How to Go to Cuba Now

Aug 31, 2016 · 41 comments
John McAuliff (Riverhead, NY)
Cuba has excellent hotels but they are usually full with tour groups. Nevertheless, it is worth trying to book on-line at sites like meliacuba.com

Casas particulares (bed and breakfasts) usually offer better rooms than lower quality hotels.

San Cristobal, the tour agency of the Historian of Havana, offers a variety of half and full day guided programs. http://www.cubaheritage.com/san-cristobal-description.htm Cubanacan desks in most international hotels provide similar services. Personal guides are also available.

Commercial flights permit beginning and/or ending visits in provincial cities that are less touristed and as interesting as Havana.

Information about use of the individual general license for people to people travel can be found here http://tinyurl.com/P2Pindiv

John McAuliff
Fund for Reconciliation and Development
Joyce Nicholls (USA)
I am dismayed by the naïveté of some of the comments. As a Canadian who has travelled to parts of Cuba, I am a bit familiar with how things have been there. It IS still a totalitarian country and health care and education is about ALL that its citizens have. They don't benefit from the dollars that tourists bring. And if tourism was going to bring political and economic freedom to ordinary Cubans, don't you think it would have happened with the millions of tourists from the rest of the world all these years? Many of the Cuban people employed in the tourism industry benefitted from that free education; but those physicians and engineers, among others, work in hospitality because that pays a bit better. Many of the large hotels are owned by Spanish companies who fly in managers and other higher level staff. The Cubans are the grounds people, cleaners and wait staff. Some years ago, the government advised visitors not to tip. And it was made more difficult because Cubans were not allowed to use US dollars or the CUC (convertible currency) and tourists couldn't use Cuban pesos. Most visitors I knew took necessities to leave behind: children's aspirin, band aids, school supplies, a suitcase full of clothing that would not return home, etc. Cuba is a beautiful country and the people we met there are among some of the most generous and warm-hearted anywhere. But don't kid yourself that it's just another tropical getaway that merely needs some time and hotels to get up to speed.
Kathryn (NY, NY)
I went with a synagogue last May and we went on a "mission" trip to bring needed supplies to Cuban Jews, who number about 1,500 in all of Cuba. I can't say much for this country. The hotels were actually pretty laughable - bad air conditioning, showers that flooded the entire entry way to the room, people given the wrong keys who entered your room at night thinking it was THEIR room, bad mattresses, terrible pillows, thin blankets. The poverty is astonishing. We attended a lecture by a Cuban architect who told us that three buildings fall down A DAY in Havanna. The stray dog and cat population is hearbreaking - absolutely did me in. The final stray was that I got as sick as I have ever been in my entire life. I stayed sick for weeks after returning, despite infectious disease doctors and drugs. Can't say that i'll be going back to Cuba anytime soon. Whatever you do - take your own toilet paper, Clorox Wipes, Kleenex. The internet access is very spotty, so don't count on it. Take gifts - books, cosmetics, CDs, left-over drugs that haven't expired. The people need the drugs desperately. It is a sad, sad country filled with lovely people. A depressing trip. One highlight was seeing the Buena Vista Social Club, which has since disbanded.
Charlie B (USA)
"With return flights to Cuba priced at between $227 and $311 in September..."

This language may confuse the American readers for whom this story is meant, so:

In the US a "return flight" is half the trip, the second leg of a round-trip flight. In the UK it's both legs. So, the dollar figure quoted gets you to Cuba and back.
Will Bree (Brooklyn NY)
I simply can't believe that we agree to those restrictions.
In a win/win for Cuba, who negotiates this stuff? The U.S. will be like Santa Clause for Cuban Tourism. Why do we let them say the chimney's closed?
JL.S. (Alexandria Virginia)
We spent two marvelous weeks in Cuba in March. It was a small organized people-to-people tour and took us throughout Cuba - Holguin, Santiago, San Juan, Guantanamo, Havana, Pinar de Rio, Cienfuegos, Trinidad and the Valley De Los ingenios, and Guanabacoa. Focus was on art, dance, music, writing, history, politics and medicine. Mostly travel by tour bus with a few days mid-trip on a ship. We had an amazingly interesting time, and we were able to talk with performers, artists, politicians, and medical staffs. The Cuban people we officially met and those on the streets were amazing and they like and welcome Americans – the exceptions being our embargo enthusiastic politicians and Cuban-Americans in Miami.

