Chefs Struggle Over Whether to Serve Up Politics

Mar 14, 2017 · 48 comments
concernedamerican (Columbus, Ohio)

I'm confused as to why a chef's donating her profits to local food pantries, or to her declaring her restaurant (a private business) a sanctuary restaurant, might be seen as "discriminatory" by customers. She didn't refuse to serve any customers. Against whom does she discriminate?

It is true that a restaurant, in opening its doors to the public, becomes "public" and obliged to serve everyone up to a point (witness this hotly-contested ground with regard to the making of wedding cakes for same-sex weddings). But how is a restaurant's embrace of a policy itself discriminatory?

Now, if the restaurant had refused to serve a Trump supporter, well that obviously would be discriminatory. But that's not the case here. So I just don't get how it's discrimination for a business to support a certain policy or idea, as long as it serves everyone who walks in its doors.

Can someone explain this?
Mike Crichton (Madison, WI)
Personally, I'd go with a different word than "Sanctuary", simply because it triggers so many of the poor dears. But a simple sign saying something like "We do not tolerate any racial, religious, or political harassment of our staff" should suffice. Anyone who complains about it shows their true colors, and only makes their own side look worse.
Beth Grant DeRoos (Angels Camp California)
Many restaurants have 'no firearms' signs and the more conservative NRA types proudly proclaim they will never eat those establishments. Fine.

So Iwould %choose a restaurant that let me know they are a 'safe zone' and do not support any form of harassment based on factors like religion, sexual orientation or immigration status.
Steve Sailer (America)
Let's be honest: these restaurants owners are worried that if the elected government starts enforcing the law, they'll have to pay higher wages, which will cut their profits.
KLD (Texas)
Isn't it deliciously ironic! Democrats and liberals demand a raise in the minimum wage and also fight to keep millions of illegal workers in wage slavery so their foodie restaurant checks won't be too high. Wow.
L’Osservatore (Fair Verona where we lay our scene)
This can be an amazingly simple decision. Do he supporters of Trump represent enough of the market for whatever goods or services you provide that you can kiss them and their friends and family good-bye forever?

With the sales of Ivanka's clothing line reaching new heights, this should be considered a final-for-all-time decision. The surrender to feel-good-progressivism is going to reach an audience that no cycles of regret-filled apologies will never reach.
So, are you living a primarily political existence or a life of being a chef or business person?
As the most politically-involved of the Hollywood set see their offers decline, and then the TV once-in-a-whiles go away, and finally the off-Broadway window close, they will get to visit the same world of adult decisions.
FSMLives! (NYC)
"...President Trump...has endorsed more aggressive deportation of people unauthorized to be in the United States — moves that could hurt the kind of food chefs cook, the people they hire to cook it and their bottom line..."

In other words, if rich restaurant owners cannot hire illegal immigrants using stolen Social Security numbers and pay them less than legal immigrants or American citizens, they would not make quite as much money.

Glad their motivation is made clear.
Kay (Dallas)
NOOOOOOOoooooooooo
Matt Wood (NYC)
If Chefs are hiring illegal aliens than they are part of the problem not the solution.

America has a right to secure it's borders and demand that people who enter come in legally.

Every other sovereign nation in the world is allowed to secure its borders and make the same demand of those entering, so why don't Liberals believe the USA has this same right?
john.goodgold (ny, ny)
wow!! some really mean-spirited answers here. makes one despair.
DG (St. Paul, MN)
Seriously, both sides of the argument are ridiculous. As my dad used to say when he was irritated at the bickering, "I could just knock your heads together..."

To the folks complaining that about those darn illegals, don't forget who picks your fruit or cleans your office at night. I don't exactly see citizens knocking down the doors for those jobs.

And the people who think the restaurants are standing on principle - its because of your twee foodiness that touts the latest and greatest cheap restaurant in town that they hire people who will work for low pay in order to keep their prices low.

