Have very fond memories of Vienna 79. Dined there frequently and enjoyed the food, the staff and the service. Looking forward to trying Grünaur’s new endeavor. Having read many of Pete Wells’ reviews, I wasn’t surprised by the one star rating. He is often very subtle in his criticism.
Decent German food takes skill to prepare and for schnitzel excellent veal.. But Lingon berries are NOT standard with Weiner schnitzel-- lemon and possibly browned caper butter, browned butter -- boiled potatoes, cucumber salad with fresh dill, ochsenmaul salat; spare me Austrian goulash, no paprikash? ; should be an excellent roasted chicken.. Apple strudel to be delicious has to have hand pulled dough.. My mother made one terrific one every single summer. You cannot duplicate it with machine pressed phyllo. That's just the way it is. It would be better to have a perfect pflaumenkuchen. Suggestions for the chef. And no sauerbraten or is that too German, German.
1
There seems to be a lot of confusion over the way the article read vs. the stars conferred, but it actually matches my experience. In fact, despite agreeing qualitatively, I think one star is kind. It suggests that although the restaurant's food actually isn't very good, he hates to speak ill of it because it was so charming and well intentioned.
To wit, when he says that on some nights the schnitzel "doesn't crunch as emphatically as you want it to", he's basically romanticizing the fact that the wiener schnitzel is often clumsily and poorly executed. In no way should that be praiseworthy, but he is charmed enough to rationalize it as part of trying to seem like a longer-tenured restaurant. In my experience, the schnitzel was just mediocre and sloppy. A huge gaffe at a restaurant that is playing at being traditional Austrian. And even worse in light of all the infinitely better schnitzels available in town, such as the ones at Seasonal and Edi & The Wolf. Wells was kind not to trash it.
Similarly, he wrote about the about the spaetzle in the goulash, but doesn't actually praise the goulash itself. It's as if he's trying to avoid mentioning that the meat was embarrassingly poorly butchered. Every bite contained connective tissue, unpleasantly jiggly bits, or stuff you'd want trimmed off in a version costing $30. Wells wanted to like the place more than he did, but their actual food is sub par, and if you're going to try to produce nostalgia, that requires better execution.
To wit, when he says that on some nights the schnitzel "doesn't crunch as emphatically as you want it to", he's basically romanticizing the fact that the wiener schnitzel is often clumsily and poorly executed. In no way should that be praiseworthy, but he is charmed enough to rationalize it as part of trying to seem like a longer-tenured restaurant. In my experience, the schnitzel was just mediocre and sloppy. A huge gaffe at a restaurant that is playing at being traditional Austrian. And even worse in light of all the infinitely better schnitzels available in town, such as the ones at Seasonal and Edi & The Wolf. Wells was kind not to trash it.
Similarly, he wrote about the about the spaetzle in the goulash, but doesn't actually praise the goulash itself. It's as if he's trying to avoid mentioning that the meat was embarrassingly poorly butchered. Every bite contained connective tissue, unpleasantly jiggly bits, or stuff you'd want trimmed off in a version costing $30. Wells wanted to like the place more than he did, but their actual food is sub par, and if you're going to try to produce nostalgia, that requires better execution.
1
This indeed read like a two star review. If it had been, some of Pete's prose would come across as winking endearments. With one star and very few substantive critiques, the same prose sounds a little jaded and churlish.
1
Although I love reading Pete Wells's reviews, I have been consistently baffled over the last couple of years by the number of stars that end up being given to each restaurant in question. There seems to be absolutely no relationship between what he tells us the restaurant, its service, its ambiance, and its food are like and the number of final judgmental stars.
Given everything he wrote about this place, I would have certainly thought that it would be rated as two stars, possibly even three. But one?
I see that I am not alone in being baffled by this....
Given everything he wrote about this place, I would have certainly thought that it would be rated as two stars, possibly even three. But one?
I see that I am not alone in being baffled by this....
6
There seems to be a lot of confusion over the way the article read vs. the stars conferred, but it actually matches my experience. In fact, despite agreeing qualitatively, I think one star is kind. It suggests that although the restaurant's food actually isn't very good, he hates to speak ill of it because it was so charming and well intentioned.
To wit, when he says that on some nights the schnitzel "doesn't crunch as emphatically as you want it to", he's basically romanticizing the fact that the wiener schnitzel is often clumsily and poorly executed. In no way should that be praiseworthy, but he is charmed enough to rationalize it as part of trying to seem like a longer-tenured restaurant. In my experience, the schnitzel was just mediocre and sloppy. A huge gaffe at a restaurant that is playing at being traditional Austrian. And even worse in light of all the infinitely better schnitzels available in town, such as the ones at Seasonal and Edi & The Wolf. Wells was kind not to trash it.
