Oh, Pete Wells, how I love your reviews! But only two stars? If this is the best brisket that you have ever eaten, as you seem to imply, it would stand to reason that you would give Franklin's at least three stars. Or are we looking at overall experience here, such as the wait, the hand pies, and the other meats? Or perhaps you are leaving room for BBQ that is yet to be tasted?
1
I look forward to your reviews and this one was no exception. Thank you Mr. Wells.
From a 'real' Texan to NYT readers:
Instead of the line, head to Hutchins BBQ in McKinney, TX for the best brisket, ribs and other stuff in Texas and maybe the world.
Franklins doesn't compare in any measure to the quality and flavor of Hutchins in McKinney...
Instead of the line, head to Hutchins BBQ in McKinney, TX for the best brisket, ribs and other stuff in Texas and maybe the world.
Franklins doesn't compare in any measure to the quality and flavor of Hutchins in McKinney...
1
Why only two stars? If this place produces the very best brisket, then it deserves the highest ratings. Or is the rule that you have to be fancy and expensive to get that third or fourth star?
I use brisket a lot at home -- boiled beef, pot roast and home-cured corned beef. My big secret is that I use only the fattier half of the brisket -- sometimes called the point tip or deckle half -- not the flat half, which is typically more expensive but has less flavor.
I use brisket a lot at home -- boiled beef, pot roast and home-cured corned beef. My big secret is that I use only the fattier half of the brisket -- sometimes called the point tip or deckle half -- not the flat half, which is typically more expensive but has less flavor.
4
I admire Franklin BBQ and all he has done to raise the bar of BBQ which is a genuine and unique American cuisine. As one who has spent a good amount of time smoking meat and of course pouring over countless books an articles about this mystic art, I have to say that Aaron has proved that less is more. The complex secret rubs and sauces that abound are really antithetical to the true spirit of BBQ which is simplicity.
While many have written that BBQ and slow smoking arose from a need to tenderize and, in fact, make edible, inexpensive cuts of meat I believe that has come to mean "cheap" cuts. According to Aaron Franklin himself, they use prime grade brisket. I doubt many other places do the same and I believe this accounts for acclaim he has received. In the end, it's all about the ingredients and using the best will yield superior results. I've tried it in my own efforts and I can tell you, you will taste the difference. If you are going to spend 12=18 hours or more cooking something, isn't it worth your time to use the best.
My favorite deli in Hoboken, Fiore's, has a sign wrapped in plastic wrap behind the counter that reads, "The taste is remembered long after the cost is forgotten".
It's as simple as that.
While many have written that BBQ and slow smoking arose from a need to tenderize and, in fact, make edible, inexpensive cuts of meat I believe that has come to mean "cheap" cuts. According to Aaron Franklin himself, they use prime grade brisket. I doubt many other places do the same and I believe this accounts for acclaim he has received. In the end, it's all about the ingredients and using the best will yield superior results. I've tried it in my own efforts and I can tell you, you will taste the difference. If you are going to spend 12=18 hours or more cooking something, isn't it worth your time to use the best.
My favorite deli in Hoboken, Fiore's, has a sign wrapped in plastic wrap behind the counter that reads, "The taste is remembered long after the cost is forgotten".
It's as simple as that.
9
Snow's, Smitty's, La Barbecue, City Market in Luling. Louis Mueller in Taylor also has great sausages. All of these places make extremely tasty classic Texas BBQ and all are a unique culinary/cultural experience. And without waiting in quite so long of a line.
8
I've lived in Austin for 10 years and have been to over 20 bbq places including Franklin's (I've waited up to 3 hours to eat there when they were in the food trailor), Snows, Kreuz in Lockhart, Micklethwait Craft Meat, but my favorite is a place in South Austin that already has too many people in line so I won't give their name out. As someone who has lived in South Carolina and visited Kansas City quite often, I can honestly say the I think the Austin area has the best bbq brisket in the U.S.
4
I feel the need to comment that I don't like meat and that other people shouldn't eat it either. Now I feel better. Carry on.
2
Plants have feelings too
6
You forgot to mention that Aaron won a recent James Beard award (2015), His best selling book gives away all his BBQ secrets, which only gives mortals false hope. Louie Mueller's Beef rib is the best beef I have ever eaten. Make the pilgrimage to his BBQ after Aaron's, you wont be disappointed.
1
Pffffttttt. Who reads the New York Times for their opinion on BBQ? A Texan visiting NYC is lost. A Times writer writing about BBQ is a fool.
8
I can attest that Franklin's brisket are excellent. I've been to other central Texas BBQ joints and Franklin's brisket is above par and worth a mention in NYT. What do I know about BBQ? I'm Brazilian-Korean (two countries that have distinct BBQ cultures), who's traveled the world over as an NGO, and grew up in diversity-rich city of Washington DC, eating everything along the way. And among the many things I've eaten in several different regions of the world, I've found Franklin's BBQ to be a memorable one.
2
Man, really? Why not review Ludo Bites? Or Bar Tartine? Or Jiro? Or Gavin Kaysen's place? Or the French Laundry?
I love the NY times and I just wish there was a review of a restaurant that hasn't been reviewed 8 million times, featured in the movie "Chef" and does not need any media assistance for boosting business.
I'd just like to think that the newspaper with, what I believe to be the best food section in the United States had a little more insight and exciting food news to offer.
I love the NY times and I just wish there was a review of a restaurant that hasn't been reviewed 8 million times, featured in the movie "Chef" and does not need any media assistance for boosting business.
I'd just like to think that the newspaper with, what I believe to be the best food section in the United States had a little more insight and exciting food news to offer.
9
Two stars for a BBQ joint is a rave review. Pete - are there for South-by ?
1
Really well written. Pig candy. But some of the piece was needlessly mean spirited.
1
More great stuff from Pete Wells! Nice pictures too - looks fantastic. Texas seems to have cornered the market on great BBQ - it's everywhere down there.
And it certainly helps offset the redneck atmosphere there in many placers. Texas also leads the country in wind energy, so that's another feather in their cap.
And it certainly helps offset the redneck atmosphere there in many placers. Texas also leads the country in wind energy, so that's another feather in their cap.
1
Barbecue as produced in the U.S. originated in Texas, and no other U.S. barbecue has ever been close.
1
Franklin is fine, but four-hour wait? In that length of time I can sample barbeque just as tasty from any of a dozen other joints in Central Texas.
