You Rule Miss Ella!
I immediately recalled the excellent service we enjoyed and corrective action after a waiter's dumb blunder. Great food, great service...thanks for the memories. Oh that I could go back more often.
1
Why is this lady now living the life that I was meant to live? #notfair
Great story, great feel for the Brennan's and Big Swamp City. Thanks, www.LEJ.org
Though I wasn't born in NOLA, my mother's family is from there. Whenever my husband & I visit, we try to get to Commanders. We've always enjoyed the service and the food. The Creole cheesecake is to die for! Ella Brennan is one of a kind!!!
Commander's Palace is still one of the great restaurants in America. Take the trolley through the Garden District, walk around the fabulous cemetery across the street and enjoy a great meal-it doesn't get any better Congratulations to the Grand Dame of New Orleans!!
New Orleans is a heavy food city. After being there years ago for four days and going to most of the famous restaurants as guests of my cousin's husband who is himself a famous restauranteur, my husband and I were "fooded" out. I desperately needed a salad, a fish with only butter and lemon, a dessert of berries or melon.
Brennan's breakfast was a life-time experience. Bananas Foster will be one of the things I remember on my deathbed. I can still see that flambé.
Yes, I'm glad I was able to be there, to eat and see and enjoy. I am also glad that New York City now has places to eat a wonderful meal without feeling swamped with cream sauces and overwhelming sweets. NOLA is a fabulous place but our tastes in food have changed. I hope the restaurants there have changed as well. Bless Ms. Brennan for what's she's done, but when she goes, the food tastes she represents might just go with her.
Brennan's breakfast was a life-time experience. Bananas Foster will be one of the things I remember on my deathbed. I can still see that flambé.
Yes, I'm glad I was able to be there, to eat and see and enjoy. I am also glad that New York City now has places to eat a wonderful meal without feeling swamped with cream sauces and overwhelming sweets. NOLA is a fabulous place but our tastes in food have changed. I hope the restaurants there have changed as well. Bless Ms. Brennan for what's she's done, but when she goes, the food tastes she represents might just go with her.
I don't think you dined at Commander's, since none of the dishes are "swamped with cream sauces". Well, except the bread pudding souffle with whiskey sauce ! There are grilled whole snappers, ceviche, oysters , and an array of delightful, flavorful healthy AND delicious choices. And Ella's food and influence will be around long after she is at the Jazz Brunch in heaven!
1
My wife and I go to dinner at Commanders Palace every time we go to New Orleans, making a reservations weeks, sometimes months, in advance. The food is fantastic, but the service and ambiance makes you feel welcome and happy. A big place, with personalized service, deserving of all the fame and praise it gets.
1
I went to New Orleans a few years ago with a group of friends to run the marathon. The day before the race, we went to Brennan's for breakfast. I am a vegan, so I just had the black coffee (which was excellent) but I was blown away by the courteous service shown to our group. When the front of the house is detail-oriented, you know it extends to the kitchen as well!
2
I can't believe no one has mentioned the Creole Cream Cheese Cheesecake at Commander's Palace. It's not always on the menu but they usually have it if you ask for it. It's like no other cheesecake you have ever tasted.
1
Pre Katrina, my wife and I made a weekend New Orleans get away from the kids trip (a perfect 230 miles from Pensacola). My wife had made reservations for brunch. The night before resulted in quite the hangover and the heat did not help. We wandered around the historic cemetery across the street waiting for our reservation time. I honestly wished that I could have just crawled into one of the crypts.
Finally getting called to our table, I was truly sweating it. Amazingly the turtle soup was magic. A few spoonfuls and I was a transformed person. It was a wonderful brunch and the bread pudding souffle was unlike any that I have ever tasted.
We love New Orleans, we love the people, we love being able to visit a couple of times a year. We especially love that New Orleans ten years later is getting better every day.
Finally getting called to our table, I was truly sweating it. Amazingly the turtle soup was magic. A few spoonfuls and I was a transformed person. It was a wonderful brunch and the bread pudding souffle was unlike any that I have ever tasted.
We love New Orleans, we love the people, we love being able to visit a couple of times a year. We especially love that New Orleans ten years later is getting better every day.
4
New Orleans is, without a doubt, our favorite city in the US. We have been there more times than I can recall. Every single time we go, we do a late lunch at Commander's Palace. We've never been disappointed. The turtle soup is beyond sublime. The bread pudding souffle' is a perfect ending to a perfect meal. It's light as a cloud and packed with amazing flavor. I love this great old restaurant. Loved reading about the amazing woman whose vision created this wonderful home of inventive entrees, desserts, and beverages, and impeccable gentile service. Brava, Miss Ella!
