Vegetables With Benefits at ABCV

Jul 03, 2017 · 57 comments
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Weird, pseudo-science claims and vague vibrations aside, I am pleased to see any restaurant compose a vegetarian menu with such art and sophistication. It helps to further the idea that a vegetarian diet is a complete way to eat. It can be difficult for those brought up on meat-centric diets (as I was) to accept a vegetable or grain dish as a main, but one's yen for meat can be assuaged by the adept use of contrasting texture in a dish. If a couple of the dishes described here came up lacking in that regard (and left the reviewer wanting...gasp...tube meat!), perhaps they need to be paired with something else on the menu. (I can see pairing that "crisp, salty, horseradish-spiked sauerkraut" with fingerling potatos roasted at a 500-plus degrees, for instance.)

As for the other disappointing dishes, I can easily imagine fermented carrots overwhelming a nutty wild rice. And the "sparrow's nest of green noodles under a mulch of kale and broccoli" is the sort of thing that keeps me from ordering pasta in most restaurants where the food is this "composed." Pasta should be served quick and sloppy, in my opinion.
Kevin (Ontario)
Millennials !!!
Dr. J (CT)
From the disclaimer: "If you are pregnant, nursing, have a medical condition or take medications, please consult with a healthcare professional before use.” Doesn't this cover half or more of the population at any one time?
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
The warning about "a medical condition or take medication" is of course meaningless nonsense. But I wonder about your number of "half or more of the population": the number of live births in the US is about 1.24% of the population: This or double should also be the number of pregnant women in a year, of whom 50%-80% nurse. I have no numbers on those with unspecified medical conditions or taking unspecified medications, but would they make as much as 50% of the population?
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Even aspirin qualifies as medication, TUVWXYZ, and something as minor as an allergy is a medical condition. So, yes, they would.
Matthew (UWS)
Blows my mind that even restaurants can serve "food" in the form of potentially dangerous supplements. A lay person should NOT be able to willy-nilly add St Johns Wort to food and drink and claim that it helps with mood. This is quackery. Furthermore natural substances can still interact with the cytochrome p 450 system enzymes in the liver and alter a person's prescription drug levels. ABCV is insane - I'm all for delicious vegetarian food, but leave it at that, food, not medicine. The items with potentially dangerous chemicals in them (st johns wort for example) should be banned. This is not a joke but rather a very serious public health threat.
Shiv (New York)
Now that I've gotten better at deciphering Pete Wells' coded messages, I see that ABCV should be avoided at all costs. Love the writing, the Lamborghini line is a keeper!
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Two stars is to be avoided?
MJ (Brooklyn)
I have eaten here and the food is wonderful. I would definitely go back. I'm an omnivore but tend to prefer veggies and I think this menu has something for everyone. Frankly, I think the menu is much more interesting and inventive than if they served meat. I highly recommend the tasting menu - a small group of us got to sample a lot of the menu and it was worth it.
Linda (New York)
Yuk..... I wonder about the prices for no meat on the menu. I make great hummus and will add basil to my next batch so this review wasn't entirely a waste of time.
Cedarglen (<br/>)
This omnivore tends to avoid all veggie menus. I would gladly make an exception for this house. The presentation is wonderful and just screams, "Eat Me!"
Corwin Kilvert (New York, NY)
I appreciate the greater emphasis on the utility of what is being served, though perhaps at times it comes across as too much. It reminds me of going to a museum and staring at a lovely work of art, only in this museum the plaque of the works origin is strangely large and competes with the work itself.

I do think however that we as a culture can afford to spend a bit more energy thinking about what we put into our bodies, what it does to our bodies, what it does to the environment, and on and on? Often we check these questions at the doors of restaurants as casually as our coats, when in reality we should be holding them fast. The way we spend our money, vis a vis dining out, is the best way to demonstrate the values we hold dear.

