I enjoyed reading this article and seeing Cumberland Island through the eyes of a food writer. I had never seen the national park in this light. I am mostly concerned however with the talk about the Camden County Spaceport. The spaceport, once it's built will be only 5 miles away from Cumberland Island. I am worried that the spaceport could disrupt the wilderness experience that visitors to the park are looking for and that the sounds and vibrations along with potential pollution could disrupt the habitats of many threatened and endangered species that the island houses. These species include loggerhead sea turtles and right whales both of which have their babies on or near the island. I agree that the Cumberland Island is more valuable than money and I hope that the people that are in favor of the construction of the spaceport can agree with this too.
1
I was thrilled to see an article on Cumberland Island; I was disappointed to see no mention of Carol Ruckdeschel. This woman is almost entirely responsible for the preservation of Cumberland as wilderness; the Carnegie heirs were hardly involved and were in fact opposed to many of Carol's efforts to save the wild parts of the island from becoming condos and golf courses. I expect more nuance and research from the New York Times. Those who know Carol's story will be outraged by an article that omits her from the history of the island as one cannot exist without the other.
2
Thank you! My grandfather was a very dear friend of hers and lived on the island with her in the last years of his life. My mother has been involved with several environmental groups including the Center for a Sustainable Coast, and Wild Cumberland, and has been collaborating with her to oppose private development on the island for years. I have read the NYT since childhood and I am, as you suggest, outraged that this article paints the current wilderness experience of Cumberland Island as entirely the result of the Carnegie's "preservation efforts." Carol's stewardship of the island has been paramount to its survival as a wilderness area, and she gets no recognition except to be portrayed as a "wild woman" to be gawked at by "novelists," as opposed to biographers, like Will Harlan. She is family to me, and I bid the journalists at NYT to revise their research and report with more justice to the story.
As visitors from Oz, we recently enjoyed my favourite BBQ meats about 10 miles north of there - at Southern Soul Barbeque on Sea Island - https://goo.gl/maps/exNeguKRHM22
Driving to/from there I really liked the leafy housing in the adjacent town of Brunswick GA - I thought 'I'd like to come back and spend more time he'ah!'
Driving to/from there I really liked the leafy housing in the adjacent town of Brunswick GA - I thought 'I'd like to come back and spend more time he'ah!'
Cumberland--Keep out?
How can Cumberland Island discriminate in favor of certain families, if much of it is under the National Park Service. Why report on a place so restrictive? If it isn't, the story is confusing.
How can Cumberland Island discriminate in favor of certain families, if much of it is under the National Park Service. Why report on a place so restrictive? If it isn't, the story is confusing.
1
The Island is under the National Park Services to oversee and maintain in return for letting the few descendants of the original families to stay on. Because of this arrangement the island is still unspoilt by rampant development or overrun by tourists unlike so many other lovely places.
1
If only that mansion had been built with a roof other than wood...
The Park Service is there to serve the interests of all the people. If it can't be flexible with allowing cars on an island longer than Manhattan, it may very well be time for that state's own parks agency to take over management of it.
It's always better for decision to be made as close to the place in question than in a faraway Kremlin. What we always see from U.S. gov't bureaucrats are devious empire-building and wacko politics.
The Park Service is there to serve the interests of all the people. If it can't be flexible with allowing cars on an island longer than Manhattan, it may very well be time for that state's own parks agency to take over management of it.
It's always better for decision to be made as close to the place in question than in a faraway Kremlin. What we always see from U.S. gov't bureaucrats are devious empire-building and wacko politics.
Clearly you've never been to Cumberland Island. Cars would ruin it.
8
ideologue
All those horses are in poor condition and some have EIA.. Our former congressman refused to have the infectious ones culled so God only knows how many are infecting and killing the others. I am an animal rights person but if a horse near me had EIA I'd be freaking out. I grew up and retired to the same house on a deep water river between Ossabaw and Warsaw islands, so I have known the coastal islands all my life from my father taking us out in his chris craft all the time. The islands are beautiful except tybee and should be protected. So see Sapelo and all the others.
Thanks for a fine article.
All of the horse stories may well be true. When working as a natural resource planner on coastal protection during the Carter (Governor Carter, that is) administration, I learned much about local history and lore, horses included. When the Spanish controlled much of the coastal Southeast, Spanish troops used small-but-stout horses for military purposes. When the English defeated the Spanish in the New World, the Spanish left behind their horses and fled. Naturally,the Cumberland horses became wild. Centuries later, some of the industrial elite vacationing on Cumberland introduced and trained Kentucky thoroughbred race horses on the island. Many of those horses bred with the little Spanish horses, resulting in herds of unique, and most unusual-looking steeds, which inhabit the island to this day.
All of the horse stories may well be true. When working as a natural resource planner on coastal protection during the Carter (Governor Carter, that is) administration, I learned much about local history and lore, horses included. When the Spanish controlled much of the coastal Southeast, Spanish troops used small-but-stout horses for military purposes. When the English defeated the Spanish in the New World, the Spanish left behind their horses and fled. Naturally,the Cumberland horses became wild. Centuries later, some of the industrial elite vacationing on Cumberland introduced and trained Kentucky thoroughbred race horses on the island. Many of those horses bred with the little Spanish horses, resulting in herds of unique, and most unusual-looking steeds, which inhabit the island to this day.
Pardon my cynicism, but "if the money is gone anyway" you can rest assured that backroom deals are underway to rezone and replenish coffers. It's just business, southern style.
I'm sorry but why is your photo editor allowing a landscape with a crooked horizon? I couldn't get past the photo, which would otherwise be beautiful, to read the article.
1
Some years ago, when we didn't live at Wrightsville Beach NC, itself an island, we would take our family of 6 to Cumberland for the week between Christmas and New Year's, tent camping at the beach site with the armadillos, spending New Year's Eve at the lodge and celebrating with the other guests and members of the Carnegie family. Heaven on earth!
3
Beautiful article. Great picture too. I live here and have all my life. I have spent many a day in my younger days on this island. It is just as described, I can close my eyes and go back in time reading this. I have never had the luxury though of spending the night at the Inn. I hope they can keep this island just as it is today so generations can enjoy what I have enjoyed growing up.
11
I also hope it can stay pristine, but development by the Candler Family of Atlanta poses a risk.
4
Cumberland Island sounds wonderful to visit, but the author of this column should limit her remarks to aspects of the island that she knows something about. The idea that wild horses do the same damage as the feral pigs is way off the mark. Pigs dig up the cord grass roots, and may eat the turtle eggs, too, since they are omnivorous.
I'm assuming that someone on the island told her this, and it's the same rationale that cattlemen use to justify slaughtering wild horses in the west so that they can graze their cattle for a couple of dollars a year on publicly owned lands.
I'm assuming that someone on the island told her this, and it's the same rationale that cattlemen use to justify slaughtering wild horses in the west so that they can graze their cattle for a couple of dollars a year on publicly owned lands.
6
Never trust a travel writer who sleeps through the hummingbirds.
10
Take a look at St. Simons Island and Jekyll Island just 45 minutes north of St. Marys and one will see how some locals and visitors can not embrace a change to the pristine beauty and rich history Cumberland Island offers. We enjoy the laid back vibe of our town and being able to launch our boats over to the island when we need an even more relaxed feeling. We enjoy showing out of towners our little corner of Georgia and seeing their eyes light up at it's awe and hearing them say " You are so lucky to live here".
7
Beautiful pictures. Thanks for a great article.
4
The place was full of biting bugs, and snakes. Of course, I was there in 1865.
2
they labor to keep it as it was; so it's still full of biting bugs & snakes.
1
When will Donnie Dollars build a golf course there to complete the island rejuvenation? That would be merely logical, given its recent history.
2
Over the years, I have greatly enjoyed the scope and quality of the New York Times. The reporting has always seemed exemplary and well worth reading.