6
ella brennan is a national treasure. nothing left to say.
10
Amen!
When you take your 80 year old mother out for her birthday dinner and the owner of the restaurant surprises your table with a made-from-scratch birthday cake, you know you're home. Leah Chase did just that for my mother in 1996.
Katrina blew us away to the Carolinas- but every day, we know what it means to miss New Orleans.
Katrina blew us away to the Carolinas- but every day, we know what it means to miss New Orleans.
11
Read the book and was at Commander's Palace in January. Ella, you are a wonderful and interesting character. A example of how to live life to the fullest while caring for those around you (is there any other way?). Congrats to you!
6
Reading this very interesting piece this morning brings back a lovely memory of visiting New Orleans with my late husband, and having a fabulous breakfast at Brennan's, including Bananas Foster prepared table side. My husband was so impressed with the flaming rum that he learned to prepare Bananas Foster himself so he could impress our grown-up children at family reunions.
6
A woman who succeed in what was a man's world at the time, in city that has always been a place of great competition between wonderful eating places, deserves high praise. A good and longer life to the wonderful woman. Always list Commander's at the top eating places I have been too. It succeeds as to cooking, service and ambiance. Champagne at 90+, please let it be me one day.
15
Not sure what this means:
“We want people who eat here to feel important, and we want them to have fun,”
Why would anyone feel important if they eat at the Commanders Palace, as much as a staple as it is?
“We want people who eat here to feel important, and we want them to have fun,”
Why would anyone feel important if they eat at the Commanders Palace, as much as a staple as it is?
2
Stay in NYC. You wouldn't appreciate New Orleans anyway with your snobbish comment. Obviously you've never eaten there.
19
I have to agree with Charlot
It has and always be special...the setting, the food, the service...you just don;t get that anywhere else
while in college in late 70's that was true
as a surgery resident returning in the 80's it was true
as a visiting professor in the 90's
and a few years ago with my grown sons...still true...
what can I say?
It has and always be special...the setting, the food, the service...you just don;t get that anywhere else
while in college in late 70's that was true
as a surgery resident returning in the 80's it was true
as a visiting professor in the 90's
and a few years ago with my grown sons...still true...
what can I say?
7
Brilliant!
4
Just want to say, anybody who knocks Miss Ella and Commander's Palace doesn't understand what service is all about. Never experienced anything like it. Ever.
16
Lovely story and makes me want to visit New Orleans and try some Brennan family restaurants and enjoy south Louisiana nouvelle cuisine. Ella sounds like an awesome woman. I love our Pacific Northwest cuisine, our great salmon and dungeness, but boy does this south Louisiana food sound marvelous!
8
My daughter and I went to Brennan's recently; the chicken I was served was quite raw in the middle, and the waiter informed me that their customers liked their chicken rare. I will not be back, even though the place is really lovely to look at.
3
Note, she hasn't run/owned Brennan's in many years. Read the article for details. Hence, your rare chicken is not her problem.
12
Definitely check out the documentary film mentioned in the article. To do what Ella Brennan did during that time is mind blowing. Warning- the film will make you hungry!
10
Just pass the fried chicken.
http://video.bonappetit.com/watch/eat-stay-love-meet-the-93-year-old-wom...
http://video.bonappetit.com/watch/eat-stay-love-meet-the-93-year-old-wom...
4
A little too Marie Antoinette for me. Am not entirely sure what Ella Brennan did to advance women (outside her family) in her restaurants' kitchens. Perhaps the book or the documentary will have answers. Is her restaurant staff her household staff? Hope they are well paid for the double duty.
4
What she did for women was succeed herself. She started working for her brother straight out of high school and worked very hard. When he died suddenly, just as he was planning to move the restaurant to the Royal Street location, bankers withdrew their support because there was a WOMAN heading the enterprise. Ella has served as an example of what a woman with integrity, vision, optimism, tenacity -- what we would call grit today -- and an absolute determination not to let tragedy flatten her can accomplish. She's done lots for lots of people. She's a generous, progressive woman. But her example may be her greatest gift.
57
Let me confirm that for sure you do not know.....
