36 Hours in Buenos Aires

Oct 11, 2015 · 19 comments
Ashley Hejsan (Vancouver)
I´d like to add the Historic cafes Tour me and my husband took in April 2016. We visited 6 historic cafes of Buenos Aires. We loved the fileteado artwork, the vaulted ceilings, the gloriously beat-up furniture, the waiters in bowties, the checkerboard floors. Everything made for a perfect café environment. Some of the cafés were breathing and living museums.
We fell in love with Tortoni Cafe and especially with the sculpted trio in the corner. Over the years such talented and famous people sat right there in this same chair comfortably in literary discussion over their coffee. At the end of the tour we visited the biggest book shop in Latin America which has a Cafe inside and you can take a book and read it, taking a sweet coffe, and then return the book, for free !
This book shop used to be a huge theatre, really amazing. The tour company is Kangoo Tours: www.kangootours.wix.com/tours .I highly recommend this tour
Ricardo (Buenos Aires)
Tango, beef, Malba. It's amazing how reiteratively cliche you can be speaking of one of the most rich, cultural diversity and living city in the world. Absolutely sad and disappointed-
Michael (Tristate)
I don't understand why 36 hours series always introduces extremely expensive restaurants (by the local standard). People can easily find expensive, good restaurants. Tasting menu for two for more than $100 in Argentina is what you recommend amongst all other inexpensive quality restaurants?
Why don't you recommend restaurants where middle class locals would go for a quality, local meal at local price? That's the kind of information that is hard to come around online.
Richard Huber (New York)
VERY strange selection of points of interest & focus on a somewhat remote part of the city.

Buenos Aires is indeed a very European feeling city. Sorry, there weren't many native Americans here when the Spanish arrived & even fewer as they established the colony. But how about something on the incredible opera house the Colon, La Recoleta, the Museo Fernadez Blanco & the area around Congreso? What about Puerto Madero & all the fabulous restaurants around La Recoleta & Barrio Norte? Or the Costanera? The theater life with over 50 active theaters? Even La Boca, perhaps a bit touristy, but still interesting.

In short I felt very disappointed by this article.
ALBERTO TRAJTENBERG (BUENOS AIRES)
I have on file almost all of your 36 hours in..... since 2002/2003. They were very useful for me. But this week I read the one about Buenos Aires, my city and with surprise I see you have selected one of the worst eateries I ever visited.
This unnameable place, reviewed by you under 4. Modern Argentina | 10:30 p.m., offers average meals and terrible service, particularly when the owner is who approaches your table. I always trusted your 36 hours in... but from now on, after that choice you made in Buenos Aires, where there are really excellent restaurants, between them the others in your present 36 hours, I will doubt of what you place in future articles.
CRR (Argentina)
It's a shame that we have so much insecurity and such a bad government.
Brian (New York, NY)
The focus of this piece, like so many of the Times's 36 Hours features, is on restaurants and bars. For me, the real interest in BA involves its architecture, neighborhoods and rich and tumultuous history.

While parts of BA suggest the "Paris of South America," as the cliche goes, the city has also seen better days. Its sidewalks are crumbling and sections of downtown feel grimy and neglected. That said, a visit to the Recoleta Cemetery, Teatro Colon, Plaza San Martin, and the San Telmo Market show the great architectural and cultural legacy of the city. Keep in mind too that, unlike Europe, English is not that widely spoken there, though you can certainly get by with a few Spanish survival phrases. Definitely go and enjoy!
Jon Hurley (Buenos Aires)
BsAs is an amazing city but there's plenty to do nearby if you like the outdoors. Check out www.theoutdoorvibe.com for our outdoor activity trips in Argentina including trekking, horse riding, wing shooting and fishing.
Luigi (Atlanta, GA)
Thanks NYTimes for this complete information about Buenos Aires! I love this city, one of my favorite capitals of the world. Amazing cuisine and restaurants, so many shows, musicals, plays, concerts, museums with beautiful people and yes, the most european city in Latin America!
Jim (Canada)
I had a great time in Buenos Aires. Prices have gone up but still reasonable in US Dollars "blue rate" Got in touch with Pedro Werberg a wonderful,informative tour guide. who also showed me around this fabulous place
Meliza Nolasco (Guadalajara, JAL.)
I'm lucky of to found this article because in two weeks I will have a presentation about Buenos Aires. I was fascinated with the city but now I know more of this great city! I hope one day to know and to do the things that mention in the article.
The first thing that I will do without doubt is to visit MALBA, because I love Firda Kahlo and the first moment that I knowed that some works of her was in here I wanted to visit and to know how her works appreciated abroad.
Each thing that the article mentioned that you should do when you visit Buenos Aires, Argentina I think that is perfect because incluiding the things more representative and importants for the porteños. In this article furthemore of to know great to places to visit, you too learn about the lifestyle in Buenos Aires.
JXG (Athens, GA)
Feels like you are in Europe? No, but Argentinians just keep hoping so verbally in their denial of their Native American or Amerindian heritage. This heritage is obvious visually. And the Spanish colonial heritage in the architecture is obvious as well.
Thierry Cartier (Ile de la Cite)
OK but it felt like the most interesting parts of Spain and Italy had been transported to Argentina, not to mention the German sliver which keeps things working. There is no discernible Amerindian heritage anywhere as they were hunted (literally) to extinction I've been told.
Lisandro (SAN NICOLAS)
First of all, Spanish colonial architecture not implies natives, actually creoles (spaniards born in america). Second of all, there is really few colonial architecture in Buenos Aires, apart from churches and exeptions. You may be confuse by the italic architecture, which is not spanish.
Third, and last, we dont deny native american at all, but argentina culture is predominantely european with few adopted native costumes (adopted by europeans). Is an immigrant country that receive 8 million europeans, so yes, we tend to say we come from Europe, we identify ourselves as it, doesnt mean a castizo is going to deny their indigenous past, but probably he dont know anything about it, and his cultural base is argentinian, which come from Europe mostly.
JXG (Athens, GA)
You just proved my point. First of all, the indigenous population disappeared quickly in the first European settlements: Cuba and Puerto Rico. And those islands do not deny their indigenous heritage. They are proud of it. Areas of Italy, and the Netherlands and Austria as well, were part of the Spanish Empire, hence the influences. Moreover, Spain and Italy, for example, are not totally European since Arabs moved to these areas in the early Middle Ages. Also, Italians, Germans, French, and British migrants moved to other areas of Latin American as well, not mainly Argentina. Think Uruguay and Brazil, even Cuba and Puerto Rico. So, embrace your heritage and accept reality. Argentina is Latin America, not Europe.
SkipJones (Austin)
Had an amazing time at the Soho Miravida hotel several years ago - was in SOHO Palermo. The owner was a Canadian banker. He and his staff had some of the greatest restaurant recommendations that I ever experienced anywhere in the world.
winde.kind (Cordoba)
One must be blinded by spring, romantic love or drugs to see this city that way in 2015!
Argentina en el exterior (New York)
Too bad the governments and the insecurity; that's why I'm not coming back to my dear Buenos Aires.

Lastima los gobiernos y la inseguridad, por eso no vuelvo a mi Buenos Aires querido.
Christopher (Carpenter)
Great! Loved it. I've lived here almost 11 years, and learned several great new places. Thanks. (If only the Foreign Desk at NYT's would do similar justice to their #Nisman 'desastre'.) Gracias, de nuevo