The writer has obviously not made it to Driftwood, where Salt Lick Barbeque can make a strong case as the all-inclusive Barbeque Mecca. And I defy anyone to find burnt ends more succulent than those carved on-the-spot at Barbeque Station in San Antonio.
The writer has obviously not made it to Driftwood, where Salt Lick Barbeque can make a strong case as the all-inclusive Barbeque Mecca. And I defy anyone to find burnt ends more succulent than those carved on-the-spot at Barbeque Station in San Antonio.
4
Long time reader, first time commenter. For locals (or ambitious visitors), you CAN skip the line- you just have to order enough brisket for 20+ people (one whole brisket, aka 5-6 pounds). Email them (check the website) 2-3 weeks ahead of time and tell them what day you want it. Then you can walk right in at 9 AM and pick it up (plus sauces; I'm not sure about sides). Allot two hours to bring to room temp and then heat in a slow oven at home (with butter). I've flown a brisket to Thanksgiving in CA before [the Austin TSA agents laughed and nodded knowingly at my insulated bag full of meat] to great acclaim.
11
This is fabulous!!
I've tried quite a few over the years and the only place I've returned to is Smitty's of Lockhart.
Stick with Franklins so I don't have wait at Smitty's
Stick with Franklins so I don't have wait at Smitty's
9
Definitely, better BBQ at Smitty's and no 3 hour waits, better sides too!
5
Most NYT reviews cover restaurants where most New Yorkers can't afford to eat, so it seems entirely appropriate that you should review restaurants that require round-trip airfare.
Or is the message here if you want to find a good moderately priced meal, you'll have to travel at least 1000 miles from New York City?
Or is the message here if you want to find a good moderately priced meal, you'll have to travel at least 1000 miles from New York City?
8
The message is that it's not all about you.
12
Well, NYT is a national newspaper. But I don't see many reviews for spots in say, Minneapolis, or Spokane.
The subjugation of BBQ to connoisseurship is amusing. This is humble fare, folks, a way to make cheap, tough, undesirable cuts of meat more appealing. I've been eating the stuff all my life (more than six decades) and to me there are only three kinds of BBQ: overpriced, worth it, and ain't goin' back. I've been to Franklin and I have absolutely no problem telling you that it is some damn fine BBQ. Dude knows his onions, as they say. However, I just don't feature waiting in a line for hours to buy a $$$ plate of BBQ when there are any number of establishments within driving distance where good-to-very good BBQ is to be had without the wait and at a significant fraction of the cost.
16
Three Bars, you rock! I'll stand you a pint the next time at the Barber Shop in Drippin'. You'll know me by my outsized Mexican sombrero.
1
Actually, I would say that many of the places have equal or better stuff. If he tops Luling Market or Smitty's (forget Black's or Kreuz, too much salt and at Black's the meat is served from a steam table), then he has gone some.
I see plenty of obese folks in the photos. I'm just guessing that they ordered more than a 1/2 pound of the brisket.
The NYT is slightly schizophrenic. Some of the best articles on climate change, including one today on Australia's Great Barrier Reef dying because of increased water temperatures. But the food writers seem fixated on eating dead animal flesh, one of the largest contributors to climate change, deforestation, environmental degradation, and our coming epidemic of bacteria resistant to every known antibiotic. Because it "tastes good."
The NYT is slightly schizophrenic. Some of the best articles on climate change, including one today on Australia's Great Barrier Reef dying because of increased water temperatures. But the food writers seem fixated on eating dead animal flesh, one of the largest contributors to climate change, deforestation, environmental degradation, and our coming epidemic of bacteria resistant to every known antibiotic. Because it "tastes good."
4
Yep! It does taste good...Who are you kidding with this "climate change" nonsense? You're delusional if you think eating animal flesh is destroying the planet!
4
Brisket? Really? Maybe 30 years ago at Katzs'. Today, not so much. I enjoyed the review, admire the culinary science but I can't actually remember the last time I ate red meat.
3
Great! Revel in your smugness!
11
Pretentious much? Please stay up "north"!
4
Lewis Grizzard on BBQ:
— The best barbecue is pork served in Georgia. In Texas, they barbecue beef, which isn’t barbecue at all.
— The best barbecue is found in family-run operations. Harold Hembree of Harold’s Barbecue in Atlanta can’t count the number of cousins and nieces and nephews working there. There are three generations of Sprayberrys cooking and serving at Sprayberry’s in Newnan. And it was Jim Brewer’s father-in-law who started Fresh-Air Barbecue in Jackson, Georgia, 51 years ago.
— If there are religious posters on the wall, you can usually count on the barbecue being good.
— Good barbecue restaurants rarely serve beer. “Mama won’t allow it in here,” is why Harold Hembree doesn’t serve it. “You’ll lose your family trade,” says Jim Brewer.
— The best barbecue restaurants are careful what kind of bread they serve with their meat. Normally, it’s buns for sandwiches and white bread for plates.
— Brunswick stew is too complicated to get into. Everybody has a different idea of how it should be cooked and what it should contain.
— Same with the sauce. There are hundreds of varieties of sauces. If the meat is good, the sauce will be, too.
— It is important to put up a sign in a barbecue restaurant that reads, “No shoes, no shirt, no service.” This will add class to the place by keeping out people from Texas.
— The best barbecue is pork served in Georgia. In Texas, they barbecue beef, which isn’t barbecue at all.
— The best barbecue is found in family-run operations. Harold Hembree of Harold’s Barbecue in Atlanta can’t count the number of cousins and nieces and nephews working there. There are three generations of Sprayberrys cooking and serving at Sprayberry’s in Newnan. And it was Jim Brewer’s father-in-law who started Fresh-Air Barbecue in Jackson, Georgia, 51 years ago.
— If there are religious posters on the wall, you can usually count on the barbecue being good.
— Good barbecue restaurants rarely serve beer. “Mama won’t allow it in here,” is why Harold Hembree doesn’t serve it. “You’ll lose your family trade,” says Jim Brewer.
— The best barbecue restaurants are careful what kind of bread they serve with their meat. Normally, it’s buns for sandwiches and white bread for plates.
— Brunswick stew is too complicated to get into. Everybody has a different idea of how it should be cooked and what it should contain.
— Same with the sauce. There are hundreds of varieties of sauces. If the meat is good, the sauce will be, too.
— It is important to put up a sign in a barbecue restaurant that reads, “No shoes, no shirt, no service.” This will add class to the place by keeping out people from Texas.
