For those of us who are doing this series after the fact, I wish that when we click on an article in the series list, the new page would be opened in a new window so that we can go back to the original page where we left off and not have to keep clicking on "show more" to get to where we were.
Recently had a bottle of 2013 Soter Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir from the Yamhill-Carlton Appellation in the Willamette Valley. Very good wine, not hugely fruit forward like many other pinots, the wine had a nose of rose, cherry, and boysenberry. Black Cherry, raspberry, lavender, and a dark chocolate/cola finish on the palate. Paired really well with bacon wrapped pork tenderloin.
Other notable producers I like from Oregon include Boedecker Cellars, Cristom, and Antica Terra. One of the best regions in the world for PN!
We tasted three pinot noir from Oregon -- 2014 Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills; 2013 Eyrie Vineyards; and for comparison a wine that was one-third the price of the Drouhin -- 2014 O.P.P. (Other People's Pinot). For dinner we had herbed pork roast, roasted potatoes and apple walnut salad.
We were startled to find that we preferred these wines in reverse order of price. The Drouhin had a medicinal smell and no distinctive taste -- there was no fruit to speak of. It was lighter-bodied than expected and was very disappointing. In hindsight, we did not decant these wines before tasting them so we did not give them a chance to open up but this one did not improve in the glass.
The Eyrie Vineyards was a considerable improvement over the Drouhin. It had a steely aroma. The taste was earthy with a hint of cherry. It was tart with more body and seemed well-balanced and had a light finish.
The one with the most character was the O.P.P. It had an earthy bouquet with a tart, black cherry taste and was more tannic than the other two. Not bad for a $14 bottle of wine.
We were startled to find that we preferred these wines in reverse order of price. The Drouhin had a medicinal smell and no distinctive taste -- there was no fruit to speak of. It was lighter-bodied than expected and was very disappointing. In hindsight, we did not decant these wines before tasting them so we did not give them a chance to open up but this one did not improve in the glass.
The Eyrie Vineyards was a considerable improvement over the Drouhin. It had a steely aroma. The taste was earthy with a hint of cherry. It was tart with more body and seemed well-balanced and had a light finish.
The one with the most character was the O.P.P. It had an earthy bouquet with a tart, black cherry taste and was more tannic than the other two. Not bad for a $14 bottle of wine.
With the predictable absence of any of the recommended wines in our Toronto stores, we found a Solena 2012 Hyland from the Wiilamette Valley and a 2013 Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills.
We began with the Solena, which had rich bouquet of dark fruit and berries. Pepper and spices were also detected, with a "barnyard" earthiness emerging as the wine opened in the glass. In the mouth our group found the Solena well-rounded and jammy, with hint of plums and even beets. All agreed that the finish was smooth and lingering.
Next up was the 2013 Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills. This one aroused our curiosity because of the Drouhin family's roots in the vineyards of Burgundy.
One member of our foursome remarked that it was not an "obvious" pinot noir in that it was less peppery and not as fruity in the nose as the Solena. In the mouth the wine was described as having "heat," by which he meant that the pepper and spice missing in the nose was very present in the taste. Notes of dark fruit (cherries, plums, black berries) were also evident. The finish "goes on and on" was how one member of our group put it, while another comment was that the Drouhin's finish had a chocolatey silkiness.
It was a very pleasant introduction to Oregon pinot noirs.
We began with the Solena, which had rich bouquet of dark fruit and berries. Pepper and spices were also detected, with a "barnyard" earthiness emerging as the wine opened in the glass. In the mouth our group found the Solena well-rounded and jammy, with hint of plums and even beets. All agreed that the finish was smooth and lingering.
Next up was the 2013 Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills. This one aroused our curiosity because of the Drouhin family's roots in the vineyards of Burgundy.
One member of our foursome remarked that it was not an "obvious" pinot noir in that it was less peppery and not as fruity in the nose as the Solena. In the mouth the wine was described as having "heat," by which he meant that the pepper and spice missing in the nose was very present in the taste. Notes of dark fruit (cherries, plums, black berries) were also evident. The finish "goes on and on" was how one member of our group put it, while another comment was that the Drouhin's finish had a chocolatey silkiness.
It was a very pleasant introduction to Oregon pinot noirs.
I live in McMinnville, Oregon and was here when the pinot grapes were first planted. Since then I have tasted a lot of good wine. My favorite is Willakenzie. How could you not even mention them? Cristom wines are also truly excellent.
We first learned about Oregon pinot noir at a seminar on terroir run across the road from the Yale Geology Department. At the end of the talk came dinner and a blind wine tasting of about six different wines. A couple at our table were awful wine snobs and predicted every wine that tasted great was, of course, French with California, first runner-up, and the Pacific Northwest doomed to be bridesmaids. Of course, they had the order exactly backwards.
Since then we have had lots of Oregon pinot noir. Only Three Degrees hit neither of us where we lived. Adelsheim, Ponzi, Drouhin, Ken Wright, and Willamette Valley Vineyards produce wines that always taste great with food or drunk separately. The wines are not too heavy or jammy; they have subtlety and depth. I used to wonder if people really could taste all of those flavors and aromas they claimed. Not with these wines, and I am not a bloodhound.
True confession: right now we really like Johanneshof Reinisch 2014 from Austria a whole lot. In the end, I guess pinot noir is our favorite red wine with lots of bridesmaids vying for its garter. And Oregon bats cleanup, to mix metaphors.
