Pizza From the Grain Up

Apr 27, 2016 · 78 comments
bhs (Ohio)
There are objectionable laws in every state in the union. If we boycott states with lax gun laws, limits on abortion, unfair taxes on the lower middle class, and slashes in social programs, we would never leave the house. Our trip to Asheville is on. Punishing small business owners in one of the most liberal cities in America seems counterproductive.
Seneca (Rome)
What luck to find this article in the Times. I'll be in Ashevile the first week of June for a wedding and now I can't wait to go to All Souls Pizza. I've heard many great things about Asheville and this must be a prime example of its progressive reputation. And with the absence of the narrow-minded boycotters who lump all the people of an entire state into one category, the very definition of prejudice and intolerance, Asheville will be a particular joy to visit.
robert (mobile)
Sounds fabulous, can't wait to go!
Politically, thank goodness there are plenty of us out here in the "backward" states willing to be castigated continually by perfect states like New York and Massachusetts--places I also love--we are pushing and pulling with some wins and losses, but we are mostly better than our politicians and we are glad to live where we do. I find perfection boring.
Stu Helm (Asheville, NC)
Please, people of NYC, if you want to drive the haters in Raleigh absolutely nuts, come show us some love up here in the grooviest little city in American, and if you absolutely positively have to boycott something, focus in, narrow your target, and hit the Republicans where they (actually literally) live. Boycott Raleigh. ‪#‎BoycottRaleigh‬
Carl (<br/>)
The only money I will spend in North Carolina, is for fuel on the highways, to drive straight thru...!!!
susan paul (asheville,NC)
This great place is a stone's throw from my house. I moved to Asheville 18 years ago, after being born, bred, and 50 years in NYC, the last 30, in Manhattan. Major culture shock for many years, BUT, not because of its' liberal attitudes to those who are not from the middle of the road. I am an urban person, Asheville is a southern town; it is not a perfect fit for me. But, any place named "Cistern of Sin" by our own state politician, a few years ago, can't be all bad, especially when compared to the vile hatred and totally un-christian attitudes of those who do sadly get into power here, despite the many of us who DO NOT VOTE FOR THEM.
Debbie Crane (Hillsborough, NC)
First, my own review - this is an excellent restaurant and a welcome addition to the Asheville scene. Second, it is ridiculous that the comments here devolved into political diatribe. When you boycott NC over HB2 you are hurting the working people of this state. And, if you had any knowledge of Asheville you would know that the restaurants there are staffed by young liberal folks. At my last outing in Asheville, not at this restaurant, I was served by a trans waitress. One of my former co-workers, a lesbian, is worried that she is going to lose her ability to put herself through community college because of this backlash. Your boycott is hurting people of the LGBT community and it is hurting people of color and the millions of us who don't support HB2. It isn't hurting the mean people who voted for this legislation; they are using it to play to their base. And, while HB 2 is terrible, why didn't you boycott the state when this same legislature refuses to expand Medicaid, lets children go hungry and cuts childcare subsidies for the working poor? All of those horrific decisions disproportionaltely affected people of color and the working poor. We are doing everything we can down here to change the tide, but you aren't helping.
Ms Cue (NC)
I was born in NC and lived my entire adult life in Manhattan. When I returned I realized I had come back to the plantation.

Bad press generated by the bad actions of our current masters in Raleigh - the elected and those who pull their strings - is necessary and painful. The economic backlash against progressive business owners is painful. Getting tarred by the brush that paints NC residents as backward, racist and ignorant is painful. Trying to get this state born, one vote at a time, into the post-Civil War era is painful.
WFH (Florida)
Asheville is perhaps the most liberal and accepting city in the State of North Carolina. It is a town of bookstores, antique shops, independent restaurants, funky clothing stores and artisans of all kinds. It is very laid back, and for those that complained that it was too touristy, perhaps they lack the imagination to discover it's true core. As for the NC legislation, it is a shame to punish this free-thinking city because of the little minds that inhabit the rural areas of the state. Why should you punish a city which by it's very nature is the antithesis of closed mindedness? As a gay man, I will support its independent spirit. I look forward to to eating it's pizza in the upcoming months.
Rufus T. Firefly (NYC)
I was delighted when my parents moved to western NC in the late 80's.
They proved you actually could travel back in time.
andystac (berkeley, ca.)
to all who are commenting that it is unfair to paint the citizens on NC with a broad brush but sorry that's the way it works. the laws you passed apply to all of your citizens even if you are against them. this law is all of yours, the law and its consequences apply to all.
Skip (Harbor Springs, MI)
I really wanted to think about mouth-watering pizza as I read this article, but my mind kept going to narrow-minded bigots. That's what the North Carolina legislature and governor and the people who voted for them have unfairly done to the potential of their once beautiful state.
Lisa (NC)
Alas, I haven't had any pizza from All Souls, aside from when they first opened. But David Bauer is a dough master, for sure, and his bread is wonderful. I'll endure the noisy restaurant again, based on this review.

