A Warm Welcome in the Caucasus Mountains

Apr 12, 2015 · 53 comments
Watertown Armenian (Boston)
What a lovely, genteel, and indeed a spiritual article! As an Armenian American who has yet to visit Armenia or Artsakh (Nagorno Karabakh) partly because it is a difficult trek, this article convinced me to set aside any specious excuses and make this a priority. I hope that many readers of the New York Times will do the same. The heroic people of Artsakh suffered dreadfully under the murderous regime of the oil barons from Baku. All they're asking is a chance to flourish as Christian Armenians. To paraphrase my Jewish American friends, next year in Stepanakert!
ejlabnet (London)
Btw, for people who still believe that Armenia was the first Christian kingdom, you should read the book “Abyssinian Christianity: The First Christian Nation?”. There is also article on http://www.ibtimes.com/ethiopia-first-christian-nation-1110400. Here is the quote: "Armenia's claim on this meaningful title is primarily based upon the celebrated fifth-century work of Agathangelos titled “The History of the Armenians.” In it, he says as an eyewitness that after the Armenian King Trdat III was baptized (c. 301/314 A.D.) by St. Gregory the Illuminator, he decreed Christianity was the state religion. ...recent studies date “The History of the Armenians” to c. 450 A.D., making it impossible for Agathangelos to have been an eyewitness. ...Armenia’s claim is based on nothing more than oral history…

...All that glisters is not gold;
Often have you heard that told:
(William Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
Garbis Yessayan (Montreal-Canada)
"Christianity spread into the country as early as AD 40. King Tiridates III (AD 238–314) made Christianity the state religion in AD 301,[39][40] becoming the first officially Christian state, ten years before the Roman Empire granted Christianity an official toleration under Galerius, and 36 years before Constantine the Great was baptized."
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armenia
Cometboy1961 (Vancouver, WA)
Seth, I am planning a trip to Armenia next year, so have really enjoyed your articles about this region. Your off-the-grid coverage of travel is needed for an industry that seems to want to concentrate and focus on nothing but luxury resorts and high-end living that not everyone can afford. Those of us who don't have a lot of money are thankful just to get to go and see someplace new, and experience life (at least for a short time), as others do, and learn from it. I think your insight and travel methods are priceless; keep up the good work!
Vet (OCONUS)
I just returned from a month in Azerbaijan. It is interesting to read this author's positive and light-hearted perspective on the NK region having seen it myself only through the eyes of folks in Baku. Azerbaijan's capital-dwelling elites are deeply passionate about NK but generally seem to have very little first hand experience with anything outside of the Absheron Peninsula. While I am somewhat sympathetic to the claims of Azerbaijan on the NK region, in general NK's greatest value for the current government of Azerbaijan is as a distraction to the miserable state of the remainder of the country and its dim prospects for the future. If you stand atop those gaudy Flame Towers and face away from the foul-smelling Caspian Sea, you will see the real Baku and indeed the real Azerbaijan. There are far fewer LED displays and luxury automobiles as you travel west from the city. And if the Azerbaijani development plan for the NK region includes putting up more statues of Heydar Aliyev in its public spaces, I can't say that I blame the people of NK for wanting to be independent.
Garbis Yessayan (Montreal-Canada)
"in general NK's greatest value for the current government of Azerbaijan is as a distraction to the miserable state of the remainder of the country"
" I can't say that I blame the people of NK for wanting to be independent."
And here is more info for you...en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagorno-Karabakh
stu freeman (brooklyn NY)
I hate articles like this when they're written by people who've spent only a minimal amount of time in-country. You don't need a week to see Karabakh but you need to make time for the region's two most beautiful and historic Armenian churches. One is at Gandzasar (40 km north of Stepanakert) and the other at Dadivank (30 km further on). To do these, it's best to enter Karabakh from the north, via Lake Sevan which will also allow you to visit the beautiful old cemetery at Noratus. Once you've crossed the border into Karabakh, you'll need to spend a few uncomfortable hours traveling some terribly bumpy roads until you get to Dadivank. But the trip is well worth it- the church is a marvelous old ruin and the mountainous scenery is fantastic. The bad road continues until you get to Gandzasar, which is an active church and the most important one in Karabakh. From there to Stepanakert (and Shushi) the ride is much easier.
When you leave Karabakh, by all means do so via the southern border into Armenia, giving you the opportunity to visit the vast Vorotan Canyon with its cliff-hugging Tatev church and the volcanic landscapes at Goris and Khndzoresk which resemble smaller versions of Cappadocia. It's a really fantastic trip if you can avoid talking politics.
ejlabnet (London)
All churches you mentioned above and plus some churches in Armenia like Tatev Monastery are part of Church of Arran (Caucasian Albania), which was abolished by Russian Empire and amalgamated with the Armenian Church in 1836, by Tsar Nicolas I of Russia "The Decree on managing the affairs of the Armenian-Gregorian Church in Russia". The Udis of Azerbaijan and N.Karabakh are remnants of that christian population of Azerbaijan before Arab conquest.
ejlabnet (London)
It is very romanticised naive travellers guide to NG (Nagorno-Karabakh) region. I came from the Caucasus 5 days ago. There is constant fire between opposing sides. So it is not safe to travel there at all. Besides you need to keep in mind that there are millions road mines spread across ragged terrain of NG installed by Armenian army during the conflict. I saw news how NG child blew up his hands on one of these mines. Any planes flying over NG without permission from Azerbaijan will be shot by Azerbaijani military forces, and vise versa. Having visa from NG in your passport, will be great problem if you decide to travel to Azerbaijan. You will be instantly deported.