3
I think it best you reserve your comments for things you have even the slightest knowledge of. Ella's career stands as an example of what anyone can do, woman or man, if they posses determination, passion and a drive to succeed. She's an icon and she and her family contribute so much to New Orleans. So read about her before you post something!
5
Commander's Palace is a wonderful restaurant in such a fascinating neighborhood. The jazz brunch is as great as the beauty of its evening magical setting.
Antoine's is the other restaurant I always recommend.
Antoine's is the other restaurant I always recommend.
13
My wife and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Commander's Palace in 2016. Our trip to New Orleans was wonderful for many reasons, and that dinner was certainly a highlight.
14
15 or 20 years ago, my wife and I (on vacation) had dinner at Commander's Palace. The food was everything you could hope for. BUT, there was a rowdy, noisy bunch of groomsmen making an awful racket through most of the dinner -- obviously enjoying themselves without regard to disturbing others around them. When I paid the bill, I wrote on the credit card receipt that I was disappointed the group hadn't been spoken to. A few days later, I received a full refund and a handwritten apology from Ms. Brennan stating "this isn't how we do things at Commander's Palace." What a class act and a display of customer service I've never forgotten.
81
In the fall of 1971 I sat out a semester from SLU because I was making such good money (tips) as a waiter at Brennan's. In November of '71, Ms Ella asked me when I was going back to College, I said the money was so good I might just stay out for a while. She said: " If you do quit College, I don't know where you will wait tables, because it won't be at Brennan's." I returned to SLU that Spring an continued to work weekends
66
As a New Orleanian I have had numerous meals and encounters at many of the Brennan restaurant offerings throughout New Orleans. My favorite memory of Ella Brennan is one experienced many times while dining at Commanders Palace. On a busy night (and it was always busy) you would find the owner this iconic much loved restaurant sitting atop a bar stool, gloved, making sure the french bread was hot and ready to be presented to the patrons
When I think of Ella Brennan I also think of the turtle soup and the bread pudding souffle. If there is a heaven and I hope there is I am sure those dishes will be there for my pleasure.
When I think of Ella Brennan I also think of the turtle soup and the bread pudding souffle. If there is a heaven and I hope there is I am sure those dishes will be there for my pleasure.
19
New Orleans in the early (and late) seventies brings back so many memories and made a good cook out of me. The man I eventually married enjoyed good food and drink and showing off what he knew, which came right out of his mothers Gourmet magazines. I insisted on driving there from Columbus, GA so I could bring home all the bread and boiled crawfish and French batterie de cuisine my heart desired. Brennans was always one of our stops.
You know you are on the right culinary track if your four year old requests Egg Benedict for breakfast.
You know you are on the right culinary track if your four year old requests Egg Benedict for breakfast.
21
Since the 1990s, every time I visited NOLA, Commander's Palace was the special occasion restaurant that I always looked forward to the most. In an effort to recreate the experience, I realized one year that I hadn't been very adventurous and seemed to stick to the classic dishes that are likely still served. Someone at the table always ordered the turtle soup, crawfish etouffee or the bananas foster. For me, though, no matter what I would try for dinner, I would ALWAYS have the bread pudding with whiskey sauce.
23
I'm glad that Commander's has developed a national reputation, but I don't remember it being anything special. Rather, it was huge and touristy, and from first-hand reports, it sounds like it still is. And no one in New Orleans could care less about Ms. Brennan and her family.
12
As a native New Orleanian, I beg to differ. Because the Brennan's have always been gracious to both guests and employees, because the kitchen has been a launching pad to many of the local chefs who have gone on to open their own places ( with Ella's blessing), and because the family has been very involved in supporting other civic enterprises, I do think that Ella and the Brennan family are revered.
And both Commanders and Brennan's, since it is now back under Ella's side of the family's control, are interested in evolving tastes, not just frozen-in-amber recipes.
And both Commanders and Brennan's, since it is now back under Ella's side of the family's control, are interested in evolving tastes, not just frozen-in-amber recipes.
60
I've been to Brennan family restaurants many times over the years, and have found all the family members to gracious, humble and welcoming in their restaurants and in the community at large.I've had the good fortune to dine in exquisite restaurants in North America and Europe, and many in New Orleans rank among the best. New Orleans is a very unique place whose charms can be missed by those visitors who can't discern nuance or feel history. Their loss, not the city's.
8
As an native Louisianian and former one time resident of New Orleans, now living in Paris, I must comment that the cultural infrastructure of New Orleans is fortunately different from mainstream Americana.