Since then we have had lots of Oregon pinot noir. Only Three Degrees hit neither of us where we lived. Adelsheim, Ponzi, Drouhin, Ken Wright, and Willamette Valley Vineyards produce wines that always taste great with food or drunk separately. The wines are not too heavy or jammy; they have subtlety and depth. I used to wonder if people really could taste all of those flavors and aromas they claimed. Not with these wines, and I am not a bloodhound.
True confession: right now we really like Johanneshof Reinisch 2014 from Austria a whole lot. In the end, I guess pinot noir is our favorite red wine with lots of bridesmaids vying for its garter. And Oregon bats cleanup, to mix metaphors.
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For Big Table Farm 2014 I broiled pork chops again (pig on bottle gave the idea). Aromatic nose of cherries. I tasted cherry and chalk. Wife claimed she tasted cherry and cranberries. We both tasted coke. I missed the wonderful earthyness of Montinore. We both agreed it wasn't our favorite. Too sweet, Californian, jammy I thought. Same dish and the 3 degrees. What an odd smell. Wife claimed first it reminded her of acetone. I thought of anisol first. Then it was bringing vacation memories of a mix-your-own-perfume shop (fragrances by weight and artificial flowers).
Adelsheim Elizabeth Reserve 2012 we tried with our Mushroom Lasagna. It worked out perfectly. Mellow, deep, dark cherry fruit very harmonious and integrated. This one was our favorite together with the Montinore.
Adelsheim Elizabeth Reserve 2012 we tried with our Mushroom Lasagna. It worked out perfectly. Mellow, deep, dark cherry fruit very harmonious and integrated. This one was our favorite together with the Montinore.
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I noticed the same unpleasant ketonic smell (and taste) with my bottle of 3 degrees. The Montinore was my favorite, and very food-friendly.
My wife and I had Oregon Adelsheim 2011 with center cut pork chop, broiled in cast iron, Bittmann style (lemon, olive oil, salt pepper). I described it as earthy, but aromatic. It expressed some flower aroma (violets?). It faintly reminded me of the marsannay challenge. My wife claimed it made her think of rainy Oregon, and the mushroom fields. She described the wine as mellow It really makes her want that mushroom pasta I was talking about (Mushroom Lasagna http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1014128-mushroom-lasagna).
We were lucky enough to acquire a nice mix of chanterelles, oyster, maitake and shiitake mushrooms and found all the ingredients except the chestnuts. We were able to grab the Montenore Estate 2014 while we were shopping as well. The Lasagna turned out so well I have been ordered to remake it the following to weekends. The Montinore bright cherry with a hint of marzipan in contrast to earthy wood floor, there is some oak here too, in a good way. We both liked the earthy savory food wine experience. Days later I would think of the flavors of the dish as fall colors, like in this picture I took on the Blue Ridge Parkway years ago (https://flic.kr/p/dmUgm7). The dish further improved with the addition of truffle oil to the Béchamel sauce and bluefoot and frenchhorn mushrooms to the mushroom mix.
We were lucky enough to acquire a nice mix of chanterelles, oyster, maitake and shiitake mushrooms and found all the ingredients except the chestnuts. We were able to grab the Montenore Estate 2014 while we were shopping as well. The Lasagna turned out so well I have been ordered to remake it the following to weekends. The Montinore bright cherry with a hint of marzipan in contrast to earthy wood floor, there is some oak here too, in a good way. We both liked the earthy savory food wine experience. Days later I would think of the flavors of the dish as fall colors, like in this picture I took on the Blue Ridge Parkway years ago (https://flic.kr/p/dmUgm7). The dish further improved with the addition of truffle oil to the Béchamel sauce and bluefoot and frenchhorn mushrooms to the mushroom mix.
3
I couldn't find the wines assigned, but I found two other 2014 from Willamette Valley. The first was a recommendation from my trusted local wine store: a 2014 Seven of Hearts. This was a delicious wine, and following Mr. Asimov's recommendation for a good food pairing, we kept it simple. Coho salmon, marinated with soy sauce, lemon juice, butter, and sugar and roasted for about fifteen minutes. Pacific salmon with Pacific wine. What grows together goes together, right? Yes. The wine was definitely not from Burgundy, and that's not a bad thing. Everything from the color to the nose announced that this was not a French wine: it is a bit darker, and the nose much less barny. At 13.2%, it seemed just right (but my guess is that the alcohol was higher than that). It was solid, a hearty wine, but not punchy or robust. I wouldn’t call it fruity by any means. The second Willamette Valley wine we tried was a 2014 Domaine Drouhin from Dundee Hills. As expected, it leaned more towards Burgundy, but not in a parodic way. It is a bit more burly than what I usually like in Pinot Noir, but it doesn't disappoint. It is its own thing, barn and fruit happily married. Keeping the food-wine pairing simple, we made one of our favorites: Mark Bittman's simple roast chicken (though we added bacon and some aromatics to the cavity). It was a splendid combination.
Served first, the Montinore Estate offered a medium nose of cedar, spice box and black cherry. Its structure and balance rendered itself to be an excellent pairing with the beech mushroom lamb loin served with it. We remarked how this pairing made the wine taste even brighter.