But, I see a pattern that makes me question the integrity of this paper. When I did a search for this story on Cumberland Island, I noticed two other stories which all had the same scope. They focused on the wealthy landowners, namely the Ferguson family and glamorized their lives. From "Cumberland's Peaceable Kingdom" which ran on 2/25/2001, to "I Traveled to a Magical Island - Alone", 1/25/2017, to today's article "On a Georgia Island, a Lot of Good Food and Plenty of Nothing." All three of these articles carried the same theme and praise for the wealthy landowners on Cumberland and very little if any discussion about others, like Carol Ruckdeshel who has devoted most of her life to preserving this beautiful gem along the Georgia coast. There is discussion about the history on the island, a romanticized account of the gallant captains of industry from the gilded age. But, nowhere do you dive into the tough issues surrounding the threat to the island coming from these landowners. One-thousand acres forming a strangling belt across the middle of the island with the potential for one house on every 15 acres. This will ruin the wilderness experience that thousands enjoy annually (this area is just north of the main camping area in Sea Camp) and will change the landscape of the island forever.
But, I see a pattern that makes me question the integrity of this paper. When I did a search for this story on Cumberland Island, I noticed two other stories which all had the same scope. They focused on the wealthy landowners, namely the Ferguson family and glamorized their lives. From "Cumberland's Peaceable Kingdom" which ran on 2/25/2001, to "I Traveled to a Magical Island - Alone", 1/25/2017, to today's article "On a Georgia Island, a Lot of Good Food and Plenty of Nothing." All three of these articles carried the same theme and praise for the wealthy landowners on Cumberland and very little if any discussion about others, like Carol Ruckdeshel who has devoted most of her life to preserving this beautiful gem along the Georgia coast. There is discussion about the history on the island, a romanticized account of the gallant captains of industry from the gilded age. But, nowhere do you dive into the tough issues surrounding the threat to the island coming from these landowners. One-thousand acres forming a strangling belt across the middle of the island with the potential for one house on every 15 acres. This will ruin the wilderness experience that thousands enjoy annually (this area is just north of the main camping area in Sea Camp) and will change the landscape of the island forever.
35
Thank you for this. I found the rhapsodizing more than a little twee.
that's not all. the article also made scant mention of the history of african-americans who labored & died enslaved on the island. who were the slave owners who owned the slaves and the island long before carnegie? what that First African Baptist Church and the effort to provide land for the african-americans or their descendants who had lived there, many of whom, presumably, were/are buried there? that's a big part of the islands history, and the writer failed to tell it.
We were married on Gogo's back porch 17 years ago with an outpouring of love from the whole island. Guests from the Inn came by to wish us well, the Park Service was running a wildfire training session, and Gogo invited the fireman to the party. To this day, we still celebrate Thanksgiving on Cumberland with many of the same people mentioned in your article and at least one if not two of the fire brigade. We never take for granted the stewardship of these fine people and their willingness to share their beloved island with everyone. It is hard work living on an island and even more challenging to run an Inn -- especially the way Mitty and Mary Ferguson do it. You never feel like a 'guest' but as a welcome extended family member. They are pioneers in 'giving' and 95% of the island has been donated or sold to the NPS at a price far lower than they would have received from developers. The horses have been there since the 1500s and the families care for them as much as you can in the wild. We have watched Gogo, Nanny Copp,the late great Lucy Foster and the strong women (and men) of Cumberland Island steward the island in a creative and wonderful way. We appreciate all of their hard work and love.
15
Contrary to many of the posts here GA does a lot to protect its parks and other wild places. Yes, it is challenged often, but the people in GA love the outdoors. FDR had his little white house in Warm Springs and people have not forgotten the role of the CCC. However, Cumberland Island is threatened by development. If you care about the island of preserving a natural place please send your comments to Camden County Planning Commission.
http://jacksonville.com/metro/mark-woods/columnists/2017-03-30/mark-wood...
http://jacksonville.com/metro/mark-woods/columnists/2017-03-30/mark-wood...
21
Privately held property = 900 acres. The entire island is almost 17,000.
9
say no to development leave it alone
20
Thank you for this article. The Cumberland National Seashore is under threat of development. Some of the private landowners are seeking to build a development that will ultimately spoil the pristine barrier island.
At risk as a result of rezoning efforts is the 1000 acres of fee simple property on the island.
“I think it will plunge a knife in the heart of Cumberland Island as a wilderness experience for people,” Alex Kearns is quoted as saying in a Savannah newspaper. “That 1,000 acres is located in the belly of the island.”
At risk as a result of rezoning efforts is the 1000 acres of fee simple property on the island.
“I think it will plunge a knife in the heart of Cumberland Island as a wilderness experience for people,” Alex Kearns is quoted as saying in a Savannah newspaper. “That 1,000 acres is located in the belly of the island.”
28
Please let me say a loud "AMEN" to Hamilton's comments. I live in St. Marys, GA, the gateway to Cumberland Island National Seashore. We love our wild, pristine treasure. There are about 1,000 acres of privately held land which is within the boundaries of the CINS but which is controlled by local zoning. Present zoning says "no residential development." The landowners are seeking rezoning to allow residential development. Many of us here in the St. Marys area are working hard to head off this rezoning: each house would mean a septic system, probably a minimum of two vehicles, beach driving permits, unsightliness, probable loss of ancient live oak trees, trash disposal, emergency services - the list goes on. In addition, rezoning likely will result in a financial bonanza for the private landowners. The CINS is a national treasure which belongs to all Americans. It is one of the last great unspoiled places. It is holy. Please help us protect it.
28
The Yankee (i.e. generationally privileged and sanctimonious opportunists) enigma is interesting, seeing as how one can denigrate a cultural region and its people for so long while simultaneously finding it all so fascinating, so seductive, and so very profitable. Since the NYT began publishing (on the FRONT PAGE no less) these tourist advertisements about the South's lesser-known charms several years ago, floods of developers and the entitled hoards to which they cater have descended on these places in greater numbers than usual. That's all well and good for the construction and hospitality industries and their political cronies, but we know what the long-term results will be. They're the same as they've always been when Yankees discover a new place: the use of financial and media dominance to influence beneficial legislation and seize control of local economies until the resources are either exhausted or the natives fight back. As with Latin America, the Middle East, and even the American South and West, it isn't to humble yourself to the understanding of a non-dominant culture or to assimilate to a new way of life. It is to gain the most for your own interests while giving the minimum in return. Ultimately, though, it's the trampling of the traditions, natural beauty, local economies, and an endangered culture that erodes the very allure they sought out in the first place--all so wealthy Snowbirds can live in someone else's home without feeling like they left their own.
37
Well, first, It's laughable to read a southerner - a Charlestonian, nonetheless - criticize anyone for being "generationally privileged" & sanctimonious. Anyone who has spent even a brief spell in that fair city knows you have to trip just slightly to bump into something that's been named after someone and with long, deep roots in the city. And the pockets that comes with such standing.
Second, this ancient gripe against carpetbaggers is tiresome. We here up in the chilly north have plenty of examples of "southern" business interests stepping into a northern market motivated by the prospect of fat profits only to wreak havoc with their business practices. One could never be sure of this was some regional disconnect or some subversion based on those same ancient post-war resentments.
We also have plenty and I mean plenty of our own natural beauty. And the same corporate bloodsuckers who want to own every acre of it. So don't worry about greedy, privileged northerners sacking your beautiful Islands. Greedy, privileged southerners will take care of it themselves. Bless their hearts.
Second, this ancient gripe against carpetbaggers is tiresome. We here up in the chilly north have plenty of examples of "southern" business interests stepping into a northern market motivated by the prospect of fat profits only to wreak havoc with their business practices. One could never be sure of this was some regional disconnect or some subversion based on those same ancient post-war resentments.
We also have plenty and I mean plenty of our own natural beauty. And the same corporate bloodsuckers who want to own every acre of it. So don't worry about greedy, privileged northerners sacking your beautiful Islands. Greedy, privileged southerners will take care of it themselves. Bless their hearts.
4
Correct. The "yankies" haven't changed much.