For those tourists not on a tour, plan very carefully because transportation in Cuba is not widely available. Tourists with a desire to travel throughout Cuba without being on a tour will find no trains, no readily available bus services from town-to-town, rare car rental services (and very few operating fueling stations), a lack of non-tour hotels and restaurants. And don't expect to use your credit cards at many places or to have your iPhones operational for calls, emails, and to go on-line. Exchanges can be tough to find in more rural areas.

While Cuba promises to become much more favorable to the non-tour group tourist, it's just not yet there!
Scott D (Toronto)
Welcome to Cuba. We have been going for 30 years. Dont screw it up.
Doug Terry (Maryland)
Like a lot of people, I am anxious to visit Cuba while it is still "real", not totally loaded down and, yes, corrupted by the sameness that corporate America and cruise lines seem to impose around the world. I was there once before a long time ago as a journalist, but the Cuban government, and my work, kept me very busy and contact with ordinary Cubans was sorely lacking.

Though local citizens often welcome the arrival of American franchise places like McDonald's, even in France, the bland sameness is not the reason we travel, is it? There are very few places one can go and not encounter the franchise world. One such place about 20 yrs. ago was Vieques, one of two islands that are part of Puerto Rico located just to the east of the main island toward the Virgin Islands. It was a delight to visit and, as far as I know, there is only one big resort on the island now. The horses wandering on the roads and even on some main streets in town were part of the charm and there was no a franchise place insight. (I hope the island is still considered too small to support them).

Cuba has undergone many changes over the last couple of decades, but from what I hear, it is still much the same to the eye. If only we, and our corporations, could leave it alone and let it be Cuba, place apart, forever. Arrival there felt as foreign as any place I have ever been in my life.
What me worry (NYC)
exchanging US currency here for euros or pounds will cost a fee. In the end it might not be worth it. There are boutique hotels in Old Havana or the Hotel Nacional. Miramar is at a distance from Old Havana. I was told not to use a public bus, which I do all of the time on the Yucatan peninsula..
Weather was very very humid. Tourist buses were well AC'd. Art Museum was closed because of rain damaged last week.
There seem to be problems getting building materials. Lots of education does not nec. solve anything. Lots of backbreaking jobs need doing to maintain the huge number of old two-three-four story bldgs. PS Drank the water with no consequences.
Brian (Brooklyn)
There's a US company called Bridges Cuba that does travel consulting and rents cell phones to tourists on a daily rate. They send you the phone in the US and you return it when you get back, but it works locally when you get there and has driver and guide contacts, and a map with GPS. A great option for groups who want to do a people-to-people on their own.
Aaron (Hammond)
I traveled to a Cuba alone in March 2011 as a 28 male solo Western traveler. I spent 3 weeks in the island and spent time in Havana, Camaguey, Holguin, Guardalavaca, Santiago and Baracoa. While things may have changed in the 5 and a half years since I travelled, what I wished I knew a few things before I travelled. I stayed at 1 and 2 star hotels (Melia chain and the like) and in every hotel I stayed at I was approached my prostitutes discretely in nearly all the hotels, with reception staff turning a blind eye at every occasion. Some of them were very pushy, and I had to say no forcefully on several occasions. Walking around the old city in Havana you get also cat calls of all kinds. In a hotel in Holguin scammers came trying to change their CUC for US dollars, and making a bit of money on the side. The economic situation in the east of the island is dire, with many basic necessities difficult to find outside major cities/tourist ships. Another thing was staying at a casa particular in Baracoa and being plied with little things like coffee in the room, things that I did not ask for and which had not price list, and later being billed for it all. Overall it was an amazing experience and Cuba is unlike any country I have travelled to in the Americas and it is quite unique, its important to remember to be very cautious and alert at all times.
Chris Hartridge (London/Denver)
AAron I was very interested to read your comments as Baracoa near Moa where I once lived is of interest to me to visit at some point. I appreciate hearing what you had to say. CH
James (NYC)
Would love to tour the road to the Cuban revolution. Visit the Sierra Maestra, the lodging of the guerrilla's and path to victory.
Rich (Seattle)
Has the 10% tax on US dollars not been rescinded? I thought that was part of the new detente: http://www.havanatimes.org/?p=117419
Lisa M (Hartsdale, NY)
No, Rich, sadly, it has not been. My husband and I were in Cuba this summer, and I can tell you that we paid that much or more.
Sher (Minnesota)
I just got back from Cuba 2 weeks ago. I followed the advice to bring Euros and changed Euros to CUC but when I ran out of CUC I changed USD to CUC at the hotel and definitely got a better overall exchange.
Marius Jovaisa (Vilnius, Lithuania)
before going to Cuba, check out aerial photographs published in a book Unseen Cuba
jbishop (NC)
More to NIJ: Most do not live better than Americans. There is little employment. They have rations, very low wages. Yet, there is a spirit which lives within the population. They are not obsessed with consumerism and have learned to make do. If we do not have good health care with all the advantages we have, where should we look within the systems we have in our country? This is too complex a subject to address in a few sentences.
Wallace (Nj)
Unless you are a member of the communist party you don't live better than the average American. Notice how the Cuban govt does not have an immigration problem with thousands leaving the US mainland or other Caribbean islands to reach the shores of Cuba??? The Cuban are a generally happy people always making the best of any difficulty and laughing - no need to propagandize the miserable Cuban Govt offering free education and free health care in return for enslaving you. Everyone should travel to Cuba & see for themselves. I have.
Jim (Los Angeles)
Good article with accurate information. I've been traveling to Cuba as a journalist since 1998. The direct flights will be great, but remember when you can fly directly from Des Moines, it will get crowded. Be patient, and get to know the wonderful Cuban people. Here is what a one week trip looks like.
http://cubaexplorer.com/tours/veterans-for-peace-cuba-tour
Herman Krieger (Eugene, Oregon)
I had taken one of those people to people trips, and spent six days wandering around Havana with a folding rollfilm camera.
"See See Havana",
www.efn.org/~hkrieger/cuba.htm
Melo in Ohio (Columbus OH)
What about bicycling? My Canadian friends have been cycling in Cuba for years, so when/how will Americans be able to do it?
Jared (San Francisco)
Great to finally see direct flights to Cuba. I was one of those people who paid for a charter flight and people to people tour a few years ago. Despite the cost, I got to say it was worth it to get an early look at Cuban culture. You really need a guide in Cuba - sure, you can go it alone, but not recommended. It's still fairly challenging to get around and tourism infrastructure is still in its nascent stages.