8
With a father from Georgia and mother from Texas, I grew up with both pork and beef barbecue. But Dad grew to appreciate beef after broadening his palate in the USAF. Wow! I discovered Fresh Air in Jackson as freshman at Mercer U 1973 for a wild hair trip out of Macon or traveling to Atlanta. Then Sprayberry's years later. Still, I salivate for barbecue brisket and sausage in Texas ... especially at Cooper's BBQ in Llano 75 miles NW of Austin for a pound of prime rib dipped in sauce (I thought it would be a waste of prime rib) at $25/lb.
3
If you haven't eaten in Texas, you haven't eaten barbecue. It is that simple.
No beer with barbecue? That's not the most ridiculous thing you said, but it's close. And the beer really should be Shiner Bock, which was even better before they started mass producing it and shipping it out of state.
No beer with barbecue? That's not the most ridiculous thing you said, but it's close. And the beer really should be Shiner Bock, which was even better before they started mass producing it and shipping it out of state.
1
I guess Mr. Wells has concluded, Guy Fieri's American Kitchen and Bar aside, no New York eatery warrants any mention. Perhaps I should check out the Austin American-Statesman for a worthwhile New York didning experience.
7
Why 2 stars??
2
The best Texas brisket I ever ate was slow cooked to perfection in the back of a converted Dairy Queen on the side of the road in Tomball, Texas, a great little town north of Houston.The sides were delicious too.
7
You make the point that some small towns have the best barbecue, and it is in joints. However, they have mostly not been "discovered" by the hip crowd.
1
Sugar everywhere.Sugar in the brisket.Sugar in sausages.Sugar in the sauce. Sugar in American mustard. Sugar in ketchup.
2
If you walk into a southern barbecue joint and notice there are no flies, ask yourself ; "what do they know that you don't?"
2
Stop with all this hipster, dipster crafted nonsense. The best brisket in N.Y.C. is Daisy Mays on 11th Avenue! Sublime!
Having lived in Texas a couple of times in my life, I've had some great brisket, pork, and chicken at both somewhat upscale restaurants and good old-fashioned, smoky, hole in the wall places, mostly in central Texas. I've never been to Franklin's restaurant, but I've seen the PBS show he did and it is obvious he has seriously delved into the science of smoking meats, so maybe he has stumbled onto something.
For those people on here saying you can't get good brisket outside Texas, I will direct you to More Than Q in Lambertville, NJ. Yes, New Jersey, for all of you laughing. I wouldn't have believed it, either, but I stumbled on this place on a side street in Lambertville, a haven for antiques on the Delaware river. Is it the equal of real Texas brisket? I would argue that it is as close as you can get on the east coast and it is better than some brisket I had in Texas.
Having said that, I've also lived in eastern North Carolina and I have never found pulled pork BBQ as good as that vinegary eastern NC style anywhere west of Raleigh NC or in any other state. I've tried alleged eastern NC style BBQ outside of NC with no success. For that delicacy, you have to travel at least to Raleigh, or preferably east of Raleigh.
For those people on here saying you can't get good brisket outside Texas, I will direct you to More Than Q in Lambertville, NJ. Yes, New Jersey, for all of you laughing. I wouldn't have believed it, either, but I stumbled on this place on a side street in Lambertville, a haven for antiques on the Delaware river. Is it the equal of real Texas brisket? I would argue that it is as close as you can get on the east coast and it is better than some brisket I had in Texas.
Having said that, I've also lived in eastern North Carolina and I have never found pulled pork BBQ as good as that vinegary eastern NC style anywhere west of Raleigh NC or in any other state. I've tried alleged eastern NC style BBQ outside of NC with no success. For that delicacy, you have to travel at least to Raleigh, or preferably east of Raleigh.
6
Franklin is popular in Austin with uber-cool liberals from foreign states. For even better barbecue go 75 miles NW to Llano for Cooper's BBQ coopersbbq.com for a one pound slice of prime rib at $24/lb!
Sorry we missed Franklin's when we were in Austin a few years ago. We did have brisket in a couple other "famous" places and this will sound very odd, but it didn't compare to a strange little bar/restaurant in a south Dayton suburb called Dark Horse Tavern. Legend had it that the cook learned to make brisket in Austin, I don't know if true. But it was so perfect, always falling apart juicy. I would order a whole brisket for any party I had and people would say, "what am I eating?" in amazement. When my brother from San Diego visited, he would order a whole brisket and vacuum pack it in sections to take back. And alas, without warning, without enough time to order mass quantities to vacuum pack and freeze, they CLOSED!!! We have a few other places to get half-way decent brisket, but not Texas-style and it's never quite perfect--too fatty, too dry, not spicy enough...I miss my brisket. And Texas is far away for a quick fix.
5
A bit frustrating that Franklin gets only 2 stars. What does barbecue have to do to get 3? Was the dining room the downfall? The line? Self service? Doesn't the food uplift this? Oh, and BTW, there were only three references cited in his book. You correctly point out that two were books, the third was my website, AmazingRibs.com (and I have since published a book).
2
Could be the spirit with which the meat was cooked.
Go online to Youtube for past interviews with Aron Franklin on Austin Tv channels.
He DOES know how to set up the frame work and move the smoke at temperature, but it seems to be that he is driven by media praise and a desire for fame where his heart is in it.
Go online to Youtube for past interviews with Aron Franklin on Austin Tv channels.
He DOES know how to set up the frame work and move the smoke at temperature, but it seems to be that he is driven by media praise and a desire for fame where his heart is in it.
Just spent 22 days early this year hitting a the "big name" BBQ joints in Central Texas. Ate at about 30 of them. Sorry, Franklin was not in our Top 10. You did not even mention Lockhart, Texas, where you will find some of the oldest and most renowned BBQ joints in all Texas. For real history go to Smitty's in Lockhart. For the biggest go to Kreutz, it is huge and better than most anywhere. Black's is another legend there in Lockhart. There are always lines at all of them, for whatever that is supposed to mean. When in Austin we preferred Freedmen's and Stiles Switch to Franklin. We are not experts concerning BBQ but have been judging KCBS BBQ competitions for awhile and we do have our own competition BBQ team. There is always more to learn. When in Texas just ask anyone where to find the best BBQ and they will right away tell you, "whatever I am cooking at my house" and that is the truth!
