Lively and Refreshing Wines at the Right Price

Jul 13, 2017 · 20 comments
Dan Barron (New York)
The Cantinarte Ode with the Striped Bass all'Amatriciana was delicious. Of course, its relatively light weight helped, but how so tanniny a wine managed to go so comfortably with the fish is not something I understand. A side of bitter roasted broccoli rabe was also lovely with both the seafood pasta (bucatini with extra all'Amatriciana sauce) and with the wine. A wonderful dinner.
a home cook (chicago)
Why were there no Italian brachettos mentioned in this article? Is it just not possible to find good examples of this wine in the US?
Norman Canter, M.D. (N.Y.C.)
I am currently working my way through a bottle of Montepulciano de Abruzzo which was pleasant when opened, quite interesting after 24 hours, and increasingly complex and enjoyable after 48 and 72 hours. It is a very inexpensive bottle.
Jason Carey (Washington Dc)
There are Montepulcianos I enjoy a lot, however, I don't feel that given them in any kind of blind tasting situation, I would ever be able to identify one. I am not saying that as a put down, but I just don't feel that the grape really has any identifiable characteristic that makes it unique beyond a "nice red wine".
Maybe I need to bucke down and do a super deep dive into them, but I doubt I will. That said I do like them sometimes.
Paul Franson (Napa)
Thy make delightful rosés, too, called cerasuolo d'abruzzo, not to be confused with the red variety cerasuolo di Vittoria from Sicily. Cerasoulo means cherry, and explains the name.
Joseph Spellman (Chicago)
Cerasuolo di Vittoria is a DOCG, not a variety; its varieties are nero d'Avola and frappato.
js from nc (Greensboro NC)
As an aside, the most authentic recipes for bucatini all'amatraciana do not include garlic.
Bob Rossi (Portland, Maine)
I've never used garlic with it.
Silence Dogood (Texas)
I very much like this article, but I would be better served as a consumer if a photo of the bottle accompanied the brief rating summary at the end.

This would be especially appreciated when the wines reviewed have French or Italian names. Even as an experience wine drinker, it is much easier to associate a photo with wines I would like to purchase and remember later.
Bob Rossi (Portland, Maine)
That was precisely my thought while reading the article.
RobD (CN, NJ)
i agree, though if one does a Google search on the exact name one can usually find a photo of the bottle.
Max de Zarobe (Montepulciano)
Eric says: "It is obligatory at some point to distinguish between our subject, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a wine made of the montepulciano grape, and the very different wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano made of sangiovese grown in the vicinity of the Tuscan town Montepulciano. Confusing, I know."
Max says: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Vino Nobile have as much in common as Washington D.C. and Washington state. However so many people get confused (even wine professionals).
Wouldn’t it be a smart idea for a journalist of your talent to one day enlighten us? Looking forward
John Daniels (Northwest)
I can't find many Vino Nobile, but I would also be interested in a column on the subject. I have fond memories of drinking it in Montepulciano.
jason carey (new york)
the internet is a great resource to learn things like that
Baaba Maal (Kirkland, WA)
I am delighted at the mention of the MASCIARELLI MARINA CVETIC MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO.
The 2007 vintage ranks as one of the best wines I've had. It was back in 2012 or so at Perbacco in San Francisco. A great meal with a fabulous wine. I am not sure if the 2007 vintage is available anymore, but if you do access to it, then a must have.
John M. (Phila, PA)
Marina Cvetic is a delicious, complex wine and a triumph for Abruzzo. Also fairly reasonable in price.
Steven Baker (Eugene, Oregon)
Surprised that the outstanding traditional Montepulciano from Giovanni and Federico Faraone near Teramo are not mentioned. The entry level Le Vigne (current vintage 2012) is classically proportioned and finely crafted, but the Santa Maria is one of the most opulent and complex Mont d'Abs you will find anywhere today. And its "old school" - made from the oldest vines and aged several years in large cask. The 2007 vintage of this terrific wine is currently available in Oregon for around $30. This small family has been doing this since the 1930s and they alone make a strong case for the potential of this too frequently over-cropped and poorly produced wine.
Todd (Detroit)
A quality Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a bargain. An Abruzzo winemaker on the rise, Cristiana Tiberio is making some fantastic, terroir-driven wines higher up in the Cugnoli area of Pescarese.
Bunk McNulty (Northampton MA)
Pleased to see a Masciarelli wine made the top 10, but perhaps it is worth mentioning that none of these top wines would exist without the pioneering efforts of Gianni Masciarelli, who was the first to envision the Abruzzo region and the Montepulciano grape as capable of producing quality wines. He was first in the region to introduce Guyot vine training, and the first to age his wines in French oak. He was also known to choose the oldest and lowest-yielding vineyards. His original Masciarelli Montepulciano D'Abruzzo remains, to my mind, anyway, a great bargain, the epitome of gulpable pizza wine.
Marc (Vancouver)
Just a query: If the panel tasted 20 wines why are only 10 rated/listed? Why not at least list the other 10 even without rating?