The Maysara three degrees had a flavor of cherry and black pepper that was supple and somewhat fruit forward. We considered it a straight up good Pinot with a dry solid lengthy finish. It was our favorite wine and when served with a pork short rib we felt it a good combination but not as stellar as the first pairing.
The Big Table Farm had the most complex nose of them all. We noted briar, rose petal, and orange rind. The body of the wine reminded us of a syrah although the flavor fell flat at the finish. When served with a smoked duck breast we noted the wine did not change. This wine is probably best served alone. We noted the distinctive label and found out one of the owners is an artist who designs her own labels.
-George Erdle, Harper’s Fine Dining – Charlotte, NC
The Maysara three degrees had a flavor of cherry and black pepper that was supple and somewhat fruit forward. We considered it a straight up good Pinot with a dry solid lengthy finish. It was our favorite wine and when served with a pork short rib we felt it a good combination but not as stellar as the first pairing.
The Big Table Farm had the most complex nose of them all. We noted briar, rose petal, and orange rind. The body of the wine reminded us of a syrah although the flavor fell flat at the finish. When served with a smoked duck breast we noted the wine did not change. This wine is probably best served alone. We noted the distinctive label and found out one of the owners is an artist who designs her own labels.
-George Erdle, Harper’s Fine Dining – Charlotte, NC
there were 12 of us for dinner (roast chicken, twice-baked potatoes, green bean casserole) and the star of the show, w. v. pinot noir. dessert was home-made cherry pie and the first presidential debate. all good. the pinot was light enough to go well with the chicken but heavy enough to please those in the group that go for the big reds. we had 5 different bottles, $18-$38. all very similar except for the level of tanins. i got to finish the dregs the next day with the left-overs. still good, maybe great. looking forward to tonight's debate. fortunately i'm a hillary fan or i'd be curled into the fetal position in the corner.
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Lighter body. One dimensional aroma -- pepper, vinegary, currant. Drank with what was for dinner -- tacos -- which was neither bad Nor good pairing.
This was a lesson I was ready for. Eric has written in the past about Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, especially the 2011s. The Montinore Estate, is a favorite of ours. Another favorite is the chicken recipe Eric suggested although at this time of year I make it with leeks and scallions instead of ramps. It was perfect with the wine. My husband is unable to drink alcohol at the moment so my friend Carol came over to have chicken and pinot noir. When poured in a glass you could see the difference in color between the three. The Big Table Farm was darker. And richer. These wines are not as heavy as other reds but that is in their favor. I think it makes them more versatile and enjoyable. Aroma-wise they are definitely complex; again the Big Table Farm gave off the most mixed aromas. They went beautifully with the roast chicken but I have had pinot noir with pizza and pasta and egg dishes and I think it goes well with many foods. Carol thought the Big Table Farm would be great with chocolate, the mix of spice and rose hips and pepper would go well with good dark chocolate. I prefer to enjoy chocolate and wine separately.
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This month’s trio were like points on a triangle, like and unalike along different axes. Our third was the Big Table Farm.
In structure (if I use the word correctly) it and 3˚ were similar, each, as Ali, noted, offering up a shifting array of flavors both pronounced and fleeting. By contrast, the ’13 Montinore was murkier, more blend than tapestry. Of the BTF and 3˚, the former’s tastes were more masculine, more finely chiseled, and more varied. Besides the expected berry, a minty cinnamon leapt out. Also baking spice. I missed Rick’s “mocha icing,” but I can believe it.
Texturally, the BTF stood apart: crystalline, clean and bright. At one point I was struck by an odd chalky freshness; at another, by a liveliness on the tongue, as if effervescent, but with not a hint of bubbles. You could taste the money.
In self-assurance, the BTF and M were more similar. They “were what they were.” By contrast, the 3˚ seemed more “intended to be.” The first two also seemed more woodsy.
Between BTF and M, the latter was more easy-going, and the more satisfying food companion. It sang in harmony; the BTF was more the featured soloist. The BTF was fascinating, and impressive. The M was my favorite.
BTF pairing tidbits: With dark, sautéed mushrooms, it was glaringly bright and overwhelming. With rich, double crème brie (thanks, VSB), fresh and invigorating. And—decadence alert—with crispy, oily, roast chicken skin, pure fruit-meets-fat deliciousness.
In structure (if I use the word correctly) it and 3˚ were similar, each, as Ali, noted, offering up a shifting array of flavors both pronounced and fleeting. By contrast, the ’13 Montinore was murkier, more blend than tapestry. Of the BTF and 3˚, the former’s tastes were more masculine, more finely chiseled, and more varied. Besides the expected berry, a minty cinnamon leapt out. Also baking spice. I missed Rick’s “mocha icing,” but I can believe it.
Texturally, the BTF stood apart: crystalline, clean and bright. At one point I was struck by an odd chalky freshness; at another, by a liveliness on the tongue, as if effervescent, but with not a hint of bubbles. You could taste the money.
In self-assurance, the BTF and M were more similar. They “were what they were.” By contrast, the 3˚ seemed more “intended to be.” The first two also seemed more woodsy.
Between BTF and M, the latter was more easy-going, and the more satisfying food companion. It sang in harmony; the BTF was more the featured soloist. The BTF was fascinating, and impressive. The M was my favorite.
