We found a bottle of Petit Bourgeois by Henri Bourgeois. My husband found this wine satisfying. We drank the wine with a simple meat sauce on pasta and some cooked vegetables. The wine did not taste fruity. In fact, the fruit dropped into the background. Instead the wine welcomed autumn: it tasted smoky and herbal, a mix of cloves and cinnamon. We like dry red wine, and this fit the bill. I think that this wine would pair well with most French cheeses. It has tang but it does not overwhelm the food. I found this wine enabled me to relax more quickly than when I drink a more basic table wine.
We were able to purchase a bottle of 2011 Bernard Baudry Chinon "Le Clos Guillot" (CAN$35) and taste it yesterday, just under the wire for our September assignment. On tasting it right after opening with nothing to prepare us, it was very dry, almost astringent. My dining partner said it tasted "very French". I think she meant dry, minerally, earthy. There was something about the field or barnyard about it. We were a little put off but we had a Parisienne pâté to start and the fat content and strong meat flavours went well with the wine. For mains we had cassoulet with spicy chorizo sausage. The wine was a good compliment to it. Something of note was that the wine didn't impose itself on the meal; it just complemented it, sitting in the background murmuring on the palate. We had a triple cream brie afterwards and again, the dry red helped cut through the richness of the cheese.
The last wine we drank (tonight) was the Philippe Alliet Chinon Vieilles Vignes 2012. We were fortunate to get one vintage back, and I think it was probably worth it---this was a very good wine. Unlike the other two, this one had an opaque appearance to it, and a slight viscosity when swirled in the glass.
We paired it with a chicken breast prepared with paprika, thyme, and white wine, a cauliflower "rice", and Pierre Franey's old but unfailing Sauteed Wild Mushrooms With Shallots and Garlic. The nose showed off a lot of non-fruit aromas and came off as slightly astringent; it's a bit funky, there were some animal notes, sandalwood, and lots of slate mineral and wet earth. However, the fruit showed back up when you took a sip, reminding us of any number of cranberry spice flavored products we'd had in the past. And just like a cranberry, the wine leaves a long, bitter (but not unpleasantly so) impression on the finish.
We thought this wine had more structure than the other two and it put on a lot of weight in the glass over time, going from medium bodied to something closer to full. The earthy notes also provided added depth, which complimented the mushrooms in our meal really well. Of the three, this wine was also the most fun to sit with; it only became more substantial over time, and the aromas and flavors seemed to come to the fore or recede in prominence at various stages. Might be interesting to lie this down for a few years, if we could get another bottle...
We paired it with a chicken breast prepared with paprika, thyme, and white wine, a cauliflower "rice", and Pierre Franey's old but unfailing Sauteed Wild Mushrooms With Shallots and Garlic. The nose showed off a lot of non-fruit aromas and came off as slightly astringent; it's a bit funky, there were some animal notes, sandalwood, and lots of slate mineral and wet earth. However, the fruit showed back up when you took a sip, reminding us of any number of cranberry spice flavored products we'd had in the past. And just like a cranberry, the wine leaves a long, bitter (but not unpleasantly so) impression on the finish.
We thought this wine had more structure than the other two and it put on a lot of weight in the glass over time, going from medium bodied to something closer to full. The earthy notes also provided added depth, which complimented the mushrooms in our meal really well. Of the three, this wine was also the most fun to sit with; it only became more substantial over time, and the aromas and flavors seemed to come to the fore or recede in prominence at various stages. Might be interesting to lie this down for a few years, if we could get another bottle...
Up next was the Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses 2010. And boy, was this wine a different beast from the Charles Jouget. Under the assumption that this might be a more substantial wine, we paired it with bone-in lamb steaks, roasted Brussels sprouts, and fingerling potatoes.
Though still slightly limpid in appearance, this wine had a more extracted look to it, displaying a dark, garnet hue. Upon opening, the nose featured surprisingly rich red and black fruit aromas, along with an "old book" scent that we've also encountered in Bordeaux wines. And on the palate, it approached full body, with ample cherry flavors, supple, velvety tannins, a nice twist of acidity, and a touch of menthol on the finish. For lack of a better description, the wine seemed to be compact and tightly wound up.
It's a shame it didn't stay wound up. Faint hints of brettanomyces that were barely perceptible in the beginning rapidly took on a life of their own, contributing heavy, animal-like aromas to the bouquet. We frankly enjoyed this one less the more it opened. Maybe it's bottle variation, maybe it's working as intended, but it got a little funky for our tastes after an hour and a half or so.
It's still a good option for a slightly heavier Chinon, and it was fantastic with the lamb, which benefited from being paired with a wine with a bit more stuffing. Also, it's nice to be able to buy something with a bit of bottle age at an accessible price.
Though still slightly limpid in appearance, this wine had a more extracted look to it, displaying a dark, garnet hue. Upon opening, the nose featured surprisingly rich red and black fruit aromas, along with an "old book" scent that we've also encountered in Bordeaux wines. And on the palate, it approached full body, with ample cherry flavors, supple, velvety tannins, a nice twist of acidity, and a touch of menthol on the finish. For lack of a better description, the wine seemed to be compact and tightly wound up.
It's a shame it didn't stay wound up. Faint hints of brettanomyces that were barely perceptible in the beginning rapidly took on a life of their own, contributing heavy, animal-like aromas to the bouquet. We frankly enjoyed this one less the more it opened. Maybe it's bottle variation, maybe it's working as intended, but it got a little funky for our tastes after an hour and a half or so.
It's still a good option for a slightly heavier Chinon, and it was fantastic with the lamb, which benefited from being paired with a wine with a bit more stuffing. Also, it's nice to be able to buy something with a bit of bottle age at an accessible price.
