One Wine Glass to Rule Them All

Mar 16, 2017 · 156 comments
Sen (Dubai)
Glassware has taken new dimensions and even though crystal still holds the higher end albeit without lead - various new materials and designs have made its way from a wine bar to a fine dining. Exclusive to the hilt are the pewter but again not exclusively reserved for royalty but affordable also for the home bar. The collection at Bartechco is a step towards that direction making the royalty affordable.https://www.bartechco.com/collections/pewter-bar-accessories-glassware-tools
James Cawse (Pittsfield MA)
How does the stem FEEL when you are holding it? I have several sets of stemware - some Lalique and others from Venice- and their key virtues are elegantly clear bowls and splendidly tactile stems.
Kai Rabenstein (London, UK)
You failed to mention another important factor - wine glasses are often used to 'toast' the event (or wellbeing of a celebrant), and for this the solidity and ring tone of the glasses used is crucial ... this is the main - but not the only - reason why leaded glass has traditionally been used, as it gives a much richer tonal ring when glasses are 'clinked'. Lead glasses are also heftier, hence feel more substantial and are more resistant to breakage. While the majority of lead wine glasses tend to be 'cut' or decorated, some are available without (or with rather minimal) decoration: The example we have at home is the Waterford Crystal GEO range by John Rocha, now sadly no longer produced, although WC continue to offer other comparable ranges such as Siren and Flow. These glasses weigh roughly twice as much as a similarly sized crystalline (non-lead) glass and cost around $70 apiece.
Jim (New york,NY)
Zalto glasses are just magnificent and makes everything taste better!!!
Douglas (San Francisco)
Spiegelau Vino Grande Bordeaux. Best wine glasses for the price in my opinion. Our go to wine glass for both reds and whites. Less expensive than the comparable Riedel but with the same quality.
Patrick (Los Angeles)
I have Val St. Lambert Red and white wine glasses, flutes and sherry glasses, blown and hand cut. Extraordinary and elegant. I also have Baccarat red and white stems, very delicate and refined--classic shape, the way wine glasses should look, Platonic actually. But my favorite way to drink wine is from the acanthus pattern tumblers in fine (Polish?) crystal that the Metropolitan Museum shop used to sell. They have an easy elegance about them, and I wish the museum still stocked them. I've probably owned at least 50 over the years--kept replacing them when they broke--and am now down to the last 10, and use them only occasionally. I hope an MMA buyer reads this comment.
Frances (new York)
It has been fun to read this article and many of the comments. Lots of excellent advice, too.
paul (earth)
Great, another way for insufferable, snooty wine drinkers to be snooty.
Deborah Frost (NY NY)
Clearly, you did not read the piece.
Harry (Peru NY)
If you live in a household with dogs, cats, children, etc. you might reconsider stemless wine glasses.
Kate McGregor-Stewart (Los Angeles)
Why no pictures of the desirable glasses?
C (ND)
My fellow novice friend always has the urge to shake up a bottle of red wine before opening it. I tell him not to. Why? The best answer I can give is that so the sediments will stay at the bottom where they can be avoided.

But that seems like such an incomplete and unsatisfactory answer. If you were to first decant the wine leaving out some sediment, would it then be OK to shake up the wine?

If swirling improves the experience so much, could shaking (perhaps after opening to allow air into the mix) jump start the desired effect?

Explain it to me.
Philip (San Diego)
We use Riedel for both red and white wines. Unless my wife is out of town, when I use a cheap wine glass they gave away at a tasting room. I've broken too many Riedel glasses to even think about washing one again. And they aren't cheap. But the glass does make a big difference, so I try to keep her around all the time.
Paul (Washington)
Isn't swirling required by law? I can spend a half an hour swirling and smelling before the glass is finally consumed, so I need a good, non-slip stem. My wife thinks It's a fetish and it drives her nuts. She also refuses to spit at tastings.
Jackie (Houston, TX)
Wonderful article. I would only stand up for the occasional use of stemless glasses if you're relaxing with a good wine at home and your cats have free reign (which of course they do) to jump all over the place. I've sacrificed many stemmed glasses to feline indifference over the years!
ravi (Hong Kong)
I suggest you join a tasting to compare the impact that different shapes of glass have on the flavor of wine. The difference is dramatic and worth paying attention to when considering whether one glass works for all wine. I agree that for causal purposes using one universal glass makes sense but the different shapes really work if you want to truly appreciate good wine.
Dr D (Canada)
Insist that it be a blind tasting and that all the glasses come from the same line and manufacturer. You'll find that that dramatic difference disappears.
bernard (washington, dc)
My father, who inherited wine snobbery from his father, insisted on two things:
A wine glass should be uniformly thin as it reaches the top; it cannot have a slight thickening on its top edge.
The glass should produce a fine steady note when the top edge is rubbed with a moistened finger (the "glass harmonica" property).
Are these requirements another aspect of wine foolishness ("taste reminiscent of chocolate and raspberries"), or are they sensible?
A Business Owner (Los Angeles, CA)
A thick top edge completely changes the taste. Try serving the same wine in two glasses, one thick top edged and the other uniformly thin.

I doubt it will take you more than one second to note the difference.

Also of crucial importance is the serving temperature. I offered a blind tasting of five wines in identical glasses to a group of experienced wine drinkers. There was quick agreement that the wine in glass #3 was significantly better than any of the others,

All the glasses held the same wine at temperatures differing by one degree Celsius (abt 2F)...
Don (Georgia)
One reason for smaller white wine glasses is so that the wine stays cooler. If you pour a large amount of white wine in a glass, then it will warm before it is consumed - altering the taste. I also disagree that all glasses are the same for every wine. An Oregon Pinot Noir tastes much better from the glass designed for it and an old Bordeaux certainly flows better from heavy crystal instead of thin-rimmed glass.
Marie (Luxembourg)
I own (leadfree) wine glasses from the Essence collection from iittala, which I can truly recommend. Glass number 3 from the picture comes close.
Marie (Luxembourg)
This is meant as a reply to Barbara's comment from March 23.
Sigvarde (Vermont)
Riedel Vinum Riesling/Zinglasses currently available at Sierra Trading Post, 6 for $99, or $74 if you have one of STP's online DealFlyer coupons:
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/riedel-vinum-rieslingandzinfandel-wine-...