The dirty secret is this - cheap labor has a hidden cost. And we aren't willing to step in and do it, nor are we willing to pay the prices to make it go away. Viva la Wal-Mart/Target/fill-in-the-blank.
deRuiter (South Central Pa)
The chefs and restaurant owners are joining the trendy Left movement which declares illegal immigrants more virtuous, more deserving and superior to real American citizens. For instance the president of Starbucks proudly declared he will hire "10,000" immigrants. NOT 10,000 American newly returned veterans, 10.000 immigrants. I have stopped buying Starbucks mocha Frappucinos because of this prejudice for immigrants and against America's citizens. Luckily I found a recipe online with which to duplicate the mocha Fraapucinos cheaply, and tasting exactly like the Starbucks product. I encourage Americans to patronize Dunkin Donuts and small Mom and Pop coffee houses, or to make their own beverages at home. Let the much vaunted immigrants buy Starbucks. And let the Starbucks stock go down in value.
Robb Kvasnak, EdD (Oakland Park FLg)
I cook for seniors which means that my schedule changes often and suddenly. I have hired undocumented helpers and am proud to say that I have treated them the same way that I have treated documented helpers. They were glad to have the work, the pay and an insight into culinary arts since I teach them just as I was taught in Culinary School. I would hired a born American just as readily but there are often none interested. Many of my fellow country folks look down on what we do in the kitchen whereas my helpers who are mostly professionals seeking asylum honor me, my work and the dishes we create for the elderly. I have also learned new dishes and cooking skills from them. I think I will start drinking coffee at Starbucks from time to time.
S D (New Jersey)
Starbucks has hired 8,800 veterans and military spouses toward a five-year goal to reach 10,000 by 2018. Viva frappuccinos. https://news.starbucks.com/news/starbucks-hiring-initiatives
JBJ (New York City)
In 2013, Starbucks committed to hiring 10,000 vets by 2018. They have hired more than 9,000 to date. They actively recruit vets and current military spouses. Your boycott may well be putting a vet out of work.
Judith Klinger (Umbria, Italy and NYC)
Unless you grow all of your own food, you participate in the food industry. The process of farm to table, semen to cellophane, whatever you want to call the food chain that gets food into your mouth, is politicized and regulated at every turn.
Simplistic sloganeering like "Give jobs to Americans first" doesn't even begin to touch on the complexities of migrant labor in the fields, food prep, storage, transport etc.
Restaurants are literally at the top of this heap. They sell prepared foods to people who can afford it. Chefs have had a conscience and understanding about the inequities and injustice of our food supplies for many years. James Beard, Chefs Collective, even Slow Food try to bring these issues into the light to discuss them.
Ms. Severson has done an admirable job explaining the chef's conundrum. People are trying to listen and understand, please give the chefs some credit for trying to make sense of a very crazy world.
maire (nyc)
They hire illegals and pay them lousy wages - why don't they get together and discuss that little bit of hypocrisy before venturing out into the big wide world of "food policy" (God help us!)?
India (KY)
I am tired. I am tired of politics permeating every single aspect of life. I go on Garden Web for decorating ideas and get a political diatribe. I go to a restaurant, and find out it's a "sanctuary". Even my church has plenty to say (in a political, not moral or religious way) on the subject.

If I want to read about politics, I'll read the NYTimes. But when I want to talk about interior design, I have have ZERO interest in somehow throwing in that Trump has horrible taste and is a despot. Nor do I want my dinner (often a VERY expensive dinner) tainted with politics.

When I was growing up back in the Stone Age, I was taught to NEVER discuss politics or religion unless one was in an appropriate place for this (church or a political rally). It was good advice and should once again be obeyed.
Vigo Morelli (Miami, Fl)
Unfortunately, what happens when ppl keep their mouths politely closed is that ppl like Trump get elected and everything we've worked to build in the US is out at risk. Sorry to darken your day, but your decisions have political impacts. Get used to it and try to be on the right side of history.
Bill (<br/>)
My feelings exactly. We all need a break, and often it is a meal that provides the respite.
Brandon (<br/>)
The Chefs using the phone tree in Northern California should be mindful of any applicable obstruction laws, which have been applied to seek criminal conviction of restaurant owners who obstruct legal processes in such a manner. You often see this where restaurant owners inform other restaurants of municipal sting operations carried out by minors who try and buy alcohol at the restaurant.
Marin County (California)
If they're not already (the article is not specific), perhaps Ms. Coulson can pull some of her Hispanic-American employees out of the kitchen and put them to work as waitstaff as exposure therapy for her customers.
MkeLaurie (Wisconsin)
White Gull Inn off my list for Door County. The last thing I want with my dinner is a side dish of politics. Of any flavor.
Chris (Paris, France)
Is anyone here intellectually depressed enough to take political cues from burger flippers or salad tossers? Not to be dismissive of people who might, or might not be politically savvy enough to hold educated opinions on the subject (but whose job training isn't typically based on political science in any case), and be independent enough from the issue to assume an objective point of view; but who cares what political beliefs restaurant owners hold? Given that there's an obvious conflict of interest in employing underpaid illegals and pretending to do so out of social conscience, their point of view is suspect before any discussion has even started.
What seems to be the main question, is whether advertising support for cheap exploited labor under the guise of a Liberal agenda will hurt the bottom line, or not. So restaurant owners, please don't insult patrons' intelligence by claiming you care about your workers' well-being, or assuming anyone should care about your political affiliation..
TTG (NYC)
Mary Lyski's restaurant, Double Comfort, acting as a sanctuary restaurant and donating all of its profits to local food pantries "was a problem for some customers, including a Trump supporter"?!? What a shame that someone acting with kindness and decency made him feel "discriminated against." Does anyone really think this is still about Democrat vs. Republican . . . instead of good vs. evil???
FSMLives! (NYC)
Any restaurant owner who can afford to donate *all* of its profits to local food pantries is a member of the wealthy, rich enough not to need to make a living, unlike the rest of us.

