My buddy J.T.& I started surfing the north shore Oahu full moon mid 70's nobody else out every for a couple years. Tubes, long walls & best times .Also surfed town, full moon in the summer, again back then nobody out. In fact when we were paddling in after a full moon go out we'd blow minds of the guy's paddling out thinking they were the 1st ones out!HA & STOKED
1
I've night surfed as an adult and due to the lack of visibility it's definitely more about ambience than quality of rides. And for all the implied bravado by the writer, we used to do it as kids at beach parties after the bonfires went out.
1
I love paddling out at daybreak, just enough light to see. Plus the crowds are sparse. Don't know if I could do the night thing though. Hat's off to these guys.
3
Putting the word "Shark" in the headline was shameless click bait. Little evidence given that there is any increased danger -day vs night- except that lifeguards are not available at night.
6
Those anklets to ward off sharks can be dangerous, they send out electric signals which have hurt surfers before. I worked with a shark researcher at University of Miami that came up with a better repellant, he sells it as "Repel Sharks." It works like a natural underwater stink bomb so if surfers see a shark nearby they release it and sharks will leave the area alone for hours after it's released.
6
If you can see it, the dice have been rolled. You're just waiting to see if your number comes up.
3
I'm neither a misanthrope nor extremely solipsistic, but many of the finest moments I've experienced in this life came while communing solo with the natural world. I've had the pleasure of hiking in pristine wilderness areas, diving on coral reefs and surfing quality waves, alone.
As a former diving instructor, I dutifully encouraged my students to follow the "buddy system." It is the smart thing to do.
Yet I violated it every chance I got, fully understanding the risks involved.
Stupid? Reckless?
Guilty, as charged.
Still, I have no regrets. I bailed on religion a long time ago, but I've never lost my childhood love of the intensely pleasurable experience of being a sentient being seemingly alone in this magnificent Eden.
And of all those solitary pleasures, the best, by far, has been paddling out alone before sunrise into a Pacific winter swell, with the cool offshore winds carrying the clean scent of the back country down the canyons and into the lineup.
It may not be "religious," but it's as close as I'm likely to get.
As a former diving instructor, I dutifully encouraged my students to follow the "buddy system." It is the smart thing to do.
Yet I violated it every chance I got, fully understanding the risks involved.
Stupid? Reckless?
Guilty, as charged.
Still, I have no regrets. I bailed on religion a long time ago, but I've never lost my childhood love of the intensely pleasurable experience of being a sentient being seemingly alone in this magnificent Eden.
And of all those solitary pleasures, the best, by far, has been paddling out alone before sunrise into a Pacific winter swell, with the cool offshore winds carrying the clean scent of the back country down the canyons and into the lineup.
It may not be "religious," but it's as close as I'm likely to get.
12
I'm with you brother. I have knowingly broken the buddy rule countless times, mainly while spearfishing in the Pacific.
I believe, at a certain level of experience, you can knowingly and intuitively gauge risk. My solo moments have been sublime. My only regret is not having someone there to confirm what I saw and experienced.... Life is not only stranger than fiction, it is more beautiful.
I believe, at a certain level of experience, you can knowingly and intuitively gauge risk. My solo moments have been sublime. My only regret is not having someone there to confirm what I saw and experienced.... Life is not only stranger than fiction, it is more beautiful.
1
Wonderful article, photography and the unending inspiration of the ocean's magnetic pull for so many of us.
Perfect antidote to world news today.
Perfect antidote to world news today.
16
Pure shark bait. No thank you.
2
Chouinard I think said "if it wasn't for climbing we'd all be surfers" ... But that glow stick LED surfboard thing sounds a little like shark bait to me.
3
I can totally get behind the Zen-ness of surfing and being one with the sea, the sky and the waves. I grew up in San Diego and once that cool salt air gets into your system, you can never get it out, nor do you want to.
9
Night spearfishing has more drama
2
I used to surf Malibu on full moon nights thirty years ago. No crowds. Kept me on my toes. Never worried about sharks. You never see the one that gets you.
15
We just spent a week in Southern California visiting the beautiful beaches from Oceanside to LaJolla! We also visited Cabrillo National Monument on Point Loma and enjoyed exploring the tide pools at low tide. The people that live in this area, like Mr. Igel, are some of the most active per capita, I have ever seen, They are busy surfing, scuba diving, running, biking, paddle boarding or playing team sports (beach volleyball, rugby, soccer, softball) in great numbers. Whar a wonderful part of the world! Great article!
17
I haven't night surfed in years but one evening back in the mid 70s I was surfing Malibu point with a couple of friends on a full moon. It was a sublime experience, but the best part was a baby octopus that climbed onto my board and perched on the tip of the nose for 15 minutes. We were both happy to have a new buddy.
41
I would like to praise Mr. Miralle's photography in this article. It is absolutely stunning! These photographs are awing in their use of color, landscape, mise en scene--simply phenomenal!
21
A few years back, a friend and I were surfing in Tamarindo, Costa Rica at dusk when a hellacious thunderstorm blew in. Full pyrotechnics, branch lightning, sonic booms, and pounding tropical rain. Utter chaos. By the time the squall blew through, all daylight was gone, and the current from the river mouth had swept us what must've been a quarter-mile out to sea. It was one of the few moments in my life when I actually feared for it.
I don't know if this qualified as night surfing, or bowel-loosened, up-mierda's-creek-without-a-paddle survival.
But this I will say: the few stars we could see between clouds sure were pretty, as was little Tamarindo twinkling in the distance. If it weren't for the exhausting paddle back, and the intrusive shark mind games ("dude, quit freaking—water's too warm for sharks! Keep paddling!"), it had a slightly magical quality to it.
But I, for one, would not elect to do it again, ever.
I don't know if this qualified as night surfing, or bowel-loosened, up-mierda's-creek-without-a-paddle survival.
But this I will say: the few stars we could see between clouds sure were pretty, as was little Tamarindo twinkling in the distance. If it weren't for the exhausting paddle back, and the intrusive shark mind games ("dude, quit freaking—water's too warm for sharks! Keep paddling!"), it had a slightly magical quality to it.
But I, for one, would not elect to do it again, ever.
11
I haven't been surfing at night, but, four decades ago, my friends and I often dove for spiny lobsters at night in American Samoa--small islands 2,500 miles south of Hawaii. Moonlight was not necessary. We used powerful, waterproof flashlights.
Because the lobsters appeared at the edge of the reef, we were often far from shore. The greatest danger was not from sharks, but from losing track of the shoreline, because, in a small, lightly-populated island, there are few lights. So, we would often look out into total blackness and not know WHERE we were--a mile offshore!
So, we always had to be mindful of which way the currents flowed, but we quickly learned that water can run in both directions. One night, a current was taking my wife--not a strong swimmer--out to the deep ocean. She managed to grab the shorts of fellow-diver Ed, almost stripping him naked, but he held on to her! My wife and I have celebrated 45 years of marriage and Ed (De Soto, MO) and I are still close friends.
Because the lobsters appeared at the edge of the reef, we were often far from shore. The greatest danger was not from sharks, but from losing track of the shoreline, because, in a small, lightly-populated island, there are few lights. So, we would often look out into total blackness and not know WHERE we were--a mile offshore!
So, we always had to be mindful of which way the currents flowed, but we quickly learned that water can run in both directions. One night, a current was taking my wife--not a strong swimmer--out to the deep ocean. She managed to grab the shorts of fellow-diver Ed, almost stripping him naked, but he held on to her! My wife and I have celebrated 45 years of marriage and Ed (De Soto, MO) and I are still close friends.
