Adventure (Try a Goat’s Head?) Is Still on the Menu at Babbo

Apr 04, 2017 · 80 comments
David (NYC)
My wife and I ate at Babbo this Friday (10/21/2017). After that experience, I felt compelled to look up the NY Times most recent review. We dined during the first service - we had a 5:30 PM reservation. My observations: Our waiter was a mess. I requested a Manhattan, served "up". The waiter had no idea what that meant. So I had to explain it to him. What he brought me was a glass of warm Manhattan (a cocktail served "neat"). There is a difference between a "neat" and "up" cocktail. The noise level from the music playing over the bar was ridiculous. It was difficult to have a conversation with my wife! We asked, "who made the decision to turn the music up that load?" Their response was "Mr. Batali" The pasta are indeed delicious. In fact, the menu is a comparative value when one compares to similar establishments. But the very loud music and the very uneven waitstaff more than offset what should be a wonderful dining experience. My advice to Mr Batali - put your ego aside. No one likes the loud music but you. Let your diners enjoy their meals and talk to one another using their "indoor voices".
Amy (Boston)
I just miss Gina.
Recoil Rob (<br/>)
"And the friends with whom I shared the olive oil cake — a simple drum with a crisp top and a tender middle, splashed with a bright-green squiggle of peppery olive oil — still text me about once a day to ask if I remember how wonderful it was. I do."

Really? Still texting once a day? How can I take a reviewer seriously when he makes statements like this. If, in fact, they are still texting you they must be dolts and I don't wouldn't trust their recommendation.....
ManhattanWilliam (New York, NY)
As always when I read the reviews of the interminable restaurant critic of The Times, I feel that he uses his review of the various dishes as tools to present what clearly he and some of his admirers view as "witty" or "entertaining" summaries of restaurants, as opposed to simply hitting the nail squarely on the head and telling us in a practical but straightforward and honest way, how the food and the place is. Does every review have to end with a kaboom? "...then again I'm not sure I want another.....". I continue to read these reviews simply to learn what new dishes might be on a menu and to look at the pictures that accompany the article, but pay no heed whatsoever to the final judgment and number of stars awarded. Oh....time for a CHANGE at the food critic's desk after too many years, please!
The cat in the hat (USA)
Brittle crinkles.

Perfect. Just perfect.
Rob (Toronto)
I'm a food snob.

We ate at Babbo while visiting New York two years ago. We had a tasting menu. I wouldn't have ordered most of them a la carte because they looked so boring, but every bite was delicious. Pasta with mushrooms had no fireworks, but was perfection. In that way, the food was surprising and inspiring. The service was welcoming, attentive, and (but?) extremely efficient - we were never rushed exactly but we were clearly on their clock.

Babbo isn't a club for VIPs. It's a place that a lot of people want to visit for various reasons. The things folks don't like about it could be about ten times worse than they are and the restaurant would still make money.

I plan to go again.
hkguy (bronx)
Reading the complaints below about the noise level reminds of a classic line in a Times review from the '80s (!) about one of those barn-like restaurants popular at the time, America. The sound was like a World Series game, teams tied, bottom of the 9th, 2 outs, 3 balls, 2 strikes.
Ann Graham (Massachusetts)
What do people think is the difference between Danny Meyer's approach to restaurants and Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich?
Jason Bennett (Manhattan, NY, USA)
Danny Meyer likes people. He understands that a restaurant is a gathering place for convivial pleasure. It's often a special night out. He greatly appreciates that people have chosen his restaurants. He believes that feeding strangers is an honor and a joy. He wants the strangers to feel as if they part of his epic family. Meyer has class and style and a grand love for food.

On the other hand, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich care only about making money and, at Babbo, proving they can make money by making people feel miserable. I don't get the sense that they like people.

What's odd is that Bastianich's mother, Lidia, runs Felidia, a breathtakingly wonderful restaurant in Manhattan. She should put him over her knee and spank him for his mistakes.