2
Oh Patricia, sorry. Let me clarify this in two parts:
1.) Not all Northerners are Yankees; Yankees are Yankees, and they can come from any region at this point. You should research the term to understand the difference. Nonetheless, to say that Northerners are not generationally privileged is a refusal of the facts that prove otherwise. The Northeast is the seat of American mainstream media, academia, and finance, the three main pillars of a society. The NE also has the highest concentration of wealth and the highest population density in the country, meaning there is more funding for subsidized healthcare, education, social services, civil infrastructure, etc. and more weight to throw around in federal Congress. Those are considerable advantages to everyone in the region. Perhaps you've been held aloft on a pedestal where the society around it upholds the self-aggrandizing narratives white Northerners wrote about themselves long ago, a tactic used to convince the masses that they are exceptional and should not question their leaders or themselves. If any criticism or uncomfortable truth spurs such a reactionary entitlement to your privileges, that's probably the case.
1.) Not all Northerners are Yankees; Yankees are Yankees, and they can come from any region at this point. You should research the term to understand the difference. Nonetheless, to say that Northerners are not generationally privileged is a refusal of the facts that prove otherwise. The Northeast is the seat of American mainstream media, academia, and finance, the three main pillars of a society. The NE also has the highest concentration of wealth and the highest population density in the country, meaning there is more funding for subsidized healthcare, education, social services, civil infrastructure, etc. and more weight to throw around in federal Congress. Those are considerable advantages to everyone in the region. Perhaps you've been held aloft on a pedestal where the society around it upholds the self-aggrandizing narratives white Northerners wrote about themselves long ago, a tactic used to convince the masses that they are exceptional and should not question their leaders or themselves. If any criticism or uncomfortable truth spurs such a reactionary entitlement to your privileges, that's probably the case.
1
enjoyed a fabulous wedding there in 1994....it's truly a magical place....
6
You don't have to worry about insect bites if you use TEA TREE SKIN CARE SOAP. The label is an Australian label; THURSDAY PLANTATION. I used to get sandfly and mosquitoe and the occasional flea bite until I started using Thursday Plantation Tea Tree Skin Care Soap and have never had a bite since using the soap. I buy it from the supermarket.
Do a web search: thursday plantation usa
Do a web search: thursday plantation usa
5
Awesome...Is this a public company?
Here here to acknowledging Carol Ruckdeschel for helping bring to light Cumberland Island's environmental richness, and for taking an important role in Cumberland Island's motley history and hard won preservation. Also, thanks to Will Harlan for sharing her with us in his book Untamed--a highly recommended wild read on the Carnegies, the Park Service, sea turtles, wild horses & pigs, Cumberland Island, and life.
15
"Untamed" by Will Harlan is a great read. He is also a very interesting character. Shame on the people who want to develop the island.
11
I shall find this book.
@Felipa Will Harlan's book was an earnest effort to depict her life's work as the keeper of the island, but unfortunately, the story has been altered with much artistic and sensationalist rhetoric in order to appeal to his publishers.
I have been to the island and anybody--not just rich folks--can go to there at any time, with a little forward planning. You don't have to stay at Greyfield, which is not owned or supported by the government--you can camp or do a day trip. There are multiple ferries that go there.
So the the Chicagoans whining about their taxes being used for elitist parks can pipe down. Besides, we'll all be bailing out Illinois and its looming economic/pension problems in a few years, so best that you stay on our good side. I think a day or two on a beautiful, peaceful paradise like Cumberland would do you a world of good. Hope to see you there.
So the the Chicagoans whining about their taxes being used for elitist parks can pipe down. Besides, we'll all be bailing out Illinois and its looming economic/pension problems in a few years, so best that you stay on our good side. I think a day or two on a beautiful, peaceful paradise like Cumberland would do you a world of good. Hope to see you there.
26
I have been there 3 times, camped twice and once a day trip from St Mary's as one of the regular folk- no Inn for me! St Mary's was charming and the hotel across the street was wonderful. It is pristine and I spent an afternoon there frolicking naked in the sand and surf. Heaven! Leave it the way it is please!
23
Interesting that there is no mention of Carol Ruckdeschel who fought tooth and nail against the rich families in order to protect the island and the sea turtles that nest there. She was successful and because of her success the island was not turned into a complete playground. This sugar coated piece by Kim Severson ignores all the history in favor of promoting vacations for relatively well off individuals. Carol Ruckdeschel spent most of her adult life protecting Cimberland Island, even enlisting Jimmy Carter in her efforts. It's thanks to her that the island is so beautiful. Severson should pick up a book.
40
did you or i miss something? she is mentioned....in high esteem.
1
She is not mentioned.
An excellent additional source is Encounters with the Archdruid, published in 1977.
....Charles Fraser, a resort developer who regards all conservationists as druids "religious figures who sacrifice people and worship trees" was a developer of Hilton Head islands Sea Pines Plantation, who has obtained 6000 acres on undeveloped Cumberland Island.....
https://www.amazon.com/Encounters-Archdruid-John-McPhee/dp/0374514313/re...
....Charles Fraser, a resort developer who regards all conservationists as druids "religious figures who sacrifice people and worship trees" was a developer of Hilton Head islands Sea Pines Plantation, who has obtained 6000 acres on undeveloped Cumberland Island.....
https://www.amazon.com/Encounters-Archdruid-John-McPhee/dp/0374514313/re...
I'm disappointed that you didn't further explore the planned development on Cumberland Island. You wax philosophically about how beautiful the island is but didn't bring enough awareness that the island is in danger. I grew up in St. Marys, the gateway to Cumberland Island, and that island is near and dear to my heart. I remember taking school trips out to the island and learning all about the island and its inhabitants. It would be a shame to lose this island to developers. http://savannahnow.com/news/2017-04-09/rezoning-proposed-1000-acres-cumb...
37
NYT missed the mark on this one. Was expecting to see a full spread on the existential threat the island faces from those heirs. Instead, we get a 1/3 of a sentence alluding to it. It would do the paper good to send a national desk reporter back to the island and report on the rezoning of 1,000 acres of the land for development - spearheaded by none other than Sam Candler, heir to the Coca-Cola money. The editors should have devoted this space to the imminent destruction of the island rather than an elegy for the way it will never be again.
77
On Cumberland Island the rich once resided --
But now it is open to tourists, provided
They pay through the nose for the sand and the sea
And maybe the ghost of a lost Carnegie.
The rich don’t buy islands today, for reflection
Shows them it’s cheaper to buy an election.
But now it is open to tourists, provided
They pay through the nose for the sand and the sea
And maybe the ghost of a lost Carnegie.
The rich don’t buy islands today, for reflection
Shows them it’s cheaper to buy an election.
13
And so Gullah/Geechee culture continues to erode so that the rest of us can experience the magic that culture has been forced out of.
8
My first ever camping experience was backpacking on Cumberland. Trekking through the trails, walking alongside the dunes, exploring the ruins of Dungeness and the relic that is Plum Orchard, riding a bike from Seacamp to (almost) First African Baptist Church, the beach at sunrise, and the majesty of the live oaks. I hope the development plans for the island do NOT come to fruition, since this place is magical as it is, and people need to see it in its untamed glory.
17
Georgia has several coastal islands which are are protected from development. Blackbeard, Wolf, and Wassaw are national wildlife refuges; St. Catherine's by a private foundation; Sapelo by the state. Most of these are uninhabited, the exception being Sapelo, which has Hog Hammock where most of the residents are descendants of former slaves; 97% of the island is owned by the state (there is a marine research institute, and the old Reynolds mansion which hosts visiting groups - I think that's it, the rest of the island is kept in its natural state.
Georgia has done well in protecting its coast from development; may it continue.
Georgia has done well in protecting its coast from development; may it continue.
13
Cumberland Island is a national treasure, worth preservation and tradition.
The island is currently in the midst of a crisis: some private landowners want zoning variances to subdivide and open possibility for future residential development. The Southern Environmental Law Center, the National Parks Conservation Association, and others are working to protect the island from future development, and from zoning changes that could set a negative precedent elsewhere. This is unfolding right now at the county commission. It's a shame that the NYTimes article neglected to explore this. For reporting on the issue see: http://savannahnow.com/news/2017-06-02/cumberland-island-wrestling-zonin...
36
Talk about burying the lead! The plan to rezone a small slice of the island should be vigorously opposed. The Carnegie family negotiated the deal for the National Seashore precisely so that Cumberland would avoid the fate of Jekyll Island and other overdeveloped barrier islands. Really, is there nothing that greed won't destroy? What's next, time shares in Yosemite Valley?
