In Ecuador, the Frugal Traveler Tries Luxury

Feb 07, 2016 · 97 comments
Flatiron (Colorado)
Bon voyage Seth! I've always enjoyed your sense of adventure and the tales you tell. You have always had your feet on solid ground as you travel.
Cparisb4udie (New Orleans, LA)
NOT EVERYONE who reads *The Frugal Traveler* has the pleasure of meeting him (or her); I did. He stayed & slept in the bottom bunk just across the small room from my bottom bunk in Lafayette, Louisiana, back in late August of 2010.

Seth was traveling by Amtrak train through this Cajun Capital, and even experienced the Gueydan Duck Festival in that tiny town while here. Two days later (Amtrak runs every other day here), he was riding the rails to New Orleans and its many dark yet irresistible charms. I remained behind, simply happy to have met him (he admitted that he hardly ever openly introduced himself as The Frugal Traveler, and did so with me only because I was a fellow writer). I hoped he would return to stay in this Cajun culture's queen city one day in my own soon-to-be-opened Lafayette Downtown Hostel (we've been open a couple of years and are doing well, thank you), where he would have found a bargain, natch ... - Storyteller Joe Paris
dmangurian (Santa Rosa, CA)
I'm American but my wife is Ecuadorean. I've been to Ecuador at least 15 times traveling nearly everywhere. He missed a couple of Ecuadorian food standouts--fritada (fried cubes of pork), hornado (roasted pig--Ecuador is a great pork country). roasted cue (guinea pig), and corvina (a Pacific fish), and empanadas del vent (puffed empanadas with no filling), Not everything can be covered in a newspaper article, but Seth Kugel writes beautifully and captures much of the feel of the country, its beauty, the people, and its food. Better than most guidebooks.
Beatrice ('Sconset)
Thank you for all your columns. Best wishes for continued interesting travels.
pwb (Maryland)
Love your writing style and point of view.
Thanks for the hours of reading pleasure,
and vicarious adventures thru your eyes.
Best, pwb
Louis Guy (St Louis, MO)
That photo of the tourist dancing with yet another indigenous dance troupe at the train station. Wow, travel doesn't get much more authentic than that.
Russell (Pennsylvania)
What is the point of expending (presumably limited) funds to send your columnist on a luxury travel experience only to have him trash every aspect of it and instead treating us to an in-depth report on his cultural and ethical superiority, his trendy pursuit of "authentic" experiences and the tired travel trope of "spend less, get more"? Luxury travel is close to a necessity for a lot of people who unlike you, don't know the culture, speak the language and have the benefit of full mobility. Should these folks simply stay home?

Ultimately, it's an article in the travel section so who cares, but what a waste of NYT money and my time.
pete (Litchfield CT)
@Russell he was speaking in a first person voice sharing his point of view. Nowhere in the article did he say that "luxury travel" is bad, rather he just said it's not for him.
gowhereyouhaveneverbeen (Currently South America, Planet Earth)
Dear Seth, I have enjoyed your column for many years. What are you up to next? Would you really like someone to "fund that research"? I have been working in the travel industry and believe there is room for deeper travel. Let's meet to discuss options. There are so many people out there that want to travel like you but are limited not with funds but with courage. Let's find a sweet spot for them.
Leeann (New York)
Gracias for a grand finale to the Frugal Traveler. How perfect that Ecuador is the subject/locale! I am completely smitten with Ecuador - having visited the heavenly #HaciendaCusin two times already. Hacienda Cusin, located in the sierra in Otavala, is a restored 17th century Andean estate, lovingly owned and managed for oh-so-many years by Nik Milhouse - and run by the Cusin family, er staff, that welcomes us back each year with sincerity and warmth. Cusin's ornamental and edible gardens are spectacular - hummingbirds magically flit about and llamas dot the lawns - for a transporting, fairy-tale, dream-like experience. One never has to leave the exquisite Hacienda; however there are the rose farms within walking distance (great hiking, too), sublime horseback riding (stables across the street), the best food and craft market in South America in Otavalo, the Condor Park, ideal temps: the days are warm, the nights are cool - fireplaces and hot water bottles in the bed will spoil you! The weather has the added benefit of not being hospitable to insects or snakes or other pesky flying things. The air is like silk. There is luxury in nature and hospitality to be found at Hacienda Cusin… Enjoy your own heavenly Hacienda adventure.
KR (Western Massachusetts)
I always look forward to your travel stories. I'm so glad you're back writing about vacations 99 percent of us can actually afford. And hey, if you indulge in a little luxury once in a while in Ecuador or somewhere else, I think you've earned it. I'm just waiting for the day when the NYT assigns Ms. Private Jet (aka Stephanie Rosenbloom) to tough it out somewhere for less than $100 a day, including hotel! Keep up the great work, Seth!
ShiningLight (North Coast)
Oh no!! No more Frugal Traveler from Seth! (sniff!)
We feel like we are loosing a friend at the NYT. In addition to always looking for your column, we so enjoyed briefly speaking with you (and Michelle H) at the NYT Travel Show a couple of years ago.

