This is clearly a restaurant for the high rollers. Having eaten at at L'atelier numerous times in NYC and in Paris I have to admit that the food is always excellent albeit very expensive. I don't see how a casino restaurant can undercut the fine Montreal cuisine and their top chefs. They appear to be unrelated.
3
Never been to Montreal but spent a few days in Toronto and spent more than a month on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia. Terrific folks those Canadians Eh ?
It would seem to me that despite a few bruised egos among the hoity toity local chefs that the restaurant will wind up employing locals for its staff. That can't be a bad thing since it teaches new methods from an acclaimed chef and widens the body of knowledge.
It's interesting that at the time I was traveling through Eastern Canada that there was a call for French to become the official language of Quebec. I think it was finally defeated in a referendum. Perhaps this is a revenge of that.
It would seem to me that despite a few bruised egos among the hoity toity local chefs that the restaurant will wind up employing locals for its staff. That can't be a bad thing since it teaches new methods from an acclaimed chef and widens the body of knowledge.
It's interesting that at the time I was traveling through Eastern Canada that there was a call for French to become the official language of Quebec. I think it was finally defeated in a referendum. Perhaps this is a revenge of that.
1
Blew Beard- that wasn't yesterday you are referring to. Since 1974, French has been the only official language in the province, although several government services remain accessible in English. Québec has the distinction of being bilingual on constitutional and federal levels, while officially allowing only French in its provincial institutions.
Whether official or not, French is a Quebequer's first language. Most notably, Canadian national law dictates that all commercial products throughout Canada must be in both English and French. Interestingly, In the farthest reaches of the country any person working for the government with the public, must be fluent in both languages.
Once, in the center of the country, after driving in deepest winter ten hours due north on a highway that ran straight, and not having seen a single vehicle, we stopped to camp by a remote lake. On entering the completely deserted campground, we stopped at the entrance. The blond, blue-eyed eighteen-year-old girl slid back the window of her kiosque-cum-office, leaned out, and in perfect French, followed by perfect English, welcomed us to the campground. She then asked us in each language which we preferred. I knew I was in Canada.
You ask, where's it written that French is the official language of Québec? Everywhere, especially in the minds of Canadians.
Once, in the center of the country, after driving in deepest winter ten hours due north on a highway that ran straight, and not having seen a single vehicle, we stopped to camp by a remote lake. On entering the completely deserted campground, we stopped at the entrance. The blond, blue-eyed eighteen-year-old girl slid back the window of her kiosque-cum-office, leaned out, and in perfect French, followed by perfect English, welcomed us to the campground. She then asked us in each language which we preferred. I knew I was in Canada.
You ask, where's it written that French is the official language of Québec? Everywhere, especially in the minds of Canadians.
The French cuisine is one of the things that "have made France", alongside the historical "Thirty days". Who knows, perhaps in the latest Quebec quarrel, one party greased the palm of the officials more than the other?
Apart from that, France needs a new Ministry of National Gastronomy, to be created from a merger of several folklorist and nepotistic Ministries. The new Ministry's flag should depict the four typically Gallo-French products: a gourd of wine, a wheel of cheese, a baguette of bread, and a wild boar in a gallop charge.
Apart from that, France needs a new Ministry of National Gastronomy, to be created from a merger of several folklorist and nepotistic Ministries. The new Ministry's flag should depict the four typically Gallo-French products: a gourd of wine, a wheel of cheese, a baguette of bread, and a wild boar in a gallop charge.
I am a professional chef and I get very tired of all this nationalism in this industry. Good seasoned, European chefs are being run out of their jobs in order to employ local youngsters who do not have the breadth of experience to run large organisations efficiently and do not have the culinary experience to be able to bring young chefs up to their potential.
I have also seen the decline in these establishments both in employee morale and the quality of the restaurant.