No I don't work for STP, I'm just a long-time fan.
Pat Summers (Lawrenceville, NJ)
OK, the Riedal glasses for us -- but what about RED wine? or are you saying the glass shown (w/ white wine in it) is multi-purpose/multi-wine?
ET (NY)
I really like Spiegelau glasses for everyday use- definitely more durable than Riedel.
I use these (regardless of the name) for white wine
https://www.amazon.com/Spiegelau-4720171-Salute-Glasses-Clear/dp/B00WYIL...

and these for red:
https://www.amazon.com/Spiegelau-4670180-Style-Burgundy-Glasses/dp/B00YB...
Jeffrey Kassel (New York)
Keep in mind that all glasses break. I was at a friend's house for Christmas, and a guest who had been drinking too much and was clumsy broke a Baccarat glass. It makes more sense to buy the Libby glasses and instead of worrying about the glasses enjoy the wine!
jfk66 (Washington DC)
At least they were using them. In the days of the cheap franc, I treated myself to some Baccarat champagne glasses. I eventually added wine glasses and water goblets to the collection. They are so valuable now I'm afraid to use them and I should just sell them.
Barbara (<br/>)
Can the wine glasses in the photograph at the top of this article be identifed?
Michael (Phoenix)
Libby has them in stock, or so the website suggests, but with $50 ! shipping! What gives, $50? Do you get a kiss with that?
jfk66 (Washington DC)
When I got married in 2003, my sister talked me into registering for Riedel wine glasses. I can't remember exactly which ones, but I picked one for red and one for white. I used them for a dinner party and a friend helping to clean up afterwards must have broken two or three just through normal hand washing. They just shattered. I put them away and never used them again, keeping to my less expensive but sturdier glasses I probably bought at Marshalls to take with me when I moved overseas. We live in a rented house in South Africa now where our landlord is providing all our kitchenware including glasses and this being a huge wine producing country, he supplied us with wine glasses for red, white and as they call it here, MCC (sparkling wine). They are well used in this land of wonderful (and well priced) wine.
Julia Shanks (Cambridge, MA)
You surprised me that you don't think the shape of the glass makes a difference! I attended a wine-glass class (sponsored by Riedel) where we tasted the same wines in different glasses -- from the standard Libbey Tulip to Riedel designed for different varietals. The difference was dramatic. I repeated the experiment at home with skeptical friends (who would admit to having less refined palates) and they too could taste a difference.
Dr D (Canada)
You'll doubtless remember that these were not blind tastings. Amazing isn't it, the power of suggestion?
Seneca (Rome)
There's more reverse snobbery going on here than when Marie Antoinette and her friends dressed down as peasants at the Petit Hameau. Yes, Italians drink wine out of a "juice" glass but they also drink wine out of a stemmed glass. Style occurs when you know when to do one and not the other. But to read some of the comments here you might be encouraged to drink your Barolo out of a dentist's spit cup. Resist the temptation. To drink wine out of even a Maille mustard jar is tres grossier. Wine drinking is a sensual act. Treat it as such.
Amelia P (Newton, MA)
The Libbey wine glasses are back in stock through the link in the article. Nice to have a versatile wine glass that can be used for whites and reds especially with limited kitchen storage.
Marie (Michigan)
In Italy, and in my home, fine wine and ordinary table wine are consumed from 6 ounce straight sided juice glasses filled about 2/3 full. I buy then at IKEA or target. Not precious, not twee, and the cats are disinclined to knock them over unlike the way that stemmed glasses seem to be cat-gravity-practice targets.
Mary Ann (Madawaska Lake, Maine)
Choosing a wine glass can be "fraught with anxiety." Truly a first world problem, if there ever was one!
Anna L (Ashland, OR)
Stems are an unattainable luxury for those of us with tiny apartments. Including many NTY readers.
MarieS (Colorado)
I get the storage issue, but you can always use stems for other beverages as well. My husband drinks milk and/or juice out of a "wine" glass at breakfast!
J Richard (Netherlands)
Forget the glasses. Save your money to buy the best bottle you can afford. Enjoy it with crusty bread. You won't forget it.
Phoebe (<br/>)
Over the years we've had many wine glasses (always stemware) at many price points. The current is my fave: the IKEA Ivrig red wine glass at $3.99 a piece which we use for everything. It is made in France and thus I hope not in slave-labor conditions.
nas (Western MA)
I second an earlier comment about seeking a good wine glass that fits in the dishwasher. There has been a trend toward making wine glasses ever taller. Given that one agrees with the basic premise, the overall height, not mentioned in the article, can be the deciding factor. Also, glasses do get broken steadily over a period of years. Buy double and keep half as replacements.
Sandra (CA)
My daughter-in-law loves the stemless glasses for that reason- they fit in dishwasher. I find it hard to wrap my fingers around the glass, but her point, and yours, are well taken.
Mark NOVAK (Ft Worth, TX)
I tend to agree with most of the article with the exception of champagne. Sparkling wine needs the minimize surface area of the flute to last longer IMHO.
Carol Schmidt (Minnesota)
I refuse to purchase from anything the Reidel company because of their disingenuous marketing campaign "tongue map". There are other companies, e.g. Lenox, which have splendid wine glasses and do not need to resort to such nonsense.
speede (Etna, NH)
If your nose was as big as mine, you might not be so happy with a narrow-topped glass. It may amplify the nose of the wine, but it collides with the nose of the face. To drain the wine you must drink like a pigeon, beak to the sky.
drkanner (undefined)
Stemmed wine glasses and dishwashers are a poor fit. Awkward placement, frequent breakage. By contrast, an appropriate sized and shaped stemless glass (aka goblet) is readily placed in the dishwasher and emerges sparkling clean and intact. Everything else is commentary.
Steve (Sullivan County, NY)
Yes stemless are awkward to hold but why do stemmed glasses have to be so tall ? I use very short stemmed glasses which we find to be ideal, being more stable and easier to handle and clean. Unfortunately they are also generally extremely hard to find. Perhaps manufacturers should begin to look into this as an untapped market niche to satisfy the happy medium.
JanLP (Northern California)
For very short stems (and stackable too) see "Eddy" glasses at Crate and Barrel.
Anne Lewis (<br/>)
My wine glasses are from the thrift store and not in a trendy, hipster kind of way. I think my entire set of about 10 glasses, an eclectic mix but mostly Bordeaux-ish, cost $5.

