Small Cheese Makers Invest in a Stinky Science

Feb 06, 2017 · 51 comments
Brendan (Singapore)
presumably all these newly discovered organisms will be patentable....
Andrew Mitchell (Seattle)
Costco sells Jasper Hill cheddar $9/lb.
Cabot cheese is made 15 miles from Greensboro.
Hill Farmstead Brewery, also in Greensboro, Vt,, has been voted the best brewery in the US in several competitions.
Pete;s Greens, a large organic grower, stated nearby in Craftsbury, Vt.
Mogwai (CT)
Thank Dog!

So sick of 'american cheese'. That pathetic excuse for a milquetoast cheddar.

But honestly isn't that what america has always been about? A few true-blue lefties push the envelope against a rightward corporate product. Without them the US would be pure mediocrity and bland...
skiplusse (montreal)
The reason why the best cheeses are made in Quebec, across the border from Vermont, is that our cheesemakers went to France to learn the trade. Instead of reinventing everything, they could have hired a consultant from Quebec that speaks english.
Next time you come to visit, go to a fromagerie and buy 5 differents sort of fine cheeses from Quebec ( they have a blue lily flower trademark) and I assure you, you will bring back some of them home.
Dr. Nephron (Boston)
They do genomic analysis of the bacteria in Quebec and France? Give me a break.....
sjs (bridgeport, ct)
Awesome! Not only do we get more and better things to eat, the dairy industry/family farms in Vermont gets helped. Win/Win.
William O. Beeman (Minneapolis, Minnesota)
I long for the day when we will have a fine soft raw milk cheese in the United States. A great raw milk camembert or reblochon is one of the finest things in the universe. The French CAN do it and make it safe.

http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/08/12/339858426/unlocking-franc...

(above article also references Dr. Dutton)

We are making great strides in cheesemaking in the United States, but conquering the art of making safe raw milk cheese in all of its wonderful forms is still on the horizon.

Onward! One day we WILL succeed!
teoc2 (Oregon)
nice that a scientific study confirms what cheese makers like Cowgirl Creamery in Pt. Reyes Station California have known empirically for a quarter century and European cheese makers have known for centuries.
Mary Hogan (Maine)
If you want great cheese from Jasper Hill, it can be delivered to many regions of US. We have received their cheeses here in Maine via overnight mail, delivered in handsome packaging. We have sent to friends who have been delighted to receive such a delicious gift. Cheeses from Jasper Hill and surrounding farms are available on their website. Their's is an interesting story from the NE Kingdom. Bless them for their hard work. PS I hope I do not sound like promo coming from the White House or Fox News! Bon Appetit!
moosemaps (Vermont)
The article, while good, does not quite get at the true flavor of the Kehler brothers and their cheese. These two guys are hugely skilled, hardworking and ambitious, and they make many cheeses that are off the charts good. They make some of the best food I know of in....well....the world. When their cheese is perfect, and it often is, it is perfection. It is also very expensive, for good reason, and for us is a very special treat, not a regular purchase. Also, by Vermont terms, Jasper Hill is huge! Lots of money and talent comes into Vermont because of those two fellas. I love that I can expect new concoctions from this talented far-reaching crew. If you want to forget about the demented greedy monsters taking over Washington, have a bit of Jasper Hill cheese with some good bread and good wine or beer. Better than a hot bath on a cold stormy night. Ok, have it in the bath.
Walt Quade (Portland Oregon)
French Camembert has been made for hundreds of years from un-pasteurized milk with not a single fatality that I know of. Why do the Americans insist on trying to make good cheese from dead milk.
shineybraids (Paradise)
California has some great small cheese makers. Would suggest looking on line for cheese from other areas.

California also has a number of "Farm Trails". These are maps that show the location of local Ag business. There are wineries, olive growers, lavender farms and a variety of other products. Of course, cheese may show up in the Farmer's Market.

The UC Davis Mondavi food institute has a beer and cheese pairing event every year. I was lucky to get in the first year but after that it has sold out immediately. Local schools may also be a source for information on producers.
Ron (Florida)
There's a lesson here for the U.S. economy here. Instead of trying to compete with China and others making commodity goods, let's innovate by developing new, quality goods. Vermont ice-cream makers and cheese makers have turned a dairy industry that use to rely on price-controlled milk into a profitable business.
R. Scholten (Weybridge VT)
Mateo & Andy are the epitome of the American dream. Hard working, generous, intelligent, salt of the earth Vermonters. Look for their cheese, it may be the best you ever taste.
JPh C. (USA)
Some US stores ( Trader Joes ) sell a so called " Goat Brie ".
But there were never any goats in Brie which is a region of France with thick green grass. You raise goats were there is nothing to eat (dry climate ) and they can climb on trees for food.
Brie is a region of fat cows producing rich milk for a famous cheese.
Why Americans can think that they can use the culture of other places with history and tatse and change it to their interest just to make money by using the fame of others ?
Also I see at TJ "Parmesan Cheese " made in the US .I though Parmigiano was protected ? But how can we sue every copyright infringement .Poor people in Italy or Europe cannot fight the big US corporations cheating. They cannot hire the lawyers. But try to open a Mac Gonad hamburger restaurant on the Champs Elysees and you have an army of American lawyers coming after you.
Scientist (Boston)
"Parmesan cheese" is not the protected name in Italy-it is Parmagiano Reggiano. Parmesan is a style of cheese. Interestingly, Trader Joe's has a grated "imported parmesan" which is not from Italy because it doesn't cost enough. The "Imported Parmesan" in this case is probably a cheese called Reggianito, which comes from Argentina. You can tell the difference because real Parmagiano Reggiano costs $30 a pound and up.