Our first wine of the month was the Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches 2012, which we enjoyed with a fantastic meal that featured the Times' own Roasted Chicken Provençal and Tomates Farcies. The wine itself had a very pretty mulberry hue in the glass, and a surprisingly warm nose of black cherry, dried herbs, and that trademark stone/graphite minerality that is present in so many good Chinons. As it evolved over a few hours, some spicier, woodier, and meatier aromas seemed to emerge.
It was just as nice to drink with our meal. Dry, medium-bodied, and cool, with lots of tart cherry flavor and a touch of white pepper. Mineral flavors and tannins combined to give the wine a bit of a chalky feeling in the mouth, all of which contributed to its overall impression of leanness.
We thought it was a really well balanced wine that would compliment a wide range of meals, much as it did ours. Just assertive enough with its tart fruit and mineral richness not to get overwhelmed, (even with the fairly robust menu we had selected) but not heavy or overbearing so that it overwhelms the food. It provided a nice, refreshing break from all the chicken fat and salty pecorino.
With a few hours, we thought the aromas, texture, and flavors all softened somewhat, so if some people dislike a few sharp edges, a decant probably helps. But we enjoyed it at all stages throughout the evening.
It was just as nice to drink with our meal. Dry, medium-bodied, and cool, with lots of tart cherry flavor and a touch of white pepper. Mineral flavors and tannins combined to give the wine a bit of a chalky feeling in the mouth, all of which contributed to its overall impression of leanness.
We thought it was a really well balanced wine that would compliment a wide range of meals, much as it did ours. Just assertive enough with its tart fruit and mineral richness not to get overwhelmed, (even with the fairly robust menu we had selected) but not heavy or overbearing so that it overwhelms the food. It provided a nice, refreshing break from all the chicken fat and salty pecorino.
With a few hours, we thought the aromas, texture, and flavors all softened somewhat, so if some people dislike a few sharp edges, a decant probably helps. But we enjoyed it at all stages throughout the evening.
We felt free to change the order of wines, and did not follow the list on the article.
On the nose, the Joguet Les Petites Roches seemed somewhat bitter with hints of leather, green pepper and walnut. Upon tasting we found a nice balanced texture that went well with the beef tartare we served with it. The bitterness abated with the food.
The Olga Raffault had a big smoky barnyard nose of dark cherry and raw beef. Any tannins that showed were soft and pleasant. We served it with a Porchetta accompanied by currants and pine nuts. It was a great pairing and any weightiness of the wine noticed earlier, dissipated. It was our favorite
We were somewhat disappointed with the Alliet Vieilles Vignes. It was the darkest and most concentrated of the three wines. We found it overly fruity and viscous to a fault. It was not to our liking and the pairing with an Autumn Pouisson did not work.
Overall, we enjoyed getting to know the wines of Chinon.
George Erdle - Harper's Fine Dining Group Charlotte, NC
On the nose, the Joguet Les Petites Roches seemed somewhat bitter with hints of leather, green pepper and walnut. Upon tasting we found a nice balanced texture that went well with the beef tartare we served with it. The bitterness abated with the food.
The Olga Raffault had a big smoky barnyard nose of dark cherry and raw beef. Any tannins that showed were soft and pleasant. We served it with a Porchetta accompanied by currants and pine nuts. It was a great pairing and any weightiness of the wine noticed earlier, dissipated. It was our favorite
We were somewhat disappointed with the Alliet Vieilles Vignes. It was the darkest and most concentrated of the three wines. We found it overly fruity and viscous to a fault. It was not to our liking and the pairing with an Autumn Pouisson did not work.
Overall, we enjoyed getting to know the wines of Chinon.
George Erdle - Harper's Fine Dining Group Charlotte, NC
Pickings were slim at our LCBO outlets in Toronto. We found Joseph Mellot Les Morinières Chinon 2013, Le Grand Bouqueteau Réserve Chinon 2012, and J.M. Raffault Les Picasses Chinon 2011. Although we did wonder if JM Raffault was related to Olga Raffault. All the wines were under CAD$20.
We paired the wines with pork tenderloin, roasted root vegetables and apple chutney, delicious. We found the Joseph Mellot had very low notes on the nose, dark fruit, cherries, ripe fruit and wood. One taster insisted it smelt like raw meat, raw lamb to be precise. It reminded me of a Cahors wine, a Malbec but not as heavy. In the mouth it was quite astringent. The next wine was J M Raffault, Les Picasses. The nose was still woodsy, but we found it more complex and difficult to analyse. More flavourful in the mouth than the first, but astringent. Lastly Le Grand Bouqueteau Reserve was elusive as well, although certainly more penetrating the first.
The pairing with the meal did not blow us away as it has done on other occasions. I registered no comments on the combination. In fact we were underwhelmed by the wines. If we could have found some of the wines you recommended our experience might have been different.
We paired the wines with pork tenderloin, roasted root vegetables and apple chutney, delicious. We found the Joseph Mellot had very low notes on the nose, dark fruit, cherries, ripe fruit and wood. One taster insisted it smelt like raw meat, raw lamb to be precise. It reminded me of a Cahors wine, a Malbec but not as heavy. In the mouth it was quite astringent. The next wine was J M Raffault, Les Picasses. The nose was still woodsy, but we found it more complex and difficult to analyse. More flavourful in the mouth than the first, but astringent. Lastly Le Grand Bouqueteau Reserve was elusive as well, although certainly more penetrating the first.
The pairing with the meal did not blow us away as it has done on other occasions. I registered no comments on the combination. In fact we were underwhelmed by the wines. If we could have found some of the wines you recommended our experience might have been different.
1
Second time round with the Olga Raffault, our focus was on the practical. Would it pair with our household go-to, roast chicken? Um, no. And yes. Cab Franc sure is confusing!
We like the chicken crispy and oily, with skin-on thighs. That is, about as rich as chicken can get without added sauce. It was a bantamweight next to the Raffault. It took bread dipped in oh-so-bad-for-you fat to give the Raffault’s tannins enough to bite into. The bird was also, with its bright, Italian oregano seasoning, a mood mismatch with the more reserved French wine. But that wasn’t the issue. Mainly it was just too big and hard for the poultry. A 7 at best. Lighter Pinots, Beaujolais and even Nerello Mascaleses do way better.
