Jacques Pépin’s Food Memories

Dec 09, 2015 · 91 comments
Main Street (Canada)
Jaques Pepin is joie de vivre!
sarah p (ny)
I just came back from New Haven and a visit to Ferraras for the first time after reading this article. Wow, what a find! As a transplanted New Yorker to a full-time Ct. shoreline resident-I don't have tons of patience for my NY friends who moan there isn't good food here. Thanks Jacque Pepin- I haven't seen a selection of roasts like that in years (perhaps Walts in Old Saybrook) but Ferraras is 1/2 the price!
Larry R. (Bay Shore, NY)
What a beautifully written article. This transplanted Frenchman writes better English than most Americans.
PAC (Malvern, PA)
A close reading of Mr. Pepin exposes his true love. His charming descriptions of food never seem to be without family and friends. He shows us that a food is a road that tastes best when it ends at a table full of the people you love.
ddempsey1 (NYC)
I would love to have Jacque's hands for just one day. They express his extraordinary knowledge and technique but mostly his love for the people around him.
Larry (The Fifth Circle)
I'd love to try some of those dishes, especially the veal shoulder and the chicken in cream sauce!
Grace Brophy (<br/>)
My favorite memory of Jacques Pepin is when he cooked with Julia Childs. She was getting on in age and could be both critical and silly at times, but he was always the consummate gentleman and great chef, never obviously disagreeing with her but he quietly let his own methods prevail. Loved watching them both together and separately and still do.
Liz (Westchester County)
My in-laws lived in Lyon years ago and followed Jacques Pepin closely. My father-in-law gave me a copper bowl so I could beat egg whites "just like Pepin does"...I have it to this day.
If you watch his hands, he shows his respect...near reverence...for any food he touches. Its like watching a magician.
Thank you, sir, for sharing your heart and soul. You have truly followed your bliss.
Bill (Fairbanks Ranch, Ca)
With a few strokes a knife, a brush or a pen Pepin makes miracles and he makes it look easy. You are unaware of the years of practice in the professional kitchen, his Masters Degree in French Literature, his skill as a painter, and his writing skill. He makes the sweat and hard work that underlie his culinary, visual and verbal artistry look fun. The man is a journeyman wizard.
DMutchler (<br/>)
If one dives deeply into philosophy, largely "eastern" thought, one finds that indeed there are different kinds or modes of memory. Affective memory is of one sort that, when the memory is present, one is not remembering per se, but is actually *experiencing* that time, place, everything, again, yet for the first time.
carpenter1 (Left Coast, Ca.)
Definitely a life worth living !
Sad that in 50 years children will look back on their childhood spent on a computer all day.
Lea Lane (Miami)
I had the privilege of spending a weekend with Chef Pepin in 1999 on Cape Cod. A bunch of food and travel writers were all invited to a weekend focused on food -- and a croquet match. Chef Pepin was exceptionally kind and his wife took care that we did not overwhelm him. He gifted the dozen of us with a dessert cookbook which features simple, perfect fruits. Delicious memories. I can't remember much about the croquet.
Marc (Montreal)
A great cook (as he always called himself, rather than "chef"), and a great writer too. Bonne fête, et bonne continuation Jacques.
Chungclan (<br/>)
Beautiful essay from someone who has inspired me for over 20 years. I can highly recommend the newest book, Heart & Soul in the Kitchen, as well as the oldest one I have, Today's Gourmet, published in 1991.

We made the fantastic roast turkey from that older book for the 23rd consecutive year, and it was just as delicious as the first time, maybe more so now that we have local heritage birds available to us.

Thanks for the many decades of art and inspiration.

Bravo! And happy cooking always.
T.F. Jauregui (El Segundo, CA)
Love, Love Love this! As a little girl I would rather watch Jaques Pepin and Julia Childs cooking on PBS than any other show. Thank you!
ManhattanWilliam (New York, NY)
Jacques Pepin is the world's greatest living chef and the ONLY person cooking on television today worth anyone's time. Anyone can learn "technique" but very few have the capacity to understand and develop exquisite "taste" and he most certainly has the best sense of what tastes good. In today's day and age of the celebrity "chef" who's little more than a name pasted on a corporate restaurant, Jacques Pepin represents what real cooking is all about - choosing the best ingredients, knowing how to prepare them properly and then transforming them into a symphony of flavors. Watching him cook never fails to make my mouth water.
Adam (NYC)
Chef Pepin is a cultural treasure.

