The writer is a bit fragile IMHO ... I experienced these wonderful hot pools which were 30C, 40 and HOTTER in the 1970's when I worked for Icelandic Airlines and found this experience not intimidating at all! I grew up going to the YWCA pools, town pools and later years the NYC Health Clubs where everyone showered before entering the pool area. I really enjoyed being in the colder air temps and relaxing in the warm waters from the earth and the heating of the homes with geo-thermal electricity and really hot water from the faucets was great too!! My co-worker in NYC was a native born Icelander so we visited his family which offered us the true blue Icelandic experience!!
1
That picture of the pool in Hofsos: wow, just wow!! I could relax in there with that view for hours until I was shriveled up like a raisin.
1
Reminds me of the Japanese "onsen" (hot water communal baths).
4
The waters are "mineral rich." Lithium? Ancient Romans discovered they could recover from their three day food, sex and wine orgies by soaking in a spring outside the city. The waters were rich with lithium.
3
This sounds like a great experience--and I can't wait to experience it, myself.
1
A great way to bind the community together. Too often in US society, there is not enough mingling of all ages in a social activity.
Years ago I was up in Alaska for automotive vehicle testing in the cold temperatures. The team stayed at a place at the end of the road called Circle Hot Springs. Amazingly enough, walking barefoot across the -10 degree sidewalk and ice around the hot pool did not feel bad at all. Most of us had a great soak in the hot pool, toweled off pool side and walked back into the rustic hotel we were staying at.
Years ago I was up in Alaska for automotive vehicle testing in the cold temperatures. The team stayed at a place at the end of the road called Circle Hot Springs. Amazingly enough, walking barefoot across the -10 degree sidewalk and ice around the hot pool did not feel bad at all. Most of us had a great soak in the hot pool, toweled off pool side and walked back into the rustic hotel we were staying at.
2
Some members of my family plan their driving vacations around hot springs. Drive, Soak, Drive, Soak. It is great. Go to Wiki Travel and look up hot springs. There are quite a few in the U.S. In Wyoming there are two public springs that are easily accessible. One is in northern Wyoming and one is in southern Wyoming. And coincidentally they are about a days drive apart.
3
At any given time, there are probably more people riding the London Underground than there are in all of Iceland!
2
Canada has many informal, "undeveloped" hot pools . . . near a highway or at the end of a 15 minute drive deep into thick forest above the valley. British Columbia, the sprawling provincial giant on the west coast, immediately above Washington State, is especially blessed with thermal hot springs.
It is both a thrill, an escape, and a marvelously mind-expandng and body soothing adventure to either join others in the skin-tingling, "Ouch-its-so-hot!" pool beside a "fish-freezing" torrent of glacial runoff, built by two trappers a century and a half earlier, who were trapped by an unseasonal cold snap for the entire winter, to wonder about them, to share sandwiches, hot chocolate, wine or beer with family and newfound acquaintances--to find that as the heat and slosh, the view of frosted trees close above and in all direction, pointing inevitably to the stars far above, loosens fears, broadens childlike delight, and all sensations together producing trust in the benevolence, well-meaningness and uncomplicated good will of a complete stranger sitting nearby.
My family and I have spent many an evening and a few entire nights floating in the warming, liquid arms of Mother Earth.
Icelanders have embraced the obvious.
It is both a thrill, an escape, and a marvelously mind-expandng and body soothing adventure to either join others in the skin-tingling, "Ouch-its-so-hot!" pool beside a "fish-freezing" torrent of glacial runoff, built by two trappers a century and a half earlier, who were trapped by an unseasonal cold snap for the entire winter, to wonder about them, to share sandwiches, hot chocolate, wine or beer with family and newfound acquaintances--to find that as the heat and slosh, the view of frosted trees close above and in all direction, pointing inevitably to the stars far above, loosens fears, broadens childlike delight, and all sensations together producing trust in the benevolence, well-meaningness and uncomplicated good will of a complete stranger sitting nearby.
My family and I have spent many an evening and a few entire nights floating in the warming, liquid arms of Mother Earth.
Icelanders have embraced the obvious.
9
What a well written article. I wished I could have closed my eyes while reading it because it takes you there and the mood embraces you as well. Of course I spilled my coffee when I've read the part about "but my own appreciation of it was somewhat impeded by Snorri’s delivery of it in the nude, his left foot on the sink, stretching like a ballet dancer at the barre." I had such a clear picture of it in the back of my mind. hahaha This article relaxed me. It was a delight reading it. Well done Dan and thank you for my smiles now :)
7
What a terrific job of capturing the zeitgeist of a community. Many things make up the Icelandic calm; homogeneity of the population gets them started, but there's no denying something metaphysical happens when anxious, sluggish, aching, freezing, expectant bodies encounter the hot water early in the morning.
6
Very interesting piece of journalism. Good enough that (I can't believe I'm saying this) I'm even willing to visit Slate.com to read more work from the author. I wish I had my own hot pool to meditate in before I browse over there...
1
I dearly miss my hot tub when my wife and I lived in Michigan. Our home was on Lake Michigan, about 45 miles across the lake from Chicago. Especially on clear winter nights, we'd step quickly from the house and into the steaming hot tub, and whether it was to take in all the stars above (far from the light pollution of any cities) or to enjoy watching the specs of light that were the jets arriving and leaving Midway and O'Hare airports in Chicago, the silence combined with the soothing heat were true medicine. No screens, no intrusions. Bliss.
3
45 minutes...St. Joseph? New Buffalo?
This reminds me of project management meetings in a Seychelles lagoon at the end of the day usually with sufficient light in the sky but pre-laptop and no pens or paper. And as for the homogeneity trope in this discussion, you could hardly find a more diverse indigenous society. Project delivered on time and on budget with great happiness for all.
1
The Romans united diverse people several thousand years ago with their public baths. Perhaps there is something to it.
In Hong Kong, where I live, the tax rate is about 15% - with no sales or capital gains taxes. Public services are incredible here. Public transportation is incredibly frequent and efficient. Subways and buses dovetail in well-designed transportation hubs.
In-city train stations enable one to check bags and connect to a sleek, modern airport where passing through customs is a breeze, using only an ID card.
That ID card enables you to go on-line to reserve books at a plethora of libraries, to reserve public recreational space, etc. Each neighborhood has excellent public recreation facilities that cater for all sorts of indoor sports and pastimes. An "Octopus" card can be used to pay for subways and buses, and and to purchase groceries and things in shops. It can be linked to one's credit card, negating the need to ever recharge it.
Compare this level of service to anything you've experienced in any city In the United States, where public recreational facilities and transportation systems pale in comparison.
Why is this so, when US tax rates are so much higher? Because US politicians employ patriotism as a propaganda tool. So long as people don’t challenge the “greatest country on earth" mythology they’ll continue to allow politicians to spend gargantuan amounts of money on “defense” rather than basic human services. Take a walk through a poor neighborhood or a drive through a poor rural area. Then ask yourself if the US is doing right by its people.
In-city train stations enable one to check bags and connect to a sleek, modern airport where passing through customs is a breeze, using only an ID card.
That ID card enables you to go on-line to reserve books at a plethora of libraries, to reserve public recreational space, etc. Each neighborhood has excellent public recreation facilities that cater for all sorts of indoor sports and pastimes. An "Octopus" card can be used to pay for subways and buses, and and to purchase groceries and things in shops. It can be linked to one's credit card, negating the need to ever recharge it.
Compare this level of service to anything you've experienced in any city In the United States, where public recreational facilities and transportation systems pale in comparison.
Why is this so, when US tax rates are so much higher? Because US politicians employ patriotism as a propaganda tool. So long as people don’t challenge the “greatest country on earth" mythology they’ll continue to allow politicians to spend gargantuan amounts of money on “defense” rather than basic human services. Take a walk through a poor neighborhood or a drive through a poor rural area. Then ask yourself if the US is doing right by its people.
8
What about cost of living in HK in general Richard ? I'm asking because as a US citizen working in the Gulf region I sometimes wonder about the same points that you've raised . Every time I visit home, cant help but be struck by how ,frankly, dilapidated all the infrastructure seem to be and it only seems to be getting worse ! As for quality of life - work-life balance is practically non-existent, people with 75k+ jobs still complaining about bills and more bills & not been able to save and the list goes on.
2
re all the comments whether Iceland's homogeneity is the cause of its happiness versus the diversity of Americans and our ongoing rancor (there is another NYT article that US suicide is having a 30 year peak moment): at the very least, the Icelanders appear willing to spend public money on well built, maintained, and run public services for no other reason than it makes life better. We don't seem to do that anymore.
22
The Russian Baths on East 10th Street, NYC, is obviously a plea and Icelandic outpost for peace in an otherwise cacaphonous American world.
2
I think you forgot to mention that people can't stare at their cell phones or laptops in the pools!
20
I was in the Myvatn lagoon last week and someone was definitely on their cellphone, alas the upside is you can drink beer in the pool.
1
Isn't that why they made the Galaxy S7 IP69-rated waterproof?