Ever since, can't read your columns without the memory of your merry (slightly mischievous) eyes that day. Your curiosity, outlook and honest reporting have been so welcome. Best wishes, of course; may you find an opportunity which lets you expand on your experience and world view.

(Enjoyed this peak at Ecuador - Goes beyond the Galapagos.)
mikenh (Nashua, N.H.)
It is sad to see so many snarky remarks from the one-percenters in this forum.

Because, if anything Seth Kugel has taught most of us is that the adventure of travel is not how much you spend but how you spend your time traveling.

Good travels Seth and thank you for giving us an alternative look at the world, which, sadly, is in short supply from a newspaper that far too many times presents the world through the eyes from a pampered first-world elitist.
susie (New York)
Everyone has their own style, preferences and budget situation. I prefer to be open to both high and low end experiences. That way you can pick what is more important to you.

Once in Patagonia, through happenstance, I seemed to alternate between hostel and 5 star. Each one was perfect!

While luxury is, by definition, very nice in many ways, it sometimes makes for a sterile travel experience.
Barbara F. Ray (Salem, OR)
I'm sorry to hear you missed the southern Highlands of Ecuador on your trip. The little town of Vilcabamba and the Izhcayluma resort on the hillside overlooking it are our favorite places in all of Ecuador--$319 for six nights plus meals in 2012. The lovely and relaxing resort is owned by German brothers so there is a menu of German dishes as well as Ecuadorean food, some of it freshly harvested from the grounds of the resort. It is an easy walk down to the town with its attractive plaza and church and only $1 for a pick-up ride back up the hill to the resort. Vilcabamba is best reached by bus from Cuenca.
franko (Houston)
Or, even better, from Loja. Climate and terrain much like New Mexico, and equally over-run by gringo hipster organic restaurants, yoga studios, and coffee bars. Santa Fe South.
Craig Schofield (Queens)
Sounds great Barbara. Maybe I'll stop in for a schinkenbrot or a paprikaschnitzel on my next trip. Do they have any German beer on tap?
jyun1 (Northern California)
Congrats on a successful run as FT! Your columns were always informative, entertaining, and inspiring. Best of luck in all your future endeavors.
Lydia (Los Gatos, CA)
Seth, this is very sad. I have enjoyed ALL of your columns, and will miss your work. I have also used some of your tips. Great work! Thank you!
Lynn Lohr (Sausalito, CA)
Oh, no! No Seth Kugel? Who will we lose next from the NY Times? Gail Collins? Good luck to your successor, Seth. He has some very well-worn shoes to fill. Hope you get another great gig after this one. Maybe Bourdain needs a sidekick on CNN!
L..R. (Port Alberni BC Canada)
Seth; My wife and I travel the way you did on this trip high end restaurant one day a road side cart the next. We enjoy both but the best is when you make a personal connection and share an experience with a local. The regret I have with your articale is that being a new subscriber to the times it is the first I have read me thinks I have really missed out!!
Salem Sage (Salem County, NJ)
Seth, thank you for your work. I will miss you.
Jared (San Francisco)
Budget travel is inherently more eye-opening and adventurous than the standard luxury trip. However, it all depends what you consider 'adventure' and 'luxury.' You can both stay at 5-star hotels and eat at Michelin starred restaurants and wander around independently through off the beaten path neighborhoods.