In the case of the goat Brie, the name can also describe a style of cheese. as well as a place. I think there are even French cheeses called Brie that are not from the Brie region.
what me worry (nyc)
TJ is not the best place for cheese. I prefer Key Food for things like edam and jarelsberg.There is goat brie in France -- has been for years. Zabar's for more exotic brands. sometimes Westside Market is good.. Every purveyor has his/her day. I would be happy to make fresh mozzarella or a chevre.
OstePerler (Oslo)
Parmesan, which is a French name for Parmigiano Reggiano, is a protected name for PR in all of Europe. None of the PR producers will call their cheese Parmesan, of course, and for all others it is forbidden to use it. Parmesan means "from Parma" in French. It is not protected in the rest of the world, so any American cheese maker can call a cheese Parmesan.
As to Brie, true Brie is made in the Île de France area, but copies are made all over the place. Same applies to Camembert. Only Camembert de Normandie is a true Camembert.
JPh C. (USA)
See the documentary about the "mother " of a Connecticut convent ( with a PHD in biology ) that was making cheese with the advice of a French lady and with a French wooden cask,until the US Health dept ordered her to use stainless steel,saying that wood was unsafe.After using the stainless cask,the nuns had the milk turn because of a bad bacteria.The "mother " started analyzing (with her PHD in biology )the content of the stainless and wooden cask and found out that the wood was harboring bacterias that were fighting the bad fungus then keeping the cheese growth safe. She could argue that withthe US Dept and was authorized to revert to the wooden process.
Jackie Baird (MT-FL-NC)
That woman's story and struggles for traditional cheesemaking technique are delightfully told in the documentary "The Cheese Nun"; I rented or streamed it (twice !) from Netflix. It's purely marvelous.
PacNW (Cascadia)
The cows are constantly impregnated, to make them lactate, and then their babies are stolen from them after birth so humans can steal the milk that nature intended for the calves. The mothers cry for up to five days after their babies are stolen. The male babies of the high-milk-producing variety are useless so they go to the veal crates. The female babies follow their mothers into milk slavery. The mother's milk production slows down while she is still young, so she goes to the slaughterhouse and has her neck slashed open.

