Jane Smiley’s Horse Country

Oct 18, 2015 · 28 comments
greg abbey (brooklyn)
How lovely! Such beautiful imagery!
EXCEPT that horses are sentient beings that are tortured (and that's no exaggeration,. e.g., bits, spurs, whips, crops, saddles - mostly ill fitting -- isolation, poor diets, painful slaughter, and the list goes on and on and on and on) by their slavery masquerading as so-called equestrian "sport." But what do their lives mean -- they can't speak, they don't vote, they have no money -- to humans who dominate them for their own pleasure, greed and vanity?
partlycloudy (methingham county)
I went to college in VA. We had horseback riding with Theodora Spitzer as part of our P.E. courses and having ridden since I was 6 months old, and having owned horses since I was 10 yoa, I rode in VA. It was wonderful. I still own horses. And am moving to Aiken because I can now afford it. Still cannot afford Charlottesville VA, but can afford a place right on Hitchcock Woods. The next best thing to riding in VA.
Helen (Nebraska)
This is a lovely article especially for those who can only dream of such a trip. I love Jane Smiley's books, especially "Horse Heaven". Thank you Jane for transporting me on this fall Sunday.
Chris Kule (Tunkhannock, PA)
Be sure to use White's Ferry when crossing the Potomac.
CPR (Tuxedo, NY)
There is so much more to the horse world of northern Virginia and Maryland than this article suggests..... Surprisingly, there's a lot of western riding, perhaps a vestige of the large tract of land operated by the King Ranch for many years. A number of barns specialize in Reining (the only made-in-America sport presented in the World Equestrian Games and other Federational Equestre Internationale competition. I ride at Nova Reiners in Goldvein, VA, one of these facilities. In addition to opportunities for the "1 percent" in the horse world, there are wonderful opportunities for those of us who do not belong to the multi-million-dollar set to enjoy trail rides through Civil War battlefields or participate in regional or local competitions at Manassas' Frying Pan Park, which also has a petting area and lots of seasonal activities (near Dulles Airport). There are also tremendous opportunities for kids, including 4-H and Pony Club. What's that old saying? Give your child a horse and he/she won't have money for drugs or time to get into trouble!
Peggy Conroy (west chazy, NY)
Wow, this story really makes me miss Maryland and Virginia. Great memories of the Potomac Horse Center and old Al-Marah arabian farm propertyv on the beltway exit where I had my introduction to classical dressage in the '70's with Col Bengt Ljungquist, a wonderful person, excellent teacher with little nonsense. Racing was a big part of the scene with no better job available than getting youngsters ready for the track.
Last time I was there the farms all gone to housing, streets, destruction of farms and green corridors for miles away from the perimeter of the beltway. Sad.
db (Glastonbury, CT)
The trot is a two-beat gait, not four.
Your Average Showgoer (The High Desert)
What a lovely article. Thank you for sharing true beauty with your sensory words. Whereas home is now in NM, I periodically yearn to return to Purcellville which was home (and a sanctuary) for nine years. Reading, I figuratively saw and heard the hunts you described... and smiled. I understand and appreciate your affinity with that part of our country.
stormy (raleigh)
Virginia, western Maryland and neighboring parts of Pennsylvania have been the soul of English riding and foxhunting in America. This has been recorded and advanced by, for example, the work of Joseph E Thomas "Hounds and Hunting Through the Ages," a true masterpiece of writing and history. The original settlers were English and Scots whose history and culture were tied to horses and horsemanship. Now the demographics are changing. One can see culture changing in western Virginia as urbanites arrive oozing out of D.C. with their mysterious and incredible money and no connection to the region's traditions. Horse country is moving.
Palladia (Waynesburg, PA)
Western Maryland? I'm from Cumberland, and I don't remember any foxhunting there. Perhaps you mean eastern Maryland?
Sue Laidlaw (Minnesota)
Nice story of the ideal horse lovers dream. I would love this.
The next should be a tour of Auction Kill Pens where a lot of these lovely expensive horses end up after show time and passed down thru a chain of not so lovely owners. A racing owner who dumps straight to slaughter. Horses being sold for meat, trucked to a horrific slaughter. There is responsibility and compassion that is owed all horses and it is sorely missing.
And about visiting our mustangs out west, the BLM is doing a fine job of removing them so you better go look soon. The mining, oil interests, and welfare ranchers want them gone. Get the SAFE act 1942 passed.
Greg (Hunt country VA)
As a fox hunter myself, on a former track horse (an off the track Thoroughbred), your comment is both uninformed and offensive. Although the pens you describe certainly exist, they are as repulsive to our community as they are to you. So your comment belongs elsewhere - not here. Many fine field hunters, like those described by Ms Smiley, enjoy long healthy careers after their track days.
Helen (Nebraska)
Sue,

Thank you for FINALLY bringing up a strong dose of the real dark side of horses lives as products here in the US. There certainly doesn't seem to be near enough action to stop the slaughter and hardly anyone ever talks about it. Not the Mustangs, or the show horses that are tossed out for dead.