8
I cannot disagree with anything written and think Franklin's BBQ (especially the brisket and sausage) is well worth waiting for. The line itself has a buzzing tailgate party atmosphere and neighborliness abounds (but bring a book anyway). I would add however, that in the time you waited in line, you could also have driven about 20ish minutes southeast to Blacks or Smitty's in Lockhart, TX - designated the BBQ capital of Texas by its legislature, a well earned distinction.
5
My family is from Texas but I've never been there (I avoid Texas and the south because of the rampant ignorance and hostile political climate) but Franklin's book is a MUST BUY if you love good BBQ. Good biography, good information on how to design and weld a smoker but the BEST part is:
He tells you exactly how he does his BBQ. Amazing. He just gives it all away.
He tells you exactly how he does his BBQ. Amazing. He just gives it all away.
7
Please stay in your "political safe place"! Wow, just because you disagree with how someone or some states voted, you're not visiting there? What a joke!
6
I'm also from Texas. The political climate there now also offends me no end. But I still go back for the good things. And I don't have to wait in line for four hours to find them, either.
1
Interesting article, and I think Austin is a very cool town, but why a NYT restaurant review of a place NOT in NYC? I read the Times every day, even though I'm now living in Pasadena, but am not looking for NYT restaurant reviews in my new home city. I still go to NYC several times a year. If I want to know about restaurants in Austin, I'll do my homework and find them. Please stick to NYC restaurants, Pete Wells, for your weekly reviews, which I very much enjoy.
4
some important culinary points for Yankees.
1) When you light some charcoal briquettes, or worse, flip on your outdoor gas grill, and put on some hot dogs, hamburgers or steaks -- that ain't BBQ -- regardless of how many beers you toss down. Not even if you wear boots and a cowboy hat.
2) There are three basic groups found in Texas that you can't get elsewhere, or at least anywhere near the quality -- 1) BBQ 2) Tex-Mex 3) Chicken fried steak.
3) These basic groups are egalitarian, affordable for the masses and tastier than what you can find in a five star french restaurant.
4) The existence of these three basic food groups in Texas make it -- of themselves -- culinary heaven. However -- particularly in the big cities -- there are restaurants that can and do compete with the best fine dining in NYC.
5) In part, that is because NYC restaurants are over hyped. And many simply live on their reputation & the tourist trade. Many NYC restaurants are good, but many offer the culinary equivalent of "Cats" (that's a sort of musical that should have been put to sleep years ago).
1) When you light some charcoal briquettes, or worse, flip on your outdoor gas grill, and put on some hot dogs, hamburgers or steaks -- that ain't BBQ -- regardless of how many beers you toss down. Not even if you wear boots and a cowboy hat.
2) There are three basic groups found in Texas that you can't get elsewhere, or at least anywhere near the quality -- 1) BBQ 2) Tex-Mex 3) Chicken fried steak.
3) These basic groups are egalitarian, affordable for the masses and tastier than what you can find in a five star french restaurant.
4) The existence of these three basic food groups in Texas make it -- of themselves -- culinary heaven. However -- particularly in the big cities -- there are restaurants that can and do compete with the best fine dining in NYC.
5) In part, that is because NYC restaurants are over hyped. And many simply live on their reputation & the tourist trade. Many NYC restaurants are good, but many offer the culinary equivalent of "Cats" (that's a sort of musical that should have been put to sleep years ago).
7
Well said Ralphie! Couldn't agree more.
2
1) That is pure snobbery and is wrong from a culinary, historic, and linguistic standpoint. Read this for some facts http://amazingribs.com/BBQ_articles/barbecue_defined.html
2) Oy. I have no idea where to start to debunk such snobbery.
3) Clearly you have limited taste experiences.
4) Agreed.
5) Some truth to this, but on the other hand there are some mighty exciting taste opportunities in NYC. May I recommend you consider buying a less broad brush for next time you paint your sauce?
2) Oy. I have no idea where to start to debunk such snobbery.
3) Clearly you have limited taste experiences.
4) Agreed.
5) Some truth to this, but on the other hand there are some mighty exciting taste opportunities in NYC. May I recommend you consider buying a less broad brush for next time you paint your sauce?
8
Ralphie, you need to get out a bit more. Go see and taste what the world has to offer. You'll be amazed.
Franklin's is famous for causing mass delusions among hipsters. I've never eaten there as I refuse to wait 3-4 hours for BBQ. There are too many good BBQ pits, and life is too short, for that nonsense. Any place in Lockhart, and 3-4 other places in Austin are just as good if not better.
8
Franklin could reduce the line length by having another meat slicer or two. The line has the effect of making those who wait wax rhapsodic about the meat (deservedly or not). I have been a few times and it was good but prefer Snow's in Lexington. That said, Texas has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Q. Their are many great places, focusing only on Franklin's prevents one from focusing on those riches.
13
My daughter invited me for BBQ two weeks ago at Hill Country on W. 26th Street in NYC. OK, I know it ain't Austin,(and I've eaten in several of their BBQ joints) but their brisket was the best I've had in the NE...far superior to Dinosaur BBQ, in my opinion. Although I relish good pulled pork, ribs and Southeastern BBQ from Va to Miss., I decided to try Hill Country's brisket..the moist offering. It was terrific! And they get daily shipments of Kreuz's sausages, as well. Had the jalapeno & cheese version, and it was memorable. their collards were decent, as well. Give it a try. When in Rome..........
5
And now that you have me drooling all over my keyboard, how can I get this stuff? and why can no one here on LI even make a reasonable stab at replication? Do they ship???
2
I've been to Franklin BBQ and it's perfectly fine but if you've ever lived in Texas before Franklin's existed (I have) you may wonder what the hype is about. The best I can figure is that many people have never had Texas-style BBQ brisket or ribs before - in Texas. Because there are plenty of places in Texas that serve brisket/ribs that will be better or just as good in the minds of many.
Now if you're a tourist, maybe waiting in line for hours is a "communal experience" (I've been that tourist elsewhere) but most people are trying to get BBQ back to their house or someone else's house to eat, or trying to eat lunch and get back to work. They don't have time for that nonsense. It's my experience in Texas that you *do* have to sit and wait for good BBQ (like, maybe 15-30 minutes?) even if you've called ahead to pick it up; and a great BBQ place may (will) run out of meat on a Saturday afternoon. Once the meat is gone, they close up. Always call ahead.