I was working in Paris when Robuchon was in his heyday and was chef of the Concours Lafayette. He will bring plenty of new to the table in Canada so they should sit back and learn. When they have done with their careers what Robuchon had done with his then maybe the can bring a voice to the table.
In the meantime , watch and learn.
I worked in Verge’s Moulin de Mougins and I thought I was pretty well experienced and good at my job when I got there. Guess what? I wasn’t as hot as I thought I was and soon realized that Verge and Bocuse knew more about this industry than I ever would. Enough of the nationalism, we are all in this together and it is an ongoing process.
I have also seen the decline in these establishments both in employee morale and the quality of the restaurant.
I was working in Paris when Robuchon was in his heyday and was chef of the Concours Lafayette. He will bring plenty of new to the table in Canada so they should sit back and learn. When they have done with their careers what Robuchon had done with his then maybe the can bring a voice to the table.
In the meantime , watch and learn.
I worked in Verge’s Moulin de Mougins and I thought I was pretty well experienced and good at my job when I got there. Guess what? I wasn’t as hot as I thought I was and soon realized that Verge and Bocuse knew more about this industry than I ever would. Enough of the nationalism, we are all in this together and it is an ongoing process.
7
So I assume that your anti-nationalist sentiments extend to the foreigners employed in the restaurant kitchens back in your homeland, correct? Surely, you don't feel like they are taking away opportunities from your own fellow countrymen, right?
Funny how, when people are working abroad, they feel like opportunity should extend to everyone, but when they are at home, they feel like only their own should benefit.
Funny how, when people are working abroad, they feel like opportunity should extend to everyone, but when they are at home, they feel like only their own should benefit.
1
KenolnStereo, you presume too much. Seamus 216's comments were clearly in favor of his art, and only against protectionists who have lost sight of culinary profession and art.
Québec, my birthplace, is French. Why not welcome a culinary brother-in-arms and spiritual compatriot? Americans welcome Brits, who take over many jobs.
Québec, my birthplace, is French. Why not welcome a culinary brother-in-arms and spiritual compatriot? Americans welcome Brits, who take over many jobs.
These French-Canadians have always been a huge bunch of crybabies...grow up and accept the fact that you owe most of your culinary progress to the French in the first place - since they colonized.
3
I think there is some truth here because I live in a trendy area of the city and the liquor store is dominated by wines from France because the demand is so high. I have to leave the area to find a bit of diversity, like all the way downtown. Personally, I don't like everything local like Quebec cheese, Lamb or its overly sweet Cider. Residential construction, condo buildings are frequently copied from French homes. People want this and they sell out quickly. Don't get me wrong, they are nice looking places. No one is mentioning how these trendy chefs so strike some of us as a bit of a clique especially when they wanted to get on the food truck trend. It seemed that only a handful of quite successful restaurant owners could get involved. It wasn't actually very fair looking. And not everyone is a fan of Chesterman; I pay almost no attention to her reviews. The average person is spending most of their time just getting by and this debate is for a small club. I also saw these "Joe Beef" chefs on a US TV show as judges once and was so turned off by their crass demeanours and so obvious lack of diplomatic skills that I wouldn't give them my money. Even if it was meant for TV, it could have been toned down as they represent their businesses for some of us.
3
I care not a whit about this tempest in a consomme bowl, and even less about whatever aftermath--but don't you agree chef McMillan look just like Billy Joel?
2
I just love the phrase " Tempest in a consomme bowl " and will definitely use it in the future. You bring a much needed levity to the discourse. We all take ourselves too seriously by times.
2
I am fortunate enough to have a Quebecois fiancé, which means frequent trips to Montreal every year to visit friends and family. Montreal has without question, one of the most splendid food and restaurant scenes in the world. Seriously. So many outstanding restaurants for such a small city is remarkable. And they take serious pride in sourcing the quality ingredients produced right there in the Quebec region. Everything from meats fish and produce to locally made wines and beers, all made in Quebec. So I too find it hard to understand why the Quebec government decided not to give one of their own such a great opportunity. N'a pas de sens.