We need more awareness, shelters, and nationwide legislation banning slaughter for meat and responsibility from owners to do right by these most gentle beautiful God's creation.
marymary (DC)
This struck just the right note for the middle of October -- instead of leaf peeping, one could be horsing around. Worth marking the calendar.
Steve Austin (Hopkinsville KY)
Ocala and Marion County in Florida makes up with numbers what it lacks in history. It is a major thoroughbred center with 600 thoroughbred farms that have produced 45 national champions, 6 Kentucky Derby winners, 20 Breeders’ Cup champions and 6 Horses of the Year.

As far as where to go to experience what our writer found, I am sure they are there somewhere, probably something to do with football.
Maryland mom (<br/>)
If you are in DC, don't miss a visit to Meadowbrook Stables right in Rock Creek Park. It is a beautiful, historic barn with lots of ponies and horses. Four big rings, lit for those fall nights that get dark so early. It is open to the public for visits!
disenchanted (san francisco)
I'd heard that Meadowbrook is still in operation. Good news. I lived nearby as a kid in the 50s and 60s, and rode there occasionally. Mainly, though, I rode in Potomac, when it was still horse country and not a suburb. I never had my own horse, despite many years of desperate longing and parent-badgering, but was thoroughly in love with all things horse and rode as much as I could at stables open to the public. Thank you, Jane Smiley, for bringing back sweet memories of Maryland horse country and the wonderful horses that populate it. All the best to you and your four friends.
Maryland mom (<br/>)
I should have noted in my previous comment that Meadowbrook Stables is actually in Maryland -- Silver Spring -- but very close to DC line.
Rebecca (Cambridge, MA)
While in Middleburg, you may want to drive a few miles further west and visit Historic Long Branch Plantation. http://www.visitlongbranch.org And, if you do, say hello to my retired rescued racehorse Missy.
M.L. farmer (Sullivan County, N.Y.)
Jane Smiley, I read and very much enjoy your books.
Next time you are East please go to Unionville PA area - especially West
Marlborough township. It is indeed horse-country!!
I grew up hunting with Mr. Stewart's Cheshire Foxhounds, living nearby and
hacking to the close by meets.
Mary Lewis
C.Z.X. (East Coast)
Amen.
Southern Chester County sends you greetings, Mary. I was secretly glad she didn't mention it - no sense in ruining a good thing.
Rachida (MD)
Blooded and inbred animals who must be pampered and forever consigned to a heated barn with constant vet checks paid by affected humans who have no idea of the real horse ...

Meanwhile, down the road apiece from where Smiley knows little of actual horse countries, there are the islands of Chincoteague and Assateague, both home to bands of wild ponies, ponies whose DNA is sturdier and far healthier then her pampered pets.

And traveling west from the mid-Atlantic seacoast, across the continental divide is the real horse country with its bands of mustangs running free, whose genes are long strands of dna coded from horses of the Spanish who arrived to decimate the human bands of indigenes, and left their horses behind. In this group are most likely the bloodlines of the Barbary-Andalusian horses of North Africa.
stormy (raleigh)
Some "wild horses" do have a lot of Spanish blood in them, but they are not wild horses, there is no such thing and their DNA is no sturdier than other breeds. Modern domestic horses are not consigned to a heated barn, they prefer to be outside and are as fit and tough as ever -- heated barns are for the convenience of weekend riders.
Helen (Nebraska)
I have glimpsed pictures of these wild beauties and they are gorgeous! Long live the wild ponies!
C.Z.X. (East Coast)
Carmel Valley, horse country? Those dusty little "ranches"? And how do you even feed your horses there with the droughts?

Carmel Valley has everything going for it but nothing to do with the great pastures of equine ground-zero. Big thanks, though, to Jane Smiley for bringing a lovely NYT "Equestrian Alert" to my inbox this morning.
Rachida (MD)
Although technically not Carmel, I am reminded of the great Seabiscuit and even California Chrome... and equestrian refers to anyone or anyrhing that can sit astride a horse-any horse!
Dianna (<br/>)
Oh, east coast snobbery. Thank you, Jane, for settling in God's country. A wise choice. And thanks for the lovely article. Love your writing. And I'm not a horsey person. Never met one that liked me. They tried to scrap me off by going under low slung branches of trees. Pity. My love of animals would have made me a good horse person but they never treated me right.

Horses are beautiful. Have many horses living in my hutch in lieu of dishes. Love them. Thanks, again.
Palladia (Waynesburg, PA)
There is a saying: "It's always the rider; it's never the horse." Before taking a horse where there are "low slung branches of trees," it's a good idea to learn how to ride well enough to avoid that happening.