Azerbaijan might not control the territory of NG de facto, but it has strong power in the region. And just like Israel, it might seems small, but it is the country you don't mess with.
stu freeman (brooklyn NY)
I experienced no problems at all during my visit last summer. Insofar as the visa is concerned, the officials involved will reportedly issue a separate paper document if one is requested (I don't know this for certain as I was not traveling to Azerbaijan during this trip and so allowed them to stamp the visa into my passport)).
ejlabnet (London)
My information is quite fresh including the fact that few days ago a soldier from Armenian army crossed into the Azerbaijani side and surrendered. He was mistreated by his fellow Armenian officers. There were also clashes on the border between mobs from Armenia and NG.
minas (Chicago)
I am afraid your information is not that fresh. There has always been clashes on the border mostly initiated by the Azerbaijani side which refuses to withdraw the snipers from the line of contact and uses every opportunity to instigate violence. And there has always been cases of border crossing by people who want to use it as means to get refugee status in Europe. A year ago an entire Azerbaijani family fled to Armenia. I very much doubt that you have been to NK, the line of contact is far from the capital, Stepanakert, which is much safer than Chicago were I live! You can go out literary any time of the day and since people are isolated from the outside world they are extremely hospitable towards foreigners.
michela caudill (Baltimore)
I read with interest many of the comments. They reflect the terrible sense of hostility that has marked and scarred this region and continues to devastate it.
I visited Nagorno-Karabakh in June of 2009. What was apparent and startling to me was the destruction of areas where Azerbaijani's had once lived. My Armenian driver was proud of this ruin. It is worth noting that for all intents and purposes Armenia has become a mono-culture and I sensed a desire to create the same environment in Nagorno-Karabakh. I saw flattened Mosques along with entire villages, and the whole thing was terrible to behold. I cannot speak to the complex history of this tormented region. I only note that it is an area torn apart and there is a terrible sense of forces being played out in this region, that are out of control.