And for those of you that think NC is a some sort of wasteland because of HB2, please. Asheville is a wonderful eclectic and very welcoming mountain town.

Please don't cancel visits to the WNC mountains because of the oddities of our state government.
liya (Virginia)
Can't wait to go to Asheville to try this!
Old blue (Chapel Hill, N.C.)
I was born and raised and have lived in NC for 65 years and I say BOYCOTT!
DrB (<br/>)
Maybe all of us LGBT folks should plan to go to NC en masse and really scare them!
susan levine (chapel hill, NC)
Yes Yes a march on Raleigh. A big March. Come on down soon!
Lynn (Chapel Hill NC)
It's a shame that the comments about this excellent restaurant quickly turned into a political scourge. The venom behind HB2 is indefensible and the law should be repealed. However, to paint every citizen in NC with the same broad brush is its own form of backward mentality and bigotry. NYC produced Trump. Is each and every NYC enterprise and resident, including those who commented here with such derision, culpable for him and his views?
Justin_Thyme (Honolulu)
There's a big difference, Lynn, between NC and NYC. NC voters elected their lawmakers, whereas no one has ever elected Trump to any lawmaking office. North Carolinians share individual and collective responsibility for their decisions to elect backward-thinking bigots into political office. Please don't confuse the argument. Instead, start actively identifying progressive candidates who can unseat those who pushed HB2, then donate to the progressives' campaigns, campaign for them, write letters to news media and blog about the issues, and encourage your friends and acquaintances to do the same.
don salmon (asheville nc)
@Justin_Thyme I'm heading out to All Soul's Pizza tomorrow night, and thought I'd glance at the reviews. Wow. I wonder if folks think differently now that we've elected a Democratic governor. Justin, by your logic, anyone who lives anywhere that elected anyone who is anti-LGBT, anti-whatever you think is so important, should move. So, Justin, tell me - Honolulu, really, where the big landlords are making it impossible for all but the richest to live) - have you booked your ticked to Mars yet, since that seems to be the only place that would really meet your standards?
geromimo (santa cruz)
I have milled my own grain for years, the difference between fresh milled and store bought is as night and day. Just about any whole grain one desires can be purchased (in bulk) at any good Organic food store. I love to mix grains; corn, buckwheat, wheat and quinoa is my favorite combination.
gail (Connecticut River Valley)
I love the Asheville area and hate the idea of punishing the good folks there for the misdeeds of the rest of the state. But, there you are. My husband insists we spend no money in North Carolina until things change back to the state that used to be the Good Carolina.
Elizabeth Stith (<br/>)
This really makes me wish I could go there, but that will require action by the NC legislature
judgeroybean (ohio)
I remember bringing a pizzeria pizza to my best friend's house in the 1960's. His dad took one look at it and said, "That's a no pizza." His father was from Italy, and all that stuff on dough didn't resemble pizza that he knew from Italy.
I'm sure artisanal pizza is good. But how much better can it be than can be found from any local place across the country? Not worth what that place is charging. Pizza should be cheap and plentiful.
Rick C. (St. Louis, MO)
The pizza looks and sounds great but I won't set foot inside North Carolina nor will I spend a dollar in that state where any amount will go toward supporting their repressive government. It is a shame that businesses like this are going to suffer due to declines in tourism and fewer businesses expanding there.
Elizabeth (West palm beach)
Love NC and especially Asheville, but me, my friends, and our tourist dollars are going elsewhere until the backwards mentality takes the back seat again instead of the steering wheel.
Liberty Apples (Providence)
North Carolina? Is everyone allowed to order it?
Mike &amp; Dee (Western NC)
Yes everyone can order and eat it, this is Asheville NC. A progressive city in the South. We gave Obama a majority twice, we are very LGBT friendly, our Mayor is a Jewish woman, our Chief of Police is a gay woman. We are a liberal outpost faced with suffering the fallout of the GOP jerks. Luckily, I live here and plan to eat lots of this pizza! I think the locals will keep our wonderful small city afloat for awhile.