2
endless free geothermal energy, unlike the thousand dollar utility bills dished out to American Hotub users in even moderate latitudes. i'm envious, and curious. Will Elon Musk have a solution for this as well? Should i invest in a well drilling venture? Maybe the slow increase in global temperatures will change all this, permanently. ;-))
1
That's the one thing we miss about our Mercer Island home with its hot tub out from our Master Bedroom. JGAIA-
2
We have a public pool in downtown Toronto (Canada) which I use daily, the best part of it is meeting friends and socializing after our rounds in the hot tub and It is a delightful part of my day. I have made very good friends over time. The downside is not having the "Warden" and some people would enter the pool in full clothing because of religious beliefs. It seems politically correctness went too far!
6
I thought about this article and though it's not exactly the same... I do get some enjoyment going to my local YMCA. There are people of all ages 1-90 and I enjoy going in the Jacuzzi after my workout. Sometimes there is some friendly chatter. It's nice to get out among people when I have been working at home all day.
5
Yeah but the heavy chlorine in YMCA pools is overwhelming
7
Thanks for the great read!
2
The problem is that this silly idea will now be the new universal trending
The secret to Iceland's happiness isn't water, and it's not the weather. It's called a homogeneous population. While we all love to visit diverse places, enjoy new foods, hear new languages, and experience a new holiday celebration, most want to live with like-minded people. Sorry, I know it's not PC, but it's true.
11
The Icelanders know how to live. Not only do they enjoy the natural geothermally heated open air swimming pools and hot tubs, they make wise use of nature's geothermal bounty by heating their houses and even the city sidewalks with the natural geothermal energy.
2
Good point. On the flip side, why are they so reticent with each other, neighbors and other familiar people on the street? Still, Iceland seems to be a far more tranquil society than other places. Does anyone know how many Mideast Islamic refugees and migrants there are in Iceland?
4
The government pledged to take at least 50 but then over 11,000 Icelanders volunteered to house refugees IN THEIR HOMES. The first refugees arrived in Feb.
http://time.com/4018241/iceland-syria-refugees/
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/iceland/12165357/Meet-I...
http://time.com/4018241/iceland-syria-refugees/
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/iceland/12165357/Meet-I...
1
Wonderful article! Sums up exactly how I felt this past summer. At the end of our volunteering days, my host would drive us and other volunteers to the tiny pool in Stokkseyri. So relaxing and wonderful. Such a delightful part of the culture that I could really get used to in America!
7
Thanks for the wonderful article. It makes me want to visit Iceland more than ever. I love how the water brings people together and gives them a chance to interact while stripped down to their basics.
Here in Idaho, we are not making full use of our abundant geothermal resources. My place of work is heated by a geothermal spring that also feeds a fountain in front of our office. On a cold February day as the steam rose from the fountain, I told my boss that we should don our Speedos and take a dip. He looked at me like I was crazy. Honestly, though, turning that fountain into a warm, wet meeting place would do wonders for our culture. I doubt Icelanders would bother building a spring fed fountain that couldn't double as a gathering place.
Here in Idaho, we are not making full use of our abundant geothermal resources. My place of work is heated by a geothermal spring that also feeds a fountain in front of our office. On a cold February day as the steam rose from the fountain, I told my boss that we should don our Speedos and take a dip. He looked at me like I was crazy. Honestly, though, turning that fountain into a warm, wet meeting place would do wonders for our culture. I doubt Icelanders would bother building a spring fed fountain that couldn't double as a gathering place.
21
What a shame and waste that your state is not using its natural resources to this end. I think these baths would save on mental health costs and if successfully administrated might bring tourists and revenue into Idaho. Why don't you show this article to your boss, mayor and governor?
We must have many geothermal springs of this type in the U.S. Wondering if there are any in close proximity to where I live in NY as I would certainly visit and even consider a vacation to such a spot, being that my experience at the springs in Albuquerque was so memorable. NYTimes, please follow up with info about extant and status of geothermal springs in the U.S.
We must have many geothermal springs of this type in the U.S. Wondering if there are any in close proximity to where I live in NY as I would certainly visit and even consider a vacation to such a spot, being that my experience at the springs in Albuquerque was so memorable. NYTimes, please follow up with info about extant and status of geothermal springs in the U.S.
8
We should all die and come back as seals on the beach. That what these pictures remind me of.
1
Iceland sits astride the mid-Atlantic Ridge, and is built entirely from the products of volcanic eruptions ... a few of which occur every couple of years or so. In this geologic setting Iceland is blessed with incredible amounts of geothermal energy at easily drillable depths. It's hard to drill a water well an NOT get hot water. Virtually all buildings in Iceland are heated with this water, and in combination with hydro, Iceland generates all of its electricity without burning carbon-based fuel.
10
@ Wendell Duffield - WD you are of course correct but even in non volcanic New England, for example, there is ready access to energy from the bedrock via a technology that in Swedish is called "bergvärme" (bedrock heat) and in the US by various names where the one I use is Ground-source geothermal heat pump technology (GSG). In a reply to a comment by me on GSG a reader in Oregon reported that he had installed GSG at his home and had seen his heating costs decrease by one third. He wrote that the US should require this technology in all new homes. That is not possible but the least the US government and the NYT could do is inform the people about this. They do not.
This technology is well displayed in Bernie Sanders Vermont at Champlain College and Saint Michaels College.
Only-NeverInSweden.blogspot.com
Dual citizen USA SE
This technology is well displayed in Bernie Sanders Vermont at Champlain College and Saint Michaels College.
Only-NeverInSweden.blogspot.com
Dual citizen USA SE
7
Same thing in Japan (onsen .. hot springs resort)
7
Been there. Done that. It is most certainly the minerals and not the communal aspect that restored my health.
3
I write from one of the Scandinavian countries (Sweden) where according to FSMLives! the secret of historical happiness in these countries is homogeneity of the population.
No, the secret of happiness is to be found in the support systems that perhaps became possible in part because relatively homogeneous populations could agree on having them. But these systems keep new arrivals much happier than they would be without them.
Strangely, FSMLives! jumps from this position by asking us to consider the US where unidentified people insist that their rights trump the common good. FSM leaves out a critical piece of information: Are the behaviors he/she describes are distinctly "American" or are they distinctly related to mixing of ethnicities? I raise the question because of that final sentence that begins with "a motley assortment of religious nuts..." Perhaps you can explain FSM, are the behaviours you name associated with a particular ethnic group, at least in your mind. If you tell me, then we can go further.
Only-NeverInSweden.blogspot.com
No, the secret of happiness is to be found in the support systems that perhaps became possible in part because relatively homogeneous populations could agree on having them. But these systems keep new arrivals much happier than they would be without them.
Strangely, FSMLives! jumps from this position by asking us to consider the US where unidentified people insist that their rights trump the common good. FSM leaves out a critical piece of information: Are the behaviors he/she describes are distinctly "American" or are they distinctly related to mixing of ethnicities? I raise the question because of that final sentence that begins with "a motley assortment of religious nuts..." Perhaps you can explain FSM, are the behaviours you name associated with a particular ethnic group, at least in your mind. If you tell me, then we can go further.
Only-NeverInSweden.blogspot.com
2
Maybe you should contact them directly?
2
One freezing December night during my stay in Albuquerque I bathed in one of these outdoor pools. I recall feeling the most relaxed I had ever been in my life and the experience was never again replicated. We could use some of these in NYC.
5
Really? A folklorist name Valdimar? (or Voldimort?)
My partner and I have been to Reykjavik several times over the last six years. We have enjoyed Iceland Airwaves--an incredible music festival-- and the sights and museums of the city.
What we love most, however, are the 7am trips to the hot pots/communal pools. This is when the locals go. Our hosts in a flat where we stayed insisted we join them for the most local, non-tourist pool. There is no better way to start the day. Thank you, Iceland. I could be very happy living there, and I wish I had the means!
What we love most, however, are the 7am trips to the hot pots/communal pools. This is when the locals go. Our hosts in a flat where we stayed insisted we join them for the most local, non-tourist pool. There is no better way to start the day. Thank you, Iceland. I could be very happy living there, and I wish I had the means!
2
Now this is one heck of a great article! I can attest to how marvelous it feels - and what great benefits come to personal health - from bathing in the public baths in Japan which I have done many times. (This article has led me to decide that my next flight across the "Atlantic Pond" will be via Reykjavik.) The great feeling is not just the warmth of clean hot water after a full wash-down on a small seat before entering the poor. For me, one of the great feelings is the sense of friendship and familiarity arising from bathing with my neighbors whom I have met at the same time over the years. (Men and women wash and soak separately in the public sento in Japan.)
I am anxious to enjoy the Iceland experience; to know what might be similar and what different between the two countries. Although human cultures can be very different there is something common and refreshing about relaxing in hot clean water and sharing good stories from the day with ones neighbors.
I am anxious to enjoy the Iceland experience; to know what might be similar and what different between the two countries. Although human cultures can be very different there is something common and refreshing about relaxing in hot clean water and sharing good stories from the day with ones neighbors.
5
Eleven years ago my new husband and I took a Road Trip Honeymoon with the book Hot Springs and Hot Pools of the Southwest as our guide. From old, developed resorts to rock-bounded pools at the edge of the Rio Grande, we lounged and relaxed- both by tent and in cabins . . . a wonderful trip. We also found cool, swimming holes not far from the highway.