48
Where is the rezoning threat coming from? What government has zoning authority and on how much of the island?
5
No, Yosemite will probably be leased to mineral companies. The western Repubs are working on the government (no hard task at this point, I would imagine) to open up our national parks for such endeavors.
Get ready to say bye-bye to our national heritage of unmatched natural beauty as another piece of fallout from unchecked rogue government.
Get ready to say bye-bye to our national heritage of unmatched natural beauty as another piece of fallout from unchecked rogue government.
6
One of the most fascinating people I've ever known was a Carnegie, named Cindy McLaughlin, who lived on Cumberland Island in the winters. My wife and I knew her when she summered in Gloucester. She and her husband, Jay, were sailing buddies at Eastern Point Y C. Cindy and Jay left an indelible mark on us as we moved on in life.
2
I spent a few days at Greyfield Inn with a few long time friends, a reunion of sorts, and it was truly a beautiful experience. The island is so peaceful the planned meals were delicious, The people who ran the Inn and the guest were terrific. May it always remain unchanged and elusive.
2
There is a great piece on Cumberland written by John McFee in a book called "Encounters with the Archdruid" where he, Sierra Club president David Brouwer and a land/resort developer camp on Cumberland Island and debate about how it should be used. It gives a vivid description of the island in it's almost pristine state and is worth a read.
5
McPhee
I was born and grew up in South Carolina many years ago, and so many of the coastal islands used to be similar and beautiful. We used to go to Hilton Head when it had dirt roads. It was fantastic and beautiful. Now in so many of these places it's wall-to-wall development. Thankfully Cumberland has managed to escape the worst of that. It is a treasure. The only way to preserve the few remaining unique and beautiful places is to somehow take them off table for development. I don't pretend to know how to do that, but it's definitely worth doing.
20
We sailed into St Marys and our history with Cumberland Island began. We fell in love with all that it offered and I developed stories to tell about it as well as writing a children's book. My book is sold in the gift shop in St Marys. I love seeing the island maintained its natural environment. We can thank the Carnegies for starting the dream.
I had a very different experience of Cumberland Island, as a primitive camper. I'm grateful to the family for making this island accessible to anyone; it was one of the most beautiful camping experiences of my life.
10
To the rest of the USA:
Robinette Kennedy's comment is spot on. If you are tired of the 1% using their money for leverage, then contact Camden County GA officials and tell them NO NEW DEVELOPMENT ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND.
Robinette Kennedy's comment is spot on. If you are tired of the 1% using their money for leverage, then contact Camden County GA officials and tell them NO NEW DEVELOPMENT ON CUMBERLAND ISLAND.
31
Yup. Can you recommend a good real estate agent?
I would suggest that anyone who has not been to Cumberland island should withhold judgement on its current state, and if you do not value natural settings it's appeal would be lost to you anyway. It is a beautiful place to visit. Why we insist on overbuilding on barrier islands Throughout the coasts and then expect the fed govt to bail out those who get flooded out is the most expensive travesty, not the cost to preserve what is left that is unspoiled by human greed.
9
The Oxford dictionary defines escapism as "The tendency to seek distraction and relief from unpleasant realities, especially by seeking entertainment or engaging in fantasy."
I would say that flying off to Cumberland Island to enjoy a "dreamy life" qualifies as escapism. This article is written for those fortunate few who can practice escapism. It is disappointing that the nytimes.com site would post an article giving the lucky few a route to fantasy, but to place this article on their home page, at the top, proximate to articles describing the London massacre, is a descent into escapism.
placed on the nytimes site
I would say that flying off to Cumberland Island to enjoy a "dreamy life" qualifies as escapism. This article is written for those fortunate few who can practice escapism. It is disappointing that the nytimes.com site would post an article giving the lucky few a route to fantasy, but to place this article on their home page, at the top, proximate to articles describing the London massacre, is a descent into escapism.
placed on the nytimes site
4
Cumberland Island holds a dear place in my heart. I visited back in 1980 while on a college internship at the Skidaway Institute of Oceanography and I still vividly remember the ruins of Dungeness, the beaches coated with whelk shells, the big trees, the horses. To a girl who grew up in the shadow of NYC, the island was like stepping back in time. My friends and I had the place to ourselves.
I'm with the Georgians who say, let this place be. But do draw attention to this abominable news: the effort to rezone 1,000 acres of privately held property. That must not happen.
I'm with the Georgians who say, let this place be. But do draw attention to this abominable news: the effort to rezone 1,000 acres of privately held property. That must not happen.
12
It is too bad it's in Georgia. Touting nature as the voters there elect Republicans who will destroy it. I'll spend my money in places where people care about the environment not just gain from those who care about it.
4
Truly a gem, Cumberland Island is amazing. We celebrated my mom's 70th birthday at the Greyfield last year. With multiple daytrips to choose from, grab a picnic basket from the kitchen and spend the day outside. You can bring your own mountain bikes on the ferry. A quick ride to the beach yields a view of no human in either direction, as far as you can see.
6
Mosquitoes! Buzzing swarms of big, hungry, ravaged mosquitoes. They can literally eat you alive! They are a part of the island's indelible charm. Wear loose fitting long sleeves, use repellent. The bites turn into quarter-size welts and sting and itch like crazy!
40
No thanks. If I walk by ragweed 20 feet away I break out in welts. I would probably have to be buried during my vacation!
1
I lived in a similar climate in Florida. If you go in March or April, there are fewer bugs, no hurricanes, and temperatures ranging from 60F-80F. I would never go during July-Sept. Still a slight risk of hurricanes in Oct. but later in that month will be lovely.
2
This article by Kim Stevenson describing the good food and possibilities of enjoyable times underscores why our fellow Americans should spend more time traveling to safe, scenic and wonderful places within in our great USA instead of vacationing overseas where terrorism seems to occur at regular intervals. Beauty and splendor abounds in the USA, make hay while the sun shines and explore USA, while we are kept safe.
10
Of course you are right, but America has always had no snob appeal, and since our decline in sanity has combined with a pervasive narcissism (really the same thing)—the loss of true self-awareness has created an almost fatal need in people to impress themselves, but especially others.
Long after my salad days as a 7 figure advertising wonk, I discovered the horseshoe on Orchard Beach, Bronx! Little tide pools, crystal clear, and a jetty that stretches out at the mouth of Long Island Sound. Really, it is not St. Jean Cap Ferrat, but it is a wonderful 1 hour escape, and far away from the main beach which is pretty gross.
Long after my salad days as a 7 figure advertising wonk, I discovered the horseshoe on Orchard Beach, Bronx! Little tide pools, crystal clear, and a jetty that stretches out at the mouth of Long Island Sound. Really, it is not St. Jean Cap Ferrat, but it is a wonderful 1 hour escape, and far away from the main beach which is pretty gross.
I think you are missing the point of the travel section..
7
Yes, there is real value to traveling around our beautiful country, but there is great value in seeing other parts of the world as well. Travel abroad has helped me appreciate how lucky we are in the US and has shown me the great struggles, incredible hard work, and immense generosity of people around the world.
5
Been there many times...although, I camp. Did stay at Greyfield once and had a wonderful time. Gogo is right....it can't hurt to let this Island remain undeveloped.
15
We have been fortunate to spend time with the caretakers mentioned in this article and it Ms. Severson captures their personalities and desires perfectly.
Readers should note that the author is a food correspondent, not a beat reporter. Her focus on the Chef Otawka's attempt to raise the culinary offerings of the Greyfield was spot on. For those griping at the inflated price per night, its all inclusive - transport (by boat), room and three meals, bikes, tours, etc, - for two. Guests truly feel a world away.
Readers should note that the author is a food correspondent, not a beat reporter. Her focus on the Chef Otawka's attempt to raise the culinary offerings of the Greyfield was spot on. For those griping at the inflated price per night, its all inclusive - transport (by boat), room and three meals, bikes, tours, etc, - for two. Guests truly feel a world away.
11
Thank you for pointing that out. People are jumping all over the $600/night rooms without looking at the big picture. The inn is beyond my pay grade, too, but I found the island to be a wonderful place to visit.