I love Ecuador - such a diverse country with the mountains, rain forest and Galapagos. I have fond memories from my trip there in 2010, apart from the squall I faced while climbing Cotopaxi. Surprisingly, Quito has delicious sushi as well!
Mary Sojourner (Flagstaff, Az.)
Ah, but knowing you can't "escape" to high end travel options, pushes a traveler to experience more.
TS (Virginia)
Thank you, Seth.

I've enjoyed every Frugal Traveler column you have written.

Happy Trails.
ggallo (Middletown, NY)
Yeah, I kinda agree with you on this, but..... I believe writing travel columns has the pitfall of writing to an audience with a wide scope of "discretionary" funds, from zero to hundreds (or more) dollars a day for travel. So yes, to me the author, at times, comes off as condescending and superior, but the guy is tryin'. Even though I feel slightly or more assimilated in Ecuador, this column makes me want to do more, without the expensive stuff we can find down the block in the U.S. I'm already on the bus, carrying my luggage.
Craig Schofield (Queens)
I think the premise of Seth's article is a false dichotomy. Most frugal travelers would consider inexpensive hostals or homestays for a trip to Ecuador depending somewhat on their level of Spanish fluency. The Casa Gangotena is entirely out of our league. And let's face it: we resent the sense of entitlement that comes with the financial capacity to spend $500 a night on a hotel. However, we also should avoid the temptation to feel too smug about our travel experiences among the "real" people. The point has been made in some of these comments that Ecuador is a poor country. What that means is that most Ecuadorians will see a traveler who can afford a $5 restaurant dinner or a $15 a night room as a "rich" person. Middle class Americans need to keep that in mind when we visit countries like Ecuador.
Eduardo Motti (Brazil)
If Lucas Peterson is half as interesting as Seth was as the Frugal Traveller, he will be doing an outstanding job. Seth, we loved every line.
Fred (Colonia, NJ)
Hi Seth

I will miss your excellent frugal travel adventures -- my favorite Times travel columns. You have provided inspiration for trips I'll take, fond memories of trips enjoyed in the past, and a refreshing sense of realistic adventure. Best of luck as you move on to other pursuits.
Jane L (Missouri)
Seth, I will miss you. Your column is the one that I look for each week and read without fail. Your humorous outlook and way with words delight me. I am a bit too old and physically unsuited to travel with your level of frugality, but I try to find travel bargains as that is mostly what I can afford and also travel vicariously by reading your adventures. Thank you for all of those adventures.
Rumesha Ahmed (San Francisco)
I will miss your insightful and enjoyable columns, Seth. Wish you the best of luck in your next adventure!
OM (Tucson)
We read with dismay of your passing/work on to other budgeteers! You will be really missed for we agree adventure is best at any age with less comforts than perhaps one can afford! Thank you very much!
You made a difference in our plans.
Genevieve (Quito)
Hi all - next time you send someone down here, I'd agree with several of the other commenters and tell you that Ecuador (like many destinations) is a better one if a local shows you around. There's plenty of adventure to be had, but probably not starting at the most expensive (and lovely) hotel in the Centro Historico. I've been here for 4 years and have had a variety of experiences with a huge swing in budget levels - it really depends on seeking out what interests you and finding good people. Best experience of all was still summiting Cotopaxi - $140 with a private guide. I'd rather spend 3 hours sleeping in a little mountain lodge and the rest of the night climbing than almost $400 at a hotel that insulates you from the people around you...I'm with Judy - ask me for details next time!
Avecita Chicchón (San José, California)
I love to travel like Seth does, and have followed many of his trips and taken his advise over the years. One thing about the Saraguro: when I visited them, I learned that they dress in black because, according to oral tradition, they are mourning the fact that their ancestors were transplanted centuries ago as mitimaes from Cusco, Peru, by the Incas when they conquered what is now Ecuador. Mitimaes were family groups that were separated from their original communities (faithful to the Incas) to recently conquered territories to help with the integration process under the Inca rule. Fascinating. Good luck to Seth, and thanks for the inspiring and insightful articles.
Robert (San Francisco, CA)
How morally superior the author sounds; Man of the people! New "friends"! Over-crowded buses! Street food! Well, good for you. I hope you didn't get sick, throw out your back hefting your own luggage or, gasp, encounter any affluent Americans. I realize that the author will no longer be writing "The Frugal Travleer"...is he moving on to the more aptly titled column "The Condescending & Self-Satisfied Traveler"? Oh, and any guesses how many of his new "friends" he has actually been in touch with since his return?
mikenh (Nashua, N.H.)
"Morally superior," "condescending"?