3
There has been an amazing culinary awakening in Montréal in the past decades, with a real pride in ingredients from Québec, and an emerging style that is as recognizable as that from New Orleans (for example). Joël Robuchon was once a great chef, but he is now merely the titular head of a chain of restaurants.
I am with you, Dave McMillan! See you soon at Joe Beef!
- M
I am with you, Dave McMillan! See you soon at Joe Beef!
- M
7
Where is your copy editor? David McMillan, who opposes the choice of Mr. Robuchon to lead the new casino restaurant, at Le Vin Papillon, one of several restaurants of which he is an owner.
David McMillan, who opposes the choice of Mr. Robuchon to lead the new casino restaurant, at Le Vin Papillon, one of several restaurants which he owns.
David McMillan, who opposes the choice of Mr. Robuchon to lead the new casino restaurant, at Le Vin Papillon, one of several restaurants which he owns.
1
Professional copy editor responding: there is a substantive difference between "of which he is an owner" and "which he owns": that of how many other people might also be owners. If there are others with ownership stakes (as is quite common in the restaurant business), the original is correct. Only if McMillan is sole owner is Mary Sojourner's "correction" valid. And if there is no indication of either sole or joint ownership, the original should stand; it is not good reporting to ascribe unsubstantiated information/status.
1
Being a Montrealaise de naissance, this harks back to wanting to be acknowledged by the supposed "mere patrie": If a Frenchman comes to Quebec, then we must be good enough. I had hoped that died in the early 80's, but it seems alive and well.
It's also related to "nul n'est prophete en son pays" i.e. foreigners know better than the new generation of local chefs who are oddly enough, recognized internationally....
Lastly, the cynic in me suggests looking at travel accounts of the Loto Quebec execs to look at numerous repeat jaunts at taxpayer expense to meet Mr. Robuchon...just to make sure they have the right person...in my own Las Vegas where the big name chef/casino mix is alive and well. And profitable, it can't be denied. Perhaps this will disgusts enough peopel to go "en masse" to the local chef restaurants and send a message via the wallet. As we all know, money talks, merit walks.
It's also related to "nul n'est prophete en son pays" i.e. foreigners know better than the new generation of local chefs who are oddly enough, recognized internationally....
Lastly, the cynic in me suggests looking at travel accounts of the Loto Quebec execs to look at numerous repeat jaunts at taxpayer expense to meet Mr. Robuchon...just to make sure they have the right person...in my own Las Vegas where the big name chef/casino mix is alive and well. And profitable, it can't be denied. Perhaps this will disgusts enough peopel to go "en masse" to the local chef restaurants and send a message via the wallet. As we all know, money talks, merit walks.
4
When my wife and I visit Montreal, we eat local. A big name in a casino is not bringing us in. Same goes for Emeril or anyone else.
4
Lesley Chesterman is not a "freelance food writer." She has been the Montreal Gazette's upscale restaurant critic for years, and is also a regular contributor on Radio Canada Premiere (the French equivalent tothe Canadian Broadcasting Corporation). To a Montrealer, this is like referring to Pete Wells as a "freelance food writer."
4
There are few things more whingy than a Quebecois chef denied his Quebecois protectionism.
2
So true on many fronts.
1
This seems like a public display of the inferiority complex of Quebec government officials who thought that a French chef must be better than anything the Province can put forward. But it is not a good publicity for the executive chef Éric Gonzalez to appear all in black and not smoothly shaven.
1
Montreal chefs have nothing to fear from L'Atelier, except the fact it refers to Robuchon, the food is a shame to France cuisine.
1
...okay, but can we talk about the design? It's like an expensive mash-up of P. F. Chang's and TGI Friday's.