Yes there is great natural beauty in the mountains and valleys but that loveliness must be weighed against the horror of what has occurred in this region. There were literally no Azerbaijanis left. As a people, the Armenians suffered a form of genocide and yet they carried out a similar effort against those who were different from them. I cannot help but wonder how Armenia justifies its actions. Apparently the lessons of history have been lost upon its politicians. The war that has decimated the region now known as Nagorno-Karabakh speaks clearly to the savagery of humans towards each other while it also decries the lessons of history.
minas (chicago)
You might want to educate yourself a bit before jumping to conclusions. the areas which were once populated by Azerbaijanis were captured by Armenians as a result of Azerbaijan's refusal to accept any sort of ceasefire at the time of war. The Azerbaijani mentality at the time was "either all or nothing" and your attempt to compare the Armenian Genocide with the war in NK is simply pathetic. If Armenians had the intention to kill Azerbaijani civilians, they could have killed hundreds of thousands! Even now Armenia is ready for a "land for peace" solution, it is the Azerbaijani side which cannot cope with the idea that lands which are populated by Armenians and have always been populated by Armenians, will never be a part of their country again.
A.D.T. (CA)
Zhingyalov hats? They are so good and so difficult to find in the US. Glendale, CA, is my source. I'm not even from that part of the world, but I'll recognize anyone who serves zhingyalov.
Dee (WNY)
Fascinating article by the always interesting Seth Kugel.
Equally fascinating comments by pro-Azeri readers and pro-Armenian readers which turn the travel aspect into a political, religious and historical debate.
This is why I'm happy to pay for the NYT online. This is why a free press matters so much.
Ali Aleskerov (Baku. Azerbaycan)
Republic of Armenia by means of Armenians of resident in the Karabah area of the Azerbaijanian republic, occupied Karabah and 7 districts round her. We are war Azerbaijanians we do not want but also we will not allow what our earth remained under occupation of Armenians. We from permission the most High will do everything what to free our earth. And God will help us.
Aaron (North Bergen)
As an Israeli-American I cannot help but find your comment incredibly haunting.
Raman (Azerbaijan)
Nagorno - Karabakh is historical and sovereign land of Azerbaijan period. To be true to the geogrpahy, there is no region called Nagorno- Karabakh. There is a geographic region called Karabakh, which included mountainous and plain territories of Azerbaijan. The word Karabakh is Azerbaijani - Turkic word meanining black garden. There is nothing armenian in the name of Nagorno Karabakh too. Nagorno Karabakh region was created by Stalin to satisfy Armenian claims and agression against Azerbaijanis. Indeed, current Armenia is established on historical lands of Azerbaijan called Goyche, Zengezur and Dereleyez. All of these regions had majority Azerbaijani populations. Indeed the population of the Karabakh was around 1 million people of which 90% WERE Azerbaijanis who were ethnically cleansed by Armenian militiamen and the Russian army fighting along with the Armenian militiamen. You may ask me why Russian army? Becuase Azerbaijan is the first former Soviety country excluding Baltic countries which removed Russian army from its territories in 1992. IN retaliation Russia sent all its armies to support Armenian militia men in Karabkh to punish Azerbaijan for it Western orientation and aspirations. Unfrotunately, Russian armies were successful and they achieved occupation of Azerbaijan's 20% of sovereign land. But I am telling Armenians not to invest in Karabakh or build houses, because the real and original inhabitants of Karabakh will return, sooner or later, by peace or.
Arthur (Shushi)
Very nice article!!!

Who cares whether the borders are internationally recognized today or not? People live here and build statehood. Azeris started the war and they lost it. Instead of wasting billions of petrodollars on arms they better spend some money to improve the lives of the refugees who can return home when Azerbaijan faces and understands the reality.

Anyway, a warm welcome is waiting for everyone who visits Karabakh in peace. But please please please spend few more days if you want to see the real treasures of this country
Mary Summer (Stepanakert)
I am from Artsakh, Stepanakert. I am proud to be... Our movement for liberation began with peacefull demonstrations. The referendum with 98.9% showed the intention of people to live independent from Azerbayjan. The anwser were pogroms in Sumgait, Baku, Kirovabad, Isolation of Nagorno Karabakh, an intention to calm up people by force. It was really suprising but first time for many centures Armenians raised in a struggle against pressure of muslims! We payed a great price. Our children and eldery were killed, homes were distroyed with bombs. Young boys gave their live for freedom. We had no alternative that`s why we won. We don`t want to fight but we will defend our soul by all means.
Amir (Canada)
Mr.Kugel didn't mention a very important thing - once you entered Karabakh, you become a persona non grata in Azerbaijan, and you can't travel there. And talking about "intact and lovely" condition of azeri mosques - here are the photos:
http://en.trend.az/azerbaijan/karabakh/2380929.html
Watertown Armenian (Boston)
For fair and balanced reporting, perhaps you also have photos of the centuries-old Armenian cemetery in Nakhijevan harboring numerous and priceless khachkars (stone crosses) that was desecrated and completely destroyed by Azerbaijanis?
Arto (S.Korea)
Very nice article!
James (Los Angeles)
Stefan - Do you realize that the Azeris started with pogroms against the Armenians in Baku then Sumgait?