Also, if you really want to know Batali and Bastianich's attitude, just read Bill Buford's "Heat," about working in one of the partners' restaurants. There's genuine hostility and macho silliness in the kitchen. Then read Joe Bastianich's autobiography and discover arrogance and hostility in the opening chapter, including the use of vulgarities as if he's some street punk.

Buford's book, which was a bestseller, is an eye-opener. Bastianich's book flopped.
HKP (NYC)
And speaking of books, and Danny Meyer, let's not forget his, "Setting the Table," which expresses beautifully his attitude, approach, and authenticity. I'll take Meyer over Batali any day.
Jason Bennett (Manhattan, NY, USA)
A few years ago, I ate at Babbo. Never again. I had to see what the fuss was about. Not much. Mr. Batali's first TV show, "Molto Mario" which was on the early incarnation of the once-good, but now dreadful, Food Network, was informative. However, he decided to sell Manhattanites obsessed with being trendy a bill of goods.

At Babbo, Batali highlighted things that were quirky, and he tried to make them essential in the United States. Lardo? Lardo, pure cured pig fat, is not sold raw in Italian restaurants. Not as an appetizer, not as an amuse bouche, or whatever the Italian equivalent is, and not as a side dish. It's sauted in olive oil for flavor.

Throughout Italy, even in the northern Alpine region, food is simple and simply prepared. Batali's Italian food, at least at Babbo, is more complex than it need be. He's presented himself in the U.S. as the master of Italian food, but the truth of the matter is that he's a sleight-of-hand cook, not a great chef. There's an attitude of "this is how it's done," but in reality, it's never done the way he does it. I've eaten in hundreds of trattorias, osterias, enotecas, and ristorantes in Italy, and chefs and cooks there would be appalled at the Batali approach to their food.

As for the insufferable, energy-sapping music he plays at Babbo, I won't fully criticize his taste in rock, but it's tragic. The decibel level is an assault on diners, proving that Batali and his partners care less about food than they do about publicity.
Kevin Simpson (<br/>)
This encapsulates my experience with Babbo exactly. When I finallly got the chance to try it, and take my husband on his first trip to NYC, we both left shaking our heads at the hostile environment, "so what" service, and discordant experiences.
MCS (New York)
I've stopped being the loyal (and very generous) customer at many of the top restaurants in New York. The most salient reason.... the owner's refusal to choose, loud music or me, creating a happy hour bar scene with screaming drunk people, or me, and the choice is consistently the former, not me. Fine, I wish them well. The reason why greatness fails in culture, art, music, food, is because the collective demands of people have sunk so low that it has wiped away the drive to be excellent. Dumb and unsophisticated is in. Inclusiveness now means accepting that drunk people in sweatpants who can't speak in civil tones, are the prized customer.

Something wonderful has come from what seemed like the end of the world. I discovered my passion for food was incomplete by being served. I now cook.
Donald (K)
I concur on the music comment - but here's the thing, Mario Batali simply doesn't care what we think. I ate there the year it opened, and it was exactly the same. I have eaten there several times since (though probably not in a couple years at this point, because the meal was kinda "meh"). Every time, the annoying, intrusive, and inappropriate music was exactly the same. One dinner, we mentioned it to the waiter, who said, Mario Batali doesn't care how many people complain. Well, that's my couple hundred bucks that I worked pretty hard for, and I literally have to save to eat in such places. So if that's his attitude toward what I think, he can count my patronage out.
Kevin (San Francisco CA)
I was mightily impressed with Batali, his restaurants, and his cooking shows about 12 or so years back. He introduced me to a lot of Italian cuisine that had been missing here in the States and I'll always be grateful for that. Now that I've traveled to Italy and there are so many more 'authentic' Italian eateries in the US, I've moved on. We ate at Lupo once and made the mistake of ordering the 'tasting menu'. That was indeed a misnomer. Although each dish was delicious, by the 3rd of 8 dishes we were beyond full. I'm sure many people appreciated the generosity of the menu but I don't think the concept of 'tasting' was quite understood.
Johannes de Silentio (Manhattan)
I gave up on Babbo years ago.

The food is only OK. Meat dishes were exactly the same; protein on a pile of starch. There was beef on polenta, poultry on farro, pig on beans, lamb on potatoes. Pasta courses were predictable as were salads and appetizers.