But I will say Franklin's is an IMO fascinating example of how certain places get reams and reams of publicity for years (Mr. Wells is very late to the party in this case) and certain places just quietly crank along, forever and ever, with a local media mention/award here and there - and yet they never run out of customers because their food is good. Fascinating!
Now if you're a tourist, maybe waiting in line for hours is a "communal experience" (I've been that tourist elsewhere) but most people are trying to get BBQ back to their house or someone else's house to eat, or trying to eat lunch and get back to work. They don't have time for that nonsense. It's my experience in Texas that you *do* have to sit and wait for good BBQ (like, maybe 15-30 minutes?) even if you've called ahead to pick it up; and a great BBQ place may (will) run out of meat on a Saturday afternoon. Once the meat is gone, they close up. Always call ahead.
But I will say Franklin's is an IMO fascinating example of how certain places get reams and reams of publicity for years (Mr. Wells is very late to the party in this case) and certain places just quietly crank along, forever and ever, with a local media mention/award here and there - and yet they never run out of customers because their food is good. Fascinating!
32
Waited for 4 hours on line in 2011 to eat at Franklin's.
Bought a 100.00 dollars worth of BBQ for myself (I'm a triathlete and BMI compliant) and housed it all in 24 hours.
#Worth
Bought a 100.00 dollars worth of BBQ for myself (I'm a triathlete and BMI compliant) and housed it all in 24 hours.
#Worth
2
"I'm a triathlete and BMI compliant" - that's what they all say while licking every last finger.
2
Standing in long lines for barbecue is for chumps. There is plent of excellent barbecue available with "normal" waits. Is Franklin's BBQ "all that"? I'll never stand in line like that so I'll never know.
3
Like pizza in NYC, the competition for BBQ has raised the standard for all, and we meat-eaters here in Austin reap the benefits. Once you have a bite of brisket where you can "taste the pit," your palette for grilled meat will never be the same. When the fat is so full of flavor it is no longer just a moisturizing cast-off-worthy scrap but a desired morsel, you know you are approaching brisket bliss. That said, for those who just don't have that kind of time, I would recommend three other joints just as good as Franklin's - La Barbeque, Stiles Switch BBQ, Micklethwait Craft Meats. And just so you know, I'm leaving my favorite place off this list for Franklin-type reasons.
12
I've done it. WORTH IT.
It's like dying and going to BBQ heaven.
It's like dying and going to BBQ heaven.
2
Two years ago my son-in-law gave me two tickets to the Texas Magazine BBQ road trip. Stops included: Snow's, Louie Mueller, Franklin's, and I cannot remember the last but was located on North Lamar.
Franklin's had closed their doors to the public waiting for our arrival. Although I live in Austin, I have never stood in line at Franklin's and their was no waiting this time.
I enjoyed the food (brisket, ribs, and turkey) at Franklin's, but unlike my companions on the bus, I preferred Snow's.
Franklin's had closed their doors to the public waiting for our arrival. Although I live in Austin, I have never stood in line at Franklin's and their was no waiting this time.
I enjoyed the food (brisket, ribs, and turkey) at Franklin's, but unlike my companions on the bus, I preferred Snow's.
5
Plus, Tootsie is a hoot.
2
as a Texican who has lived on the east coast, I submit that the avg Texan knows more abut how to cook meat than most steak joints up here do. And for goodness sake, don't make the mistake of going to an east coast BBQ restaurant and think you've tasted real BBQ. Ditto when it comes to Tex-Mex, chicken fried steak (i actually have been served a chicken fried steak in a "pretend" SWest style Yankee restaurant without any darn gravy. That would get you 5 years at hard labor in Texas).
Any event, for all you Yankees or coasties who've never actually been to Texas and tasted BBQ, you haven't lived. You can have your sauces and Nouvelle Cuisine, diners etc., but you ain't tasted real food till you've tasted Texas BBQ. The amazing thing about brisket -- you take what is basically a cheap (used to be cheaper) piece of meat -- let someone who knows what they are doing smoke it for a while - and it beats the best steak you can find in any steak house.
Now, I've never been to Franklin's. But I've visited many of the top BBQ joints in Texas and if Franklin is as good as advertised, well, you boys and girls have a treat in store. And, we should make it a crime to allow someone to turn an unsuspecting brisket into corn beef. Just saying.
Any event, for all you Yankees or coasties who've never actually been to Texas and tasted BBQ, you haven't lived. You can have your sauces and Nouvelle Cuisine, diners etc., but you ain't tasted real food till you've tasted Texas BBQ. The amazing thing about brisket -- you take what is basically a cheap (used to be cheaper) piece of meat -- let someone who knows what they are doing smoke it for a while - and it beats the best steak you can find in any steak house.
Now, I've never been to Franklin's. But I've visited many of the top BBQ joints in Texas and if Franklin is as good as advertised, well, you boys and girls have a treat in store. And, we should make it a crime to allow someone to turn an unsuspecting brisket into corn beef. Just saying.
6
Yer killin' me here, up in Northern Ontario, Canada.
Finding really truly BBQ is next to impossible.
You folks are so lucky! (well, not in your President, but that's another subject.)
Finding really truly BBQ is next to impossible.
You folks are so lucky! (well, not in your President, but that's another subject.)
8
There are plenty of Canadians in Texas this time of year ("Winter Texans') and you're welcome to join them.
5
Coopersbbq.com ships.
The line at Franklin's is not Mr. Franklin's fault? Are you insane?
It would be completely straightforward to eliminate the line in favor of timed tickets, or preordering, or any number of other ways. Instead, every day, a thousand person-hours are spent standing in line, because there's no alternative. They could run an online daily lottery for timed entry. Give me the word, Mr. Franklin, and I will set it up and run it for you, as a gesture to humanity.
It would be completely straightforward to eliminate the line in favor of timed tickets, or preordering, or any number of other ways. Instead, every day, a thousand person-hours are spent standing in line, because there's no alternative. They could run an online daily lottery for timed entry. Give me the word, Mr. Franklin, and I will set it up and run it for you, as a gesture to humanity.
9
Anyone who waits in line to pay for food because it is great is foolish. If no one waits in line at Franklins or any other fooderie resulting in lost income to the owners, then the owners will certainly figure out a way to accommodate their customers and cut down waiting time considerably.
2
"I doubt I’d trade Franklin’s brisket for anybody’s, although for other meats, and certainly for turkey, I may give a slight edge to Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland."
Mr. Wells, I am mystified why you gave Franklin's Barbecue only 2 stars yet raved throughout your review about how wonderful you found so many things. I guess that's why you're a Food Critic and I'm merely a food consumer/inhaler.
