Clarification: Fayet Walking Stick shop shown at 3:00 in the video is officially Galerie Fayet. Still at 34 Passage Jouffroy. It is recommended for seeing interesting antiques and creative canes like the walking stick which conceals a playable violin (on display in the front window last week). Ask about how they provided canes for the TV show House.
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This is SUCH a well, written guide with some fantastic tips - a mixture of the 'must-do' touristy things and real Parisian ideas too. Honestly, I've lived in Paris for 6 years of my live, used to write a Paris blog and I've never come across such an well put together group of ideas. Anyone visiting, follow this guide and you'll have a great time!
Thanks for sharing.
Ellie
Thanks for sharing.
Ellie
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@Ellie Swinton Going to Paris for first time in October, do you have a hotel recommendation, celebrating 40th wedding anniversary. Thanks.
Michael
Loved these suggestions. History of Paris museum contained an awe-striking gold leaf painted room featuring the Queen of Sheba's visit to King Solomon. Enjoyed a delicious cocktail, St. Ginny, at Poulette along with tender steak frites, and teared up at the angelic voices of the singing nuns Saturday night. Purchased an antique, white silk umbrella at Fayet, the shop keeper is adorable, we laughed a lot. Very well done.
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For a second time in a row; the predominate images in this video are way too white, which is hardly reflective of today's Paris multi-ethnic reality, and especially so, since la France had colonies in Africa, the Caribbean, and the South Pacific. In fact, Martinique and Guadeloupe are territories of France in the Caribbean. And yes, the Black tokens portrayed (an afterthought) were noted.
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PARIS is very proud of its history. Parisians are themselves alive with history. They want to be rooted and to know where everything and everyone else is rooted. It is a level of sophistication and a celebration of the senses and of sensuality that we in the US can only aspire to. The Right Bank invites visitors and customers to discover themselves as they discover the unexpected treasures of Paris. Buy a walking stick from the 4th generation of family owners from a historical collection. Taste natural wines--described as peasant wines--to understand where current practices of viticulture and vinification have originated. Look for cuisine and foodstuffs of originality. Paris has survived as a living historical gem. Unlike Venice, which is empty of Venetians, Paris is full of Parisians, born there or adopted by the city, who wish to continue the heritage of the past while exploring the future, all the while embracing multicultural residents and their influences. Paris, la ville lumiere! Paris, the city of lights! Paris, the enlightened city.
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How hard to choose from a plethora of possibilities! A visit to the chocolatier Jacques Genin in the 3rd is sure to please. The boat ride up the Canal St. Martin to Parc de la Villette is also a nice way to spend time. There is a neighborhood, I believe it was in the 20th, with charming gardens and small cottages that will make you wonder if you are in Paris. Paris is for walking and exploring. Choose a neighborhood you aren't familiar with and wander.
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I lived for seven years on the right bank, on the splendid, albeit austere, av. de Bosquet in the 7eme, across from the Champs de Mars and the Ecole Militaire. From my living room window I could see the tower. Living room, bedroom, bath, kitchen - $100 U.S. Dollars a month, and I thought it was overpriced. That was 1960 and I was twenty-five. Happy days....Luv you, miss you, Paris.
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Yes fantastic article I love Paris Happy Sustainability 2015 France
I am French and have been living in Paris for many years. The video makes me smile. The inner districts of the city are a theme park for tourists (French ones included) and wealthy people. I must admit this is the greatest theme park I have ever seen (and i travel often) and even after all those years living in Paris, I cannot help being amazed by the charms of the inner arrondissements. But you will never understand anything about Paris, Parisians or even France if you only go to these places. Around these districts, there is a 7 million people metropolis. This, is Paris.
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Why must every 36 Hours in ______ (fill in city) be about spending money at some bar, restaurant, cafe, antique shop or book store?
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I agree. That is why I included two FREE museums and a wonderful walk FREE along old railroad tracks. I just wish they had been included in the videos...
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Gee I saw info on a couple of museums, churches and a promenade.
Personally, I have to eat once in awhile and like info on restaurants.
As a book lover who spends some $ on antiques too i enjoy the recommendations.
Personally, I have to eat once in awhile and like info on restaurants.
As a book lover who spends some $ on antiques too i enjoy the recommendations.
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I agree. I usually make it about half way through the videos. More interested in things to do and neighborhood feel than what seems like just advertisements for a few businesses.