Water is the miracle- just ask Michael Valentine Smith!
(Stranger In A Strange Land)
Water is the miracle- just ask Michael Valentine Smith!
(Stranger In A Strange Land)
5
Yes, the pools may be a "secret" to Iceland's happiness, but it is more a symptom than a root cause. Iceland is a remarkable example of social intelligence and resourcefulness, of how a tiny country of 300,000 people can take a barren island and create a wonderfully habitable human community.
For those of us who have visited Iceland, what stands out is how well-built, orderly, and civilized everything is. This is because Islanders closely share common values, even though it is an open and democratic society.
Compare this with most of the other countries of the world, in particular Islamic countries, whose societies--virtually all of them--are dysfunctional and exist in various degrees of anarchic chaos. The difference is striking: many of these Islamic countries are rich in natural resources in comparison to Island, and yet many of them are one or two steps of falling into Syrian-style meltdowns.
What's going on here, why are there such successful societies as in Island, and at the same time so many dysfunctional ones? Studying the differences would be most enlightening, though I'm sure the "secret" is more than the communal pools...
For those of us who have visited Iceland, what stands out is how well-built, orderly, and civilized everything is. This is because Islanders closely share common values, even though it is an open and democratic society.
Compare this with most of the other countries of the world, in particular Islamic countries, whose societies--virtually all of them--are dysfunctional and exist in various degrees of anarchic chaos. The difference is striking: many of these Islamic countries are rich in natural resources in comparison to Island, and yet many of them are one or two steps of falling into Syrian-style meltdowns.
What's going on here, why are there such successful societies as in Island, and at the same time so many dysfunctional ones? Studying the differences would be most enlightening, though I'm sure the "secret" is more than the communal pools...
8
I wonder what their food is like? No cold meat platters I'll bet, LOL!
1
I must say, my trip to the Blue Lagoon was without doubt the most anticlimactic event of my entire travelling life (so far). I mean, it's fine if you like gently soaking in other people's body fluids ("Human soup" as one wag put it) and are Icelandic with no other options.
But to sell this as a tourist attraction? My high-school gym changing room had more character than the changing area for the Blue Lagoon. They do offer a bar, but because this is Iceland no one could be bothered to serve customers.
Iceland is a beautiful island of 323,000 people. It has fantastic geography and is well worth a visit. However, my experience as a tourist was that most of the inhabitants just couldn't give a toss about their visitors - from tours that "forgot" lunch to fine-dining restaurants with no staff, it was almost a joke. Take snacks!
But to sell this as a tourist attraction? My high-school gym changing room had more character than the changing area for the Blue Lagoon. They do offer a bar, but because this is Iceland no one could be bothered to serve customers.
Iceland is a beautiful island of 323,000 people. It has fantastic geography and is well worth a visit. However, my experience as a tourist was that most of the inhabitants just couldn't give a toss about their visitors - from tours that "forgot" lunch to fine-dining restaurants with no staff, it was almost a joke. Take snacks!
1
Navy personnel who have been stationed there have come away with many stories of unfriendliness toward them. Low pay grades were not permitted to stay in town after a certain hour and higher grades had to have proof that they had a hotel reservation in town. Dating Icelandic women was discouraged. In my years in the Navy I only met one person who was married to one.
1
When I was a student in Heidelberg, I occasionally went to the sauna. Never failed to come home with a cold.
3
No real comment, just to say I loved this series of words:
This time I didn’t approach anyone, didn’t ask any questions. I didn’t speak at all. I concentrated on what I could feel: the water pressing lightly on my skin, the wind prickling my beard. All around me was the soft white noise of a community. The conversation; the connection; the freedom, within that flurry of sociability, to withdraw and simply be within yourself.
It reminded me of a memorable quote from Beckett's Mercier and Camier, both were very touching:
Alone he watched the sky go out, dark deepen to its full. He kept his eyes on the engulfed horizon, for he knew what last throes it was capable of. And in the dark he could hear better too, he could hear the sounds the long day had kept from him, human murmurs for example, and the rain on the water. - Samuel Beckett, in Mercier and Camier
This time I didn’t approach anyone, didn’t ask any questions. I didn’t speak at all. I concentrated on what I could feel: the water pressing lightly on my skin, the wind prickling my beard. All around me was the soft white noise of a community. The conversation; the connection; the freedom, within that flurry of sociability, to withdraw and simply be within yourself.
It reminded me of a memorable quote from Beckett's Mercier and Camier, both were very touching:
Alone he watched the sky go out, dark deepen to its full. He kept his eyes on the engulfed horizon, for he knew what last throes it was capable of. And in the dark he could hear better too, he could hear the sounds the long day had kept from him, human murmurs for example, and the rain on the water. - Samuel Beckett, in Mercier and Camier
3
Gorgeous land. Small and homogeneous population. Decent standard of living. Border controls. No place for crooks to run. It ain't the water.
5
Rekjanesbaer never heard of any town with that name. Probable meant to be Reykjanesbaer. Reykja means "Smokey" as in "has hot water" Rekja... would mean "tracking" if one can trust in google translate ( actually yes one can often and about this too )
Most town/village names in Iceland have a meaning...
But there is at least one village that does not have a svimming pool...
Kópasker in the North East of the country. 114 people lived there in 2015...
Most town/village names in Iceland have a meaning...
But there is at least one village that does not have a svimming pool...
Kópasker in the North East of the country. 114 people lived there in 2015...
1
Hungary sits in the Carpathian Basin which is actually a large old volcano, so many hot pools and spas throughout the country.
Well written article Dan. Enjoyed reading it.
As one who spent 1991-94 in Reykjavik, I can well understand the thoughts and feelings of Icelanders. Tue - the pools in Iceland is where everyone comes together. Much like the village well .
One naked shower was all it took to take away my inhibitions.
As one who spent 1991-94 in Reykjavik, I can well understand the thoughts and feelings of Icelanders. Tue - the pools in Iceland is where everyone comes together. Much like the village well .
One naked shower was all it took to take away my inhibitions.
1
Wonderful article. While on a hiking trip in Iceland several other hikers and I delighted in visiting pools whenever we reached a town. It was a fantastic way to meet locals and the pools seemed to function as community gathering spots.
It was also a hoot to be relaxing in what might be perceived as an adults-only hot tub and then suddenly have a child wearing water wings jump into the ring of adults full of laughter.
It was also a hoot to be relaxing in what might be perceived as an adults-only hot tub and then suddenly have a child wearing water wings jump into the ring of adults full of laughter.
1
You don't have to go to Iceland! Heated above-ground pools (15'X7') with a swim-machine to generate a current, have long allowed Americans to enjoy the Iceland experience, also year round.
2
We have done researching in our lab at Washington State University demonstrating that warm water immersion dramatically alters the central nervous system, reducing the level of sympathetic nervous system arousal while facilitating the influence of the parasympathetic nervous system. This produces a dopamine response, and is probably the reason why warm water produces the "ahhhh" response in humans but also in most mammals (cats excluded.) Actually I don't know about cats in general, just one in particular.
But societies have known this for millennia and the healthiest, of which Iceland seems to be one, have benefited greatly. Immersion like this reduces heart rate, slows the autonomic nervous system, allows the mind to relax and freespin, and increases cerebral blood flow. These are potent effects and of tremendous potential health-positive benefits.
Bruce E. Becker, MD, MS, FACSM
Former Director, National Aquatics & Sports Medicine Institute
Washington State University
Clinical Professor
University of Washington School of Medicine
But societies have known this for millennia and the healthiest, of which Iceland seems to be one, have benefited greatly. Immersion like this reduces heart rate, slows the autonomic nervous system, allows the mind to relax and freespin, and increases cerebral blood flow. These are potent effects and of tremendous potential health-positive benefits.
Bruce E. Becker, MD, MS, FACSM
Former Director, National Aquatics & Sports Medicine Institute
Washington State University
Clinical Professor
University of Washington School of Medicine
38
have you measured the effect chlorine has on thyroid function?
Let's see. . . plans for my eventual Icelandic vacation: rent & ride a bicycle around Iceland's Southwest, and swim & loaf in every hotpool at every stop . . .preferably in December or January, or maybe July, August, or September.
Anyway! Me want to go there!
Anyway! Me want to go there!
1
On my trip to Iceland I went to the famous Blue Lagoon for a swim. An absolutely marvelous experience. When I reflect on the ease with which Icelanders deal with nudity as a normal and natural thing and then think about the state of the LGTB bathroom battles you have to wonder if or when we will get over this childish behavior.
5
there's something to be said for freezing in a cold environment, only to be submerged in oh, such nice warmth ... mere seconds later.
the peace one feels ... the content soul ... nature at it's best.
Whether Iceland or Colorado in winter ... if you can, don't miss the experience!
the peace one feels ... the content soul ... nature at it's best.
Whether Iceland or Colorado in winter ... if you can, don't miss the experience!
4
We went to Myvatn and Blue Lagoon baths when in Iceland a while back, but in June. We were the only ones in Myvatn initially until another family joined us. These were more nature-like than Blue Lagoon. Blue Lagoon is the celebrity spa of Iceland with all kinds of features. There's a bathe-up bar with wine, a trough in various places in the baths with therapeutic mud to plaster on yourself, and saunas and steambaths. One of the great features of Blue Lagoon is that it is very near the airport and if you have a layover of 4-5 hours would HIGHLY recommend it - it is truly an experience in itself.