This is just more virtue signaling from the 1%, as if the country has not had enough of this.
Anna (New Haven, CT)
Does it matter if she doesn't need to make a living, if what she is doing is helping others?
deRuiter (South Central Pa)
"...chef and TV personality Andrew Zimmern, said he had received calls from employees in his production company asking if he could hide immigrants in his unused cabin in Minnesota." Why in the world would any legal alien want to cower in a cabin in the Minnesota wilderness? There's nothing there but cold and trees. A legal immigrant could move anywhere in America, get a green card legally and work anywhere, could return home to his / her own country and come back as long as his / her papers were in order. Want to come to America and not be looking over your shoulder constantly? File the proper paperwork and come here legally, that is all we ask. Don't come here illegally and steal a social security number which makes life Hell on earth for a legal American.
FSMLives! (NYC)
Notice there is no mention of his answer to this request.
Elaine (Sacramento)
Scores of people with proper paperwork have been detained, including MIT researchers and other people who have done nothing to invite such treatment. It's a paranoid show-me-your-papers era, and it happened almost instantly. This roundup is out of control and is hurting people and businesses.
deRuiter (South Central Pa)
"Many chefs admit that some of their workers are probably undocumented but have used fake Social Security numbers to get on the payroll." This means the illegals have committed the crime of crossing our border and then compounded that with stealing the social security number of a legal American citizen. Both the illegal thief of another's identity and the person who hires him must be punished. I don't want to cope with my social security number and identity stolen by a criminal alien. I want the illegal thief and the person who hires him / her in jail.
August Ludgate (Chicago)
I am 100% any effort for Americans to challenge Trump voters to think about their support wherever they can.

But I wonder if such an overt display is the best way to go about it. Maybe something that highlights the culinary contributions of targeted immigrant grounds? Their role as restaurant entrepreneurs throughout the country?

For example, I could see a menu item inspire by Mexican or Chicano or Middle Eastern cuisine, highly publicized, with some information about its provenance. Even the heritage of an existing offering if any part of it can be traced back to the cultures of affected groups.

So much of the hate comes from ignorance. Some of it is reflexive; a liberal takes one position, a Trump voter automatically takes the opposite. Obviously, there's always a place for open confrontation. But, IMO, this atmosphere requires creativity and subversiveness, too.

I recall an article published by the Times a month or so ago about the Mexican owner of a Mexican restaurant in a conservative, rural, all-white town. The man was beloved, a pillar in the town; everyone knew who he was, knew his restaurant. But unbeknownst to them he was in the country illegally. ICE cracked down, he was taken from from the community, and, for the first time, all those Trump voters questioned their assumptions about undocumented immigrants.

There are many ways we can protest. I think we need to make sure we take advantage of all of them.
Chris (Paris, France)
Funny how clueless Liberals can be racist and patronizing, and still think they're the "enlightened ones" qualified to lecture the "ignorant masses"..

So the impact of Hispanic immigration can be summed up with burritos, enchiladas, and margaritas? Should sombreros, siestas and fiestas be added to completely define the whole culture? Somehow, some seem to think that the answer to opposition to Illegal Immigration or to the growth of MS13 and Mexican Mafia in American society can be efficiently countered with stereotypes out of Old El Paso taco kit commercials?