Still, this was a useful primer on wine glasses. Furthermore, I am inspired to add to my Wine Goals to drink out of a $60+ glass just so I can 1) say that I did it and 2) see what it's like.
jg (Staten Island)
Similarly, when I am enjoying a nice single malt scotch, I'm picky about the glass, and I'd bet most other scotch enthusiasts employ a modicum of discretion with what they're drinking it out of. Wrong glass diminishes the experience. Probably just a matter of personal preference, but I don't like it when I'm served a scotch in a snifter, and will specifically ask a bar tender to deploy a rocks glass. And yes, as far as the rocks go, I'll take one or two cubes.
Alex (NY)
We came across the Zalto Universal wine glasses while dining at Boulud Sud. The are fantastic wine glasses. We only have 2 and don't share them with guests!
sissifus (Australia)
I have about 20 stemmed wine glasses. All lovely, and all different, not a set. That's because I buy them as single items in thrift shops, for less than a dollar. And when some break, as they do, it is not sad, but an opportunity to browse a thrift shop again. And my favourite red wines, which I decant properly, taste the same out of any of the glasses. I am way too clumsy to hold them safely by the stem. The dishwasher gets rid of the fingerprints.
Jane Fennessy (Brooklyn)
Did anyone try the wine glasses from Ikea? better than plastic or paper.
proffexpert (Los Angeles)
I hate the wine glasses that hit your nose.
Boris F. (USA)
Sharing: Just before or sometime before X-mas stop at TJ Max or Home Store at Marshals and load up on about 3 or 4 sets inexpensive ones, fancy ones and that will cover all your needs and will save you money
apparatchik (Kennesaw GA)
Thanks for a common sense article. I have the Riedel Vinum Cabernet and Chardonnay glasses. Over time, I just naturally gravitated to the Cabs for everything. So happy to know I was unconsciously smart.
SmartenUp (US)
Glass?

Mine is imprinted: "Fred Flintstone..."
Rich (Minnesota)
Thank you for these eminently sensible thoughts.

We have some smallish stems that we use to enjoy wine without getting snockered. They hold a total of 8 oz. and we typiically serve 3 oz.

We have a few quirky things - horns for mead that we use for the novelty. Champagne Flutes that were given to us as gifts and never used.

And then there's the horror of horrors. The Elijjah's cup at our seder. A big, red Avon Glass goblet, that is filled from each guest's glass near the end of the seder. Note that each of our guests has brought their own wine, so the final mix will be a blend of reds and whites, dry and sweet, wine and juice.
Allan Bowdery (<br/>)
IKEA, all purpose glass, two dollars apiece (or at least they were a couple years ago)
brian kennedy (pa)
Will the repeal of Obamacare have an impact on wine glasses?
Marty (Santa Barbara,CA)
Everyone will drink more whether it's covered or not!
Chief Cali (Port Hueneme)
Thanks for the great insight and help. We too had a wine glass cupboard that was getting crowded. Went to find the Luigi Boromilio at a local kitchen store that sends us 20% discounts. Have to admit we enjoy white and red in them.
Nothing better than having a glass to enjoy with conversation and a meal in the making at the end of the day.
Chief
Diane (Ohio)
I pull out the stemless when my friends with varying levels of blindness visit. Actually, one of them bought a set for me for my birthday!
Tom (Land of the Free)
Pooh pooh. Ikea glasses are perfectly priced and perfectly designed, you can collect all the various sets for the cost of a single set promoted (shamelessly!) by the NYT's sister site.

I trot them all out for parties, they make for an impressive array on the table, no one can tell they're inexpensive, and if they break, I just go and stock up some more.
jwillmann (Tucson, AZ)
To quote that great wine philosopher "Stick" McGhee:

I've got a nickel, have you got a dime
Let's get together and get a little wine
Some by the fifth
And some by the quart
Oh when you're buying sherry, now you're doing things smart

Drinkin' wine spo-dee-o-dee, drinkin' wine, bop ba
Wine spo-dee-o-dee, drinkin' wine, bop ba
Wine spo-dee-o-dee, drinkin' wine, bop ba
Pass that bottle to me
JPH (USA)
Once in an American house of a dentist for a boy birthday party,the host brought a bottle of white wine for the parents and served it in plastic cups saying it had been offered to him recently.
I thought it looked kind of yellowish...and I tasted it ...!
I looked at everybody sipping like if it was Pinot grigio...and went straight to the bottle and turned the label towards me.
It was Chateau Eyquem !
pc (paris)
it is indeed an unforgettable wine
Jann (Seattle)
Good work, Eric -- the Libbey all-purpose glasses are sold out. Everywhere. And I was so ready to buy . . . .
Jean (Holland Ohio)
But other Libbey glasses are also good! And comparable price.
Jean (Holland Ohio)
Libbey has several other models, that also allow the great aeration.
Glennmr (Planet Earth)
The best wine glass is the one that has wine in it....
Butch Burton (Atlanta)
Once while traveling to Portland OR, met a young lady who worked as a buyer for Macy's. We started talking about food in SF where I lived at the time. Well she said she would make dinner for me. Before dinner she proudly showed me her pricey crystal wine glasses and I asked her what she was going to pour into them. When I saw Macy's el cheapo private label red wine. I said where is the nearest wine store and bought a couple of bottles of nice Napa Cab.