BTF pairing tidbits: With dark, sautéed mushrooms, it was glaringly bright and overwhelming. With rich, double crème brie (thanks, VSB), fresh and invigorating. And—decadence alert—with crispy, oily, roast chicken skin, pure fruit-meets-fat deliciousness.
Late to this column and the comments but lucky enough to have tasted at Beaux-Freres and Ponzi back in May. It was my first but hopefully not last trip to the Willamette Valley. I came home with 2 excellent bottles of wine that were the most expensive wines I've ever purchased. I'm a fan of PN but wouldn't have considered spending $100+ on it until I tasted at BF. I will look out for the recommended bottles, thank you!
1
Maybe you could do a column on Washington Syrah in the future?
Or, even further north, Tantalus Vineyards' Pinot Noir from Kelowna, on the shores of Okanagan Lake in British Columbia... astonishingly fine.
1
Southern Oregon pinot noir! DanCin, Irvine Family, South Stage Cellars, Foris, etc. It is a well-kept secret that southern Oregon pinot noir grapes are regularly trucked to the Willamette Valley to blend with underripe Willamette Valley grapes.
Writing from my email correspondence with my friend Dan.
Found the three examples of the Oregon Pinot significantly different from one another. We had them over three different nights with wild grilled salmon, rotisserie chicken, and sushi.
Surprisingly 3˚was our least favorite. I'm not quite sure why, but I didn't like its "smoothness" combined with smokey and dominant herby notes as much as I enjoyed the fruit-forward and bright acidity of the Montinore. Its straightforwardness and simplicity I found youthful and joyful. It matched my go-to meal of a grilled salmon and garden salad.
In 3˚ Nana detected fragrance of plum and cherry; and tasted grapefruit skin and raisins. Surprisingly it paired quite well with vegan sushi wrapped in seaweed and sushi rice dressed with toasted sesame seeds.
Big Table Farm won our hearts. Aromatic, it emanated floral and perfumed notes; restrained at first, savory with a whiff of a fresh cucumber. It was elegant and continuously evolving as dinner went on. I loved how it transformed, from more restrained savory flavors to fruity, and back and forth, exuding flavor nuances in between as it warmed up. It literally warmed the palate and lingered. And as it "warmed up" our taste buds we kept coming back to this wine and experiencing it more intimately, like an interesting painting that got and held your attention.
The next day, Rick said that it reminded him of a mocha icing: "icing on the mocha cake that my father loves."
Thanks Dan.
Found the three examples of the Oregon Pinot significantly different from one another. We had them over three different nights with wild grilled salmon, rotisserie chicken, and sushi.
Surprisingly 3˚was our least favorite. I'm not quite sure why, but I didn't like its "smoothness" combined with smokey and dominant herby notes as much as I enjoyed the fruit-forward and bright acidity of the Montinore. Its straightforwardness and simplicity I found youthful and joyful. It matched my go-to meal of a grilled salmon and garden salad.
In 3˚ Nana detected fragrance of plum and cherry; and tasted grapefruit skin and raisins. Surprisingly it paired quite well with vegan sushi wrapped in seaweed and sushi rice dressed with toasted sesame seeds.
Big Table Farm won our hearts. Aromatic, it emanated floral and perfumed notes; restrained at first, savory with a whiff of a fresh cucumber. It was elegant and continuously evolving as dinner went on. I loved how it transformed, from more restrained savory flavors to fruity, and back and forth, exuding flavor nuances in between as it warmed up. It literally warmed the palate and lingered. And as it "warmed up" our taste buds we kept coming back to this wine and experiencing it more intimately, like an interesting painting that got and held your attention.
The next day, Rick said that it reminded him of a mocha icing: "icing on the mocha cake that my father loves."
Thanks Dan.
3
Our September wine school dinner was scheduled for the 17th at our own Marche restaurant, right here in Eugene. When the wines hadn't been announced, we decided to bring our own choice and have fun with wine and food. Imagine our pleasure when, 2 days before the dinner, OR Pinot Noir was named the September wine! We were dining at a place that knows local and sustainable and supports local farmers and purveyors. How perfect. No time to secure the recommended wines; we decided to bring a good one from our cellars. No pre-planning. The 4 wines were: 05 and 07 Evesham Wood and 11 and 12 Evening Land. 3 of the 4 were sourced from the Seven Springs Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. These wines were true to their years of harvest: the 07 and 11 were more restrained and the 05 and 12 were more bold and forward. The 05 was drinking beautifully. It defined the Seven Springs vineyard, whose terroir was detectable in all 3 of the wines -- elegant, balanced, red fruit, cherries. The starter cream of local portobello and porcini mushrooms was a divine marriage with the wines. The soup reduced the acid in the wines and brought out the mushroom essence. Our mains related differentially to the wines: Socca and pork chop were best with the 12; pasta with butternut squash and sage was good with the 07. The salmon with chanterelles was a stunner with all of the wines. We've been waiting for Oregon Pinot Noir and it was a joyous occasion!
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Eric,
Suggestions for you on the next trip to Oregon: Stag Hollow and Vidon, smallish producers with terrific Pinots at moderate prices.
Suggestions for you on the next trip to Oregon: Stag Hollow and Vidon, smallish producers with terrific Pinots at moderate prices.
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Agreed! Vidon's wines are truly outstanding....