Unique New Orleans retains an old world French flavour, where local traditions and familial ties are more exalted and are passed down like treasured legacies.
Miss Ella is exemplary of this charming model of exquisite joie de vivre interwoven with the utmost of Southern politeness extended to all. Bravo Miss Ella!
Unique New Orleans retains an old world French flavour, where local traditions and familial ties are more exalted and are passed down like treasured legacies.
Miss Ella is exemplary of this charming model of exquisite joie de vivre interwoven with the utmost of Southern politeness extended to all. Bravo Miss Ella!
1
I hope they present her with a proper bill for her meals & wines and not write them off as part the cost of doing business at the restaurant. Those foods & wines are listed on the restaurant's tax filings as 'cost' - and most likely no income from her to pay for it.
4
Aren't you just a charming fellow? I'm sure Ms. Brennan has more than "paid back her bill" -- as effectively the CEO of these iconic establishments.
29
Yes, accounting is the key takeaway here
6
This is exactly how I want to live at age 91.
70
Wwwwrreally? Grossly overweight, and wobbling around in a walker...? Myself, I plan to be setting master's track records and eating sensibly and healthily.
I know, right? Sea urchin and scallop souffle with a Cote de Beaune at 91? Yes, please!
5
Honey, at 91 I'm planning on starting each day with a cigarette and a shot of tequila. The time for self-sacrifice and health and such will be definitely over and I'll love every minute of it should I be so lucky!
9
My $.02 as a NOLA ex-pat:
There are some "old school" restaurants in New Orleans where a diner does get what was paid for. IMHO, Brennan' and Commander's are not in that group.
My favorite "old school"? Dookey Chase's...
There are some "old school" restaurants in New Orleans where a diner does get what was paid for. IMHO, Brennan' and Commander's are not in that group.
My favorite "old school"? Dookey Chase's...
14
My wife lived in New Orleans. One day she took me back with my mom and dad and we did Sunday brunch at Commander's Palace. We sat at Ronald Reagan's table. There was a jazz trio going around from room to room, the atmosphere was magical. I cannot recall how good the food was, I am sure it was good, if not great, but the experience was electric. I had been to New Orleans before and I had eaten at Galatoire's and many of the other New Orleans restaurants but what set Commander's apart was the atmosphere. The dining experience was superb. It left an indelible impression on me that lasts to this day, even more than 20 years later. To say Commander's does not deliver is ludicrous. Besides, they refused to serve Bruce Springsteen because he showed up in jeans. What restaurant has standards like that, and I like Bruce. Commander's deserves respect, just for setting a high standard.
33
Agree!
2
As a flight attendant for Continental, I was fortunate to spend a great deal of time in New Orleans. One day, I had a lovely couple on my flight and we got to chatting about their hometown, New Orleans.
When I mentioned that my favorite restaurant was there, they asked what that might be. When I replied, "Commander's Palace" they laughed and said, "Bingo! Did you ever have the right answer!"
Towards the end of the flight, I was walking down the aisle and Mrs. Brennan handed me her business card and told me, "Don't be afraid to use it."
I never was.
When I mentioned that my favorite restaurant was there, they asked what that might be. When I replied, "Commander's Palace" they laughed and said, "Bingo! Did you ever have the right answer!"
Towards the end of the flight, I was walking down the aisle and Mrs. Brennan handed me her business card and told me, "Don't be afraid to use it."
I never was.
88
New Orleans is living on its past, hence this article on "Miss Ella" and the Commanders Palace, Brennan's, etc. The new food destination place is here in Birmingham where Frank Stitt is leaving a mark on food throughout the Southeast.
9
New Orleans currently ranks second (behind New York City) in the number of James Beard Award nominations, which is but one indicator that its current restaurant scene is as dynamic and innovative as its classics restaurants are still delicious and relevant.
But bless your heart for thinking that Birmingham even comes close.
But bless your heart for thinking that Birmingham even comes close.
83
Tell me this a joke!
I've been to New Orleans four times (definitely not nearly as many times as I would like) and I've been amazed by the restaurants and the meals I have eaten there. There is no need to put down a city to promote your own. By the way, Birmingham is not a city I've ever visited and I haven't heard about a food scene there, at least not one reported by the New York Times.
8
I just watched this weekend a beautifully done documentary on Ella. It was marvelously filmed and scored that I wanted to fly at once to experience Commander's. You can be sure that I will after seeing the film and reading this article. What a gemstone of New Orleans Ella is! You go girl!!