To me the absolutely wrong glass is to drink champagne from the glass shaped like Marie Antoniette's breast - was in wine business for several years and we called those the vernacular for breast glasses. The reason you want flutes is to see the bubbles. If they are big like foot balls - then you have awful plastic finished sparkling wine - get something else to drink.

Have over 12 dozen wine glasses - they get me invited to lots of wine/dinner parties - also bring lots of wine!
Nina (<br/>)
I use the Spiegelau Vino Grande Bordeaux wine glasses; about $50 for 4 on Amazon. I got tired of the snob factor about Riedel glassware.

After years of chipped rims I always wash my wine glasses by hand & immediately dry them & put them away.
Susan (Boulder)
Yes! I hate stemless, especially for wines needing cooler temperatures - but also because I can't stand the smeary fingerprints!
I have an "everyday" set that are more Bordeaux than the one Eric picked - because it is nice glass, no thickened rim to sip from, and fits in the dishwasher. These cost more than, say, Target, but the balloon shape has kept the glass from shattering more than once, which is a bonus. We use these most of the time, for all wines except fizz. I like the bubbles in a flute.
We do have other, fancier glasses (from gifts, souvenirs from a parent's trip to Venice, etc.), but those only come out on holidays ... and sometimes not then, depending on how much handwashing I don't feel like doing.
One set is really all you need. And for me, if it won't go in the dishwasher, then why bother?
NDanger (Napa Valley, CA)
I've conducted wine tastings at Napa wineries for over 15 years. The quality of the glass you use makes a big difference, especially for more nuanced wines. That's not "snobbery", it is demonstrably true. That said, if the glass has a cut rim, a stem and is appropriately sized (+/- 20 oz) you're about 90% there. Many tasting rooms here use Riedel Vinum or Vinum Extremes. And yes, they do get broken, but it's a small price to pay for greater enjoyment of every glass of wine you drink!
Sera Stephen (The Village)
Thanks for an informed and egalitarian view on the subject. Just a couple of points from personal experience. I fine glass will have a fine sound. For the pan-sensory experience that we all seek that’s a nice touch.

The second point for me is a crisp rim with no bead. That’s where glass craftsmanship begins. I also believe that space is luxury, and a large glass fill a third of the way seems far more elegant than a small one filled to the top.

As for the stem, it is, as you say, for the temperature, not the fingerprints, because the opposite holds true, (literally, here), for the Brandy snifter, which is held by the bowl for the same reason, and the opposite effect.

All of that is well and good, but my most memorable wine drinking experience was a night watching the full moon rise, with ———-. We had no glasses at all and even had to push the cork into the bottle to access the wine. But the night was young, and so were we. I remember that the wine was delicious. We didn't miss the glasses. You know, after a night of passion do you remember the brand of the sheets?
Emma S (<br/>)
I'm surprised nobody mentioned Gabriel Glas. I personally prefer them to the Zalto range, they work with all sorts of wine, and they come in an affordable machine or nicer mouth-blown versions.
David McNiff (Ithaca NY)
Thanks for debunking the Reidel claims. Nice to have an expert confirm my own scepticism.
Christopher Hawtree (Hove, Sussex, England)
Glad to find that I have been doing the right thing all along. A question not addressed in the article, however, is the vexed one of washing glasses. Should this be done by hand? Can they be left to dry themselves? Or is it a task for the dishwasher?
DAM1 (Acton, MA)
Of course, clicking on your least expensive Libbey URL reveals they're out of stock. Could you select something that's actually available?
Solomon (Washington dc)
Let me add
The base has to be large enough to give stability but small enough to fit into the wine glass rack. There is nothing as painful as a spilled glass of good red wine.
FRONTINE LeFEVRE (TENNESSEE)
I have always thought that there was NO difference between a "stemless wine glass" and a jelly jar. Glad to see I'm not the only sceptic.
Marc Picquendar (Sunnyvale CA)
In the long run, what is really important is a good wine glass replacement strategy.
Alan (Rochester ny)
Eric also misses people's preference for either a cut rim or rolled edge rim. I prefer a rolled edge rim because it seems this edge discourages an errant drop from sliding down the outside of the glass. After all, nearly all other drinking glasses have a rolled-edge rim and this is no accident. But for some reason, the more expensive the wine glass, the more likely it is to have a square cut rim. Which is why thrift store glasses are the way to go because the more wine you drink, the more chance you will break a glass!
mrsg (Boston)
My friends and I love to drink wine in the living room while hanging out, with hors d'oeuvres or just chips. But with only cocktail tables, end tables and trays to hold them, stemware rapidly becomes too fiddly and unstable. So we've been using stemless glasses, the squattier the better. We do love doing the high pinky thing at the table, but we've found the stemless glasses help us to relax and enjoy our wine, which is what it's really all about.
The Middle-Aged Answerwoman (NYC/SF/BOS)
My favorite glass for sparkling wine is one that is round and wide on top of an hollow narrow stem. The wine goes into the stem and the bubbles float all the way up and then around the glass.
Stephen Miller (Oakland)
Reverse snobbery? Breaking the "rules" is not the same as enforcing them. If stemless proponents were to go so far as to say that wine MUST be served in a stemless glass, you might have something, but I don't think that is what's going on.

So far as I'm concerned, stemless glasses are superior. The elevation of wine temperature is all to the good (if you like your wine cool, then put it in the glass chilled), and hand/finger smudges are minor compared to mouth marks on a glass. Putting your hand directly on the bowl heats the volatiles up and, in the case of good wine or brandy, enhances the experience.
My inexpensive ($20/4), 700ml Bordeaux is a great, all-purpose glass for any time you want a lot of fluid. It's aperture is large enough for my ample nose to cohabit with my mouth while drinking. I can pour an entire 22 oz. bomber of my favorite beer or 4 oz. of a smoky Cab and be in heaven either way.