1
The Milling Room’s “American” menu tinyurl.com/jfk5295 reads like a pinot playground. Tuesday is BYO, and the B we brought—after a 2-hour home decant—was the multi-faceted and feminine 3˚.
It was a far cry from the Montinore. What’s been interesting me lately is whether a wine seems “constructed,” meaning the vintner was aiming for specific, dramatic flavors (the Ramey Chard is my paradigm), or seems unaffected, and more self-assured. Put the 3˚ with the Ramey.
It was tart and sweet, and had soft, shifting flavors of cherry, sweet herb, cedar, cola and baking spice, plus hints of moist tobacco and the loveliest cat pee you’ll ever sniff. I kept imagining it as a tipsy little old lady’s vermouth. I love vermouth, and I enjoyed the 3˚, but it never settled in to embrace the whole meal.
It was flexible, and worked with all the dishes you’d expect, plus at least one you wouldn’t. But each seemed isolated: intricate and delicate. Surprise of the night was Barb’s squid ink shrimp. A bit too spicy hot for the wine, but its seafood flavors went fine, as if with a cherried Nerello Mascalese. Best pair by far was the Cachel blue cheese that came in a beet salad. Duck breast in a cherry jus was a beautiful weight match, but I kept recalling Eric’s “keep it simple”; between wine and food there were just too many flavors going on to revel in any one. Likewise a side of wild mushrooms with garlic, chives, sea salt.
It was an attractive wine, but not easeful. It struck me as precious.
It was a far cry from the Montinore. What’s been interesting me lately is whether a wine seems “constructed,” meaning the vintner was aiming for specific, dramatic flavors (the Ramey Chard is my paradigm), or seems unaffected, and more self-assured. Put the 3˚ with the Ramey.
It was tart and sweet, and had soft, shifting flavors of cherry, sweet herb, cedar, cola and baking spice, plus hints of moist tobacco and the loveliest cat pee you’ll ever sniff. I kept imagining it as a tipsy little old lady’s vermouth. I love vermouth, and I enjoyed the 3˚, but it never settled in to embrace the whole meal.
It was flexible, and worked with all the dishes you’d expect, plus at least one you wouldn’t. But each seemed isolated: intricate and delicate. Surprise of the night was Barb’s squid ink shrimp. A bit too spicy hot for the wine, but its seafood flavors went fine, as if with a cherried Nerello Mascalese. Best pair by far was the Cachel blue cheese that came in a beet salad. Duck breast in a cherry jus was a beautiful weight match, but I kept recalling Eric’s “keep it simple”; between wine and food there were just too many flavors going on to revel in any one. Likewise a side of wild mushrooms with garlic, chives, sea salt.
It was an attractive wine, but not easeful. It struck me as precious.
1
Hey Sue,
Wines from Mercurey and Givry. You can find wonderful premier cru wines from these villages for around $30.
If you travel to Burgundy - you can drink very delicious Premier Cru wines from 12-20 euros.
My statement was about value. The wines you can drink, fabricated in Oregon or California, that express their terroirs, generally are far more expensive than delicious French wines - even wines from Burgundy.
These wines, I consider, to be far superior to most California and Oregon wines - especially Pinot Noirs - and generally are far cheaper.
There are some extremely expensive Burgundian wines but those reflect only a very small production of high quality pinot noir and chardonnay wines in the region.
Wines from Mercurey and Givry. You can find wonderful premier cru wines from these villages for around $30.
If you travel to Burgundy - you can drink very delicious Premier Cru wines from 12-20 euros.
My statement was about value. The wines you can drink, fabricated in Oregon or California, that express their terroirs, generally are far more expensive than delicious French wines - even wines from Burgundy.
These wines, I consider, to be far superior to most California and Oregon wines - especially Pinot Noirs - and generally are far cheaper.
There are some extremely expensive Burgundian wines but those reflect only a very small production of high quality pinot noir and chardonnay wines in the region.
4
That's the problem. The Burgundies highly sort after by collectors have skewed the pricing and give people the impression that Burgundies are expensive. Far from it. Burgundian winemakers are acutely aware of the affordability of their wines, and try to keep any price increases reasonable, which is the opposite approach to the Bordelais, whose mantra is to charge more than thy neighbour.
Burgundy the wine region can be very confusing, which makes it more difficult to find good value for money examples, but it would be well worth your time, and it's fun too !
Burgundy the wine region can be very confusing, which makes it more difficult to find good value for money examples, but it would be well worth your time, and it's fun too !
3
Some of the Oregon PNs I've tried carried those cedar notes that go well with planked salmon. I brush the fillets with a maple-syrup/olive-oil/grainy-dijon/orange-zest glaze to lock in the natural oiliness of the fish, and the tang of an acidic PN works nicely with that. Or try a Nova Scotian Tidal Bay.
3
Good Afternoon: Food-wine pairing? This was a great food-city pairing.
Could not find the cheaper wines; chose a Brooks 2014 Willamette Valley ($21). Settled onto the fire escape late Saturday afternoon with a baguette and three cheeses; a Marin County Brie, Belgian Charmoix, and Shropshire Bleu. Breezes streamed down Haight Street from the Pacific, while the fog decided not to roll in. Across the street two techies sat on the front steps of their Edwardian with cigarettes and cans of beer. We saluted each other. The Brooks went well with the Bleu and brilliantly with the others. The music: James Blackshaw, a 12-string guitarist. You can hear him on YouTube; try Cloud of Unknowing or Stained Glass Windows. Seriously, try food-music pairings some day.
