Freek’s Mill Spins Romance Near a Superfund Site

Jun 29, 2016 · 22 comments
Bill Scurry (New York, NY)
Let's keep normalizing the gentrifying of a region not for for human life. Seriously.
Scott S (Brooklyn)
One of the reasons to always pay attention to Pete Wells is that you can learn so much from reading what he writes. But its worth mentioning that in this review Mr. Wells did not observe proper cephalopodic nomenclature. The eight muscular hydrostats (two pairs of four each) are known as arms, not legs.
Tim S. (Brooklyn, NY)
"The officer wasn't feeling the Gowanus romance yet."

He was on the edge of a part of Gowanus where trucks often park at night and the oldest profession is active. The officer appears to have been concerned that the author might have been looking for the wrong kind of Gowanus romance...
Andy Jones (NYC)
why bring up the slave aspect - no relation to the restaurant or need to do so
jeff (earth)
Well, many if those who can afford to dine here benefit from ongoing advantage afforded "white" folks.
lerskine (down by the riverside)
Imagine, instead, that the aspect brought up was the British troop movement through that area during the American Revolution. Would you still object? Would it seem contrary to telling the history?
To my eye, ear and heart, slavery is still too overlooked in this paragraph. "...the Dutch West India Company, whose ships moved ingredients and other goods from around the globe." Ingredients and other goods? Really? The West India Company was part of a Dutch "Grand Design" to seize the Portuguese colonies in Africa and the Americas, so as to dominate the sugar and slave trade." (see wikipedia) The history of our city is one of freedom and of slavery. It doesn't benefit any of us to forget that. It angers millions of us, whose families bled and died both for in service of the Revolution and under the Grand Design, when some of us are blind to the relationship between the past and the present.
Slavery was here before and during the colonies, before the declaration of independence, before and within New York and before and within Nieuw Amsterdam.
Next time you hear or read the word slavery, and it makes you bristle, take the common advice: lean in. Push yourself to learn something about our city and our country, it may teach you something about yourself.
Mae (NY)
My sense was that he was trying to accuratize the romanticized rural past life; something welcome (even in a restaurant review) during these days of people trying to "make America . . ." etc etc
Jim M. (Brooklyn, NY)
Great review, but the restaurant is not actually in that desolate of an area. All you need to do it walk 250 feet to another neighborhood gem - Ample Hills Ice Cream. When you are done with the ice cream, you can play some shuffleboard next door at The Royal Palms Shuffleboard Club. This neighborhood is turning into quite the dining and entertainment area.
Mary Sojourner (Flagstaff, Az.)
There goes the neighborhood. Same same everywhere. Soon only the young and affluent - oops wasn't the article talking about effluent? - will be able to afford to live here.
Ndredhead (NJ)
Sounds good but there's simply no reason to include 'superfund' site in the review title or spend the first paragraph conjuring up toxic waste and sludge ( unless it's another Guy Fieri review)
Tonstant weader (Mexico)
It remember, nobody drinks from the Gowanus Canal.
skippy (nyc)
so is monte's venetian room still there, around the corner?
Andy Jones (NYC)
yes - unfortunately they stupidly removed the murals and the white jacketed crooner
JF (NYC)
Yes. On Carroll St
Bill (new york)
I'm sure tasty and when in area I plan to try. But all of it sounds kinda uninspired and been there done that.
Maureen (<br/>)
Intrigued by the wine list, we made a point of eating there when visiting from Cleveland (ah, what's a little toxicity). Really enjoyed the food, vibe and genuine friendliness of Alex, the servers, and other diners.
BD (Ridgewood)
I would love to hear more of the story with the officer. There are so many levels to explore. On the most basic level, this is a critical review for the developers, small businesses, etc. in the area hoping to lure people to a new neighborhood. A NYT reviewed restaurant is a big deal and this cop dramatically changed the tone of the review.
Cedarglen (Left Coast)
This is an easy one: When the stars equal the $$, the house goes on my 'Must Try' list. Two months may be a bit young for a multi-visit review, but is does appear that these folks are doing just fine.
Perhaps the best line in any review this year is the quip about "...fondling beets at Noma.. " Truly one of your very best!
DCBinNYC (NYC)
I wonder if the % orders of bottled water vs. eau de ville (tap) is higher at this place?
RML (New City)
And so do you say, yes officer I am standing alone in a desolate area but just ate in a very good restaurant and you can read my review because I am the restaurant critic of the NY Times?
Brooklyn Native (NYC)
Embellished for the review, I think that's fairly obvious.
Sera Stephen (The Village)
I appreciate more and more the depths of these reviews, and the style. “Fondling beets at Noma” says three things at once, and brings a smile with it.

The history is integral, not laid on as a garnish, and it shows that a useful review isn’t necessarily one which makes you want the food, just one that makes you want the words.

Thanks once again.