18
I have never surfed, but it was such a cool trend in the 60's (Beach Boys, et. al) that I wrote "surfing" as one of my hobbies in our 3rd grader yearbook. Afraid of everything - dogs, illness, death, abandonment, Norman Bates - the list is endless, the ocean was my friend. Vacationing in Fla. every summer as a child, I developed loved being tumbled around by huge waves, as if in an industrial strength washing machine. The taste of salt, absence of sound underwater, rocked by waves on rafts far beyond the breakers, even undertows were acceptable, as long as one doesn't resist. The ocean at night is the most mysterious, compelling and luring of all nature. Frilly breakers lapping the shore and the point beyond where horizon blends into water and into black eternity. My daughter and all who came of age since "Jaws," (one could argue among the more influential movies for the 20th century) is terrified of sharks. Sharks are a infinitesimal risk, compared with the Wild wine-dark Atlantic at night. Roll you ocean, roll! I still dream of surfing, even over 60 years old and I vow to try it, even at night. Take me anywhere "they're either out surfing or they got a party going," I ain't 'fraid of no sharks!
15
I'm a night and day surfer in Northwest Spain. Lots of magic moments. Still, surfing alone, night or day, is the highest high. Still stoked at 55. Thanks for the article.
11
One quibble: I disagree within the statement that Great Whites are rare in San Diego waters. Juveniles, at least, are not uncommon in the area. There is a GWS "nursery" of sorts (a pupping spot) just to the south in Baja, so there is bound to be GW shark traffic headed north (to the richer waters of the central and north coast), varying by season. Hammerheads are also seen in San Diego, occasionally, and Mako and Blue sharks much more often.
10
When I was a kid, we went fishing in San Diego Bay and caught a juvenile hammerhead. We let him go. The poor thing was probably more scared of us than we were of him. Point is, at least fifty years ago, there were hammerhead sharks in the San Diego Bay, too.
4
I agree, a significant number of GW juveniles in SoCal. Some. If Seven Gill sharks, and a good number of thresher and makos.
I never had an issue, nor do the vast majority of surfers, swimmmers, spearfishermem.
Lol, abalone is likely more dangerous than sharks, based on the number of guys who die trying to harvest them. Rogue waves taking out beach goers kill more people than sharks in CA.
I never had an issue, nor do the vast majority of surfers, swimmmers, spearfishermem.
Lol, abalone is likely more dangerous than sharks, based on the number of guys who die trying to harvest them. Rogue waves taking out beach goers kill more people than sharks in CA.
Considering the fact that I have been married to the surfer in this article for nearly 30 years, I'd like to point out that ALL of my husbands surfing accidents have taken place during the day. I'd also like to point out that surfers are a different bread of human beings. No one respects the ocean more than a surfer; many are members of their local Surfing Assoc and do great things for their local cities to preserve our state beaches. Like scuba diving, you must follow the buddy system. I'm really saddened by some of the comments here. Perhaps those of you who make callous remarks about being killed by a shark, and that somehow they deserve it are football fans. American football has a total disregard for the amount of brain injury that the vast majority of these athletes incur during their careers, but yet we tune in season after season! I guess there is that pesky issue of millions of dollars at stake! I love you Helmut...keep surfing, morning, noon, night!!
160
Thanks for posting! Nothing but respect for the both of you.
9
Love your comment.
The most dangerous part of my surf session is avoiding the Road Kooks when driving!
Hope you get out, in the light of day, to join him!
The most dangerous part of my surf session is avoiding the Road Kooks when driving!
Hope you get out, in the light of day, to join him!
8
So amazing!!!
1
"Okay. I get it. This is where you tell me that "locals rule", and that Yuppie insects like me shouldn't be surfing the break, right?" - Johnny Utah
6
Haha. It's not like neon colors attract sharks or anything. Neon pink & orange, those are the way to go... to the hospital.
4
I don't care how crowed it gets at day time.
6
these dudes are totally plugged into the music of the spheres.
10
I always wondered why places in the ocean where there are sharks are called 'shark infested waters', as if they were rats in your basement or lice in a bed. They're not. They're supposed to be there, although a surfer would probably rather not have them around while surfing.
In the late '50s, the fishermen killed most of the sea lions in SF bay, and the sharks ran out of food so they started hunting humans, or anything else in the water. Then they quit killing the sea lions, their population recovered, and the sharks haven't attacked a human in the SF bay in decades.
In the late '50s, the fishermen killed most of the sea lions in SF bay, and the sharks ran out of food so they started hunting humans, or anything else in the water. Then they quit killing the sea lions, their population recovered, and the sharks haven't attacked a human in the SF bay in decades.
10
Really enjoyed this. Thanks!
3
Maybe Sharky will be biting,
Making life a little more exciting!
Making life a little more exciting!
1
Not so different from surfing alone in fog. Peer hard into nothingness to try and see a coming wave while trying to evict the heartbeat soundtrack from Jaws that lounges in your psyche like an uninvited guest.
3
As a kid, I spent one month each summer with my family at Virginia Beach. As I became a teenager, and got a little independence, one of my favorite things to do was go back down to the beach at sunset, on my own, and swim and play in the surf and daydream as I watched the light change and enjoyed the how private and wild the beach felt at those hours, compared to the circus atmosphere earlier in the day. Didn't mind watching the handsome surfer boys, either. But I really enjoyed the strange feeling of being in the ocean once things got either pitch dark (no moon) or kinda dark (partial moon) or shimmering (full moon).
The movie "Jaws" didn't ruin this for me, directly -- the unrealistic aspect of the film made it easy for me to compartmentalize. But I made the mistake of reading the novel "Jaws" -- and that opening chapter's description of the menstruating teenager/young woman who is the first victim in the story -- was just overwhelmingly frightening. I have been in the ocean at dusk and in the dark since then, but with a lot less joy and a lot more anxiety!
The movie "Jaws" didn't ruin this for me, directly -- the unrealistic aspect of the film made it easy for me to compartmentalize. But I made the mistake of reading the novel "Jaws" -- and that opening chapter's description of the menstruating teenager/young woman who is the first victim in the story -- was just overwhelmingly frightening. I have been in the ocean at dusk and in the dark since then, but with a lot less joy and a lot more anxiety!
11
I like surfing at sunrise when everyone is still asleep. A clean break for breakfast is the most nutritious.
As a boater, safety is always first. Regardless of the sharks, night time surfing is extremely dangerous. Living for every day, not just the day is my goal.
As a boater, safety is always first. Regardless of the sharks, night time surfing is extremely dangerous. Living for every day, not just the day is my goal.
I remember surfing at the Beaurepaires International Surfing contest at Cronulla Beach in Sydney in 1982. This was the first time a surfing contest was held under floodlights. It was a total buzz but the biggest problem was trying to get into the right take off position as it was difficult to spot the sets approaching. If I recall correctly Occy won that one.
Needless to say, it was a total buzz just like the surfing culture of the 1980's. The older I get the better I was.......
Needless to say, it was a total buzz just like the surfing culture of the 1980's. The older I get the better I was.......
7
I lived at Makaha Beach on Oahu, way back in the day. There was occasional night surfing there, during surf contests mainly. Some carried torches out with them. It looked great from the beach, but I lived, swam, snorkeled and surfed there during the daytime, so I knew what lurked below and would never go in the water at night.
2
I love to watch the night surfers on summer walks when I visit home (New England). If you can get past the spookiness, there is something truly spectacular and humbling about being on the water at night.
Outstanding photography! Just stunning.
Outstanding photography! Just stunning.
9
This is amazing and thrilling. I would not choose to do this, but I applaud and respect those who choose to chase life this way.