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After visiting the Square du Vert Gallant, walk past the statue of Henri IV, cross the street and enter straight into Place Dauphine. Built for Henri IV, it's design is largely intact from around 1600. A magical place, especially around twilight and early evening when the lamps come on. Sit on one of the benches and enjoy the ultimate in old-Paris ambience--it's free! At Galerie Vivienne, I also recommend À Priori Thé, a delightful little tearoom for lunch or tea/dessert. Seating available inside or outside, right in the bright passage. And Finally, all Parisophiles know that the Bible of things to do in Paris is Pariscope, the weekly magazine published on Wednesdays. (Get your copy at any news kiosk.) Go to the Classical Concerts section of the magazine; it contains a complete listing of all classical concerts in the city and close suburbs for the week. These concerts are frequently in fantastic venues, like old churches, and charge only a donation for admission (Entrée Libre). Most concerts last about one hour. There are matinée concerts too. I went to a chamber music concert at the Church of St-Merri one evening a few years ago. Unforgetable!
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Craig, Thank you for enriching my knowledge of my adopted city!
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Elaine, you're welcome and thanks for highlighting some great places in your article. May I make one more suggestion? This is a great time of year to spend an hour or so in the Square Jean XXIII, just behind Notre Dame. It's a large park with lots of benches and beautifully shaped trees giving maximum shade. You're likely to see a few street performers there, but they're not intrusive.
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Fantastic article! It really gets under the skin of this glorious city.
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For 2 weeks when I visited my daughter in a UC Berkeley graduate program near Place d'Italie, I managed to visit 48 (Catholic) churches from Versailles to St Deny's, with a video and still camera. Several churches were on a par with Notre Dame, esp. the most historic, St Denys, its many catafalques near the pews, and crypt beneath, tombs of French royalty. The churches of St. Protaeus/St. Gervais opp. Hotel de Ville, of Sainte-Chappelle, of St. Eustache (Les Halles), of St. Leu/St. Gilles nearby, of St. Merry by Pompidou Center, of St. Severin, of St. Sulpice (with obelisk), and the oldest tree in Paris are all within no more than a 1.5-mile radius of Notre Dame (as is the Musee des Moyen Age.) They are art museums of faith, with statuary, paintings, saints' relics, perhaps a bookshop, that tell the history of Paris and its proletarian struggles. During the week many are almost empty, and photo (no flash) and video is usually permitted.
I should add that 5000 persons a day visit the small Chapel of the Sisters of Mercy* at 140 Rue du Bac, opp. Bonne Marche by Rue St Jacques, where a novice nun was directed by the Virgin to commission a "miraculous medal" in 1830. The incorrupt bodies of the nun, and of the Mother Superior who co-founded the religious order with St Vincent de Paul ("the apostle to the poor of Paris") a century or so earlier, are in glass coffins by the altar.
* closed during lunchtime
I should add that 5000 persons a day visit the small Chapel of the Sisters of Mercy* at 140 Rue du Bac, opp. Bonne Marche by Rue St Jacques, where a novice nun was directed by the Virgin to commission a "miraculous medal" in 1830. The incorrupt bodies of the nun, and of the Mother Superior who co-founded the religious order with St Vincent de Paul ("the apostle to the poor of Paris") a century or so earlier, are in glass coffins by the altar.
* closed during lunchtime
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Dear Charles, I'd love to see the video.Best, Elaine
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I have many hours of such videos and many photos. I did the same in Madrid, and out to Toledo, Avila, Segovia (tomb of St. John of he Cross), La Granja, Salamanca, Alba de Tormes (tomb of Teresa of Avila), San Lorenzo Escorial, and Alcala de Henares.
I spend several weeks in Paris at my rented flat every year; have many great friends there, and know it intimately. Also speak the language. I have many "loves" on the Rive Droit, but love to discover new treasures, as this article reveals. I'll be there early November for 17 days, and plan to check these out. My favs on the Right? Oh, the Jeu de Paume, Petit and Grand Palais, Musee Maillol, The Marche President Wilson in the 16th, Bar des Theatres in the 16th, Musee Galliera also in the 16th...I could go on and on. Merci pour ceci!
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Damn...sounds great. Can I come?
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The grave of Jim Morrison is worth a look-see at Pere Lachaise cemetery. It was not very tidy, in summer 2008, and shoe-horned between 3 tired mausoleums. Nearby are the tombs of Gericault, Denon, and a very busy one, Frederic Chopin's. Across from the metro stop there is an impressive Catholic Church, behind a deceptively plain façade, but under a tall spire easily visible.
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And there's the grave of Allen Kardec, the French father of communicating with the dead. Most visited grave at Pere Lachaise. (I write about him in my new book!)
Did not know that, thank you. And I assumed Edith Piaf's grave would be the most-visited there, thanks for updating me. (Chopin's was very busy, with a worker tending the many bouquets of flowers.)
"Chamois cleaning all the windows / thinking thoughts of Edith Piaf's soul / And I hear blue strains of 'no regrets' 'cross the street from cathedral Notre Dame..." - Van Morrison, "St. Dominic's Preview." I visited the neighborhood church of the Little Sparrow in Menilmontant, Notre Dame de la Croix.
