Lowlife Plays It Cool on the Lower East Side

Mar 23, 2016 · 22 comments
Suzanne (Oakland)
And, when introduced to the chicken, you say, "Hello, Colin".
Jodi (<br/>)
I hated the service at La B. I guess this spot might not be for me.
Seneca (Rome)
Synchronized service? Lowlife is clearly ahead of its time. When robots are waiters that's what you'll get from the minute you enter the restaurant. At least now you can endure it in a warm bath of irony and contempt.
Marc Campbell (Austin, Texas)
I had a Hispanic girlfriend that lived in that neighborhood back in 1979. She used to throw me the keys to the building from her window so I could let myself in. The halls and stairways were jammed with drug dealers and she was afraid to walk down the stair by herself. That was the real lowlife. Knowing there's a restaurant in that area now selling $120 steaks is bordering on the surreal. Back in the day, food was fuel. It kept going us between coke binges and gigs at clubs on the Bowery, St. Marks and Alphabet City. The best food was the cheapest. And the best cheap food was Strombolis on 1st Ave.
Chris (Pelham, NY)
Maybe we can leave the phrase "exploded carcass" out of future reviews of places where food is consumed?
Michael (Hennessy)
What a gnarled knot of warring impulses I have about Wells's review. On one hand, I read paragraphs of praise for food that sounds like a three star review. Then I have to put up with his drive-by shooting of a wait staff that he acknowledges as friendly but takes umbrage at the way they clear the plates. The affectation of schizophrenia on the part of Wells, all delivered with his own dose of self importance, has me confused. And worried for his mental health

I have eaten at Lowlife 5 times in the past two months, and can only agree with Wells' opinion of the food and the space. I have watched a service staff that is pretty young start to find their groove, and have never had anything but warm and friendly care from them. There are certainly opportunities for improvement, but I would not be returning if not for the combination of fantastic, thoughtful food as well as a front of the house team that makes me feel welcome.

I happen to agree that providing some guidance on the menu as to relative plate size could serve to avoid some confusion. I strongly disagree with teh comments about price. The prices are very much in line for similar quality in similar restaurants. And while it is easy to take a shot at the $120 steak, Wells fails to qualify that is a dish for two, making its price in line with comps.

I saw Lowlife absorb and adjust to review in Eater. I am sure they will do so with this review. Its worth going...there are some culinary revelations to be had.
Gina Davies (Brooklyn)
It hardly seems fair to fault the waitstaff for the way they have obviously been trained. Since the restaurant just opened a few months ago, it seems that they may be trying too hard, if anything. Given time and some constructive criticism, (versus the tear down kind), the management may allow the waitstaff to behave more naturally and let the food speak for itself. And the food speaks volumes!
Jim Dixon (New York)
The review is faulting the restaurant for how the waitstaff has been trained. Key distinciton.
Raj LI, NY (<br/>)
Lowlife? Name for an eatery.

Now I am one for the shock value of an unique name or schema.

But, really? And with four Dollar signs in the review header?

Setting a very low bar here. Please be more creative. Think hard, or harder.

Cheers anyway!
Steven Kotok (New York)
I've been to Lowlife four or five times and have been specifically impressed with the friendly, down-to-earth service. I didn't dissect the servers' diction as precisely as Pete Wells seems to have but his experience doesn't jibe with mine at all. And yes, the food is excellent and prices appropriate.
davedwtn (New York, NY)
The only thing that seems gnarled are Pete's knickers. I think you missed it on this one, guy. I've been couple of times and the food is seriously AWESOME -- like craveable. And really chill and friendly. So why all the fuss? Kind of harsh.
Bookpuppy (NoCal)
Back in my day that was a great neighborhood if you were in the market for some heroin. How things (and prices) change. And, yes, I know I'm dating myself and the neighborhood in question. Still, I'd take a local pupuseria of yesteryear over this pretentious stuff any day. Granted that chicken does look good.
seaperl (New York NY)
Allen, Neal, Timothy and Joseph are there to make it seem cool. No. Please universe... let this change.
ManhattanWilliam (New York, NY)
After reading this review, I find myself fighting the urge to make the snarkiest comments imaginable in reply to what I've read. I mean the very name, Lowlife, is beyond pretentious considering they're serving a steak that's priced at Peter Lugar levels. No doubt there's some good food to be had here as evidenced by the pictures and descriptions however since I'm a native of this city and not a wannabee hipster I think I'll pass on yet another place that seems to audition it's guests and thinks they can get away with that. No, please do NOT "introduce me to my next course". I'm perfectly capable of making my own introductions to my food, thank you very much - I'm a GROWN-UP after all.
MK (South Village,NYC)
How about grabbing the big black hats by the shoulders and forming a conga line ?
Achoo (NYC)
I've eaten at Lowlife many times and feel compelled to note that while I agree with this review's assessment of the food (it is spectacular), my experience with the service at Lowlife could not be more different than what's described here. Each and every time I've been, I've been struck by how warm and natural the service is.

It is as if Mr. Wells is describing a totally different restaurant from the one I've visited numerous times. I would take what he says in this review with a substantial grain of salt -- this is a lovely restaurant, and it's loveliness really is not reflected in what I think is a misguided review.
Leslie (Dee)
Love this restaurant! I'm a neighborhood local and have been back 3 times since it opened. I have never before seen a review criticizing an establishment's service for being too good. Can't beat that Panna Cotta.
Patou (New York City, NY)
They're not criticizing it for being "too good", "Neighborhood Local"-Mr. Wells is pointing out how absolutely pretentious, idiotic and mannered this waitstaff sounds "introducing" one to their next course and getting ready for the "experience" of a meal. Ugh, this place sounds as tedious as the tourists who like to come and brag about how they were at a "see-and-be-seen" NYC restaurant.
Stuart (New York, NY)
The pretention here can't help but remind me of the cashiers at Citarella, who are now forced to call the next person on line to pay with the phrase "the following guest, please." It's a kind of corporatized madness that doesn't even qualify as pretentious. It's just stupid. Just as it's ridiculous to "introduce" you to "our" chicken, I am not a guest at Citarella. And I'm the "next" person on line, not the following person! God help us all and the proprietors of this restaurant, where the food sounds great.
Nat (NYC)
Stu, this annoying trend is widespread and not limited to Citarella.
Mark (NYC)
The idea of being introduced to my meal is reason enough to avoid this place. I know some people thrive on pretension, but I avoid it at all costs.
Give me a good meal with sincere, friendly service and I'm happy.
oma (Vermont)
In the neighborhood? Go to Supper on E 2nd between A and B. Eat in the bar. Go early, it gets crowded. Ask about fire hose wristbands and say hi from me.