That being said, sounds ABVC sounds delicious.
ChrisS (Michigan)
"Ingredients whose genes have been monkeyed with are avoided". I am not expert on this subject but I would guess 99.9% of the foods we eat have been genetically monkeyed with through selective breeding/artificial selection.
Liz Swink (Phoenix)
I believe you are correct, although I am not sure I would agree with the "artificial selection" because I am not sure what that means. But (as Neil Degrasse Tyson pointed out)--we wouldn't recognize or even find palatable produce from 100 years' ago.
DMutchler (NE Ohio)
You are splitting hairs at best. By your logic, humans thus have "monkeyed with" genes (we humans generally not "thinning" ourselves out, notwithstanding). It sort of smacks of the chemist I know who says "all fertilizer is composed of chemicals". Well, yes, but there is organic, synthetic, processed, etc.

Consequently, it is not too difficult to assume the meaning is genetically modified anything is avoided, which is a good thing (IMO).
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Selective breeding and genetic modification are not the same thing. In the lab, genetic coding from a firefly can be introduced into the cells of a mouse, resulting in a mouse that glows. You could never achieve that in a millennium of selective breeding. Apples and oranges, Chris.
Karen (Los Angeles)
These foods look delicious
and so healthy. Does he have
a cookbook for the veggie combos?
With food like this why would one even
desire animal flesh? I slowly gave up
all meat - first baby animals like lamb
and veal, then red meat, then chicken and
don't miss any of it. Now off glutens.
Eating great, healthy, slender and never felt better.
He should have 5 stars and a literary citation
for the prose! Next trip to NYC, hello ABCV...
Mike from NYC (Las Vegas)
Sorry, this sounds like the gustatory equivalent of Gwyneth Paltrow's 'Goop' silliness.
Sera Stephen (The Village)
Forgive me, just this once, but this sounds less like cuisine, and more like homework. I care very much about my body, and hope that others do too, and there are many dishes here that I’d love to try. But others, along with my homework, I may just claim the dog ate. Bone Apetit!
Sean Dell (New York)
Doggone, Sera Stephen!
Tournachonadar (Illiana)
Another preciously presented eatery in Manhattan that most readers will probably never visit or even see. But thanks for the exposure to new culinary trends that may afflict the Midwest like a cultural contagion. By the way, this type of food was more prosaically described in my youth as "macrobiotic" and would not have set the diner back as much to partake of its grooviness. The ethos was not exclusivity back then but rather turning people on to something more basic and therefore better.
Nasty Man aka Gregory, an ORPi (old rural person) (Boulder Creek, Calif.)
Nice review; although not as biting as A O Scotts movie reviews, It was subtly negative enough to make me avoid that restaurant… Not that I "do" restaurants anymore. What is vegan?
PacNW (Cascadia)
Always choose compassion over cruelty against the defenseless. Live non-violently.
Sera Stephen (The Village)
Forgive me, just this once, but this sounds less like cuisine than like homework. I care very much about my body, and hope that others do too, and there are many dishes here that I'd be happy to eat, but some, like my homework, I may just claim the dog ate.
Karen Davis (Machipongo, VA)
I am always delighted to read about the progress being made toward plant-powered cuisine. I cherish the day when no animal is ever again led into a slaughterhouse for "food" we do not need at all. We have the creative capacity to get the slaughterhouse out of our kitchens and off our plates. This is the direction and the goal that I welcome and work toward with all my heart.
C Merkel (New Jersey)
I cherish the day when every pious, self-righteous, city-dwelling, dilettante has to grow their own food. That should keep them busy enough to let me read the news in peace.
Upstater (NY)
@Karen Davis: If we do not slaughter the animals we already have as "Feed stock", ultimately they will eat all of the existing vegetation on the planet as their population explodes, and we will starve to death, and our "pets" will, as well. How can we reduce their numbers......ever consider that?
John Dawson (Brooklyn)
While we should eat far less meat that we do, and the meat we do consume should only be humanely raised, I can't see myself ever giving up meat as long as their are people who feel the need hide from what we are which is omnivores. A much lower amount of meat would be great for our health and our environments, life feeds on life. I've learn so much more respect for life from working with small farmers and slaughtering animals properly than i've ever seen from the self-righteous and selfish vegan and vegetarians who would rather bury their heads in the sand and ignore the reality that life isn't all roses and champagne.
M. (The West Coast)
I visited Jean-George in 2011 and enjoyed my stay. I'm intrigued by the push for high end, plant based dining. Regardless, I have no interest in supporting this chef by the people he chooses to continue associating with, who certainly have no long term interest in the environment.
cu (ny)
In order to avoid doing my own homework, could you please let me know with whom V associates?
Passion for Peaches (Left Coast)
Bourdain?
oneopinion (white plains)
I love gourmet vegetarian cuisine.
Still I used to get a boost from having the cheapest meal at the table on any given night out :)
No more it seems.
Ralph Appel (Fullerton, CA)
I don't know if this is true of ABCV, but in my experience many vegetarian and vegan restaurants use too much salt and sodium. Their chefs seem to believe that salt "adds flavor" and compensates for other missing ingredients. To be true "warrior[s] against hypertension and heart disease” these chefs and restaurants often need to dramatically reduce the sodium content of their food.
Kathleen (Denver)
These comments reveal so much of what's wrong with Americans and food---over intellectualization, pseudo-science, the delusion of control over one's medical destiny. Food becomes a joyless exercise in self-maintenance, rather than a simply human ritual.
Americans have forgotten how to eat regular meals for pleasure. Mushrooms and onions are delicious--and eating them at home, sitting down with one's family, makes them even more pleasurable. And during the family meal, attempt o discuss something real, not the made-up mysticism of your dinner's supposed powers.
sage55 (northwest ohio)
Ah Kathleen, we do have control over our medical destiny. Nutrition trumps genetics or can make it more manageable. It's a cop out to dismiss how much we can help ourselves. For so many who are enjoying plant based diets, we are doing so without the scientific discussion, because its basically common sense!
ABCV's attempt to educate would be hard to swallow, because most of us want deliciousness. Because that trumps 'its good for you'.
Go to the FORKS OVER KNIVES website to witness some medical destiny.
mwm (Washington, DC)
I agree with and like everything you said, except for the first phrase about "these comments." There are only 16 comments at the moment, and nearly all of them are fairly reasonable and moderate.
Kathleen (Denver)
No I disagree. You can eat all of the "superfoods" and "#1 anti cancer" mushrooms you possibly can--and still get cancer. All of the "anti-aging" foods in the world will not prevent you from aging.
The best thing is to eat real food for satiety and pleasure. I suspect this actually results in better health, and allows us to enjoy the animal gratification of eating in our brief time on earth.
Laura (NJ)
This is a decent start, i guess, but when are chefs going to ditch the butter and oil? Many plant-based eaters shun oil because it decimates the vascular system. (yeah, yeah, I know. Hordes of people are going to jump in here and defend "heart-healthy" oils. Sorry to disappoint you, but olive oil isn't healthy either. It's less destructive than other oils, but still doesn't stop heart disease. Neither does coconut oil.)