Interesting as well, although not surprising, that one seems to equate an "all-white town" with "all those Trump voters". Does that mean that Liberals are a racial group that does not intersect with Whites? Has there never been a Liberal White? I very much doubt that: too many counter-examples all around me.

Another article in the Times today mentioned that excision (female genital mutilation), a cultural specialty brought to us by the vibrant cultures of Africa, the ME, and Asia, is on the rise in the US. Apparently, the celebration of Diversity and the embrace of cultural differences seem to find their limit at excision. As someone who is having an increasingly difficult time understanding the Liberal brand of Logic, please answer this: do Western Liberals' opinions on excision trump African minorities' rights to sustain their traditions? It seems those performing genital cutting are overwhelmingly excised women.
IIreaderII (USA)
Back in 1987, instituting the I-9 in HR depts. was new- everyone had to bring in proof, passports, drivers licenses, etc. Employed by a large construction company in NY, I brought my papers in, along with everyone else who worked there, from the company president on down.

I see no reason why legal immigrants and US born legal citizens cannot take these restaurant jobs that are taken by close to 50% illegal immigrants.

Simple decency, to me, means making sure our citizens even have a chance at getting a phone call back for a restaurant job opening.
Upstater (Hudson Valley)
@IIreaderII: The simple answer is that the employers do not want to pay a living wage to " legal immigrants and US born legal citizens". The same goes for the construction trades, agricultural employment, etc., etc. This is no secret!
David Reiffel (Jamaica Plain, MA)
Meredith Coulson states the conundrum perfectly: “Fairness and equality don’t seem like they should be political,” she said. “But in the current climate, people who voted for Trump might feel personally attacked."

If the 45th president's supporters imagine a call for simple decency to be an attack on them, better they should cook for themselves. Their (guilty) feelings should not outweigh fairness and equality, and I expect restaurant owners will find plenty of support among people for whom decent values are not such a problem.
maire (nyc)
Trump voters do cook for themselves; most of them can't afford to eat in restaurants which is why they voted for Trump in the first place. And, perhaps they feel genuinely unhappy to be among people who are so superior in their "decent values."
Spiky Tower (Princeton, NJ)
I left my career as a chef years ago for what were mostly practical reasons, but also for idealistic ones. The restaurant business is a dirty one in many ways, exploitative and dishonest. Try as we might have to build relationships with local and organic producers, offer health care to all employees and do some good in the world through benefits and advocacy, the feeling that we were producing luxury goods for an affluent (or relatively so) clientele never went away. I am thrilled that a new generation is trying to overcome that disparity. Congratulations to them.
Donna Gray (Louisa, Va)
What if these celebrity chef's paid wages high enough to attract local workers? Fifty years ago restaurants paid salaries high enough to attract local residents, both white and black. However during the Reagan years the owners decided not to increase wages to keep those workers. Instead they were replaced by undocumented Latin Americans who had no choice but to accept them. There is no such thing as a job Americans won't do! (Who cleans sewage treatment plants for example?). The only question is the compensation needed to attract them. Many of these fancy restaurants charge $100/diner and up! Their customers obviously will pay! The whole concept of undocumented workers was for the rich to get services cheaper than if they had to employ American citizens. That also applies to the lawn care of their estates and the care of their children!
Really (Boston, MA)
Great comment.

Yeah, these chefs certainly don't want to talk labor politics, in which they may have to examine their own complicity in exploiting workers though.
Larry G (NY NY)
Let us not forget that Donald Trump imports foreign Workers for his Mar Lago overpriced dump and for the family Winery. Don't know much about the Winery but there are plenty of American Workers available to work at Mar Lago in Florida. They just might not be the white Europeans that Trump seems to prefer. If he wants to bring jobs to America he has at least those two places to start. This does not include all of his companies that make clothes all over the world. but not in the USA. Also Ivanka's Chinese made clothing line. Phony hypocrites much?
Molly (Livingston Manor, NY)
So the reality of this mean spirited policy is beginning to hit society where it hurts the most. The economy "stupid" especially our food economy which without Latino immigrants, documented or not are feeding our bellies and our agricultural economy as well. Exploitation of immigrant workers has been a tradition in America. One would have thought that by the 21st Century with all the various media, internet and travel experiences of today's society that we have grown to enjoy and appreciate diversity that immigrants bring to the USA. And moreover are we beginning to understand that what made this country great was that it was built on the backs of immigrants. From subways, coal mines, sweat shops, domestic services and work in agricultural and all its related industries we would have no economy. One of the chef reasons for the exodus of industry and manufacturing from the United States is the lack of a labor force which is really willing and able to do this type of work.
Chris (Paris, France)
"And moreover are we beginning to understand that what made this country great was that it was built on the backs of immigrants. From subways, coal mines, sweat shops, domestic services and work in agricultural and all its related industries we would have no economy. One of the chef reasons for the exodus of industry and manufacturing from the United States is the lack of a labor force which is really willing and able to do this type of work."