Similarly, he wrote about the about the spaetzle in the goulash, but doesn't actually praise the goulash itself. It's as if he's trying to avoid mentioning that the meat was embarrassingly poorly butchered. Every bite contained connective tissue, unpleasantly jiggly bits, or stuff you'd want trimmed off in a version costing $30. Wells wanted to like the place more than he did, but their actual food is sub par, and if you're going to try to produce nostalgia, that requires better execution.
To wit, when he says that on some nights the schnitzel "doesn't crunch as emphatically as you want it to", he's basically romanticizing the fact that the wiener schnitzel is often clumsily and poorly executed. In no way should that be praiseworthy, but he is charmed enough to rationalize it as part of trying to seem like a longer-tenured restaurant. In my experience, the schnitzel was just mediocre and sloppy. A huge gaffe at a restaurant that is playing at being traditional Austrian. And even worse in light of all the infinitely better schnitzels available in town, such as the ones at Seasonal and Edi & The Wolf. Wells was kind not to trash it.
Similarly, he wrote about the about the spaetzle in the goulash, but doesn't actually praise the goulash itself. It's as if he's trying to avoid mentioning that the meat was embarrassingly poorly butchered. Every bite contained connective tissue, unpleasantly jiggly bits, or stuff you'd want trimmed off in a version costing $30. Wells wanted to like the place more than he did, but their actual food is sub par, and if you're going to try to produce nostalgia, that requires better execution.
2
I am just amazed that you reviewed a restaurant on the UES. I know you have written about a few in the 60s, but rarely if ever in the 70s-90s except possibly Morini. There are many readers and great restaurants there.
I even suggested you do a tour of the many red sauce establishments, Nicola's Parma, Paola's, Elio's. These are packed every night but rarely reviewed.
I even suggested you do a tour of the many red sauce establishments, Nicola's Parma, Paola's, Elio's. These are packed every night but rarely reviewed.
4
I, too, was expecting two stars at the end of this review.
11
As fabulous as the server came across to the reviewer, there are "refined" grappas superior to brandy, especially the sort given away at the end of a meal to restaurant patrons.
2
I am a close friend of Peter, so full disclosure up front. As I read your review, I was sure that you would be giving the restaurant at least two stars. It has only been open four months, so a few inconsistencies could be forgiven, it seems to me. Especially when the high points are as high as they are. For those who are lucky enough to know Peter and his wonderful, talented family, this will motivate them to work even harder to wring out the inconsistencies and make Grunauer Bistro every bit as good as any of their other successful restaurants. Meanwhile, I can still taste the Tafelspitz I had there a couple of months ago. I can't wait to go back!
9
I had the chicken schnitzel and I'm still thinking about it three weeks later. Crunchy and light.
I also thought the review was a two star one.
I also thought the review was a two star one.
20
This sounds delightful both the food and the service, why only 1 star?
20
Only one star??? Seems to me it's easily a two star review. The charm of the restaurant, the courtly service, the food that runs the gamut from rustic to refined...am on my way from Greenwich Village to Yorkville. You've made me a believer Mr Wells.
24
One star? I don't get it.
16
Once again, the star system fail us, though Most Revered Pete Wells does not.
How can this be a one star meal?
Oh well, at least it this delightful review opens a window into the culinary world’s best kept secret: German and Austrian cuisine. For all of its weaknesses, it’s a cuisine of the land, the people, and, when it’s done right, a cuisine of refinement and grace.
There’s a reason after all that France’s best known pastries, such as the Croissant, are known as Viennoiseries.
How can this be a one star meal?
Oh well, at least it this delightful review opens a window into the culinary world’s best kept secret: German and Austrian cuisine. For all of its weaknesses, it’s a cuisine of the land, the people, and, when it’s done right, a cuisine of refinement and grace.
There’s a reason after all that France’s best known pastries, such as the Croissant, are known as Viennoiseries.
32
I think I get it. The trouble lies not with the cooking, but with the cuisine.
Viennoiserie not withstanding, Austrian cuisine is limited. Thomas Slivovsky is probably an excellent chef, but if there has to be Wiener schnitzel, and sure enough, there it is, then it doesn't leave the chef much room for maneuver.
At Wallsé, on the other end of town, Kurt Guttenbrunner plays more outside the box, even if the Wiener schnitzel is there, as, apparently, it must be.
Rock on, MRMP; an excellent review. And I am glad to have an UES neighborhood gem to add to Cafe d'Alsace, which hands down serves the best food above 79th Street.
Viennoiserie not withstanding, Austrian cuisine is limited. Thomas Slivovsky is probably an excellent chef, but if there has to be Wiener schnitzel, and sure enough, there it is, then it doesn't leave the chef much room for maneuver.
At Wallsé, on the other end of town, Kurt Guttenbrunner plays more outside the box, even if the Wiener schnitzel is there, as, apparently, it must be.
Rock on, MRMP; an excellent review. And I am glad to have an UES neighborhood gem to add to Cafe d'Alsace, which hands down serves the best food above 79th Street.
6