Tamhaz - "It should also be noted that Azerbaijan retains its right to free its internationally recognized lands anytime" lol - you have been threatening to free it for 20 years now, stop talking and attempt to. And before you speak of Khojaly understand that the Azeris started first with massacres or "genocides" as you falsely put it against the Armenians in Baku, Sumgait, Kirovabad later in Maraga.

Any person not familiar with this issue can read about it and see the Armenians are the rightful owners of the land and were right to claim self determination after all the lands were given to azerbaijan by the soviets with no history to the area.
Ali Aleskerov (Baku. Azerbaycan)
Events happening KGB of the USSR is organized in Sumqait, on the whole at the sources of bloody Karabah motion Armenians, Azerbaijanians, stood always with a warmth behaved to the neighbours but unfortunately these neighbours coveted on earth of Azerbaijanians. Ukraine Crimea +Donetsk and Luhansk, Georgia south Ossetia+Abhazia, Moldavia Transnistria , Azerbaijan Karabah . IDENTICAL !
Asya (Hovs)
Thank you! It's very useful and interesting information. Now I had a desire to visit this beautiful ancient and hospitable country
Raman (Azerbaijan)
Asya İ would strongly discourage you from doing so. This is Azerbaijan's sovereign land and without getting Azerbaijan's visa your travel will be illegal. It is a risky place too, as Azerbaijani commandos are regularly traveling to the Nagorno Karabakh - Azerbaijan's indivisable and sovereign territory for intelligence and strategic missions. So you may end up in Azerbaijan's prision instead.
Ali Aleskerov (Baku. Azerbaycan)
Do not forget to ask permission at MFA of Azerbaijan because Karabah the internationally-confessed territory of Azerbaijan.
Hovsep Khashuni (Los Angeles)
Armenians are always hospitable and would love if you visited. As long as our territory remains ours everyone is most definitely welcome.
Dennis (Mamaroneck, NY)
Sadly, the ONLY thing "complex" about the Genocide of the Armenians is Turkey's 100-year continued denial of it. It remains a historical fact, plain and simple.
Ali Aleskerov (Baku. Azerbaycan)
"We opened our archives for public. We said to Armenia is your turn, we added that ready to turn a person to our history, but, unfortunately, Armenia was not ready to it", - the Turkish official said. Багыш confirmed the willingness of Turkish authorities to begin work in this direction and repeated suggestion to set up the committee of scientists - "historians, anthropologists, political scientists" on the study of question of genocide. "We would appeal to the nearest ally of the Ottoman empire of that time - Germany, open archives, or to Great Britain that was one of the most active countries at that time, - the Turkish minister marked. - And, eventually, we would appeal to the USA or Russia".
As he considers, Turkey needs the report of academic analysis through this question, with that politicians certainly will be considered. "We will not allow to the country, that can not give a glance in the eyes of own history, present a question as the accomplished fact", - a state minister underlined.
art (naples)
well said...the turkish govt keeps denying their bloody history and brainwashing turks, but international history scholars have spoken......and better yet, more and more turkish scholars are now recognizing their bloody past publicly
this is from the international assoc of genocide scholars
http://www.genocidescholars.org/sites/default/files/document[current-page:1]/documents/Scholars Denying Armenian Genocide--.pdf
Hayk Ohanyan (Moscow)
Dear Tahmaz,