My 1976 first edition of his iconic volume, La Technique -- the first cookbook i ever bought (I was 23), in which he taught me how to hold a knife, remains at the top of my desert island books list and his recipe for stuffed flank steak -- from the same volume -- modified and elaborated over 40 years remains on my list of "Hold my beer and watch this!" list of recipes when I want to WOW guests.

He's one of those rare people in any field about who one can say, everything they touch becomes delicious.

Thank you for this article. I savored every word, and then saved it to favorites to consume again in the future.
Debra Jay (Grosse Pointe, Michigan)
Thank you for this culinary experience of memory. Reading it made it so clear how many of my warmest memories are tied to the kitchen, the dining table, washing dishes with aunts. While these remain alive in my mind, so many other memories have dimmed or slipped into obscurity.
BMR (Michigan)
Thank you for the wonderful article. I tasted the foods mentioned and savored both them and the memories of my grandmother.
john bluthardt (long beach, ca)
Wow !!! J.P. can turn a phrase as well as a grilled chop. He makes me think of
my father who was a rugged pipefitter...by day. By night and weekends and
holidays he would forever be cooking in our very small apartment kitchen and
my mother, my brother and I would consume and always want more. I can still
sense the wonderful veggies w/his creamy sauces, the New England chowders
and so much more. Jacques is so right. We can remember and rejoice in these wonderful memories of a happy time. Thanks Jacques for the memories.
as davis (chicago)
A magnificent essay which is touching on so many levels. my wife and I read it this morning and cried.
mary parish (nh)
Inspiring! You just shared with us a beautifully prepared meal of rich memories. I will savor the flavors for a long time.
Roslyn Kaye (Shushan, NY)
I never write comments to the NY Times or anywhere else, but Jacques Pepin is the loveliest man and the best cooking teacher ever. He loves food and loves the people who will enjoy his food. I, too, wish I could clone him. His wife and family are lucky indeed. Happy Birthday Jacques.
Montag (Milwaukie OR)
I've saved this piece, to savor from time to time.
Gerry G (East Hampton, NY)
The most inspirational of all the chefs.
DHO (Scottsdale AZ)
Delightful musings of the incomparable Jacques Pepin...impish, clever, always charming and a true professional. He was frequently present at our gatherings of the IACP, but I don't recall if he was a member in those early days of chasing the dream of more awareness by Americans of the finer points of cuisine - that it's more than just big servings. Jacques Pepin could actually cajole American males into eating quiche! And his garde manger tricks were legendary in the industry.
Riley (NY)
God bless you Mr. Pepin.
Betty Sherman (Humboldt County, California)
Jacques came to my small town of Eureka, California decades ago and gave classes to a group of us who were interested. He was an inspiring teacher. He was easy to be with, warm and funny. In the evening we cooked him a potluck supper of Mexican food because he craved it and at that time he could not get it in Conneticut. He was a gracious guest as well as a generous teacher.
Those of us who took his classes were happy cooks for the rest of our lives!
Happy Birthday mom ami!
Meems (Sosua, Dominican Republic)
Can I marry him? Wait. He's already married. Wait. Can I clone him?
Marcus (NJ)
The sign of a true professional is the way he or she handles hot food.In years Jacques hands have turned into a pair of SS tongs
McCutchen Anderson (Westport, NY)
Bravo! I learned to cook by working through "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" (a wedding present from Julia Child, a friend of my wife's parents). What strikes me most about her and Mr. Pepin's approach to the food is the importance of enjoying food as part of something larger. My wife of 47 years and I enjoy lovingly prepared dinners every night, served with as much flair as I can manage, along with glasses of wine in front of the fire, looking out at mountain views or swirling snow. That ritual is a significant part of our marriage. Mr. Pepin, should you ever find yourself in Westport, N Y on Lake Champlain, look me up and join us for dinner! Thanks
Mebster (USA)
What a lovely gift from a wonderful teacher who has taught me so much about preparing and enjoying food. I will clip this and keep it in my recipe file.
Dan Moerman (Superior Township, MI)
One of the finest videos on YouTube is one of Jacques Pepin making an omelet. He compares an American (e,g, overcooked!) omelette to a fresh light French omelet. I've been using that technique for years and it is still terrific.
Victoria Lee Travis (Denver)
Based on your recommendation, I looked up the video and made the french omelette this morning....oh my. Despite being a fan of Julia's, I was never quite understanding how to make one via Mastering the Art....the video was so helpful and the product divine. Thank you for your recommendation!