JBD
JBD
12
First went to Commander's Palace, in 1984. Been back at least a dozen times since, usually after attending the Fest. Not only is it the best place to eat in N.O., which is saying something, but the best place I've ever been to anywhere. Gotta love the .25 martini's
15
Jazz Brunch at Commander's Palace-- can't be beat! And the bread pudding is a work of art and tastes delicious!
11
Last month, my wife and I made our first trip to New Orleans and had the pleasure of a Friday lunch at the Commander's Palace. In an age of tourist traps and chains, tee shirts and shorts, it was a pleasure to take a step back in time when going out to a restaurant was itself a special occasion. The food was fantastic and the staff very attentive. When was the last time the restaurant owner met with you? Oh, and the photo of Miss Ella and the legion of staff waiting on her? You can expect the same during your visit.
12
When I went years ago it was overpriced, oversold, and mediocre.
6
Maybe you should stick with Mcdonalds Bob
2
I gather you are from Wyoming...it really shows.
2
New Orleans is one of the country's, no make that the world's, great cities. Full of characters, love of life, some violence to be sure and so much more. A plethora of fine chefs and restaurants and "we don't die" attitude after Katrina make it a joy to visit.
Thank you Ms. Brennan for helping make New Orleans, New Orleans. Oh, and by the way, it is "New Orlins" not "New Orleans" as in "lean").
Thank you Ms. Brennan for helping make New Orleans, New Orleans. Oh, and by the way, it is "New Orlins" not "New Orleans" as in "lean").
16
Nope. It is pronounced Noo-or-lee-ans. Period. I come from pre Civil War No la natives who founded Tulane U. And they spoke well.
7
I've never heard a native New Orleanian say "New Or-leans". And I lived their for much of my life, studying at Domenican College and Loyola, and generally enjoying life in the Garden District, and all over the city. Everyone pronounced the city's name as New Or-lens.
LOL. Noo Or-lee-ans is the uptown pronunciation. New Orlinz is also correct, as is New Awlins. Just never, never, never N'Awlins, dawlin'. :)
3
Ms Ella should have taken the helm of Tavern on the Green. A NYC dining establishment with many of the same appointments as Commanders. As TOG continues its death spiral, Commander ' s keeps chugging along, as good now as it was 40 yrs ago, perhaps better.
17
I covered Houston as a traveling salesman in the 80s and dined at Brennan's on Smith St as a single diner many times. I remember being invited by Ms. Brennan on more than one occasion when she was in town to enjoy a cocktail and pleasant conversation in the courtyard before dinner. Almost 40 years later Brennan's in Houston, and Commander's Palace, remain similarly welcoming, not to mention elegant and energetic places to dine well.
16
My wife and I celebrated our second anniversary at Commanders in 1969. We were seated on the patio and I noticed a lady crossing the back yard next door and down the steps to the patio. This was my introduction to Miss Ella. She visited every table and was sincerely interested in each customer. In the following years, we have celebrated many anniversaries at Commanders. We have been greeted by Ti many times and most recently by Lally. Every visit has been a memorable experience. This year we plan to celebrate our fiftieth anniversary there with our children and grandchildren. Commanders Palace is truly one of the grandest restaurants in the country.
32
Went to New Orleans earlier this year and had breakfast at Brennan's one morning and the Jazz Sunday brunch at Commander's Palace the next. While the food was excellent, the service was outstanding. At both restaurants we had three servers waiting on us. All were very professional and friendly. There may be more inventive or updated menus at newer places like La Petite Grocery or Shaya which I also dined during that trip; but those restaurants only had one server waiting on us. The old school restaurants really make you feel special.
22
I hope she is giving a LOAD to charity because this looks much to decadent when people are going hungry probably just a few miles from her home.
4
Ella Brennan employs people. Lots of them. She teaches them to earn a living and to have the dignity of working. You know...teach a man to fish...Why would you make such a presumptuous and self righteous statement about a woman who has worked hard and employed thousands of people, as a result of which many have gained lifetime employment and the pride of supporting themselves. And you have no idea how generous she is, since she is not the type to self aggrandize.
10
I've noticed most of the snarky comments coming from NYC. You are just perpetuating old generalizations that we have down here about Yankees. If reminds me of my last visit. I happened to get off a bus right in front of the NYT. I stopped dead in my tracks and just gaped at that logo. Several people were clearly agitated that I had stopped walking, but I couldn't help myself. Stop and smell the roses, for Heaven's sake, even if they do smell like news print!