One classic pairing to remember: Pinot Noir with beef. Kept it simple with a bone-in New York Strip pan-seared in cast iron. Served with roasted potatoes and the Times' excellent Vegetable Gratin recipe (http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1018247-summer-vegetable-gratin).
The Brooks has a darker garnet color than I expect from Pinots. Intense jammy nose with cherry, fig, earthy, perfumed and berry notes. The taste: surprisingly light-bodied on Day 1, given the nose. All of the above flavors, plus cedar, chocolate, and dewberry. Superb with steak. Day 2, roast chicken. The PN opened up nicely, with velvety mouth feel. More pronounced fruit. Also good with chicken. Pinot and San Francisco: Successful!
Could not find the cheaper wines; chose a Brooks 2014 Willamette Valley ($21). Settled onto the fire escape late Saturday afternoon with a baguette and three cheeses; a Marin County Brie, Belgian Charmoix, and Shropshire Bleu. Breezes streamed down Haight Street from the Pacific, while the fog decided not to roll in. Across the street two techies sat on the front steps of their Edwardian with cigarettes and cans of beer. We saluted each other. The Brooks went well with the Bleu and brilliantly with the others. The music: James Blackshaw, a 12-string guitarist. You can hear him on YouTube; try Cloud of Unknowing or Stained Glass Windows. Seriously, try food-music pairings some day.
One classic pairing to remember: Pinot Noir with beef. Kept it simple with a bone-in New York Strip pan-seared in cast iron. Served with roasted potatoes and the Times' excellent Vegetable Gratin recipe (http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1018247-summer-vegetable-gratin).
The Brooks has a darker garnet color than I expect from Pinots. Intense jammy nose with cherry, fig, earthy, perfumed and berry notes. The taste: surprisingly light-bodied on Day 1, given the nose. All of the above flavors, plus cedar, chocolate, and dewberry. Superb with steak. Day 2, roast chicken. The PN opened up nicely, with velvety mouth feel. More pronounced fruit. Also good with chicken. Pinot and San Francisco: Successful!
2
A visit to Willamette is highly recommended. Its an hour from Portland, relatively easy to get to, and from a base its easy to visit many vineyards nearby all of whom seem to offer Pinot Noir. I spent three days doing so a couple of summers ago -- the Allyson Inn is a great place to stay, surrounded by vines -- and have a number of favorite producers (Ponzi, Adelsheim, Hyland). Although increasingly popular the area doesn't have the tourist feel that Napa does, nor Napa prices. Check it out!
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Unfortunate that you limit your assessment to Oregon pinot noirs. Personally, have yet to find a better producer than Merry Edwards in Sonoma. As the "Queen of Pinot," she has an amazing collection dedicated to this finicky grape. And pinot noir is one varietal where it does pay to spend a bit more. There's usually a pretty significant difference in the sub-$40 wines and those that are $40+
2
Oregon should have it's own class.
I tend to sort domestic Pinots as: Oregon, "Napa", "Santa Barbara", and lately Santa Lucia Highlands.
There is a lot of overlap in profile, but there are some differences that matter to me. In particular incidence of limestone soil, and use of Pommard vines vs the Dijon clones that UC Davis seems to have propagated everywhere in California.
What I prefer about Oregon Pinots is that there is usually more Pommard juice in the glass; and what's missing is the limestone. That you get in the French wines, and from St. Rita, and SLH in Califorfornia.
I tend to sort domestic Pinots as: Oregon, "Napa", "Santa Barbara", and lately Santa Lucia Highlands.
There is a lot of overlap in profile, but there are some differences that matter to me. In particular incidence of limestone soil, and use of Pommard vines vs the Dijon clones that UC Davis seems to have propagated everywhere in California.
What I prefer about Oregon Pinots is that there is usually more Pommard juice in the glass; and what's missing is the limestone. That you get in the French wines, and from St. Rita, and SLH in Califorfornia.
1
so pleased we have our pinot noir lesson assigned in time for the first debate. our wine tasting group will be doing our dinner and tasting on 9/26, just before the debate. hopefully we'll have plenty of pinot noir left over to numb the political angst of the debate itself. go lester holt! and thanks mr. asimov for sticking with the class. it's been a joy.
5
There are hundreds of great Burgundy wines, "expressing the narrowest slices of terroir," for far less than $100 - many under $30.
Don't scare the American consumer - Burgundian wines are far superior and far less expensive, in many cases, than pinot noir wines from Oregon.
Santé,
John
Don't scare the American consumer - Burgundian wines are far superior and far less expensive, in many cases, than pinot noir wines from Oregon.
Santé,
John
4
"Burgundian wines are far superior..." -- I don't think so! You really should get out of Chicago a little more and spend some time in Oregon -- or even California, as Cee in D.C. observes, with a superlative Merry Edwards pinot. Or if you're going to stay in Oregon -- how about a lovely Domaine Serene Pinot from the Evanstads? You're missing some very luscious wines by sticking to your Burgundian "guns."
1
Can you please tell me some superior red Burgundy wines available her for under $30?
I was born and raised in Northern California and went to college in Northern California then subsequently spent years living in Burgundy, France.