Here is a link to an excerpt from a university press book about Francois de Paris, a miracle-working priest from St. Medard Parish ca 1730. The church is by the shops and cafes of La Mouffetard, a fun area (as you know.) Wikipedia has a long entry on Francois de Paris, also. The book covers 18th century Paris religious politics very thoroughly. http://www.romancatholicism.org/jansenism/jansenist-miracles.html
"Chamois cleaning all the windows / thinking thoughts of Edith Piaf's soul / And I hear blue strains of 'no regrets' 'cross the street from cathedral Notre Dame..." - Van Morrison, "St. Dominic's Preview." I visited the neighborhood church of the Little Sparrow in Menilmontant, Notre Dame de la Croix.
Here is a link to an excerpt from a university press book about Francois de Paris, a miracle-working priest from St. Medard Parish ca 1730. The church is by the shops and cafes of La Mouffetard, a fun area (as you know.) Wikipedia has a long entry on Francois de Paris, also. The book covers 18th century Paris religious politics very thoroughly. http://www.romancatholicism.org/jansenism/jansenist-miracles.html
I took a macaron class at La Cusine Paris on the Right Bank. It was fab (learned the secret to making great macarons) and easy to add to your itinerary; class was two hours. Je l'adore!
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Too bad the article and video did not include Parc Monceau. It is a beautiful park with a thriving community and is less tourist trap than many other parts of the right bank.
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There is a very nice church called St Charles Monceau in a leafy neighborhood I visited. Maybe he's the neighborhood saint, as St. Vincent de Paul is around the Gare du Nord neighborhood.
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Great idea for next article!
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We were here in June - even visited the antique toy store! Our #1 tip for mid-price visitors: Cruise the Seine to your heart's content with a 2-day pass on the Batobus for €19.
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Visiting Paris now, we spent today visiting many of the places mentioned and found some lovely spots. Thank you . We did learn that Tombees des Camions no longer exists however, according to a shopkeeper in the same arcade.
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Love this part of the city... I just stayed for a week in the area and find most of these suggestions spot on! Love cafe stern for its design. Also just discovered a cute little cafe / lunch / brunch spot that is around the corner called Mure and has fresh and beautifully made healthy salads. And to get lost in that labyrinth of passages with all the cute antique / stamp / coin stores. Lovely! I love the old and the new about this part of Paris, there is so much to see and eat and drink!
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The Right Bank is where Paris does it's experimentation. If you enjoy architecture, and especially integrating new buildings with old, this is where you want to walk around.
On the border between the First and the Marais, there are quite a few Bistros that specialize in fresh shell fish, at reasonable prices, at least by US standards. Judging by the number of shops specializing in kids and baby clothes, this is where the BCBG, starting a family go to shop. The clothes in them are "a le minute". Bring something trendy home for your little ones.
On the border between the First and the Marais, there are quite a few Bistros that specialize in fresh shell fish, at reasonable prices, at least by US standards. Judging by the number of shops specializing in kids and baby clothes, this is where the BCBG, starting a family go to shop. The clothes in them are "a le minute". Bring something trendy home for your little ones.
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Thank you for some interesting suggestions. It's a shame, though, that the area around Canal Saint-Martin didn't make the cut. It's beautiful and on the rise for food and lodging.
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That's a very nice area, with a small bridge that is raised hydraulically for the barge traffic in the canal, a river walk by a park, a waterfront restaurant, and next to a large Catholic Church.
I had to make choices. So much has been written about this wonderful area that I decided to focus on spots that may have been overlooked. It's why I left out the Marais too...
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"... a good steak frite..." Come on. I love Paris. It's probably my favorite city and I've spent many weeks there. But lord, don't EVER order a steak in France. I'll admit I've had a few good ones. At the Orly Hilton, for example. But in general the steaks are worse than you get in the cheapest steak house in the US. Their just poor cuts of meat, tough and usually undercooked. There are a million things in Paris that are over the top. Steak simply is NOT one of them.
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On this I have to disagree. Great steakhouses, as the meat is trucked in daily and fresh. Try Entrecote with Bernaise. Boucherie Rouliere at St Sulpice is very authentic despite being in the 6th Arr and 4.8 out of 5.0 on Google. I hate to share this info as it may ruin the whole experience being overrun by fat American tourists.
Good steak is always eaten rare to medium rare!
Good steak is always eaten rare to medium rare!
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Who would want to eat at the Boucherie with many fat American tourists when one can now dine there with lots of pompous NY physicians?
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The meat is not under cooked unless you order it that way. By American standards, it may seem a little less tender, and this is due to the fact that steaks served in France are not treated with tenderizers, chemical additives etc. As they do in the U.S.