The wine list was over priced but impressive. It was heavy on Bastianich imports... that makes it easy to bump up margins.

The space is beautiful. It made it easier to overlook the only-slightly-above-average food.

The thing that ruined it was the music. And the attitude about the music. I'm dropping $600 on dinner for two and the sound system is blasting REM and Lynyrd Skynyrd. After I asked the maitre d for quarters for the pool table and a pitcher of Old Style he explained that the music selection was "Mario's personal iPod. Mario is friends with the guy from REM. Mario likes Lynyrd Skynyrd. You should too. Mario knows best."

I quit going to Lupa and Otto shortly thereafter, though for different reasons - mostly attitude and food quality. It seems like the best food at any Mario Batalli restaurant is the food Mario Batalli has the least interaction with. Cheese, fresh verdure, the sliced meats, the figs the olives... all great. The saltimbocca? Not so much.

The attitude at Otto - especially the bar - is enough to keep me out. I don't care how good or bad the pig fat lardo pizza is, being asked to give up a bar stool because someone else wants to eat is a deal breaker.

I don't even consider his new places.
Seneca (Rome)
Maybe it's time for Pete Wells to make a cameo and explain his awarding two stars to Mario Batali after the review he wrote. He sure didn't give the two stars to Babbo's.
Christopher Ewan (Williamsville, NY)
A pretty space with acceptable pastas ruined by boorish music. Just because the owner loves loud punk rock doesn't mean diners have to suffer as they try to eat their meal. I will never go their again.
dbroc (New Jersey)
As a restaurant Babbo used to be The Black Crowes, now it's the Chris Robinson Brotherhood.
Carl Ian Schwartz (Paterson, New Jersey)
I used to live down the block when the site had the Coach House, and I was taken there on a date 42 years ago. It was memorable. I don't think I want strange for bragging rights.
MB (W D.C.)
Should be less than 1 star based on service alone

Time for a new restaurant critic????
Queens Grl (NYC)
Last time a perused the menu and I saw broccoli rabe listed for $10 and a bowl of pasta for $20 I had to laugh at those buffoons standing on line to get hosed. I can make the same thing for a fraction of the price. Laughable at best.

P.T. Barnum comes to mind when I see people waiting on line for overpriced food.
hkguy (bronx)
I eat in a lot of Italian restaurants in NYC & in the hinterlands, and have never seen broccoli rabe listed for under $9, even in the most modest, out-of-the-way joint.
John Rieber (<br/>)
We ate there twice and had the same experience, deciding that no matter how great the food was, the service wasn't worth it. Coincidentally, his upscale "Babbo" in Chicago, located near his huge Eataly, closed. That said, his food is always terrific, and I still think his under-rated Casa Mono is the one to go to:
https://johnrieber.com/2012/07/24/mario-you-casa-mono-you-yes-batali-roc...
bill (Queens, NYC)
Do Batali and Joe still steal from their employees? They had to pay the waitstaff several million dollars some years ago.
Brandon (Des Moines)
A lot of criticism here about Pete's methodology on the two-star rating. I am speculating that the creativity and boldness of Babbo's food, coupled with the attendant execution difficulties, are what sets Babbo apart. If you will recall, Pete's one-star review of Augustine noted throughout that the dishes, while well-executed, were also pretty pedestrian.