All I know is this: after forwarding this review and delicious/delectable photo of BBQ brisket from Franklin's to my husband, we are flying to Texas this weekend to try it and then drive onto Cooper's BBQ in Llano (thanks to Mark's recommendation). Chicago has a very fine BBQ joint called "Smoque". Their stuff is divine. However, it's cold in Chicago with a bunch of snow - perfect time for some warm weather, sunny skies and mouthwatering brisket!
Thank you for the perfect timing of this article.
3
If you have the time, drive to Lockhart and try the brisket from any of the places in that town, Mueller's, Black's and Kreuz Market, just the 3 most famous, I suppose. The lines are shorter, but the food is to die for!
2
Hi, two stars from the New York Times mean "very good" and not too many restaurants get those much-wanted two stars, so I'm sure the restaurant is very happy!
2
You mean Smitty's. Mueller's is not in Lockhart. Good suggestion though!
4
How could you torture me with such a mouth-watering review while I'm snowed in under 2 feet of snow?
7
Aaron Franklin is an amazing person. He is humble and appreciative of his success and the DIY attitude that got him to this point should be greatly admired. His cookbook was one of the best I have read. That being said, I just don't think his brisket--and the other meats, except the sausage (awesome)--is all that great. He cooks high-grade, all-natural (and expensive) prime brisket that is extremely marbled. What people consider juicy, to me, is just overly greasy. His approach to wrapping means the meat lacks smoky flavor and was closer to pot roast in flavor than to smoky central Texas-style brisket. Same lack of smoke and grease issue with other meats.
The best brisket I ever ate was at City Market in Luling, TX. Definitely not overly damp but tender, succulent...and smoky. Probably lower grade select brisket that was cooked the best it possibly could. The experience of ordering barbecue in the dark smoky back room of City Market is like no other. That is barbecue!
The best brisket I ever ate was at City Market in Luling, TX. Definitely not overly damp but tender, succulent...and smoky. Probably lower grade select brisket that was cooked the best it possibly could. The experience of ordering barbecue in the dark smoky back room of City Market is like no other. That is barbecue!
19
Franklin uses choice (Angus) brisket. http://www.texasmonthly.com/food/bbq-anatomy-101-know-your-brisket/
1
Luling rocks!
This native Tar Heel has been a fan of Eastern NC pork Que for many, many years. I used to relish telling the joke (not original with me*) that the reason Texans smoke cow meat is that they never learned how to lasso a hog.
However, after having lived in Texas for three stints totaling 19 years, I can say that NOBODY knows how to turn a tough piece of brisket into the most succulent, smokey-flavored delicacy imaginable like a good Texas pitmaster. And I haven't even made it to Franklin's place yet! It's on my bucket list.
*I think the lasso joke originated with the proprietor of a kosher (!) Que joint in St. Louis, MO, told at a Southern foodways conference in Jackson, MS, a couple of decades ago. Sorry, I'm getting on in years--that's the best citation I can deliver.
However, after having lived in Texas for three stints totaling 19 years, I can say that NOBODY knows how to turn a tough piece of brisket into the most succulent, smokey-flavored delicacy imaginable like a good Texas pitmaster. And I haven't even made it to Franklin's place yet! It's on my bucket list.
*I think the lasso joke originated with the proprietor of a kosher (!) Que joint in St. Louis, MO, told at a Southern foodways conference in Jackson, MS, a couple of decades ago. Sorry, I'm getting on in years--that's the best citation I can deliver.
12
I Love you guys. I can only dream.
2
Good point about just driving to Taylor for Louie Mueller's barbecue. Take SH 130 for the opportunity to drive a legal 85 mph.
6
If Franklin doesn't deserve 4 stars for it's BBQ, then Pete need to re-evaluate his career choice.
13
I totally agree with what others have pointed out. This is a 4 star place by any standards. On my first visit I felt that it was one the best meals I have ever had and have never been disappointed since. Aaron is kind to everyone as he personally cuts the meats, so we all feel we are getting the total experience of his amazing talent as a pit master. The brisket is so amazing, that it is sad when you reach feeling full as you don't want the experience to end. The good part is, that the memories endure and can only be satisfied by returning. If you're lucky to have the beef ribs, you are totally lucky. Thank you Aaron for mastering the art for us to experience.
6
"I admired the way the bourbon-banana pie compressed childhood and adulthood in a single dessert."
That was worth the wait.
That was worth the wait.
4
No mention of the pork rib?!? i k ow it's not traditional Central Texas BBQ, but is still heavenly. Also, I thought La Barbecue's brisket was #1 in Austin.
1
Exactly why is the New York Critic reviewing a BBQ restaurant in Texas? I'm pretty sure there are plenty of restaurants to review right here in NYC.
3
Plan in advance to put in a to-go order of 5 pounds or more to skip the line. This usually needs to be done weeks in advance but let's you save time and make many instant friends when you share your bounty with them.
1
Just two stars? Was that one for each hour you had to wait?
5
Two stars 'cos it is only two dollar signs
You have no shame sir! Here we are in the greater NY Metropolitan area suffering the aches and pains of shoveling massive amounts of heavy snow and slush while you are telling us about shoveling massive amounts of exquisite Texas BBQ in warmth and sunshine. Did you bring enough take-out back for everybody?
29
Trust the enduring line for food. Franklin's isn't 'trending', people aren't standing in line because of branding or clever social media...they're standing there because there's food like no other food at the end of the line.
Hot Doug's, Dominique Ansel's, Katz's, the late, great Great Lake Pizza (Chicago), Big Star, my former shingle Zingerman's Delicatessen...if people keep waiting there must be something be waiting for.
re - the latter, Zingerman's, there was always a robust chorus of Townie skepticism - "It's all hype, it's too expensive, etc.
And I would reply 'Yeah, we've had a line out the door for 25 years (now 35 years) because we just tricked everybody'
Go Franklin's (one of the best Cookbooks ever written by the way). Enjoy the wait. It's worth it.
Hot Doug's, Dominique Ansel's, Katz's, the late, great Great Lake Pizza (Chicago), Big Star, my former shingle Zingerman's Delicatessen...if people keep waiting there must be something be waiting for.
re - the latter, Zingerman's, there was always a robust chorus of Townie skepticism - "It's all hype, it's too expensive, etc.