Mr. Vongerichten, with a little deeper study, could also provide much more significant nutritional advice. For instance, mushrooms are the most powerful anti-cancer food available (as are onions), and eating just 1 ounce a day can have tremendous protective benefits. I guess focusing on "vibrations" is a shrewd marketing ploy, but why not be super-intelligent about the benefits of plant-based eating?

For more information, read Joel Fuhrman's Eat to Live and other books, or those of his peers: T. Colin Campbell, Caldwell Esselstyn, Dr. Neal Barnard, and others.
MikeyNYC (New York, NY)
Restaurants don't exist to educate the public about one type of food or another, even though some establishments are more transparent about their ingredients and preparations than others. I think it's wonderful that there are vegetarian and vegan restaurants whose offerings far surpass the limp salads and tofu concoctions of the past, but I wouldn't want to eat at such a place all of the time. I wholly dislike vegetarians and vegans who preach their gospel of health and well-being without first asking if those who are listening wish to sit through their lecture. We are each responsible for educating ourselves about the food we purchase and consume and while I do like to eat "healthy" most of time, I also occasionally like to eat food prepared with butter and oil and sugar and yes, even a thick and juicy filet mignon now and again. I have no problem with more vegan and vegetarian restaurants, just not at the expense of other cuisines.
Tom (Manhattan)
Who sponsored the studies you cited?
JeffP (Brooklyn)
Where did you go to medical school, and where do you practice? I need to avoid you and your specious "medical" knowledge.
Jane Coffey (Brooklyn)
The article doesn't mention whether they use only organic fruits and vegetables. Many fruits and vegetables retain high concentrations of the pesticides used on non-organic crops. Though the chemical/pharmaceutical industry does its best to obscure the role pesticides have in the tremendous increase in cancer rates among the US population there are abundant studies to show a correlation.
Stacy (Falls Church, VA)
And yet they serve alcohol, which I'm pretty sure would quash any subtle plant-based "high vibrations" you might get from the food. Reminds me of what I thought when the local Whole Foods converted a big chunk of its store to a beer bar: Mixed messages, people.
Humanesque (New York)
I think that's a good thing actually. I am a vegan and often frustrated that a restaurant I'll go to has AMAZING food, but no drinks-- so not great for special occasions like a birthday or going-away party. People who want to eat healthy aren't necessarily straight-edge, and I think more health=conscious restaurants should at least offer two or three types of wine. People who object to such items don't have to order them.
Steven Gournay (New York)
I truly question the validity of a 100% plant-based diet. Every time I have lived as a total vegetarian, my sugar cravings soar to uncontrollable levels, particularly for dried fruits and sweets, not to mention creating a tendency to binge eat.