Spoken like a true one-percenter from arguably the most expensive place to live in America.
Robert (San Francisco, CA)
And your assumption that I am a "one-percenter" is based upon what? ESP? Hacking into my bank accounts? Actually, neither, because I am far from that one-percentile. So enjoy New Hampshire and your smug little presumptions.
Paul Johnson (Long Beach)
Thank you so much Seth Kugel for your wonderful columns. I traveled through all of Ecuador about thirty years ago and this brought back all the memories. In 1965 I took a year out of school and hitchhiked around the world on a budget of $3 a day. That was back when regular people were doing Europe on $5 a day so three dollars was frugal. In the past fifty years I have made it to 133 countries mostly as a frugal traveler. My plans for this year are Laos and Myanmar. NYT, keep these columns coming!
Holly (Laraway)
There is the festival of San Augustine in the Andes of Ecuador, near the attraction of Quiloto Volcanic Lake. It has bulls running around a home made corral and quite a locals festival. I watched a man get taken out by one of the mountain bulls they have there, life in the high Andes is not easy.
That festival summarizes up the real Andean Mountain Culture in one event. The three of us were the only touristas there. Great acclimation day, climbed Cotopaxi the next day. Ecuador is a great country, however with the leftest government safety and freedom has gone down hill.
Moth (Abiquiu, NM)
If Lucas Peterson gets tired of the job consider me. I travel frugally all the time, everywhere, can add drawings to photos.
Wendell Murray (Kennett Square PA USA)
I have not read Mr. Kugel's articles lately, but this is another excellent one. I love the photograph of Quito. Spectacular. So far I have only spent time in Chile, which is of course a wonderful place, but perhaps I will visit other countries in South America, including Peru and Ecuador. Certainly enticing.
TimothyCotter (Buffalo, N.Y.)
I also have enjoyed his writing, and approach to travel. Hopefully his successor can continue the approach and write as well.
pjm (adelaide)
Lovely article, Seth: I agree wholeheartedly with the annoyance that so much high-end cosseting produces.

Great pictures by Tony Cenicola, as well, particularly the wonderful "Z shaped flow" of the 2/8 picture with three people on horseback.
Doug Terry (Way out beyond the Beltway)

There is a parallel world that has been constructed for high end business travelers. It stretches around the regular world and you can glide through it in almost every major city on every continent. It is padded with luxo this and that and fancy meals. You will be greeted with officially extruded warmness and your needs will be well met. In exchange, you will be isolated from experiencing the raw realities of the countries you are visiting. You will return home knowing almost nothing new and will carry few impressionistic memories which, if you had them, could stew in your brain for weeks and months and help you to understand another culture and, perhaps, your own in a new way also.

I have traveled in the luxo, business world. Sometimes it is a necessity, but I am ever prepared, I hope, for the dirt and grit of how real people in a real world live. Otherwise, I'd just stay home.

I don't always jump at any opportunity to rub shoulders with the poorest or most desperate citizens. Safety and a small measure of comfort almost always come first. Aside from this modest caveat, I pity those who are always surrounded with luxury everything and who travel thousands of miles only to experience a different version of the luxury and coddling they get at home or in their well paid jobs. They don't know what they are missing. In the main, however, many Americans, having traveled little, seem to be uncomfortable with travel itself, so coddling they need and eagerly seek.
Valerie (New York City)
Well said.
Frank (Oz)
a nice farewell article - thanks !

