expensive beyond imagination. Taxes are very high on alcohol. Still as the richest nation from one of the poorest nations they are a wonderful peace loving intelligent amazing nation. I am so glad that i got to see so much of the place. The USA has much to learn from a nation that gives the Noble Prize . Thanks for this article.
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I share your love for Norway. A nit picking clarification: it is the Nobel Peace Prize that is awarded by an institute in Oslo. The other Nobels are awarded by the Swedish Academy. A Swede, Alfred Nobel, who became very rich after inventing the process for turning highly unstable nitroglycerine into relatively stable dynamite, established the Peace Prize and the initial Swedish Nobels in his will.
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Having lived there in the 70's when the food could kindly described as "plain" travel by now wealthy Norwegians (oil money) has changed their food dramatically. It is much more of a world cuisine in and of itself. They have also received immigrants from all over the world and many have started restaurants. The best Thai food I've had in my life was in Bodo, north of the Arctic Circle! The Norwegian owner had gone on holiday to Thailand, met a top chef, and married her. They were flying produce in from Thailand 3 times per week! I'm ready to go back any time.
Having made the trip to Nesna many times for the same reason, I enjoyed another perspective. Thanks largely to continuing immigration from many cultures, the food experience in Norway is becoming more diverse, less expensive and improving. "Pizza and kebabs" is typical. It helps to know local culture and how to supplement from food markets. I personally solved the cost of alcohol by discovering that berries found in nature are great for making wine. Nevertheless, that solution requires a longer stay. Every region in Norway has guidebooks for cycling and walking tours for all ability levels, in addition to road trips.
Okay. I will start planning a trip to Norway; hopefully I will get there before I die.... Seduced by the scenery in the article's pictures. Wonderful - even magical - beauty
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I have to kinda wonder why the Vikings ever left...
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It gets cold. And prior to the oil strikes of the 1970s it was a poor country.
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Not much arable land, that's why.
Gorgeous areas. But you can find surprising similar terrain in the very North Highlands of Scotland and it is a lot less trouble for an American to visit/get around/currency values there, while still being remote. The Scottish Isle of Skye (also northern) offers quite a few spectacles while also being remote and similar terrain to Norway. Norway's mountains and valleys are indeed more numerous and more dramatic -- no argument there. But the Scotland Highlands wont break the bank to visit it.
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Thanks for the tip, but did you not read... The Journey Is the Destination. LOL. Having is hard to get to is half the fun. Americans: My family goes to the north shore of Lake Superior, which looks so much like these photos, and it's also a great trip, if you have the right attitude. We go up where the road narrows, where wolves, moose and the mountain lions can be found, if you keep your eyes open. The land up there looks as intimidating and dangerous as these mountains.
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The Highlands of Scotland are wonderful, but the point of this trip is to see the architecture as well as the scenery.
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"But the Scotland Highlands wont break the bank to visit it."
The above was my point but if you have money to burn by all means check out Norway, which is jaw-dropping beautiful at certain times of the year.
I've always wanted to visit Norway and that article and aerial video sealed the deal.
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This looks amazing. How many days did you take to do this trip?
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The video says it: seven weeks!
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The video is produced by a different set of travelers who did spend seven weeks on the road. Below the photo of the Atlantic Road is the phrase "as I drove for five days".
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I started following Lofoten Islands of Norway on Instagram after the NY Times wrote a Travel piece about it. If you want to gaze at otherworldly beauty on your phone every day, take a look and follow the page. It's breathtaking.
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BRING MONEY: Friends just visited Norway to see a former exchange student, now an adult. Thankfully, the American couple were able to stay with the former student. The exchange rate is horrible, a dollar is worth thirteen cents. The couple spent eighty dollars to eat a at a fast food establishment.
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This USA currency issue is true in virtually ALL of Northern Europe. If you go, you should stay away from shops and restaurants if at all possible (difficult I know). You would be better off renting a place with a kitchen and going to the local grocery store, which still wont be cheap. The dark secret about Northern Europe is that everything is very very heavily taxed, which works out OK if you LIVE there because many social services are provided to citizens. But visitors will be shocked what a pizza costs out-of-pocket at the corner restaurant.
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Don't eat fast food at the arctic circle.
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I'm an American living in Norway. You're right, it's expensive - but not that expensive. You'll never pay eighty dollars for fast food as your friends claim to have done. But yes, bring money. Stay with friends or in Airbnb's so you don't have to eat out for every meal. If you like the outdoors, Norway is a great place to go.
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While the vistas here are quite lovely, nothing really stacks up against the landscape of the Lofoten peninsula just north of the Arctic circle. The drive from Narvik Airport to Å is otherworldly.
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Hard to get any more beautiful than that. Great pictures.
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Last summer I fulfilled lifetime dream and picked up a new Volvo at the factory in Gothenburg, Sweden. Two weeks driving in Norway were epic. The first cool roadside design pavilion we came upon was north of Lillehammer. It provides a view across lake Atnsjøen to the Rondane mountains, the precise view we had seen the day before in Harold Sohlberg's beloved painting at the National Gallery in Oslo. Some advice if you want any: If you are driving the Trollstigen up to the buildings pictured here, and you should, go as early as possible. You don't want to drive those switchbacks behind rows of belching tour buses (we left from charming art-nouveau Alesund, about an hour away). Drive south to Geiranger and then again up the mountain above the town for a view of the fjord you will never forget. Driving south again toward the Sognefjord, skirting a national park, you will climb up to to a glacial plateau that feels like the top of the world. In late June, we saw athletes training by running barefoot on the road next to others who were cross-country skiing. Can't wait to go back to drive farther north than we managed this time. There is also a program to add contemporary art installations along the highways which will be added incentive to drive the terrific Norwegian highway system.
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Absolutely awesome. The architecture is beautiful to match the scenery.
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I deliberately take a road trip alone to feel that intensified melancholy sensation. As you pass through new scenes, your thoughts also wonder in the past. It makes you feel the life you're living more deeply and sadly!
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Yup - the unexpected architectural richness described here mirrors my recent experience exactly. I was puzzled and then delighted to discover the orange-and-milled-steel geometric restrooms that pop up around the coast of the remote arctic island of Senja in northern Norway. Notwithstanding the concrete prism, the waffles with lingonberry sauce served at the Trollsteigen pavilion are anything but modern! However the air-drying cod in little fishing villages outside Tromso quickly bring one back to geographical reality.
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What a wonderful escape from 10/16/2017. The photography is exceptional, especially in the trip along the Atlantic Road. I enjoyed being away.
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I'm lucky to have traveled to many parts of the world. And these areas really are among the most beautiful on the planet. Do remember that we have many areas that are just as beautiful, although without this type of architecture. Some of the areas can get crowded between roughly mid June to mid Aug though.
Nearly all norwegians speak english well, and norwegian road safety is very high. Parts of the roads can be both steep, bumpy and narrow though.
For driving, late May/early June until early Oct is usually snow free. And some of the scenic tourist routes are closed during winter. Here is a video of this years snow clearing of the pass above Trollstigen : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WubkzJyU0r8
My personal favourite is probably early June. Green, lush valleys, waterfalls in full flow and driving between meters of snow at the mountain passes. Unbeatable. The fall before the leaves come off can also be eyewatering beautiful. (I'm a keen hobby photographer).
Not a cheap country to stay in. but far less expensive for americans the last few years given a favourable exchange rate USD/NOK. The food scene has also impoved a lot the last 20 years.
So do some planning, book a flight and a car and set aside a week at least.
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