1
What a wonderful experience it was when we were in college to have a meal at Brennan's or Commander's Palace. Pricey for college kids, but something to be saved for, looked forward to and remembered forever.
Thanks so much for the update on Ella Brennan.
Thanks so much for the update on Ella Brennan.
5
I'm a displaced New Orleanian. If the Brennan family could get along with each other, there would be a couple more iconic NOLA restaurants. I would not want to meet Mz. Brennan in a dark alley when she's in a dither.
4
Thanks for the article. I've always been confused about "Brennan's" and "Commander's Palace" where we had brunch over 20 years ago. A truly unforgettable experience. Now I understand. I raise my glass of champagne to Ms. Brennan and to Paul Prudhomme whose whole in the wall restaurant in the Quarter changed our attitude about food forever. New Orleans. A culinary adventure, still vibrant I hope.
10
The Irish have had quite an effect upon New Orleans cooking and business.
7
Took a friend from Northern Europe to visit here and she immediately noticed: all the waitstaff were white while blacks were only seen amongst kitchen staff, valet parking, etc. Seems a little unlikely that this would happen purely by coincidence in a city as diverse as New Orleans. We left wondering if this were official policy. Don't think we'll be back to verify.
10
I never had a bad meal in Nawlins....and the Commander's Palace Brunch is great. Love the city, love the food, love the people.
11
"Do you know what it means, to miss New Orleans?" as Louis Armstrong sang. I certainly do and it's really nice reading this piece in the Times and getting a little feel of home.
13
Dining at Commander's was made extra special when Ella was there--she always made time to chat and make you feel at home. Many blessings to her and for her.
6
And she never learned to COOK? Oh, how I love this woman. Clearly, she has done it her way. What a wonderful story. What an amazing life!
Thank you, NYT, for bringing a smile to my day and memories of great meals at Commander's and Brennans.
Thank you, NYT, for bringing a smile to my day and memories of great meals at Commander's and Brennans.
33
One little thing I have always loved about the restaurants I've eaten at that have been owned by Miss Ella or her side of the family was that the women's bathrooms were always tastefully stocked with tampons and pads. A true indicator that the restaurant was run by a gracious woman who never wanted an unexpected event to ruin an evening for her guests.
59
I had one if the most memorable meals of my life at Commanders Palace, memorable because it was so awful. We were lead through lovely rooms on a long hike to what was evidently tourist Siberia, complete with frigid air conditioning blowing on us that the waitress had no interest in turning down. When our appetizers came, my husband pointed out the tray by the waiters' station on which were two covered plates, and predicted that those were our rapidly-chilling main courses...yup! I recall feeling so sorry for a young couple seated near us as the man proposed to the woman in this inhospitable tourist trap.
The rest of our trip to New Orleans was lovely, with amazing meals and service, but the disappointment of that cash grab lingers. It was the weekend Princess Diana died; I remember the absolute silence as everyone at breakfast read the newspaper when I spotted the headline, long before the advent of the internet.
The rest of our trip to New Orleans was lovely, with amazing meals and service, but the disappointment of that cash grab lingers. It was the weekend Princess Diana died; I remember the absolute silence as everyone at breakfast read the newspaper when I spotted the headline, long before the advent of the internet.
21
Your memory of the Internet, which I've been on since @1980, is faulty, as is your memory of Commander's Palace.
3
During my brief visit to NOLA in December I did eat in restaurants a lot and the food was always wonderful at such places as Tujague, Peche and others. Tujague is the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans and is superb. And my son works there. Of course.
17
One of my happiest memories is of four days in NOLA in 1964: breakfast at Brennan's, dinner at Antoine's, chicory coffee and square donuts, pecan pralines, oysters Rockefeller. But the highlight was dinner at Corinne Dunbar's on St. Charles in the Garden District. Reservations only, two set-time seatings an evening, and no menu, just six courses of delightful Creole cooking. Apparently it was not well-known even to the locals--or at least our cab-driver was certainly mystified when we assured him this little house was really a restaurant.
A sweet little maid in a lacy cap opened the front the door (one had to ring to summon her) and led us to a Victorian parlor where we were seated on a velvet settee and each handed a glass of sherry for the short wait for our table. There were hardly more than a dozen tables placed in the front parlor and the adjoining glassed in front porch, the latter screened from the street with white silk Russian window shades. A hostess discreetly presented bill when we first entered so that the fiction that we were invited guests at a private party could be more convincingly maintained.