It's a crazy myth that Icelanders are happy.
We are among the most depressed people on earth -- and the most corrupt.
We are among the most depressed people on earth -- and the most corrupt.
10
What a joke. America quit being a complete nation, years ago. Now, the powers that be, are in the process of destroying our nation, from our education system to our government.
1
Sounds like someone needs a good soak in a hot tub. Every nation has problems, even Iceland, but there are so many wonderful things that we can celebrate. I'm thrilled to be living here now and wouldn't trade places with anyone.
3
"powers that be" are global corporations. Over 60% of our national debt is owned by other countries, 40% by China alone.
1
Staring in Junior High, everyone had to have a shower before jumping the the pool at the YMCA in Brooklyn, and we swam naked too. The same was true in college.
2
Be welcome fellow Americans (and other people ofc)! Our geothermally heated swimming pools are just majestic! But I can tell you that Icelandic vikings have a hard time walking from the shower area to the nearest hot tub as well! At least when the temperature is below freezing! It's the storm before the calm, you might say. You will enjoy the warm embrace of the water even better because of it.
A trivial point to add to such a nice article, and perhaps covered already in the comments, but Icelanders don't use matronymics. They use patronymics with a suffix to distinguish whether the child is a son or a daughter - for example, Arnisson for a son, and Arnisdottir for a daughter. Both son and daughter receive the father's name with the suffix indicating son or daughter.
Oh, don't they? Thanks, expert Steve, but in fact they do. Patronymics are indeed more common, but matronymics are very much in use. Some people don't have a father that they or their mother care anything about, some people simply have better relationships with their mothers than their fathers. Others choose to use both a matronymic and patronymic.
P.S. If the father was Árni, the patronymic would be Árnason or Árnadóttir.
P.S. If the father was Árni, the patronymic would be Árnason or Árnadóttir.
1
You're right. I've never heard of the Germanic people's use matronymics. One of my Dutch ancestors came here as Cornelison Aertsen with his wife Belitje Hendrixdottir. Technically there was no last name as Peter Cornelison was Aert's Grandson. The town names were added to distinguish two people with the same names as in Cornelis Aertsen van Schaijk.
Also we do not come from Motherlands. The home country is always the Fatherland.
Also we do not come from Motherlands. The home country is always the Fatherland.
We have Barton Springs Pool here in Austin and in July or August, its cold water is as pleasant as a hot spring would be in winter. But I must say this article made me understand what Bjork must be screaming about in all her songs...
2
Outstanding article. The pleasures of communal bathing are also primary in Japan, which also dates back to natural hot springs and geothermal activity. Every neighborhood has it's own sento, and outdoor onsens are a popular vacation.
Interestingly, the neighborhood sento is being slowly replaced by fancy in-home baths. It's like people staying at home instead of going to the movies. In our town, I see fewer people at the local neighborhood sento. The country has introduced "super sento" style baths (with fancier baths, and massages, etc.), but I do worry about the long-term future of the sento.
The Japanese recognize the several benefits of the sento: warm water, the psychological benefits of quiet and time to wind down or talk with friends, and the possible benefits of special salts and minerals in the water. It's been a revelation to me. Thanks for this piece!
Interestingly, the neighborhood sento is being slowly replaced by fancy in-home baths. It's like people staying at home instead of going to the movies. In our town, I see fewer people at the local neighborhood sento. The country has introduced "super sento" style baths (with fancier baths, and massages, etc.), but I do worry about the long-term future of the sento.
The Japanese recognize the several benefits of the sento: warm water, the psychological benefits of quiet and time to wind down or talk with friends, and the possible benefits of special salts and minerals in the water. It's been a revelation to me. Thanks for this piece!
43
Sad to say, I doubt the hot thermal pools alone account for the positive vibes in Iceland as Hungary (full disclosure, many of my ancestors came from Hungary and I return every year)has an impressive thermal pool, let alone swimming culture, minus most of the positive vibes discussed here. Maybe, the frequent invasions of Hungary and the Hungarian preoccupation of being alone in Europe account for some of the differences. I say this as a friend of Hungary.
8
Let me add that, as I am sure Michael knows well, Hungary is also preoccupied with anti-Semitism. It's debatable whether or not this contributes to Hungary's national unhappiness and dissatisfaction.
3
Having lived and done business in Hungary for the last 2 decades I've gotten to know and understand Hungarians quite well. Thermal bathing traditions aside and no matter what stance one has on the refugee crisis in the EU, the Hungarians responded true to form...Hungary is for Hungarians, full stop.
5
I loved my week in Iceland, and one of the highlights was an evening in the public pool(s) in Reykyavik. There were so many options, from the huge regular pool to the smaller pools of various warmths, and including a waterslide I went down over and over, often colliding with smaller teens who left too soon after I did. There was an outdoor gym on which I did pull-ups and climbed on ropes as well. I tried to go in as many pools as I could in the other towns and at hotels - a great time! I don't think I would like to do the same things with Americans, though. They aren't as relaxed and fun.
25
I don't know why I feel comforted even by the thought of isolating ourselves (my fiancee and myself) in a distant corner of this world. Iceland seems just about right!
9
I'm guessing, although I would have thought otherwise, that Icelanders don't use
suanas or steam baths. Too bad. The way to enter a pool on a cold or freezing day is to warm up first. Then the walk isn't so bad. After skiing, I try to spend some time in outdoor hot tubs, but I always hit the suana first. Much, much easier.
suanas or steam baths. Too bad. The way to enter a pool on a cold or freezing day is to warm up first. Then the walk isn't so bad. After skiing, I try to spend some time in outdoor hot tubs, but I always hit the suana first. Much, much easier.
9
ah, but you miss the bliss!
first you freeze, then warmth envelopes you. Nothing like it!
first you freeze, then warmth envelopes you. Nothing like it!
The lifeguard was bundled up in arctic gear, from head to toe...and serving BEER to the happy swimmers. We thought that was hilarious.
11
As a former New Yorker now living in California, one of the many things I've come to love about my adopted state is the hot tub culture. Communal relaxation, calm disinterest regarding nudity, nothing to buy or display - it's basic human contentment. I love introducing it to harried Northeasterners. Unfortunately, some are too weirded out and socially anxious, which is a shame, as it's goes a long way as a cure for the small disconnects of modern civilization.
13
that country invests in its communities, here in the states thats called "a Bar" and "Weight Gain"
2
"Men’s and women’s locker rooms feature posters highlighting all the regions you must lather assiduously: head, armpits, undercarriage, feet."
Fans of George Carlin will recall, from the "Fear of Germs" essay in "Napalm & Silly Putty", the "four key areas" upon which those who do not "come in intimate contact with huge amounts of filth and garbage every day" should in the absence of a daily shower (aka "overkill!") should, respectively, focus: armpits, the "undercarriage" split into its more vividly Carlinesque back and front alleys, and "teeth" rather than "head" (sorry, hot-tubbing Iceland - "feet" did not make the cut). Carlin added that "in fact, you can save yourself a whole lot of time if you simply use the same brush on all four areas!"
Fans of George Carlin will recall, from the "Fear of Germs" essay in "Napalm & Silly Putty", the "four key areas" upon which those who do not "come in intimate contact with huge amounts of filth and garbage every day" should in the absence of a daily shower (aka "overkill!") should, respectively, focus: armpits, the "undercarriage" split into its more vividly Carlinesque back and front alleys, and "teeth" rather than "head" (sorry, hot-tubbing Iceland - "feet" did not make the cut). Carlin added that "in fact, you can save yourself a whole lot of time if you simply use the same brush on all four areas!"
4
I too have swum in iceland's community pools. And I too found myself feeling exactly blissful after the experience. Seeing the great diversity of people lounging in the pools did it. There are old friends, families, couples, teenagers and young kids. Everyone is there and everyone is welcomed.
13
So (and I heartily agree), to sum up: soaking ain't no joking
7
This article is a great read. It felt more like a short story from a revered collection.
11
Thanks so much, Dan! Love the writing.
Don't you have to love a country that indulges in fabulous hot dogs (cooked in beer, topped with fried onions) and swimming naked?
Don't you have to love a country that indulges in fabulous hot dogs (cooked in beer, topped with fried onions) and swimming naked?
16
Please don't swim naked in Iceland! You will get kicked out of the pool! Nakedness is confined to the changing rooms ;)
Yes. Go. Swim. Wherever. My last Icelandic swim was in February, outdoors, under the moon. Glorious.
15
icealnd handled th banking crisis effectively
Icelanders are fast on their way back to becoming among the richest people in the world, just five years after experiencing one of the most dramatic financial meltdowns in history.
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/oct/06/iceland-financial-recovery-...
Icelanders are fast on their way back to becoming among the richest people in the world, just five years after experiencing one of the most dramatic financial meltdowns in history.
http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/oct/06/iceland-financial-recovery-...