Probably, youre somewhat underaducated if you think, that Azeris where majority in this region. Armenians have been living there for at least 2,5 thousand years. This will proove any source, accept of Azeri and Turkish origin. This is not the case with Flat Karabakh, where Azeris probably where the majority during last few centuries. Maybe you've mixed up those two regions.
Tedo (Tbilisi)
I am an American who has lived in Georgia for many years. I admire the Armenian nation and have enjoyed my visits to Armenia. But going to Nagorno-Karabakh and writing a "come visit" tourism piece is deeply wrong. Nagorno-Karabakh is internationally recognized as an autonomous republic within Azerbaijan; and its independence is not recognized by any nation (not even Armenia). Some 1 million Azerbaijani civilians who had lived there and a surrounding belt of Azerbaijani territory that the Armenians also conquered and took, were expelled -- ethnically cleansed - by Armenian armed forces. They are rotting in refugee camps in Azerbaijan now. I greatly enjoyed Seth Kugel's earlier piece on Tbilisi - I deeply hope he now will not go to Abkhazia - another broken off territory, not internationally recognized, built on the graves and homes of killed and expelled Georgians (250,000 of them). No tourist adventure is worth condoning a humanitarian, legal and ethical disaster that it is built on.
Emil (Moscow)
This comment probably is the smartest and the most objective comment among others., as Tedo does not take anybody's part but states the importance of internationally accepted norms and ethics.
Special thanks for being objective!
WimR (Netherlands)
"They are rotting in refugee camps in Azerbaijan now."

The only reason they are still rotting in refugee camps is that the Azeri government forbids them to leave those camps and take part in the oil boom in Baku. They are abused by their government for propaganda purposes. It is better not to reward this propaganda as it prolongs the maltreatment.
minas (chicago)
Extremely one-sided my "American" friend who lives in Georgia! Your comment makes me think that one day Armenians woke up early in the morning and since they had nothing to do they decided to kill some Azerbaijanis and expel the rest! Oh bad Armenians, you might want to ask your "Armenian" friends whom hospitality you enjoyed to give you some insight into what exactly happened during the war and how did it all begin. How the Armenian side was begging the Azerbaijanis to put on end to the nonstop shelling of Stepanakert's residential areas and sign a ceasefire agreement and how at the time the president of Azerbaijan had dreams of "washing his feet" in lake Sevan. People who live in these so-called unrecognized republics are just humans like you and me and they have the right to have visitors and tourists. I, for one, will enjoy reading about Abkhazia or any other region as long as it is simply for educating people about other cultures and lands. Any kind of boycott of some land is simply some sort of collective punishment which is wrong, even if you do not agree with the political establishment in that area.
Greg (Kansas City, Kansas)
WOW! I always wanted to see Karabakh. Now I'm definitely going to go. I got my tickets to Armenia for June 15-25. Thanks Seth!
Asya (Hovs)
Me too! And I want to make up my own mind! It's great that you have shared with us of your experiences and impressions. Thank you!
MNS (CA)
Upon my last visit to Nagorno Karapaph which was a six hour bus ride from Yerevan, I found the region absolutely breathtaking. Pristine, untouched nature, beautiful villages with friendly, hospitable people. Just forget about politics and Azabaijan. Then entire region belonged to the Armenians and it was randomly given to Azabaijian by the Russian leader Stalin. He not only butchered 20 million of his people, but also divided Armenia into parts in such a way that pitted the Azaris and Armenians against each other for centuries to come. Before this, Armenians had lived peacefully with Azaris in Baku, capital of Azabaijan for centuries. A trip to this region is a must in Spring and summer. Large tour groups of Germans, Italians, French and others from all over the world visit every year. The enjoy themselves and feel quite safe.
hugoegonzalez (Buenos Aires)
Nice pictures! historic and intiguing land.
Stefan (Washington, DC)
Thank you for an interesting review. Having visited Azerbaijan last year, I became more aware of the issues surrounding Nagorno-Karabakh. Although you acknowledge hearing "just one side of a very complex story," thousands of Azeris are still missing, following extreme brutality and horrors. One would have thought that Armenians, having endured centuries of oppression, would have refrained from such ethnic cleansing. Maintaining abandoned mosques does not make up for this. Perhaps Mr. Kugel will next visit Russian-occupied Ukraine?
Doug (Tucson)
Or any number of places---Alsace-Lorraine, Hawaii, the whole continental US. Life goes on in a crazy world.
dgdevil (Hollywood)
Good article. But you should have done stunning Azerbaijan first. They'll never let you in now.
Robert W. (San Diego, CA)
Sounds beautiful, but keep in mind that you don't want to travel to Azerbaijan if you've been to Nagorno-Karabakh. It's okay to go there if you've been to Armenia proper, but you can be arrested if you've been to Nagorno-Karabakh.
stu freeman (brooklyn NY)
It's okay to travel from Armenia proper to Azerbaijan but the Azeris won't let you bring in anything you've purchased there- wine, souvenir items, etc. Be forewarned. If visiting both countries, it's best to to do Azerbaijan first. For that matter, you can see Azerbaijan, then travel to Armenia and THEN go to Karabakh as you don't need to secure the Karabakh visa until you've made it to Stepanakert.
Andy (Los Angeles)
To me the fact that you can go to Armenia and not be bothered after your visit to Azerbajan but can't go to Azerbajan without being harassed after your visit to Armenia or Artsakh (aka Nagorno Karabakh) says it all.
Tahmaz (Rustamov)
It should be noted that Azerbaijanis who lived in the area for hundreds of years constituted majority of the population of Nagorno-Karabakh. In the early 1990s Armenia with the help of Russia invaded Nagorno-Karabakh. Tens of thousands Azerbaijanis were killed as a result of Armenian invasion. Around one million Azerbaijanis were forced to flee their homes.