I appreciate Oregon wines and some wine growers attempt to create terroir driven wines in the New World. But generally, one can find far better wines at a far better value in Burgundy than they can in Oregon and especially, in California.
Cheers - You should really get out of dry California more.
In jest,
John
I appreciate Oregon wines and some wine growers attempt to create terroir driven wines in the New World. But generally, one can find far better wines at a far better value in Burgundy than they can in Oregon and especially, in California.
Cheers - You should really get out of dry California more.
In jest,
John
1
A long time ago I shared with others a bottle of Pinot Noir from Oregon Domaine Drouhin. It was to me a game changer and what I since have measured all Pinot Noirs against, well, actually all red wines. I now live part time in Burgundy, and among many, many Pinot Noirs, only a handful have measured up to that one experience, which of course has something to do with my limited budget.
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Completely agree. We had a bottle several years ago at Paley's Place in Portland. A few weeks later we found the same bottle at the Blue Water Cafe in Vancouver. It cost almost three times as much, but we drank it anyway, lol.
Could not agree more my go to Pinot
Good luck to you all with these wines! Those of us who drink the Willamette Valley could rattle off a long list of wines that we would prefer to offer you, but among these three, I've enjoyed the 3 degrees in years past (for well under $25), although I haven't tried the Big Table recommended here. I rarely go up to $45. Why should I? Just recently a local grocer (I'm in Eugene OR right now) has put the Broadley Willamette Valley on sale for $12.99 a bottle, so I have what's left of a case of the 14s and also a case of the 15s to save. And, by the way, you usually can't go wrong with the 14s, though I myself believe that they are just barely starting to be ready to drink.
My one recommendation to folks who are trying to understand Oregon pinot: Put some away and drink it over the years. Even the good basic bottlings do interesting and often wonderful things for about 5 years after release, often longer. And when I spend up into the 20s or 30s (and, rarely, more), I find the wait even more rewarding. In my view, Oregon Pinots usually tend not to be great wines on release, though they can be very good. Give them a few years, though, and they often become memorable.
My one recommendation to folks who are trying to understand Oregon pinot: Put some away and drink it over the years. Even the good basic bottlings do interesting and often wonderful things for about 5 years after release, often longer. And when I spend up into the 20s or 30s (and, rarely, more), I find the wait even more rewarding. In my view, Oregon Pinots usually tend not to be great wines on release, though they can be very good. Give them a few years, though, and they often become memorable.
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These look great! How do you chill your wine to just cooler than room temperature if you don't have a wine fridge?
1
Just put the bottle in the fridge for 20 minutes or a half hour.
5
Put it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
3
A 2013 Montinore on hand, a simple pork tenderloin (light garlic and oregano) on the menu, Friday night’s class was impromptu, unfussed, and—informed by the lingering memory of last week’s subtler, Guillemot Bourgogne rouge—more about the wine than the pairings.
The two pinots were more alike than different. Both shared obvious dry strawberry flavors. The M’s had a juicy, eager, American smile; the G, more an acerbic Gallic shrug. But the G served as a reminder. It had shown a quiet, self-assured quality that made its whole meal enjoyable, even if no part amazed. Similarly, so did the M. Maybe not the most complex wine ever, but complex enough.
Weight had a lot to do with it. Though light-bodied, the wine’s strong pinot flavors held it up easily to the pork and to a heavier potato & onion side. (Analogous to the Barberas, where acidity compensates for weight?) Barb called the M “fake heavy.” I agree, though I mean it more as a compliment than she does.
P.S. Two pairing tidbits: First, a chunk of Canadian cheddar was too sharp and bright for the wine; sautéed broccoli, a bit dark. Mixed, they paired wonderfully. Second, the dinner’s most surprising, interesting pairing came with the potatoes & onions. Its light pumpkin-spice found a shared, baking-spice note in the M. Comfy and good. But an added-on garnish of fresh oregano was an exotic and exhilarating contrast that did loop-de-loops with the taste buds.
P.P.S. Decant this wine. Much improved.
The two pinots were more alike than different. Both shared obvious dry strawberry flavors. The M’s had a juicy, eager, American smile; the G, more an acerbic Gallic shrug. But the G served as a reminder. It had shown a quiet, self-assured quality that made its whole meal enjoyable, even if no part amazed. Similarly, so did the M. Maybe not the most complex wine ever, but complex enough.
Weight had a lot to do with it. Though light-bodied, the wine’s strong pinot flavors held it up easily to the pork and to a heavier potato & onion side. (Analogous to the Barberas, where acidity compensates for weight?) Barb called the M “fake heavy.” I agree, though I mean it more as a compliment than she does.
P.S. Two pairing tidbits: First, a chunk of Canadian cheddar was too sharp and bright for the wine; sautéed broccoli, a bit dark. Mixed, they paired wonderfully. Second, the dinner’s most surprising, interesting pairing came with the potatoes & onions. Its light pumpkin-spice found a shared, baking-spice note in the M. Comfy and good. But an added-on garnish of fresh oregano was an exotic and exhilarating contrast that did loop-de-loops with the taste buds.
P.P.S. Decant this wine. Much improved.
2
I had the pleasure of visiting Domaine Drouhin during a trip to Oregon in 2014. The wines were among the best ones I tasted while out there, and the view was stunning. I was suffering from a skin condition at the time, and the quality of the wines plus the view helped take my mind off the itching (how's that for context?)