18
As a rare non-surfer in Hawaii, I want to say that this article is deeply inspiring. Not to surf at night, but to pursue at night what I love during the day (running, walking, etc). A truly beautiful reminder of the magic of the moonlight. Thanks!
13
I used to go boggy boarding at night in San Diego, especially if there was a full moon. Often the waves would roll like wet glass, and it was the most awesome feeling, being alone out there, no crowds, no help if things went wrong. Once in a while, I'd see a surfer getting the ride of his life. I think the guys who went out at night were a special breed. After all, if you could see, why not? However, I could sense sharks in the water, so I stopped going. After all, I was the only one making thrashing sounds out there.
4
There are many comments about how risky night surfing is because of sharks. But even today, not that much is understood about shark feeding behavior. And we certainly have no scientific data to determine yet whether surfing at night entails greater, lesser or the same risk of shark attack. Too suggest otherwise is pure speculation. What we do know is that there have been tens of thousands of night surfing sessions around the world and clearly the risk is minute. So, though the idea of surfing at night might creep you out, it is wrong to suggest that doing it is foolish and unnecessarily risky. I night surfed of campus point in Santa Barbara in the 1970's. I am still enjoying the memories. The element of darkness and the reaction non-surfers have may both add to the intensity of feeling. I would suggest that it is a great way to experience this feeling without incurring actual significant risk.
6
I started surfing 7 years ago, and am utterly devoted to the sport. My favorite surfing moment occurred a few months ago, while surfing in Tamarindo at dusk. The sun had set, the moon was rising, and I was riding small, strong waves almost effortlessly. It was one of those moments that will stay with me forever. No photos, just the images in my head of the outline of the shore, the subtle difference between the rising wave and the night sky, and the feeling of gliding along the water, the elemental power of the ocean supporting me, moving me, and rejuvenating me. Great article.
14
Sounds much better and more romantic than it is in real life. In all but the most perfect glassy moonlit conditions, night surfing produces far more frustration than it does good rides.
1
Growing up surfing in the late 60s and 70s I surfed on Long Island, primarliy the Long Beach, Atlantic Beach and Rockaway breaks. We always surfed at night as the boardwalks provided some light to see the waves by. On full moon nights it was even more lit up and easy to see the waves. The problem was on full moon nights the crabs also came out and we were constantly jumping on our boards because after 30 seconds to a minute you would be attacked. Nowadays the crab population in those waters is sadly depleted. I have fond memories of those nights.
10
4:30 am isn't night surfing, that's a morning session in a sport well known for early risers trying to get the best conditions.
I used to surf Sloat (OB, SF) at night; we didn't use artificial lights but we did wait for the right conditions, ie. moonlight and a clean small to mid-sized swell. The goal was usually to surf through midnight to claim surfing two days in one session, just for giggles.
Every break carries different risk levels and those risks are constantly shifting with weather, breeding seasons, etc... Surfers who take on these sort of outings usually have a good handle on these risk. Most, I would say, don't care about lifeguards. Some don't like lifeguards and most of the planet and its surfbreaks is mercifully lifeguard free anyway. Sloat never bothered me at night, but night surfing Honoli'i (Hilo) and its river mouth did. Different risk, never mind the graveyard looming on the cliffs above. In SF, crossing Great Highway coming and going from the beach with late night street racing about may be a bigger risk. And the only actual injuries I can recall are picking up more broken glass in the feet walking home, an annoyance any time of day but worse in the dark-- thanks to the slobs and their glass bottles who also frequent the beach areas at night.
I used to surf Sloat (OB, SF) at night; we didn't use artificial lights but we did wait for the right conditions, ie. moonlight and a clean small to mid-sized swell. The goal was usually to surf through midnight to claim surfing two days in one session, just for giggles.
Every break carries different risk levels and those risks are constantly shifting with weather, breeding seasons, etc... Surfers who take on these sort of outings usually have a good handle on these risk. Most, I would say, don't care about lifeguards. Some don't like lifeguards and most of the planet and its surfbreaks is mercifully lifeguard free anyway. Sloat never bothered me at night, but night surfing Honoli'i (Hilo) and its river mouth did. Different risk, never mind the graveyard looming on the cliffs above. In SF, crossing Great Highway coming and going from the beach with late night street racing about may be a bigger risk. And the only actual injuries I can recall are picking up more broken glass in the feet walking home, an annoyance any time of day but worse in the dark-- thanks to the slobs and their glass bottles who also frequent the beach areas at night.
5
I second the idea of similar experiences skiing, I have many times skiied treeless bowls in the Rockies during heavy snowstorms, aka whiteout conditions, and the visual deprivation allows all these other sensations to rise up and be experienced, and you get the feelings of floating, rising and falling, and feeling the surface through your body instead of your eyes. When it's perfect, you feel almost like you are flying.
3
Did it once under a very bright full moon in Newport Beach, and I'll never forget the experience. The closest I've been to anything truly magical--cutting across a dark mystery of a wave you can't really see, but can only feel moving beneath you, propelling you forward....
8
With age comes wisdom, if you live that long. I grew up on a beach, so the ocean has never frightened me. But the last time I swam in the ocean at night (naked, surrounded by bioluminescent plankton...awesome) was when I was in my early twenties. I have encountered (generally harmless) reef sharks while snorkeling, and I know that my favorite snorkeling spots are occasionally visited by voracious, indiscriminate tiger sharks. So I do take risks. But I keep out of the water when it's murky after storms, and I stay away from river mouths. Surfing st night in Great White territory is nuts. Great Whites are a constant presence in my local breaks. I have seen the partially eaten carcasses of seals and sea lions that wash up on our shores. I have also seen the wounds on human shark-bite survivors. I keep those images in mind whenever I enter the ocean.
2
My experience night surfing has mostly been on the Outer Banks.
Under a full moon, once your eyes adjust, it is completely do-able and great fun on the right wave.
Once in early September during a hurricane swell, I surfed one of those steep inside spots that the OBX is famous for- at night with off-road roof lights from the 4x4 aimed right at the break. it was decidedly more spooky than a moonlight session, because everything outside of the spot lit area was pitch black; the sets would come and a big wall would jack up right in front- a quick decision- a late take-off, or a duck dive and/or a pounding. A little anxiety is part of the trip in punchy surf, but the water that night was super-warm with lots of sea life (drawn to the lights?)... bigger things chasing schools of smaller things, stuff moving around. The rush of good, hollow surf crossed up with mystery swirls and shapes, more menace in each shadow, until we were basically fighting freak-out to get a few more waves. Then my older and wiser (and similarly afflicted) surf pal yells over, "Enough! Going in." So in we went. Never been so vibed. Felt some creepy things, but no positive ID. How do you know what's out there? Well, they are out there. Warm water (the gulf stream) is bull shark water. Every pier has an impressive shark picture. Surfing is a beautiful thing, but it happens at the edge of a vast and underappreciated wilderness; night brings that closer.
Under a full moon, once your eyes adjust, it is completely do-able and great fun on the right wave.
Once in early September during a hurricane swell, I surfed one of those steep inside spots that the OBX is famous for- at night with off-road roof lights from the 4x4 aimed right at the break. it was decidedly more spooky than a moonlight session, because everything outside of the spot lit area was pitch black; the sets would come and a big wall would jack up right in front- a quick decision- a late take-off, or a duck dive and/or a pounding. A little anxiety is part of the trip in punchy surf, but the water that night was super-warm with lots of sea life (drawn to the lights?)... bigger things chasing schools of smaller things, stuff moving around. The rush of good, hollow surf crossed up with mystery swirls and shapes, more menace in each shadow, until we were basically fighting freak-out to get a few more waves. Then my older and wiser (and similarly afflicted) surf pal yells over, "Enough! Going in." So in we went. Never been so vibed. Felt some creepy things, but no positive ID. How do you know what's out there? Well, they are out there. Warm water (the gulf stream) is bull shark water. Every pier has an impressive shark picture. Surfing is a beautiful thing, but it happens at the edge of a vast and underappreciated wilderness; night brings that closer.
