To Move Beyond Malbec, Look Below the Surface

Feb 17, 2016 · 21 comments
bud unanski (holmdel, nj)
My very first exposure to Malbec was that of Susana Balbo via Whole Foods in NJ. I have since had several others including Punta Final, Mendoza, Alamos and a few store brands. It has taken about 5 years to go through perhaps a few dozen bottles. All good, all reasonable. The Susana Balbo became so popular that it is now almost impossible to find locally. Is there a recent guide to Malbecs that anyone can suggest.
Roby (Mendoza)
Mendoza is divided into five tourist areas; the wine region (Gran Mendoza), High Mountains, the Valle de Uco, the Nevado Region (in the south) and Tierras con Historias (in the east). The total population is 1.650.000. Each region has its own particular attractions, from adventure sports to rural and ecotourism and wine tours which include visits to important wineries and tastings of their famous world class wines. In each area, visitors can explore the history and culture of the people and enjoy the many local traditional festivals. Although Mendoza receives visitors all year round, the peak tourist season is linked to the key activities, the ascent of Aconcagua (December to March), the National Wine Harvest Festival (the first weekend in March), Easter (April) and the start of the winter season (June). At these times, tourists are easily accommodated in the region’s hotels.
Richard Finn (Babylon, NY)
The Tunuyan area is a fantastic destination a the serious wine tourist. A huge winery five miles west of the small city is Salentein vineyards whose wonderful malbec and cabernet wines are available in the New York area. About a mile up the road is a small bodega that produces Azul, which in my judgement is the crown jewel of malbecs. Unfortunately, the wine is not distributed in the US.
tk (New Jersey)
Love your opinion of: 2012 MAIPE Reserve Malbec- Mendoza Argentina ? I love this wine served in a singing wine glass sipped while I gaze upon the legs of the wine clinging to the glass. May not be top of the Mark, but I like it a lot.
KBD (San Diego, CA)
If you want a surprise (pleasant for me) taste a French Malbec next to an Argentinian one. Besides the terroir there's got to be a lot of difference in wine-making practices. Seems you can find good ones there, but most of what get's out of the country that I have had -- even in Brazil -- is oaky syrup with lots of alcohol.
Frank (Houston)
I guess I ain't snooty enuff to realize that the Malbec I am drinking is somehow passe! For my money, it is by far the best value - in fact, I'm told that they grow so little Malbec in Napa because they can't compete with Argentina/Mendoza.
If you want to blow your socks off, try a $55-60 bottle of the better Malbec! Immense everything, the finish in particular.
Anonymous (USA)
Was just there a few weeks ago. There are some great wineries and Malbec. Beautiful region....would recommend to anyone visiting Argentina.
Dante (Atlanta)
Great article.

I was in Mendoza in December and wanted to share with you a guide that I used extensively in preparation: "500 Vinos de Argentina - Que Vale La Pena Beber." The book is really a project of love by the author, Diego Bigongiari and gives an objective, excellent review of many wines and their bodegas. I appreciate that the author pulls no punches, about his previous (sometimes erroneous) reviews and gives a clear opinion about vintages, wines and wineries.
Billygib (Hendersonville, NC)
I have enjoyed Mendoza , red , since our first trip to Argentina, almost 20 years ago. Finding them on a menu has always been a pleasant surprise. I had my first tasting of a WHITE Malbec last evening and was very, very, pleasantly surprised. I will now be looking for more of these wines in my area, and my travels.
Jose Valdez (California)
Argentina is one of the best kept secrets. I traveled to there in 2010 and I had a wonderful time enjoying the food and wine. Also, the people were very friendly and welcoming in Buenos Aires and in Mendoza.
I had the opportunity to try several different wines down there and they were all very good! Even the Argentine beer was outstanding.
I had the pleasure to travel south of Mendoza on Ruta 40 to Lago del Diamanté in the Andes, and I was impressed with the number of farms and vineyards along the way, very similar to California.
Even the view of the massive Tupungato Volcano (in the photo) that would tower over Denali by 1,500 ft., was a sight to behold.
I usually prefer California wine, but now, one of my favorite wines is any Malbec from Argentina. Costco usually has at least two or three different Argentine Malbecs.
Do yourself a favor, visit Argentina!
Butch Burton (Atlanta)
Jose:
Yes Malbec from Argentina is great - have a bottle on my desk now, Costco's own label. BTW for of those of you who don't know, Costco is the largest wine retailer in the USA.

Don't forget Chile - my winter house wine is a Cabernet/Merlot blend and at $7 per 1.5 mL - what a buy even at Costco!
Jose Valdez (California)
You are right Butch, Chile has some outstanding wines as well! I found some very good Chilean wines at Costco too.
In 2010, I was going to visit a high school classmate, Ed Flaherty, who happens to be a winemaker down in Chile, and he has his own labels too. But I had to cut my South American adventure short after becoming ill from high altitude sickness while on a two week expedition in the Andes. So I missed out on visiting the Chilean wine country.
But that just gives me another reason of many for going back to South America.
Sivia (San Francisco)
There are also some terrific Malbec blends being produced in the region of Salta, in the North. The elevation there is higher, and even though the region is famous for its Torrontes, Malbecs from there when blended with Tannat or Cab. can be fantastic.
Dante (Atlanta)
Lavaque (Quara) is an example of a particularly great Salta producer of Tannat, but I think that Malbec is most beautiful as either a single expression or blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. For instance, Zuccardi Zeta and Luigi Bosca Icono are great examples of a cab-malbec blend.
EJ McCarthy (Greenfield, MA)
An interesting article about applied geology and soil science and how the association of soil and topography contributes to the unique wines of Mendoza. Too bad the photos didn't include any of those soil pits mentioned in the piece.
jgury (chicago)
Catena Zapata is right. Altitude is one of the critical aspects that can give Argentine Malbec some of the most desired characteristics like fine intense violet tannin. The whites are some of most under appreciated in the word and among my favorites with too many to recommend.
Jeff (<br/>)
One of the most amazing techniques in Argentina is the Malbec - Malbec, or Malbec - Malbec - Malbec blend. VIntners combine Malbecs from different altitudes to add amazing depth and complexity to the wine.

These outstanding wines don't deserve the brush off so often given to Argentina Malbecs by the wine snobs.
María Alejandra Benavent (vienna)
Being a teetotaller, I can hardly appreciate the fruity flavor and enticing fragance of good wine. Yet I do know what this marvelous place looks and feels like for it belongs to my cherished past. I still keep some mementos from Mendoza, fading polaroid snapshots and hancrafts from the region.
What remains alive, though, is not tangible. The sun´s sweet caress and the mesmerizing sight of sprawling vineyards over the magic earth. It is the sacred soil that breeds life into juicy grapes, pears and peaches so that unique flavours may linger on in the traveller´s mind.
I still dream of aromatic fruit, fresh, dry or candied. Still recall the leisurely pace of life in the west, far away from the bustling urban centers.
If I ever return to your region, I promise to try a sip of Malbec to enhance the power of memories old and new.
Tokyo Tony (<br/>)
I have a friend who likes wine even though she, like a lot of Japanese women, doesn't drink. She swirls the glass, sniffs the aroma, sips a bit into her mouth, sloshes it around and spits it out.
global hoosier (goshen, IN)
malbec's are gonna now be more in my future!
David (<br/>)
It's an interesting article on an easily overlooked influence in winemaking. That said, wouldn't it gave been appropriate to have at least two photos of the soil pits instead of stock photos of winemakers sniffing their wines or bottle glamour shots?