These are restaurant reviews, and restaurants serve food, after all.
Nat (NYC)
Then it's a wonder why the meal itself isn't mentioned until halfway through the article.
PMT (New York)
Reading the comments below, I noticed how often "uninspired," "unimpressed,"
and my own, "too much for too little" ring true. After 3 separate occasions dining at Babbo,I tell anyone who asks to go somewhere else instead. "Go to Del Posto, go to your favorite neighborhood Italian, you will do better." Babbo just never delivered on the hype. Sadly. For all of its expensiveness, you wanted it to be better; for your dining guests, you needed it to be better. Again, after reviewing the comment, in my opinion, two stars is overly complimentary. Truth be told, after 3 strikes, Babbo is out. And the guests who I came with all felt the same way. Babbo let us all down, three different times.
Marianne (Georgia, USA)
The title of this review, "Adventure is still on the menu at Babbo," doesn't match the review. After reading the actual menu, goat's head is NOT there, so I guess the 1999 head was just a framing device for the review. Beyond the head's mention in the opening and closing of this review, I saw no evidence of adventure other than maybe the calisthenic workout while waiting for a table. Lamb tongue, squab livers, and rabbit are hardly adventurous anymore. Unless poor service is considered an adventure these days, I just don't see any daring excitement at Babbo per this review. Two stars?
kennethbykenneth (<br/>)
Two stars? Way over-rated. Is the reviewer a friend of Battali? I ate at Babbo several years ago, and was grossly disappointed, and paid about 300 for dinner for two. I will never return. I am a BIG FAN of Mario Battali as a writer of cookbooks, but after that dinner at Babbo, not as a restaurateur. The restaurant is far too noisy, jam-packed, and just not a worthwhile dining experience, taking into account the dodgy quality of the food (I cook a lot of Italian, and have travelled extensively in Italy for many years). As one of the other commenters says, Babbo is run like a franchise operation to pump out maximum money, not as a good restaurant. There's a big difference. I walked out feeling fleeced.
Maui Maggie (Haiku, HI.)
Every day I gleefully open the Times hoping to see Pete Wells skewer another sacred cow. Or, not. Either way, the reviews are always a joy to read.