Victoria
Marilyn (France)
Thank you for this lovely essay!
maryea (<br/>)
I followed Jacquese Pepin's recipe and photos for stuffed flank steak yesterday. It's found in "Complete Techniques," a book anyone who loves Jacques might want to own. So I was already thinking about him. Thanks.
Sharon Blount (Hamtramck Michigan)
I am with Jacques. Both of my grandparents had farms. One of my fondest memories is milk straight from the udder, warm and frothy in a tin mug! This was no easy feat counting that I had 16 near age cousins to fend off for this honor. Happy holidays all. Thanks for sharing Jacques. His cooking show airs a marathon on PBS this weekend and I for one can't wait.
Robert D. Noyes (Oregon)
I've lived in France and visited. It is a place apart. It is where people are enjoying a meal, remembering a meal or planning a meal. Bless M. Pépin's divine memories.
j108 (NYC)
Dear Jacques, I've cooked many of the dishes you make so effortlessly on your TV shows. Takes me longer and I'm not as smooth as you are with the knife, but it's always fun. I usually make believe I'm on camera like you and then I'll explain why I'm cutting the carrot this way or stirring the sauce that way. When I put the food on the plates or serving dishes, I remember how you do it and it makes me smile. One of my favorite things is watching you cut onions. I could watch you do that all day. Thank you, Jacques, for sharing your love of food, cooking and life with all of us. All the best.
Mike (<br/>)
Jacques Pepin is my favorite chef after Julia Child.
He was President de Gaulle's chef, and turned down President and Mrs. Kennedy's request for the same privilege.
It was years later that I learned why I loved Howard Johnson's restaurants so much. Mr. Pepin had been hired as head chef over the entire chain, ensuring early success.
Wordsworth from Wadsworth (<br/>)
What a great guy. To me, Chef Pépin makes peasant food with an elegant twist. Cosmopolitan, sophisticated, and down-to-earth out of necessity. He is France's greatest gift to America after the Statue of Liberty.

Jacques Pépin already has been given the Légion d'honneur. He deserves something like a Kennedy Center Honor for being a gastronomic artist on television.
Karini (MA)
Beautiful, from my favorite and the best. Thank you, especially for the mention of two bottles, no holds barred now!
artmama (San Diego)
Read Jacques Pepein's memoir. It is really great!
Tuvw Xyz (Evanston, Illinois)
Jacques Pépin deserves a US decoration, comparable to la Légion d'Honneur (if there is such a one), for his contribution to gastronomy in this country.
May his culinary heritage last forever!
Jack (<br/>)
Thank God for Jacques Pepin!
Joe (<br/>)
Chef Pepin is a man who probably would have been brilliant at whatever vocation he decided to pursue: Architect, Doctor, Attorney, Actor, College Professor or Marriage Counselor. Thank god, he chose chef and shared his skills and generous heart to we who passionately labor in our humble home kitchens.

His books and PBS videos are instructive, inspirational, and just plain fun. I never tire of reading or watching them over and over again.

Bravo Chef Jacques!
VKG (Upstate NY)
I always enjoyed watching Jacques Pépin because he reminded me of the countless chefs and other cuisine professionals whom I met during two decades of yearly trips to France. There is a reason why the French have earned their reputation as the best in the world when it comes to food preparation, food presentation, and the important place of food in culture and patrimony. I'm reminded of a dinner that my husband and I had the pleasure of enjoying in a chef-owned restaurant in the Dordogne region of southwest France. I ordered cassoulet. As the waiter presented my meal in a beautiful Le Creuset casserole dish, he said to me, " This is a very important dish in our culture." That summarized for me the way the French regard la cuisine. Félicitations, M Pépin.
Victoria Lee Travis (Denver)
In the mid 1980s Jacques Pepin graciously agreed to do a cooking demonstration in Denver to raise money for heart research at the University of Colorado Medical School. He was generous with his time and spirit. It was my first time organizing such a program. Working with him was a delight and a privilege. Happy Birthday to a very special soul.
Mark Lipshutz (Philadelphia, PA)
People tell me I'm a pretty good cook, although I've never taken a lesson. Or have I? So often, when asked where I learned to make some dish or carry out some technique, I simply say, truthfully, "I learned that from Jacques Pépin.