But it did work in a way. The Raffault, like the Joguet, and like their Loire neighbors, the Muscadets, seem able to kick in to a second, more ethereal pairing gear. You may not feel like you’re enjoying the wine/food pairing, but you slowly notice you’re enjoying the meal. Is it the bitterness? The lees? (That’s not a factor with the Chinons, is it?) Can’t say why, but while neither of us felt we’d come back to the Raffault for our next roast chicken, we sure kept coming back to it as we ate this one. I’m baffled!
Side note: a tomato gratin with orange zest (tinyurl.com/pc4v3ka), also outmatched in weight, was a funner, French bistro-ier companion to the Raffault. Added parmesan (there’s a bit in the dish itself) detracted from the pairing. Too broad. Again, too Italian.
We like the chicken crispy and oily, with skin-on thighs. That is, about as rich as chicken can get without added sauce. It was a bantamweight next to the Raffault. It took bread dipped in oh-so-bad-for-you fat to give the Raffault’s tannins enough to bite into. The bird was also, with its bright, Italian oregano seasoning, a mood mismatch with the more reserved French wine. But that wasn’t the issue. Mainly it was just too big and hard for the poultry. A 7 at best. Lighter Pinots, Beaujolais and even Nerello Mascaleses do way better.
But it did work in a way. The Raffault, like the Joguet, and like their Loire neighbors, the Muscadets, seem able to kick in to a second, more ethereal pairing gear. You may not feel like you’re enjoying the wine/food pairing, but you slowly notice you’re enjoying the meal. Is it the bitterness? The lees? (That’s not a factor with the Chinons, is it?) Can’t say why, but while neither of us felt we’d come back to the Raffault for our next roast chicken, we sure kept coming back to it as we ate this one. I’m baffled!
Side note: a tomato gratin with orange zest (tinyurl.com/pc4v3ka), also outmatched in weight, was a funner, French bistro-ier companion to the Raffault. Added parmesan (there’s a bit in the dish itself) detracted from the pairing. Too broad. Again, too Italian.
Charles Joguet 2012. My fist impression: The smell is tannic and boozy. Red wine Deja Vu - I smelled that before. My instinct called it Pinot noir from Bulgaria but I can be wrong. My wife remarked this one opens up with the food (a Variation of our first Steak au Poivre with Cognac instead of Bourbon and the addition of Sichuan Peppers). After an hour in the decanter I poured her a glass through the Aerator and asked her how she likes that wine. "I like that one even better" she replied. Aromas of dark berries were evolving as the Tannins mellowed.
Phillpe Alliet 2013. Surprisingly sweeter then Joguet. There it is the toasty charcoal finish that I find in so many Cabernet Francs. It reminds me of something I taste in a stout. Again decanting and aerating are helpful. Aromas of leather and caramelized vegetables appear. I need to try this one again and pay closer attention.
My wife claims these are wine she would like to drink by the fire when it starts getting colder outside.
Phillpe Alliet 2013. Surprisingly sweeter then Joguet. There it is the toasty charcoal finish that I find in so many Cabernet Francs. It reminds me of something I taste in a stout. Again decanting and aerating are helpful. Aromas of leather and caramelized vegetables appear. I need to try this one again and pay closer attention.
My wife claims these are wine she would like to drink by the fire when it starts getting colder outside.
The first wine we tried for this assignment was Olga Raffault 2010. Pours a brick to ruby red in the glass and has a floral nose of violets. We decanted and used an aerator. I notice soft tannins, dark cassis, earthy and smoky qualities. The right mix of rough and smooth like the sound of a saxophone or the voice of a jazz singer. My idea of bistro food was Steak au Poivre (http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1017319-simple-steak-au-poivre). The wine was emphasizing the creamy, mushroomy, peppery, earthy flavors of these melt in the mouth steaks (what a surprise the dish tasted mushroomy without the presence of mushrooms. My wife loved the wine too but claimed it didn't change much with food.
We had a different impression when we tried Olga Raffault again with grilled lamb loin chops (slight modification of http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/11374-grilled-garlicky-lamb-shoulder-... . The wines aroma shifted towards roast beets. It seemed to echo the sage. It was standing up to the meal like a savory counterpart. Pleasantly weird like a hobbit's dinner party.
We had a different impression when we tried Olga Raffault again with grilled lamb loin chops (slight modification of http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/11374-grilled-garlicky-lamb-shoulder-... . The wines aroma shifted towards roast beets. It seemed to echo the sage. It was standing up to the meal like a savory counterpart. Pleasantly weird like a hobbit's dinner party.
5
Looking back at my notes from our tasting, what's most striking is how few fruit flavors there were. One bottle tasted of blackberries, but the other two were vegetal and mineraly. One bottle, a Bernard Baudry, smelled of the barnyard, and the scent only grew as the bottle aired out. By the end it was like drinking wine in a pigsty -- a nice French pigsty, to be sure. We agreed that it was an interesting experience, but I don't know that it made fans out of us for regular drinking.
Good Evening: Mr. Asimov should feel quite proud of his work; here in San Francisco, wine lovers snap up his suggestions *very* quickly. Not a problem. Found a 2014 Catherine & Pierre Breton, a surprisingly young vintage. Appearance: very dark ruby red, but crystal clear, even brilliant. Nose: big hit of blackberry, strawberry, red currant, with only a touch of oak and a vaguely spicy tone somewhat like cumin of all things. Mouth feel: a bit hot and astringent at room temperature. Much better after a bit of chilling, very smooth. Taste: strawberry and red currant primarily; some oaky, spicy, peppery tones in the background; blackberry, earthy, almost mushroom-like, which was quite a surprise. Mouth filling, decent finish. Not much in the way of tannins. Tried it with a brisket of beef braised in red wine with carrots and onions, with roasted potatoes and ratatouille on the side, and it matched up very, very well.