Stems are poor handles but perhaps the best reason to go stemless is that stems make clumsiness more disastrous. If you like them, be my guest, but don't look down at the shorter glasses.
Jean (Holland Ohio)
As long as they are proportioned in Way that allows good aeration of the wine!
Max (Willimantic, CT)
Mr. Asimov's writing is rare, even in this newspaper. One followed other articles to this wine glass article. Of all, only Mr. Asimov's sentences require no remediating reader-editing and do not require guessing what he is trying to say. He is not trying. He is saying. Clarity, terrific in wine glasses, is as appreciable in writing.
Texas Liberal (Austin, TX)
A decade or more ago, I ran across Spiegelau St.Claire Bordeaux glass at Bevmo, beautiful crystal, equal to the best Riedel -- at a quarter the price! Bought them for myself, more as wedding presents.

Then, a few years later: Tried to buy more. But . . . nothing. After some research, found they had been bought by Riedel -- and the glass discontinued! I just checked, see now that they are available -- but at triple the price I paid.
Eater (UWS)
It's a shame neither this article nor the "thesweethome" review bothered to note that Spiegelau and Riedel are the same company and Riedel was losing share to Spiegelau due both to price and Spiegelau's durability advantage.

I've owned and used both brands (and others) for many years. The Spiegelau glasses are a touch heavier than Riedels, but the convenience of never having broken in the dishwasher or when in use outweighs the slight weight disadvantage. This is huge in practice and outweighs theory.

The Spiegelau Authentis Bordeaux glass is our everyday glass for all wines white, red, rose and including sparklers and Jerez (sherries). I've even served Negronis in them.

P.S. Surprisingly, neither article mentioned "tasting glasses." For pure wine tastings, the Spiegelau Expert glass is wonderful. http://www.spiegelau.com/products/glass-collections/l/special-glasses-ta...
Bob Brown (Ventura County, Calif.)
We've learned -- the hard way -- that it's best to wash our wine glasses when we're sober. Our current full set is in its seventh year.
Sera Stephen (The Village)
Thanks for an informed and egalitarian view on the subject.

Just a couple of points from personal experience.

I fine glass will have a fine sound. For the pan-sensory experience that we all seek that’s a nice touch.

The second point for me is a crisp rim with no bead. That’s where glass craftsmanship begins.

I also believe that space is luxury, and a large glass fill a third of the way seems far more elegant than a small one filled to the top.

As for the stem, it is, as you say, for the temperature, not the fingerprints, because the opposite holds true, (literally, here), for the Brandy snifter, which is held by the bowl for the same reason, and the opposite effect.

All of that is well and good, but my most memorable wine drinking experience was a night watching the full moon rise, with ———-. We had no glasses at all and even had to push the cork into the bottle to access the wine. But the night was young, and so were we. I remember that the wine was delicious. We didn't miss the glasses. You know, after a night of passion do you remember the brand of the sheets?
inkydrudge (Bluemont, Va.)
"Corkscrew aside, a stemmed glass is the only indispensable piece of equipment needed"
Indeed no. Years ago I bought an AhSo, that cork puller with two straight fingers that you push down around the cork and then pull out with a twisting motion. It works a lot better than a corkscrew on the compound and synthetic corks we find so often, doesn't fragment true cork, and is entertaining for those guests who have not seen one before and want to know why it's called an AhSo. I haven't seen the old corkscrew for years.
Paul (Arizona)
Don't forget nice crystal glasses are a pain to wash... Most crystal is not dishwasher safe as well.

I enjoy having a set of flutes for sparkling (minimize surface area for bubbles to escape) and a set for still white/red wines, no matter the grape. The key to a good wine glass is certainly a function of elegance and quality, but also convenience.
toniomaran (San Francisco)
I prefer Burgundy stemware for almost any special wine. It is not snobbery to drink out of a hand blown stem; they are certainly too fragile for regular use but they are so light and thin, aesthetically, a joy.
ws (Köln)
"Similarly, German riesling is often served in ( small, narrow glasses with a slight flair (linked)) outward."

Really?

I´ve never seen a glass like this before.

Normally Riesling is served in glasses like the "Riedel Zinfandel/Riesling Grand Cru" or similar. It´s a perfect choice.

Look at glasses on the prepared tables for VDP "Grosse Gewächse 2015 Vorpremiere" in Wiesbaden last year.

http://blog.gute-weine.de/fileadmin/user_upload/Deutschland/VDP_GG_2015_...

This is a "German (dry) Riesling and some Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) high-end-event for invited professional guests." 6 All-purpose-glasses and one "Red wine glass per participant are used exclusively.
So why not invited amateurs "like you and me" should not us the same glasses? There is no use to be more catholic than the pope.

Pinot gris/blanc or Müller-Thurgau will also not react allergically when served in these glasses.

When it comes to sparkling wines I disagree for physical reasons. Narrow flutes make sense to stem the continous loss of gas in the glass. Less surface - less loss.

To say it somewhat cynical: It´s preferable to invest in wine bottles than trying to maximise an extensive collection of wine glasses.
Edward (Vermont)
Grape wine in a Mason jar
Homemade and brought to school
By a friend of mine 'n' after class
Me and him and this other fool decide that we'll drink up what's left
Chug-a-lug, so we helped ourself
First time for everything
Mm, my ears still ring
Chug-a-lug, chug-a-lug
Make you want to holler hi-de-ho
Burns your tummy, don'tcha know
Chug-a-lug, chug-a-lug
--Roger Miller
Rea Tarr (Malone, NY)
I went to buy something from a dollar store for a neighbor the other day, and discovered very large, heavy, smooth and nicely proportioned stemmed glasses made in Colombia (I think.) Bought six of them. For $1 each, no kidding.