Mrs. Dunbar had been a hostess of some note for her circle of haute monde friends in the 1920s until she was left a widow and somewhat impoverished. The friends who had enjoyed her dinner parties suggested she open a restaurant in her home, thus the limited number of tables. The establishment thrived until the mid 1980's.
A sweet little maid in a lacy cap opened the front the door (one had to ring to summon her) and led us to a Victorian parlor where we were seated on a velvet settee and each handed a glass of sherry for the short wait for our table. There were hardly more than a dozen tables placed in the front parlor and the adjoining glassed in front porch, the latter screened from the street with white silk Russian window shades. A hostess discreetly presented bill when we first entered so that the fiction that we were invited guests at a private party could be more convincingly maintained.
Mrs. Dunbar had been a hostess of some note for her circle of haute monde friends in the 1920s until she was left a widow and somewhat impoverished. The friends who had enjoyed her dinner parties suggested she open a restaurant in her home, thus the limited number of tables. The establishment thrived until the mid 1980's.
30
I recall Corinne Dunbar's well. Always was a special treat. Wish I had the recipe for her glorious oyster and artichoke dish that I remember to this day, almost 50 years later.
Thank you so much for the lovely memory.
Thank you so much for the lovely memory.
4
In 1956 just out of undergraduate school I moved from California to Washington, DC, for a job. The next year, 1957, my mother and my two younger brothers drove across country to visit me. I took a vacation with them and we drove to many places, including New Orleans where we ate at Brennan's. I was quite thrilled at what was by then a well known restaurant along with another dinner we had at Antoine's. We had lunch at The Court of the Three Sisters. Thanks for jogging my memory and for the article.
24
That's a curiosity. I was trying to find the year of a fire that burnt up, it didn't burn down, the flagship Brennan's restaurant on Royal street, it was 1975, when I discovered another fire that destroyed a Brennan's in Houston in 2008.
I was at that fire in 1975 taking photos. It was unusual because one of the fire department officers threatened me about me taking pictures, which was uncharacteristic in 1975. There wasn't a generalized animosity or hostility against press photographers back then like there is today. I was given the distinct impression it was not an ordinary fire. It was serious. They poured
so much water into the building that water was spilling over the second floor window sills.
I was at that fire in 1975 taking photos. It was unusual because one of the fire department officers threatened me about me taking pictures, which was uncharacteristic in 1975. There wasn't a generalized animosity or hostility against press photographers back then like there is today. I was given the distinct impression it was not an ordinary fire. It was serious. They poured
so much water into the building that water was spilling over the second floor window sills.
19
The fire in 2008 was as a result of lightning from Hurricane Ike. If I remember correctly the manager and his family were sheltering there from the hurricane and at least one member of the family was injured.
3
As a former employee of Commander's, what they don't tell you is that they only pay each of those waits about $2.50 an hour, and offer them scant benefits and paltry vacation pay.
Its easy to dine like royalty off the backs of others. So glad my indentured servitude has ended.
Its easy to dine like royalty off the backs of others. So glad my indentured servitude has ended.
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Good for you. It should matter to everyone that a memorable meal in any successful restaurant depends on the wait servers too. They should be able to make a decent living wage with benefits or else the whole dining experience is tainted for me anyway.
1
How is that rate of pay different from any other restaurant? The system needs to change but no one will take it on. Shame.
4
Oh that is a load of sour grapes. Yes, like waiters everywhere the money the restaurant pays you is not what you actually work for.
I too worked at Commander's Palace back when Jamie Shannon was cooking there. Yes, we were paid a very low salary...but the tips were divine. I paid my own way thru college just working 4 nites a week (sometimes picking up additional shifts) without having to incur any student debt. I also paid rent and utilities out of that. I loved every minute I worked there, though the work was hard and sometimes the kitchen could make life hell.
But we had great comeraderie and fun...and the food was to die for.
But I am from New Orleans and we hold Commander's and the Brennan family in a special place in our hearts.
I too worked at Commander's Palace back when Jamie Shannon was cooking there. Yes, we were paid a very low salary...but the tips were divine. I paid my own way thru college just working 4 nites a week (sometimes picking up additional shifts) without having to incur any student debt. I also paid rent and utilities out of that. I loved every minute I worked there, though the work was hard and sometimes the kitchen could make life hell.