3
And only for the 1%.
3
Thanks for clarifying--I actually couldn't tell on their website whether the rates were for two people or not. I'm scouting potential locations for a 10th wedding anniversary next year, and this just shot up to the top of my list. With meals and activities included for two people the rates don't seem too bad (for a special occasion anyway).
1
We took a day trip to Cumberland Island about 10 years ago when we were staying on Jekyll Island. I still have dreams about it. The wild horses, the estate's ruins, the desolate beaches. It's magical.
14
My experiences have been a little different. No $635/night room. A campsite under a giant old oak, a crackling campfire, dinner cooked over a camp stove, the sound of rain on my tent, a short walk out to the beach in the morning to watch the sun rise. For nearly 45 years, Cumberland Island has been gradually becoming more like this. More wild, less developed. The plan to rezone "a small slice of the island" -- nearly 1,000 acres -- could dramatically change that, potentially making it possible for the number of homes on the island to triple. A story about my last trip there: http://jacksonville.com/metro/2017-02-11/mark-woods-development-plan-wou...
30
So much more to the story. Turns out this deal between the Nixon administration and the Carnegie/Coke crowd allows the rich to cash in by developing this place:
http://savannahnow.com/news/2017-04-09/rezoning-proposed-1000-acres-cumb...
Why, on earth, didn't NYT bring this up? Seems a pretty salient fact, but then again, that might have gotten in the way of a pre-determined script.
http://savannahnow.com/news/2017-04-09/rezoning-proposed-1000-acres-cumb...
Why, on earth, didn't NYT bring this up? Seems a pretty salient fact, but then again, that might have gotten in the way of a pre-determined script.
59
In the letters to the editor section of this article is a letter from Nancy Copp (Carnegie descendant & Cumberland Island steward) that is worth reading.
2
That does not suit the "richie rich" paradigm of the NYT.
Obviously the Carnegie family did this to preserve the area FOR THEMSELVES, and dump the costs on taxpayers.
Obviously the Carnegie family did this to preserve the area FOR THEMSELVES, and dump the costs on taxpayers.
2
There is nothing like Cumberland Island on any seashore in the world. The barrier islands of the southern US are critical to the global ecosystem. The private landowners should be compensated by the State or the US and the land preserved. There are many sources for those interested in a solution other than the island's ruin. https://www.redbulletin.com/us/us/lifestyle/americas-greatest-nature-res...
4
As someone who has camped at Cumberland many times over the years, I see the island more from the perspective of the average person and not the well to do. The island is visited by far more people like me than the rich and famous. Still, it enchants us all. Many fine people have fought for decades to keep it away from greedy developers who would turn it into just another resort. That fight continues to this day. With climate change and rising ocean levels, why would anyone want to invest in a house on a barrier island? Greed, plain and simple.
89
Sgreed. For our two-night honeymoon 38 years ago, we stayed one night at the Riverview Hotel in St. Mary's and one night in a large suite at the Greyfield. The Inn and the Island made an indelibly positive impression. We returned for our 38th anniversary this year, but stayed one night at the riverview and took a day trip to Cumberland. although we have umpteen times more money than when we were graduate students 38 years ago, we were put off by the high prices at Greyfield (even factoring inflation, it was not as prohibitively expensive 38 yrs ago). And our day trip to the Island was just as magical and foreign (in the best sense) as it was way back then.
4
Ask those who keep putting up their McMansions all along the shorelines of Cape Cod and the Islands. People with money to burn perhaps?
4
Please don't write about Cumberland. There's no need for anymore folks to come rushing our way constructing faux mansions you only occupy for 3 weeks a year and then set rent prices so high that our own natives have to move away. Stay home.
127
Amen Sister!
29
The more attention you draw to Cumberland the more likely some damn developer is going to want to try to get some politician to open up the island to development. Go away.
83
From Amelia Island (FL), you can also enjoy Cumberland Island on a sunset cruise where you can view the wild horses and savor the pristine beauty from the river. While Cumber Island will forever be protected because of the cap on daily tourists, there are other ways to appreciate this little coastal jewel.
10
Lovely indeed, but likely to be underwater in ten years.
15
Nevada Bar, a National Park Ranger and fine mystery writer, set "Endangered Species" on Cumberland Island. A very good read.
10
Palindrome by Stuart Woods is set on Cumberland and is one of his best.
9
The barrier islands of Georgia benefit from a 'arc' in the Gulf Stream that takes the gulf stream miles off shore. (90 miles?)
Because the arc leaves the coastal water colder than off shore, hurricanes are not inclined to make landfall here and thus the maritime oak forests yield ancient oaks of truly historic proportion and majesty. The USS Constitution, famous for its 'iron sides' was built from oak found on neighboring St. Simons island farther north, just north of the more famous Jekyll island.
The mix of palms and ancient oaks, great fishing, history, light houses, pre colonial forts, people and habitations make these islands a uniquely American treasure.
Because the arc leaves the coastal water colder than off shore, hurricanes are not inclined to make landfall here and thus the maritime oak forests yield ancient oaks of truly historic proportion and majesty. The USS Constitution, famous for its 'iron sides' was built from oak found on neighboring St. Simons island farther north, just north of the more famous Jekyll island.
The mix of palms and ancient oaks, great fishing, history, light houses, pre colonial forts, people and habitations make these islands a uniquely American treasure.
34
Like looking at ads in The New Yorker.
6
I have no problem with Carnegie descendants living on Cumberland Island. They leave it alone in a pristine state for the rest of us to visit. They haven't built vulgar, gilded casinos on credit only to go bankrupt and leave others to mop up after them. A legacy of thousands of libraries, a gem-like concert hall, and stellar universities goes far. So does cherishing the land.
I have been to Cumberland Island. St Marys is charming, the ferry is fine. The island is low-key and never feels crowded. There are armadillos and red-crested woodpeckers everywhere, and the trees are glorious.
The words "private development" make me uneasy -- nor do I care whether it's for the ultra-rich or for the hoi polloi. Can we leave nothing natural and beautiful?
I have been to Cumberland Island. St Marys is charming, the ferry is fine. The island is low-key and never feels crowded. There are armadillos and red-crested woodpeckers everywhere, and the trees are glorious.
The words "private development" make me uneasy -- nor do I care whether it's for the ultra-rich or for the hoi polloi. Can we leave nothing natural and beautiful?
107
Atlantic City was not exactly "pristine wilderness" before Trump built casinos there. It was widely known as a total, rundown dump. The casinos never brought the prosperity promises, and now they too have fallen into decline.
But it is unfair to claim that it is all Trump's fault, or that he ruined a nature center or park.
But it is unfair to claim that it is all Trump's fault, or that he ruined a nature center or park.
1
Yes, Trump did not ruin Atlantic City. But he is ruining the US and the world.
2
Cumberland is such a cool island. I spent many nights camping on its shores while growing up in Atlanta. Those road trips were priceless. The peacefulness at isolation were a welcome respite from the buzz of civilization on nearby St Simons and Jekyl Islands. And the armadillos and wild horses just added to the charm.
5
Went to visit this Spring. Lovely place except a giant paper mill (one of many in the State) looms over the island as an ominous eyesore visible from just a few miles away. Kills the vibe and the air when the wind is blowing your way.
4
The paper mill you see from Cumberland's beach is not in Georgia.
It is one of two on Amelia Island, Florida.
It's a regrettable sight, yes, but genuine indigenous working people are often grateful for the jobs and pleased not to have to immigrate to states like yours to find work, with all due respect.
It is one of two on Amelia Island, Florida.
It's a regrettable sight, yes, but genuine indigenous working people are often grateful for the jobs and pleased not to have to immigrate to states like yours to find work, with all due respect.
3
None on Cumberland Island itself. They loom on St. Simons and St. Mary's. Yes they are eyesores on an otherwise beautiful scape. I think they make paper for the NY Times and other Yankee town rags ;)
3
Yeah, we all use paper but smart folks don't put eyesore. smoke spewing, paper mills right on the beach next to their natural treasures like Cumberland Island. I guess if they're in Florida then Georgia got a raw deal you need better neighbors.