7
Thank you so much for your article. As a regular visitor to Iceland for many years, I came to love swimming outdoors there year round. Its been too long since my last visit, but I have many fond memories of outdoor swims as a great way to deal with the darkness of winter and feel connected to the culture. I still miss the feeling of snow and wind above the water and still take a very hot shower before heading to the lap pool for my daily swim! I look forward to the day when we see Icelandic style pool/parks here in the US.
5
Less communal contentment can also be found on the sandur in front of Skaftafel and on the glaciers of Vatnajökull in the early spring before the tourists and the flowers begin to bloom.
3
we have this at my favorite ski place (steam room, sauna, warm outdoor saline pool, outdoor hot tub). the peacefulness and option for commonality can be the same.
what seems different: the americans who bring razors and want to shave themselves in public (ew). the americans who bring liquor and leave bottles and cups all over the place for someone else to pick up, and ruining the experience. the americans who borrow hotel-provided robes, towels, and sandals to walk across the cold deck and then leave them strewn all over the place for someone else to pick up.
and of course we have the naked beaches in tahoe, where we also have the americans who think they are places to hook up.
what seems different: the americans who bring razors and want to shave themselves in public (ew). the americans who bring liquor and leave bottles and cups all over the place for someone else to pick up, and ruining the experience. the americans who borrow hotel-provided robes, towels, and sandals to walk across the cold deck and then leave them strewn all over the place for someone else to pick up.
and of course we have the naked beaches in tahoe, where we also have the americans who think they are places to hook up.
6
A great lifestyle. Nothing is more relaxing than soaking in water. After all, our bodies are like 90% water, and we were suspended in liquid for nine months during gestation. So related, even more beneficial for our bodies is floating in water. When floating there is zero impact on our bodies, total weightlessness, it's like being able to fly almost. Float pods are used by the NFL and other athletes.
8
We were in Reykjavik for three days and enjoyed all the pools and hot tubs each day. Additionally the Icelandic Film Festival was going on in Reykjavik and imagine our surprise when one of the offerings was being shown in a swimming pool! Clearly that was to be our evening activity. The pool was indoors, very large and filled with many, many people standing in the water and sitting on the edge, watching the large screen that unfurled from the rafters. The movie was forgettable but to this day that "swim-in" movie remains one of the strangest travel adventures I have ever had!
8
Yay ! That swimming pool is Sundhöllin - the oldest pool in Reykjavik. And yes, the movies are often forgettable movies, except for one time...they showed "Jaws" :D Never did that again !
1
I swim laps. It's one of the best ways to relax. I concentrate on the number lap I'm on by repeating it to the rhythm of my strokes. Someday, if I ever make enough money and have the time, I'd love to go to Iceland and share a pool with a few dozen other people. I find that the stretch and push of swimming does more for my whole body and my mind than any other exercise I've ever done.
16
forget counting laps and you will relax even more
8
Been there 5 times in 3 years and I never miss a swim whatever the season!
We have a trip to Iceland planned this summer and we can't wait to experience the heated pools.
That said, it is easy to weave a story that connects item a (pools) to item b (happiness). Yet, correlation does not imply causation.
The reasons for Icelandic happiness are likely much more complex.
That said, it is easy to weave a story that connects item a (pools) to item b (happiness). Yet, correlation does not imply causation.
The reasons for Icelandic happiness are likely much more complex.
19
I'm sure there are many reasons, but there is hard science demonstrating the effect of warm water immersion on the brain, producing a measurable and very highly significant relaxation response. So enjoy the pools during your trip, and realize that your body is doing exactly what it learned during your first 9 months of life--grow, learn, enjoy. Life only gets worse later.
2
I read with interest this story on pools and wonder if the citizens of Iceland are comfortable with only whites being in the pool. I am from India and wonder if they would ask me to not enter the pool. This is not a weird question because I know people have such feelings for black folks.
5
Hi HS,
You would be welcome to the pool, only way you were not admitted is if you are underage (must be 10) and without supervision (must be 15 years or older to supervise) or if you are under the influence of drink or drugs. Also as stated in the article you are expected to wash before entering the pool, we take that really seriously as it makes it possible to have the minimum amount of chlorine and other chemicals thus making the experience more enjoyable.
That there are no people of color in the pictures accompanying this article is a coincidence, nothing more :)
You would be welcome to the pool, only way you were not admitted is if you are underage (must be 10) and without supervision (must be 15 years or older to supervise) or if you are under the influence of drink or drugs. Also as stated in the article you are expected to wash before entering the pool, we take that really seriously as it makes it possible to have the minimum amount of chlorine and other chemicals thus making the experience more enjoyable.
That there are no people of color in the pictures accompanying this article is a coincidence, nothing more :)
I promise you, nobody would care about the color of your skin :)
9
Also, there are a lot of non white Icelanders!
4
When I lived in Reykjavik, the pools must have been the cheapest form of entertainment. I hope it remains that way.
It is intuitive that pools make Icelanders happy. They sure make my kids happy, so they same (should) apply to adults.
It is intuitive that pools make Icelanders happy. They sure make my kids happy, so they same (should) apply to adults.
7
I am originally from Brazil and read on many magazines that Brazilians are happier than they should be, given the level of poverty, crime and corruption.
Let's put it this way, people of Iceland are happy in a thermal pool because, it's better than being unhappy or not in the pool, given the circumstances. People of Brazil are happy despite of crime, poverty and corruption, because they can focus their life on music, soccer and beaches.
Bottom line is that happiness of a people depends on their culture and values.
Let's put it this way, people of Iceland are happy in a thermal pool because, it's better than being unhappy or not in the pool, given the circumstances. People of Brazil are happy despite of crime, poverty and corruption, because they can focus their life on music, soccer and beaches.
Bottom line is that happiness of a people depends on their culture and values.
16
And what they choose to be.
I can't imagine these public bathes continuing in the same way in rest of the Nordic countries with the influx of mostly male Muslim migrants who don't believe in women's equality or European values of respect.
42
Everyone is capable of evolving and learning to adapt to new environments. It's certainly easier for some than it is for others. Any outsider will find it difficult to become an actual part of Icelandic society; we all need to strive towards being open-minded, tolerant, and aware of our differences and our similarities, even Scandinavians. To begin with, they're not ALL believers of women's equality, neither are ALL Europeans. Everyone needs to put forth an extra effort in a world filled with displaced people, many of whom are without a place to go by no fault of their own.
Hey Sasha, I went to the biggest pool in Reykjavík with my male immigrant friend from Jordan on Saturday. It was great!
2
I remember my final day in Iceland this summer. I went to a great cafe by the harbor of Reykjavik, and met a man who looked about 20. It happened to be his birthday. How old are you, I asked. 42 today! What's your secret? The pools, he said. Every single day!
10
Uh, Dan? Here's a weather tip: three speedos won't keep you appreciably warmer than just one.
4
He stated that he was wearing a speedo, and had packed three.
9
I became fascinated by Iceland through reports of the Reagan-Gorbachev Summit on television. Their prime minister was lap swimming. They swam during during the colder months with the geothermal heat. But when heads came out of the water, ice crystals would immediately form in their hair. They referred to these as "witches' candles."
A beautiful Icelandic blonde remarked, "I think I got the Viking blood in me."
I said, "Man, sign me up for that outdoor natatorium."
A beautiful Icelandic blonde remarked, "I think I got the Viking blood in me."
I said, "Man, sign me up for that outdoor natatorium."
7
I'm sure it will be easy to apply the Icelandic model everywhere around the world. What are waiting for? Oh ya . . . a completely homogeneous, monoethnic society that all speak the same language and practices the same religion and tons of hot mineral water. What's simpler to find than that?
14
Sure, Iver, except Iceland's population is 10% immigrant, about standard for a European country. I don't know where you people get this 'Iceland is homogeneous and that's the reason for anything positive I hear about it' stuff. Oh, actually I do know, it's your fevered imagination that's never been to Iceland. No, we're not all the same colour, culture or religion here. There are even, gasp, BROWN people, and some of them are MUSLIMS. OMG.
1
This is one of those pieces of reportage that reveals much more about the writer and audience than what is actually being covered. There are so many tropes on display: the "cruel" climate (average winter temperatures barely get below freezing), the incredulity of walking, maybe, 10 yards in the outside elements from a warm shower into a warm bath and, pseudo-horror of pseudo-horrors, naked people! Icelanders seem pretty normal to me: They accept the climate they live in, dress appropriately and aren't so prudish that they can't enjoy a harmless pleasure while exercising good hygiene.
I can only imagine what the author's horror would be upon participating in Finnish sauna culture where people sit together in a little hot room completely naked. Plus, there's sweating! And if you really want to impress the out-of-towners, there is rolling around in the snow or swimming in a frozen lake afterwards. All the while fighting off ravenous bears and wolves with a "puukko" (traditional Finnish knife), etc, etc.
I can only imagine what the author's horror would be upon participating in Finnish sauna culture where people sit together in a little hot room completely naked. Plus, there's sweating! And if you really want to impress the out-of-towners, there is rolling around in the snow or swimming in a frozen lake afterwards. All the while fighting off ravenous bears and wolves with a "puukko" (traditional Finnish knife), etc, etc.