So much idiocy in this post; yet it reflects the efficiency of the current dominant propaganda on people willing to accept it as fact, and not question any of the aspects that don't add up. Americans and assimilated Immigrants have made the US the desirable society to immigrate to it was (and still is to some extent). The fact that so many manufacturing jobs have been outsourced isn't because Americans are too lazy or stupid to perform them, but because there are workers in other countries desperate enough for any means of subsistence to be paid pennies on the dollar for the same job, either in their home countries or smuggled into the US.
Mary (Atlanta)
I believe Americans do appreciate the diverse culture brought to daily lives via immigration. However, immigrants are not the same as illegal immigrants (or undocumented immigrants). We have kids brought into the US by parents; those kids did not make the decision to come here. It's a complicated issue, an issue that strikes a highly emotional reaction by many.

In the end, we cannot tolerate open borders. There must be a rule of law - this exists in every other country. Somehow it is wrong when we get to the individual stories. Wrong to uphold laws because of the negative impact it has on individuals and families.

I read comments in the NYTimes every time there is an article on immigration (aka illegal immigration). People scream that it happens because rich people want lower wage workers - "we need e-verify!" Then, if e-verify were mandated, the same people would be screaming that illegal immigrants would have no way to make a living and that they were discriminated against. Then, those that are illegal need/get welfare, healthcare, etc. Certainly we cannot forsake these people and families, but which is it - employ via e-verify and stop those bad rich people from taking advantage of the large number of illegal immigrants, or continue to ignore illegal immigrants employed in the food industry, farms, landscape, and homecare industries? What ever happened to green cards and Visas and enforcement? You want enforcement, and then you don't? Winners and losers?
AF Veteran (NYC)
Interesting, timely article. As a novice "foodie" who lives in NYC and likes to experience as many new and interesting restaurants as possible I applaud the owners/chefs in this article who have designated their restaurants as participating in the sanctuary restaurant movement. In a time when restaurants have to struggle with high rents, regulations, minimum wage, etc. it is refreshing that sanctuary has become a movement in the restaurant industry. I am not aware of a restaurant that I dine at in my area that participates in the movement but hopefully they will once the movement gains attention.
SpecialKinNJ (NJ)
Those involved in the Sanctuary Restaurant Movement should be aware that contrary to precedent, the T rump administrat ion appears to be committed to enforcement of immigration law, including 1907. Title 8, U.S.C. 1324(a) Offenses Title 8, U.S.C.
1324(a) defines several distinct offenses related to aliens. Subsection 1324(a)(1)(i)-(v) prohibits alien smuggling, domestic transportation , concealing or harboring, or inducing unauthorized aliens to enter the United States, and engaging in a conspiracy or aiding and abetting any of the preceding acts. Subsection 1324(a)(2) prohibits bringing or attempting to bring unauthorized aliens to the United States in any manner whatsoever..
More specifically, as edited for submission, a person who, knowing an alien is illegal, does the following will be deemed in violation of law:
Subsection 1324(a)(1)(A)(ii) -- transports, or moves or attempts to transport or move such alien within the United States by means of transportation or otherwise . .
Subsection 1324(a)(1)(A)(iii). . shields an illegal alien from detection, or attempts to do so, in any place, including any building or any means of transportation.
Subsection 1324(a)(1)(A)(iv) encourages or induces an alien to come to, enter, or reside in the United States.
Subsection 1324(a)(1)(A)(v) expressly makes it an offense to engage in a conspiracy to commit or aid or abet the commission of the foregoing offenses.
Is an organized movement a conspiracy? Quien sabe.
Thanos Perl (DC)
If you pick a side in any debate, you will offend the other side. No matter which side you choose you will lose out. There are other ways to be politically active (and you should be) that don't include putting your business and employees at financial risk. The food business is tough enough, don't make it tougher.
maire martello (nyc)
All over NYC and NJ you see restaurants that are out of business for various reasons. Why add politics to the menu of business closings?