9
I saw Jaws in the movie theater when I was ten years old (what were my parents thinking?!), and am forever scarred by an irrational fear of sharks. Thus, night swimming in the Pacific has never high on my list of things to do. I admire their guts, but these dudes are crazy!
1
Commenters scolding surfing critics by touting rarity of shark attacks are just as predictable as the surfing critics.
Of course, they fail to acknowledging the role of shark nets, drum lines, and cullings in preventing those attacks. Justify it however you want: mindless worker bees in their rows of identical cubicles have no right judging people who are "making the most out of life" (whatever that means); people have grown soft because they're too risk averse; who cares about shark attack prevention because commercial fishing; etc.
The reality is surfing poses a significantly greater threat to sharks and other marine life (including whales, sea turtles, dolphins, dugongs, manatees, etc.) than sharks do to surfers, and the affected shark species and bycatch are almost all endangered. Anything that contributes to an increase in shark attack prevention strategies—that is, higher likelihood of shark attacks by more even more surfing and surfing at more dangerous times—increases the negative impact on marine life populations.
I'm not advocating one way or the other even though—I think it's a complicated issue—but I do think people need to consider all the facts before righteously preaching at each other.
Of course, they fail to acknowledging the role of shark nets, drum lines, and cullings in preventing those attacks. Justify it however you want: mindless worker bees in their rows of identical cubicles have no right judging people who are "making the most out of life" (whatever that means); people have grown soft because they're too risk averse; who cares about shark attack prevention because commercial fishing; etc.
The reality is surfing poses a significantly greater threat to sharks and other marine life (including whales, sea turtles, dolphins, dugongs, manatees, etc.) than sharks do to surfers, and the affected shark species and bycatch are almost all endangered. Anything that contributes to an increase in shark attack prevention strategies—that is, higher likelihood of shark attacks by more even more surfing and surfing at more dangerous times—increases the negative impact on marine life populations.
I'm not advocating one way or the other even though—I think it's a complicated issue—but I do think people need to consider all the facts before righteously preaching at each other.
1
Fantastic photos!! My husband surfed at dusk in Rincon,Puerto Rico years ago and that's where I learned the phrase "Loco en la cabeza" from the locals as they walked on the beach with their hand on their head mimicking sharks. This article reminded me of an awesome NYTimes article about Skishing...another daredevil sport!
3
Wow! stunning photographs with the article. Nicely done!
3
I was born in San Diego and I grew up in a small, beach town called Encinitas, and surfed my whole life. I could probably name all of the beaches from San Diego down to Peninsula South (just south of the Mexican border.) by age five. However, I have never gone surfing at night before, probably because it was never an option given to me; During the summers, from about June to October was when all of the "big" beaches closed at 8:00 because tourists and teenagers would come down to vandalize and climb on the cliffs. (Note: this wasn't a problem outside of the tourist season.) And the reason it was only the "big" beaches that had these strict rules was that the crowds and tourists would only go to beaches with tidal control and lifeguard towers. The small local beaches didn't have either of those luxuries which made it all the better. Being 11 at the time, and not allowed to go surfing without supervision, I probably wouldn't have been allowed anyway. But its great to see other surfers pioneering new ways to get more time on the waves.
12
Sweet article. There's something pretty exciting about doing pretty much ANYTHING in the dead of night when no one's around. Been out kayaking fishing loads of times in the dead of night but never surfed at night. If surfing at night is too much of a leap for the average Joe, I suggest going for a walk or bike ride in Central Park at 3 AM or so. That is sweet, too, but talk about sharks...
3
No small point : I am betting you are male? No woman would ever walk or bike in Central Park alone at 3AM. That's a privilege-- much like even hiking alone or beach walking -- reserved for men. (And as an older male friend tells me, also younger men or those who can defend themselves).
1
Many thanks, Donald Miralle, for these gorgeous photos. Particularly the silhouetted surfer under the moon. Absolutely stunning!
10
Desperate to escape crowds, I paddled put as the full moon rose, to encounter a group of 3 others. For surfing,the conditions have to be advantageous and takes a work and time to gain competence. Well with the effort. "only a surfer knows the feeling.
Incidentally, Jaws is not in Hawaii.
Incidentally, Jaws is not in Hawaii.
3
Jaws is not on the island of Hawaii but is in the State of Hawaii...at Pe'ahi, Maui.
1
Isn't Jaws off of Maui?
1
Ummm, where is it? Jaws is off Maui and Maui is part of the the state of Hawaii last I checked.
Reminds me of a very underrated film, I thought. Open Water. Not really about sharks; about an unsatisfying, doomed union -- that ends surrounded by sharks. So you can see why the marketers chose the direction they did.
But at one point one of the "lovers" (or not; and that was an especially good scene) says, as a fin goes by, "I don't know what's worse -- seeing them or not seeing them."
To which the other replies, "Seeing them!"
Also, film has an ending I absolutely did not see coming; how often does that happen?
But at one point one of the "lovers" (or not; and that was an especially good scene) says, as a fin goes by, "I don't know what's worse -- seeing them or not seeing them."
To which the other replies, "Seeing them!"
Also, film has an ending I absolutely did not see coming; how often does that happen?
4
Stepping into Liquid is my all time fav surfer doc.
3
Beautiful photos. Thank you.
11
Sharks are active at dawn and dusk and often throughout the night. I agree that surfing is for the brave, confident and athletic. They understand the risks and they love the ocean. I am though shocked by the people who say that if they are eaten or attacked that they " deserve it." Why is it deserved? The sport does not harm the ocean or the wildlife in it. This world is increasingly hard for the beautiful wildlife on land and in the seas. This is a sport which co-exists well. I can't think of a situation in which a surfer has killed a fish. Why should anyone cheer if a fish kills a surfer ? Humans can be the meanest animal-taking active pleasure in another's misfortune.
16
one of the greatest summers of my life was 40 years ago in the 70's living at the Wedge in Newport Beach and going out nude body surfing almost every night..........
8
Donald Miralle's images are mesmerizing ... he helps us understand the beauty and the mystery of night surfing ... Kudos to him and those brave night surfers.
6
Kudos to Donald Miralle. I cannot imagine a more challenging situation to photograph.
Don Brown
Don Brown
12
Should have been a longer piece!
8
Sharks are a protected species in Australia and cannot be killed; that's crazy because more sharks go inland for human food when they are hungry. Maybe there needs to be a shark cull to make it safer for surfers and tourists. Commercial fishing might be catching all the sharks food, near the USA, so sharks come closer inland because they are hungry. At the end of the day you are in the sharks territory and if humans muck up the oceans eco system then more people are going to be killed by sharks.
1
I like the image of sharks venturing inland for food. I can imagine them lined up at In-n-Out Burger.
Just teasing you, CK. I know what you meant.
The GW sharks along the California coast are not there because they are deprived of food by commercial fishing. Their presence in the surf line is normal. I don't what white sharks prey on in Australia, but one of their main food sources here is marine mammals. They are major predators of seals and sea lions. They show up in great numbers during seal pupping season, but they are a constant presence in our waters.
Just teasing you, CK. I know what you meant.
The GW sharks along the California coast are not there because they are deprived of food by commercial fishing. Their presence in the surf line is normal. I don't what white sharks prey on in Australia, but one of their main food sources here is marine mammals. They are major predators of seals and sea lions. They show up in great numbers during seal pupping season, but they are a constant presence in our waters.