28
This comment involves a long standing discourse suggestive of yo mommas stories. Cold, you should have been in my valley/mountain top, etc. discussed every Wed. poker game during the cold half of the year. Still, it seems Icelanders have the geology and community to make a silk purse out of a long Winter.
6
hey you should put a group tour together.
4
Aw, lighten up. It was a nice read, funny but respectful, colorful and spot on from my own personal experience.
1
I like the fact that everyone seems to just sit in the pools and chat or stare into space.
14
The pools seem to be to Icelanders what sauna is to us Finns. If you live in the north, you just have to have a warm place where you can relax.
14
Great story, and so well-written...thank you, Mr. Kois. Great insights into the culture with a light-hearted tone. You obviously have also mastered the art of interviewing, making the subjects comfortable so they will be more open (pardon the slight reference to "open" amid the nakedness!).
14
I repeat everything said by Aaron Taylor. Fun to read. I use a cold plunge and then hot tub at a local spa and get great results and deep relaxation. So I get why these people are so happy with that way of life.
1
Well, the secret probably can't be found in the Panama Papers.
Only in Iceland (or perhaps Berkeley) could you find a university folklorist who studies pools.
Only in Iceland (or perhaps Berkeley) could you find a university folklorist who studies pools.
6
Am surprised at the number of comments suggesting that Icelanders(and other Scandinavians) are so contented because their population is homogeneous. There are plenty of immigrants in Iceland, and even more so in Sweden, Denmark and Norway.
While all is not perfect, they have things we do not. A strong social safety net with universal health care, free education, pensions, etc. that levels society (at least compared to the US) is a big part of that. Also, a value system that places the good of the community over the good of the individual. Everybody into the pool!
While all is not perfect, they have things we do not. A strong social safety net with universal health care, free education, pensions, etc. that levels society (at least compared to the US) is a big part of that. Also, a value system that places the good of the community over the good of the individual. Everybody into the pool!
154
It's not the homogeneity per se, but the existence of common language, common history, common ideology, common cultural values, and the various and sundry "societal support networks" all acting on concert. With a common culture, behavior is more predictable, there are fewer surprises, misinterpretations, and breaches of social boundaries so that there is less overall social stress and people do not worry so much about the "otherness of strangers" - and yes I am aware of the immigrants but many of them are relatively recent. Also remember that Iceland has a very small population and even other Scandinavian nations have relatively small populations.
35
A strong social safety net with universal health care, free education, pensions, etc. that levels societ
is bernie sanders president of iceland
is bernie sanders president of iceland
7
Let us know how Germans feel about their now 'segregated by sex' pools.
6
As the article states, swimming in Iceland is a surreal experience. I had travelled to Iceland in November a few years ago and brought by swimming trunks so that I could participate in this pillar of their culture. I swam or waded in a variety of settings.
One evening I was in the local swimming pool on the island of Grimsey (one of the best kept secrets in the world...). The island has 67 people and their own heated swimming pool. I hung out with several of the locals in this remote corner of the world.
Another day, I was in Myvatn (near Akureyri). The cobble stones surrounding the baths and the northern countryside was as wondrous as the swim was rejuvenating.
And like very many visitors to Iceland, I spent several hours in the Blue Lagoon just before my flight back home. It might be full of tourists, but everyone seemed to be having a good time.
I'd like to return to the country just to swim there again.
One evening I was in the local swimming pool on the island of Grimsey (one of the best kept secrets in the world...). The island has 67 people and their own heated swimming pool. I hung out with several of the locals in this remote corner of the world.
Another day, I was in Myvatn (near Akureyri). The cobble stones surrounding the baths and the northern countryside was as wondrous as the swim was rejuvenating.
And like very many visitors to Iceland, I spent several hours in the Blue Lagoon just before my flight back home. It might be full of tourists, but everyone seemed to be having a good time.
I'd like to return to the country just to swim there again.
35
Swimming and soaking in the pools during the white nights of summer is also exhilarating Fifteen years ago on a kayaking trip in the northwestern fjords, we would spend the day on the water and then soak and swim late into the night. It was very easy to lose track of the time as the sun would not fully set during the middle of June! Wonderul!
47
This article reminds of the public bath experience in Japan, the "onsen". Everyone has to scrub and wash well before going in-- for women, this also means pinning hair up, as most women do not wear a bathing cap when bathing in Japan. During my first visit to the onsen, I was not carrying anything to pin up my hair and I was going to step into the pool with my hair down. Then, a naked elderly woman, maybe she was in her 80's, came over and pulling pins from her own hair, took my bunch of long hair and pinned it up. It was an act of camaraderie among two women of different cultures and age, sharing for the first time in that act of bathing together. I always smile when I remember that experience. So maybe it is time for me to visit Iceland's public thermal pools.
80
In the '60s, just north of Big Sur, California, I — what else would a would-be hippie do? — walked nude down the beach with a nude friend and his nude wife. After only a few minutes along our two hour stroll it felt like what this article so aptly reveals: just "being". It was one of my all-time best experiences, very liberating, and, as it turned out, kind of a turning point from childhood to adulthood. And now I read that the people of Iceland do this ALL THE TIME?!
Oh, that all our politicians would only sit in a bath together and get real!
Oh, that all our politicians would only sit in a bath together and get real!
7
Icelandic pools sound not unlike Japanese onsen, where you are expected to clean yourself *before* stepping into the water. The waters are for relaxing, not bathing!
13
As should people treat our public swimming pools--I would venture a guess at maybe 10% of people know to do this or take the time.
I prefer to swim in water, not your body's effluents!
I prefer to swim in water, not your body's effluents!
1
Another reason for Icelandic happiness: When one of their government leaders is found to be corrupt, they waste no time whatsoever sending him packing.
147
I have a planned trip to Denmark and Iceland in August. I can't wait to experience the blissful existence the local people have in this part of the world. Thank you for sharing this dreamlike story, a welcome retrieve from the insanity of our elections.
10
There is something to be said for the pleasure of being immersed in hot mineral water while it is snowing AND THEN having to get out in the below freezing weather to change into clothing.......I discovered this in Calistoga, CA one winter.....will now have to try Iceland.....
5
It's hard to know what America can learn from a country whose population is almost completely homogeneous, and would fit comfortably in a 10 square block area of Manhattan. Unless you note that their top people seem to be as venal as top people anywhere else. And that they have exploited certain characteristics of international banking for their enrichment as a people.
11
That's right--we're Amuricans. What could we possibly learn from those inferior "other countries".
45
This is such a nice article about a tradition they follow. Can't it just be enjoyable? Does everyone have to be attacked for everything they do, particularly when they are harming exactly no one?
53
Ah, yes. Thank you for your generous and warm-hearted insight.
21
I wonder if the mineral rich waters aid in preventing/easing arthritis in the older population?
15
Thanks for bringing back very pleasant memories. I was stationed at Keflavik from 1992-1994, and the communal pools were one of my fondest memories. I got a chuckle out of the comments referring to Iceland's homogeneity and everyone "looking alike". As an African-American I was always amused by some of the incredulous looks I got as I showered and put on my swimsuit. The little kids were the funniest, but with all that being said. the Icelanders were totally welcoming. One of the kids taught me how to get greater speed going down the water slide. So much fun!
206
Thanks for sharing Chris!
6
chris
th kids just couldnt believe what you were packing !
th kids just couldnt believe what you were packing !
Iceland's pools are heavenly. The hot, hot water comes right out of the ground.
9
Wonderful article. It reminds me of a time I was in a hot tub at night and it started to rain, the contrast between the body immersed in hot water and a cold wind and rain on my face-lovely!
7
I don't see anybody actually swimming. Does one really need training to loll about in hot water?
7
I've been to four pools in different towns in Iceland, and they all had 25 m swimming lanes in addition to hot tubs with varying degrees of heat.
5
The swimming pools of Iceland provide regular socialization, or a communal "campfire" or sorts. Humans require social contact, but isolation is rampant in the U.S. and is exacerbated our addiction to screens.
67
Absolutely right. In India it is not like that! Better quarrelsome than lonesome. That is our motto!!
1
The real secret to Iceland's happiness is that despite being better known among westerners than more than half the nations on earth, its population is less than half that of the current, shrunken city of Detroit. Everybody in the pool.
11
Yep. Translation: critical mass of population has much to do with lack of contentedness. One more thing: the USA is founded on Natural Rights and property rights. I wonder how this plays, or not, into the Icelandic character, which is more egalutarian and seemingly less competitive than ours.
2
I hate jacuzzis but at the end of our trip last summer we went to the Blue Lagoon. Fabulous. I would go to Iceland again just for that! Highly recommended.
8
I visited three public pools on a three day trip to Iceland. And yes, I was one of those Americans scolded by the pool attendant for not soaping up my "circles" enough (there's an illustration on the wall by the shower with circles around the parts of the body you're supposed to clean). It was a surreal experience, so outside my own cultural norm (can you imagine having a paid attendant at your local Y, whose job it is to watch people shower?). But the pools themselves were serenity defined.