The big surprise: it's a 2014 vintage. Not terribly long ago! I have little experience with Loire reds, so any ideas re: aging potential remain pure guesswork on my part, but this one seems designed for near-term drinking. Not that I mind at all; The Catherine & Pierre Breton offers a lot of pleasure for a $20-25 bottle.
The big surprise: it's a 2014 vintage. Not terribly long ago! I have little experience with Loire reds, so any ideas re: aging potential remain pure guesswork on my part, but this one seems designed for near-term drinking. Not that I mind at all; The Catherine & Pierre Breton offers a lot of pleasure for a $20-25 bottle.
The Alliet was quite the moving target. The nose began with funky strong animal, plus cherry, and quickly turned to cool mineral, plus cherry. The mouthfeel began desert dry and powdery, later in meal became mineral oily. The flavors began like adult SweetTarts, with an elusive and intriguing finish, strange and puckery sour. Later the wine tasted sweeter, and later still, it began to recall a Red Burgundy’s summery and complex strawberry, only bigger and with a more vegetal/thick mouthfeel. I can understand why the Alliet is the priciest of this month’s wines; it brings a raft of sensations to the table. Of the Chinons I’ve tried, it seemed the warmest (Raffault being the coolest); the least earthy (it fared poorly with the same mushroom dish that the Raffault loved); and the most refined.
It was not my favorite. Maybe it’s a better wine than I am wine-drinker, but I found myself missing the Joguet’s straightforward, say-what-you-mean confidence. The Alliet seemed too subtle by half.
We paired it with braised lamb shanks with olives (tinyurl.com/okpxvqb), and while its flavors held up, and went nicely with the olives, it lacked the tannins to send you back for another bite of rich, fatty meat. And, as noted, it was downright disappointing with our sautéed mushroom side.
(Beginner chef’s note: I thought this stewy lamb and olive dish would pair similarly to the grilled steak and olive tapenade dish we tried with the Joguet. Exact same olives, even. Not remotely alike.)
It was not my favorite. Maybe it’s a better wine than I am wine-drinker, but I found myself missing the Joguet’s straightforward, say-what-you-mean confidence. The Alliet seemed too subtle by half.
We paired it with braised lamb shanks with olives (tinyurl.com/okpxvqb), and while its flavors held up, and went nicely with the olives, it lacked the tannins to send you back for another bite of rich, fatty meat. And, as noted, it was downright disappointing with our sautéed mushroom side.
(Beginner chef’s note: I thought this stewy lamb and olive dish would pair similarly to the grilled steak and olive tapenade dish we tried with the Joguet. Exact same olives, even. Not remotely alike.)
Inspired by readers who drink their wines side by side, we opened all 3 Chinons at once, rather than one at a time. It turned out to be illuminating and fun over the course of two nights: on the first we had well-seasoned but mild Indian food; on the second, I used a recipe for steamed mussels by David Tanis http://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/23/dining/mussels-recipe.html and adopted it for clams.
Raffault's scent was yeasty, woodsy and smokey, but after decanting it smelled like mushrooms, forest floor, and burned hickory. It was earthy and peppery with a smooth, smokey texture. With spices, the heat was felt in the back of the mouth; with steamers it evoked an invigorating sensation all over. It was smooth and balanced, and versatile as we enjoyed it with both meals.
Joguet smelled of jammy fruit and wild flowers. Immediately, it was acidic, tannic and firm. After decanting, it smelled and tasted of red ripe fruit, red currants perhaps. The fruitiest of the Chinons, with most acidity, but perhaps not matched well to our food, it became our least favorite.
Alliet at first smelled "funky," of moss and leaves. After decanting, it was herbs, wood, cedar perhaps, and cranberries. Alliet transformed with food the most and paired perfectly with vegetable Jalfrezi and Tikki masala. The next day with steamers it gained body, structure and herbaceous flavors, and as it rounded up it became our 2nd choice.
Three Chinons with three distinct characters and in all very interesting wines.
Raffault's scent was yeasty, woodsy and smokey, but after decanting it smelled like mushrooms, forest floor, and burned hickory. It was earthy and peppery with a smooth, smokey texture. With spices, the heat was felt in the back of the mouth; with steamers it evoked an invigorating sensation all over. It was smooth and balanced, and versatile as we enjoyed it with both meals.
Joguet smelled of jammy fruit and wild flowers. Immediately, it was acidic, tannic and firm. After decanting, it smelled and tasted of red ripe fruit, red currants perhaps. The fruitiest of the Chinons, with most acidity, but perhaps not matched well to our food, it became our least favorite.
Alliet at first smelled "funky," of moss and leaves. After decanting, it was herbs, wood, cedar perhaps, and cranberries. Alliet transformed with food the most and paired perfectly with vegetable Jalfrezi and Tikki masala. The next day with steamers it gained body, structure and herbaceous flavors, and as it rounded up it became our 2nd choice.
Three Chinons with three distinct characters and in all very interesting wines.
2
So interesting! I used to try side-by-side tasting a lot more. Of course it’s great for identifying subtle differences. But lately—and in good part thanks to Wine School—I think there’s a big drawback, too. The trade-off is, the wine never gets a chance to weave its spell on the meal, to convince you that its particular flavors are exactly the ones your meal cries out for.
Off-Chinon digression: last night was Lambrusco with sausage gorgonzola pizza. I liked it, Barb didn’t, but her reason-why caught me short. I was rambling on about how the bubbles cleansed the mouth and she interrupted, “but I don’t want my mouth cleansed. I want to savor the oiliness.” That’s the kind of insight that tends to get overlooked when you’re tasting this wine, that wine, the next.