My guide Gustavo was incredible and actually, I felt more comfortable immersing myself in experiences with him than if I Would have been solo. Like the street party I found near Trinidad!

This is the tour I took for anyone who's curious http://www.stridetravel.com/trips/intrepidtravel/hola-cuba-people-to-peo...
cascia (brooklyn)
i'm interested in hearing what you mean by "an early look at cuban culture."

european cuban culture has been around since the early 1500s. before that it had a large indigenous population. and up until the revolution it was a very, very popular tourist destination- it's still big on the list of many caribbean travelers. my haitian family and friends visit frequently.
Tyler (Atlanta)
This is ultimately very bad news for Mexico as tourists look for safer alternatives to a country controlled by drug cartels.
What me worry (NYC)
Yucagan peninsula is entirely safe... and one can use the local buses in
Campeche, Merida... and there are the wonderful Mayan ruins.. What I missed in Cuba were ancient monuments -- altho the Cathedral is somewhat interesting..
Hemingway's hangouts don't quite do it for me. Nor did the misinformation put forth by some experts.. Many people had US relatives. Most of the people tourists meet are the white Cubans. May have seen fewer black people there than in NYC normally.
Salsa lessons and trips to old age centers, youth centers, centers with an admission fee and shoes and posters to buy, do not do it for me.
Tourism must be good for Cuba. Rum is cheap at the airport. under 11
CUC for good rum. The museum of the revolution has decently priced souvenirs, also the gift shop at los Terrazas.
Mark Weaver (Miami)
Which is the communist country again? Cuba or the U.S?
Thedr9wningman (Portland, OR)
Cuba.

Where is the source of your confusion?

The US is clearly capitalistic.
What me worry (NYC)
Really?/ Medicare is not capitalist at all... or is Medicaid.. The US is.. Lord knows what -- lots of privileged people here and prob also in Cuba. The US Embassy charges Cubans 175USD to be interviewed for a visa. which they might or might not get. (aka How Trump will get MX to pay for the wall....!! User fees.. like at a golf course!! OH WELL, just saying..
Thomas J. Nagy, Ph.D. (Bethesda, MD)
Smiling (rather than swearing) at my NYT-subscriber-status is starting to become habitual!

Delighted to discover this positive article in NYT about a wonderful place with great people: Cuba. The cold-war hysteria, which in the past, all too frequently my own NYT has wallowed in is finally ending ? It is a thrilling moment to savor, for the U.S., for Cuba and for the rest of humankind.