Now my cats can knock them over every night and I won't scream so much.
Thomas Viele (Houston, TX)
I enjoy Eric's column regularly. But I think he is quite wrong here. We became convinced after a two hour tasting, by Riedel, using four of their glasses (plus an "ISO glass", a neutral). True, most people are not going to buy two or three white wine glasses and another two or three for reds. But a good white in a Bordeaux glass will lack much of its character, or change its balance (cheaper ones it does not matter so much). And Pinot in a Bordeaux glass is just a disappointment in most cases. Skeptical ? Try it side by side. We did after the tasting, at home.
js (boston)
Should you have a brandy snifter for brandy or cognac - these are wines too.
BoJonJovi (Pueblo, CO)
I use a short stem cognac glass for my wine. The shape is right, it reduces my angst of tipping a top-heavy glass, its center of gravity is low, and it fits nicely and comfortably in the dishwasher. In other words, it is a good wine glass that requires no special treatment. It is not the tall, slender, elegant lady you always knew you never had a chance with.
Marty (Santa Barbara,CA)
Sweet
Jon b (<br/>)
Whatever you do, if using crystal stemware, once your finished enjoying, just give a quick rinse under the faucet and sit on the counter until you are in a better position to wash them the next day. Learned that the hard way too many times!
HJR (<br/>)
Tend to agree with most of the article and the comments. Re a single purpose glass, the best I ever encountered were a conical design at a Frescobaldi restaurant in Firenze. The listed Zalto is similar but the ones I recall had a broader base to the bowl and a steeper angle towards a narrower opening at the top. Hard to find ones such as these but grab some if you see them. Re sparkling wines, were have all the "tulips" gone? This is an excellent shape as it is tall and narrow to allow the bubbles to rise nicely but the bowl first widens and then narrows toward the top to concentrate the aroma.
Mel (Dallas)
Usage dictates the shape and style of the wine glass. Cocktail parties and formal dinners call for thin crystal glasses with tall, fragile stems, the kind that, if broken by the maid will result in the forfeiture of a week’s salary. For picnics the best is the six ounce plastique removable stem stacking wine glass, 4 to the package at Le Store Dollar. Snobs.
Mindways (New Hampshire)
The traditional, stemmed wine glass follows the time tested formula for luxury items. It is hard to make, easy to break, difficult to maintain (hand wash) and more expensive than the alternative. At the extremes, we find the "balloon" and the flute, the stiletto heels of the wine world. If stemless glasses are the "epitome of reverse snobbery", I can only conclude that stemmed glasses represent snobbery. Are we really worried about the warmth from our hands ? I'm sticking with stemless glasses.
Peters43 (El Dorado, KS)
We have two sets of stemless glasses, one from Pier 1 (about $2 each) and the other from Bormioli: https://shop.luigibormioli.com/products/atelier-cabernet-stemless. The latter are lovely. light and very flattering to any wine. The former get used every day.
Patricia (KCMO)
I agree. I love my stemless glasses.

Everyone I know holds their stemmed glass by the bowl, anyway, so the temperature argument goes away.
Mack Lipkin (Manhattan)
Right conclusion given the test done but was it the most critical test? When we have an higher complexity older red, we try a bit in a Riedel Zinfandel glass, a medium Cabernet glass and a big Bordeaux glass. The difference can be extraordinary in aromas and flavors. It is hard to predict which will be optimal for a given bottle. In contrast younger and smaller wines can be worsened by too large a glass as their unpleasant qualities are revealed. Our approach is try several glass options for good wine or Scotch.
Ken (49837)
While I do enjoy using proper glassware, I have found great amusement in drinking fine beers and wines out of a coffee mug. The expressions I see from my guests can be quite entertaining!
Chris (Melbourne Australia)
Thank you for this clear and eminently logical article. Our kitchen wineglass cupboard has instantly become large enough.
I have to confess that I was recently moved to buying a set of stemless glasses, motivated by a friend who seems to know a lot more about wine than me. At least they are easy to stack in the dishwasher.
I do think the enjoyment of a special champagne is enhanced by a nice cut glass crystal flute though, preferably shared with only one other.
David (Philadelphia)
Many people, as they get older, develop tremors or after mild strokes have difficulty with eye hand coordination. I have noticed that glass stemware is particularly vulnerable to spills and breaks in these situations. Plastic, stemless wine glasses greatly decrease breakage and spills with minor loss of the wine's flavor -- at least at the quality level my wife and I can afford.
Joe (Raleigh, NC)
I agree with David. And even those without tremors, or their guests, will break a glass at some time. Always there's danger of glass shards on the floor. Do you have a dog or a cat? They can't articulate the pain from a shard. Small, attractive teacups are fine for wine IMHO.
PJTramdack (New Castle, PA)
I agree. I am 68, and for one reason or another have knocked a number of stemmed glasses over on side tables in recent years, sometimes just reaching for it. I find that the traditional French bistro wineglass or tumbler ("picardie" ) is a solid and reliable solution: https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81h6MnxAfDL._SL1500_.jpg

Believe me, for $10 plonk, it does't matter what glass you guzzle it from. Tastes fine and does the job
Jeff (<br/>)
A great practical alternative to the Zalto Universals is the Intenso line of glasses by Luigi Bormioli.

They are the same shape as the Zalto Universals, but use a more durable glass. I often see them used in higher-end restaurants, because they survive the handling. About 1/4 the price as well.
John Brady (<br/>)
At the rate that I break glasses buying expensive ones is totally out of the question. I always use sturdy cheap glasses and while i like stemware using tumblers is comfortable. Even the occasional use of a plastic (god forbid!) vessel may happen. But no matter the wine needs to be the star.
Carter Nicholas (Charlottesville)
Hold on to your resistance to stemless glasses in wine. Even firms as impeccably well bred as Puiforcat are now presenting wine tumblers, alongside a small range of intelligent classics. I won't repeat your reasons -- they are the urgent, soundest ones -- but I will add, the delight in the elevation of color and aroma from the tabletop. This is not necessary for coffee, but a table well dressed with flickers of highlighted natural fruit tones is indispensable to pleasure.
Jacques (NYC)
When in complete agreement with Mr Asimov on this subject, I'd like to add two points to the discussion:

First, we must not overlook the "tactile" qualities of the glass (feel, weight. balance).