That said, these Chinons do make a good case for comparing all at once, same meal. Because they do seem to depend so much on that meal. Looking back, the Chinon I had with the most wildly flavored dish was the one that struck me as most straightforward. The one with the sweetest dish: the most vinegary. And the one with the densest, meatiest, fattiest dish was the one that struck me as too ethereal. Hard to believe those impressions would hold up long were their pairings switched.
In the end, though, there’s one other factor that’s decisive for me, the reason I won’t be opening three Wine School selections at once. I like to spread them out and savor and ponder and anticipate in-between! What do other Schoolers think?
Off-Chinon digression: last night was Lambrusco with sausage gorgonzola pizza. I liked it, Barb didn’t, but her reason-why caught me short. I was rambling on about how the bubbles cleansed the mouth and she interrupted, “but I don’t want my mouth cleansed. I want to savor the oiliness.” That’s the kind of insight that tends to get overlooked when you’re tasting this wine, that wine, the next.
That said, these Chinons do make a good case for comparing all at once, same meal. Because they do seem to depend so much on that meal. Looking back, the Chinon I had with the most wildly flavored dish was the one that struck me as most straightforward. The one with the sweetest dish: the most vinegary. And the one with the densest, meatiest, fattiest dish was the one that struck me as too ethereal. Hard to believe those impressions would hold up long were their pairings switched.
In the end, though, there’s one other factor that’s decisive for me, the reason I won’t be opening three Wine School selections at once. I like to spread them out and savor and ponder and anticipate in-between! What do other Schoolers think?
We were able to find two of the three recommended wines (the 2012 Philippe Alliet and the 2010 Old Raffault) and added a bottle of 2013 Catherine & Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont. These wines were so different and generated a lot of conversation and very unusual descriptions. We are used to using fruit to describe the wines and for these, we got much more earthy, citing mushroom, green pepper, white and black pepper, wood smoke, cedar, coffee. Fruits were noted: raspberry, sour cherry, and blackberries. All three were nicely balanced, the Olga Raffault was especially delightful with its age and smokey nose and flavors. Our dinner was lamb chops with mint sauce, potato gratin, and beets with horseradish cream. The wines accompanied the meal gracefully. As another reviewer noted, they did not assert themselves but rather supported and improved the food. In keeping with the Cabernet franc theme, we enjoyed a sparkling Cab franc - Melaric Globules Roses - with our dessert, an apple tarte tatin. Lovely!
1
These Chinons well worth studying! I found the Charles Joguet Les Petites Roches 2012 and the Philippe Alliet Vieilles Vignes, also 2012 (so not the recommended 2013 vintage).
With the Joguet I could detect an herbal undertone in the flavor (at least I think it was). Accompanying that element was little fruit and moderate acidity, in a blend that was intriguing from the first sip and grew and grew on me as time went on. I liked this wine!
By contrast, I did not detect an herbal element in the Alliet. Again the fruit was modest (perhaps increasing with time) and the acidity dominated. I found the acidity a little too strong for my taste, at least until the final glass (several nights later), when everything fell into place, producing a fond farewell.
With all the raves I'm seeing for the Raffault, I'm very disappointed I couldn't find it...
As a southern Californian who is used to lots of fruit, these wines, even more than the Bordeaux from lesson #1, have been eye-openers.
With the Joguet I could detect an herbal undertone in the flavor (at least I think it was). Accompanying that element was little fruit and moderate acidity, in a blend that was intriguing from the first sip and grew and grew on me as time went on. I liked this wine!
By contrast, I did not detect an herbal element in the Alliet. Again the fruit was modest (perhaps increasing with time) and the acidity dominated. I found the acidity a little too strong for my taste, at least until the final glass (several nights later), when everything fell into place, producing a fond farewell.
With all the raves I'm seeing for the Raffault, I'm very disappointed I couldn't find it...
As a southern Californian who is used to lots of fruit, these wines, even more than the Bordeaux from lesson #1, have been eye-openers.
1
Between bad pairings and too-old bottles (that mysteriously tasted better after 3 nights in the fridge? what’s up with that?), I’m still trying to get my bearings on these wines. My impressions of them are little sooner formed than changed.
Dinner Saturday paired the Charles Joguet with a savory marinated flank steak and olive tapenade, tinyurl.com/nr8jdwf . Alas, from a Wine School p-o-v, it all went by in a lovely blur. The Joguet’s most prominent characteristic was a sense of ease and satisfaction that came in its wake. Like Mr. Ferguson, I found its handshake firm and confident, but also lean, wiry and self-effacing. Our meat dish was a riot of strong flavors (olive, paprika, garlic, orange among them) and the Joguet swam along effortlessly and unfazed. I think this is another of the wines Eric seems to like introducing us to, a wine that makes the whole meal pleasant, or as Barb said last night, a wine that lets the food shine. It certainly was the quiet partner at the table. Compared to the Raffault, I found it, again as did the Fergusons, less complex, but also less temperamental. Besides the difficult pairings with olives and marinades, it was firm and unfussy with the unseasoned meat, and with the tomatoes and watercress, surprisingly fun and light-footed. The throat-closing quality that I found in my first two Chinons was less strident in the Joguet. And the sense I had of the first two, that they demanded close attention to appreciate, was exactly reversed.
Dinner Saturday paired the Charles Joguet with a savory marinated flank steak and olive tapenade, tinyurl.com/nr8jdwf . Alas, from a Wine School p-o-v, it all went by in a lovely blur. The Joguet’s most prominent characteristic was a sense of ease and satisfaction that came in its wake. Like Mr. Ferguson, I found its handshake firm and confident, but also lean, wiry and self-effacing. Our meat dish was a riot of strong flavors (olive, paprika, garlic, orange among them) and the Joguet swam along effortlessly and unfazed. I think this is another of the wines Eric seems to like introducing us to, a wine that makes the whole meal pleasant, or as Barb said last night, a wine that lets the food shine. It certainly was the quiet partner at the table. Compared to the Raffault, I found it, again as did the Fergusons, less complex, but also less temperamental. Besides the difficult pairings with olives and marinades, it was firm and unfussy with the unseasoned meat, and with the tomatoes and watercress, surprisingly fun and light-footed. The throat-closing quality that I found in my first two Chinons was less strident in the Joguet. And the sense I had of the first two, that they demanded close attention to appreciate, was exactly reversed.