What next? How about NYT acknowledging other huge transformations under our noses. Start with China, designated villain of Climate Disruption, now leading the world in the new long march from the dead end of carbon fuel to its replacement with wind and solar energy?

Somehow, in a true triumph of the human soul and mind, Cuba has weathered the horror of an excruciatingly painful quasi blockade which is finally being lifted.
Phil D (CA)
Some tips from a recent trip:
- Take a look at some highly rated AirBnB. We had a great host and a great apartment.
- Change your money and bring all of the Euros (or Canadian) that you need for the trip, plus some extra. Don't keep it all in one place.
- If you do run out of cash, Western Union is your best hope (based on the variety of people I spoke to in Cuba).
- Do not bring back any goods from Cuba unless you fly direct from Cuba to the US. Bringing in Cuban goods via a third country is illegal.
- Look for clusters of people on laptops/phones/tablets sitting outside. Those are WiFi hotspots. You should be able to buy some access cards for 1 CUC nearby.
- Download maps to your phone before your trip so you have offline access to help you get around.
- Never order anything without seeing a menu with prices first.
- Look up the Cuban cigar scam.
- If you are near Havana, look up Fabrica de Arte. Possibly the most amazing place in Cuba today.
msf (NYC)
Why the mistrust? I experienced a friendly, open + (almost) crime-free Cuba. Go with an open mind + just the usual precautions.
I remember thick hot chocolate, school children in maroon uniforms, and music coming out of houses in so many places.
(yes - and Fabrica de Arte)
Lisa M (NY)
Hi Phil,

I was in Cuba this summer, and I agree with much of what you say. In no particular order, here are my comments:
-La Fabrica del Arte Cubano in Havana was on our list. Lonely Planet listed it as having hours during the week, but apparently it's just open on weekends (we drove past and saw the sign).
-Embarrassed to say that we feel for the cigar scam, even though we knew better. The problem is, the Cubans are so engaging that we got caught up in the moment!
-Bring a handkerchief or bandanna to mop that sweaty brow! Little things like that are hard to find in Cuba, which actually is part of the charm. As someone else said, there is a spirit to the people, a winning resourcefulness and warmth. Can't wait to return.
Yanick (Miami)
So the Law of the Land in Cuba is the US State Department’s “The Law of Restrictions”. I think that this is a very comic new form of discriminations against Americans on Cuban soil - by the US?
On the serious note, the “12 conditions” are the best way to promote corruption (buying the daily activities’ program). I just wonder how much it would cost.
So now, while visiting Cuba, we are going to be followed not only by Castro’s secret agents but also by the US State Department operatives there?
And visiting a beach for US citizens in Cuba would be an illegal activity in the view of the US State Department ? Really – in 2016? So only Mr. “Cuba Educational Travel's” can provide us with and the absolution for visiting a beach in Cuba? Something is not right with this picture.
Unbelievable restrictions, I would like to know the name of a person(s) who crafted such a highly intelligent restriction on Americans visiting neighboring country. Well, for now, let me blame for it Mr. D. Trump.
Congratulations, it feels like we are back to the -Middle Ages.
Yanick
Phil D (CA)
All you have to do is tell US immigration that you were there for "people-to-people activities". That is literally all you have to say. There are no costs.

Cuba could care less why you're there, but the US still requires you to play along with the exemptions system. In previous years you actually had to apply and get approved for an exemption. Now there is no way to apply, and you just say the magic words.
Julie M (Texas)
Really?

After 50+ years of prohibitions, you expect all the paperwork and restrictions to vanish overnight? Remember, a significant portion of Congress is still hell bent against this, including many Floridian politicians.
Dave Joson (Los Angeles)
Boycott JetBlue for establishing flights to Cuba, an oppressive dictatorship, lead by a murderous tyrannical government.
jbishop (NC)
The best way for the tyrannical government to reform will be the increasing presence of others. I was there last Oct with a cultural approved group. It was a wonderful, eye opening experience.
NIJ (NY, NY)
Really have you been there or met anyone from there many Cubans live better than many Americans they have better health care management at no cost to them
jbishop (NC)
With the terrible parts of the Revolution came healthcare and education. Those we spoke with said these were non negotiable and must be saved.
Robert Coane (US Refugee CANADA)
Been there, done that. I live in Canada, land of the free ... to travel.