Choose ethics over indulgence.
Jen in Astoria (<br/>)
Not all dairy operations are run that way. Choose research and facts over knee jerk self righteous hype.
Kim (<br/>)
We need free transparency in this industry, and all the animal ags. I want to know as much about the lives of the cows as I do about the flavor of the cheese/milk/ice cream/yogurt. There must be a way to do this responsibly. Prices go up? They should! It's expensive to care for animals properly. A race to the bottom on prices for products involving animals is wrong in so many ways and it needs to stop.
Jackie Baird (MT-FL-NC)
I believe you are describing - emotionally but fairly accurately - industrial factory farming. Other options can be had, and if they're supported,may thrive to provide us Real Food.
Mark (<br/>)
Bayley hazen is one of my favorite all time cheeses. Many Chefs, including April Bloomfield expose its virtues. I just used it in a wedge salad with home made dressing and it was glorious. Vermont is a treasure and makes some of the best cheese in the world. Give us a few more years and we'll be giving the French some serious competition on the world stage.
HN (Philadelphia)
Just an encouragement for those who love cheese - if possible, buy your local cheeses! I try to find mine at local farmer's markets, where I can follow how the taste of the cheese changes over the seasons. These local businesses need our support so that they can thrive!
sstroud215 (Atlanta)
While not strictly Germaine to this article, it should be noted that Jasper Hill helps a number of other regional cheesemakers by aging their cheese in Jasper Hill's caves.
It's a truly impressive operation.
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Kudos, Ms. Zimberoff! The lack of appreciation of good cheese has for a very long time been a sore point of Usan (= American) gastronomy. Perhaps the cheese makers, such as those described in the article, will be able to instill a love of decent cheese into the nation of hamburgers with ketchup and tomatoes.
nancy (Riner, VA)
As a famous person was misheard saying: Blessed are the cheese makers!
sapereaudeprime (Searsmont, Maine 04973)
In the last decade of the 19th century, Maine produced over a million pounds of cheese a year. Today: ?? In the last decade of the 19th century, there were over one hundred farms in our town, each of which had some milk cows. Today there are none. A century ago our woodlot was a cow pasture and a hayfield. What happened?
MGA (NYC)
I would guess that the original farmers cut down the native forest, planted grass until the soil was too depleted to support pasture & grazing cows, so moved out west to repeat the operation (creating the dust bowl)
doug mclaren (seattle)
Also, financial collapse of late 19th century, mass foreclosures, abandonment of farms and pastures, depopulation as people migrated away and eventually reversion of pastureland back to forest. Much of which was rendered commercially useless by disease and infestation that ruined is quality as lumber.
bud (portland)
you left out the part where the helpless maiden was tied to the railroad tracks.
Frank (Oz)
Having been to the origin of Roquefort cheese in France - Roquefort sur Soulzon - https://goo.gl/maps/5Mbfdhx1MjE2 (there are 3 other towns and 1 commune called Roquefort in France) - I was just wondering about the Penicillin mould in Roquefort - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penicillium_roqueforti - and then I thought - hang on - I had skin tests telling me I was allergic to penicillin as a child - and my whole life (now retired) I've told doctors I'm allergic to penicillin - but yet I've eaten lots of Roquefort and never had a problem - hey maybe it cured me !
Connor (Bushwick)
Penicillum Roqueforti shares a similar name with the antibiotic Penicillin, but is only a distant cousin (luckily for you!).
Pam Shira Fleetman (Acton, Massachusetts)
Where can we buy Jasper Hill Farm's cheeses?
Steve T (NBew Jersey)
Google them. You can buy direct.
Hippy Dippy (Vermont)
I think Whole Foods may have.
Good Eater (MA)
Whole Foods
Konstantinos Papamichalopoulos (Athens, Greece)
Wish more Greek farmers were more like some of their American counterparts and not so ignorant and/or technophobic - although these traits seem to be endemic in Greek culture...
Mary Ann (Seattle)
I expect 'artisanal' food to be expensive. But the locally-produced craft cheeses of the Pacific NW are in the stratosphere. Now I have more insight as to why. Thanks for an interesting article.
Connor (Bushwick)
Mateo and Andy are tireless pioneers in the cheese industry. As a native Vermonter, and a current cheese professional, their operation exists in my mind as the pinnacle of curiosity, adventure, and innovation. It is to their credit that they would disagree with me - I have never seen them take their foot off the gas, driving their agendas for raw milk acceptance, sustainable husbandry, and deliciousness with relentless energy. It isn't a single cheese, nor their brand, not the revitalization of the dairy industry in the Northeast Kingdom and beyond - it is the whole gestalt that inspires us.
Victoria (Glenburn PA)
Well said!
Sera Stephen (The Village)
Vermont makes, in my opinion, the best cheeses in America. But, cuisine is a dialogue, it cannot exist in a vacuum. The best products are of no use if the public for them doesn’t exist. We, as a nation, are no more ready for great cheeses than a ten year old is ready for Rimbaud. It’s not to be condescending that I say this, only that it takes time, and learning to appreciate refined culture, and the tendency of our producers to accommodate the lovers of American (so-called), cheese, (who came out in force to a comment I made last week), will handicap our best efforts. I say this in support of the fine cheese makers profiled here.

Or, as the great ‘nose’ Luca Turin has said:

“the idea that things should be slightly dirty, overripe, slightly fecal is everywhere in France.” Given a great cheese, says he, Americans think, “Good God!”; Japanese think, “I must now commit suicide”; and the French think, “Where’s the bread?”
polymath (British Columbia)
I would have liked to know the names of some cheeses that these people are interested in making.

My love of cheese flowered during a year when I lived in France, and the cheese made in North America don't come anywhere close to the wide variety available in France. It would be great if the gap could be narrowed to any appreciable extent!
Connor (Bushwick)
I would disagree quite completely with your assessment of the state of American Cheese! If you are in fact interested in cheese, I would suggest that you visit one of the fantastic cheese shops in the city and ask the first monger you see for a tour of the incredible breadth of deliciousness that U.S. cheesemakers are currently turning out.
Chris B (<br/>)
I've lived in Switzerland and France, and I also disagree with you. I've eaten wonderful American cheeses. There's no need for them to emulate French varieties; good local style is the whole point.

If you're interested in the Jasper Hill cheeses, check out their informative web site.
ThirdThots (Here)
Interesting farm (I wish you well) and interesting article.
Thank-you
Joy (<br/>)
American cheese is where American wine was fifteen years ago.
Lisa Petrie (Peterborough, NH)
The Bayley Hazen Blue is second to none! A real crowd-pleaser when I take it to parties. I love what Jasper Hill is doing for diary farmers in the Northeast Kingdom, and for those of us who love to eat cheese!
Asena Sahutoglu (New York)
How great is it when a CEO is actually hands on with his own products and works for the integrity and food safety of their product. I am a cheese lover so cannot wait to try it!