I think "the wait" is less a Babbo phenomenon than one more generally adopted by management. I've spent more hours waiting for overbooked tables to empty at Esca and several other Batali-Bastianich outposts than at other NYC restaurants. Although the economics of missed reservations are obvious, persistent overbooking gives pause when considering a return-- regardless of how good the food is.
jack (new york)
You did not mention the volume of noise in the restaurant is unbearable. Forget about any conversation.
a href= (New York)
I didn't realize crude i-phone photography was the new standard at NYT.
Please hire a competent lens or leave the pictorial out entirely.
The revolting food shots and silly locations are no incentive to visit this restaurant, nor to read another Pete Wells review.
Best Regards,
JV
MCS (New York)
I agree. How low we have sunk. Depressing.
hkguy (bronx)
Couldn't disagree more. If you want to understand why restaurant reviewers are using the iPhones to take candid shots of the food, read the much-discussed recent epochal takedown of Cinq V in the Guardian, where the contrast between restaurant-approved photos and candids taken by the reviewer are put side by side.
Richard Frauenglass (New York)
While not "pricey" by many NY standards one expects a restaurant to live up to what it purports to be. Judging from the review, it does not. Pity.
NYHUGUENOT (Charlotte, NC)
We used to get capozelle (lambs head) from a bar on Irving Avenue off of Hart Street when I was a boy in 1950s Brooklyn.
There wasn't much to eat on them. I remember they were 50 cents each. I'll bet they're a lot more expensive now.
It and a number of Italian dishes I grew up with never appear on a restaurant menu.
Richard (NYC)
Best Italian restaurant in New York, and honestly it's always going to be Babbo no matter how much you hate the energetic service and loud music. There's a dozen other restaurants in midtown that will play it safe for people like Pete, but won't ever serve Italian food like Mario does.
Jack (NYC)
Odd isn't it that people pay such very high prices to be treated so poorly?
Tim G (NYC)
I never heard anyone brag about eating in an empty restaurant. In fact, even the most causal restaurant goer usually equates busy with good. Since 2002, I have literally dined at Babbo hundreds of times and never, repeat never, experienced bad food or service. I'm not a restaurant critic; I'm just a satisfied customer who spends his entertainment dollars carefully and wisely. My friends often ask why I repeatedly choose Babbo when there are so many other great NY restaurants. My answer is always the same: I went for the food and stayed because of the people. Chef Langello and his staff consistently make the Babbo classics, like the mussels and lamb chops Mr. Wells recommended, dance on my palate. Yet, as Mr. Wells keenly observed, a culinary adventure can always be had at Babbo. For example, I recently enjoyed grilled beef heart with pickled fiddle-ferns and pesto followed by charred beef tongue with black kale and cannelloni beans and a delicious lemon crostata reminiscent of Sorrento. Over the years, the wine staff and some of the smartest bartenders in the City have given me a world class seminar in Italian wine. John the maitre'd and the servers have treated me regally since my first visit and always make me feel more important than anyone could ever hope to be. Mr. Batali and Mr. Bastianich should be commended for the remarkable feat they accomplished and maintained at Babbo for almost twenty years, that is, making extraordinary Italian food and wine the norm.
JGib (New England)
