A New California Cuisine

Feb 21, 2016 · 15 comments
Cat (West Coast, USA)
The vegetable pictured is a sweet potato, not a yam. They are not botanically related --sweet potatoes belong to the family Convolvulaceae" and yams belong to the familly "Dioscoreaceae" -- and are quite different vegetables. (BTW, sweet potatoes are not related to regular potatoes.) The exterior of a yam is very dark brown and hairy, and they can grow enormous. The inside is quite dry and contains different starches and other constituents than sweet potatoes. Yams are much less available in the US, usually only in specialty markets. Many grocers erroneously label their sweet potatoes as yams. The USDA requires that any grocer that labels their sweet potatoes "yams" must also label them as sweet potatoes. While I understand that for generations Americans have erroneously called sweet potatoes "yams", I'm disappointed a food writer made this error.
CPM (Ga)
Yams? These are sweet potatoes.....
David (Boston)
I made this recipe last night, it was fantastic!
planetwest (CA)
There are two restaurants in California that are the best in the world and for different reasons, Gjelina and Trois Mec. Travis Lett at Gjelina has developed an elegant cuisine that is unique in its honesty and simplicity and is supremely enjoyable. Ludo Lefebvre has opened a bistro, Petit Trois, that transcends bistro cooking in Paris, or anywhere. Los Angeles is blessed and the molecular chefs can scurry back to their laboratories and pretension.
S (<br/>)
Those 'yams' in the recipe are actually just another variety of sweet potato. Real name (dioscurea) are less common in the US.
Jasmin Sacarello (New York, NY)
This is amazing!
Scott L (PacNW)
This brings to mind some quotes from a few of our all-time greatest thinkers:

"Our task must be to free ourselves . . . by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature and its beauty." "Nothing will benefit human health and increase chances of survival for life on earth as much as the evolution to a vegetarian diet."
--Albert Einstein

"The time will come when men such as I will look upon the murder of animals as they now look on the murder of men."
--Leonardo da Vinci

"Non-violence leads to the highest ethics, which is the goal of all evolution. Until we stop harming all other living beings, we are still savages."
--Thomas Edison

“Until he extends the circle of his compassion to all living things, man will not himself find peace.”
—Albert Schweitzer
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Wonderful citations!
I only wish you gave complete references to them.
But what do they have to do with "A New California Cuisine"?
There is a considerable body of opinion that California is one of the foci of much of the evil that engulfs the country. The other being New York City.

Perhaps diversion into gastronomy will cure the spirit of the Californians.
kris (<br/>)
Just wondering where you heard that California is a focus "of much of the evil that engulfs the country"?

I've lived here since 1969 and feel that just the opposite is true. We are friendly, generous, curious, and civil-minded. Fabulous weather and a western border of ocean has a lot to do with our happiness I'm sure.

As for our "diversion into gastronomy", I would say we've been pretty much on the forefront of that since the 1970s. Please Google Alice Waters in Berkeley CA if you want to see where the current food trends all started, and continue unabated today, even worldwide.

Also, if you Google the quotes above by Scott L, you will find the sources.
JM (Los Angeles)
"There is a considerable body of opinion that California is one of the foci of much of the evil that engulfs the country. The other being New York City." Having lived in both New York City and Los Angeles for many years, I believe the above description of these cities is based mostly on envy. Both places are lovely to live in, enormous fun with all the enlightening activities anyone could wish. Moving from the suburbs to either of these cities would raise or cure anyone's spirits!
JM
Kirsten Lindquist (Humboldt County, CA)
I just bought this a week ago and cannot get enough of it! Thank you so much for reviewing it, it is a spectacular book! Having been to the actual restaurant (but now living more than 1,000 miles north of it) what a pleasure to taste the restaurant in my home!
vacciniumovatum (Seattle)
My apologies Kirstin, but I believe that you are about 650 miles from Venice Beach since I am about 1200 miles from there.
Patricia Cross (Oakland, CA)
Years ago I learned a similar technique, from an aesthetician, with sweet potatoes, and have made them ever since. After baking and splitting them open lengthwise, I score them in cross-hatch fashion, sprinkle with sea salt and place butter on top so it can melt into the scoring. Pass around wedges of lime and a bowl of cilantro. The citric qualities of lime cuts through the sweetness of the vegetable and the cilantro adds a lovely top note. In the absence of a unique pepper or yogurt, this is a wonderful alternative.
Russ (<br/>)
That sounds like a great technique. Can't wait to try it on some yams we have tomorrow. Why don't you post your comment to the recipe comments to share with everyone? Thanks!
Claire Theodore (Fair Haven NJ)
I moved from Venice, CA to New Jersey 5 years ago. I've had many delicious meals at Gjelina, probably my favorite restaurant in America. The atmosphere, quality of the produce, spirit and energy of the staff and interesting star sightings (from Anthony Kiedis to Reese Witherspoon) all made for memorable dining experiences. Now that I have the cookbook I am happy to try to re-create the excellent food. I just wish I could shop at the Venice and Santa Monica farmer's markets to buy the ingredients!