6
Lesley Chesterman is the restaurant critic for the Montreal Gazette. Please make note of this in your article. She is not "a freelance food writer"
6
As a former Québécois I read this article with disdain for the attention given to a the selection of a franchise restaurant that will be run in a tacky casino located in yet another of Montréal's "has-been", tourist-centric public spaces.
Yes, I know that the outrage stems from the use of public funds and that a qualified local chef, of which there are many, was passed over.
But when it comes to outrage over how Québec spends the nearly 50% tax on income they take, I prefer to focus on how the province runs the worst hospital in North America in a region (Gatineau) where its residents must cross the border int Ottawa to find basic medical services.
Now that is an outrage.
Yes, I know that the outrage stems from the use of public funds and that a qualified local chef, of which there are many, was passed over.
But when it comes to outrage over how Québec spends the nearly 50% tax on income they take, I prefer to focus on how the province runs the worst hospital in North America in a region (Gatineau) where its residents must cross the border int Ottawa to find basic medical services.
Now that is an outrage.
10
This is, excuse the pun, deliciously ironic! Canada is making a huge deal out of being open to foreigners and attacking Trump for insularity, but when they feel the pain they see things quite differently! Now they see that their impulsive indignation can result in the loss of much that is Canadian!
1
I don't believe that you quite grasp the subtle differences between Canada & Quebec.
And please don't inject Trump in on a conversation about gastronomy...he eats his very expensive steak very well done. Truly a vulgarian.
And please don't inject Trump in on a conversation about gastronomy...he eats his very expensive steak very well done. Truly a vulgarian.
3
KLD, you're over-generalizing. The squabble is among not even a handful (3 or 4) Montrealers who have clearly defined vested interests!
1
Don't see what all the controversy is about since most Montrealer's don't even set foot in the Casino, let alone put down $200 for a tasting menu in Montreal. The Casino is largely for tourists or one time visits by the locals. For the best food people will look elsewhere like the Plateau, the Main or even Chinatown 2. The market for meals >$200 is just is tiny in Montreal. It is not New York or LA.
4
The real problem is that the Québécois dislike anyone who is not Québécois-in Montreal in particular. Not a welcoming city even if you speak French. Get over your inferiority complex, be welcoming, and put some love into the beautiful city that Montreal could be.
9
KC, clearly you don't know the myriad European, American and Latin American people I've known over the years, who all gush about how warm and helpful the people of Québec are. For years Parisians were described as cold and uncooperative, but I never found them so. I apologize for any bad experience you had at the hands of my fellow Québequers.
The point the Quebec chefs are making is that the government (which bankrolls the casino and therefore the restaurant) does not *need* to get culinary talent from abroad to make a reputation on the world stage; instead, they should have used their plans as an opportunity to grow and showcase what the local community can do. And given that Quebec taxpayers are ultimately footing the bill, that viewpoint has a stronger root in political pragmatism than what the casino management is currently spinning.
20
Joel Robuchon has been, and may still be, the best chef in France, although others may have more Michelin macarons. If he wants to have a restaurant in Montreal, let him. Chefs in Montreal should not object, but if they have a problem, they should simply demonstrate that they are excellent chefs, too. Bald protectionism is not the way to go. His arrival will cause more people to want to go to fine restauarants.
9
Um, read the article. Montreal chefs have NO problem with foreign chefs opening restaurants here. The problem in this case is that the restaurant is being bankrolled by a government institution to the tune of millions. Robuchon does not have a dime invested in this restaurant. It is a franchise.
38
If Normand Laprise is against it, I'm against it. Chef Laprise, who, briefly had a restaurant here in NYC some time ago, is the premier advocate of establishing alliances between restaurants and farmers and other producers to guarantee quality and freshness. He invented so-called farm-to-table cuisine many years before that expression even existed.
24
Could not agree more. Montreal is not so far away - the NY, not to mention the Montreal food press would do well to re-aquaint themselves with Mr. Laprise. His Toque is every bit as vital as it was when it first appeared on the scene. He also "farms" himself on the Toque rooftop.
1