I'm glad people are boycotting our State, it is the only way to keep this in the news and force the issue. I expect you to come back when this terrible law gets put in the dust bin. By the way, the hard liners are doubling down refusing to deal with it. Keep up the boycott!
Ellen (San Diego)
Are we talking about pizza or politics?? In any case, we're talking about a lot of dough...

(sorry. i just had to say that)
DK (CA)
I love bread in all its forms. I adore pizza, and these pizzas look like exactly the sort I like--with that gorgeous, slightly blistered crust.
Sadly I have decided to cancel a planned visit to NC. No state that is not truly "welcoming" to all is going to get my business. I don't care how many banners are hung out in welcome, but until the regular folks put into place a state government that genuinely seeks "liberty and justice for all", those banners begging for my business ring hollow.
Karen (New York City)
I was underwhelmed by Asheville. I had heard so much about it and had very high expectations and did not find it that special. It is a very touristy area and other than BBQ, food was average to me. Good music scene though.
Jack (Asheville, NC)
Revolutionary Pizza to fuel North Carolina's political revolution and (hopefully) break the chains of the increasingly repressive Republican Party.
timenspace (here)
This sounds so good, great descriptions!
Lisa (<br/>)
Not going to start milling my own flour. But I might go back and check out Anson Mills, which has been a pioneer of sorts with regard to the growing of heirloom grains. Before investing in its fine products, however, I think I have to sharpen my skills!
slk (NC)
By the way, y'all should know there is much more under the covers of the NC law that are more insidious than the so-called bathroom law. The law now makes it impossible to sue your employer in state courts for employment discrimination and strips cites from the ability to pass their own related ordinances, among other turn-back-the-clock provisions. And NC isn't alone. The more publicity about this the better, even if there is short term consumer uproar. But don't hurt the little guys in Asheville. Much to the dismay of the rest of the state, Asheville is a home of progressive sentiment and politics. If you want a battle to fight, help us overturn the abysmal voting rights laws and leave the bathroom distractions alone for awhile.
DK (CA)
I am sorry for the progressives that are hurt by the boycotts over the NC pro-discrimination law. But that is kind of the point--innocents are hurt by that law.
Stephen Rinsler (Arden, NC)
We live next to Asheville and have enjoyed the pizza at All Souls and alsoDave's great bread and (ta-da) bialys.

As noted by another commenter, the restrooms at All Souls are unisex.

We agree that the state govrrnment is lousy now and don't support it's actions.

Hoping our fellow citizns are seeing the light and throw the rascals out in the next election.

Feel the Bern.
SteveF (<br/>)
I make great wood-fired pizza, using imported "00" flour, multi-day fermentations, yada yada... I recently bought a grain mill, dreaming of pizzas like these, and discovered one HELL of a learning curve. You can't use recipes; you have to literally feel the grain. I'll never get within a hundred miles of what this young guy has mastered, but it's fun to try, and in the meantime people still eat anything triangular I throw at them.
Counter Measures (Old Borough Park, NY)
I use to deliver for the Legendary (but no more!) J and V pizzeria on Eighteenth Avenue on the border of Bensonhurst and the old Borough Park in southern Brooklyn where the Pizza and Bagels were supreme! Having been to Brooklyn South Pizza in the Cornelius and Huntersville area just north of Charlotte in The Tar Heel State, I must admit, it's darn good! There must be a Brooklyn connection, or perhaps they found the right water! Try it! You just might like it.
Joseph Kaye (Ft. Myers, FL)
North Carolina? No deal. Sounds delicious, though.
yewbiquity (NC)
As emphasized above, Asheville is NOT "north carolina--no deal" but a wonderful place we live where incredible diversity of all kinds is celebrated and all kinds of lives and food and religions and nonreligions, you name it, can be found here. the bills in Raleigh are against Asheville most of the time, trying to keep us from a living wage here, owning our water system, preventing discrimination.
Dectra (Washington, DC)
While the pizza sounds wonderful, sadly I will pass. Can't give my (sales tax) money to a State run by Bigots.
Vostrowe (Texas)
Sounds great.
What a shame it's in North Carolina where Neanderthal social policy will keep me away.
J Reaves (NC)
It's easy to be moral when you don't actually think about the consequences. When you penalize NC businesses in areas like Charlotte and Asheville, you penalize the very progressive communities that caused the conservative backlash in the first place. The repressive NC legislature enacted these laws in response to inclusive local laws and policies of cities and businesses like All Souls Pizza.

