Thank you for not mentioning Louis Martini, the hidden gem of Napa Valley cabernets (and many other wines).
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Most of their cabs come from Sonoma.
Excerpts from one of Dan Berger’s wine columns in the Napa Valley Register. HEADLINE: "The decline of 'cabernet-ness'"
". . . Dr. Richard Peterson, former longtime wine maker (Beaulieu Vineyard) and a consultant to many wineries . . . said he was dismayed by many of the high-end cabernets he has tried over the last few years, noting that so few of the expensive wines he tastes have much relationship to the grape variety.
"After trying a number of $30 to $40 cabs recently, Peterson said, he was struck by the fact that there was very little to like in these wines, which he said were 'dark and heavy.' He said almost all of the wines had overripe flavors, a lot of oak, high alcohol, low acidity, and a lot of tannin. 'These wines were not cabernets,' he said. 'They were caricatures of cabernet!'
"'I have noticed something interesting: Low to medium-priced red wines tend to keep their alcohol levels under control, but most of the super-high-priced wines do not.' And that, he said, accounts for more varietal-ness in lower-priced wines.
"One reason that lower-priced wines typically have lower alcohol levels is that profit margins on such wines are lower, thus wineries try to make them more cost effectively. And one way to save money on such wines is to keep alcohols down [due to the lower federal tax on wines with less than 14 percent alcohol].
"As a result, many broad-market cabs are under 14 percent, which usually leads to better balance."
". . . Dr. Richard Peterson, former longtime wine maker (Beaulieu Vineyard) and a consultant to many wineries . . . said he was dismayed by many of the high-end cabernets he has tried over the last few years, noting that so few of the expensive wines he tastes have much relationship to the grape variety.
"After trying a number of $30 to $40 cabs recently, Peterson said, he was struck by the fact that there was very little to like in these wines, which he said were 'dark and heavy.' He said almost all of the wines had overripe flavors, a lot of oak, high alcohol, low acidity, and a lot of tannin. 'These wines were not cabernets,' he said. 'They were caricatures of cabernet!'
"'I have noticed something interesting: Low to medium-priced red wines tend to keep their alcohol levels under control, but most of the super-high-priced wines do not.' And that, he said, accounts for more varietal-ness in lower-priced wines.
"One reason that lower-priced wines typically have lower alcohol levels is that profit margins on such wines are lower, thus wineries try to make them more cost effectively. And one way to save money on such wines is to keep alcohols down [due to the lower federal tax on wines with less than 14 percent alcohol].
"As a result, many broad-market cabs are under 14 percent, which usually leads to better balance."
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Napa Valley best wine ever I tasted.
Wonderful to see Napa Valley Cabernet in the Wine School curriculum. Hopefully this tasting inspires readers to try more of the diverse array of Cabernets from Napa Valley – from grapes sourced from valley floor to hillside; wines made by both well-known producers and newcomers; styles ranging from elegant to powerful; and prices from every day to special occasion.
I loved and love Napa wines then moved to France for business and so I've become accustomed to the local wines. I'll admit it was not that difficult to make the adjustment: the French wines are oftentimes delicious and are overall less expensive. One item of note to CA wineries is that there are few American wines on the shelves and most of those are low-end plonk at relatively high prices. Despite stereotypes to the contrary, which personal experience says are oftentimes outdated and incorrect, I think the French would be interested in trying the American wines. It might sound counter-intuitive but maybe it is time for the better American wines, especially those from Napa (which has a mystique, even here), to make the trip back across the ocean to French shelves.
French stores hang a big 'Vins Etrangers' over the shelf of grocery store American wine. French word for strange is etrange (accent aigu over the first e).
I never got the impression they were interested.
I never got the impression they were interested.
Re the comment from Jones: The phrase "Vins Étrangers" simply means "Foreign Wines", not "strange wines", as your comment erroneously implies.
The Hess Collection Napa Valley Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon, at SRP $30, is a wonderful expression of Napa, in this case, from Pope Valley. And from the coolest mountain in Napa, The Hess Collection Mount Veeder 19 Block Mountain Cuvee ($38 srp) is a Bordeaux like blend that shows off both Cabernet and Malbec, which grows wonderfully on the mountain. Both would be interesting contrasts for the trio tasted in this edition of the school. Napa Charbono is still around, with the Artezin Napa Charbono often in the conversation.
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Eric - John Williams here from Frog's Leap. Thank you very much for including theFrog's Leap's 2012 Cabernet in the last issue of the Wine School but most of all thanks to your readers for their thoughtful consideration and comments. It was a bit of a humbling experience to have a wine that you have made 'undressed' in such a public format but really what more can any winemaker ask for than to have someone slow down and really taste their wine? Thank you for the Wine School, I am a student and it's amazing how much you can learn even if you have had the opportunity to make and drink great wines for more than 40 years. One quibble as to the title "A Return to Classic Napa Style " .... as you know some of us never left!
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As a long-time fan and former mailing list subscriber, I am thrilled that Mr. Asimov has chosen to throw the spotlight on the considerable talents of Mr. Togni (and his partner winemaker/daughter Birgitta); however it is misleading to choose his Tanbark Hill bottling for the article. rather than their primary offering, the Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet. The Tanbark Hill, while always impressive and more affordable, is considered their 'second bottling.'
I would encourage Cab fans and winelovers in general to give the primary bottling a try.
I would encourage Cab fans and winelovers in general to give the primary bottling a try.
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Very true. I second BD's suggestion to stick to the Togni Vineyard Cab. We were first introduced to it several years ago at Press in St Helena, and it's become one of our favorite special occasion wines. Very consistent over the vintages, also.
Napa has altered the Bordeaux formula in creating great wines, but it is getting more and more like Bordeaux - a large number of labels making a number of styles of wine. Bordeaux has the French Appellation rules to follow, but Napa can be more free-wheeling. Also, the corporatization of Napa has had an effect with many of the celebrated labels being bought out and turned over to consultants seeking greater uniformity, and by big money coming in and creating new labels with the sole intent of becoming a "Napa Cult Wine."
Despite these creeping influences, there are great cabernets of many types being produced there. There is a lot to enjoy at every price point.
Another region where cabernet is emerging is Paso Robles, where the climate is warming up and allowing better big reds to be produced - especially east of the 101 Freeway where the Pacific Ocean influences are not as great.
http://jimlockardonwine.com/
Despite these creeping influences, there are great cabernets of many types being produced there. There is a lot to enjoy at every price point.
Another region where cabernet is emerging is Paso Robles, where the climate is warming up and allowing better big reds to be produced - especially east of the 101 Freeway where the Pacific Ocean influences are not as great.
http://jimlockardonwine.com/
Clos du Val cabernet is generally under $25 I believe. Their winery is in Napa and makes good wines too.
Readers should be aware that some cabs are actually not ready to drink unless you cellar them for a while, probably because of oak barrels the wine was in before bottling. This may be a French traditional style not universal to Napa, I don't know.
I always liked Rodney Strong and Buena Vista.
For bubbly it's Roederer Estate Brut oh boy.
Readers should be aware that some cabs are actually not ready to drink unless you cellar them for a while, probably because of oak barrels the wine was in before bottling. This may be a French traditional style not universal to Napa, I don't know.
I always liked Rodney Strong and Buena Vista.
For bubbly it's Roederer Estate Brut oh boy.
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Their tasting room has gone from low key and folksy to middlebrow artsy, which is mildly irritating, but their wine continues to be some of the best we have ever tasted.