And I would reply 'Yeah, we've had a line out the door for 25 years (now 35 years) because we just tricked everybody'
Go Franklin's (one of the best Cookbooks ever written by the way). Enjoy the wait. It's worth it.
12
I love brisket and have a hard time finding a place that does it right. Next time in that area i'll give it a shot
Best brisket i've ever had... Smokey Dreams in Greenville SC. Other BBQ items are ok.. but the brisket is just out of this world.
Best brisket i've ever had... Smokey Dreams in Greenville SC. Other BBQ items are ok.. but the brisket is just out of this world.
2
yummy yummy, and no mention of heart disease, the number one killer of Americans.
For a good plate of barbecue, I am willing to take the risk.
Being a wet blanket is the number one killer of American souls, sqb.
Being a wet blanket is the number one killer of American souls, sqb.
11
Live fat free, or fry! I don't think there's a vegan column in this newspaper but maybe there should be to satisfy "those" people… I hope I'm not sounding discriminatory but they're like a sub species that exists – especially out here near Sonta Cruuuz.
I used to go to John Mueller Meat Co., which was across the street from my house but the owner was so rude, twice, and the food so-so, that I never went back. There is some justice in this world: he is doing badly and he deserves it. Always treat customers with respect? What a jerk.
4
When our ancestors wanted meat it was pork simply because the only cut of beef that has enough fat to smoke/BBQ is brisket. Many older homes where I grew up had a small separate smoke house where they would smoke their hams, shoulder, bacon and pork chops. Since refrigeration/freezers did not exist, they had to smoke their pork to keep it from spoiling.
I have an offset smoker and I mostly smoke fresh ham and Boston Butt or pork shoulder. I use locally sourced oak and keep the temperature in the 200 - 225F range and it takes about 10 - 12 hours to get the internal temps to 180F. At this temp the collagen/fat breaks down and makes the pork moist.
The commercial smokers have a lot of mass in the steel they are made from and this helps stabilize the temperature. Mine weighs in at a little over 600 pounds. I use a home made dry rub with no salt or sugar and some moderate ground chilies.
Turkey is also very good - bake the stuffing in your oven.
I have an offset smoker and I mostly smoke fresh ham and Boston Butt or pork shoulder. I use locally sourced oak and keep the temperature in the 200 - 225F range and it takes about 10 - 12 hours to get the internal temps to 180F. At this temp the collagen/fat breaks down and makes the pork moist.
The commercial smokers have a lot of mass in the steel they are made from and this helps stabilize the temperature. Mine weighs in at a little over 600 pounds. I use a home made dry rub with no salt or sugar and some moderate ground chilies.
Turkey is also very good - bake the stuffing in your oven.
4
Finally someone who gave us the sequence of secrets. Hooray for DI Y! Now, just have to import the tons of refractory bricks that might be needed to go around a steel box that needs to be welded-up with a system baffles, vents, and flame adjustments that would be necessary… Kind of like building a kiln, for firing ceramic pottery! Can't wait to get started – nahhhh, I'll just order out or in
These pictures are food porn of the highest order! The words seal the deal. I'm all in.
6
7:30 am last year and I was third in line on a Wednesday. 3 & 1/2 hours and worth every minute. I go out of my way to sample barbecue brisket everywhere I can find it, and while some like Mueller's come close, Aaron's is the best.
2
there is a place called Micklethwait Craft Meats which is about another 5 blocks down the road. no wait, nice picnic tables, and really great food
2
At the very top of the review, the address of Franklin Barbecue should be listed as "900 East 11th Street Austin, Texas".
I have no wish to be rude, but -- though I very much like the way Pete Wells writes -- the basics of editing are * the basics * -- and a certain standard must needs be adhered-to.
I have no wish to be rude, but -- though I very much like the way Pete Wells writes -- the basics of editing are * the basics * -- and a certain standard must needs be adhered-to.
3
I lived in Texas for 30 years, and sampled Q all over North, Central, and South Texas...got spoiled, don't think I ever had any that I would even call "just ok". Retired and moved back to Mn...sure wish there was someone in this state that could replicate even the "mediocre".
5
gotta make your own.
BBQ in Wisconsin is a sad sad joke. I have more money in my pit than i do my indoor kitchen.
BBQ in Wisconsin is a sad sad joke. I have more money in my pit than i do my indoor kitchen.
2
The reviewer does not mention the long line at Franklin's is a very democratic way of selling a commodity in high demand but very limited supply. Aaron Franklin could always jack the price up so high that only the very wealthy could afford it, and could pop right in from their Teslas with no wait at all. A line is a great social leveler, as is a great BBQ meal.
23
I might wait in line to get into the Sistine Chapel but not for BBQ.
9
Good brisket IS the Sistine Chapel of meat :)
26
Well, having waited in line to gaze at the Sistine Chapel while crammed in with about 2,000 other people for 15 minutes, I'd rather have good brisket.
5
Okay, I might wait in line for a plate of pierogi's at Solkolowski's too!
Roadtrip.
2
Oh it's so easy to get hipsters to wait in line hours for food. You see this in New York and Portland too.
18
We have been very lucky to have been eating BBQ from Franklin's since 2009. We have been there well over a hundred times. It is wll worth the wait, as it is succulent BBQ. The waitin line is a social event. We have met people from all over the world. If you get a chance wait in line, visit with strangers and enjoy brisket that will spoil you for the rest of your life.
1
Pete needs a trip to Llano, TX about 45 minutes outside of Austin to review Cooper's legendary BBQ. The cabrito (goat) is one of the best things BBQ'd one could ever be lucky enough to eat.
Paper plates, white bread and wood paneling with pictures of deer and Ronald Reagan. The Salt lick in the hill country is certainly serviceable 'Q' with a great atmosphere but Cooper's is for those in the know simply the real deal.
Paper plates, white bread and wood paneling with pictures of deer and Ronald Reagan. The Salt lick in the hill country is certainly serviceable 'Q' with a great atmosphere but Cooper's is for those in the know simply the real deal.
1
I've never been to Austin hence I've never been to Franklin's for Que but have followed him on his TV show as he demonstrates all of his skills, culinary and construction of new pits from old propane gas tanks. Aaron Franklin is a unique person. I believe any restaurant where the brisket is described as "exemplary" deserves four stars. The majority of backyard cooks never touch beef brisket. I do and am proud of my product but it is nowhere in the league of Franklin's. My wife spent three years of her USAF career in San Antonio. My visits resulted in a Lyfe Tyme BBQ Pit in my backyard to cook brisket, and other things. Cooking brisket right is far more difficult than pork which is a very forgiving meat due to the magnitude of fat. So, all hail to Aaron Franklin. Bon Appetit once named Franklin's as one of the country's twenty most important restaurants. For a restaurant that has only existed since 2009 that's pretty hefty so give him two more stars.