So yeah - you go ahead and punish us all for the actions of the bigots that gerrymandered themselves into office.
Richard Lachmann (Albany, New York)
If the legislators are safely gerrymandered into offie, the only way to pressure them is through boycotts and protests. So far the Moral Mondays haven't moved the Republicans, so outside pressure is the remaining possibility.
GMBHanson (Vermont)
So the alternative is to set aside support for my transgendered friends? I figure that businesses in Charlotte and Asheville can survive this boycott. They may lose customers. They may lose some income. As for my LGBT friends? They could lose their lives by defying these kind of repressive and bigoted laws. Sorry.
JPM (Hays, KS)
I have been milling my own flour for many years. Most people have no idea that what is sold as "100% whole wheat" flour in supermarkets is little more than starch dust with all the germ and bran sifted out. They shouldn't even be allowed to call it that, but the USDA is almost useless when it comes to protecting our food supply from Big Food interests.
Mark Bishop (NY)
Sounds great, and would love to try it, but we canceled our summer vacation to NC due to the bigotry of its lawmakers.
DR Bryan (Chapel Hill, NC)
If it's not too late, make sure that you try the pizza with ramps. And the appetizers...Mmm!
Rachel (<br/>)
It's pure torture to read about pizza during Passover. NYT, you are cruel.
another expat (Japan)
He might be able to do some artisanal matzo...
Luddite (<br/>)
As in Dan Barber's April 15th article article about Matzo (http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/17/opinion/sunday/why-is-this-matzo-diffe..., it's all about the grain. Disheartening to a home-made-bread baker like me, who can only get supermarket flour.
Prefers A. Nonymity (Greenwich CT)
Whole Foods sells wheat berries in bulk. Many stores carry Bob's Red Mill whole grains. And there's this also place you can order things from called the internet.

Get yourself a mill, or a high powered blender like a Vitamix, and freshly ground flour, in any proportion you like, is at your disposal.
Jim (<br/>)
This place by itself could make Asheville a destination! Not to mention revolutionize the pizza business. Bravo!
Jay (&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;)
Asheville is already a great destination, unfortunately it is located in NC.
yewbiquity (NC)
Even so, we are unique and NOT like the rest of NC. Do come!
David F (Asheville)
Oh no. The good ship Gray Lady has docked in AVL and discovered a local tasty morsel to promote to the Corps of Gentrifiers. Another favorite of the provincials is doomed!
Laurence (Bachmann)
Don't worry. Lots of people would never spend their dollars in North Carolina, regardless of how worthy one particular eatery might be.
Barry (NC)
With due respect to All Souls, there are several other fine pizza establishments in Asheville that take a gourmet spin on pizza, among them, Fresh in the River Arts District, Modesto in the Grove Arcade, and Blue Mountain Pizza in Weaverville. Still, thanks for the coverage of one of the great ones.

As for other comments regarding the state legislature's despicable action, please know that Asheville is a mecca for inclusion and tolerance. I have lived here for ten years and been very impressed with the area's broad acceptance of everyone. We have a large LGBT community here in Asheville and anyone will feel welcome. It is unfortunate that a small group of people with backward ideas have made a great state "undesirable" to visit.
Elizabeth (Asheville, North Carolina)
Barry, you are absolutely right. There are other excellent pizza places in the area, as well as other great restaurants. All of the places you recommend have great pizza, and I'd like to add Asheville Pizza and Brewing and Marco's to your list.

But I still love All Souls.

And, obviously, I agree wholeheartedly with your second paragraph.
Jim (<br/>)
Maybe the lesson for us out-of-staters is not to boycott NC in toto, but to patronize forward-looking places like Asheville! On my next trip, I'm going to commit to stop in Asheville and spend a few bucks!
Charlie B (USA)
Barry,

A boycott is a blunt instrument, hurting the just as well as the unjust. This problem was widely debated in the boycott of apartheid South Africa, as the damage to the economy was painful to the black residents as well as their oppressors. And yet, it was the most successful boycott in history, and in the long run brought freedom to the country.