93
As a serious swimmer and lover of water, this sounds like heaven to me. I love the egalitarian nature of the sundlaugs, and the fact that all Icelanders know how to swim and take pleasure in the many joys of the water. I wish we had that kind of culture here in NYC-never happen, of course, because people would be too busy preening and see-and-being-seen, etc. One can dream. The accompanying photos are heavenly, too. One of the joys of swimming is the solitude, the "being", deep in the quiet of the water. I have several friends who have gone to Iceland recently-it's a very popular destination, of course. And they've all gone to the touristic "blue lagoon" and enjoyed it...I hope to sample some of the aquatic delights in Iceland one day, as well. Great article!
16
One of the requirements for graduation in Icelandic schools is proficiency in swimming. Another is written and oral competency in two languages, since Icelandic is only spoken in Iceland.
15
Danish (Iceland was a Danish colony for a long time) and English are also mandatory.
"Can the secret to the country’s happiness be found in its communal pools?"
No. Just as in articles about the (fast-fading) happiness in Scandinavian countries, the secret to the country’s happiness is found in the homogeneity of Iceland's population. Everyone in the pools agrees to the rules, which have been established over centuries to benefit the majority of the people and no one would even consider breaking them.
Contrast that to the US, where the pools would be filled with people insisting that their individual rights trump the common good: parents with screeching toddlers they completely ignore, teenagers shoving each other and everyone else while blasting loud music, grown men and women bringing their 'comfort animals' into the water, and a motley assortment of religious nuts who not only refuse to bath with each other, but demand that no one else does either, and on and on...
No. Just as in articles about the (fast-fading) happiness in Scandinavian countries, the secret to the country’s happiness is found in the homogeneity of Iceland's population. Everyone in the pools agrees to the rules, which have been established over centuries to benefit the majority of the people and no one would even consider breaking them.
Contrast that to the US, where the pools would be filled with people insisting that their individual rights trump the common good: parents with screeching toddlers they completely ignore, teenagers shoving each other and everyone else while blasting loud music, grown men and women bringing their 'comfort animals' into the water, and a motley assortment of religious nuts who not only refuse to bath with each other, but demand that no one else does either, and on and on...
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I suspect that's why the Scandinavian countries all score highest on the happiest countries index each year . A small, homogenous population with shared communal values - they are communitarian, they think of what's best for the community, rather than the libertarian, "My rights come first, to hell with everyone else" as practiced in the US.
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@ Fred Norman
Not any more.
Welcome to the party, Europe!
Not any more.
Welcome to the party, Europe!
2
If this were true, why are there signs in Polish?
1
Dan, excellent writing. Kept me going to the end...
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I had read about the community pools and really wanted to visit one when I was in Iceland for a birding trip in midsummer. Unfortunately, I couldn't fit it in. Thanks for the great story.
5
Icelandics are happy because they have the cradle to grave social support system besides which even Bernie Sanders' proposals pale.
They have national healthcare, free higher education (and if they don't have what you want their they will pay for your education in other education), childcare, and essentially 100% national literacy.
And, by the way, the country always have had those pools but the Icelandics were a lot less happy when they were live in severe poverty prior to World War II. It was the U.S. military moving in to keep it from Nazi Germany after it overran Denmark that first began to raise the SES status. This continued after the war with an important NATO presence.
It's funny that all that NATO money, most of which came from the U.S., gave Icelanders a bunch of wonderful things that many Americans don't yet have.
They have national healthcare, free higher education (and if they don't have what you want their they will pay for your education in other education), childcare, and essentially 100% national literacy.
And, by the way, the country always have had those pools but the Icelandics were a lot less happy when they were live in severe poverty prior to World War II. It was the U.S. military moving in to keep it from Nazi Germany after it overran Denmark that first began to raise the SES status. This continued after the war with an important NATO presence.
It's funny that all that NATO money, most of which came from the U.S., gave Icelanders a bunch of wonderful things that many Americans don't yet have.
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hehe - that fact about U.S. money (the Marshall aid in particular) reeeeaaaallly annoys the left-leaning parties in Iceland, such as the anti-military group - "Ísland úr NATO, Herinn burt!" And things haven't really changed ;)
The only time the police used tear gas in Iceland was when Alþingi voted to join for Iceland to join NATO in 1954 (aprox.)
The only time the police used tear gas in Iceland was when Alþingi voted to join for Iceland to join NATO in 1954 (aprox.)
4
Just one correction in my posting. I meant that if their institutions of higher education don't have what you need to study, the country will pay for you to study in other countries.
You wonder how much of a homogeneous population has to do with social harmony. Diversity and pluralism have enriching advantages but perhaps the Harmony of Iceland isn't one if them?
1
Americans are such puritans and so afraid of nakedness. No wonder the Icelandic folks are happier. No hang ups. This is likely why we have so much rape...
9
Icelanders are perhaps more prudish than we are. The pools I've visited are not for nudists. Bathing costumes mandatory.
That's the cause of RAPE?!?! Not the case, not even close, imho.
That's the cause of RAPE?!?! Not the case, not even close, imho.
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Loved this article - captured the Icelandic sense of "kósí" (a feeling of contentment and sense of well-being, rather than the English "cozy" meaning).
Icelanders each have their favorite swimming pools and each has its distinct character. The indoor sea-water swimming pool in the Westman Islands, or the swimming pool in the middle of a desert scene built with leftover material from the local power plant construction. The old Sundhöllin ("Swim Palace") where I learned to swim in school - it is also has a huge diving board.
Icelanders each have their favorite swimming pools and each has its distinct character. The indoor sea-water swimming pool in the Westman Islands, or the swimming pool in the middle of a desert scene built with leftover material from the local power plant construction. The old Sundhöllin ("Swim Palace") where I learned to swim in school - it is also has a huge diving board.
33
I wonder if the communal pools work in Iceland due to the homogeneity of the population? In British Columbia there is much angst due to the Asians spitting into the water at the public pools. Also, essays are coming out of Germany about the Middle Eastern immigrant men randomly grabbing the butts of women when they attend public pools. Germany has resorted to putting up signage in an attempt to deter the problem. I would never venture into a pool or hot tub anywhere but a private home.
36
those guys got it made
small highly literate and educated populace, gorgeous stark scenery, volcanoes, geysers, geothermal provides all their heat, maybe some electric, handsome healthy looking people
th only thing i hold against them is their refusal to stop th whale hunt
and its a big thing
so i would never go there even for a visit
small highly literate and educated populace, gorgeous stark scenery, volcanoes, geysers, geothermal provides all their heat, maybe some electric, handsome healthy looking people
th only thing i hold against them is their refusal to stop th whale hunt
and its a big thing
so i would never go there even for a visit
8
Perhaps all the politicians in Congress should be forced to spend some time naked at the local swimming pool with their constituents so that they can hear (from people other than the rich lobbyists with whom they usually hang out) what life is really like for the 99% - and, just maybe, better understand the consequences of their actions and inaction.
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Beautiful evocative article and the photography is gorgeous. Was pleasantly surprised to see the photos were by Massimo Vitali whose work I've seen and admired. Hoping to visit Iceland this year and at least a few of the thermal baths.
4
The Icelandic Sagas do not mention pools. Seem like Roman Baths.
8
I was in Iceland with the U.S. Navy back in the Summer of 1972. At that time our interactions with the local community were very restricted with curfews and such, but I was able to enjoy the pools in Reykjavik. This is just one of many wonderful things that I found there. I would love to return some day, and for those who are considering a visit, I highly reccommend it. We could learn a lot from the people there and the way that they regard their fellow countrymen.
14
Sounds magnificent. Just amazing.
1
And this is just one of many amazing, weird things in Iceland.....a volcano under a glacier is another mind bender.
Sorry to be deflating, but isn't it obvious that Iceland is happy because -- even in the face of financial collapse -- the country stubbornly retained its social safety net?
Editor’s note: This comment has been anonymized in accordance with applicable law(s).
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Maybe Icelanders are happy because alone out of all the world, they put their criminal banksters in prison!
BTW, "Inside Job" is STILL the best film made about the 2008 financial crisis. It opens with the banking disaster that befell Iceland.
BTW, "Inside Job" is STILL the best film made about the 2008 financial crisis. It opens with the banking disaster that befell Iceland.
8
I studied the pictures: There wasn't one iphone, tablet or wifi-laptop to be seen.
It is the most literate society in the world and a recent study found that there are zero percent who believe in formal religion.
What do you do when you are literate and atheist?
You enjoy the company of others.
What a sane, lovely country.
What a fine people.
It is the most literate society in the world and a recent study found that there are zero percent who believe in formal religion.
What do you do when you are literate and atheist?
You enjoy the company of others.
What a sane, lovely country.
What a fine people.
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According to the Factbook app, only 12% of the population are atheist or don't belong to an organized religion.
Remember toothe thousands of non Icelanders, mostly British, who let their life savings in the Icelandic back scandals a few years back.
Remember toothe thousands of non Icelanders, mostly British, who let their life savings in the Icelandic back scandals a few years back.
4
Fred: The Church of Iceland is a state religion and Icelanders are automatically enrolled. And, according to Wiki only 11% attend, most once a year. Okay... not EVERYONE is formally atheist, but Iceland's numbers are a breath of fresh air. And there was a news report within the last two weeks that stated that the belief in "God" as a supernatural being was zero.
We should be so lucky!
We should be so lucky!
10
"There was a news report."