The sharks have to compete with the salties for the humans they find.
1
As a former surfer, that's a great white way to die.
10
Have buddies who night surf in Santa Barbara all the time. East coast as well. Just get a few Sharkbanz or the Shark Leash and at least calm the nerves. Actual protection too though. Better than nothing. As they say, reduce the risk.
Night surfed Jersey once back in the 1980's. My buddy and I headed out at dusk and stayed out for about three hours, into the night. It was firing off of one of those jetties that doesn't break well now, due to sand dredging. Anyway it was huge fun but the price we paid was that he forgot to tell his wife, and after she finished scouring the local hospitals for him she figured it out, and posted up in the parking lot, waiting for us to come in. Boy did he get it, and she stopped speaking to me for a while.
22
Lucky we live Hawai'i, brah. Most nights I can soak in my hot tub out on my lana'i and read a (paper) copy of the NYT by moonlight.
I love to surf as much as the next guy, but nevertheless, night surfing is a little too spooky for me. It's dinnertime for The Men In The Gray Suits, and I really don't want to be on the menu. Dawn patrol and the dusk glass-off are as spooky as I get.
I love to surf as much as the next guy, but nevertheless, night surfing is a little too spooky for me. It's dinnertime for The Men In The Gray Suits, and I really don't want to be on the menu. Dawn patrol and the dusk glass-off are as spooky as I get.
42
Surfer goes into the ocean at night? Sharks hunt in the ocean at night? Farewell and adieu to you dear Spanish ladies...
13
Quint from JAWS !!Yes I remember that as a kid yeah wouldn't like to end up like that poor girl in the opening scene either.
4
Took me a very long 25 years to get back in the water after seeing that flick as a kid. Going to the beach in water way over my head and body surfing......loved every minute. That was until that dastardly movie came out.
At 4am, every spot is a secret spot.
7
OMG these guys are nuts!
I wish I were one of them.
I wish I were one of them.
40
I grew up in Imperial Beach, a beach town just south of San Diego. Some of my fondest memories are of night surfing. We'd jump off the old pier (which was destroyed in a storm in 82) and surf. Under a full moon its magical. I never saw a shark at night but occasionally we'd see them during the day. Oh to be a teenager with a surfboard in I B again! Good times.
21
Beautiful Rad Wow. Thanks for the dreamy article! Funny how the comments on these sorts of things always group towards - minimizing: Statistically not that dangerous! OR chiding: Foolish to swim with nocturnal hunting sharks and poor visibility! Obvi it's a little bit not too safe- but I still fall with the - "Not a bad way to die" camp!!
7
Great article, makes me want to get out there now, well maybe later tonight!
3
Let's remember a simple fact about this planet, we are sharing it with millions of other species and on a philosophical view, we do not have more rights than them. The Ocean is the environment of many species including Sharks and as we expect others to respect our boundaries around our homes, it would be great for us humans to have the humility of respecting theirs.
No sharks should be hunted because they killed humans in the Ocean no matter the reasons and anyone taking their chances in the water shouldn't expect sympathy from me if something happens to them.
Too many sharks are killed every year to satisfy our needs .
No sharks should be hunted because they killed humans in the Ocean no matter the reasons and anyone taking their chances in the water shouldn't expect sympathy from me if something happens to them.
Too many sharks are killed every year to satisfy our needs .
14
Have 3 night skydives but can't imagine surfing at night. Must be a real rush.
4
Now you did it. Every hungry creature now knows where the best eatery is along the shore.
4
Only the ones that read the Times. :)
1
Although I don't surf, this does inspire me to take my paddle board out on a moonlit night on Galveston Bay or maybe a bayou. It seems magical.
5
Great article that brought back memories. 5-7ft. faces at a popular central California point break, glassy and wrapping perfectly. 8-9pm or so and glassy. I'm the only guy out carving obsidian walls. That was 1979. Alas, now only in my dreams.
14
We used to do this off the beaches of Waikiki back in the '80s. No glow sticks. No LEDs. Just moonlight and the glow from the hotel lights. It was the only time we could surf Queens without a crowd. Catching a wave and riding into the sparkle of moonlight glinting off the face was nothing short of surreal and magical.
42
when life isnt difficult enough ...
7
...really fabulous people, similar to other fabulous people who climb Mount Everest, spend lavishly, sometimes die, lose their limbs, leave trash and wreckage behind. but their egos intact...
3
The ignorance reflected by this comment is profound. There is no "similarity" between surfing, at night or otherwise, and the "fabulous people who climb Mount Everest". If the writer possessed any meaningful knowledge about the sport of surfing, he would be embarrassed to make such a facile comparison.
I started surfing in Santa Cruz in 1963. While I had to give up this magnificent sport due to a physical impairment, I still follow it in my mind and heart. In my experience no participant in any sport shows a greater respect for and appreciation of Nature and its many splendors than a surfer.
The risks to surfing are variable. For most surfing, the risks are minimal, and depend on conditions such as swell size; status of the tide; coral, rocky or sand bottom; and level of crowdedness.
The last of the above risk factors can result in injuries both unintended and deliberate (especially when the victim is not a "local"). Night surfing actually lessens the risk of injury from crowded surfing. Its growing popularity attests not only to its transcendent, "magical" qualities, but also to the fact that night surfers have determined that whatever the risks of night surfing are, they are outweighed by its undeniable benefits.
There is nothing whatsoever egotistic about surfing, at night or otherwise. In fact, if anything it requires a surrendering of one's ego to the forces and beauty of Nature. The risk of a shark attack is sufficiently remote that it deters only the cowardly.
I started surfing in Santa Cruz in 1963. While I had to give up this magnificent sport due to a physical impairment, I still follow it in my mind and heart. In my experience no participant in any sport shows a greater respect for and appreciation of Nature and its many splendors than a surfer.
The risks to surfing are variable. For most surfing, the risks are minimal, and depend on conditions such as swell size; status of the tide; coral, rocky or sand bottom; and level of crowdedness.
The last of the above risk factors can result in injuries both unintended and deliberate (especially when the victim is not a "local"). Night surfing actually lessens the risk of injury from crowded surfing. Its growing popularity attests not only to its transcendent, "magical" qualities, but also to the fact that night surfers have determined that whatever the risks of night surfing are, they are outweighed by its undeniable benefits.
There is nothing whatsoever egotistic about surfing, at night or otherwise. In fact, if anything it requires a surrendering of one's ego to the forces and beauty of Nature. The risk of a shark attack is sufficiently remote that it deters only the cowardly.
19
No statement is ever more compelling than one forged from that proud trifecta of gross ignorance, low-grade resentment, and inherently flawed logic. Well played.
And when they get eaten by sharks are we supposed to feel sorry for them?
4
SHARKS!!!! YIKES!!!! UNSAFE FOR CITIZENS!!!!!
The best part of the cautionary comments about the risk of being attacked by a shark at night is that it will keep people out of the water :-)
The best part of the cautionary comments about the risk of being attacked by a shark at night is that it will keep people out of the water :-)
4
Glow sticks, LED boards and sharks. MMM yeah, now that's what I sit around dreaming about.
6
100% these guys are surfing Cardiff
10
Cardiff... the one in Wales! Yes! Everyone go there!
phew.........
phew.........
2
Another factor not mentioned is to get away from the sun. Many of us who have had years in it are now so vulnerable to skin cancer that night is the only safe time. I sail only from dusk to dawn. Amazing how much starlight there is out on the water. The sky full of LEDs.
38
Is there anything more transcendental than catching a wave under the moonlight? I ask rhetorically because I only tried night surfing a couple times and quickly let fear of sharks drive me back to day surfing.