as a habitual frugal who has eked out 9 months 'Across Asia on the Cheap' (I think the first yellow Lonely Planet Guide) - now older bringing elderly family who want drive-in hotel comfort air-conditioning - I found this article and comments interesting

yes both have their place - being habitually frugal saves money to spend on preferred luxuries but can be in-your-face confronting - occasional luxuries restore my energy and enthusiasm but can be isolating - both in turn are good.
Ricardo Zurita (Chelsea, NYC)
I was born in Quito but raised in New York City. The article reminded me of the deep impressions and everlasting memories that were made from my summer journeys to the mountains of my birth. I was constantly adventuring to remote hamlets, meeting some distant relative, eating exotic foods and reveling at the awe inspiring landscape. My traveling was indeed frugal - what a privilege!
Judy Blankenship (Ecuador)
Hey Seth - we live in Ecuador half of every year - in the small town of Cañar that you rode through on the rattling bus to Cuenca. We are the only outsiders here, which we like, and when we travel within Ecuador we travel frugal-style. We agree that local buses, community tourism, local guides, small hotels and - even market food - are the best. Next time come visit us!
[email protected] (Washington, DC)
Dude, wait 30 years and see how you feel about bunking in a hostel.
Condelucanor (Colorado)
I'm 70 and I stay in hostels when they are available.
Rio (Minneapolis, MN)
Yours is the one column I look for each week in the travel section of the Times. Your adventures are like my own, on the same type of budget, so I not only learn from them, but I find out about new places to go. Most of the travel section is meant for people with more money, less time, and a desire to bring with them the comforts of home. For me, travel is about leaving home and discovering new places, people, foods and traditions. I have appreciated all that you have brought home in your backpack to your readers, and you will be missed. Thank you.
Ty Lain (Minisink, NY)
That is not only a very nice comment, yet it is well-written and cool.
Thank you, Rio.
Ty Lain (Minisink, NY)
Seth, there are a couple of friends who I hope read your work, especially this last one, because they appear to think that they travel "better" than I do, and I am more frugal even than you! but I love travel so much, and have been abroad six years {or more} of my life, of course working some of that time.
My point is the one that you made so clearly....it is very cool to be able to be free, even if no one gives you a "special drink" the first second that you arrive somewhere.
People are so good to the traveler who tries.
rheffner3 (Italy)
Good luck Seth. I always look forward to your columns. Alas, another favorite NYT columnist bites the dust........
Ike (Ohio)
Where's he going?
KR (Western Massachusetts)
Noooooooo!!!!!! This is not right! I hope this is Seth's choice. He's the best travel writer for The New York Times.

Good luck, Seth, and thank you for all the memories!
Balu (Bay Area, CA)
I did a bit of traveling in 2013 and I have to agree with the author 100%. A week of luxury is super nice and welcome after 3 weeks of frugal travel. It rejuvenates the tired body. But after a week of luxury, my mind always wanted the close interactions and adventure I enjoyed while traveling frugally, the joy of finding something without being spoon-fed. So much fun.
Lynda (Gulfport, FL)
I wish Seth Kugel well on his further adventures.

I've enjoyed this column for many reasons, however, I remain puzzled by the idea that the only valid adventure must come with discomfort, that one must walk the streets cold or hot and hungry to find the "real" of wherever one visits. I suspect--just from my own experience with a husband whose absent sense of direction has led to many city tours of alleyways filled with trash cans--more males than females believe all adventures come with crowds, freezing or sweating temperatures and unreliable sources of food, shelter and transportation. Nevertheless, Mr. Kugel's dipping his toes into luxury illustrates travel enjoyment can be found anywhere for any amount if one is looking with an open soul.

I do appreciate two things about this final column. First, that the use of an actual professional guide who is well-paid for his time and knowledge (rather than paid by steering one to tourist shopping spots) adds immeasurably to ones enjoyment and understanding when visiting foreign places.