But we had great comeraderie and fun...and the food was to die for.
But I am from New Orleans and we hold Commander's and the Brennan family in a special place in our hearts.
13
I was driving cross-country with my family in the spring of 1975 and tried to get into breakfast at Brennan's - but they turned us down with what we thought was needless discourtesy, and we had instead to eat ghastly food at a nearby HoJo's. So we decided we loathed the place - and were greatly cheered when, staying later that night at a Holiday Inn up in Meridian, Mississippi, the lead item on the news was "Huge Blaze Destroys Legendary New Orleans Restaurant Brennan's". In our family it was high-fives and clinked glasses all around. So I was very glad to read here that by the time we tried to get in, Miss Ella had already been let go - I feel if she had been in charge we'd have been seated and all would have been well, for us and the restaurant too. Maybe there wouldn't have been a fire.
19
It was quite common for people to be turned away at Breakfast at Brennan's back then. Everyone in New Orleans knew about Breakfast at Brennan's. That doesn't account for their rudeness. I never did go there even though I lived in the city. This article is mostly advertising and brand promotion. It's not the first article I've seen with much of the same story.
2
I understand feeling slighted, but for your family to cheer a blaze -- in which people lost their jobs, and someone could have lost their life -- seems unnecessarily harsh, to put it kindly. I was denied entrance to a trendy club in London as a tourist in the 90s, presumably because I carried an unfashionable umbrella. It gave me a funny story to tell, and I would be mortified to relay that had the place burned down, I'd have cheered. Priorities, please!
16
I am pleased to say that the Brennan's mystique is still strong in Houston where I had a wonderful lunch last week. I am not sure about it's pedigree and relation to Ms. Brennan, but the subtle elegance is there coupled with finely tuned staff. Bananas Foster are as good as always.
20
@Baboulas: As mentioned in the article, Brennan's in Houston is directly tied to her side of the family. Great dining, also great power lunch place - the sense of power is impressive, from the time of great oil leaders, both traditional, and wildcatters especially. Am heading there this evening.
4
At 91 Ella Brennan looks like royalty in a queen's setting with a fancy chandelier being served wine and what looks, like a pot pie or a souffle at a dinner party at her home. A picture is worth a thousand words, great food, good red wine, continuing purpose in life, good company, glamorous ambience and social interactions explains her longevity.
50
Thank you for this piece. I have had the good fortune to celebrate many birthdays, graduations, engagements and even a baby shower at Commander's Palace, and I still did not know much about Ms. Ella and her positive impact on the restaurant business. It puts a smile on my face to learn that she is still enjoying food, wine and good company. I hope she continues to for a long time.
41
Many years ago in the early 70's, I was National Sales and marketing Manager for a CA wine company and major accounts were my responsibility. We got the house wine and were the featured wine company. I was asked to train their wine staff on all things wine and everyone there regarded it as a pleasure to work at the Palace.
NOLA is a favorite foodie town - had a great meal there with a group of European friends. One thing my European friends won't put up with is waiters clearing the table before everybody finishes their meal, A real no no and they let the wait staff know.
We had a late meeting and just by accident discovered The Louisiana Bistro. Small place, fantastic food and very inexpensive - superb wine list - try it if your expense account won't fit into the Palaces menu prices.
NOLA is a favorite foodie town - had a great meal there with a group of European friends. One thing my European friends won't put up with is waiters clearing the table before everybody finishes their meal, A real no no and they let the wait staff know.
We had a late meeting and just by accident discovered The Louisiana Bistro. Small place, fantastic food and very inexpensive - superb wine list - try it if your expense account won't fit into the Palaces menu prices.
31
Not that it really has anything to do with this delightful portrait of a strong and successful woman, but I have to weigh in on the "when to remove the plates" issue. I've never understood the idea that diners who have finished their meal should be left to sit there with a dirty plate in front of them. I find it distasteful and have no problem, OTOH, being the last to finish while others have already had their places cleared.
2
When I was in culinary school in the late 80's, my wife and I made a pilgrimage to New Orleans and Commander's Palace Brunch was on top of the list. One of the best brunches that I have ever been to on either side of the kitchen.
K-Paul, Antoine's and Court of 3 Sisters were also on the visit. Even after 3 visits in 5 years, never got enough of the Palace.
K-Paul, Antoine's and Court of 3 Sisters were also on the visit. Even after 3 visits in 5 years, never got enough of the Palace.
50