5
Yes, it seems to be easier for me to STAY out after dark than to paddle out after dark - something of a psychological adjustment factor. I have lots of fond memories of late-sunset and early moonrise sessions when the moon was full.
3
Beautiful photography. Thank you.
11
Beautiful. I don't surf and would be to cowardly to do it at night, even if I could. But this story urged me to close my eyes and imagine the peace, the stars, the sounds of the waves, the feel of the ocean.
53
Overpopulation on the coast. Night surfing to get out of the crowds, which only helps when to moon isn't full.
4
We used to waterski at night when we were younger. It was magic, totally flat water, no other boats and a beautiful moon overhead. We used glow sticks back then too so skiers could be spotted in the water after a fall. Great memories.
6
Dawn or dusk is the worst time to be in the water from a shark fear standpoint.
More power too them, but thanks to Spielberg I couldn't do it
More power too them, but thanks to Spielberg I couldn't do it
7
Indeed, it took me 25 years to get back into the ocean after seeing Jaws.
Thank you NYT for putting something smack at the top of your home page, that makes me want to remain on this planet. It must be a struggle to find light in darkness, but you've done it here, and I would personally appreciate more of that.
87
Reminds me of my younger years when I used to run along the rim of the Grand Canyon with a blindfold on. Exhilarating, and safe too, just as long as you gave yourself an inch or two of distance from the 1,500' drop.
11
I am sure that everyone that has ever surfed has a story because at sometime in our career we're in over our heads...
Growing up on Long Island in the Sixties, surfing was an extremely cool niche for a kid, complete with dress code, sun, surf and girls in their underwear (bikinis). So I joined in for 3 years. My own surfing ended not because of a shark, but another surfer. One day I was paddling out at Gilgo Beach when a surfer came down the wave that I was about to cross. He finally saw me and kicked off his board instead of cutting away. I remember the Australia flag stenciled across his board flying through the air. It hit me square in the face and dented my cheek bone. I saw stars, blacked out and then came to, belly on the sandy bottom. I surfaced and drifted into the shore, I wouldn't call it swimming. I staggered through the shore break. People came running. I looked down, my chest had turned red, the blood was pouring out of my face. I got a ride over to St. John's Hospital and got stitched up. After two days at home with a wicked concussion, I returned to school with an eye patch. When the stitches came out and the black eye receded, I had a curved & dangerous-looking scar on my cheek bone. Pretty cool souvenir for a boy. Pretty close call.
The following year my buddy Billy was surfing at Gilgo Beach and drowned in the outer break. I was supposed to be surfing with him but was home, grounded by my parents for bad behavior... Anecdotally? A dangerous sport...
Growing up on Long Island in the Sixties, surfing was an extremely cool niche for a kid, complete with dress code, sun, surf and girls in their underwear (bikinis). So I joined in for 3 years. My own surfing ended not because of a shark, but another surfer. One day I was paddling out at Gilgo Beach when a surfer came down the wave that I was about to cross. He finally saw me and kicked off his board instead of cutting away. I remember the Australia flag stenciled across his board flying through the air. It hit me square in the face and dented my cheek bone. I saw stars, blacked out and then came to, belly on the sandy bottom. I surfaced and drifted into the shore, I wouldn't call it swimming. I staggered through the shore break. People came running. I looked down, my chest had turned red, the blood was pouring out of my face. I got a ride over to St. John's Hospital and got stitched up. After two days at home with a wicked concussion, I returned to school with an eye patch. When the stitches came out and the black eye receded, I had a curved & dangerous-looking scar on my cheek bone. Pretty cool souvenir for a boy. Pretty close call.
The following year my buddy Billy was surfing at Gilgo Beach and drowned in the outer break. I was supposed to be surfing with him but was home, grounded by my parents for bad behavior... Anecdotally? A dangerous sport...
34
In 1957 I surfed Gilgo Beach. The surf seemed small compared to the West Coast. Then I hung my surf board in my college dormitory to remember West Coast surfing at Malibu, Overhead, and Santa Barbara.
2
This is spectacular. I've surfed a bit after the sun disappeared, only leaving the water because the biggest concern is who's hanging out in the parking lot to bug or mug you while you load your gear. Nothing better than bobbing in the waves lit by the afterglow of a sunset. I'm sure it's even better by moonlight.
10
Yes I don't think some men appreciate the freedom they have-- how many have never thought of bad stuff in parking lots after a surf? Everyone woman I know would be cautious. Good on you for even getting some of the fun
Night diving (scuba) also the best ... even more fun when there's a full moon and divers can switch their lights off.
8
I am more fearful of driving on America's highways then getting into a shark encounter.
27
if you are ever in a shark encounter you will change your mind in a hurry
it better be a hurry bc thats all youll have left
bon apetit
( not you )
4
HMM I believe Inattentive Drivers kill more people on a DAILY basis than Sharks Do ! Surfs Up
12
Yes, JoeGomez, but they don't have fins on their backs. Cutting through the water.
Reminds me of my younger years when I used to ski at night. There is nothing more wonderful than the sensation of earth's pure energy being pulled through the board or ski into your feet and then radiating throughout your body. Without sight you exist wholly, fearlessly, in that singular moment.
58
I had an experience like this backcountry skiing in Utah. We were staying in a yurt in the Bear River Range, about 6 of us. After dinner and ingesting a few inebriating substances, we geared up and did laps on a little slope above the hut under the light of the silvery full moon. Pure magic!
1
Sounds like a wonderful way to spend an evening.
Sharks? Blah. I used to do a lot of spearfishing in SoCal, and kept my ear to the ground regarding interactions between sharks and surfers, spearfishermen. 99.9 percent of interactions that were noticed by the human involved were the shark swimming by, taking a look, moving on. Attacks are rare, especially in California.
On the other hand, if California had Bull Sharks, that would be a different story.
Sharks? Blah. I used to do a lot of spearfishing in SoCal, and kept my ear to the ground regarding interactions between sharks and surfers, spearfishermen. 99.9 percent of interactions that were noticed by the human involved were the shark swimming by, taking a look, moving on. Attacks are rare, especially in California.
On the other hand, if California had Bull Sharks, that would be a different story.
4
It's the other 0.1% of shark "interactions" that you should worry about.
7
Brings new meaning to "STUPID is as STUPID does"
1
Curious as to why anyone would troll a lovely article like this.
21
Low Self Esteem
7
People invent so many reasons to stay home and do nothing. The odds of being killed in the morning commute far exceed those paddling or surfing after dark. Afraid of sharks? Then stay on the beach, staring at your smartphone. Others are more interesting in actually living life, not watching someone else's on FB. Who are we to tell them how they should act?
As TR said:
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."
He was right, you know.
As TR said:
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."
He was right, you know.
65
“All of humanity's problems stem from man's inability to sit quietly in a room alone.”
― Blaise Pascal, Pensées
― Blaise Pascal, Pensées
13
A valid observation. But there is something to be said for not taking on too much risk because others depend on your well being.
4
Well said! Living life through the safety of your phone may help you avoid being attacked by a shark or bloodied by a wave, but it still involves risk. Not the risk of dying, but the risk of never living.