Second, finding what one seeks from travel depends on attitude and expectation. Expecting an exotic destination to deliver the comforts of home rather than new experiences is a certain way to waste whatever amount of money one spends on travel.
Ben (Austin)
In general, I have been a frugal traveler all my life. However, as I have gotten older, I have both had the occasional opportunity for business travel and personal travel at the other end of the spectrum. The main differences I have found are:
1) Frugal travel exposes you to more authentic interactions with both fellow travelers and with locals
2) Luxury travel comes with expectations of gratuities that are not really optional - keep 5 to 10% of your budget for those tips along the way
3) Luxury travel has many less frustrations - except for the fact that the price is always so much more than I feel is justified
4) Frugal travel has less comfortable beds, but more comfortable restaurants - no dress code, no reservations required
5) You get more frequent flier miles when doing Luxury travel - often enough to help with my next frugal trip
Cookin (New York, NY)
I was so relieved when you returned to your natural traveling state. I spent about 10 weeks in Ecuador in 1978 - frugally - and in some ways, no traveling I've ever done has topped that. I've worried that the eco-tourism crowd and others have marred the landscape and experience since then, but you've persuaded me otherwise, and I'm inspired me to return and stick to old ways. Thanks!
Peter Rant (Bellport)
As a visiter to Quito several years ago I agree with the author that Ecuador is a spectacular country with amazing diverse topography and a friendly population. A couple of notes: Ecuador, which sit on the West coast of South America, is virtually directly South of New York, (same time zone). It's cool there, the elevation in Quito despite being on the equator makes it feel temperate. And, lastly, it's a third world country, the upper middle class are often in gated communities with razor wire atop surrounding walls.
ggallo (Middletown, NY)
"it's a third world country" is a first world comment. Ecuador has got everything we got in America, right down the block.
Charles J (Long Beach)
I was a Peace Corps volunteer in Cariamanga, Ecuador 50 years ago. This excellent article has brought the country close to me again.
Todd (Kanab, Utah)
An interesting article tainted by the tiresome backpacker mentality that spending too much somehow isn't "real" or "authentic".

Some of the most miserable travelers I've run into have been gap year students or prolonged backpackers trying to spread their dollar as far as they can, at the same time missing out on the opportunities in front of them because they were unwilling to spend money. Food, entertainment, remote destinations, etc.

Oh, and the reason people in business class don't applaud when landing is because they are flying 100s and 100s of segments a year and 100s of thousands of miles. Or because they are, you know, working.
Kay (Connecticut)
Yes! This is exactly what I was thinking reading this: the tiresome backpacker mentality that cheaper means more "authentic." In particular, I detect a whiff of the denigration of any experience that is new: so, you find the service obsequious because you are not used to it? How is that different from an inexperienced traveler sticking to Marriotts and group tours who puts down the backpack-and-hostel life because he has never tried it? (I see this with things besides travel: if I can't afford it, then it isn't worth it and anyone who pays for it must be a fool).

I like Seth's writing, and this is a column about frugal travelling (and I read it for a reason). But his lack of worldliness is showing (or maybe it is just his relative youth). There is a place in life for both frugal and luxury travel; they are different experiences. Neither is superior.

And before you point out that not everyone can afford luxury travel, please consider that not everyone can travel on a shoestring, either. People with a physical disability come to mind; further, many people cannot afford to travel at all, let alone out of the country--even on a budget. Travel is a trade-off between time/energy and money. You can substitute one for another. Some people have more time (young, healthy, childless) and some have more money. The same people have more time or more money at different times in their lives. Get over it, Seth! Reverse snobbery is still snobbery.
TimothyCotter (Buffalo, N.Y.)
As a quondam frugal traveler who worked for 44 years (you know,"worked") traveling when I could, your business traveler "fly all the time" rap is offensive. Some can't do that. And your travel was deductible by your employer and/or yourself. Or allowed you to fly (and more) with your miles. Save it, businessman.
ggallo (Middletown, NY)
Ah jeez, the reason people don't clap when a plane lands is because they're are either jaded, self-conscious, "inhibitively" sophisticated, or no fun. A FaceBook friend posed that many people don't clap because the fly so much. Yeah. That's a great reason. Maybe frequent theatre goers should stop applauding for the same reason. I like it. And ".....because they are, you know, working," doesn't even make cents. HaHa.
cascia (<br/>)
great article.