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Pretty excited to participate in this lesson! A busy summer saw us participating in (but regretfully not leaving comments on) Santorini Assyrtiko, and sitting out entirely on Bordeaux Blanc. But I think this is a nice lesson to come back to. I appreciate good Chinon for all of its various mineral and herbal complexities; it's typically a wine I recommend to friends when they want a red, but are trying to get away from big, heavy fruit bombs and are willing to take a chance.
With this month's selections we were particularly fortunate, having taken advantage of a recent swing through Manhattan to stop at Flatiron Wines & Spirits and pick up all three recommended bottles. It's a lovely shop, and I can see why so many of the bottles selected for wine school can be found in their inventory. The locals sure have it easy.
With this month's selections we were particularly fortunate, having taken advantage of a recent swing through Manhattan to stop at Flatiron Wines & Spirits and pick up all three recommended bottles. It's a lovely shop, and I can see why so many of the bottles selected for wine school can be found in their inventory. The locals sure have it easy.
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Ferguson's notes below about the Olga Raffault Les Picasses, 2010 was dead on. There is a tension in the body that plays out nicely in the mouth, the acidity is cutting but soft and loaded with flavour. Upon opening it seemed lean and fresh with a real saline/calcarious nose but over the first hour has become a bit opulent and deliciously herbal all at once. Paired with a mediterranean style pizza, perfect. I have always enjoyed Chinon, a good wine to pair with a range of foods and readily available here in France-it is sort of my French "chianti" in terms of go to wines with food here, especially at the bistros. This Raffault is the best I have had from the region and more is in my future.
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Fortuitous lesson! Cabernet Franc is a wine I’ve been wanting to understand, and by pure dumb luck, an untried bottle of the Raffault Les Picasses, 2010, was already in the house. Which, by my Wine School logic, made it a free, go-nuts bonus. (Three schoolwork purchases are allotted no matter what; I’ll pick up another Raffault. Any further bottle or glass that happens along may be dealt with on a whim. That’s the rule.)
Without food, the Raffault seemed animal-y and vinegary, like a warmer, broader, less mineral Beaujolais. But my go-nuts pairing for it was lunacy. I’d read that Cab Francs can accompany spicy food. So how about a household favorite, vinegar pork tenderloin with hot cherry peppers? Could the wine also work like a cooler, leaner, French-er Tempranillo? For those not wincing already, the answer is absolument non. The dish was far too fiery and acidic. Next pairing, the “for real,” l’Il aim for a little more ooh la la, and a lot less olé.
Happily, a side of garlic sautéed Creminis was a better fit, if a demanding one. The wine made a firm counterpoint to the oily soft mushrooms. Its prominent sour notes came through with a woody warmth and, so long as you sipped thoughtfully, a faint, sweet cherry note that tied food and wine together. However... inattentively glugged, it came off sour and unappealing, a vinegary muddle. First take: if Bordeaux Blanc rewards close attention, Cab Franc requires it. You’ve got to go out to it; it doesn’t come to you.
Without food, the Raffault seemed animal-y and vinegary, like a warmer, broader, less mineral Beaujolais. But my go-nuts pairing for it was lunacy. I’d read that Cab Francs can accompany spicy food. So how about a household favorite, vinegar pork tenderloin with hot cherry peppers? Could the wine also work like a cooler, leaner, French-er Tempranillo? For those not wincing already, the answer is absolument non. The dish was far too fiery and acidic. Next pairing, the “for real,” l’Il aim for a little more ooh la la, and a lot less olé.
Happily, a side of garlic sautéed Creminis was a better fit, if a demanding one. The wine made a firm counterpoint to the oily soft mushrooms. Its prominent sour notes came through with a woody warmth and, so long as you sipped thoughtfully, a faint, sweet cherry note that tied food and wine together. However... inattentively glugged, it came off sour and unappealing, a vinegary muddle. First take: if Bordeaux Blanc rewards close attention, Cab Franc requires it. You’ve got to go out to it; it doesn’t come to you.
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I would never think to pair these wines with a vinegar sauce, but actually, cabernet franc goes really well with spicy food. I discovered that at Holy Basil, a Thai restaurant in the East Village, that I reviewed in the early 1990s. It had a particularly good wine list, selected by a guy who used to work at Crossroads wine shop, and I found that a Chinon, or was it a Bourgueil, went beautifully with the food. Worth trying again.
We were able to get all 3 although the Philippe Alliet was a 2012 not a 2013. The instructions were to chill for 30 minutes. The wine merchant said the wine would benefit from decanting. I ended up decanting a portion of each bottle and after 1/2 hour on the kitchen counter putting the decanted portions in the refrigerator for 15 minutes.
I had a taste right after opening; I think the air made the wine taste smoother. As the evening progressed the taste of the wine mellowed. We also preferred the Olga Raffault (2010) to the 2012 Chinons. My husband said that if you shook hand with each wine the Charles Coquet and the Philippe Alliet would have firm, confident handshakes but the Olga Raffault would be welcoming.
Complexity. Yes there was something more than fruit. I would say brambles and spice like allspice and if there were floral notes they were of carnations. The Olga Raffault had a pleasant smokiness. Texture: these were not sharp wines but they weren’t creamy either. I could feel them on the back of my throat as I sipped. These wines were great with food and I would happily have them with a meal again. The first night we had them with leftover chicken with plums from Melissa Clark’s recipe. The next night I looked in the NYTimes and found Florence Fabricant’s duck with mushrooms and broccolini. That, too, was a good match. Chinon asks for something earthy for food. It was so good with the chicken and duck I would think it would make a nice Thanksgiving wine.