Recently, I wanted to make a gluten-free bread and what came to mind was the oatmeal skillet bread from his first book, "Everyday Cooking with Jacques Pépin". Even three decades later the knowledge he imparted sticks with me and serves me well for dining and for living.

Vive Monsieur Pépin.
CMuir (NYC)
I am reminded of the film "Babette's Feast" and the majority of people I meet who believe that film to be merely a foody movie. The spiritual component of meals -- the connection with nature -- the preparation and subsequent sharing --comes through like rays of sunshine through the clouds. Merci
Hector Samkow (Oregon)
Pepin is the best teaching cook on TV.

(Find his videos on the web via TV station KQED).
Bob (Portland, Maine)
For those of you who loved this short piece as much as I did, I would heartily recommend reading his book, The Apprentice. Of course, I have a feeling many of you have already done so.
pwb (Maryland)
Jacques autobiography is one of the best biography's of any kind - the rich imagery he shares here (and there) is a gift.
Salvatore Monella (NYC)
To see Mr Pepin and his granddaughter cook together brings true joy to my heart. That little girl has it! I think she will be the anointed on,e to carry on her Grandfathers wonderful way with words and food. I can tell, she's a natural.
lh (toronto)
Well, I just finished M. Pepin's book, The Apprentice. I have watched him for years on PBS with and without Julia Child and he is always charming, lovely and a dream. What a kind man he seems to be. How lucky his family is to have him and how lucky we all have been to share a little bit of him for all these years.
Bruce Stalowicz (Stamford, CT)
I lived on the East Shore for eight years (Madison and Guilford.) I enjoyed going shell fishing and buying lobsters pulled out two hours before I bought them. I would buy fresh tuna and grill the steaks. There was a place in Branford that sold fresh and dried herbs.
I enjoy cooking and I have enjoyed watching you on Create.com
Sorry to see you are retiring, but I learned a lot and wish you the best.
As Julia would say, Bon Appetit.
PlayOn (Iowa)
this is written by a person who knows how to live.
Judy (Toronto)
I always watch Jacques' programs and take pleasure in his celebration of food, wine and cooking. He makes it all seem doable by amateur cooks like me. He is a man who truly enjoys everything life has to offer and makes his enthusiasm infectious: his patience with his granddaughter, his teasing relationship with Jean-Claude, his love for his wife and his family, and so much more.

Something not yet mentioned by posters here is his wonderful artwork. His drawings and paintings in the bright colours of the Mediterranean are filled with joy and reminiscent of Chagall to me.

Merci Jacques. Bon anniversaire. Bon chance et sante. Bisous pour vous.
acesfull2 (los angeles)
Yes, it's nice to remember the good things about what Jacques has done. Sadly, he committed, for me, what is an unforgivable deed. He sold his, at the time, good name, to Oceania Cruises. He obviously had no oversight over the food as it was not bad but terrible and had no relation at all to good no less fine cooking. To Wit: Very fatty veal chops. The ship's chef said this was the quality he was allowed to buy and that he would make 2 or 3 chops and get rid of the fat. Mouth watering no. Udon noodles that were thin spaghetti. Cassoulet without preserved duck or white beans. It is safe to say that menus were full of names not the food they depict. I wrote Pepin at the time. 2 to 3 years ago, was not favored with a reply. So, to ennoble this man for his food or moral integrity falls a bit cold on me..
Hector Samkow (Oregon)
Nobody's perfect.
AB (Chicago, IL)
Thank you, thank you , thank you! Nothing makes me happier than reading something that I have thought but have never had the talent to write. Nothing makes me feel closer to my family, no matter the distances between us, then imagining the smell of my mother's doro wot slowly making its way from the kitchen.
SK (CA)
Jacques Pepin is simply irreplaceable!!
joie (michigan)
I rarely use recipes but I do love to read about chefs like M. Pepin's approach to food, philosophies about eating for and with pleasure and most importantly to cook with passion and share meals with those you love.