Well, THAT'S definitive. But really I could do with a little of this, ahem, faith-based commenting.
Well, THAT'S definitive. But really I could do with a little of this, ahem, faith-based commenting.
Wonderful travel story! And the photos add to the sense of cold, warmth and community.
2
It's very much akin to the tradition of Finnish sauna--a social gathering point designed to encourage interaction and break down inhibitions. Great read!
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Having visited Iceland on numerous occasions, I can attest to the wonderful facilities that exist all over the island for geothermal bathing. It is not just the "Blue Lagoon" , so do not not be fooled by all the hype surrounding it, yes the Blue Lagoon is an amazing place, but it is not the ONLY place. There are many fine places to to go in Reykjavik and beyond. The Blue Lagoon has spent a lot of money to market itself as THE place to go, and it is very nice. But if you are on a budget, or you want to hang out with more Islanders, try finding a local place in town. You won't regret it.
4
True. You will not find many Icelanders in the Blue Lagoon - it has become to expensive for us to enjoy. Also, when you think about it...it is run-off from a local power plant...yummy.
1
Yes! This was one of our favorite things when we visited Iceland in February some years ago. Makes me want to go back (Cheap flights direct from Orlando to Reykjavik during winter). Nothing like swimming laps outside during a blizzard.
7
It's snowing in Denver again today. After reading this article, I feel lucky to be able to walk to my outdoor hot tub for a soak, it's a few steps out a back door.
Oh, and you can feel warmer if you wear a hat. It keeps the snow off your head, too!
Oh, and you can feel warmer if you wear a hat. It keeps the snow off your head, too!
9
I wholeheartedly recommend visiting these local pools when in Iceland. It gives a window into the culture and spirit of the people. I have no doubt these pools contribute to the sense of well-being and community of Icelanders. And my American boys really enjoyed the water slides at a few of them, which - as the author correctly points out - you would never find at a local pool in the U.S.!
3
It's a lot easier to be "communal" when everyone else looks exactly like you do.
7
That may be true, only if you are a xenophobic paranoiac unwilling to embrace the beauty and diversity of life on this shared planet. Truly, the mindset of the Icelandic culture is light years beyond the majority of the "new world" (cough.)
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Great article!
Happy to say we had the "pool" experience. On our first trip to Iceland, we were about to go the Blue Lagoon but I was stressed over the cost. Our B&B hostess said why not go the the Pool? After she explained how it worked and gave us directions, off we went. This Pool, in Hafnarfjordur, was full-on, with three hot tubs (one of which was nearly scalding), outdoor swimming pool, indoor swimming pool, and a well equipped gym.
On a subsequent trip, we went to the more modest Pool in Vik, on the south coast. Just one hot tub and a pool, but there is a gym as well. There we had a nice long chat with a local schoolteacher, while soaking. She related that the citizens of Vik all pitched in to have a well put down to tap the hot water (not small feat).
So, yes, all true, right down to the wash-ALL-parts-of-your-body protocol!
What a wonderful way to knit a community together!
~TR
Happy to say we had the "pool" experience. On our first trip to Iceland, we were about to go the Blue Lagoon but I was stressed over the cost. Our B&B hostess said why not go the the Pool? After she explained how it worked and gave us directions, off we went. This Pool, in Hafnarfjordur, was full-on, with three hot tubs (one of which was nearly scalding), outdoor swimming pool, indoor swimming pool, and a well equipped gym.
On a subsequent trip, we went to the more modest Pool in Vik, on the south coast. Just one hot tub and a pool, but there is a gym as well. There we had a nice long chat with a local schoolteacher, while soaking. She related that the citizens of Vik all pitched in to have a well put down to tap the hot water (not small feat).
So, yes, all true, right down to the wash-ALL-parts-of-your-body protocol!
What a wonderful way to knit a community together!
~TR
21
What a terrific and fascinating story! Just this morning, I was chatting with a friend who had returned from Iceland, a destination perpetually on my bucket list but probably out of reach given numerous physical issues I face.
The photographs are likewise fantastic, offering a clear juxtaposition of ice and water, cold and warmth. Long intrigued by Iceland (closest I've gotten is a 2013 stop in Reykjavik airport en route to Europe on Iceland Air. I loved how well the author described the distant, reserved nature if Icelanders when covered up contrasted with the serenity and comraderie (if wanted) in geothermal or simply heated pools.
Bravo Dan Kois for making your experience so interesting and Massimo Vitali for the arresting photos.
The photographs are likewise fantastic, offering a clear juxtaposition of ice and water, cold and warmth. Long intrigued by Iceland (closest I've gotten is a 2013 stop in Reykjavik airport en route to Europe on Iceland Air. I loved how well the author described the distant, reserved nature if Icelanders when covered up contrasted with the serenity and comraderie (if wanted) in geothermal or simply heated pools.
Bravo Dan Kois for making your experience so interesting and Massimo Vitali for the arresting photos.
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Great article. Makes me want to go back for a longer visit than last time.
6
In all this, no description of what it's like to get OUT of the pool. Wouldn't that be the hard part?
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No issue, your body is so warm, when you leave the water in the middle of the winter you breathe in the cool air and watch the steam rise from your body.
5
It's not too bad - you are all warmed up by the hot water.
2
Probably not. Once you're really thoroughly warmed up, you can tolerate even intense cold, at least for a few minutes. I once took part in the northern sauna ritual, and after sitting in 200 ºF heat for 45 minutes, my hosts went outside and rolled around, still naked, in the fresh snow. I followed their example and found to my surprise that it was actually very pleasant. While I have never been to Iceland, I imagine that the after-pool moment feels similar.
11
Great article... love Iceland... love communal pool concept.
Canada has done a great job of emulating similar concepts in communities of the north. We, the US, could really learn a few things from our neighbors, and build assets that support communities, and being healthy humans.
Canada has done a great job of emulating similar concepts in communities of the north. We, the US, could really learn a few things from our neighbors, and build assets that support communities, and being healthy humans.
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The US DID used to have amazing public pools! A hundred years ago, in every town and city in the country, and bigger and more luxurious than you would ever believe. Many were more like giant lakes than pools, and came complete with sandy beaches and food kiosks, offering everyone, free or at low cost, an easy way to relax, unwind, and meet strangers in a friendly and undefended way. People of diverse backgrounds and socio-economic classes mixed in ease and comradery. Newly arrived immigrants found common humanity with longtime citizens.
Sadly, they were all shut down in the 1950s and 60s by the hysterical right. While some like to say it was the fear of polio, the real factor was Desegregation, and that White leaders decided to shut the pools rather than see youth of different races fraternizing. White thugs often drove black families away with violence. Meanwhile, the backyard swimming pool came into vogue, trending the vogue of atomized and isolated lifestyles, and sadly, the nation never looked back. Most Americans are never aware that this legacy of communality existed.
It would be nice if the Times acknowledged this legacy and how it was lost to hysteria and racism. The book Contested Waters, by Jeff Wiltse, does an admirable job of capturing the history.
Sadly, they were all shut down in the 1950s and 60s by the hysterical right. While some like to say it was the fear of polio, the real factor was Desegregation, and that White leaders decided to shut the pools rather than see youth of different races fraternizing. White thugs often drove black families away with violence. Meanwhile, the backyard swimming pool came into vogue, trending the vogue of atomized and isolated lifestyles, and sadly, the nation never looked back. Most Americans are never aware that this legacy of communality existed.
It would be nice if the Times acknowledged this legacy and how it was lost to hysteria and racism. The book Contested Waters, by Jeff Wiltse, does an admirable job of capturing the history.
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Does anyone think American public pools/hot tubs would be anything like those found in Iceland?
4
How much of that coincided with the flight to suburbs? A place mostly devoid of public places since everyone has to drive to get anywhere. The public gathering places of suburbs are seasonally enjoyable parks, supermarkets, and the mall. Go to an actual city instead of the burbs and you will still find many public areas full of people mingling. Even pools.
1
A stew of humans in speedos. No thanks.
13
Try it. May be you'll change your mind. I love it.
6
The homogeneity of Iceland's population also contributes to the sense of community. I visited in 2014 and went to a natural hot springs. Because I have both a urostomy and a colostomy, I hesitated a moment before getting naked in front of strangers from my small-bus tour. But the woman next to me turned out to be a retired ostomy nurse from Norway, and we chatted about improvements in ostomy care on the drive back.
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This evokes fond memories of floating in the Blue Lagoon a year ago this past January, feeling warm while sleet fell on our heads. And the practical, open Icelanders themselves. Come to think of it, it's time to think about going back.
17
A nice article. We visited Iceland in June 2014 and enjoyed our visit to a couple of the hot pools, including the Myvatn Nature Baths, which I think was pronounced MEE-vuh.
One question - in the second to the last paragraph - is the name of the Ph.D. student spelled correctly? Rather than Gudmundsdtottir , I think it should be Gudmundsdottir , which would be more of a correct Icelandic spelling.
One question - in the second to the last paragraph - is the name of the Ph.D. student spelled correctly? Rather than Gudmundsdtottir , I think it should be Gudmundsdottir , which would be more of a correct Icelandic spelling.
12
I wondered the same thing about that spelling.