32
I second Jack's sentiment. I've just recently started cooking brisket in my backyard BBQ with mixed results, and I was following Franklin's cooking instructions. It is very difficult to get right. Lots of variables and a narrow window to land it. Anyone who can do it right and replicate it day after day deserves the highest kudos.
4
I was at Fraklin's last week. It was before SXSW, and we arrived late. We were told that we might not get anything, as the brisket was running out, but about one hour later, we made it through and ordered the most delicious brisket and ribs I have ever tasted. I highly recommend this experience. I disagree about the sausage. It was not on par with the smoked meats.
6
should have been 4 stars. frankiln's brisket is one of the world's great treasures.
19
Thanks, Pete for coming Texas way. I've had the luck to stand in line at Franklin's once and was made happy by the brisket like I've never been before (I am an East Texas boy who hates the gray, insipid rectangles served there. The wait is worth and I am happy to read you think so too.
5
Nice to see the famous critic outside his home territory. Two stars for a "Q" joint in Austin makes me become a Pavlovian dog, seriously considering a road trip. and by policy and tradition, Mr. Wells was *forced* to visit >= three times. Oh, the hits that he takes on his reader's behalf.
Obviously, Austin can be a delightful city, even if one does not drink beer. The lines and wait times are gruesome, but I wonder whether Franklin's may attract a small cadre of line standers. (If anyone knows, please hit REPLY...) I would eat (modestly) at Mr. Franklin's "Q" joint and perhaps pop an extra cholesterol pill before beginning. When Austin, Two Stars and $$ for a Texas "Q" joint suggest a most worthy stop. Would I go a few miles out of my way for an early visit to Franklin's? Yes, and bank on it. Thanks Mr. Wells! This review is a genuine home run.
Obviously, Austin can be a delightful city, even if one does not drink beer. The lines and wait times are gruesome, but I wonder whether Franklin's may attract a small cadre of line standers. (If anyone knows, please hit REPLY...) I would eat (modestly) at Mr. Franklin's "Q" joint and perhaps pop an extra cholesterol pill before beginning. When Austin, Two Stars and $$ for a Texas "Q" joint suggest a most worthy stop. Would I go a few miles out of my way for an early visit to Franklin's? Yes, and bank on it. Thanks Mr. Wells! This review is a genuine home run.
9
Terrific review review as always Mr Wells. I would stand in line for all the wonderful food described n the review, even the turkey. And I can just tell how good that pulled pork sandwich is just from the picture. And of course no Pete Wells review is complete without someone quibbling about the stars so I'll do the honors. You should clearly have given this place 3 stars.
24
Yay for Austin and for Franklin! The line is indeed worth it. You drink, you meet people, you enjoy the weather (hopefully), and time passes quickly. The sense of camaraderie is palpable. Kudos to the NYTimes for sending Pete Wells down to our weird little city! Y'all come back soon.
17
I am not one to wait a long time for food. I get impressively hangry. That said, I stood in line for I believe close to 4 hours for Franklin's BBQ and it was transcendent and worth every minute. That brisket will be part of my last meal on this earth if I get a say. Spectacular. Worth driving from Saint Louis to Austin for (yes, my husband and I did that).
34
Ought to factor in a lot of cognitive disonance there.
Next time save yourself the line wait by purchasing the yearly edition of Texas Monthly that features the top 100 BBQ places in Texas. Can't go wrong there.
Next time save yourself the line wait by purchasing the yearly edition of Texas Monthly that features the top 100 BBQ places in Texas. Can't go wrong there.
I have lived in Houston for forty years and sampled BBQ all over the stated. Been to Franklin twice, and as good as it is, I don't think any food warrants waiting in line for three or more hours. What's the best BBQ in Texas? Ask ten Texas what their favorite BBQ is and you'll get ten different answers. My personal favorite is Black's in Lockhart. Snows in Lexington (east of Austin and north of Giddings - everybody knows where that is right?) has some phenomenal BBQ, but they're only open on Saturday. Mr. Wells is spot on regarding the rib at Louie Mueller, which is a meal in itself - plan to wait an hour or more in line at lunch time, and of you get there to late in the day, they might be sold out of ribs. I could go on, it...
37
Three Texans might give three different answers for their favorite 'cue in Lockhart
5
Thanks for a well tempered review, with all the information I need. I rarely wait in line for food anymore, but this is one circumstance I could make an exception for. The line about slicing before the customer is reassuring. That's the kind of detail worth making time for.
I'm curious whether Texas has resisted the great corn syrup hornswaggle which in so many places has turned pork into just another a delivery system for sugar? The meat looks blissfully sauce-free and so my hopes are high.
I'm curious whether Texas has resisted the great corn syrup hornswaggle which in so many places has turned pork into just another a delivery system for sugar? The meat looks blissfully sauce-free and so my hopes are high.
6
Franklin's is Central Texas style barbecue, which is traditionally sauceless, just salt, pepper and post oak smoke. Though Franklin's is not a purist traditional Central Texas barbecue place, like Kreuz in Lockhart, which serves neither sauce nor sides, nor provides any silverware. Central Texas barbecue is derived from the meat markets (butcher shops) founded by German immigrants starting in the mid-1800s. Any meats they didn't sell that day, they would smoke to preserve longer. Anglos started calling it barbecue, and the German butchers were happy to oblige them, but since they were still butchers, they only served meat, no sauce, no sides, and some of the best places are still like that. It's also the Germans who introduced sausage to barbecue.
[The other styles of barbecue in Texas are East Texas, which is pretty much just a continuation of Deep South barbecue with hickory or pecan smoke, West Texas or Cowboy barbecue with high, direct heat over mesquite coals, and South Texas barbacoa, a whole cow head wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in a hole in the ground like a Hawaiian pig.]
[The other styles of barbecue in Texas are East Texas, which is pretty much just a continuation of Deep South barbecue with hickory or pecan smoke, West Texas or Cowboy barbecue with high, direct heat over mesquite coals, and South Texas barbacoa, a whole cow head wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in a hole in the ground like a Hawaiian pig.]
56