American Brandy Is Surging, Even in Whiskey Country

Apr 25, 2017 · 30 comments
Michael Fahey (Somerville MA)
"Julia Momose, a cocktail consultant." Puhleeze.
Jane Bowles (Middlehope, NY)
Not much different than a perfumer.
mike fitz (western wisconsin)
Here in Wisconsin, we know the secret to picking a fine brandy. What Is the case price?
skimish (new york city)
Too much emphasis on grapes. Lairds Apple Jack has been producing a good apple jack for years. Not as good as real Calvados, but the flavor is good and the savings are enormous.
Caitlin (Corvallis Oregon)
Vivacity Spirits in Corvallis, OR has just released their first Brandy. It is a single vineyard, pinot noir grown in the Willamette Valley, aged 2 years in pinot noir barrels.
So very very good!
I suggest you check it out, it will be available here soon. https://crafted-life.passionspirits.com/vivacity.html
exeuropean (San Francisco)
RMS Brandy was very very good. Better then Remy France
richard (alexandria, virginia)
any one notice a common thread ; lot of immigrants, no brandy without them...
Dale (Wiscosnin)
I'd let the products speak for themselves, but it seems a large part of Mr. Heron's promo is trying to convince people to at least try it. I'm all for someone being proud of their work, but not everyone is going to like the 'craft beer' approach to such traditionally elegant products. I'm thinking an asterisk or some such next to the name will alert those who are looking for a traditional taste that they should seek out a taste at their local bar before jumping in and buying a case.
Silly Goose (Houston)
When making brandy based Sidecars, I use good old Presidente.
Mick (LA)
When did Chip Tate start distilling again? We tried to visit his new distillery a month ago and it was just a construction site. Didn't look like they were anywhere close to making anything at that point
CJ (New York)
I think we should boycott products from Kentucky.
especially McConnell.
Robert Burr (Miami)
Brandy, at it's best, is a true and faithful representation of the very spirit of its source fruit. In South Florida, hundreds of exotic fruits from around the world are grown and many are made into wines. The potential of extracting, concentrating, preserving and delivering these exotic spirits is tremendous for those that know how to blend great cocktails, as well as sippers of fine spirits. The noble grape is king of brandy, but many other delicious fruits can be wined and distilled into marvelous spirits for the expanded enjoyment of their essence. The door is now open for exploring high quality expressions of many delicious fruits.
LD (Columbia, SC)
I agree with Ron: you can't talk about American bandy without mentioning Laird's Bonded and the long history of apple brandy alongside rye whiskey in the original colonies. On the other hand, while I welcome new market entrants, I'm not looking forward to the 50-100% price increases and diminution in quality we've endured with rye.
options (New Jersey)
I am also a fan of Laird's. The 8 year old is good but I really like the 12 year version. Laird taught George Washington how to make it. They to this day have US liquor Lic. #1. Now live in NJ so I guess I am partial. They have been making it here longer than anyone else.
Adriel Peterson (Los Angeles)
I'm looking forward to tasting the picks on this article. Besides the superb Germain-Robin selections, I'm not very familiar with American brandy.

As a 10 year Cognac drinker, I take issue with the "...in contrast to the muted elegance of Cognac" definition. Great Cognac (and Armagnac), especially those coming from the smaller distilleries, can be tremendously flavorful. And great French brandies can be difficult to locate here in LA.
SK (SF)
In my opinion Cognac/Armagnac/Calvados should be subtle and complex. They are delightful little sippers. But like wines made in the US, these brandies are brash (fruit forward, hot). I'll pass for now, but I have hope that the producers will mature and eventually start making a more complex product.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
I am surprised by your putting in the same basket Cognac/Armagnac/Calvados: cognac is double distilled. There used to be rare, lower-alcohol varieties of cognac (made, if I am not mistaken, by the family D'Or) that fill one with warmth and lift the spirit without scratching the throat.
SK (SF)
You're wrong. Armagnac & Calvados is double distilled, not Cognac.
Gert (New York)
@SK: Cognac is absolutely twice distilled. Here is a detailed description of the process: http://www.cognac.fr/cognac/_en/2_cognac/index.aspx?page=distillation
Ant'ney (<br/>)
Wow, no mention of Clear Creek? They have been doing this for 30 years....... http://www.clearcreekdistillery.com/
Paul Westbrook (Tulsa)
Outstanding, complicated brandy. Their grappa is outstanding also.
Shelley M Green (Woodway, WA)
I second Ant'ney re Clear Creek. Excellent product produced with finesse and sophistication.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
It is most refreshing and encouraging that the country of hamburger eaters with ketchup has started to produce brandy -- apparently well drinkable, according to the commentators below.
Tired of Hypocrisy (USA)
Tuvw Xyz - What's wrong with a country of hamburger eaters with ketchup?
Agnostique (Europe)
Watch out! Next they will be pairing the brandy with burgers.
David (NYC)
An interesting story. I will have to look into some of the Brandies mentioned.

It is interesting that you quote Mr. Heron when he conveys the sentiment, 'Is it hot'? I've tried Germain-Robin several times. I always found their XO to be a fairly 'hot' brandy in that the alcohol was not well integrated, and its heat was prominent on the roof of one's mouth. I will look for both, Copper & Kings and Osocalis for further 'research'!
Ron (New Jersey)
You forgot to mention Lairds brandy (maybe because it's made from apples?). But you did Calvados!
RickNYC (Brooklyn)
I love Laird's and I love how wholly appropriate it is that a New Jersey dweller pointed this out!
Josh Shuffman (Greenpoint)
I noticed that, too-- if I remember right Laird's is the oldest trademarked spirit in the u.s.(?) But the author also also refers to Christian Brothers' and E&J's "thick, super-sweet style," so you have to assume the research was lacking on some basic level for this piece.
TA (Minneapolis)
Copper & Kings brandies are great. Their absinthe overwhelmingly so.