Give me a breakfast of 2/3 cup quinoa, 2 poached eggs, and 1 well cooked strip of bacon crumbled on top and I go into a Zen trance. Animal proteins promote healing, lower cholesterol, prevent binging, and promote better sleep and general well being, at least in my life.

On the contrary, on a vegetarian diet my pollen allergies are much worse, while sugar provokes hip and sacral pain and cluster migraines. No thanks. My apologies to the great chef!
Humanesque (New York)
Depends on how long you did it for. Like any other major lifestyle change, there are adjustments, and not all of them are pleasant. But if ou stick with it long enough, as you expand your palate and discover plant-based proteins that make you feel fuller, your sugar cravings will subside.
Steven Gournay (New York)
I most likely would have to consult a nutritionist who can set up a regime centered on plant-based proteins; otherwise it would be a lot of hit and miss.
sage55 (northwest ohio)
It sounds like you need to stop eating sugary foods altogether. Look into an anti-candida diet. Sugary foods include dried fruits, fresh fruits or anything with added sugar. Be honest about cutting back on processed foods.
Add that to your occasional animal protein allowances and you are going to feel even better.
Ralph Grove (Virginia)
A plan based diet is not only healthy for the body, it's also healthy for the planet. Animal agriculture is responsible for about a fifth of the emissions driving climate change, and is also a major factor in water pollution and deforestation. Removing most meat from our diets is one of the easiest things we can do to end the ongoing destruction of our natural environment. The status quo is not an option.
Nasty Man aka Gregory, an ORPi (old rural person) (Boulder Creek, Calif.)
What about Having a sufficient amount of raw Trump in your diet? I've heard, but it may be a farce, that a sufficient amount of raw Trump in your daily intake is very important for a shortened lifespan.
Brad Hendricks (Washington DC)
Great writing again from Pete Wells, especially the Lamborghini line.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Usually I stay away from vegetarian cuisine and eateries because vegetarianism (1) is not compatible with evolution of human species that is panphagous or omnivorous, and (2) it was considered a sin by Saint Augustine.
However, the photos of the vegetarian dishes in Mr. Wells's article made me change my mind: I would dearly like to taste slides 1, 5, 7, and 9.
Jen in Astoria (Astoria, NY)
Agreed but citation for Augustine please?
A Smith (Miami)
Let's see how much longer the human species' planet lasts consuming the amount of meat it does now. Animal agriculture at its current scale is a top reason we won't have time to evolve much further.
Ralph Grove (Virginia)
Evolution hasn't stopped. It's time for humanity to evolve into a species that can live in harmony with the rest of nature, as we once did. That will require an end to factory farming of meat and to a gross reduction in consumption of meat.
julie (New York)
ABCV Is great - so worth checking out. I love to eat meat but I have been enjoying eating here once a month or so. It has yet to match Avant Garden, though!
Nasty Man aka Gregory, an ORPi (old rural person) (Boulder Creek, Calif.)
Thank you Julie for the honest, real-person review. I (wish) I could wax philosophical about the merits of eating - or not eating dead animal flesh, but my stomach tells me to do otherwise; although, because of my type two diabetes, I (should) have to limit food intake, which is not an unreasonable idea, but why skimp and save when you can crave and binge?