I think it's perhaps easy to forget how groundbreaking Babbo really was in 1998. Gramercy Tavern was only four years old, Blue Hill still a twinkle in Dan Barber's eye. Eleven Madison Park also opened in 1998. "Great" restaurants were somehow still defined by precious formal dining experiences like Lutece, La Caravelle or La Cote Basque. (Not that there isn't a place for that.) Blue Hill, Gramercy Tavern, Babbo changed all that for me. Casual, elegant, sophisticated, seasonal, youthful. Yes, Danny Meyer will always win any service contest for me, but for sheer gutsiness - give me Babbo or give me death.
Robert (NYC)
Pete Wells got Babbo cold. Was browsing Opentable last night and was surprised to see slots at Babbo at 8:15, 8:30 and 8:45. Grabbed the 8:30 and arrived at 8:29 (we live around the corner). Was told "we're running a bit late". Parked ourselves nearby and listened to the tales of woe ("our babysitter leaves at 10", "I have to get up early", etc.) from those waiting around. At 8:50 was given the time honored "they're just paying the check" and offered a not terribly good Prosecco. A few minutes later, a table in the bar opened up and the maitre d' was relieved to get us off his conscience. Then Babbo became Babbo. The waiter was knowledgeable and gentle, even the busboy consistently honored our request for no ice in the tap water. And the food was extraordinary!! Beet tartare (with a hint of anchovy) and spaghetti with lobster for my wife. The brilliantly seasonal pappardelle with morels and thyme, perfectly cooked hanger steak on a bed of peas, asparagus tips and ramps for me. Truly thoughtful sophisticated food. I made a bad wine choice which perhaps a more attentive sommelier might have corrected, but that's my fault. Then again there was the noise which one comes to expect in NYC, but it still would be nice to have some quiet. Bottom line: four star food and service, no star welcome and ambiance averages out to two stars. Right on, Pete!!
Charles Michener (Palm Beach, FL)
It's been years since I dined at Babbo, but even when it first opened nearly 20 years ago there was a considerable disconnect between the generally delicious food and the raucous atmosphere. In addition to the painfully loud music, the acoustics meant that while you couldn't hear what the people at your table were saying you could hear every word of the loud guy in the far-off corner. This review makes me long for the kind of New York restaurant that went out of style with the closing of Babbo's predecessor at 110 Waverly Pl. -- the Coach House. James Beard's favorite restaurant did for American cooking what Batali has done for Italian cooking, but in a setting that was quiet, warmly welcoming and entirely comfortable.
Robert (NYC)
Every time I walk by Babbo, I think of the Coach House. Thanks for the memory, Charles.
van hoodoynck (nyc)
Come back for Toqueville. It's as you described you long for.
Mazz (Brooklyn,NY)
As the son of Italian immigrants, I was lucky enough to have lambs head regularly growing up. I also had fresh pasta made made in house for my entire life. The thought of going to this restaurant and paying outrageous prices for "Italian" food makes me chuckle.
R. A. (Nyc)
Recently had a serviceable dinner for two at Babbo. Did 3 courses and was relieved of $160 in an amazing 45 minutes. Food was solid. Service was solid. Experience was fast, fast, fast.
vaneps (NYC)
Have mint love letters somewhere else? It's not gonna happen. Beef cheek ravioli? Not like Babbo's.
Hey, the music is what it is and it's terrific. I listened to REVOLVER with my son after having a great meal, enjoying a grappa and thought " it doesn't get better than this". You know? It doesn't.
Scott Manni (Concord NC)
Babbo was an excellent restaurant. Then the chef left. Fame. That's why it's now a two star uneven experience.
Greg Howard (Portland)
I was a chef for eleven years, until I jumped from the sauteé pan into the fire. (I switched to IT) I've been reading restaurant reviews for over forty years, and I'm amused by the frequency of comments that review Pete's reviews.