if you have great respect for like food and wine (or anything for that matter) you don't abuse them.
Mangia buono (Carlisle, MA)
Reading this article brought tears to my eyes. Jacque Pepin represents all that is good and right about French food, cooking and culture. We can find these same strong bonds of food, cooking and family in other countries and cultures but nobody articulates, or indeed embodies them, in the unique, welcoming and thoroughly engaging style as Jacques. How fortunate we are that he came to America - Happy 80th and good health for many more years!
D. H. (Philadelpihia, PA)
JACQUES PEPIN feels like a good friend to me. His emotions and feelings are all interwoven with his love of cooking and of people. I especially enjoyed watching him with Julia Child on their conjoint cooking show, where he always touched her arm or held her hand when they were speaking. She was a beloved friend first and foremost, who also happened to be a great cook. Each in their way helped us in America to awaken to the sensuality and emotional attachments that accompany the food that sustains us. Here in the US it used to be that we ate to live. If there were a time when America was a food desert it was in the 50s. Then Julie came onto the scene, seducing us into the kitchen where we learned at her side how to master the art of French cooking. Jacques worked more behind the scenes then, consulting for Howard Johnson's restaurants. But eventually he moved back to his roots with his French training and entered the world of haute cuisine in the US. I find Jacques's shows suffused with a sensuality that is quintessentially French, where he touches, inspects, smells and tastes the food during the cooking process. And watches food move around when it needs to. Our most powerful memories have to do with our sense of taste and smell, which are the vehicles that help us to begin the lifelong process of forming loving attachments to family and friends. So, Jacques, mon ami, I wish you, on your 80th birthday, many more years of health, happiness, peace and prosperity.
de Rigueur (here today)
Reading this enchanting set of memories was like sitting at a table in a warm room waiting for the aromas emanating from the kitchen to arrive at my plate, and the wonderful anticipation of a pleasurable satiety. Sadly, my mother could not cook for all the French shows she watched, so for me the memory is of the desire, or of the longing, which stays with me to this day.

M. Pepin just helped illuminate me in less than an hour of reading; I think I need to buy his books!
bud (portland)
the best thing about it is its so real and not propped up by all the pretense and goo gaw.
Just real food made from the real and generous love of cooking and eating.
Ryan Bingham (Up there)
I'm only capable of mac and cheese, but I watch his show every week.
SquareState (Colorado)
What I learned from watching his TV shows and appearances is that we're all capable of making wonderful food. We'll never have his facility with a knife and it may take us longer, but we can have wonderful meals every day that we have the time. Now that I'm retired, I always have the time. I particularly liked his two series on Fast Food My Way, where he encouraged us to use our markets as our sous chefs - making great food possible even when time is at a premium. Nevertheless, I treasure the shows when he makes traditional dishes and especially his demonstrations of The Technique, which I endeavor to emulate every day.
Muddlerminnow (Chicago)
Tres bon, my wife and I enjoy the same dinnertime ritual, I just hope my pancreas is as forgiving at Mr. Pepin's.
Bay Area HipHop (San Francisco, CA)
I had the great fortune of meeting Mr. Pepin at the Sur La Table at Pike Place market several years ago. It was so great to chat, albeit briefly, about food and cooking. He represents a unique blend of the last of the French apprentices merged with modern American tastes. I hope he continues to write and cook for many more years!
Anna (New York,NY)
Bravo,Jacques....I feel the same way about the memories of past food experiences....forever...
Both sides of the fence (Philadelphia, PA)
Reading this article made me feel as if I was listening to my French grandfather, whom I never met. He was a pastry chef and died before I was born.