2
While I certainly feel that we are (all) responsible for our own lives, and it would be unfair to judge another person based on how they either want to preserve or risk said life, it's the night surfers' methodology (not the motive) that I have a problem with (understanding). Justifying this activity with the argument that so far shark attacks have not been reported in the San Diego oceanic area just doesn't hold water with me (no pun intended). Therefore, blind trust or lack of caution is in an important missing variable in all instances where the cost (i.e. risk) outweighs the benefit. I can go on plugging holes into the "so far never happened" conceptual framework: ISIS hasn't been in my state, city, borough....so far; should I be less cautious and alert with the given unpredictability of terrorism? While there are other risky sports, hobbies, and activities such as sky diving, auto-erotic asphyxiation. and flying with United Airlines on a bump-day, the risk factors become exponentially greater when one chooses to sky dive at night with a glow stick into a pitch black sky over, say, Afghanistan or The Bronx just for the midnight rush...or, perhaps, perform erotic asphyxiation on a surfboard in a dark abandoned cave at midnight...forget about United Airlines. Life is precious, make every effort to conserve and prolong it, cherishing our short time on Planet Earth.
It is completely untrue that no shark attacks have been reported in San Diego.
4
These photos by Donald Miralle, taken in challenging conditions (duh, night!), are fantastic. Kudos.
6
Cool article
2
Overcrowding solution: wave permits. You would need to apply and pay to ride waves at good spots. Sorry but with the human population spinning out of control this is the only way.
3
Surfers, especially the younger bunch, would be cut off by a fee. Surfing is in part about struggling to learn the art of the board. It would be like charging a guitarist to practice chords.
4
I grew up in Southern California and took up surfing in 1959. After many years of enjoying the sport with one of my best friends, I have relocated to unsurfable locations such as Denver, Durango, Co, and Westport, Ct. But, once a surfer, always a surfer. While neither I nor my surf buddies ever contemplated surfing in the dark, dawn and sunset offered up some beautiful lighting to our waves.
Surfing styles and surfboards themselves have changed a lot over the years but the spirit of surfing lives on unchanged, undaunted, unrepentant. It is a special relationship with the ocean that non-surfers will not understand. The wave of the moment has traveled around the world with the ocean currents arriving at that surf spot in a perfect combination of the currents, storms at sea, the direction of the swell, the shape of the ocean bottom creating the shape of the wave.
Surfing at night sounds crazy to me, too. But I can empathize with those who do it.
Surfing styles and surfboards themselves have changed a lot over the years but the spirit of surfing lives on unchanged, undaunted, unrepentant. It is a special relationship with the ocean that non-surfers will not understand. The wave of the moment has traveled around the world with the ocean currents arriving at that surf spot in a perfect combination of the currents, storms at sea, the direction of the swell, the shape of the ocean bottom creating the shape of the wave.
Surfing at night sounds crazy to me, too. But I can empathize with those who do it.
12
So maybe the sharks that chomp surfboards during the daytime are sick of the nighttime crowds of rookie sharks that obviously aren't local.
3
I get it. Went on a full moon 'yak paddle once. It was sublime. And the startled stingray that lifted the boat almost clear out of the water was scary-delicious icing on the cake.
6
As I sit in my cubicle, facing another day of report writing and dealing with the complaints of a public that grows increasingly restive, in a city choking on its own growth, I have to think that there are worse ways to go than by being eaten by a shark off the California coast.
126
Get back to work!
4
The sharks are always out there...night and day. The most dangerous thing in LA and the OC is traffic. I'd rather take my chances with the sharks.
4
The worst are the sharks that tailgate.
2
beautiful photos
3
Malibu on a moonlit night ,can't beat it>
2
How is this any different then scuba diving or snorkeling at night? Yes, there are increased risks but the world underwater at night can be vastly different than during the day. Many species that hide in the daylight are out once the sun goes down.
Good safety practices only make sense whether in the water in the day or at night. From what I am reading here the surfers who died or went missing were surfing solo which is just dumb.
Good safety practices only make sense whether in the water in the day or at night. From what I am reading here the surfers who died or went missing were surfing solo which is just dumb.
2
The worst danger is not a shark, but humans who do stupid things to each other. As a former night surfer, I say go for it---the peace and quiet is well worth it.
17
H.D. Thoreau: "A man sits as many risks as he runs." When you begin to breathe there's a daily risk you'll stop -- up until the very moment you do. It certainly is safer to lock yourself into a room and wear a tinfoil hat, but night surfers are on a wavelength where life is about living, not cowering. I've surfed year round in Southern New England, but only ever surfed into mid-twilight. I wish I'd thought to hang around for the full moon.
15
Shhhhh... Still idiotically crowded on a full moon at the best spots - sometimes 30 people out. In which case don't get caught inside because nobody can see your little led light amidst the highway light flickering on the water. My buddy and I have both run people over - with many more close calls. Between sets there is the acute sense of being on the wrong end of the marine food chain. Which leaves you a little jumpy when a 300 lb seal periodically pokes his head up to growl at you with some serious territorial aggression.
62
Interesting!! We are a part of nature and these adventurers are taking the challenges of nature. Imagine thousands of years ago when there was no one to protect an individual, humans must have ventured into the unknown out of curiosity and survived the ferocious nature. Is there a gene in these individuals that makes them fearless? Was it there in the ancient, daredevil human? Have the people who always want to be safe silenced that gene? I have always wondered why some people are so fearless and some not.
6
The 'fearlessness' is usually really just having studied the situation long enough to evaluate where the real danger lies, & where you can fit in with acceptable risk. Reading about this sport sort of glosses over the years & years of practice & familiarity that these people have built up, maybe staying out later on nice nights, etc & trying new moves incrementally, until they become reliable. As a former surfer here in Oregon, (some night waves, even with friends who were doing mushrooms!!), & fisherman (nighttime means you can't see breaking waves or crab pot buoys in your path..), I'm aware that what is 'safe' is just a matter of what you are used to doing, & (carefully) finding out what works or doesn't work by keeping your senses sharp & leaving room for bailout when pushing the envelope. Keep the learning curve flat, be cautious, & you will gradually be good at things that can amaze people who don't see the work that got you there.
30
I do not surf but I do scuba dive at night. Nothing finer than jumping into the water, pitch black, nobody else and hitting the reef. Turn on the light and its nothing but you, the fish, the coral and an occasional hammerhead. Really serene.
16
The best surfing for me was off Pt. Conception at the Hollister a Ranch. We would spend the night sleeping on the sand dunes radiating heat from the day's sun and spend the next day surfing in the late 1950's.
14
To all the commenters who think this is dumb because of sharks.... How often do you hear that a shark attack actually occurred? Um, almost never. I live near a county park where mountain lions have been sighted... Should I not hike there? Skiing, hang gliding, skydiving, track driving, bicycling and pretty much any recreation that includes any form of speed is inherently risky. Should all of those be shunned?
Embrace life. Live fully. Act with prudence. And have at it!
Embrace life. Live fully. Act with prudence. And have at it!
138
The real question to ask is: Has any night surfer disappeared? What if a pod of sharks attacked and devoured a lone surfer, leaving no evidence behind? Who'd know?
1
Matt R makes the usual risk comparison between a shark attack and the other activities, while missing the unstated obvious: being torn apart and eaten alive limb-by-limb by a voracious sea monster is experientially different from crashing a hang glider. I'd rather suffer one than the other.
1
It's a school of sharks, not a pod.
3
Enjoyed this, thanks. It's still rare to read about surfing in the press without wincing at awkward/inaccurate jargon. Nice to see an attempt to unpack some of the technical language too, particularly the description of duck diving which is a treat (something Bill Finnegan does this very well in his book).
Tried night surfing in Ireland many years ago, and vividly remember it now. Scary though.
Tried night surfing in Ireland many years ago, and vividly remember it now. Scary though.
5
As a member of the United States Lifesaving Association (USLA), don't mean to rain on the parade here but always swim, paddle and surf near a lifeguard!
6
Your timely advice sadly falls on deaf ears.
Lifeguards generally don't work the beaches at night.... surely as a member of USLA you knew this!