4
Oregon Pinots can indeed be great, but not consistently. Like Burgundy, there are good years and mediocre ones. The advantage that cool climate areas of California have is that they are consistently good to great. Some are always great. The Hallberg acreage along Route 116 north of Sebastopol was in apples for decades, and when the apple trees were pulled out and Pinot Noir planted, the results were astounding. Besides western Sonoma County, the Carneros region, Sta. Rita Hills, and Edna Valley all produce great cool climate Pinot.
Not just Burgundy. Every wine region everywhere is subject to vintage variation. That's one of the beauties of wine -- it changes all the time.
4
When you don't rely on irrigation as they do in California, you get wonderful differences between vintages instead of consistent wines year after year. After all, every year should be different.
We recently visited Tendril Wine Cellars in Gaston and were amazed at the different styles winemaker Tony Rynders was able to produce by blending grapes from different vineyards and applying different production techniques. His Pinot Noir Blanc was excellent. We were able to taste the freshly pressed grape juice being used in the 2016 Pinot Noir Nlanc... delicious! Ken Wright in Carlton makes outstanding wines. His approach is to produce vintage wine specific to each vineyard. Comparing his Pinot Noirs by the terroir type and micro climate of each vineyard was a real education.
3
While I have no argument with Asimovs' selections, That said, I have been in the wine business for decades, Cristom's Pinot Noirs are equal to any of those mentioned. They run from as low as $28.00 a bottle to their finest which will cost around $55.00
5
Indeed. Their low end blend is reliably good. I suspect it's because Cristom helps so many small growers starting out (with education, vineyard consulting, crushing, and producing). In return they get access to some small harvests of good/high quality grapes, and a deeper knowledge of what grows where, best.
1
Thanks for this choice for discussion. Back in the day (you'll know how long ago in a minute) friends and I would rendezvous at Portland Airport at about 10:30AM local time before a weeklong professional meeting on the Oregon coast. (That was real devotion by those traveling from DC.) The designated driver (there were famed researchers aboard, I was not one) reserved a van and we wandered toward the coast, stopping for a razor clam lunch and visiting familiar and new wineries along the way. We each built a case to carry home later. I had a handle with straps that turned a box into carry-on luggage (that's how long ago it was!). Good times, looking forward to the comments and the followup article.
4
We are wine grape growers in the Amity/Eola Hills and we sell our pinot noir grapes each year to a small winery here in Salem, Oregon call Stangeland Winery. I recommend that readers check out their website and order a few bottles! The winemaker, Larry Miller, does not get a lot of national press, but his estate wines have won Gold Medals in international pinot noir competitions in Switzerland and double Gold Medals in competitions here in Oregon. His price point is very good considering the outstanding quality of his wines!!
3
I have never heard of this winery. I checked their website and the most recent vintage for sale is an '11 I find this fact intriguing and consider it a very positive sign and may order some.
Smaller production and difficult to find outside OR, but the wines from Cameron, Seven of Hearts, and Vincent Wine Company are all moderately priced and exemplary of the combination of earthiness and nimble fruit that typifies WV pinot noir. For vegan/vegetarians, we love to combine an Oregon pinot with mushroom risotto.
3
We drink this wine all year!
2
Quick question, Eric. Should we allow the usual month for this assignment or will you try to get back on calendar?
Dan, it'll be a full four weeks until the next Wine School column.
2
I'd like to point out that I believe very few, if any, producers work in the Willamette (the river the Willamette Valley is named after) though at least one has used the Willamette (the river) as a means for delivering finished wine via canoe.
There are about 300 wineries in the Willamette Valley (http://www.oregonwinecountry.org/); these comprise about 75% of Oregon's wineries. About 3 million residents live in the valley as well, including residents of Portland and several of the state's larger cities. Interstate 5 runs through the valley and is a more frequently used transportation option.
3
Fresh caught salmon on the BBQ, with some lemon and fresh herbs stuffed in the cavity while grilling; cooked rare the way the French cook their fish, will elevate your modest Pinot Noir to legendary status with most dinner guests.
McMinnville OR hosts an annual international conference with growers from around the world that grow the grape and make it into wine. Open to the public at a full conference or a la cart fee @ ipnc.org.
Western Oregon has a unique soil type and structure called Jory; which gives Willamette valley Pinot Noir a distinctive character, and along with the usual Dijon clones, there are vineyards planted to unique root stocks that have their origins in Oregon.
I once had a french version of "smoked tea duck" at a Michael Minna restaurant in SF. The duck breast was simply cooked, but served in a bowl of smoked tea infused (miso?) broth. In this case the berry fruit and the acidity of the Pinot worked perfectly with the boarderline smokey, gamey, flavors
McMinnville OR hosts an annual international conference with growers from around the world that grow the grape and make it into wine. Open to the public at a full conference or a la cart fee @ ipnc.org.
Western Oregon has a unique soil type and structure called Jory; which gives Willamette valley Pinot Noir a distinctive character, and along with the usual Dijon clones, there are vineyards planted to unique root stocks that have their origins in Oregon.
I once had a french version of "smoked tea duck" at a Michael Minna restaurant in SF. The duck breast was simply cooked, but served in a bowl of smoked tea infused (miso?) broth. In this case the berry fruit and the acidity of the Pinot worked perfectly with the boarderline smokey, gamey, flavors
7