Then, often enough, the glass that we are accustomed to is probably the best one to use.

I'll note here, that we've been using the Riedel Vimum collection at home for the past 20 years with sets of at least a dozen each of 8 or 9 different styles. However, those are now only used for formal dinner parties for 8 in the dining room. The rest of the time, whether we are by ourselves or have a few friends at home, our go to glass is the Riedel Ouverture Magnum which is used daily for all varietals, water, beer, and even orange juice. Should I mention that our teenage daughter uses them to drink milk?

It simply does the job: "One Glass to Rule Them All"!
Marie (Luxembourg)
I disagree with Eric, there is only one right glass for Champagne and that is the flute, anytime, anywhere. Sometimes I reward myself with a piccolo bottle of Champagne, sitting on my sofa in old clothes, watching TV - no special occasion - but never would I drink this heavenly juice from any other glass than a flute.
Apart from this, I collect glasses like other people collect sneakers or stamps or whatever and my favourite wine glasses are the Essence collection from iittala.
Ben C. (Brooklyn, NY)
I agree, as it is the best glass through which to watch tiny bubbles rise.
Christian Wurster (Berlin, Germany)
I disagree with your disagreement, Marie :) There a lots of (more complex) champagnes (Charles Dufour for example) which need a lot of air so a universal glass is almost always the best choice!
Marie (Luxembourg)
Dear Christian,
The more complex champagnes are not in my price class :-)
For the mainstream, tulip would still be acceptable. Prost.
Blake (<br/>)
I have some decent Riedel glasses, but day-to-day I use the freebies that I get from tastings at some wineries. The Uncork New York glasses from some of the Finger Lake places are an example. They are associated with good memories, they fit in my dish washer, and if one breaks, who cares.
Pepper Turner (Sonoma County, CA)
Let's face it, desperate times may call for paper, plastic, or a lowly mason jar vs. drinking straight out of the bottle. However, over the years I've discovered that drinking wine is so much more about the experience: beautiful food; golden hour of sun or twinkling candlelight; friends and loved ones; conversation; sparkling wine glasses ready to host that perfect Pinot or luscious Cab.

We prefer 3 shapes and I usually set the table with all three (not counting flutes). Stems for us are a must. Swirling profusely is also a must.

However, we have friends who prefer stemless. We don't judge. There's no judging. A great wine can hold its own even from a Dixie Cup. I just prefer to put mine in something deserving of the time and effort it took to get from bud break to my gleaming, swirling, happy, glass. Cheers!
DR (New England)
I envy your friends. You sound like a great person to enjoy wine with.
John (San Francisco, CA)
I appreciate the modern remorselessness of this article about getting the number of glasses you use down to - just one type.

However, anyone familiar with fine - especially antique American cut glass - crystal quickly falls in love with its various sizes, shapes, and designs. All of which, according to this article, have little to no effect on the taste of the wine.

Good crystal is lovely to look at, use, and enjoy. Part of the fun of drinking. Find out about it.
FRONTINE LeFEVRE (TENNESSEE)
The nice thing about good crystal is that you can buy it at "Goodwill" for as little as 50 cents a stem. It's out of fashion. I have bought Waterford with the labels still on - donated by modern brides who don't want to be thought "elitest".
E Holland (Jupiter FL)
I am a stem snob. To me, wine means a stem glass, not only for the holding and the drinking but for the way they look on the table. My main criteria are comfort in the hand, a bowl not too large, a stem not too long, something that feels comfortable to hold and most importantly fits in the dishwasher without hitting the top or having the bowl retain dishwasher water. Even after dishwashing, there is sometimes a residue of lipstick or lip gloss, so that really should be cleaned off by hand before loading glasses into the machine.
Joe Hahnenfeld (Eugene Oregon)
I prefer two sets of glasses - the Riedel Riesling glass and a larger glass for Pinots. I recently rented a house on the coast and searched for wine glasses. In the cabinet labeled wine glasses, there were a dozen glasses but no wine glasses. I was a little perturbed that this place did not supply wine glasses when I realized those items in that cabinet were the 'trendy' stemless glasses. I immediately went out to a store a purchased some real wine glasses with stems!
Paul (Ocean, NJ)
Another excellent article by Eric. Aside from the merits of a stemmed wine glass, I was always puzzled by all the different shapes of the glass and there supposed affect on the nose and palate. I tried them all and could not detect a diiferance in aroma and taste. I have long ago settled on one set as described by Eric and my focus is on the pleasure, or not, of the wine rather then the glass.
Jonathan Eells (Ventura, CA)
Each of my three children's births was occasioned by the gift of a sterling silver baby cup - about 6 ounces volume - perfect for wine and generous for a single malt! I drink exclusively out of these, depending on which one most has merited my compensatory behavior, or, in the case of my youngest little ray of sunshine, just because a dram tastes better in a silver cup of joy engraved with her name.
Joseph (Ile de France)
As a fan of single malt scotch as well as wine, I find a general bordeaux style glass (not an oversized one) is best for any type of scotch too. I've got an eclectic mix of glasses right now due to the fact that my sets of four have mostly lost one or two over the years so I get to play around with different types but most evenings I reach for the Vinum Cab glass or Vinum Pinot (which has an elegant and attractive shape that is pleasing to look at)
Bill McGrath (Arizona)
I've been making this argument for years. I own some of the mid-priced Riedels in a couple of sizes. They suffice for all the wines we drink: whites, reds, blush, and ports. The business of all these different shaped glasses is crazy. It depends on a couple of questionable assumptions: that each variation of shape has a meaningful impact on the sensory aspects of the wine, and that someone exists who has made the almighty determination that this putative distinction is tailored to the varietal for which is was specifically designed. Hooey!

