My New Favorite Beans

Mar 17, 2017 · 25 comments
Barbara (USA)
Does this recipe freeze well?
Rob Kinghorn (<br/>)
Gustiamo in the Bronks has a lot of dried beans, including purgatory.
I just ordered (Minnesota) several types of Italian dried beans.
The garbanzos look particularly interesting.
Pat (USA)
Where do you FIND most of these beans? They are not offered on Amazon or found on an internet search.
Matthew (NJ)
Rancho Gordo sells some nice beans - one that Marcela Hazan liked:

https://www.ranchogordo.com/collections/heirloom-beans/products/marcella...

Alas, currently sold out :(
em (ny)
I only like fresh beans. How on Earth do you develop a taste for canned or dried?
mark (new york)
given the robust sales of canned beans by so many companies, it's obviously not that hard.
GC (Brooklyn)
I like fresh beans too, especially the almighty fresh fava!
Canned beans have no place in any kitchen, save the chickpea which in a pinch is decent in a can. But, overall, canned beans, as with anything canned, tend toward metallic mushiness.
If you're asking "How on Earth" can someone develop a taste for dried beans, well then you clearly aren't a bean eater. Take the glorious chick pea. Fresh chickpeas are pleasant, but dried are an otherworldly experience. Then you've got plenty of beans, such as the king of beans, the lentil, which you are not sold fresh. If you don't eat dried beans, then you don't know beans.
Katia Italia (Montefiascone VT italia)
Yes! We live part-time in Montefiascone, across Lake Bolsena from Gradoli, the home of these wonderful beans! Grazie mille (thank you very much) for featuring them and this recipe! My Italian friends will definitely enjoy this article!
Patricia C (Lowcountry, SC)
This sounds amazing. Where can I purchase the purgatory beans?
KLD (Texas)
The caption on the stew photo is WAY off base. It's simply absurd to call a dish full of eggs "vegetarian" and the dish has no fennel, it was replaced by carrots, apparently due to snow.
Rebecca (Seattle metro)
A dish with eggs is vegetarian; it is not vegan.
Daphne (Toronto, Ontario)
What recipe did you read? It uses both fresh fennel and fennel seeds.
Linda (<br/>)
Treat yourself to some Rancho Gordo (Napa, Calif.) Marcella white beans. The Times covered the history of these beans last year. They're divine and would no doubt be great in this recipe.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
My ideal -- so far never attained -- of a bean soup is one made of all the bean varieties in the world, from white, through all the colors of the rainbow, to black. I would love to be able to make such a soup, well seasoned with either medium dry sherry or with garlic and rosemary.
Can anyone recommend, where to find all the world beans on sale?
Raj (Long Island)
To do justice to beans today, you just have to use a Pressure Cooker.

Pressure Cooking simply reveals a new dimension of beans, and legumes.

Please give it a try sometime.
Caveat Emptor (Mill Valley)
Too true! However, I'll stick w/ canned garbanzos, thank you, after too many disappointing 12 hour sieges to render the dried variety even remotely edible via stovetop and/or oven.

For me, the question is whether, say, the odd homemade hummus, is truly worth sacrificing precious cupboard space AND upwards of $150 for a decent pressure cooker I'd use for little else.

Thus far, I chose rather to invest in a good, fresh California olive oil (T.J.'s is a steal @ around $12 per liter!) that soothes the rough edges from canned beans. BTW, a thorough rinsing in fresh water is essential to lose that slightly acrid aftertaste unfortunately accompanying preserved beans. I also believe these to be one of those foodstuffs well worth the premium for a top quality organic product.
freeken (marfa, 79843)
I agree heartily with Caveat. We do not do dried beans.

But we always keep a couple of cans of cannellini beans in the cupboard which we wash and combine with pasta and olive oil and veggies like asparagus, radishes and we even do a tuna/cannellini bean dish with olive oil.
Michael (White Plains, NY)
Have you tried Good Mother Stallard beans? You may have to grow them yourself.
David Auerbach (Durham,NC)
Rancho Gordo carries Good Mother Stallard. (and they are great.)
PacNW (Cascadia)
"I always keep a large supply of dried beans in the pantry."

Don't they keep better in the refrigerator?

There's no need to add cruelty-based foods like chicken eggs and animal flesh sausage to beans. Go cruelty free.
Matthew (NJ)
Dried beans are perfect for the pantry. No need to expend extra refrigeration resources, which are cruel to the environment.

BTW, are all other carnivores given a pass Or are we soon to require that they go vegan too?
Nancy (<br/>)
Are working conditions for the humans who harvest beans cruelty free?
Julie (<br/>)
I just ordered some of these beans to plant in my garden. For others who are interested, they can be found at:
https://uprisingorganics.com/
Michael (<br/>)
I found a bag of fagioli purgatorio at Eataly in Bologna while looking for my favorite zolifini. You should try some of those. Nicknamed Tuscan caviar for a good reason.
Simona (California)
So glad to read you've become a fan of fagioli del purgatotio, David. I love them too (and have written about them in my blog http://www.pulcetta.com/2016/11/recipe-purgatory-bean-salad-tahini-sauce... ). Central Italy is home to a number of delicious legumes: these beans are a great example. I am delighted to see them getting the attention they deserve. Thank you for featuring them in your column.