2
Little Saint Simons Island, Sapelo Island, two other Georgia Island Jewels. Jekyll is amazing in its own way, with most of the island in its natural state. As someone who grew up in Ocean City New Jersey, what a difference!!!!
5
My taxes are going for this?
Unconscionable.
How much did NYT pay to stay here? I hope that it was full freight. The whole story reads like an "it's all right, dear" from the privileged rich to the rest of us. Any deal made by the uber-wealthy with the Nixon administration is suspect from the get-go, but instead of telling us what we should know--is this an in-perpetuity deal that allows the privileged rich free access to a place that would otherwise revert to the wild, who, exactly, is allowed to live here for free, what sorts of monies are these folks paying for upkeep of infrastructure, etc.--the NYT fawns. And the parallel between current zillionaires buying land in Hawaii is just plain stupid, something that seems hatched straight from the Trump school of PR: Pay no attention to what we're doing, look at what Obama and Hillary did.
A balanced story would have included a view from these "rustic campsites" where "a small number of adventurous campers who receive permits" are allowed to pitch tents. How many is "a small number?" How do these campsites compare with the majestic oaks dripping with Spanish moss that the photos portray? How is the public kept from the 900 acres reserved for the rich? Razor wire? Armed guards? Velvet rope? Of the 300-per-day quota (my, that's generous), how many slots are actually taken? What does it cost the park service, i.e., taxpayers, to run this ferry service, and do the rich also use it?
Big fail, NYT.
Unconscionable.
How much did NYT pay to stay here? I hope that it was full freight. The whole story reads like an "it's all right, dear" from the privileged rich to the rest of us. Any deal made by the uber-wealthy with the Nixon administration is suspect from the get-go, but instead of telling us what we should know--is this an in-perpetuity deal that allows the privileged rich free access to a place that would otherwise revert to the wild, who, exactly, is allowed to live here for free, what sorts of monies are these folks paying for upkeep of infrastructure, etc.--the NYT fawns. And the parallel between current zillionaires buying land in Hawaii is just plain stupid, something that seems hatched straight from the Trump school of PR: Pay no attention to what we're doing, look at what Obama and Hillary did.
A balanced story would have included a view from these "rustic campsites" where "a small number of adventurous campers who receive permits" are allowed to pitch tents. How many is "a small number?" How do these campsites compare with the majestic oaks dripping with Spanish moss that the photos portray? How is the public kept from the 900 acres reserved for the rich? Razor wire? Armed guards? Velvet rope? Of the 300-per-day quota (my, that's generous), how many slots are actually taken? What does it cost the park service, i.e., taxpayers, to run this ferry service, and do the rich also use it?
Big fail, NYT.
14
The Greyfield Inn is on private property, not NPS land. Your taxes don't pay for it any more than they pay for hotels in Gatlinburg.
I've camped on Cumberland Island. The campground is in the midst of a stand of majestic oaks. The NPS ferry is not free - a round trip ticket for an adult is $28. I doubt much of your tax dollars pays for that either.
I've camped on Cumberland Island. The campground is in the midst of a stand of majestic oaks. The NPS ferry is not free - a round trip ticket for an adult is $28. I doubt much of your tax dollars pays for that either.
50
Some of you people just can't be happy.
Most of the island is a national park. National Parks are a good thing, don't you think? Do you really have a problem with your taxes going to maintain national parks?
As for your other questions, Google is a wonderful thing. The article is not intended to be a comprehensive review of everything on Cumberland I.
Myself? I'm glad that the island has been preserved and hope that it remains so.
Most of the island is a national park. National Parks are a good thing, don't you think? Do you really have a problem with your taxes going to maintain national parks?
As for your other questions, Google is a wonderful thing. The article is not intended to be a comprehensive review of everything on Cumberland I.
Myself? I'm glad that the island has been preserved and hope that it remains so.
Obviously, this is not your kind of place. And, really, why must every story be a "balanced story"?
3
In early April, my husband and I visited our daughter and son-in-law on Amelia Island and we were treated to a Beach Creek Boat Tour from Fernandina Beach to Cumberland Island. It was a beautiful morning, the sea breeze refreshing and our pilot/guide highly informative; he told us many interesting facts about the Island and yes, we did see some horses which were grazing in the dunes. He explained that since their main diet is salty sea grass, longevity is not optimal...
5
Ah. Don't you love articles about places that are inaccessible, unaffordable, and populated by a small group of people with wealth or connections you will never have. Yes, especially if you read it while being crammed into the middle seat of a poorly ventilated airline on the way to your own slice of paradise populated by smog, beach condoms and red tide. Good job, NYT.
15
Inaccessible? Take a ferry from St. Mary's
Unaffordable? Again, take a ferry and spend the day. Camp out if you'd like to stay.
Yes, there are houses on the island owned by Carnagie descendants. You will see much more ostentatious houses in any suburban development.
Unaffordable? Again, take a ferry and spend the day. Camp out if you'd like to stay.
Yes, there are houses on the island owned by Carnagie descendants. You will see much more ostentatious houses in any suburban development.
6
Anybody can go there. Make better life choices.
7
"Gogo offered to drive me to the small wooden First African Baptist Church, which was established in 1893 as part of a settlement designed so that the African-Americans who worked on the island could begin to own land." Do the descendants of these slaves own any portion of the island, in a similar agreement, as do the Carnegies? Now that would be the real story.
There's always something a little unsavory reading about the heirs and descendants of enormous wealth, still enjoying their private island, and lives of leisure and relaxation passed down for several generations. The writer of the article seems thoroughly impressed and entertained by the hospital Carnegie clan - as another commenter mentioned it almost seems like the Coca-cola archivist and this writer work together. The article only provides but the briefest description of past slave cabins and a black church dedicated to providing black families with land - ironic considering I'm pretty sure there are no blacks with land on that island.
36
Green eyed envy. No other reason to criticize the family that preserved this natural space for the rest of us. That they are wealthy and "live lives of leisure" takes not a penny from the pockets of you or the rest of us. They don't burn their money or wallow in money bins. Their lives of leisure provide well-paying jobs to thousands who build and maintain their mansions, limousines and yachts, and manufacture the parts that are required. Not to mention the caterers, cooks, cleaners, drivers, and other hordes of people required to provide that lifestyle. The spending of the wealthy on a luxurious lifestyle is a voluntary wealth transfer to he rest of us. Any excess of wealth not spent is invested in factories or loaned to buisinesses that provide tens of thousands of additional jobs. Envy because we don't get the lifestyle is not pretty.
2
Please don't talk about this place and ruin it with publicity.
2
Too late.
1
I couldn't camp for $700 a day, but thank the Carnegies, that it is a National Seashore. That the local readers who added the information about current battles and the value of this ecosystem.
2
Wasn't this place featured in a story on CBS Sunday Morning or Sixty Minutes? As I read, pictures from that piece flashed through my memory.
Ms. Severson,
Your articles just get better, and I learn more every time I read the Times! Your insistence on encompassing a wide breadth of knowledge of the history and varied cultures of the South in the subjects you explore are truly imaginative and interesting.
As someone raised in the south, I thank you for introducing Times readers to
more than the usual 'grits and gravy' of this part of the country.
Your articles just get better, and I learn more every time I read the Times! Your insistence on encompassing a wide breadth of knowledge of the history and varied cultures of the South in the subjects you explore are truly imaginative and interesting.
As someone raised in the south, I thank you for introducing Times readers to
more than the usual 'grits and gravy' of this part of the country.
8
As a Forest Service employee who formerly worked for the Park Service, I have always wanted to get to Cumberland Island. So I'm pretty disappointed in an article that I'd hoped would tell me about the ecosystem, terrain, the National Park, and accomodations for regular folks. This described a place that could be Nantucket or any delightfully quirky exclusive beach side inn. The history of the buildings are interesting, but to me depict the merest sliver of the experience I would hope to seek there.
53
Only the campground exists for "regular folks" plus bunkhouses for Park Service crews. I had the great privilege of spending two weeks there as an "eco tourist" rehabbing a cabin for the NPS. Unforgettable,
3
it says you could pitch a tent. I can't see myself also paying $600 plus for a night. that's like a 3 or 4 day stay in Cape Cod. Of course, there might be no comparison as the Cape could be a tourist trap. Caveat, I know where to hide.