And oh how fragile are these finest of vessels? Anyone who drinks wine regularly knows that some breakage is inevitable. I'd be a lot happier breaking a $15 glass than one costing $59. After a minimum level of quality is met, the rest is snobbery. I'd rather spend the difference on the contained liquid.

Now, where is my Le Creuset tire-bouchon?
Aaron (Houston)
Bill: Not to nit-pick, but I hope you meant to say you would be 'a lot less sad' breaking a $15 glass, rather than 'a lot happier...'! Yes, I do know what you intended with the comment, just brought a smile on a gloomy Friday imagining someone thinking, "I'm going to make myself very happy by breaking this glass, it's only $15!"
FRONTINE LeFEVRE (TENNESSEE)
Try a Monopol korkenzieher. Far superior to anything ever produced in France.
Dr D (Canada)
And don't forget the ridiculous assumption for this to work that all faces are identical. Otherwise how could all that careful channeling to just the right part of the mouth/nose work?
Incontinental (Earth)
I have many sets of glasses all around the house. I need weak glasses to work on the computer, and strong glasses to read tiny print. I want to be able to walk into a room and have a pair of glasses in reach wherever I sit. I need glasses to read the labels on the remote buttons, for example, because I can't remember among all the remotes which button does what without reading its label, and I've ruined more than one important recording with the wrong button.

For wine, though, I'm using a tumbler because it doesn't tip over, and it goes in the dishwasher. However, I do love good wine glasses (usually the Burgundy type, which I've noticed is used more widely by restaurants than the Bordeaux type), whenever I go to a nice restaurant. Makes me feel like the 3x price uplift makes the whole experience special.
Peter Czipott (San Diego)
So much of the wine-glass experience is colored by conditioning that objective evaluation of "performance" --beyond the general desiderata as presented by Mr. Asimov -- as an enhancer of the olfactory and gustatory qualities of the wine is nearly impossible. There's no good way to do a blind (let alone a double-blind) test of the glass, since you see the glass you're handling. Doing it blindfolded would lead to accidents as one mis-estimates the height and width of the glass -- and once you've successfully raised a glass to your lips and used it, you can pretty much tell its shape, even blindfolded. The argument in favor of an all-purpose, stemmed glass seems pretty unassailable to me, and the Riede-style arguments in favor of varietal-specific shapes strike me as specious marketing talk.
E (New York)
if one's objective is to find out which glass suits them better or which they have a preference for taste or the way it feels or looks

as long as the price is not revealed it seems like a worthy endeavor
I for one have long given up chasing expensive new grape specific glass styles in favour for the Bordeaux style (and yes the ones in target)
Brian Ellerbeck (New York)
For what it's worth, I'm a fan of the Williams-Sonoma Estate Cabernet glasses. Elegant shape, capacious but not large, similar to the Zalto Denk'Art glasses at about one third of the price. I know, W-S is the home of overpricing, but these retail at a little over $20 per glass.
marino777 (CA)
maybe i'm just a Virgo snob - but it grosses me out when i see peoples wine glasses covered by a bunch of smudgy yukky fingerprints -
i believe the stem is there for many reasons.......
Pbilsky (Manchester VT)
Well said. I agree wholeheartedly. We have a perfectly good set that we bought at Target for around $20 for four. We have a magnificent set of Bacarrat from our wedding which we break out or special wines. Same taste. Much nicer glasses. PB
Tundra Green (Guadalajara, Mexico)
I freely admit to having no class. I drink wine out of recycled small 200 ml mustard jars. When I open a bottle, I decant it into 4 jars, cap thee of them for the following three days, and enjoy one mustard jar a day, a quarter bottle. The jars are slightly smaller at the top so they "channel aromas upward to the nose". I have a set of real wine glasses. It started with 8 glasses, I have three left. The mustard jars rarely break and if they do, I have an essentially infinite supply since I like mustard.
BD (Ridgewood)
This made me laugh very hard especially in relation to the reverence given in the article.
Tatum (Allentown, PA)
This is brilliant! Particularly if, like me, you are the only one in your house that drinks wine!
Robin (New England)
For picnics (les picniques), or other outside tippy type eating, we have a set of glass yogurt containers from France. They too ' channel aromas ', are stable, durable, easy to clean, and cost nothing, if you accept that the value is in the yogurt. I guess I freely admit to having even less class.
chefjune (<br/>)
Interesting observations. I remember at a Riedel tasting class the leader said they thought the Tempranillo glass was the best if one were to have just one wine glass. It wasn't all that different from a Bordeaux glass, but it was a little smaller.

Personally I prefer Burgundy glasses for Pinot Noir and also for white Burg/Chardonnay.
Ross (<br/>)
I think this misses the point a bit on the champagne. The reality is that most sparking wine is not really all that good as wine goes. The point is the bubbles. The flute preserves the bubbles while spraying the nose and the coupe sprays the whole face.

Good quality glasses make wine better. Different shapes have different, not necessarily better or worse, effects on the experience. Glasses are as much a personal preference as a choice of wine. Even wine drunk out of pottery wine glasses or even a coffee mug can still be quite enjoyable.
E (New York)
you are drinking the wrong sparkling wine and champagne, these are some of the most exciting wines today. In champagne they say it's a wine first bubbles second the bigger glass reveals more of the local characteristics specific to the grower and region
heartsleeve (delaware)
Ok, Eric, with all that build-up, I expected you to rate the glasses like you usually rate the wines... so, we just go for the all-purpose shape???
Martha (Brooklyn)
Click on the "Read the Review" feature.
Michael Sklaroff (Poughkeepsie NY)
As my girlfriend - and resident wine maven noted - "When was the last time you held a wine glass by the stem?" We use stemless tumblers.
chefjune (<br/>)
every day!
Matthew (NJ)
ONLY by the stem!!
Rea Tarr (Malone, NY)
Holding the glass by the stem -- and not cupping the bowl, please! -- is easy (if you have a working hand.)

Those who don't know how, signal their ignorance. You may not care about that, of course.