If it's truly a "small group" passing these laws then you should be able to easily mobilize to vote them out of office and take back your state. My fear, though, is that the bigots are in the majority, and won't change until it hurts in the pocketbook.
Elizabeth (Asheville, North Carolina)
I am delighted to see that The Times has decided to publish a feature on All Souls Pizza. I can't say enough good things about this restaurant. My husband and I have long been fans. One of the pizzas pictured here is topped with turnips and tallegio; it is one of the best things I've ever eaten in my life. And, in general, I don't even like turnips, but these folks work magic on this humble root vegetable. And it's not just the food that makes the place great. Chad, Jill, Molly, Andrew, Connie, and the rest of the staff, are skilled, friendly, and they completely know their food.

To address some of the other comments in this thread; please know that many of us are fighting against the resurgence of bigotry, intolerance, hate, and downright ignorance that has swept over our beloved state during the last couple of years. We are horrified and saddened and frightened. And while if I didn't live here I might also boycott North Carolina, please know that the boycotts are hurting the urban areas, which have long-standing histories of progressive attitudes. Those state legislators who have passed some of the most repressive laws since the Jim Crow era hail largely from the rural areas, which don’t depend on tourism dollars at all.

And to my fellow North Carolinians who choose to pursue an agenda of hate: "Awww, bless your hearts." We all know exactly what that means.

P.S. My husband asked me to please suggest that y'all hold off on trying out All Souls until tomorrow night.
etkindh1 (erwin, tn)
We live an hour north of Asheville on the Tennessee side and visit often. Our go to pizza joint has always been Asheville Brewing and Pizza, but we will give all souls a try.

We continue to support the LBGT friendly Asheville.

Howard
Andi Gunn (St Marys, GA)
I am concerned about a blanket ban on travel to NC. Cities like Asheville and Charlotte stand out as supporters of LGBT issues in the state. These cities and their businesses need support, particularly, during these times. I will be going to Asheville and will seek out businesses who support the civil righs of all citizens. And this pizza sounds delectable!
Charlie B (USA)
This article sharess the home page with one about the affirmation of North Carolina's voter id law, designed to suppress voting by the poor. The state's new anti-LGBT law is engendering boycotts by businesses and individuals.

With this backdrop, an article implicitly encouraging tourism to North Carolina seems like a bizarre editorial choice. There's plenty of good pizza in places that welcome everyone.
Mimi (Dubai)
North Carolina still exists as a place, and a tremendous number of the citizens are blameless. There is no reason to condemn people like Mr. Bauer, who is just trying to sell pizzas made of special grains. Asheville is as welcoming a town as you could hope for, especially for alternative lifestyles.
Ryan Bingham (Up there)
I don't believe Asheville is the problem.
Diane (<br/>)
All Soul's has always had unisex bathrooms. They welcome everyone. They do not support HB2. Here in NC we are horrified by HB2 but refusing to patronize small businesses is not going to change the law. Write a letter to the governor!
Justin_Thyme (Honolulu)
The pizza sounds wonderful. It's a shame I won't be enjoying it, or anything else in or from North Carolina, unless and until the state reverses its many anti-civil-rights laws and policies and joins the more enlightened states. Many people agree with my stance. Those who support full equal rights for EVERYONE will shun North Carolina, its ideologies and its wares. As a start, my brilliant daughter has chosen not to accept her early-approved entrance application to Duke University. The fat checks that I write for tuition, room and board, books, etc. ($67,000+ per year for 2017) will benefit another top university instead, and her personal spending while at university will enrich the economy of a non-bigoted state that doesn't condone unfair discrimination. Voting with our dollars is the most powerful tool to encourage enlightenment, even if it's coerced.
Nancy (<br/>)
Yes, but you do realize there is no place in North Carolina more aghast at HB2 than the good folks of Asheville.
Jim (&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;)
Maybe Asheville can annex Duke!
ExPeterC (Bear Territory)
Not having your daughter attend Duke is analogous to her not attending an all black school during South Africa's apartheid
ExPeterC (Bear Territory)
Asheville has a great food, music and craft scene. This place is terrific but there are many others with creative twists on traditional southern kitchens. A real jewel. Can't wait to go back
Riggs (<br/>)
I am on my way down right now for an All souls Pizza from Dave!!!
Expat Steve in France (<br/>)
And at what temperature in a commercial pizza oven? Overnight fermentation?
Ann C. (New Jersey)
Recipes, please! I'd love to try a recipe at home, even if it has to modified slightly for a cooler home oven. the pizza sounds wonderful--it's one more reason to visit Asheville.
Coco Pazzo (<br/>)
The recipe is more or less the same as for any pizza.(See cooking.newyorktimes.com for ideas)
As the article states, the key is the flour. So if you grind your own flour, you are on your way!