I strongly urge the author of this article to search for Khojaly Genocide on the internet.

United Nations Security Council adopted four resolutions calling for immediate withdrawal from Nagorno-Karabakh and sorrounding regions.

Every person traveling to Nagorno-Karabakh should be aware of the fact that traveling to Nagorno-Karabakh without permission of Azerbaijan violation of Azerbaijani laws.

It should also be noted that Azerbaijan retains its right to free its internationally recognized lands anytime
nersessa (Canada)
Specific Azeri lies. You should also tell about Armenians having occupied 20% (sometimes 25) of Azerbaijani land and about one million displaced persons. Long discredited, old lies (oh wait, you have written about the million). But the shameful tale about Khojali "genocide" is still being widely exploited.

Artsakh, Nagorno-Karabakh (Mountainous Karabakh), was part of Armenia since at least 25 centuries, ever since Armenian Kingdom was established, and long before any of the Seljuk, Mongol, Turkic, Ottoman, Turkmen nomads poured in with sword and fire into Trans-Caucasius and devastated the land. This much about Azeris having formed majority in Artsach for centuries. Even after repeated massacres of Armenians in Shushi (most recent in 1905, and in 1920) Armenians constituted 97% of the population, when Josef Stalin generously handed Artsakh to Azeris, trying to serve his "Bolshevik allies" of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk for the sake of the "world socialist revolution" (who later deserted him of course). In 1988 when people of Artsakh decided to get out of the "loving embrace" of Azerbaijan, the Armenians constituted 75% of population.

By the way the Turkic Karabakh is the translation of the classical Armenian word Artsakh, both meaning black forest.
Alex (New York)
"It should be noted that Azerbaijanis who lived in the area for hundreds of years constituted majority of the population of Nagorno-Karabakh"

LOL, Rustam. LOL. Hence the 77% Armenian population in 1989 and all these Armenian churches from the 10th century on. A real Azeri stronghold, that.
Linda Burnham (Saxapahaw NC)
Thanks for this. I'm in the mood.
Koofta (nyc)
Thanks for the article and especially the contact for the guide. Armenia and Karaabagh are an outdoor adventurers dream, just awaiting the proper development. If I publilly yelled for skewers in my neighborhood in New Jersey, I would probably find myself spread eagle in my driveway with my hands cuffed by the local gendarrme. LOL