Good luck, Ms. Jenny.
Good luck, Ms. Jenny.
That sort of eco information is usually never accompanying a NYT travel related article. Usually it's only all about where to buy micro brews, lattes and tapas.
There is so much cringe worthy reportage about beautiful places in the world that just harps on about the available spa treatments and wine bars at the resort the writer is staying at.
There is so much cringe worthy reportage about beautiful places in the world that just harps on about the available spa treatments and wine bars at the resort the writer is staying at.
7
To all those who believe there is no population problem I say: Call some place paradise, kiss it good bye.
39
You probably needn't worry about that happening to Kalispell.
And there is Dauphin Island in Alabama with stunning beaches, dunes and the freshest of seafood bought off the day boats. And it has a bridge, too.
4
Yes, it's gorgeous, stunning, and oh, those armadillos. But a housing development will soon be coming to the island because those pesky private landowners want to provide for posterity.
20
As soon as the new residents get there, you know next they'll move to close their areas to public access like Nantucket. Really a shame.
5
You are incorrect. If you researched and have been there like myself, you would see that you are making a false argument. The NPS, which received this land (via a private gift) is now trying to take the small amount of land left from the private owners. The private land owners are not trying to "develop" they mearly ask for the addition of 1 small cottage... they are not putting in a Sandals... research, go there, and speak with the land owners and you will see a very different story than what you have been told.
2
Please write more about "... about a plan to rezone a small slice of the island for private development." It is important that the public know what has gotten initial approval from Camden County officials winter '17. Somehow the development on the 900 acres has been deemed "a hardship". So little of the east coast is wild. It would be wonderful if the public can still have one barrier island that is for them.
96
Here's the latest on the rezoning of the 1,000 acres of private land within the park: http://savannahnow.com/news/2017-06-02/cumberland-island-wrestling-zonin...
4
It won't stay the way it is if it is publicized in the NYT.
51
That's exactly what I was thinking. Anyone who has been to Cumberland knows that it is paradise on earth.
NYT PLEASE DELETE THIS ARTICLE !!!
NYT PLEASE DELETE THIS ARTICLE !!!
It will, Robert, if the rule of only 300 visitors a day is maintained, and if "private development" is defeated.
(Thank goodness John F. Kennedy made the Cape Cod National Seashore. Men like Donald Trump would have turned that glorious stretch of dunes and beaches into Atlantic City -- which itself has gone derelict. I hope Cumberland Island doesn't follow and become like a lot of the South's coastline -- one hurricane-prone development after another, unattractive erections on stilts; or like other stretches of the Atlantic seaboard, T-shirt shop atop T-shirt shop, and the air smelling of frying grease.)
(Thank goodness John F. Kennedy made the Cape Cod National Seashore. Men like Donald Trump would have turned that glorious stretch of dunes and beaches into Atlantic City -- which itself has gone derelict. I hope Cumberland Island doesn't follow and become like a lot of the South's coastline -- one hurricane-prone development after another, unattractive erections on stilts; or like other stretches of the Atlantic seaboard, T-shirt shop atop T-shirt shop, and the air smelling of frying grease.)
6
The strip along the waterfront of St. Mary's is charming too. And another world away is the toned down and fabulous St. Mary's Seafood which has the best fried oysters I have ever had and I consider myself an expert on the subject.
Fun just to sit back, drink a beer and eat your hush puppies while getting a little local color.
Fun just to sit back, drink a beer and eat your hush puppies while getting a little local color.
8
Oh yes,yes, yes to the St .Mary's oysters! It's beautiful there too.
5
Article is like a paid ad for financial interests of: Cumberland Coca-Cola heirs; minister with Atlanta Cathedral of St. Philip in Atlanta; certain Camden County officials who make one wonder if they have been bought; and a small group of local people. Article ignores groundswell of protest underway by large local and national majority (backed up by petitions, etc) aimed at late June vote. Cumberland Island protection of "zealous new park ranger" because it is the largest National Seashore in America. Area's biodiversity second only to the Amazon basin's. Scientists know it as, "Nature's Nursery". Among its precious visitors are three species of endangered sea turtles who lay their eggs after a 35 year long, 10,000 mile journey around the world. No mention in article of their savior and Cumberland's most famous resident, Carol Ruckdeschel, Georgia's Jane Goodall, John Muir and Aldo Leopold (her bio by Will Harlan is Untamed, 2014). So, developers' plans to build 1000 houses on one of the few truly wild places left on earth is not the equivalent of ruining ". . .a small slice of the island." It is a fact that a majority of all sane people alive today does not want our shared source of life ruined. Neither do the sea turtles.
WRITE A COMMENT
WRITE A COMMENT
178
I appreciate your comment particularly in its passion for maintaining our wild places.
But as someone born in Brooklyn over 60 years ago, I can tell you that the poor can behave just as badly, destroy an environment just as surely, and have just as strong a sense of entitlement as the rich.
I hope no development happens on Cumberland. Not even for the middle class.
The ferry from St Marys is fine for us.
But as someone born in Brooklyn over 60 years ago, I can tell you that the poor can behave just as badly, destroy an environment just as surely, and have just as strong a sense of entitlement as the rich.
I hope no development happens on Cumberland. Not even for the middle class.
The ferry from St Marys is fine for us.
3
Hurray for the comment below regarding Carol Ruckdeschel!! It is a shame that this profile of Georgia's beautiful treasure does not mention Ruckdeschel's work; she was instrumental in the creation of the National Seashore and her research/conservation of endangered sea turtles on the island is recognized around the world for its integrity and scope (by the Smithsonian, no less). The article gives much attention to the rich and famous, and to the ubiquitous and non-native horse population. But little to the indigenous creatures. Nor to the African-American history there. Will Harlan's book, "Untamed, The Wildest Woman in America and the Fight for Cumberland Island." Also, Ruckdeschel's forthcoming book, "A Natural History of Cumberland Island, Georgia."
34
"More valuable than money", oh so true and oh so often not realized. The truly valuable things in life cannot be bought, the truly valuable things in life are given out of love.
Cumberland Island has endured because it was a gift and those that received it realized it's value and give it their undying love. The residing artist who uses nature's gifts to create objects of beauty and then uses any profit to sustain the home she loves seems to have figured out the secret to living a valuable life.
Cumberland Island has endured because it was a gift and those that received it realized it's value and give it their undying love. The residing artist who uses nature's gifts to create objects of beauty and then uses any profit to sustain the home she loves seems to have figured out the secret to living a valuable life.
19
Cumberland Island is indeed a treasure. Will Harlan's book "Untamed: The Wildest Woman in America and the Fight for Cumberland Island" tells the amazing story of Carol Ruckdeschel's struggle to preserve it, along with other natural resources in Georgia. Readers interested in learning more, and meeting another brilliant and uncompromising individual in Cumberland's history, will be well rewarded. I have no connection with the author, publisher, or Ms Ruckdeschel; it is simply not a book to miss.
53
I bet the slaves had a nice time there.
11
Go to Sapelo Island and meet the descendants. Visit the plantation ruins.
11
Yes, slavery is part of the island's history until it ended in the 1860s.
7
Ah, the lives of the rich!
10
Great story, thanks!
What about gnats, skeeters and no-seeums, though?
What about gnats, skeeters and no-seeums, though?
10
Wild horses on barrier islands in Virginia, North Carolina, and Georgia are popular with tourists, but they are nonetheless nonnative species that do real harm to the environment. The best thing would be to relocate them.
6
What about the Carnegies, from Scotland? Aren't they ,too, a nonnative species to the island?
All the US barrier island horses, who are descendants of the early explorers steeds, where there long before the Carnegies or the developers and tourists. Leave them alone.
Development to accommodate human beings and all that people bring with them to support their presence as either year round or seasonal residents will do far more damage.
The Carnegies afforded themselves the beauty of Cumberland on the profits of steel and coal, which have greatly contributed to real harm to the global environment. The sea level is rising along the Atlantic seashore. That's a fact. And yet there's a planned development on the island.