Thank you for such a visual feast of words as I have fond memories of the markets in the south of France, also.
amy (wallingford, ct)
Merci Mille Fois! a great read

I recall watching Monsiuer Pepin & Ms Julia Childs on PBS when i was little...they made a huge impact on me...one chilly spring day as I was strolling along Hammonasset Beach I encountered Jacques..I muttered a shy hello to him and he was kind enough to let me & my young son pet his darling doggy. My mind immediately raced to the confines of his kitchen, and I daydreamed for a moment about following him home & sharing a meal :) Every mothers day since then our tradition has been to sit on hammonasset and have a picnic, complete with baguette, brie, fresh fruit, apricat preserves, and good chocolate...and of course wine for the adults...this is my childrens favorite tradition and mine as well, Merci Jacques, a bientot xo
Maureen (Madison, WI)
Jacques Pepin introduced me to the love of the everyday ritual of meals. His shows on PBS are accessible and infused with his joy and humor. I love it in every show when he takes his glass of wine, or has to taste the brandy to make sure it's good before he uses it in a dish. Because of him I attempted a Chocolate Paris-Brest Cake the morning of my graduation from my master's program for my graduation party--he made it look so easy, I had the brazen confidence of a beginner! It didn't work, but that didn't dampen my enthusiasm for his recipes and for him!
MK (Lancaster)
Beautiful thoughts, beautiful memories, beautifully written. Thank you.
Bix (Clinton, NJ)
I had the fortune of having assisted Jacques several times in the '90s for events with French Culinary Institute in NYC and later working with Jean-Claude after he had sold his successful catering business and was just "helping out". These two men shaped several generations of culinary adventurers and am so happy to see that they are still on that same path.

To Jacque - sorry the Lobster Soufflé collapsed at the Pierre Hotel. I should have pulled it sooner. Sante!
Ellen (New York City)
His autobiography was an extended paean to his family, to France and to cooking. This shorter piece should make everyone want to rush out and read the whole story. There is no one like Jacques Pepin, who loves family and food in equal measure and manages to transmit those loves even across the TV screen. Happy Birthday, Jacques! Bonne Anniversaire! And Happy Cooking!
Jim (France)
I owe a lot to Monsieur Pépin, for teaching me the love of everyday cooking. It's a pleasure that only increases as I get older, and I must admit that my French partner and I can sometimes go through two bottles of good wine in an evening...
Descarado (Las Vegas)
Thank you for the great article Mr. Pepin. Some take your graceful command of your second language for granted, but not I. I have few heroes in this world, but you and Julia will forever be two of my mainstays. You have both enriched my life and fashioned some of my most cherished memories.
Tango (New York NY)
He is a great cook. I have watch him on TV many ,many times . When he is cooking it is always a wonderful time .He makes cooking a fun adventure
Gracie (Hillsborough Nj)
ohhhhh, This was a terrific read! Nothing fancy, just peas, bread and jams. Pepin makes you unafraid to get in the kitchen and cook. Yes, I have the same standard family recopies that we have been eating since I was a small child. This is what we run to, the stews, sausage and peppers, the lentil soups. I have watched Pepin on TV since I was a child. We are so lucky to have him living on our shores!
Paul DeVries (Michigan)
What a marvelous article. This article is one of the reasons we are francophiles and why we sit every night at dinner and celebrate our life together. Thanks Msr Pepin for this wonderful memory.
janie machiz (ghent ny)
I've cooked from your books the past 20 years, their is no one better! Thank you.
Norman Van Aken (Miami, Fl.)
It would be so great to have this recorded by Chef Pépin and played for School Children across America like we do political things. Maybe the brilliant yet gentle spark of the life he describes so well will animate them to live their lives to the fullest and know the importance of diversely alive food markets, the joys of a life considered in full and the powers of foods "cooked with love".
Thomas (Branford, Florida)
I watched Pepin on television once with Julia Child. He demonstrated a childhood dish his mother would make. Bread stuffed with fish with an intoxicating garlic, butter, dill and Pernod sauce binding it together. I have made it a few times to raves from guests. Merci, Monsieur Pepin
Donna (<br/>)
I have absolutely enjoyed traveling along memory lane with you. Thank you for this lovely article.
jasmine (<br/>)
This is not only a great cook, but a great soul.
gale (<br/>)
Mr Pepin writes as well as he cooks and teaches. He has been a great gift to all of us who love to eat well at home.
David (<br/>)
Jacques Pepin is an American treasure!
famdoc (New York, NY)
Merci, Monsieur Pepin!