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I would add the Ave. President Wilson market in the 16th on Saturday mornings. Go hungry and graze.
And of course, The American Cathedral of Paris on the Avenue George V. Beautiful windows, amazing organ, and extraordinary needlepoint, all done by volunteers in the 1950s.
Family service at 11 a.m. on Sundays.
And of course, The American Cathedral of Paris on the Avenue George V. Beautiful windows, amazing organ, and extraordinary needlepoint, all done by volunteers in the 1950s.
Family service at 11 a.m. on Sundays.
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For stained glass windows especially a visit to Sainte-Chappelle (close to Notre Dame cathedral) is worth it, they are enormous and no building in Paris has as many.
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I love the little known jewel the Hotel St. Merry on the Rue de la Verrerie. It is on the right bank very close to the place Carnavalet. If you get room 9, one of the buttresses from an adjoining Catholic church soars through your room.
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Most of the spots touted are in the 1st and 2nd arrondissements, with a few in the 3rd and the 4th. Yet, you recommend hotels in the 9th? Dingue!
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That's because I live in the ninth and just wrote an entire book about one street in the ninth. I thought it would be a conflict of interest if I promoted MY part of Paris. And the first and second are too often overlooked. Forgive me!
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Perhaps the best coffee in Paris is actually at La Caféothèque de Paris 52 Rue de l'Hôtel de ville 75004 Paris, near the Pont Marie Metro stop. I'll try the recommended place, but I'm quite sure about this place. It's very small, however, although I think there was talk of expansion when I was there last, so don't tell anyone.
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Enjoying the series (NYT- not the hipster oriented TV show), but would like to see more cities that are less commonly featured.
Not just Berlin, Paris, London, Rome, Istanbul.
How about Stuttgart, Oslo, Nice, Bucharest, Riga, Bratislava, Lisbon, The Baltic Isles,The Greek Isles, Palermo, Strasbourg, Bern, Milan, Warsaw, Helsinki, Vilnius, Sofia, Zagreb. Same wth South America and Asia.
Not just Berlin, Paris, London, Rome, Istanbul.
How about Stuttgart, Oslo, Nice, Bucharest, Riga, Bratislava, Lisbon, The Baltic Isles,The Greek Isles, Palermo, Strasbourg, Bern, Milan, Warsaw, Helsinki, Vilnius, Sofia, Zagreb. Same wth South America and Asia.
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Agreed on the series (NYT not TV show); however, Nice, Milan and Strasbourg were amongst the earlier editions of this NY Times video series.
36 Hours in Carcassonne. My fave.
Highly recommend Bern -- wonderful arcaded shopping and medieval section, and a wonderful Christmas Market, as well as Saturday farmers' market; Rotterdam for its modern architecture and fabulous new Markthal; yes to Strasbourg with side trip to several little Alsatian towns, especially Ribeauville; Bergen for its old town (take the high speed train from Oslo to Bergen (plentiful waterfalls and greenery.
To think I once lived in such a fancy city! Paris is now looking so sanitized and bougie that it looks like Greenwich, Connecticut. Veddy Veddy.
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Check out the flea market of Montreuil and the enclosed food market at Saint Senis -- gritty Paris still exists...
Some of the bars I like to go to in the 11th are gritty enough. I miss Les Abats Jour à Coudre in Oberkampf where the owner played Zappa whenever he damned well felt like it. I have met so many sweet, earthy, gruff, earnest and wonderful people in Paris. My favorite city.
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Great article with some nice discoveries, including for me as a long-time resident.
I am missing the grocery shopping- local markets like Rue de Levis provide an excellent opportunity to pick up the best seasonal produce and are a quintessential part of the Parisian experience. e.g. http://www.minorsights.com/2015/02/france-rue-de-levis-market-street.html
I am missing the grocery shopping- local markets like Rue de Levis provide an excellent opportunity to pick up the best seasonal produce and are a quintessential part of the Parisian experience. e.g. http://www.minorsights.com/2015/02/france-rue-de-levis-market-street.html
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Thank you for these excellent and original suggestions.
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Paris never gets old. It seems like everytime I visit the city there is something new to discover. The food in the video looks phenomenal.
http://diningtraveler.com
http://diningtraveler.com
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In a presidential season with candidates proudly declaiming their disgust of liberte, egalite and fraternite - bien sur, of culture in general - this virtual trip to the Right Bank is just the pick-me-up we needed. Thank you.
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Apparently the leaders, and citizens, of several European countries are emulating those nefarious Presidential candidates' views on the perils of unfettered immigration, sarah. Not to mention Marie Le Pen's success in France. Post-post-enlightenment, it seems.
You made my day! What a great pick-me-up!