You had a different experience at a reviewed restaurant than Pete did? By all means let us know, but how does that invalidate Pete's experience? Is Mr. Wells obligated to be a robot? Like all of us his days are marked by changing interests; should he be penalized because he feels different every day he sits down at a restaurant?

Like Roger Ebert was when reviewing movies, Pete is a slightly different version of himself every time he goes to work; his reviews reflect that.

My amusement stems from the fact that most people (myself definitely included) often hold others to standards we don't meet ourselves.
mbg14 (New Jersey)
i kind of get what you're saying, but surely after 40 years of reading restaurant reviews you're aware that they go the restaurant multiple times before writing the review? that is done solely to avoid what you are mentioning about "every day we are a new person with changing interests"
John Curtas (Eating Las Vegas)
Pete Wells nails the food and the service (as usual), but let's the ambience off the hook a bit too easily. Babbo is military jet-afterburner loud, and Batali's popularization of chefs blaring their dumb rock music is a sin I still have trouble forgiving him for (and I'm generally a big fan). Once Babbo became the "it" restaurant around 2000, every chef in America was given the tacit permission to foist their musical tastes on their customers. I may love the White Stripes, Jimi Hendrix and Van Halen, but that doesn't mean I want to pay for the privilege of listening to them while I'm enjoying my brasato al Barolo. Thankfully, out here in Vegas we have B&B Ristorante (a place I refer to as "Babbo Lite") and they've finally started (a few years ago) toning down the volume so you can hear yourself think. Chefs of America: No one is coming to your restaurant to hear your stupid music.
BeachBum (NY, NY)
No one could convince me that I wanted to eat goat head, lamb tongue or tripe parmigiana so every day for over a decade I walked past Babbo, never entering. In Dec 2015 I finally did. My primary takeaway after doing so? What just happened? Wonderfully varied menu to keep foodies and 'fraidies like me satisfied. Attentive, informative service at the start became frenzied, robotic service after the appetizer plates were cleared. Sign language skills would have been helpful because music selections and volume were insane. There were 3 of us and we each had one course that was memorable. That meant we each had two courses that weren't. Am I glad I ate there? Yes, it solved the mystery of what was behind the door. Would I eat there again? No, I found out the reality of what was behind the door.
Save (NYC)
Do they still pipe in the classic rock music? For some reason I distinctly recall bad company and journey serenading me and my biz clients on my last visit. Glad it still retained a pair of stars, it's a great w village option.
nw2 (New York)
Maybe I'm not in the majority here, but that rock soundtrack really put me off; even though I enjoyed the food, to this day the primary association I have with Babbo is how the choice of music spoiled the experience. How about no music?
Mark (Milwaukee)
Had lunch at Babbo last October on our annual trip to NYC. I looked forward to eating there for ages. This was supposed to be a special occasion for my wife and I. The food was uninspired, the server was indifferent at best, almost as if serving us was a distracted obligation. A very disappointing experience. Not to pile on but the night before we went to Casa Mono. We were sent around the corner to the Enoteca to wait for our table where we paid $32 for two skimpy glasses of wine by a cranky waiter. When we finally were seated 45 minutes later, we were informed that several items on the menu were sold out. Mr. Batali has morphed into Colonel Sanders -- the face of a franchise -- rather than the wonderful chef of years ago.
John Rieber (<br/>)
That's too bad, because we have had incredible experiences at Casa Mono - but we never went at normal times, preferring to get in early - so we didn't have your experience. We also ate at the bar across from he small kitchen to watch the preparation, so perhaps we got the attention a regular diner didn't...
Robbinsville (Robbinsville, New Jersey)
Thin-skinned Batali shouldn't even be associated with this restaurant that rests on its laurels anymore since he has virtually nothing to do with it. Overpriced, average food gets two stars? Ridiculous. There are plenty of better Italian restaurants in the city. Our meal was completely forgettable as was the service.
Jerome (<br/>)
Treated by my daughter to an anniversary dinner at Babbo in March 2016. I came away unimpressed with the food, but the service was ok. I also couldn't understand why after having a reservation, we had to wait almost 20 mins to be seated, subjected to the same contortions in the waiting area. As the others mentioned, no apology. The food seems to be missing it's soul, with the exception of the 'pig foot milanese' which was the best thing we had all night. Late last year at a dinner at the Four Seasons, at which Mario, was the chef, we met and I expressed my feelings about the food and he said I should have sent it back! But in contrast to the food at Babbo, his creations at the Four Seasons that evening were sublime. I can't ever forget the beef cheek agnolotti! I may give Babbo another shot but in my book Scarpella in the Meatpacking District is an incredible Italian restaurant and much better than Babbo.
Andy G. (FL)
We had a great meal at Babbo when it first opened. Second meal was a $400 dollar turn and burn for two. After also being left in Siberia at the end of the night at Cafe Boulud, we decided no more celebrity chefs.
Culture Land (Brooklyn)
Blew close to $700 with a group of 6 wine drinkers at Babbo a number of years ago. What a waste of money. Most of the food we ordered was pasta so the margins were huge for the restaurant. Very overrated and disappointing experience. Not sure what the hype is all about.
Smcdermott (New York)
Agree with this review. The music has always been so disruptive but "that's how they do it" is always what they say. Also, the panna cotta and olive oil cake were the brainchild of the late great original pastry chef Gina DePalma.
Hugh Geter (NY)
So I kept reading and reading and reading and reading and then...two (2) stars. What? I found absolutely no correlation to what I read and your stars. It was almost as though your copy editor's name was Lidia and she penciled in the second star where you originally only had one filled in.
MB (W D.C.)
And it takes 3 paragraphs to get to the review
Bob Shmorndorf (New York City)
While the review conveys my similar recent experience vs. older experiences, I think a sense of justified indignation is called for. You pay a lot and they act like you're just another wallet. I used to love this restaurant.
Carmela Sanford (Niagara Falls USA)
Last autumn, on one of our visits to Manhattan (4 a year in total, a week at a time), we ate at Babbo for the first time. It was also the last time. There was absolutely nothing special about the food. There was nothing on the Babbo menu that I couldn't make at home.