I had a taste right after opening; I think the air made the wine taste smoother. As the evening progressed the taste of the wine mellowed. We also preferred the Olga Raffault (2010) to the 2012 Chinons. My husband said that if you shook hand with each wine the Charles Coquet and the Philippe Alliet would have firm, confident handshakes but the Olga Raffault would be welcoming.
Complexity. Yes there was something more than fruit. I would say brambles and spice like allspice and if there were floral notes they were of carnations. The Olga Raffault had a pleasant smokiness. Texture: these were not sharp wines but they weren’t creamy either. I could feel them on the back of my throat as I sipped. These wines were great with food and I would happily have them with a meal again. The first night we had them with leftover chicken with plums from Melissa Clark’s recipe. The next night I looked in the NYTimes and found Florence Fabricant’s duck with mushrooms and broccolini. That, too, was a good match. Chinon asks for something earthy for food. It was so good with the chicken and duck I would think it would make a nice Thanksgiving wine.
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Off to a rough start with the Chinons. First up was the Raffault: a tasty wine that I will have to revisit. My “challenging” pairings for it (vinegary pork with hot peppers, fennel-garlic bbq’d chicken) were awful.
Then I struck out with the Wilfrid Rousse Les Puys, 2009. I went bistro all the way: hanger steak with a red wine/shallot sauce and garlic frites, plus roast broccoli. Sixteen months ago, Eric called the vintage “playful, fresh, juicy, spicy... luscious and enticing right now.” Seems its playful, fresh days are past. The wine was a dull and lumbering oaf that didn’t so much go with the food as sit on it. Only the steak, and only slathered with thick gobs of rich sauce, paired better than ok. Later, after dinner, I tried some cold, dry saucisson—a sure thing, I thought… wrongly. Together, the big wine and oily, salty meat felt tinny and hollow. Rummaging through the fridge, a slice of pepper jack cheese fared best and worst of all. For two seconds, the wine lit up the cheese’s jalapeño. Really tasty. Then the jalapeño lit back, heat vs. alcohol, and my mouth the loser for it.
So I’ve yet to give the Chinons a fair try, but what's notable so far is the mouthfeel: it’s peppery (the Raffault gave a slight Assyrtiko-like tickle). And it’s heavy, but not in any usual way. Not big and heavy on the tongue. Instead, there’s a thickness at the back of the mouth, throat-closing even. I’m reminded–sorry!–of blood. Not really unpleasant. But plenty odd. More study needed.
Then I struck out with the Wilfrid Rousse Les Puys, 2009. I went bistro all the way: hanger steak with a red wine/shallot sauce and garlic frites, plus roast broccoli. Sixteen months ago, Eric called the vintage “playful, fresh, juicy, spicy... luscious and enticing right now.” Seems its playful, fresh days are past. The wine was a dull and lumbering oaf that didn’t so much go with the food as sit on it. Only the steak, and only slathered with thick gobs of rich sauce, paired better than ok. Later, after dinner, I tried some cold, dry saucisson—a sure thing, I thought… wrongly. Together, the big wine and oily, salty meat felt tinny and hollow. Rummaging through the fridge, a slice of pepper jack cheese fared best and worst of all. For two seconds, the wine lit up the cheese’s jalapeño. Really tasty. Then the jalapeño lit back, heat vs. alcohol, and my mouth the loser for it.
So I’ve yet to give the Chinons a fair try, but what's notable so far is the mouthfeel: it’s peppery (the Raffault gave a slight Assyrtiko-like tickle). And it’s heavy, but not in any usual way. Not big and heavy on the tongue. Instead, there’s a thickness at the back of the mouth, throat-closing even. I’m reminded–sorry!–of blood. Not really unpleasant. But plenty odd. More study needed.
I'm sorry. When you get to the point of saying "climate change" and its effect on wine (really??) It shows as a journalist you can just say anything.
Climate change has affected grape-growing all over the wine-making world. Ask any producer from Champagne to the Mosel to Barolo to Napa Valley. Why would you so categorically dismiss this?
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I have always thought that one of the most hilarious skewerings of oenophile arrogance came in the movie "Sideways" where the lead character tastes some cab franc, turns up his nose and says he has come never to expect greatness from it and then brags that the star of his wine collection is a Cheval Blanc, which he proceeds to drink out of a paper bag in a fast food restaurant. LOL!
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Chinon wines are arguably some of the best reds or the Loire Valley but its a complex appellation. A wide range of soil types results in wines which, while similar in their balance of fruit flavours and soft tannins, are noticeably different when grown on sand and gravel, tuffeaux limestone, degraded limestone or clay soils.
This is half the fun of the appellation, making it well worth while seeking out a range and trying them with different foods. Your taste buds will thank you for it!
Chinon is an ancient fortified town on the banks of the river Vienne, close to where it joins the Loire, with a mild, protected microclimate when compared to Tours, for instance. Then, as Jeff has pointed out, great wines from Cab. franc are also grown across the Loire in neighbouring Bourgueil, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny.
Cabernat franc has been grown in the region for 1000 years but changes in winemaking techniques, particularly the use of stainless steel vats, have improved quality enormously.
I have plenty of twenty year old Chinons in our cellar, aging magnificently and a rather wonderful wine from vines over 100 years old.
This is half the fun of the appellation, making it well worth while seeking out a range and trying them with different foods. Your taste buds will thank you for it!
Chinon is an ancient fortified town on the banks of the river Vienne, close to where it joins the Loire, with a mild, protected microclimate when compared to Tours, for instance. Then, as Jeff has pointed out, great wines from Cab. franc are also grown across the Loire in neighbouring Bourgueil, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny.