If any of the "nonnative species" should be relocated, it's the developers and those who enable them, back further inland. The Navy has a nuclear sub base across from Cumberland, on the mainland, which requires frequent dredging of the river to keep it deep enough for passage. And let's not forget to throw in the oil exploration offshore .
But the feral horses are such a threat to the environment that they should be relocated? Let the Carnegies die off and their properties become fully owned by the Nat'l Parks, let nature return to it's natural state, and have the ferry bring the tourists for day visits. And just leave the horses alone.
All the US barrier island horses, who are descendants of the early explorers steeds, where there long before the Carnegies or the developers and tourists. Leave them alone.
Development to accommodate human beings and all that people bring with them to support their presence as either year round or seasonal residents will do far more damage.
The Carnegies afforded themselves the beauty of Cumberland on the profits of steel and coal, which have greatly contributed to real harm to the global environment. The sea level is rising along the Atlantic seashore. That's a fact. And yet there's a planned development on the island.
If any of the "nonnative species" should be relocated, it's the developers and those who enable them, back further inland. The Navy has a nuclear sub base across from Cumberland, on the mainland, which requires frequent dredging of the river to keep it deep enough for passage. And let's not forget to throw in the oil exploration offshore .
But the feral horses are such a threat to the environment that they should be relocated? Let the Carnegies die off and their properties become fully owned by the Nat'l Parks, let nature return to it's natural state, and have the ferry bring the tourists for day visits. And just leave the horses alone.
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Keep this piece of heaven just as it is.
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Fishing poles? Really? Cane or hickory sticks with a cotton string tied to the end with a bobber and a hook? Or do you mean rods of graphite or fiberglass with line guides and reels holding monofilament?
In the fishing world, poles are primitive, rods are part of modern technology. The term pole is like calling good bourbon "likker."
Pre- air conditioning and pre-airplane the coastal islands from the Keys to Downeast Maine were the sites of choice to modulate climate for outdoor activities. Hunting, fishing, hiking, rowing and sailing became hallmarks of elite lifestyles after the Civil War as men returned to their desks but mourned the loss of competition, camaraderie, and connection to the outdoors.
Each of these activities were connected to modernity by the application of technology to the tools of the sport- fishing being among the most intensive as rods advanced from hickory to split bamboo and on to man made materials.
In the fishing world, poles are primitive, rods are part of modern technology. The term pole is like calling good bourbon "likker."
Pre- air conditioning and pre-airplane the coastal islands from the Keys to Downeast Maine were the sites of choice to modulate climate for outdoor activities. Hunting, fishing, hiking, rowing and sailing became hallmarks of elite lifestyles after the Civil War as men returned to their desks but mourned the loss of competition, camaraderie, and connection to the outdoors.
Each of these activities were connected to modernity by the application of technology to the tools of the sport- fishing being among the most intensive as rods advanced from hickory to split bamboo and on to man made materials.
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"course, if you are one of the Carnegies, you can land a small plane on the meadow that serves as an airstrip. But buzz it first to make sure no wild horses"
is this satire? no. it is the Times.
is this satire? no. it is the Times.
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I thought they lost the money? Back in the Philippines when you say you lose money - you move from the gated enclaves to a 2 bedroom apartment. But then again we are third world.
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@Suzette: that is true in the US as well. However, this is a story about privileged people, who hog all the really nice stuff for themselves.
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Chillin' with the Carnagie bros on a private island! They're so woke since they don't golf! At $635 a night, it sure is hard to get to.
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Yeah my hearts breaking for the Carnegie descendants at serious $$ to stay...another racket.
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Tell you what. Before you go all ballistic dumping on Cumberland I, make a visit. And you dont have to spend $600+ to visit. Just take the ferry from St. Mary's and spend the day. Or spend a night or two camping out. Then, let us know what you think.
My wife and I made a day trip last December, and the place is gorgeous. There really is nothing there except for a few dirt roads, miles of sandy beaches, and solitude. We were on bikes, just poked around, had lunch on a beach, found some horses, and had a wonderful day. We want to go back, and possibly camp out one night.
Give it a shot.
My wife and I made a day trip last December, and the place is gorgeous. There really is nothing there except for a few dirt roads, miles of sandy beaches, and solitude. We were on bikes, just poked around, had lunch on a beach, found some horses, and had a wonderful day. We want to go back, and possibly camp out one night.
Give it a shot.
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@Rogero. It is that "racket" as you so condescendingly describe that has permitted this island to remain in this nearly pristine state. Other wealthy families should be so generous. And, you know that public library that you grew up, that taught you things like how to scorn those who happen to be fortunate? Well, it was most likely built and endowed by the Carnegies. But never mind, in your little world money is intrinsically evil, isn't it?
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My first stay on Cumberland Island was as a teenager with a good friend and our two girlfriends. It was all so very rustic then . We concluded it would never again recoup it's original glories of the Carnegies.
We did all the exploring things and fished for our daily food. It was June and the heat was overwhelming. But we fell in love with the unseen magic of this mellow and beautiful place.
We did all the exploring things and fished for our daily food. It was June and the heat was overwhelming. But we fell in love with the unseen magic of this mellow and beautiful place.
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Its been a couple of years since we've been there but it is exactly as portrayed in the article. The Inn is a great, special, adult getaway, but, if you cant afford the Greyfield Inn, a visit to the island is a wonderful day trip for the cost of the ferry ride from St. Marys, GA. Ive made it a dozen times with kids and grandkids. Theres a lot of walking, but roads are shady and well marked. You must pack your own food and drinks but the island is pristine and you will find yourself on a beach that looks like it did 200 years ago with no condos and no crowds and
plenty of wildlife. You will have access to the same wild horses, beaches, mansion ruins and mosquitos as the Inn guests. The National Park service provides maps, interpretive centers, a museum, a bath house and for an additional charge van transportation across the island. The little town of St. Mary's which is the launch area for the ferry has plenty of inexpensive motels and great seafood. Ferries run 3 or 4 times each day but I recommend you make a reservation to be sure of a seat.
plenty of wildlife. You will have access to the same wild horses, beaches, mansion ruins and mosquitos as the Inn guests. The National Park service provides maps, interpretive centers, a museum, a bath house and for an additional charge van transportation across the island. The little town of St. Mary's which is the launch area for the ferry has plenty of inexpensive motels and great seafood. Ferries run 3 or 4 times each day but I recommend you make a reservation to be sure of a seat.
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Thank you for pointing out what this article glaringly failed to - how ordinary folk may access the island.
7
One of my favorite places!
3
Perfect story for the Saturday edition of the WSJ's Off Duty section.
I hope this place stays a secret.
2
Too late! Wait for the hipsters and developers to ruin it. Should be any day now.
2
The only other island on the eastern seaboard that rivals Cumberland, for remote, unique solitude and unspoiled beauty, is Roque, in Downeast Maine (private) and there's nothing else like Cumberland on the contiguous coasts of the United States. Greyfield is so completely laid-back, friendly, and perfectly professional that a long weekend will be one to remember in those back-of-the mind thoughts of return. The ocean beach is 17 miles long and except for the extreme southern end, near the camp sites, you will often have no one in sight, gazing north and south. The live oak maritime forest sprawls behind massive dunes -- a naturalist's heaven. I was fortunate to have spent many nights and days on Cumberland 25 years ago as a guest of Go-Go and Middy's cousin and I count those as some of the finest "loafing" days of my life. The most amazing thing about Cumberland is that is actually is allowed to exist today, and the Carnegie descendants should be congratulated as stewards of a time capsule. Check your city attitudes, intensites, worries, and cyber-addictions at the airport, please... bring a book, binoculars & camera... there's nothing to do!
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Crikey - what a place. I'd love to visit there.
2
Sounds like paradise !
2
What great stories! Thank you for such a charming article.
5
A story about Cumberland Island is incomplete if it doesn't include the fascinating story of Carol Ruckdeschel, a fierce naturalist advocate for Cumberland Island's sea turtles and for the general preservation of the island.
Check out Will Harlan's book, "Untamed, The Wildest Woman in America and the Fight for Cumberland Island."
Check out Will Harlan's book, "Untamed, The Wildest Woman in America and the Fight for Cumberland Island."
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