thank you!
Dusty Chaps (Tombstone, Arizona)
Seth, there will not soon be another travel journalist to match you! The compliments posted here from your readers is testament that you were in a league all your own. And answering your emails was a great service to provide your followers in this newspaper. Many thanks and much good luck. Love, Peter J. Andros
Condelucanor (Colorado)
Seth, you went to Cuenca and didn't buy a "Panama hat"?? Mine come from Montecristi, but that is just my style preference. You must return and buy a "fino, fino" grade, or "super fino", at least.
Craig Schofield (Queens)
Seth took the trip down the Avenida de los Volcanes without hiking the Quilotoa Loop, stopping in Banos or visiting the Ingapirca ruins. Trouble is there is so much to see and do that it won't all fit in one trip or one article. I'll be embarking on my 4th trip to Ecuador next month making a mirror image of Seth's trip: mostly frugal with a couple splurges here and there. I'm studying a little Kichwa in anticipation. Thanks to Seth for his reporting over the years. And I agree Condelucanor that the Montecristi fino is the real deal in "Panama" hats.
EC (<br/>)
Seth - what a lovely send-off. Would love to hear about your next professional venture. I hope we will still be able to read your writing. It's been a pleasure following you and your frugal family.
angelajean (DPO, AA)
I loved seeing Ecuador through your eyes. We have come to the same conclusion: adventure trumps luxury any day of the week. Not that I don't like a great meal or a well-appointed room but too often a luxury tour in Ecuador only places barriers between the tourist and the experience of touring. I've learned during my two years living in Quito that many a luxury lodge has a frugal twin - especially when looking towards the more expensive trips in Ecuador, like the lodges deep in the Oriente and in the far off Galapagos. The problem is that you practically have to speak Spanish to find these places. An English-speaking staff comes at a luxury price.
Ike (Ohio)
I would love to correspond with you regarding your experiences in Quito. I am investigating our perhaps spending some expat time there and the expat sites and magazines rave about it but I interested in developing my own sources. [email protected].
aelem (Lake Bluff)
Seth -
So loved your columns, I always looked forward to them. Wishing you more future adventures. Thanks for sharing.
Theresa Garza (Chicago, IL)
Excellent article. Seth will be missed.
OSS Architect (California)
Landing at the Quito airport can be a bit concerning. It's on a plateau as is the entire city, and the plane will fly just a few feet over the roof tops for it's entire approach. The first time, you're not sure if the pilot will make it to the runway.

The nice thing about the airport is that it is at 9,350 feet which is basically "cabin pressure" for a commercial jet. So no problems equalizing pressure in your ears before landing.
SF (South Carolina)
I think you are talking about the old Quito airport, which closed in 2013 - the new one is about 10 miles out of town, so no close calls with rooftops, and it is at 7874 feet. Much less exciting than the old one, but exciting landings are probably not a Good Thing in general!
Condelucanor (Colorado)
Seth, I loved your first set of columns. I lived in Brasil for a couple years ('89-'91) and enjoyed the first free election in decades. Collar was elected, unfortunately; I was a big Lula supporter. If you don't travel with the locals, stay where they stay, and eat with them, you don't learn the culture. I have followed you ever since. My wife and I took a 2 week semi-planned motorcycle trip through the Andes and Amazon of Ecuador in 2013. Our trip included stays in B&Bs, hostels, motels, small villages and getting lost on the crest of the Andes on a deeply rutted trail (8 hours from a paved road) and arriving back at our motel after mid-night. We also got to climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Besides getting lost, we enjoyed villages where my Spanish was much better than the locals because their primary language is Quichua (related to, but not Quechua). Try to find a motorcycle mechanic in a village of 200 where they don't speak Spanish and llamas outnumber motor vehicles 100 to 1. It was a fantastic trip and we have many fond memories of the people who are muy simpatico. My one rule was to stay 100 km away from the Colombian border, no FARC encounters for me. I suggest that potential visitors fly out of Houston. The return trip is interesting because the Quito airport elevation is 2,850 meters, about 9,400 feet, and the planes can't carry a full load of passengers and enough fuel. They have to land in Panama City to refuel for the flight back to the US.
rsmgrif (Spain)
I'm interested to hear more about your climb of Chimborazo. How did you arrange it, who did you climb with, how long did it take and did you make the summit?
James (Hartford, CT)
As always enjoyed so much reading your article, I even picture myself having this amazing trip to Quito, Ecuador; we at the office wanted to take a trip a long time ago, why not to Ecuador, every one agreed, thank you so much as always you had done a terrific job!
Gary (Oslo)
Say it ain't so, Seth! Thanks for all your wonderful columns - you'll be missed!
Dorothy (Philadelphia)
Happy trails, Seth! Loved reading your columns and wish you all the best.
LV (SF)
I enjoyed reading this and all your other articles. Thanks a lot, Seth, and Buen camino!
Peter (Cambridge, Ma)
The trouble with luxury travel is not the luxury. It's the fact that when you do it, you tend to travel with people of your own country who are like you, whereas, when you travel frugally, you tend to travel with the people of other countries who are different.
Traveling with people like yourself is easier, but you don't learn much. You learn more by traveling among people who are different, but it's more work and riskier.
Judy and I (his parents) have done both and we've enjoyed both. But we've been lucky because when you travel with this frugal traveler you get the advantages of both in the same trip.
Now that Seth is stepping down, we're looking forward to reading Lucas Peterson's columns and hearing about the rest of Seth's life Good luck to you both.
jackie (phoenix)
Sorry to see you leave, Seth. I agree with you on luxury service and agree with Peter on only traveling with people like one's self. As a single older woman I can't travel as Seth does but I seize every opportunity on even a guided tour to talk with local people. I'm excited to hear about Peter and Judy's last trip with Seth!
Condelucanor (Colorado)
It is possible to enjoy luxury without American tourists interrupting your enjoyment of the culture. Go where the well to do locals go. My wife and I celebrated our 20th anniversary at the Pousada de Viana do Castelo in Portugal, were thoroughly pampered. We never heard a word of English, except when the desk clerk was checking us in and wanted to practice her skills. I was of the same mind and insisted on Portuguese. No English, no German (thank God), no French; just Portuguese, Spanish and Italian. I highly recommend that Pousada. And it is a bargain today. When we were there the exchange rate was $1.33 to the Euro; now it is $1.12 to the Euro.
ms (ca)
Well, first, you're talking about travelling in a guided-group tour it sounds like, which is but one way to travel. Luxury travel, in my mind -- not that I've done any but I read a lot -- can vary -- some groups catering to high-end folks actually attract travellers from all over the world. Furthermore, if you stick to US-based tour groups, yes, you will likely be around other people from the US but if you use groups based in other countries, you may get more of a mix. This is not necessarily riskier -- try a UK, Australia based group for example. And if you know another language (or are willing to learn), this comes in handy. Two decades ago, I travelled China with a Chinese-based tour group which offered, I suspect, a much different perspective than a US one.