Cabernat franc has been grown in the region for 1000 years but changes in winemaking techniques, particularly the use of stainless steel vats, have improved quality enormously.
I have plenty of twenty year old Chinons in our cellar, aging magnificently and a rather wonderful wine from vines over 100 years old.
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IN addition to the Chinons you may also want to try a wine from the neighboring Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Excellent Cabernet Francs as well.
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The Olga Raffault is quite tasty. Couly-Dutheil's le Clos de l'Echo is not too shabby either. One thing with red Chinons is they should breathe a bit before drinking. A lot of the restaurants we ate at in Chinon would decant them.
The majority of cabernet franc grown in Napa is used to blend (7-10%) with cabernet sauvignon, which is a good thing because most California cabernet franc by itself would end up in the spit bucket.
There are a few small producers in California that do make bottlings of 100% cabernet franc, and not in every year, however in a favorable year they are amazing. The equal, I think of some estimable Cabernet sauvignon, and priced the same unfortunately.
A producer typically has just one barrel, so It's good to know that Chinon can be had in some quantity from the Loire. The Charles Joguet is available at some other wine shops, besides Kermit Lynch, BTW.
The grape has been planted to more acreage on the North Fork recently. About 250 acres to date. Perhaps some readers have some producer recommendations as I will be visiting my parents on the South Fork next month
There are a few small producers in California that do make bottlings of 100% cabernet franc, and not in every year, however in a favorable year they are amazing. The equal, I think of some estimable Cabernet sauvignon, and priced the same unfortunately.
A producer typically has just one barrel, so It's good to know that Chinon can be had in some quantity from the Loire. The Charles Joguet is available at some other wine shops, besides Kermit Lynch, BTW.
The grape has been planted to more acreage on the North Fork recently. About 250 acres to date. Perhaps some readers have some producer recommendations as I will be visiting my parents on the South Fork next month
No expert here but just consumed the Wolffer Cab Franc 2013 wine club choice - enjoyed it - as with most of their wines. Bonus is its the most beautiful vineyard on South Fork for a visit.
I think you will find more cabernet franc producers on the North Fork than the South Fork. You might consider Paumanok and Shinn Estate, just to name two. And you might reconsider California cabernet franc. Try Lang & Reed, which makes a specialty of the grape.
Finger Lakes winemakers often use Chinons as reference points for their own CFs. One major roadblock is our near-universal abhorrence of the spoilage yeast Brettanomyces, which shows up in, I'd say, more than 70% of Chinons. Not that producers there are expected to take advice from us, but it would be nice if they at least acknowledged Brett's primacy as a flavor in their wines. It seems that more and more producers there are embracing the idea that filtration hurts wine (or that saying 'unfiltered' on the label helps to sell it), so we are seeing more rather than less Brett. And the wines only get worse with age as the microbes continue to grow in the bottle.
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I'm one of those wine drinkers for whom a touch of Brett is considered a good thing. And I'm not alone. Lots of styles for lots of tastes. The more the merrier! I was in the Finger Lakes two weeks ago tasting Riesling. I'll have to make a return trip to sample the Cab Franc's.
Peter, thanks for joining in. I haven't noticed brett in Loire reds quite to the extent that you have, and I would agree with NS that a little bit is not necessarily a bad thing, though I'm not a fan of overwhelmingly bretty wines. I thank you also for the reminder that the Finger Lakes is a great source for American cabernet francs.
We were in Chinon last year and were disappointed that we were too late for lunch at Les Années Trente (we dined there the next day...). Walking down the main street, we discovered that we were too late for all the restaurants. But it all worked out for the best because we opted for a dégustation de vins at a wine merchant's shop. We were the only patrons at that hour and he chatted with us about the local wines for an hour and a half, opened six bottles for us to taste, and served us a cheese platter with about 10 different cheeses. A wonderful experience! And, yes, all the wines were great.
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Les Années Trente ! I remember stumbling upon it during one visit to Chinon a few years ago and we enjoyed a wonderful dinner there.
Last February, we hosted a blind taste-off of modestly priced Cab Francs; three Loires, a NYS Sheldrake Point, and a Californian. These were paired with a feta-brined roast chicken. There was no unanimous winner (except perhaps the chicken), but the Sheldrake Point was high on everyone's list, and the Californian was low. Everyone did come away with new appreciation for the wine from this grape.
Glad you liked the Sheldrake (I'm the winemaker). Do you remember which vintage it was? Thanks for the mention in any case!
Looking forward to this lesson. Unfortunately, in the province of Ontario, Canada wine is only available in state owned stores (no private stores exist). As you can imagine, this limits the selection available to consumers. I came across this wine that seems similar to the third of your recommendation. Is the same brand with a different name? Thanks!
http://www.lcbo.com/lcbo/product/jm-raffault-les-picasses-chinon-2011/36...
http://www.lcbo.com/lcbo/product/jm-raffault-les-picasses-chinon-2011/36...
I tried the 2012 vintage of this one a year ago and found it a bit diluted and uninteresting. But I might have been a bit early in tasting it. I'm pretty sure "Les Picasses" is the same vineyard as the Olga Raffault selection, so it'd be cool to compare the two! Alas I am also in Ontario at the mercy of the LCBO.
When I lived in Vancouver I drank many bottles of a Chinon called Le Logis de la Bouchardière by Serge and Bruno Sourdais that was wonderful. It had that characteristic pencil lead aroma and great fruit concentration. And it was priced at $12! Unfortunately it is no longer available.
When I lived in Vancouver I drank many bottles of a Chinon called Le Logis de la Bouchardière by Serge and Bruno Sourdais that was wonderful. It had that characteristic pencil lead aroma and great fruit concentration. And it was priced at $12! Unfortunately it is no longer available.
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Les Picasses is one of the great values in wine. You could have choosen much older bottles of Les Picasses at prices much lower than bottles from previous sessions of Wine School.
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Thanks for the recommendations and informative article. Always love a good Chinon.
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