2
1) Thank you for your important public service. 2) We sea kayakers spend our time, by definition, where there are no lifeguards. We wear life jackets, take navigation courses, carry deck charts and compasses, signaling and communication devices, and paddle in small groups. It's a big world to explore- so much of it away from the noise of the crowded beaches.
6
50 years ago we'd night surf next to the amusement pier using its lights...
and several times I caught a wave illuminated by the night time Apollo rocket launches from Canaveral.
and several times I caught a wave illuminated by the night time Apollo rocket launches from Canaveral.
34
I'm from Jax Bch,and one spring day somewhere in Brevard I'm sitting on my board and the Shuttle roars over my head. It was like right on top of me, the ocean shook.
8
Apparently these surfers are tired of living...
2
So the sharks won't be getting glow sticks? That's unfair and discriminatory!
7
This is something I have done on Sandy Hook. We used the lights of the city in the distance to guide us. It is still one my most vivid memories catching a wave with the Twin Towers lit up on the horizon and the black of the ocean behind me.
74
For many of us..surfing in California in the early days was amazing...I learned at the Paddleboard Cove in Palos Verdes..and hung out in Redondo, Hermosa and Manhattan Beach. But, much has changed because of just too many people in the water making a pleasant day less..
That said, seeking waves around the world has been a quest for many. I lived in Spain for awhile and surfed southern Spain (near Costa de Luz/Tarifa) and Morocco. Even then, European surfers were many.
Now we have night surfing...and today..headed to Cuba for kite boarding...somewhat like surfing..but, longer in the "curl" with a similar experience. For all of those who surfed late 1960's thru 1980's..it was a fun era. My board is now placed over my fireplace..reminding me every time a see it of fun times in Costa Rica, Southern California, Spain, Morocco & France.
Toes on the nose..forever!
That said, seeking waves around the world has been a quest for many. I lived in Spain for awhile and surfed southern Spain (near Costa de Luz/Tarifa) and Morocco. Even then, European surfers were many.
Now we have night surfing...and today..headed to Cuba for kite boarding...somewhat like surfing..but, longer in the "curl" with a similar experience. For all of those who surfed late 1960's thru 1980's..it was a fun era. My board is now placed over my fireplace..reminding me every time a see it of fun times in Costa Rica, Southern California, Spain, Morocco & France.
Toes on the nose..forever!
25
So far no shark attacks have been reported at night surfing in San Diego County. The last shark attack there was @ 5-6 years ago and it was an open ocean swimmer. Statistically incorrectness leads to boring lives.
36
I lived in Encinitas for over twenty years, and surfed Beacons and Grandview regularly, especially in the wee hours of the morning and evenings as the crowds built up over the years. My favorite time was morning, before people started hitting the beach, during the week generally. Usually well before sun up, and some days there would be thick fog - it was just awesome.
47
Loved Beacons, nothing better than heading down that cliff to the beach for a 5 am glass session!
5
Having spent the first 20 yrs of my life in Encinitas, I fondly recall the times when it was not necessary to paddle out at night to get away from the crowds. Paddling out in the early am, staying out after dark, or the occasional night session was certainly amazing (funny I never felt more/less threatened by sharks). However the most dangerous times IMHO were not at night, but at huge days at more remote locations under full sun, where there were no lifeguards to begin with (i.e. Blacks). These days it's a zoo out there and I can understand the draw to find solitude. Can't imagine paddling out at night only to find it crowded!
3
When in my early adult years I use to take mdma and swim late at night off the shores of Belmar. Shark's are the least of your problems. Heck, minus the drugs you'd got random things like sheets of plastic floating about that you can easily get caught in. I've been warned about squids/octopuses etc capable of attacking in groups. Never had that problem. However once got bit a bunch of times by what I think may have been bluefish.
35
Lovely pictures.
11
Congratulations to a mainstream media outlet to not only having good photos of surfing (what surfers are used to seeing, not poorly ridden waves or lousy framing), but also for using the language correctly. This article must have been written and edited by someone who knows about surfing.
96
Sat here in northern England, 40 miles from the sea, it's hard not to be jealous.
32
Sharks too like to feed at night. Good luck with all of that.
11
In point of fact ALL marine creatures are more active at night. Sharks mostly feed at dawn and dusk.
6
Sharks...
10
They intentionally put themselves in a situation with multiple life threatening dangers and one or more of those dangers killed them. They chose their deaths and are proud of dying this way. Perhaps the tragedy is that they refuse to get the mental health help they need.
9
Life is not safe. Nobody gets out alive. The society we live in is now all about being 'safe'. Don't ever do anything that might endanger yourself. Past generations knew that life itself is inherently dangerous. Many people do little things everyday they don't even consider when thinking about danger. In every state now the pedestrian has the right of way when in a crosswalk. Not halfway between 2 sidewalks, not right beside the sidewalk. IN the sidewalk. Think of how many people just, without looking, walk out in front of cars, anywhere along a street. Ask them why & it's always, I HAVE THE RIGHT! Well, cars, trucks, buses, can't stop on a dime, even if only going 25 miles an hour. Most pedestrians who die are NOT in sidewalks, have NOT looked right or left, they just walk, usually staring at a smart phone. Past generations went to war. Men, lots of men, died. Women routinely died in childbirth. Most children died before their first birthdays. The biggest reason no one thought of contraception. Working on farms, in factories was very dangerous. Humans are conditioned to be in danger. Try to take that away & most get bored with life. Those people really alive, are like these, they have found a way to get the zing from life humans are conditioned to need. They mitigate the danger as much as they can, then enjoy the adrenaline rush. There are no lifeguards to risk their lives to rescue. It's only the participant & the night, with it's terrors. Dark scares humans. Always has.
14
People live their lives in different ways. Go live yours.
4
Creative writing has its place, but not here in the NYT comments section. The main factors that kill pedestrians are speed of the vehicle and alcohol in the driver. Like sharks, factors that pedestrians cannot control. War kills, so do handguns in homes. Handgun deaths are more likely to affect Americans than war. Childbirth can kill, less likely in the modern era, but infants died mainly of infectious diseases prior to the antibiotic era in the mid 20th century. Regulations have led to decreases in industrial deaths, but having a federal government who recognizes dangers of industry is the biggest factor in preventing these deaths. People are NOT "conditioned to be in danger" by any stretch of the imagination - intelligence and education leads to recognition of risks and ways to avoid those risks. Life should be about contributing to society in a meaningful way for an intelligent person. Engaging in activities that put an individual at risk for dying - just as base jumping, night surfing, sky diving, and helmetless motorcycle riding - are selfish and truly anti-life activities. Worse, they can put others, ie rescuers, at risk for morbidity and mortality. Is this part of natural selection? One could argue it - but only if the debater on the other side understands the concept. Choosing danger is not life, it is antilife. And it is not intelligent, it is dumb. And it is not a contribution to anything, it endangers others. Reality hurts, rip off the bandaid and learn.
2
Why paddle out under the stars? To get eaten by a great white shark, mainly. You guys may have edited a warning into the headline but this article is still advocating something extremely unsafe. Sharks are nocturnal feeders and come closer to the surface after sunset.
15
yet most shark attacks that are reported occurred during daylight ...isn't that correct?
And do these sharks enjoy being tossed about in the 10-20 ft waves and dumping surf that surfers frequent? Statistics, please: how many surfers each year suffer serious injury from sharks? Do we need all the fingers on both hands to count them, or just one hand?
3
Don't forget the giant octopus . . . or the aggressive sea hippo. Waking up each morning offers risks. Danger is everywhere and many of nature's most glorious offerings require a little risk to witness. As was wisely stated before, "embrace life, act with prudence and have at it". Well said.
5
To quote Asterix: "These romans are crazy!"
14