The truth of the matter is that two days ago, I made fettuccini with pancetta and asparagus. It was delicious. In fact, it looked exactly like the Babbo dish in the photo with one exception. Mine had more asparagus, including more tips. I looked at the menu. Babbo charges $24 for the dish. If I were there tonight, I would not order it.

I have also made immense bone-rib pork chops. Delicious.

The biggest problem I had with Babbo was the forgetful service and the ridiculously loud music.

Back in 1998, when Babbo opened, Mr. Batali was 38-years old. I'm sure he thought ear-crushing rock music was cool in a restaurant. It isn't. Not at 38, not at 48, and not at 58. I'm 53. I like rock music, but I do not need it blasting when I'm eating pasta.

It strikes me that Mr. Batali needed a gimmick when he first opened, thus the blaring music. Frankly, it's an insult to his guests, a sign that he's not really sure about the food he serves.

Another thing, the review I read was a one star review. Mr. Wells and his editors need to meet about how he rates his restaurants. This has happened before. People treated like cattle, average food, and pointless noise do not a make a two star restaurant.
btcarelli (New York City)
Pete Well's quest to give the entire NY dining scene 2 stars reached an epic new height today! I give this review 2 stars.
Geoman (NY)
Went to Babbo once with friends and none of us would ever go back. Rude, abrupt waiters and overly rich food, often presented cold as if it had been sitting around too long. With so many good restaurants in NYC, why suffer?
Not Pete Wells (New York)
Change is constant. Babbo is definitely not what used to be, and not even what this review generously describes. A dinner there less than one month ago was laughable. The pasta tasting menu had nice pasta but overly sweet and salty sauces across the board with no attention to presentation. Dessert was sad and the birthday cake was presented to the wrong guest. Food and service were depressing - how is this 2 stars??
Skimmingderby (Brooklyn)
Because it's a Two-Point Pete review! Wells has plainly said that he fears people will not read the one-star reviews so he doesn't write many of them. Shameful. The Times restaurant review has become a joke. I literally only read this column anymore because I am always eager to see when Two-Point Pete has struck. I'm seldom let down.
kicksotic (New York, NY)
I agree with this review. The Babbo I first went to a decade ago is not the same Babbo today. I feel rushed, overlooked, hurried, ignored. Not at all appreciated or even necessarily wanted. Take your pick.

With a noise level that's insane and plates that are predictably hit and miss (though not as miss as the vastly overrated Il Mulino i.e., my worst dining experience ever), I suspect Batali and Langello have some soul-searching to do.
JJ kenny (nyc)
I agree; the waiting area by the bar is like standing in the middle of grand central during rush hour; and it doesn't help that the host stand is right next to the coat check room, lol! The standing room area seems to have been decreased due to the addition of extra high top tables in front of the door. I guess they have to squeeze every penny they can get from the establishment to the detriment of it's guests.
NR (M)
In contrast to your review of Augustine where you raved about most of the dishes and gave it one star here you seem mostly dissatisfied and yet you give this place two stars? And rushed service is inexcusable and totally unfair to diners who probably waited for weeks for a reservation and spent their hard earned money on only to be rushed through the meal. For Mr Wells eating out is a weekly thing and he can take rushed, poor service lightly and even joke about it but for those for whom dinner out is an occasional treat poor service can ruin what was supposed to be a special time. Just for that a place should be given zero stars.
After reading the Augustine review about the beautiful setting and excellent service and seeing the pictures of the food I can't wait to go there despite the one star and after reading this review I think I'll pass on Babbo even though I've always wanted to go there.
Mark Rubin (Tucson, AZ)
The juxtaposition between last week and this week hit me in the very same way.
Pete (NYC)
Indeed. I had the same thought while reading both reviews. I've had the wonderful pleasure of dining at Augustine twice since it's opening. On the first occasion, my wife and I ate at the bar during the restaurant's first week open. Flawless, fun, and delicious in a wonderful atmosphere. By happenstance, we even got to meet Keith McNally himself and relayed our pleasurably experience.
The second time, even more fun. With our teenage son in tow, we were seated in a wonderful location (it was early in the evening). We were able to try a few more dishes, and my son could not get over the flavor of the burger. And the service was lovely. You really can't beat the overall dining experience.
I haven't been to Babbo in ages, but today's review certainly does not send me there.
Arthur (Manhattan)
I been eating there since it opened. And it is still the best Italian restaurant in the city
Stacey (<br/>)
No mention of the ridiculously loud music. It's impossible to converse with one's dining companions without shouting. During a recent meal at Babbo (the first in many years), I asked for a quiet(er) seat and was taken upstairs. The music was still intrusive. I asked that it be lowered and was told that "this is what we do here." It wasn't always thus. I won't be going back.
Dan (LI, NY)
"Sound Almost soothing early on, but later at night the noise can hit stadium levels."
L (NYC)
@Stacey: Thanks for mentioning this.

I've never been to Babbo, and now I won't ever eat there, because I avoid at all costs ANY restaurant where I can't carry on a conversation at normal voice levels. My rule is: If I have to shout, I'm outta there, even if I had a reservation.

Babbo can say "this is what we do here" - and we who have money to spend on dining out can say "Buh-bye, Babbo!"
Eater (UWS)
Two stars for Babbo diluted by the two stars given to the poor to middling White Gold Butchers with unimaginative food, poor service, unknowledgable staff (and no bar). Pete still needs to explain his methodology so we all know how he grades on a curve. Perhaps April and Ken deserve it more more than Mario and Joe? I'm sure there's a simpler explanation for the yuuge disparity in review ratings and quality of experience curves. What gives, Pete?