Also, some luxury companies customize tours -- like some of what Seth experienced -- to individuals and small groups. In those cases, you may be more likely to be surrounded by natives rather than other people from the US.
Meng (Phoenix)
I've enjoyed reading your columns all these years. You travel the way I do, simple and cheap, but full of learning and adventure. Good luck to your next adventure, whatever it may be.
jeff (boston)
Seth: sorry to see you go. Thought you did an excellent job throughout. May you land somewhere frugal but wonderful.
Michael (Carrollton, Texas)
The key to good travel is to find pleasure in both the high and the low. Trying to choose one is a false dichotomy.

I think that Kipling said it best in his poem, "If"
If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with Kings—nor lose the common touch,
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you,
If all men count with you, but none too much;
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds’ worth of distance run,
Yours is the Earth and everything that’s in it,
And—which is more—you’ll be a Man, my son!
bruce (Saratoga Springs, NY)
Good bye, Seth, you've done a great job for your readers.
Robert (South Carolina)
Any negative impact from the wide variety of foods consumed are probably not fodder for the average travelogue but it's hard to believe it didn't happen. This was one of Seth's best columns.
jackie (phoenix)
Seth seems to have an iron stomach. I marvel at the ecstasies over food that so many travel articles feature. For me, only beer and rice on trips to Asia, and not much more anywhere else. Why spend half of the trip being uncomfortable? What is important is the culture, the setting, not long, expensive, elaborate meals.
Condelucanor (Colorado)
In 40 years of travel on the cheap throughout the world I have suffered food poisoning only once, as a result of a hamburger at the Burger King in the Cancun airport. I'll eat with the locals every time over some tourist joint they can't afford.
uxf (CA)
Food is a priceless cultural treasure and pleasure. I'm sorry to hear your stomach can't take it. I suggest you look into ways to prep or toughen up your digestive system. Yogurt and bio-active cultures helped me a lot, but YMMV.
JBC (Indianapolis)
An interesting column as usual, but the author seemed predetemined to dismiss and dislike the non frugal elements of his experience.